IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  Wk'jT  MAIN  STRICT 

webs:eic  N.y  u>8o 

(716)  872- .41 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommag^e 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicul6e 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


□    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

□    Bouni 
Relid 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
avec  d'autres  documents 


D 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

Lareliure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  dune  restauration  apparaissont  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl^mentaires; 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  dt6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mithode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommag^es 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaur§es  et/ou  pellicul6es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxei 
Pages  d^color^es,  tachet6es  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materic 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


I  I  Pages  damaged/ 

I  I  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

I  T  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I  I  Pages  detached/ 

fyj  Showthrough/ 

I  I  Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I  I  Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I  I  Only  edition  available/ 


Q' 


Pages  wholly  or  pertially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  peluro 
etc.,  ont  6t§  filmdes  d  nouveau  de  facon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film^  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


V 


12X 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  the  Public 
Archives  of  Canada 

Vt^  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
t:  f  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filired 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate,  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

IVIaps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

La  bibliothdque  des  Archives 
publiques  du  Canada 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  netteti  de  I'exempiaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exempiaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimde  sont  filmds  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exempiaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
filmds  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  filmd  A  partir 
de  I'angle  sup6rieur  geuche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mdthode. 


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NEW-YORK:  ' 

PUBLISHBO    BT    A.  T.   GOODRICH, 

il«tor  HousCf  No,  2  Barclay-ttreet, 


D.  Faiulww,  Prlutwr. 


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Entered  according  to  Aet  of  Congrest,  in  the  7«<|r  1839, 
bj  A.  T.  GooORioB,  in  the  Clerk'i  office  of  the  District  Court 
of  the  Southern  District  of  New-York. 


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TABLE    OF   CONTENTS, 


/■'',:yii  :••:■■':.:) 


>v  -^ 


AND 


INDEX    OF    ROUTES   AND   PLACES. 


Budson  Rivtr,  3  to  42.  Forts  Lee  and  Washington,  9.  Palisades^  10. 
Yonkers,  11.  Tappan,Nyack,  Erie  Rail-road,  W.Irvinfr,  13.  Sing> 
sing,  Croton  River,  14.  Vredidecker  Hook  and  Mountain  Lake,  Ha- 
verstraw  Bay,  15.  Steny  Point  and  Liglit  House,  Ver{rianck's  Point,  18. 
Dunderberg  Mountain,  Fort  Clinton^  Entrance  of  the  Highlands,  16 
ttf  17.  Anthony's  Nose,  18.  Buttermilk  Falls  and  Sugar  Loaf  Hill,  19. 
Fort  Putnam,  20.    West  Point,  21.    Scenery,  Cold  Spring,  22.    Foan- 

'  dry,  23.  Bull,  Break  Neck,  and  Butter  Hill,  23,  24.  PoUopell  Island, 
Cornwall,  Canterbury,  New  Windsor,  25>  Newburgh,  26.  Low  Point* 
Hamburgh,  Hampton,  Jew's  Creek,  Barn^at,  27.  Poughkeopeie,  88. 
Hyde  Park,  29.    Crum  Elbow,  Esopus,  Walkiil  River,  Rondout  Kill, 

!  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal,  Eddy  ville,  30.  Kingston,  Rhinebeck,  31 . 
Red  Hook,  Glasgow,  Esopns  Creek,  Saugerties,32.  Livingston  Manor, 
Bristol,  33.  Catskill,  Pine  Orchard,  Ascent  to  Mountain  House,  the 
Falls,  Lakes,  Clove  Road  scenery,  &c.  34  to  39.  Mount  Merino,  Hud> 
ion,  Athens,  40,    Kinderhook  to  Albany,  42.    Schenectady,  46. 

Utiea  and  Sehewectadf  Ruil-road,  and  Scentry  of  ih»  Mohatek  Rivtr, 

:    47  to  52.  Amsterdam,  47.  Cauf^hnawaga,  Fonda,  None,  Palatine  Bridge, 

48.   East  Canada  Creek,  Fort  Plain,  Fall  Hill,  Little  Falje,  49  to  50. 

Long  Level,  Gulf  Bridge,  German  Flats,  Herkimer,  51.   Utica,  Celerity 

of  traveling,  52.  Salmoa  River  Falls,  Trenton  Falls,  53  to  56. 

Stage-rouU$  from  Utica,  south  and  west,  56  to  69,  and  85  to  123.  Utica 
to  Buffalo,  56.  New  Hartford,  57.  Clinton,  Oneida  Castle,  Cazenovia, 
r:  &c.  58.  Manlius,  Onondaga,  59.  Marcellus,  Skaneateles,  60.  Auburn 
'  and  State  Prison,  61.  Aurelius,  Ithaca,  62.  Seneca  Falls,  63.  Wa- 
"  terloo,  Geneva,  64.  Canandaigua,  65.  Rochester,  66.  Tonnawanta 
<  Rail-road,  66.   Bloomfield,  Lima,  Avons,  67.   Caledonia,  Le  Roy,  Ba- 


»T 


/ 


CONTENTS. 


tavia,68.  Buffalo,  69  to  72.  Grand  Island,  Whitehaven,  73..  Black  Rock 
to  Niagara,  74.    Niagara  Falls,  74  to  83. 

Erie  Canal,  Albany  to  Lake  Erie,  82  to  118.  West  Troy,  Uuited  State» 
Arsenal,  87.  Cahoes  Falls,  Aqueducts,  Wat  HoixGap,  88.  Union  Col- 
lege, 89.  Schenectady,  90.  Schoharie  Creek,  91.  Canajoharie,  92.. 
Rail-road,  Otsquaga,  Minden,  93.  Little  Falls,  94  to  96.  Walfrift,  Frank- 
fort, Long  Level,  94.  Utica  and  Vicinity,  97  to  98.  Oneida  Lake,  98. 
Canal,  Whitestown,  99.  Sauquoit  Creek,  Rome,  Verona,  Sulphur 
Springs,  100.  Canastota,  Ciiitteningo,  101.  Kirkville,  Orville,  Lodi^ 
Syracuse,  101  to  105.  Bclli6ie,  Oti»co  Creek,  Amber,  Jordan,  Cros* 
Lake,  Elbridge,  106.  Weed's  Basin,  Port  Byron,  Owusco  Creek,  Mon-* 
tezunia,  Cayuga  Outlet,  Clyde,  107.  Lock  Berlin,  Outlet  of  Canandai* 
gua  Lake,  Clyde  River,  Mud  Creek.  Lyons,  108.  Alloway,  Palmyra,, 
Fullam's  Basin,  Great  Embankment,  Irondequoit,  Pittsford,  Geaessee 
Long  Level,  109.  Rochester,  110.  Falls  of  the  Genessee,  111.  Hoi- 
ley  Embanknmnt,  Ridge-road,  King's,  Webber's,.  Kilborn's,  and  Spen** 
cer's  Basin^  Parma,  Brockway,  Sandy  Creek,  North  Murriy,  Scioy 
Smith  and  Gaines'  Basin  and  Village,  112.  Otter  Creek,  Oak  Orchard 
and  Aqueduct,  Albion,  113.  Medina,  Eagle  Harbor,  Barre,  Knowles- 
ville,  Shelby's  and  Servos'  Basin,  Middleport,  Gosport,  Johnson's 
v^j.  Creek  and  Embankment,  Eighteen  Mile  Creek  and  Embankment, 
Royalton,  Grand  Ravine  and  Reservoir,  114.  Lockport  and  Envi-' 
rons,  115  to  IIG.  Deep  cutting,  Tonnawanta  Creek,  Pendleton,  Elli- 
eott's  Creek,  Black  Rock  Harbor  and  Mole,  117.  Canal  Table,  119  to* 
123^.    Expenses,  &c. 

Northern  Route  from  Albany  to  the  Springs,  Lakes  George  and  Cham>- 
plain,  Montreal  and  Quebec,  123  to  202.    Troy,  124.    Lansingburgh, 
126.    Waterford,  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Rail-road,  127.    Ballstonf 
Springs,  and  small  Lakes,  128.    Saratoga  Springs  and  Lake,  129  to  133. 
,    Road  to  Sundy  Hill,  Glenn's  Falls,  133*.    Sacondaga,  Lake  Pleasant,. 
^  Long  Lakes,  134,    Stillwater,  Benius'  Heights,  135.    Schuylerviller 
•  Battenkill  and  Falls,  Fort  Miller,  Fort  Edward,  Great  Dam,  Baker's 
;  Falls,  136.    Sandy  Hill,  Glenn's  Falls,  137.    Jessup's  and   Hadley's 
■■  Falls,  138.   Road  to  Lake  George,  139.    Excursion  on  the  Lake,  and 
events  of  the  French  and  other  wars,  139  to  148.    Ticonderoga,  149, 
Monnt  Independence,  J  50.  Sandy  Hill  to  Whitehall,  151  to  152.  White- 
hall and  Vicinity,  152  to  154. 

Excursion  on  Lake  Champlain  and  the  St.  Latorenee  to  Montreal  and 

Quebec,  154  to  202.  Outlet  of  Lake  George,  Ticonderoga,  155.  Crowu 

J?'  Point,  156.    Visit  to  the  Alps  of  New-York,  and  sources  of  the  Hudson 

lard  Au  Sable,  157  to  164,  Port  Henry,  157.  East  and  West  Bfbriah,^  158 


.«' 


It 


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M^iPPDPiPiMP 


CONTKNTS.  % 

Lake  SaBford,  Labradorite,  158.  Source  of  the  Hudson,  160.  Higk 
Peak,  Great  Trap  Dyke,  161.  Mount  M'lntyrc,  162.  Notcli,  Lake 
Henderson,  Bald  Peak,  163.  Cedar  Point,  Westport,  Basin  Harbor, 
164.  Elizabeth,  Giant  of  the  Valley,  Rover's  Hill,  Valley  Forge,  En- 
sex,  Split  Rock,  Whit  ^ce  Mountain,  165.  Burlington,  Pert  Kent, 
Port  Douglas,  Koeseville,  166.  Clintonvillo,  Sweden,  Birmingham, 
Adgate's  Falls,  167.  Peru,  Battle  on  Lake  Champlain,  16d  to  16ik 
Plattsburgh,  North  and  South  Hero  Islands,  169.  Chazy,  Champlain, 
Perrysville,  Corbeau,  Rouse's  Point,  Wind  Mill  Point,  Odletowu, 
Isle  aux  Noix  and  Fort,  River  Sorel,  170.  St.  John's,  Chaniblee  to 
Longueil,  171.  Montreal  and  vicinity,  173  to  176.  On  the  St.  Law- 
rence, 176  to  179.    Quebec  and  environs,  ISO  to  202. 


Excurtion  in  New  England  up  the  falley  of  the  Connecticut  River  to '  he 
White  Mountains,  202  to  244.  New  Haven,  Yale  College,  204  to  209. 
Rail-road  to  Hartford,  210  to  214.  Meriden,  212.  Berlin,  Newington, 
213.  Hartford  and  vicinity,  214  to  216.  East  Hartford,  217.  Wiad- 
sor,  219.  East  Windsor,  220.  Thoropsonville,  Shakers,  Suffleld,  221. 
West  Springfield,  223.  South  Hadley,  224.  Northampton  and  vici- 
nity, 225  to  228.  Hatfield,  Whateley,  Amherst,  229.  Deerfield,  230. 
Greenfield,  Bernardston,  Gill  Falls,  231.    Northfield,  Hinsdale,  Bat- 

,  tie,  &c.'232.  Chesterfield,  Westmoreland,  Walpolc,  Bellow's  Falls  and 
Farm,  233.  Brattleborough,  234.  Charlestown,  Ox  Bow,  Wethersfield, 
Ascutney,  Windsor,  235.  Waterqueechee,  236.  Green  Mountains, 
Vermont,  237.  Plainfield,  Lebanon,  Dartmouth  College,  Haverhillf 
Lyme,  Orford,  Piermont,  238.  Bath,  Ammanoosuck  River,  2.39.  Fran- 
conia,  Lancaster,  240.  Bethlehem,  Notch  of  White  Mountains,  241 
to  244.  Conway,  Fry  burgh,  Hiram,  Gorham,  Falmouth,  Portland,  244» 
Boston  and  »nvirons,2i5to2Q\.  Middlesex  Canal,  251.  South  and  East 
Boston,  257.  Cemetery  at  Mount  Auburn,  258.  Cambridge,  Port,  East 
Cambridge,  Harvard  College,  259.    Charleston  and  environs.  Bunker 

I  Hill,  Navy  Yard,  &c.  259  to  261.  Excursion  to  Nahant,  261  to  263. 
Salem,  Marblehead,  Beverly,  263  to  264.  Lynn,  Andover  and  Haver" 
hill  Rail-road,  264.    Merrimac  River,  265.     ^'     f-,';  .  ■;   , '.  '-  '- f 

Boston  to  Lowell,  by  Rail-road,  265  to  267.  Nashua,  Concord,  Centre 
Harbor,  207.    Lake  Winnipisiogee,  268. 

Boston  to  Worcester,  by  Rail-road,  271  to  274.  Newton,  Natick,  Fram-ng- 
ham,  Southboro',  272.  Hopkington,  Mine  Spring,  Grafton,  Leicester, 
Spencer,  BrookfielJ,Western,  Palmer,  Springfield,  273.  West  Spring- 
field, Westfield,  Russell,  Blanford,  Becket,  Dalton,  Pittsfield,  West 
Stockbridge,  Hudson,  274.       ,  ,       .v 


VI 


CORTCNTt. 


Eastern  Coa$t-rouU  from  BoHon,  Andover,  974.    Bradford,  NaverhHT^ 
Cuials  on  Merrimack,  Exeter,  276.   Rawley,  Newbiiryport,  977.   Sa- 
lisbury, Amosbury,  Portsmoutit,  278.    Kittery,  Yoric,  Well»,  Kenne- 
bunlK,  279.    Saco,  Pepperelborougli,  Biddeford,  Portland,  380.    Au- 
gusta, 281.   Tliotnaston,  Castine,  Belfast,  Bangor,  283. 

Mountaitu  and  Lakes  in  New  Hampsliire  and  Maine,  283  to  285. 

Ifew  rjute  to  Quebec,  285  to  287.    St.  John's,  New  Brunswick,  and  ac«- 
nery,  288to290. 

Scentry  and  Excurnonaromtd  the  Bay  ofFundy,  SM  to  302. 

Banishment  of  the  Acadians,  303  to  305. 

Tides  in  B^y  ofFundy,  305  to  307.     Halifax  and  environs,  307  to  309.    / 

Ride  along  shore— ffete-Tork  to  Newport  and  Cape  Cod,  309  to  35f. 

New-York  to  Harlem,  309  to  aiO.  West  Chester,  East  Chester,  New 
Rochelle,  Mamaronock,  Rye,  Saw  Pitts,  Greenwich,  Horse  Neck,  311. 
Stamford,  Darien,  312.  Norwalk,  313.  Souihport,  Fairfield,  314. 
Greenfield,  315.  Black  Rock,  Bridgeport,  Rail-road  to  New  Milford,. 
316.  Stratford,  Milford,  317.  Orange,  West  Haven,  319.  East  Haven, 
320.  Branford,  Guilford,  331.  Sachem's  Head,  Great  Plains,  Madi- 
son, 322.  Killingworth,  Westbrook,  Saybrook,  323.  (Route  up  the 
river  to  Middletown  and  Hartford,  335  to  336.)  Lyme,  Waterford, 
New  London  and  vicinify  337  to  338.  Portersville,  Lowe,  Mystic,  329. 
Slonington  and  Battle,  WiO  to  331.  Paucatuck  River,  Narragansett 
Indians  and  Battle,  333  to  333.  Bay,  Newport  and  environs,  333  to 
3.37.  Bishop  Berkley,  Providence,  338.  Rail-road  to  Boston,  339. 
Attleborough,  Rev.  A.  Weld,  340.  Foxborough,  Wrentham,  Canton, 
Cohasset.  341.  Milton,  Dedbam,  Quincy,  Dorchester,  Roxbury,  Taun- 
ton, Bridgtiwater,  &c.  343.  Raynham,  Fall  River,  344.  Dighton, 
Westport,  Dartmouth,  New  Bedford,  Fairhaven,  345.  Sandwich^  346. 
Barnstable,  Brewster,  Chatham,  Dennis,  Falmouth,  Yarmouth,  Plea- 
sant Bay,  347.  Orleans,  Eastham,  Wellfleet,  Traro,  Provincetown, 
Race  Point,  348  to  349;  back  to  Plymouth, 350 ;  thence  to  Boston,  351. 


1^:%.;: 


Sotttliern   Routes* 


n-.. 


New-York  to  Philadelphia,  353  to  358.  1st  route  by  steam-boat  and  rail- 
road, via  Amboy  and  Bordentown.  3d  do.  by  rail-road  from  city  to 
eity,  via  Powles  Hook,  Newark,  Elizabethtowo,  New  Brunswick^ 
Prinveton^  and  Trenton. 


.>'v;^... :,-- 


1  i'  It 


CONTENTt. 


Vii 


Philadelphia  and  invirons,  358  to  364. 

Rail-road,  Philadelphia  to  Reading,  and  thence  to  the  Coal  Minee  in 
Schuylkill  Couuty. 


..>^c;.■,■'^: 


■'  ";■'.  ( 


Schuylkill  Navigation  and  Canal,  367.  , ..  >  ,  v    , ,  /  ■  .     «  v*i  v.^ 

Rail-road,  Philadelphia  to  Ohamberthurgh,  367  to  368. 

Penneylvania  Rail-road  and  Canal,  Philadelphia  to  Pitttburyh,  on  the 
Ohio  River,  360  to  378.  • .  ,'         ,^ 

T\i9  Philadelphia  and  Columbia  RaiUroad,370  to  374,  in  the  Valley  of 
Cheater,  Delaware,  and  Montgomery,  to  Lancaster  and  Columbia.  ■■. 

Canal  along  the  Susquehannah,  374  to  376,  passing  Marietta, Bainbridge, 
Falmouth,  Middletown,  Swatara  Creek,  the  Union  Canal,  374.  Har- 
risburgh,  375.  Duncan's  Island,  376.  Juniata  River,  Newport,  Lower 
Aqueduct,  Thompsontown,  Mexico,  Mifflintown,  Lewistown,  Waynes- 
burgh  Aqueduct,  Hamiltonville,  Aughweek  Falls,  Hnntingtun,  Peters- 
burg, Alexandria,  Williamsburg,  Franktown,  Hallidaysburg,  o76. 

Alleghany  Portage  Rail-road,  377  to  378. 

Pennsylvania  Canal,  Western  division,  378 ;  following  the  Kiskimine- 
tas,  Conemaugh,  and  Alleghany,  via  Johnstown,  Laurel  Hill,  Fairfield, 
Lockport,  Chesnut  Hill,  Blairsville,  Saltzburg,  Salt  Works,  Warren- 
town,  Leechburg,  Aqueduct  over  the  Alleghany,  Freeport,  Logan's 
Ferry,  Pine  Creek,  Aqueduct,  Pittsburgh,  378. 

Table  of  Distances  and  Elevations  on  thti  aboyotoutea,  310.        '' 

Routes  from  Pittsburgh  down  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  to  New  Orleans, 
with  the  distances  and  prices,  380. 

Route  from  St.  Louis  up  the  Mississippi  to  St.  Anthony^s  Falls,  381. 

Return  route,  Pittsburgh  to  Philadelphia,  382  to  384.     . . 

Schuylkill  Coal  Region,  385  to  395. 

Easton,  Mauch  Chunk  and  Lehigh,  Bethlehem,  Nazareth,  389  to  393. 

Valley  of  Wyoming  and  Lackawanna,  Carbondale,  Laekawaxen  and 
Delaware  Cantd,  393to  395. 

Morris  Canal,  395  to  396.    Great  Falls  in  Genessee,  396  to  397.       — 

Routes  from  Philadelphia  to  Baltimore,  398  to  402,  via  New  Castle,  and 
rail-road  and  steam-boat.  *^'   ^  •^^ 


mmm 


m 


vm 


CONTENTS. 


If 


I'- 
ll '  . 


Chesapeake  and  Delaware  Canal,  399.    Breakwater,  400.  Vf^;; 

Philadelphia^  Wilminrton,  and  Havre  de  Grace  Rail-road,  4C1  to  403. 
Steam-boat  route,  Baltimore  to  Norfolk.  Do.  do.  Washington  to  do.  403. 
Baltimore  and  environs,  403  to  406.        "'     •  •  "^     « «■  i^"*l.a^' 

Rail-road  from  Baltimore  to  York,  iOl.  • '  S'*:'!^  ^ :. 

Do.      do.         do.        t^  JVashinffton,  i08. 

Washington  and  environs,  408  to  410.  *  .  ^     rSii      ;.;  ,^   .«..  t' 

Rail-road,  Baltimore  to  Annapolis  410  to  411 .  ,;,   , '  . ,    ,    /^    ■-,_  '.f,    ; 

Vicinity  of  Baltimore,  Falls,  Water-powek-,&c.  412  to  413.    ■; 

Grand  Route,  Baltimore  to  Harper^s  Ferry  and  Winchester,  Virginia, 
and  through  the  State  to  the  Sulphur  Springs  and  the  mountain  re- 
gions o(  the  Carolinas,  Tennessee,  and  Georgia,  413  to  423. 

Rail-road,  Baltimore  to  Frederick,  and  Macadamized  road  to  Cumber- 
land, and  the  Grand  National  Road  to  Wheeling  on  the  Ohio  River, 
422  to  429. 

Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal,  429. 

Main  Southern  Rail-road  route  from  Baltimore  or  Washington,  through 
Virginia  and  the  Carolinas,  Georgia,  and  Alabama,  to  Montgomery, 
Pensacola,  Mobile,  and  New  Orleans,  429  to  454.  Time  required  and 
expenses,  430.  Comparison  of  routes,  Louisa,  &c.  Central  route  to 
the  Virginia  Springs,  431.  Fredericksburgh,  Richmond,  432.  South- 
ern route  to  the  Virginia  Springs,  433.    Lynchburg,  434. 

Richmond  to  Petersburgh  and  the  Roanoke,  near  Weldon  and  Halifax, 
435.  Across  North  Carolina  to  Wilmington,  436.  To  Charleston,  437. 
Routes,  Rail-road  from  Charleston  to  Cincinnati,  446  to  448. 

Augusta  and  Hamburgh,  449  to  450.     Routes  and  Springs  ic  (reorgia. 

Hitoasse  Rail-road,  and  grand  mountain  thoroughfare,  Tennessee,  450 
to  451. 

Rail-road  from  Savannah  to  Macon,  451  to  452.    Savannah. 

Dismal  Swamp,  Virginia  and  North  Carolina,  439  to 443.  ,» 

Upper  Rail-road  in  North  Carolina,  443  to  444.    Raleigh,  Fayetteville. 
Old  stage-route  from  Norfolk  to  Charleston,  441  to  446,  ^> 

Columbia,  South  Carolina,  445.  ■       ',       t;    ri    ,  •       \ 

Rail-roads  in  Alabama,  453,  and  ia  Georgia,  466  to  468     Columiut 
Macon.  \\ 


;/ 


mmmmmm 


i 


CONTENTS. 


h 


tfea  Orleans,  455.    Routes  from  457  to  458. 

JlfofrtVe,  458  to  459.    Blakely  to  Pensacola,  460. 

Pensacola,  460  to  iQ2.    Routes  from,  463.      ~ '■- 

Coosa  and  Pleasant  Valleys,  Alabama,  463.    Montgomery,  464. 

Route  by  steam-boal  down  the  Alabama  to  Mobile,  464  to  465. 

Land  route,  Montgomery  to  Augusta,  466  to  470.  Columbus,  Cbattaboo>* 
cbe,  467.    Thomaston,  469.    Pine  Mountains,  Miller's  Bend,  Forsythe.' 

Milledgeville,  470.    Indian  Springs. 

Scenery  and  Natural  Curiosities  in  Virginia,  theCarolinas,  Georgia,  and 
East  Tennessee,  471  to  488.  Cumberland  and  Look-out  Mountain,  472; 
Nicojack  Cave,  473.  PiJot  and  Sawrata  Mountain,  474  to  475.  Tory 
House,  476.  Pinnacles  of  the  Dan,  Table,  Grandfather,  Grandmother^ 
Roan,  and  Black  Mountains,  Heights,  &c.  476  to  478.  Saluda  Mountain^ 
478.  Scenery  of  tlie  French  Broad  River,  479.  Painted  Rock,  Cur- 
rohee  Mount,  Clarkesville,  Naucoochy  Valley,  Coweta  Falls,  481. 

Great  Stone  or  Rock  Mountain  in  De  Kalb  County,  Georgia,  481  to  483« 
Routes,  Rock  Bridge. 

Tockoa  and  Tallulak  Falls,  Georgia,  483,  to  485.  Caribee  Mount,  Che- 
rokee country,  4S6  to  488. 

New  Rail-road  up  the  Housatonick  from  Bridgeport  to  New  Milford  and 
West  Stockbridgt. 

Mineralogical  Tour,  New  Haven  to  Litchfield,  Woodbury,  &c.  489  ta 
499.    Rail-road,  Stockbridge  to  Hudson,  500. 

Rail-road,  Norwich  to  Worctster,  500  to  506.  Yantic  Falls,  Norwich, 
Jewett*8  City,  Packersvilie,  Plainficld,  Brooklyn,  Killingly,  Factories^ 
Pleasant  Valley,  Dayville,  Danieli^onville,  Mashapaiig  Lake,  504.  Ma- 
shentuck  Hill,  Pomfrelville,  Thompson,  Montville,  New  Boston,  Lei- 
cester,  Worcester,  506. 


[The  matter  for  a  volume  of  this  size,  devoted  to  the  Western  Statofy> 
is  in  forwardness.] 


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The  sources  of  ibis  river  m'<^  }>i  44*-''  '^-  V%lij»«l#-..  ifi  ifc  *?- 

t^- of  lakes  in  Ess^x  i.ui  H^:*??i^«  :!''MJ*'»>t^^  rM;  H<i  m 

|it  iijoutrtainon.s  and  tmti.*.i|Hekfe^^  -H^vp^.  Sttlwsi^r*  ir^ke 

^■''^l^rimpla^n,  tnt  Mohaw*.;  ili*'<'i,  Si.  I*ivV/rence  Rjvor,  and 

^0^  Ontario.    The  main,  or  north  brn^peh,  rlse.s  30  miles 

f,vH|^.  fromCrov/n  Poiiu;  the  Sacon'ia-tifa,  or  %v(?si  branch, 

'  -.^^^||0  10  If?  miles  W.  oT  I.ak^"'  Georgy,  ami  b<uli  briuiclie:^ 

•*"i^fe-if«s»  the  enstera  side  of  Saratoga  C0iji;iv.  iri  the  town 

?;i|^i^'.'i?*»y,  near  the  celebiuted  falls  of  inat  name.    Prota 

'■■•■'  ■ ::,  ihe  coM.rse  is  southerly  tor  a  few  miles,  and  liieu 

..■.  **?  Glenn's  Falls,  beyond  which  it  turny  soi-th,  and 

W^^^  '  '^'^•^'"■s<^^  varying  h\\<  'iitle  from  IV.  to  S.  ncAily  all 

t>T^^t- '"**«?«  to  the  ocean,  from  which  circumstpnoe  it  de- 

■     Ji^rial,  but  incorrect  appellation  of  ihe  Notili 

.i:"':5:^jE'* lints  of  view,  it  may  be  oonsidered  one  of  \h.e 
'■'^^*^.'  'Uveams  in  the  world  for  its  extent,  end  onh , 

'■^f^yi    ..>■  J*i*0T  in  usefulnesfj  Ui  the  Ohio  and  Misf^isstippi 
'  ^M^-  Jpi''^"'%:^t*ui  So  lisem  ib*  ^r<^*m'-k.ai  liavi^auon,  M'i'¥ 


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THE 


NORTH  AMERICAN  TOURIST. 


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The  Hudson  River. 


The  sources  of  this  river  are  in  44°  N.  latitude,  in  a  se- 
ries of  lakes  in  Essex  and  Hamilton  counties,  that  lie  in 
the  mountainous  and  unfrequented  region  between  Lake 
Champlain,  the  Mohawk  River,  St.  Lawrence  River,  and 
Lake  Ontario.  The  main,  or  north  branch,  rises  30  miles 
N.  W.  from  Crown  Point;  the  Sacondaga,  or  west  branch, 
rises  30  to  40  miles  W.  of  Lake  George,  and  both  branches 
unite  on  the  eastern  side  of  Saratoga  county,  in  the  town 
of  Hadley,  near  the  celebrated  falls  of  that  name.  From 
thence,  the  course  is  southerly  for  a  few  miles,  and  then 
east,  to  Glenn's  Falls,  beyond  which  it  turns  south,  and 
pursues  a  course  varying  but  little  from  N.  to  S.  nearly  all 
the  distance  to  the  ocean,  from  which  circumstance  it  de- 
rives its  usual,  but  incorrect  appellation  of  the  North 
River. 

In  many  points  of  view,  it  may  be  considered  one  of  the 
most  important  streams  in  the  world  for  its  extent,  and  only, 
if  at  all,  inferior  in  usefulness  to  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi 
Rivers,  but  superior  to  them  for  steam-boat  navigation,  viz 
iQ  the  most  remarkable  circumstance,  and  exclusively  cha 


mmmm 


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4  ;     Httdi»n  River* 

racteristic  of  the  Hudson  River  from  every  other  stream  in 
this  country — its  penetrating  through  the  chain  of  high- 
lands, and  being  affected  by  the  tides  as  far  as  Troy,  160 
miles  north,  thus  carrying  the  oceanic  influence  far  into 
the  interior,  and  yielding  the  greatest  facilities  to  com- 
merce. 

The  depth  of  water  is  sufficient  for  ship  navigation  as 
far  as  Hudson ;  and  beyond  that,  for  sloops  and  steam- 
boats to  Albany  and  Troy.  It  is  closed  by  ice  from  the 
lOth  or  20th  of  December  to  about  the  10th  of  March,  with 
occasional  exceptions ;  but  the  harbor  and  bay  of  New- York 
are  always  open,  so  that  vessels  can  enter  and  depart  at  any 
period  of  the  winter,  while  the  harbors  of  Boston,  Phila- 
delphia, and  Baltimore,  are  entirely  closed  for  weeks.  This 
is  one  of  the  principal  causes  of  the  preference  givea  to 
New- York,  as  a  sea-p'^rt,  beyond  any  other  on  this  coast, 
except  Newport.  Ship,  with  a  fair  wind  and  tide,  can  get 
to  sea  in  one  hour  and  thirty  minutes  after  leaving  the 
wharf;  the  distance  from  the  city  by  ship  channel  to  Sandy 
Hook  light-house  being  only  18  miles. 

The  width  of  the  river  for  25  miles  N.  from  New- York, 
is  about  one  mile,  bounded  on  the  west  by  precipices  of  trap 
or  green  ston  ,  from  200,  and  rising  gradually  to  500  feet  in 
height.  Beyond  these,  there  is  an  expansion  of  the  river  to 
the  width  of  4  miles,  called  Tappan  and  Haverstraw  bays, 
with  the  mountains  on  the  western  shore  rising  boldly  to 
700  feet  in  height. 

The  traveler  then  enters  into  the  romantic  region  of  the 
highlands,  where  the  river  is  contracted  into  narrower 
limits,  but  is  of  greater  depth,  and  the  mountains  rise  on 
both  sides  with  abruptness  from  nine  to  sixteen  hundred 
feet  in  height.  At  West  Point,  the  river  turns  suddenly,  at 
right  angles,  to  its  previous  course,  and  soon  displays  an 
opening  between  the  mountains  on  the  north,  beyond 
which  the  country  subsides  into  a  fertile,  but  hilly  region, 
which  continues  for  a  hundred  miles,  with  a  noble  view  of 
the  Catskill,  or  spur  of  the  Allegany  Mountains,  at  ^hiP  dis- 
tance of  8  or  10  miles.  ^.^wi.  * 

Such  are  the  attractions  possessed  by  this  noble  river,  that 
it  annually  allures  thousands  of  strangers ;  and  this,  in  con- 
nection with  the  canal  navigation,  the  summer  visiters  to 
the*  Springs,  the  Lakes,  and  to  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  causes 
the  synn  of  one  or  more  millions  of  dollars  to  be  expended 


"•"^PWP" 


Hud*m*s  Voyagei,  Sfc:  6 

{"ft  this  slate  every  year,  and  fornii  a  very  considerable  item 
in  the  prosperity  and  resources  of  the  city  and  country. 

The  Hudson  River,  in  connection  with  Lake  Champlain, 
has  always  been  the  great  highway  to  Canada,  and  the  path 
or  channel  of  military  enterprise. 

There  are  15  to  20  steam-boats,  of  various  sizes,  plying 
from  New- York  to  Albany,  and  other  places  on  the  river ; 
their  passage  to  Albany  is  now  effected  in  10  to  12  hours  ! 

There  are  several  falls  on  the  river,  viz. — Baker's  Falls, 
Glenn's  Palls,  Hadley  Palls,  and  others  of  less  note.  The 
sources  of  the  river  nave  never  been  fully  surveyed ;  but 
the  granitic  region  thereabouts  undoubtedlv  contains  many 
fine  landscapes  and  scenes  that  will  soon  be  better  known. 
Its  entire  length  may  be  estimated  at  300  miles.  Its  only 
tributary  stream  of  any  magnitude  is  the  Mohawk  River. 
that  falls  in  from  the  west,  at  Waterford,  which  rises  120 
miles  distant,  in  the  county  of  Oneida.  On  this  are  the 
Cohoes  Palls,  and  the  Little  Falls ;  and  on  West  Canada 
Creek,  emptying  into  the  Mohawk,  are  the  celebrated  Tren- 
ton Palls,  that  deservedly  rank  high  in  public  estimation. 

As  a  navigable  arm  of  the  sea,  land  the  chief  cause  of  the 
prosperity  of  this  great  metropolis,  the  Hudson  River  can- 
not be  too  highly  estimated ;  and  when  viewed  as  the  con- 
necting means  of  our  great  system  of  inland  navigation, 
and  with  the  Lakes,  from  Buffalo  to  Detroit,  Michilimacki- 
nac,  Green  Bay,  Chicago,  and  we  soon  may  be  enabled  to 
say,  through  the  Illinois  River  to  St.  Louis  and  New-Or- 
leans, and  also  by  a  canal  round  the  Sault  St.  Mary  with 
the  distant  shores  of  Lake  Superior,  we  can  hardly  appre- 
ciate the  extent  of  inland  trade  that  may,  at  no  distant  day, 
visit  this  commercial  metropolis  of  the  United  States. 


.'. . 


t- 


J    5 


Henry  Hudson. 


m  f\d' 


wir 


Little  is  known  of  the  eventful  life  of  the  celebrated  na- 
vigator Henry  Hudson,  except  that  he  was  an  Englishman, 
born  in  1569,  of  good  education,  and  an  experienced  and 
bold  seaman.  He  early  entered  into  a  maritime  life,  abd 
soon  attained  a  distinguished  rank  in  his  {jrofession.  He 
resided  in  London,  and  had  a  family,  and  his  only  son,  a 

■■'■•■   ^    '     ■    V-    I*      :  ■     ■ 


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yonth  of  great  promisei  shared  with  him  in  all  his  perils. 
His  first  voyage  of  discovery  was  in  1607,  when  he  sailed 
from  Gravesend  to  the  coast  of  Greenland,  and  made  im- 
portant discoveries,  and  returned  in  safely.  The  next  year 
ne  made  a  voyage  to  the  northern  regions.  Both  ol  the 
foregoing  voyages  were  made  by  him  in  the  employment 
of  a  company  of  merchants  at  London;  but  they  not  wish- 
ing his  services  any  longer,  Hudson  went  to  Holland,  and 
entered  into  the  service  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Company, 
who  provided  him  with  a  small  ship  called  the  Half  Moon, 
and  a  crew  of  20  men.  He  left  Amsterdam  on  the  4th  of 
April,  1609,  and  after  sailing  along  the  coast  of  America, 
and  touching  in  different  places,  he  entered  the  bay  inside 
of  Sandy  Hook,  on  the  3d  of  September,  and  devoted  one 
month  to  the  exploring  of  the  coast  in  the  vicinity,  and  in 
ascending  the  river  that  bears  his  name.  His  narrative  is 
full  of  interest,  and  his  voyage  and  adventures  up  the  river, 
and  his  intercourse  with  the  natives,  are  told  in  a  faithful 
and  descriptive  manner,  but  our  limits  will  not  admit  of  any 
minute  details.  The  reader  that  is  desirous  of  farther  in- 
formation on  this  subject,  is  referred  to  the  eloquent  descrip- 
tion in  Moulton*s  History  of  this  State,  which  does  full 
justice  to  it. 

The  island  of  Manhattan,  at  that  period,  presented  a 
wild  and  rough  aspect ;  a  thick  forest  covered  those  parts 
of  it  where  vegetation  could  find  support;  its  beach  was 
broken  and  rocky,  and  had  several  inlets ;  the  interior  was 
hilly,  with  occasional  rocks,  swamps,  and  ponds.  All  traces 
of  this  roughness  have  long  since  disappeared  from  the 
southern  part  of  the  island,  where  the  city  is  now  built,  and 
great  inroads  have  been  made  on  all  sides  into  the  waters 
of  the  harbor;  but  to  the  curious,  a  lively  idea  may  still  be 
given  of  what  was  formerly  the  appearance  on  the  city's 
site,  by  examining  the  interior  of  tne  island,  5  or  6  miles 
north,  on  the  middle  road,  or  the  3d  and  8th  avenues,  es- 
pecially the  latter,  and  also  on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson  and 
East  Rivers,  by  which  may  be  discovered  the  immense  la- 
bpr  and  expense  that  have  been  bestowed  by  preceding 
l^enerations,  in  altering  the  natural  appearance  of  this 
island. 

ISudson,  on  his  return,  was  forced  to  put  into  England 
by  his  crew,  of  whom  a  part  were  natives  of  that  country ; 
and  he  subsequently  perished  on  a  voyage  to  the  great  bay 
that  bears  his  name,  by  the  mutin}'  of  some  of  his  sailors. 


Fit 


■S 


»w»"?"iP»'S|/'". 


ir  the 

Jirsl 
.M.; 
ction, 
ir  the 

as  to 
on  on 

river 
twen- 
enter- 

et,  or 
jnsive 
ad  the 
of  St. 
lefew 

street, 
,te  we 
above 
Degins 
ihia,) 
iy  re- 
ore  to 
brated 
fami- 
;  and 
I  front 
ibank- 
;ratui- 
id  en- 
valled 
atle  of 
rymen 
his  in- 

tevens' 
n,  that, 


i 


■i*K»«Ntf»..V  -vip  'T:-^-'  *.r'^' 


..^V-ar..,;., 


^  -.:  ^  -■■*%  \ 


"llf  .■■*1l  . 


e  m 


from 
porta 

forej 

of  a 

ing 

entei 

whoi 

and 

Apr] 

and 

ofS| 

inonj 

ascej 

full 

and 

and 

mini 

forni 

tioni 

justi^ 


ofitjii 
broki 

of  tl^  .M^kItIi^V*?^ 

SOUthtt  '   !  : 

great  i  .vv 

of  the  ;  *iui 

giveA  t  %'«; 

site,  b  if.  mmn^i 

north,  ■}■  ;,-^^.;'--i;0j^ 

pecia)  -^.^Aft^ 

East  ]  '■■■■^^''i. 


■ij^-'f,'  ij 


bor  ai     ■:^^'m 


n-yf- 


an(i 


H 

by  hi; 
and 
that  bl 


y.»iv  ..jT'K'iSr*-'*'**)!?^^ 


«t«H^-^^ffi 


?S^<^ 


i  «•■■ 


\ 


S," 


.:»fc 


v^flPS-vi, 


j^.'^*" 


^'-■:% 


'5*S7- 


Hohoken  and  New-Vark. 


:i^fH^'.i^k-M/t}iS^^ 


Excnrsion  up  the  Hudson  Biver. 

On  leaving  the  city  in  any  of  the  steam-boats  for  the 
north,  the  traveler  for  pleasure  should,  if  on  his  Jlrsl 
trip,  by  all  means  prefer  the  morning  boats,  at  7  A.  M. ; 
for  the  sake  of  enjoying  the  splendid  scenery  in  perfection, 
and  select  on  the  upper  deck  a  suitable  position  near  the 
after  part  qf  the  boat,  and  facing  to  the  north,  so  as  to 
glance  readily  at  objects  that  may  attract  his  attention  on 
either  shore. 

For  twenty-five  miles  after  leaving  New-York  the  river 
is  very  near  one  mile  in  width,  and  then  for  the  next  twen- 
ty expands  to  three  or  four  times  that  width  before  enter- 
ing  the  portals  of  the  Highlands. 

in  passing  by  fifteen  streets  from  Courtlandt-street,  or 
twelve  from  Barclay- street,  we  are  opposite  the  extensive 
steam-engine  shops  of  Kemble  and  Gouverneur,  and  the 
lofty  spire  seen  a  short  distance  in  the  rear  is  that  of  St. 
John's  Church,  that  faces  on  Hudson-square,  one  of  the  few 
that  ornament  the  city. 

The  sixth  street  beyond,  as  we  proceed,  is  Canal-street, 
leading  into  the  heart  of  the  metropolis ;  and  opposite  we 
see,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Hudson  river,  a  mile  above 
Jersey  city  or  Powles  Hook,  (where  the  rail-road  begins 
leading  to  Newark  and  intermediate  cities  to  Philadeljphia,) 
the  village  of  Hoboken,  with  its  green  lawns,  shady  re- 
cesses, and  embowered  walks  leading  along  the  shore  to 
and  beyond  the  seat  of  the  Stevens  family,  of  celebrated 
memory  in  the  history  of  American  steam-boats.  The  fami- 
Iv  mansion  is  seen  on  the  summit  of  the  rocky  knoll ;  and 
the  surrounding  and  embellished  grounds  have  a  bold  front 
of  a  mile  on  the  river,  ?arefully  protected  by  stone  embank- 
ment; the  artificial  and  shaded  winding  walks  are  gratui- 
tously thrown  open  to  the  public  by  the  liberal  and  en- 
lightened proprietor,  in  their  whole  extent  of  unrivalled 
beauty.  Mr.  S.  is  also  the  one  on  whom  the  mantle  of 
Fulton  may  be  said  to  have  fallen,  and  his  countrymen 
have  already  witnessed  and  enjoyed  the  fruits  of  his  in- 
ventive genius. 

In  the  rear  of  the  low  grounds  that  environ  Mr.  Stevens' 
property  on  the  west,  is  the  village  of  West  Hoboken,  that, 


"ft*,.A., ... 


w  '  ■■"— '  "fuia 


8 


NetD'  York  and  Weehatoken, 


■;f 


from  its  elevated  and  prominent  situation  on  the  brow  of  the 
Bergen  ridge,  commands  a  fine  view  of  the  city,  harbor, 
and  surrounding  country*  The  Beacon  Race-Course  is  en 
the  hill  to  the  south  of  the  adjoining  wood.  The  ridge  rises 
rapidly  as  it  extends  to  the  north,  and  sweeps  forward  in  a 
bold  and  graceful  curve  towards  the  Hudson  at  Weehawken, 
"Where  commences  the  remarkable  ridge  of  trap-rock,  the 
Palisades. 

Ten  streets  or  blocks  north  of  Canal-street,  we  pass  a 
massive-looking  building  with  a  dome  or  observatory,  and 
a  semi-circular  colonnade  to  the  south  entrance,  being  a 
moiety  of  the  old  State  Prison,  now  altered  and  improved, 
and  used  for  public  or  benevolent  purposes,  the  property  of 
a  wealthy  citizen,  Mr.  L . 

If  far  enough  out  towards  the  middle  of  the  stream,  we 
Can  discern,  in  passing  along  the  front  of  the  city,  the  tower- 
ing and  castellated  summits  of  the  New- York  University, 
that  is  situated  several  blocks  towards  the  interior  of  the 
city  facing  on  Washington-square ;  and  also  the  domes  of 
the  two  reservoirs  of  water  in  13th-street,  near  Union- 
square.  '■''"'  "'■•'  '■■'■■■■■'■■■■  .^'       ■  ■<■  ■ 

After  passing  fourteen  more  streets  or  blocks,  we  notice 
the  tall  chimney  of  the  Manhattan  Gas  Works,  ninety  feet 
high,  and  on  the  third  and  fourth  blocks  beyond,  the  hand- 
some gothic  spire  and  Episcopal  church  of  St.  Peters,  and 
the  Episcopal  Theological  Seminary,  and  the  insulated 
mansion  of  Clement  Moore,  Esq.  together  with  many  other 
comfortable  residences  of  wealthy  citizens  on  the  northern 
confines  of  the  city ;  and  in  twelve  more  blocks  we  pass  the 
New-York  Chemical  Works,  and  the  Asylum  for  the  Blind 
on  the  8th  and  9th  Avenues,  on  an  elevation  back  from  the 
river.  The  Timber  Basin  for  enclosing  floating  logs  and 
rafts  projects  out  awkwa  dly  between  36th  and  45th  streets, 
and  we  are  now  fairly  beyond  the  outskirts  of  the  great  me- 
tropolis, and  must  again  glance  our  eye  to  the  western 
shore. 

The  spacious  stone  mansion  that  surmqjjnts  the  brow  of 
the  beginning  of  the  Palisades,  is  the  country  residence  of 
James  G.  King,  Esq.  the  Wall-street  banker,  and  occupies 
one  of  the  most  commanding  sites  in  the  vicinity  of  New- 
York,  looking  forth  on  the  river  below,  the  city  and 
harbor,  and  through  the  Narrows  to  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 
There  are  several  neat  villas  of  less  pretension  exhibited 


A- 


Fort  }VathingUm  and  Fort  Lee.  9 

along  the  summit  ridge  as  we  continue  on,  and  others  at 
the  foot,  or  on  the  slope,  or  curiously  nestled  in  ravines  in 
close  proximity  to  masses  of  rock  that  impend  over  or 
surround  them.  Just  before  arriving  at  Bull's  Ferry  we  see 
on  the  summit  the  mansion  of  William  Coo))er,  Esq  an 
eminent  naturalist,  and  one  of  the  founders  of  the  Ly- 
ceum of  Natural  History  of  New- York.  On  the  opposite 
shore,  observe  the  new  building,  the  Orphan  Asylum, 
removed  to  this  beautiful  site  from  its  former  location  in 
Greenwich. 

Many  strikingly  beautiful  country  seats  of  wealthy  and 
comfortable  citizens  present  themselves  in  agreeable  suc- 
cession for  ten  miles  on  the  eastern  or  New- York  side  of  the 
river.  The  narrowest  pass  on  the  Hudson  below  the  High- 
lands is  the  rocky  and  acute  projection  beneath  Fort  Wash- 
ington, and  nearly  opposite  to  Fort  Lee.  A  large  body  of 
American  troops  in  1777  were  embodied  near  the  city  of 
New- York,  when  it  was  captured  by  the  British  army  after 
the  battle  on  Long-Island,  when  our  army  was  withdrawn, 
and  a  force  of  two  or  three  thousand  of  America*  mi- 
litia, was  left  to  defend  the  weak  and  straggling  lines  that 
had  been  erected  on  and  around  the  brow  of  the  hill 
of  Mount  Washington,  but  they  were  incapable  of  a 
prolonged  defence ;  the  Hessians  advanced  from  the  east 
or  Harlaem  side  in  overpowering  numbers,  and  carried  the 
works  at  the  point  of  the  bayonet ;  the  retreat  of  the  Ame- 
ricans being  cut  off  m  every  direction,  they  were  slaugh- 
tered in  cold  blood  by  the  foreign  mercenaries,  or  held  in 
captivity  during  the  war  on  board  the  noted  prison-ship 
in  the  Wall aboght,  where  hundreds  fell  victims  to  suffering 
and  discEuse.  There  are  very  slight  remains  to  be  seen  of 
these  revolutionary  field-works.  The  writer  has  often  trod 
upon  the  hallowed  spot  before  the  erection  of  the  present 
showy,  and  gay,  and  jaunty-looking  mansions  that  are  now 
seen  there,  one  of  them  on  the  side-slope,  being  an  hotel. 
The  view  from  the  crown  of  the  hill  extends  for  twenty 
miles  up,  and  the  same  down  the  river;  and  eastward  to 
Long-Island  Sound  and  the  Hempstead  hills,  the  elevation 
is  238  feet ;  the  height  of  the  opposite  cliffs  at  Fort  Lee  land- 
ing is  311  feet.  The  latter  is  an  admired  place  of  resort, 
and  is  fast  gaining  upon  the  knowledge  and  good  will  of  the 
worthy  citizens  that  venture  thus  far  in  the  steam-boat,  and 
Q.scend  to  the  summit  of  the  noble  bluff,  and  look  around 


'    / 


"iplllfl 


•). 


10 


SutmnU  of  the  "Palitades. 


'.  (■ 


and  beneath  them.  Perchance  they  stray  a  few  miles,  or 
lounge  along  near  the  brow  of  ihifj  lovely  terrace,  that  as 
yet  remains  in  all  its  pristine  wildness  and  beauty.  Long 
may  it  thus  continue.  A  path  leads  along  the  summit  of 
this  noble  terrace,  on  a  smooth  green  sward,  winding  among 
evergreens  and  oaks  mile  after  mile,  now  approaching  to 
the  edge  of  the  precipice,  and  from  salient  rngles  exhibiting 
a  series  of  bird  s  eye,  profile,  and  plunging  views,  down  and 
along  this  immense  and  irregular  wall  of  trap-rock;  after 
recoiling  from  the  startling  and  sudden  view  of  the  abyss, 
we  are  led  onward,  by  a  succession  of  these  wonderfully 
fine  views  that  encham  the  admiration  of  the  artist  and  the 
lover  of  the  grand  works  of  nature,  and  can  follow  this  path 
near  the  very  brink  for  fifteen  or  twenty  miles,  and  find  the 
scene  perpetually  changing  and  presenting  some  new  and 
striking  feature  of  sublimity.  Occasionallj^  seme  rapid 
brawling  stream  or  slight  gurgling  brook  will  dash  along 
the  path,  and  leap  over  the  steep  descent,  but  no  serious 
impediment  is  thus  presented  to  the  active  pedestrian  in 
this  prolonged  ramble,  but  rather  an  additional  excitement 
and  pleasure. 

Tne  face  of  the  summit  is  sufiiciently  clothed  with  a  va- 
riety of  forest  trees,  shrubbery,  and  flowers,  to  delight  and 
amuse  the  botanist;  the  rocks  here  and  there  protrude 
through  the  surface  of  the  soil,  where  the  water  courses 
and  exposure  to  the  rough  and  beating  storms  from  the 
north-east  have  worn  down  to  the  hard  and  solid  rock ;  yet 
good  farms  and  rich  gardens  are  found  spread  over  its  sur- 
face, on  various  slopes,  away  from  the  edge  of  the  eastern 
face,  and  threading  our  way  over  the  hill  now  ascending  or 
descending,  we  find  in  a  mile  or  two  to  the  west,  clearings 
admitting  an  extensive  view  over  the  distant  borders  of  the 
Hackensack,  and  an  admirable  aerial  perspective  through 
the  blue  vapor  to  the  chain  of  hills  in  the  interior  of  New 
Jersey. 

The  Asylum  for  Lunatics  at  Manhattanville  occupies  a 
commanding  position  a  few  rods  from  the  east  bank  of  the 
river,  and  has  seventy  acres  of  ground  annexed,  with  am- 
ple range  for  the  inmates  about  the  lawns,  gardens,  and 
pleasure-grounds-  The  leading  principle  of  the  system  ofl 
management  being  of  the  most  improved  and  humane  de- 
scription, and  thus  far  with  the  happiast  effect.  The  State 
of  New-York  has  made  liberal  donations  to  this  insiiiii- 


J 


llJ^pp.llVljl 


,v.**>v     Vottken*, 


'b-: 


11 


miles,  or 
e,  that  a:> 
ty.    Long 
ummit  of 
ng  among 
caching  to 
exhibiting 
J  down  and 
ock;  after 
the  a>»yss, 
onderfully 
tist  and  the 
w  this  path 
ind  find  the 
ne  new  and 
seme  rapid 
dash  along 
,  no  serious 
sdestrian  in 
i  excitement 

d  with  a  va- 

k  delight  and 

;re  protrude 

ater  courses 

ms  from  the 

»lid  rock ;  yet 

over  its  sur- 

f  the  eastern 

ascending  or 

est,  clearings 

Dorders  of  the 

ctive  through 

erior  of  New 

I 
lie  occupies  a 
,st  bank  of  the 
xed,  with  am- 
gardens,  and 
_  the  system  of 
id  humane  de- 
.ct.  The  State 
this  institu- 


tion. For  a  full  description  of  this  and  other  public  build- 
ings in  the  metropolis,  see  the  Picture  of  New- York  and 
Stranger's  Guide,  by  Goodrich. 

Beyond  the  ruins  of  Fort  Washington  the  heights  of 
Harlaem  are  seen  to  skirt  upon  the  river,  and  to  trend  away 
to  the  south-east  along  the  southern  side  of  the  Spuylen 
Duyvely  or  the  inlet  from  Hurlgate  to  the  Hudson,  that  in- 
sulates the  island  of  Manhiittan  from  the  main,  and  that  is 
crossed,  at  or  near  its  eastern  extremity,  by  a  wooden 
bridge,  at  the  termination  of  the  Third  Avenue  and  the  via- 
duct leading  from  the  Harlaem  railroad  to  Albany,  and 
also  by  the  aqueduct  from  the  Croton  River,  from  whence 
the  water  is  led  down  near  the  river  road,  along  the  height 
of  land,  for  forty  miles,  and  comes  out  opposite  Harlaem 
heights,  at  114  feet  above  tide  water.  This  costly  work  is 
destined  to  last  for  ages,  and  to  be  of  immense  importan  ^e 
to  the  health  and  welfare  of  the  city,  and  the  total  expense 
ten  millions  of  dollars.  The  various  excavations,  tunnels, 
arches,  embankments,  superstructures,  &c.  are  highly 
worthy  of  the  minute  examination  of  every  stranger  and 
curious  visiter,  and  for  full  particulars  reference  may  be 
had  t©  the  Picture  of  New- York  as  before  mentioned.     , 


Pliillipsburgh,  or  Yonkers^ 


,<;     >.  ■ 


isifc 


■IV  <'$■;:. 


Seventeen  milesTfom  New-York,  at  the  mouth  of  a  small 
stream  called  the  Sawmill  River,  next  occurs  on  the  east 
shore,  and  as  it  is  deeply  nestled  in  the  vale,  the  stranger 
will  be  apt  to  overlook  it,  unless  the  boat  should  hug  the 
shore  on  that  side.  The  spire  of  the  village  church,  peer- 
ing up  from  amid  the  trees,  and  ruling  over  the  quietness 
and  seclusion  of  the  old  Dutch  settlement,  with  its  water- 
fall, mills,  and  comfortable  abodes,  neat  lawns  a»d  gardens, 
is  quite  a  picture ;  but  if  the  boat  keep  too  far  out  in  the 
stream,  as  usual,  much  of  this  effect  and  feeling  is  lost ;  but 
if  the  traveler  will,  at  this  spot,  direct  his  attention  to  the 
line  of  the  Palisades  on  the  opposite  or  west  shore,  he  will 
beheld  the  highest  part  of  the  range  517  to  550  feet  high  ; 
the  summit  even  and  regular  as  the  cornice  of  a  house,  the 
entire  facade  like  the  ruins  of  an  ancient  feudal  castle,  or- 


57 


"^pii^iiipiipwii.ii  I  \ 


i 


i 

11 


:>' 


13 


Facade  of  tJie  Palisades, 


namented  with  the  moss  and  hue  of  antiquity.  The  next 
hundred  years  will  present,  on  the  crowning  ridge  of  the 
majestic  ralisades,  one  of  the  most  imposing  assemblages 
of  elegant  and  substantial  mansions  that  the  world  can  dis- 
play, and  will  be  a  suitable  finish  to  such  a  commanding 
r^levation.  Our  prophecy  is  already  begun  to  be  fulfilled 
in  part,  twenty  miles  below,  at  Bergen,  Hoboken,  and 
Weehawken. 

Taking  a  retrospective  profile  view  of  the  west  shore  when 
approaching  the  termination  where  the  precipice  subsides 
opposite  Dobb's  Ferry  landing,  or  Hastings  or  Greenbush,  the 
singular  efiect  will  be  noticed  that  is  produced  by  the  gra- 
dual diminution  of  the  height  from  north  to  south,  adding 
to  and  distorting  the  regular  perspective  effect  agreeable; 
to  the  laws  of  vision— ])ut  the  vista,  nevertheless,  is  grand 
and  unrivalled ;  and  when  viewed  in  various  aspects,  in 
thje  bright  morning  sun,  or  the  coming  shadows  of  evening, 
or  tipt  or  shrouded  with  mist,  or  in  the  mild  effulgence  of 
the  full  orbed  moon,  new  sources  of  beauty  are  noticed 
and  elicited,  equally  gratifying  and  surprising  to  the  ob- 
server of  the  picturesque  in  nature. 

This  rugged-looking  mass  of  rock,  that  seems  to  defy  the 
thought  of  scaling  its  frowning  and  severe  walls,  may  be  as- 
cended in  a  few  places ;  and  at  Closter  landing,  opposite 
Phillipsburgh,  a  country  road  exists  and  extends  up  b^ 
several  zig-zag  and  sharp  turns,  and  ascends  to  the  summit 
level  and  leads  to  the  secluded  valley  on  the  western  slope 
of  the  English  (Dutch)  Neighborhood  Along  the  Hacken- 
sack  River.  ^ 

The  boundary  line  of  New-York  and  New  Jersey  strikes 
off  to  the  N.  W.  from  about  the  highest  place  of  the  pali- 
sade range ;  and  from  the  first  dock  north,  a  path  branches 
to  the  left,  or  south,  by  which  the  pedestrian  may,  by  fol- 
lowing for  a  mile  or  two,  reach  the  summit  of  the  hill,  pant- 
ing with  his  exertion,  and  be  fully  rewarded  by  the  panora- 
mic scene  before  him. 

At  about  22  miles  from  New-York  we  enter  upon  the 
first  change  in  the  usual  width  of  the  Hudson  River ;  the 
shores  recede  on  each  side,  and  leave  an  expansion  three 
miles  broad,  known  by  the  high  sounding  name  of  the 
Tappan  Sea,  and  especially  commended  to  the  notice  of  the 
Traveler  from  historical  and  literary  associations.  The 
fields  on  each  border  of  the  river,  especially  on  the  east,  in 


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'1; 


)n. 


•'^  pTo'Ue  V  <i»w  of  I  tw.'  -wait  shore  when 

an  wh«*r«*  th'.'  prvcrmcc  subsides 

r  cr H«.sf '"nir '-"Greenbush, the 

tijAt  ;•:  J  f!.K,rced  by  the  gra- 

/a  fro«i  not.i;  ?o  south,  ad^iing^- 

;  ifrjfujar  p«Mspectiv«  «ffltect  agiee*blfc- 

. — hu;  ibe  vista,  iiai^^tihelcss,  im  gfraad 

u  wi»f  i  vi?}wed  lu.  vrairious  aspects,  in 

•  iin,  Of  the  co^nifti*  Mhft»io ws  of  evensiii^' 

fi  "vitU  mist,  or  m  jMu  oiiid  effulgence  of 

•;  iic%  sour*^'  .'  »<»   Ssatily  are  noticed 

.    .  gratifying  H/! a  a.. 1*71  rising  to  Ihc  ob- 

•;sq\i<?  ill  '\^-\X}^:  '    '      "l-~^..  v:'^v-^;'?^ 

?;j  mais*  *«  /.'^icii,  s  bat  ?iP€ms  to  defp  the 

Y.ur     •  nM,  %?v«re  walls,  ma)'  be  as- 

:  ;  w.i     *•.,  Olo'iei-  landjng,  opposite 

'uatry  ?C2sm!  exists  and  extends  up  by 

•ih-^r?'  Iy«'si0«.,  and  asc^^ad?  to  tht^  t^uu-Jiat 

-    ,    ■-.;•»  y(?,j]ey  rtfj  *hv  western  j-lopc 

.u  ;,,  . ...  .;.u**i>iWod  j|iong  the  Hacken- 


iftg  with  h 
«Wi;  sce»<2  i-."  . 

-ileirt  chft*«^xi  i-i  ■ 


••kftjid  New  Jer^y  strikes 

;'h«»"ST  place  <>J'  rb.'^  pali- 

..  '.  uoiVl^,  d.  pa?h  I'rarfcher^ 

t  Uie  pBd*;jsTri«a  may,  by  fol- 

*he  f^imwiit  of  the  HilJ,  paut- 

*ii»  J*  i'^iif  rewarded  by  the  panora- 

••te#  ' ' '  JiW-iM^  we  enter  upon  the 

'A-s^jTlJie  H^.td.son  River,  tJse 

'"■  '■  l^&^'r  itu  €X:pf,5.ndi<m  three , 

■i-  •;^.uis>^l;,,^  r.arne  of  the 

'  5/' ?h*^  notice  of  th« 

:«>f   SAJKi»^»tiv)UH.    The 

»ii,.:.it^:^..:^  ■,^:.,-^^0^0^iy  .4t^  tho  cast,  ia 


J 


;t 


1" 


I/' 


i/ 


>^^H 

<g 

Vm 

^ 

km 

1 

l>1 

3 

i 

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i 

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#.»1H 

<  •• 


m 


u^. 


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<! 

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1 

--^■■--:-     \ 

\ 

,:,;,.  ^ 

- 

Tappan^W.  Irving* 


13 


the  county  of  West  Chester,  were  the  neutral  ground,  or 
scene  of  border  operations  during  the  American  war,  when 
the  enemy  held  posse:!<sion  of  New- York  and  sent  oat  their 
foraging  and  marauding  parties ;  and  the  tale  of  many  a  bor- 
der story  and  feat  of  arms  is  associated  with  the  hills  and 
valleys  around  the  range  of  our  view,  this  being  a  hazardous 
region  for  both  parties,  and  more  particularly  for  whig  and 
tory,  militia  and  cow-boys.  Spies  were  employed  on  both 
sides,  and  when  caught,  as  Major  Andre  had  the  ill  luck  to 
be,  near  the  village  here  in  plain  sight  on  the  east,  called 
Tarrytown,  and  carried  over  the  river  to  Tappau,  about 
three  miles  up  the  hill  west  of  the  landing,  and  hung;  it 
was  no  more  than  the  fortune  of  war,  and  to  be  expected 
by  all  that  ventured  on  such  a  graceless  employment. 

The  literary  reminiscences  alluded  to  are  of  more  re- 
cent origin,  and  of  a  much  more  agreeable  character, 
being  the  emanations  of  the  popular  American  author, 
Washington  Irving.  His  country  seat  is  appropriately  and 
judiciously  placed  near  the  margin  ot  the  Hudson,  and  amid 
the  very  scenes  immortalized  in  portions  of  his  most  face- 
tious Knickerbocker  and  his  inimitable  Sketch  Book.  His 
villa  is  on  the  eastside  of  the  river,  about  25  miles  from 
New- York,  and,  may  be  pointed  out  to  the  eager  eyes 
of  the  inquisitive  traveler  as  of  moderate  dimensions, 
and  with  queer  gables  in  the  Dutch  style,  with  a  neat 
lawn  and  grounds  environing  it,  and  is  within  a  short 
distance  of  Tarrytown,  and  of  the  Dutch  Church,  bridge, 
and  pond  in  the  valley  of  Sleepy-hollow,  of  Ichabod  Crane 
memory. 

The  great  rail-road  projected  from  the  Hudson  River  to 
Lake  Erie,  will  commence  at  the  landing  at  the  west  side 
the  Slote,  a  mile  above  the  Palisades,  and  follow  the  ravine 
up  to  the  west  and  north-west,  near  the  border  line  of  New 
Jersey. 


IVyack^ 


twenty-five  miles  from  New-York,  the  next  village  north  of 
Tappan,  has  a  landing,  and  a  road  that  leads  over  the  moun- 
tain to  the  interior  of  Rockland  county.  The  red  sand- 
stone was  formerly  quarried  in  abundance  in  this  vicinity 

2 


14 


Syack'^  Siuff  Sim^ —  Crolon . 


for  the  cily  marke<,  until  the  eastern  granite  and  the  mar- 
ble of  West  Chester  county  supplanted  it  in  the  favor  of 
the  public.  The  large  State  Prison  at  Sing- Sing,  on  the 
immediate  bank  of  the  river  on  the  east  shore,  is  an  exten- 
sive construction  of  the  marble  above  alluded  to  and  reared 
by  the  convicts,  and  is  capable  of  celling  or  caging  one  f  hou- 
vsand,  side  by  side  aad  tier  on  tier,  like  a  liive  of  bees.  The 
system  of  discipline  here  pursued  is  rigid,  and  exacting  strict 
Alienee,  severe  labor,  and  solitary  confinement  at  night. 


■^' 


"*■  '■  Ci 


';.f 


•',1 


•  •   '-if*"-  ■    !  ■ 


Croton  River 


>.»»  V 


comes  in  about  2  miles  above  Sing  Sing,  and  supplies  at 
times  a  considerable  volume  of  waier  to  the  Hudson  in 
the  sprinq:  season.  It  rises  in  Putnam  county,  in  the  High- 
lands east  of  the  Hudson,  near  the  Connecticut  line,  in  Pa- 
terson,  Kent,  and  South  East ;  and  has  its  sources  in  pure 
ponds  in  a  granite  region ;  and  after  running  in  a  south-west- 
ern direction  for  about  forty  miles  through  North  Salem, 
Somers,  Bedford,  Yorktown,  and  Cortlandt,  what  then  re- 
mains of  the  water  after  a  portion  of  it  being  diverted  and 
taken  off  to  supply  the  large  reservoirs  and  thirsty  popula- 
tion, and  to  cleanse  the  dusty  streets  of  the  great  metropo- 
lis, forty  miles  below,  falls  into  the  no^le  Hudson  at  Teller's 
Point,  and  has  there  formed  a  mass  of  earth  and  stones,  that 
the  rapid  freshets  of  the  Croton  have  accumulated  into  a 
respectable  isthmus  or  prolongation  of  land  that  intrudes 
out  a  mile  from  the  east  towards  the  western  shore,  and 
thus  distinctly  separates  the  Tappan  from  the  Haverstraw 
bay.   ..  ,.,,■  ,..,.,  ,  .    ,  ,  . 


VreclidiGker  Hooky 


a  bold  headland  that  rises  majestically  from  the  water 
on  the  west  shore  between  the  villages  of  Nyack  and  Ha- 
verstraw, is  668  feet  in  height,  and  stretches  gracefully  out 
to  meet  the  low  land  from  the  eastern  shore,  and  forms  a 
distinct  point  of  demarcation  between  the  upper  and  lower 
bays ;  and  the  tourist  will  observe  that  each  successive  and 


Vredidicker  Mountain  and  Lake—llaverstraic  Bay.       IT. 

prominent  mass  of  rock  on  the  western  shore  from  the 
southern  point  of  Bergen  in  Mew  Jersey,  where  it  dips  be- 
neath the  waves  of  the  Kills,  as  we  proceed  up  the  Hudson, 
attains  gradually  a  greater  elevation,  as  will  be  seen  as 
we  proceed  in  our  course  through  the  Highlands  and  to  the 
Cattslcills,  where  "  Alps  on  Alps  arise,"  and  thus  prepares 
the  astonished  and  delighted  traveler,  by  mild  and  succes- 
sive gradations  of  increasing  height,  grandeur,  and  subli- 
mity, for  the  more  imposing  and  delightful  scenes  that  will 
now  soon  be  disclosed.  ,•  r^^'ti  i 

On  the  Vredidiker  mountain  is  a  cl^ar  crystal  lake  of  three 
or  four  miles  in  circumference,  that  forms  the  source  of  the 
Hackensack  River,  and  although  not  more  than  a  short  mile 
from  the  Hudson,  is  elevated  above  it  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty  feet;  and  if  the  traveler  notices  a  depression  of  the 
ridge  above  at  the  first  landing,  after  passing  close  beneath 
the  Vredidiker  mountain,  with  a  steep  road  ascending  the 
hill,  he  will  have  the  locality  in  view,  as  the  lake  is  there  in 
that  direction;  and  the  pure  clear  Rockland  ice  that  is  sup- 
plied to  the  citizens  of  New- York,  is  produced  at  this  spot,  by 
the  unmitigated  and  prolonged  severity  of  the  Siberian  cli- 
mate of  this  exposure;  and  the  delicious  ice-creams  and  the 
wicked  bowls  of  punch  that  are  consumed  in  New- York 
owe  their  charms  in  a  large  degree  to  the  reservoir  of  ice 
that  is  here  cut  out  in  huge  blocks,  and  slid  down  to  the 
level  of  the  river  below,  and  when  the  river  breaks  up,  vast 
stores  of  this  commodity  are  transported  ;  j  the  city. 

We  now  glide  rapidly  past  the  Vredidicker,  into  a  second 
expansion  of  the  Hudson,  the  Haverstraw  Bay,  of  about  the 
same  size  as  the  previous  one  that  we  have  left  behind  us, 
and  our  course,  that,  soon  after  leaving  the  city,  had  for 
twenty  miles  been  nearly  due  north  until  we  past  the  Pali- 
sades and  the  Sea  of  Tappan,  now  assumes,  for  the  ensuing 
ten  miles,  a  north-west  direction,  and  gives  us  leisure 
10  cast  a  retrospective  glance  towards  the  smooth  bay  we 
have  just  left  behind  us,  and  the  fast  receding  outlines  of  the 
distant  Palisades,  fading  into  the  dim  blue  haze  of  the  hori- 
zon, with  its  beautiful  aerial  tints  ;  our  attention  will  now 
be  directed  to  the  extensive  panorama  that  surrounds  us, 
to  the  singular  crest  and  form  of  the  mountain-top  on  the 
west  shore,  known  as  the  His^h  Torn,  about  eight  hundred 
feet  in  height,  (and  a  remarkable  and  distinct  landmark 
even  from  as  low  down  as  Newark  bay,  and  the  hills  of 


16 


Stony  Point — Verplanck^a  Point. 


Staten  Island  and  New  Jersey,)  with  the  village  of  Ha- 
verstraw  or  Warren  at  the  base,  and  the  fine  curved  line 
of  ihe  shores  and  slopes  of  the  hills  on  each  side  as  we  ap- 
proach the  landings  of  Grassy  Point  on  the  west,  and  Fcr- 
planck^s  on  the  east,  and  the  light-house  on  Stony  Point  oppo- 
site. This  eminence  is  memorable  for  the  bloody  assault  made 
upon  it  during  the  revolutionary  war  by  Gen.  Wayne  and 
his  brave  American  troops,  that  were  detached  for  that  pur- 
pose by  Gen.  Washington,  from  the  forces  at  West  Point, 
and  after  making  a  detour  amonq  the  hills  for  twenty  miles, 
approached  this  pest  (then  held  by  the  enemy,  and  strong- 
ly fortified  and  manned)  and  stealthily  and  in  the  profound 
silence  and  darkness  of  midnight,  with  fixed  bayonets  and 
uuflinted  guns,  surprised  the  unwary  sentinels  and  dis- 
tant out^posts,  advanced  suddenly  to  the  attack,  cut  dowu 
the  pickets,  entered  and  carried  the  works  by  a  coup  de 
main,  without  firing  a  gun,  and  made  prisoners  of  the  gar- 
rison, sparing  all  that  threw  down  their  arms.    The  ene- 
my also  at  the  same  time  held  possession  of  the  fort  across 
the  river  at  Verplanck's  Point,  and  the  next  day  a  warm 
exchange  of  cannon  balls  took  place,  that  resulted  in  the 
evacuation  of  Stony  Point  by  the  American  troops  that 
had  so  gallantly  captured  it ;  as  a  much  superior  force  of 
the  enemy  was  advancing  upon  them,  and  it  was  useless  to 
resist  the  combined  attack  that  was  preparing  by  the  Brit- 
ish force  by  land  and  water.  The  fort  was  demolished,  and 
the  military  stores  taken  away: — thus  it  had  alternately 
been  taken  originally  from  Wayne  by  the  British,  then  re- 
captured by  him,  and  again  retaken  by  the  enemy,  and  held 
during  the  war. 

Having  entered  the  portals,  and  here  rapidly  drawing 
near  the  most  interesting  scenery  of  the  Hignlands,  we  re- 
commend the  traveler  at  this  time,  when  about  forty  miles 
from  New- York,  for  the  sake  of  having  an  unobstructed 
view,  to  assume  a  position  on  the  upper  deck  on  the  forward 
part,  and  to  make  a  diligent  use  of  hi?  eyes  in  viewing 
the  objects  and  leading  features  that  pass  in  such  rapid 
review. 

The  Dunderberg,  or  Dunderbarrack,  or  Thunder  moun- 
tain on  the  west,  is  nine  hundred  feet  high,  and  ranges  for 
several  miles  from  south-west  to  north-er.st,  and  from  its 
rounded  and  commanding  summit,  is  a  very  extensive  view 
ever  the  county  of  Westchester  to  Long  Island  Sound,  and 


Dunderherg  Mountain^ Fort  Clinton^  $fc. 


n 


down  the  river  and  bays  that  we  have  passed,  to  the  vicini- 
ty of  New- York,  and  across  the  east  side  of  the  Hudson  lo 
Pe^kskill,  and  the  mountains  in  Putnam  county,  and  the 
summits  around  West  Point.  The  village  of  Caldwell,  or 
Gibraltar,  as  sometimes  called,  is  at  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain, and  is  usually  the  first  landing-place  for  the  large  Al- 
bany boats  after  leaving  the  city  of  New- York,  and  where 
the  Peekskill  passengers  disembark. 

One  that  has  never  before  ascended  the  Hudson  River, 
would  here  be  at  a  loss  to  conjecture  from  this  position,  as 
he  looks  around  and  is  apparently  embaye<3,  in  what  direc- 
tion to  look  for*  extrication  from  this  mil  de  sac]  whether 
through  the  deep  opening  to  the  right,  or  the  one  in  fiont 
leading  through  the  vista  in  the  mountains; — af^er  bemg 
kept  in  agreeable  suspense  for  a  few  minutes  while  near  the 
Caldwell  landing,  and  gazing  up  at  the  stupendous  eleva- 
tion close  at  hand,  that  the  steamer  almost  brushes  or  gra- 
zes in  its  prniing  and  rapid  course,  the  boat  suddenly  is  di- 
rected to  the  left  or  west,  round  the  ."icute  point  or  angle 
that  opens  into  the  race,  a  short  reach  of  the  river  between 
the  Dunderberg  on  the  south,  and  St.  Anthony's,  the  next 
point  on  the  north. 

After  advancing  for  a  few  minutes  to  the  west,  when 
near  the  Salisbury  island,  do  not  omit  to  observe  the 
grandeur  produced  by  the  amphitheatrical  slope  and  ter- 
mination of  the  Dunderberg  mountaiu  on  the  left,  with 
its  hardy  covering  of  evergreen  trees,  the  pines  or  ce- 
dars, that  here  till  up  an  angle  of  several  degrees  above 
the  horizon  as  we  pass  within  shadow  of  the  reflection  in 
the  deep  water  at  iis  base ;  or  the  towering  front  of  the  Bare 
Mountain,  that  here  presents  its  majestic  elevation  on  the 
west,  of  one  thousand  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  Polo- 
per's  creek,  a  small  mill-stream,  that  has  its  origin  a  few 
miles  in  the  interior  of  Rockland  county,  finds  us  way 
through  the  dark  ravine  down  to  the  base  of  the  mountain, 
and  forms  a  secluded  basin  or  harbor  for  the  small  river 
sloops  that  frequent  the  mills  and  landing  to  load  with  flour 
and  wood. 

Each  side  of  the  creek  on  the  crest  of  the  hill,  are  the  re- 
mains of  two  field-works,  forts  Clinton  and  Montgomery, 
erecte-'  during  the  war  of  the  revolution,  as  a  part  cf  the 
system  planned  for  the  defence  of  the  Highlands.  In  the 
afiair  that  here  transpired,  October,  1777,  severo.l  hundred 

2* 


mmsn^ 


mBBmmm 


18 


Anthony*$  Nose. 


men  fell  in  the  attack  and  defence  of  this  mountain  pass  on 
the  banks  of  the  Hudson.  Sir  Henry  Clinton  led  the  at- 
tack, and  destroyed  the  large  boom  and  chain  that  cost  se- 
venty thousand  pounds  sterling,  and  another  of  less  value  at 
fort  Constitution.  This  first  massive  boom  and  iron  chain 
was  extended  across  from  the  east  to  the  west  shore  oppo- 
site to  the  point  of  St.  Anthony,  and  under  the  guns  of 
forts  opposite,  in  the  vain  attempt  to  stop,  or  momenta- 
rily impede  the  progress  of  the  large  armed  ships  of  the 
enemy,  in  their  advance  up  the  river  with  troops  to  aid 
Burgoyne,  and  to  burn  the  towns  above.  But  this  was 
money  wasted  on  both  sides,  for  the  chain  did  not  accom- 
plish its  intention,  although  it  cost  an  immense  sum  of 
money,  and  the  union  with  Burgoyne  was  not  effected. 

The  bloody  affair  in  this  mountain  fastness  resulted  in 
the  capture  of  the  place  by  the  enemy  at  the  point  of  the 
bayonet,  after  the  garrison  of  only  six  hundred  men  had 
made  a  gallant  defence  against  a  very  superior  force  (three 
thousand)  that  came  upon  them  unawares. 

It  was  upon  this  occasion  that  George  Clinton,  one  of  the 
officers  in  command,  Governor  of  New- York,  and  subse- 
<iuently  Vice-President  of  the  United  States,  succeeded  in 
making  his  escape  in  the  dusk  of  eve  in  a  boat,  and  his 
brother  James  also,  though  wounded,  by  plunging  into  the 
Hudson  and  swimming  to  the  opposite  shore. 

Anlhonifs  Nose,  on  the  right  or  east  shore,  that  rears  its 
much  admired  pyramidical-shaped  mass  of  r.'fcks  to  an  ele- 
vation of  eleven  hundred  and  twenty-eight  feet,  at  an  angle 
estimated  at  forty-five  or  fifty  degrees  from  the  level  of  the 
noble  river  that  deeply  ii'urts  its  base,  and  terminates  the 
reach  called  the  Race,  introduces  us  to  another  of  the 
lovely  changes  in  the  scenery  of  this  famous  region,  when 
the  traveler  is  enabled  by  the  progress  of  the  steamer  to 
turn  the  sharp  corner  of  the  saint's  prominence,  vulgarly 
called  hisnosc,  and  thus,  by  a  shifting  of  the  scene,  to  be- 
hold another  admirable  vista  of  six  or  seven  miles  in  ex- 
tent, running  nearly  north  and  south,  between  mountains 
and  ranges  of  pleasing  variety  and  contour,  especially  the 
east  or  right  hand  shore,  with  the  intervention  of  an  island 
and  a  low  green  meadow  on  the  left,  to  soften  and  harmo- 
nize the  picture,  aided  by  the  rude  log  hut  cTthe  fisherman 
or  woodman,  with  just  sufficiency  of  arable  and  grazing 
land  at  his  command  to  enable  him  to  exhibit  an  abortive 


Buttermilk  Falls — Sugar  Loaf. 


19 


attempt  perhaps  to  raise  his  indian  corn,  peas,  and  pump- 
kins. 

Beyond  the  island,  and  four  miles  from  the  race,  we 
come  to  the  flour  mills  at  Buttermilk  Falls;  but  as  the 
truth  of  its  name  and  Dutch  cognomen  depends  entirely 
upon  a  bountiful  supply  of  water,  wasting  and  spreading 
over  the  smooth  surface  of  a  solid  rock,  and  fretting 
itself  into  a  fury  and  foam  in  its  snowy  descent,  and  as 
this  requisite  supply  cannot  always  be  spared,  or  allowed 
to  stray  and  straggle  away  in  this  manner,  from  the  unde- 
niable requirements  of  the  mill  during  a  drought  or  dry 
long  season  of  midsummer,  merely  to  gratify  the  eyes  of 
ladies  and  gentlemen  that  pass  it  for  a  minute  or  two  in  ra- 
pid review,  it  may  be  proper  here  to  state,  that  though  at 
certain  times  and  seasons  of  the  year  it  exhibits  much  beau- 
ty, and  is  a  just  object  of  admiration,  yet  at  others  the 
stream  is  dwindled  to  a  mere  rill,  and  the  searcher  after 
the  picturesque  and  beautiful  is  liable  to  be  sadly  disap- 
pointed, when  nothing  can  he  seen  but  the  stains  on  the 
naked  rock,  the  traces  of  its  former  ephemeral  beauty. 

A  more  durable  and  enduring  monument  of  nature,  in 
the  size,  height,  and  form  of  the  sugar  loaf  mountain,  nearly 
opposite  to  Lydig's  mills,  or  the  Buttermilk  Palls,  is  worthy 
of  our  notice  as  we  get  on, — its  height  is  eight  hundred  and 
sixty  feet,  a  little  more  than  the  famous  pyramids  of  Egypt. 
As  the  traveler  changes  his  position,  and  views  this  object 
on  various  sides  and  at  different  angles,  the  resemblance 
to  a  sugar  loaf  cannot  always  in  such  cases  be  detected,  but 
it  resembles  much  some  of  the  bluffs  on  the  Mississippi  or 
Missouri. 

Th-<  mansion  opposite  the  falls,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the. 
w  .f>  'oaf,  is  the  property  of  Mr.  Arden,  as  is  also  the  hilly 
a  •  •  0'  ded  tract  to  a  considerable  extent  around;  and  at 
a  ve  '/  lecT  rods  in  a  southern  direction,  in  a  spot  not  visible 
to  the  tia/eler  in  passing  on  the  river,  is  the  memorable 
scene  where  Benedict  Arnold  held  his  secret  and  treason- 
able midnight  interviews  with  the  adjutant-general  of  the 
British  army,  to  make  his  developements  and  unfold  his 
plans  to  deliver  up  West  Point,  the  American  army  and 
the  nation,  into  the  power  of  the  enemy  then  our  oppo- 
nents; the  best  details  of  these  events  may  be  found  in 
he  recent  piiblication  of  Spa  k's  American  Biography,  in 
?' c  sket'  li  of  Arnold;  it  only  remains  for  us  to  say,  that 


TT 


so 


Fort  Putnam— Kosciufili  6' s  Garden. 


1 
.  1 


the  tragical  fate  and  denouement  of  an  individual  in  the 
story  has  elicited  too  much  mawkish  sensibility  towards 
one  of  the  principal  actors  in  this  drama  of  the  history  of 
America. 

V/hen  at  about  fifty  miles  from  New-York,  we  catch  the 
first  glimpse  of  the  ruins  of  Fori  Putnam,  in  a  north-west  di- 
rection, five  hundred  and  ninety-eight  feet  above  the  river, 
peering  over  the  brow  of  the  hill  on  the  left,  and  soon  after, 
of  the  outworks  and  buildings  attached  to  the  United  States 
military  academy  at  West  Point.  The  hospital,  a  sub- 
stantial edifice  ot"  hewn  stone,  of  two  stories,  with  a  front 
towards  the  river  on  the  east,  a  piazza  and  wings,  is  the  first 
indication  of  our  proximity  to  this  celebrated  school,  and  of 
the  principal  edifices  that  soon  begin  to  appear  in  part  on  the 
terrace,  one  hund.    :  Td  eighty-eight  feet  above  the  river. 

On  the  face  of  thv?  '  beneath,  may  be  pointed  out  the 
descent  towards  the  gu^  m  of  Kosciusko,  the  Polish  patriot 
of  our  own  revolution,  in  whose  honor  the  cadets  of  this 
academy,  in  1828,  caused  a  neat  and  classical  marble  monu- 
ment to  be  erected,  as  a  memorial  of  the  gratitude  of  a  na- 
tion for  the  sympathy  of  a  foreigner  of  celebrity  towards 
us,  that  also  yielded  his  life  in  support  of  our  cause.  This 
cenotaph  stands  out  in  bold  relief  before  us,  guarded  by 
an  iron  railing,  on  the  very  verge  of  the  precipitous  hill, 
aiid  near  and  amidst  the  remains  of  the  revolutionary  field- 
works  erected  by  Gen.  Putnam  and  the  old  continental 
army  in  1776-7.  The  garden  referred  to,  and  the  clear 
boiling  spring  near  it,  enclosed  in  a  marble  reservoir,  \vith 
durable  and  ornamental  steps  leading  down  from  the  piain 
above,  with  an  arrangement  of  benches  on  a  projection  of 
the  rock  for  visiters,  may  be  seen  in  passing  by,  but  to  more 
satisfaction  by  those  landing  at  the  point. 

The  manner  and  style  of  natural  adornment  that  is  pre- 
eented  by  the  face  of  the  grounds  and  rocks  attached  to  this 
national  domain,  is  in  good  taste  in  every  respect,  of  art  as- 
sisting nature,  and  in  harmony  and  keeping  throughout,  and 
cannot  fail  to  impress  the  traveler,  when  he  observes  the  for- 
mation of  the  fantastic  rocks,  wild  moss  covered  crags,  luxu- 
riantly-garlanded pillars  and  creeping  shrubs,  and  the  cotta- 
ges and  hamletii  perched  on  the  slopes,  terraces,  and  crags,  in 
most  admired  confusion.  The  elegant  mansion  on  the  east  side 
of  the  river  was  erected  by  Capt.  Phillips,  and  is  one  of  the 
choicest  sites  on  the  Hudson,  and  commands  one  of  the  finest 


West  Point-^ Scenery. 


21 


panoramas  in  the  United  States,  and  is  now  owned  and  occu- 
pied by  Mr.  Kemble.       * 

We  have  now  arrived  at  the  termination  of  the  six  mile 
reach  before  referred  to,  and  must  stand  prepared  to  behold 
another  magical  transformation  of  the  bewitching  scenery  of 
the  river  as  the  boat  takes  a  sharp  turn  around  the  low  rucky 
projection  or  reef  on  the  wr "^t,  and  unfolds  one  of  the  love- 
liest views  in  the  world  to  the  enraptured  gaze  of  the  be- 
holder. The  lake-like  expansion  of  the  river,  with  the  steep 
front  of  the  lofty  mountain  that  here  faces  us,  called  the  Ctov3*s 
Nest,  rising  to  the  height  of  one  thousand  four  hundred  and 
ei|[ihteen  feet,  with  a  depression  on  its  top  for  the  nest,  giving 
a  fancied  resemblance  to  the  name  it  bears ;  together  with  the 
general  coup  d'oeil  of  the  mountains,  and  the  entire  panorama 
of  lesser  hills  and  rocky  eminences  or  projections,  completes 
the  magnificent  framing  of  this  truly  splendid  landscape,  that 
few  can  behold  for  the  first  time  without  a  feeling  of  the  moat 
rapturous  enjoyment. 

The  boat  comes  to  the  landing  at  West  Point  and  discharges 
and  takes  in  passengers,  and  allows  time  enough  for  the  pass- 
ing traveler  barely  to  sec  the  capital  hotel  on  the  brow  of  the 
hill,  and  perchance  to  regret  his  inability  to  tarry  there  for  a 
short  period,  and  test  the  capa'^ilities  of  the  location  and  of 
the  landlord,  both,  to  our  knowledge,  of  the  first  order  of  ex- 
cellence ;  the  view  from  the  observatory  on  the  top  of  the  hotel 
is  peculiarly  fine  in  all  its  parts,  but  especially  on  the  north, 
looking  down  upon  the  Hudson  and  towards  Newburgh,  ami 
the  remote  chain  of  Shawangunk  mountains  in  the  dim  blue 
distance  towards  the  north-west— the  plain  and  level  parade  of 
West  Point,  and  the  arrangement  of  the  public  edifices  for  the 
two  hundred  and  fifty  cadets,  and  the  private  residences  of  the 
commanding  officers  and  the  professors,  are  beneath  the  eye. 
After  the  yearly  examination  in  June,  the  cadets  are  en- 
camped on  the  plain  for  a  certain  period,  when  the  drills  and 
parades  are  worth  seeing.  The  academy  has  been  in  exis- 
tence since  1802,  and  is  under  congressional  and  executive 
parronage. 

Another  of  the  booms  and  massive  iron  chains  was  also  ex- 
tended across  the  river,  from  the  south  side  to  Const:  lion 
Island,  that  projects  from  the  north  shore;  the  battereu  sur- 
face of  the  rock  there  is  caused  by  the  artillery  or  target  firing 
for  ball  practice,  and  a  few  casualties  that  have  occurred  in  the 
corps,  are  enumerated  on  the  monumental  tablet  on  the  brow 


MHHi 


mmm 


r.   ■  1 


I' 
If-     J 


22 


Highland  Gusts — Cold  Spring. 


of  the  opposite  hill  on  the  west  shore.  A  portion  of  the  great 
chain  as  above  mentioned  is  still  to  be  seen  with  the  revolu- 
tionary relics.  The  head  quarters  of  Gen.  George  Washington 
while  in  this  neighborhood,  were  on  the  site  of  a  building  near 
an  indentation  of  the  shore,  and  at  the,  water's  edge,  a  little 
beyond  the  burying-ground  of  the  academy. 

In  receding  from,  or  advancing  towards  West  Point,  the 
finest  panoramic  view  is  beheld  of  all  the  public  buildings  on 
and  around  the  plain,  and  also  of  the  ruins  of  fort  Putnam, 
still  lording  it  over  the  plain  and  river  below. 

The  passage  through  the  Highlands  is  sometimes  perilous 
for  sloop  navigation,  owing  to  the  sudden  and  impetuous  gusts 
or  flaws  of  wind  that  come  pouring  down  between  the  lofty 
hills  and  deep  gorges  and  ravines,  with  hardly  a  moment's 
warning,  even  duiing  the  calm  pleasant  days  of  summer  and 
other  seasons,  upsetting  the  unwary  mariner,  and  involving 
the  crew  and  passengers  in  a  watery  grave.  Such  was  the 
fate  of  the  sloop  Neptune,  of  Newburgh,  on  the  twenty-third  of 
November,  1824,  near  Cold  Spring,  when  fifty-five  persons 
were  on  board,  twenty-six  of  whom  perished  in  four  minutes, 
and  the  sloop  was  engulfed  in  the  profound  abyss  below. 
The  dread  of  these  rapid  and  powerful  descents  of  air  from 
the  upper  rogions,  down  to  the  surface  of  the  river,  requires 
the  exertion  of  the  utmost  vigilance  on  the  part  of  the  navi- 
gators of  sloops  and  river  craft,  and  it  was  only  a  few  months 
i»ince  that  a  schooner  heavily  laden  with  coal  was  upset  near 
West  Point,  and  the  vessel  and  all  on  board  were  engulfed  in 
a  moment. 

The  village  of  Cold  Spring  is  prettily  situated  in  a  cove  or 
recession  of  the  east  bank  of  the  Hudson,  between  Constitu- 
tion Island  and  Bull  Hill,  and  has  a  good  landing,  and  a  road 
that  leads  to  the  interior  of  Putnam  county,  and  to  the  road  to 
Albany  and  New- York.  The  place  is  owned  by  the  wealthy 
Mr.  Kemble  and  others,  and  c^ 'Stains  the  elegant  country  seat 
of  Gen.  Morris,  editor  of  the  New- York  Mirror,  also  that  of  Mr. 
Kemble,  the  proprietor  of  the  West  Point  foundery,  that  is 
here  situated  on  a  stream  that  has  a  heavy  water  power,  flow- 
ing down  from  ihe  hills  in  the  vicinity,  with  a  water-fall,  im- 
mortalized by  the  feat  and  narration  of  Miss  Fanny  Kemble, 
see  vol.  2d,  p.  164.  The  foundery  has  two  blast,  three  air, 
and  three  cupola  furnaces,  a  boring-mill  for  lieavy  cannon, 
mortars,  cylinders,  lathes,  an  iron  water  wheel,  thirty-six  feet 
in  diameter,  besides  a  large  establishment  in  Beach  aad  Wash- 


r  I 


.  \. 


mm 


Went  Point  Founderij-^BuU  Hilt, 


n 


ington-strcets,  in  New-York,  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  for  con- 
structing sugar  mill  works,  steam  engines,  and  machinery, 
fitting  the  same  in  steamboats,  repairing,  &c.;  employing 
several  hundred  workmen  in  the  various  branches,  in  both 
places.  « 

The  boring  of  cannon  is  as  follows:  the  solid  mass  of  iron  in 
the  shape  of  18,  24,  33  and  42  pounders,  when  cast,  are  solid, 
and  weigh,  perhaps,  several  tons,  and  are  then  firmly  secured 
or  arranged  on  horizontal  pivots,  and  made  to  revolve  rapidly 
like  a  turning  lathe,  by  the  immense  water  wheel  connected 
with  them,  and  the  boring  augur  being  applied  to  the  proper 
end,  it  is  surprising  to  see  how  easy  and  simple  is  the  process, 
and  how  smooth  and  regular  is  the  bore.  Large  contracts 
for  cannon  have  been  taken  and  made  by  this  concern,  with 
llie  United  States  government;  and  the  regular  process  for  the 
trial  and  proving  of  the  strength  of  each  cannon  is  as  fol- 
lows: the  pieces  are  arranged  at  intervals,  heavily  loaded, 
and  double  shotted,  their  muzzles  pointed  to  a  ridge  of  earth, 
or  the  tarjiet  on  the  rock  at  the  base  of  the  mountain  across 
the  west  side  of  the  Hudson,,  and  then  fired  in  succession. 
The  echo  among  these  mountains  is  truly  grand  on  such  an 
occasion,  and  when  a  feu  de  joie,  or  salvo,  is  made,  by  dis- 
charging all  the  cannon  simultaneously,  the  effect  is  really 
•dorious,  and  seems  like  a  mighty  rushing  wind  or  earthquake, 
shaking  the  very  foundations  of  the  earth. 

The  writer  of  this  was  once  passing  by  on  board  a  sloop, 
rmd  floating  smoothly  along  with  the  tide  past  this  spot, 
daring  a  proof  trial  of  the  cannon  at  this  foundery,  when 
the  moment  we  had  barely  cleared  their  range,  wbiz-z-z 
Avhistled  a  heavy  cannon  ball  passing  within  a  few  inches  of 
our  stern,  and  of  the  quiet  children  and  passengers  on  deck, 
before  even  we  heard  the  heavy  hang  oi  the  discharge,  or 
turned  around  and  saw  the  smoke  passing  of!'  in  curling  vo- 
lumes; this  was  only  done  in  spoi%  to  test  the  accuracy  of 
their  aim,  to  see  how  ntar  they  could  come  to  us  without  hit- 
ting ;  this  might  have  been  sport  to  them,  but  not  so  to  those  on 
board  at  the  time.  If  the  least  flaw  or  defect  is  seen  in  the 
cannon,  the  piece  is  rejected,  much  to  the  loss  of  the  proprie- 
tors, that  have  to  allow  their  manufactures  to  undergo  this  se- 
vere ordeal,  before  they  will  be  accepted  and  paid  for  by  the 
government. 

Bull  Hill,  on  the  east  shore,  is  the  next  in  course,  and 


24         Break  Neck  and  Butter  llitlg-^Puttiam's  Rock, 

being  1,486  feet  high,  and  containing,  about  midway  be* 
tween  the  base  and  summit,  on  a  portion  of  the  profile 
edge  towards  the  river,  a  noted  mass  of  rock  resembling 
the  human  foreliead,  nose,  mouth,  and  chin,  with  a  tree  pro> 
jecting  almost  like  a  cigar  or  pipe,  is  never  passed  by  the 
old  voyagers  and  knowing  ones  without  being  pointed  out 
to  their  wondering  and  amused  friends,  and  one  must  be 
quick  in  observation  at  the  time,  and  accurate  in  the  di« 
rection  of  their  eyesight,  as  the  glimpse  is  but  for  a  minute 
or  two,  and  the  rapid  progress  of  a  steamer  soon  takes  you 
beyond  the  only  point  of  view,  when  the  illusion  vanishes, 
and  the  famoas  and  veritable  nose  of  St.  Anthony,  the  pre- 
siding Dutch  genius  of  the  Hudson  and  Mohawk,  is  gone. 

Break  Neck  Hill,  1,181  feet  high,  is  the  last  bluff  on  the 
east  or  right  shore  in  passing  up  the  river,  the  highest  peak, 
1,580,  being  a  mile  or  so  to  the  northeast,  and  seen  when  a 
few  miles  uj)  nearer  Newburgh  to  the  best  advantage. 

Butter  Hill,  the  last  of  the  highland  river  range  on 
the  west,  is  1,529  feet  high,  and  as  the  boats  usually  keep 
nearer  to  the  base  of  that  mountain,  it  forms  a  more  im- 
pressive and  overwhelming  sight  to  the  traveler  than  any 
other,  from  its  immense  and  toppling  masses  of  craggy 
rocks,  and  sweep  of  precipice,  especially  towards  the  south— 
the  eagle  is  often  seen  seeking  his  eyrie  amid  these  inacces- 
sible and  solitary  positions,  and  watching,  from  his  lofty 
post  or  alighting  place,  the  tinny  tribes  beneath  the  waves. 

The  curious  rock  found  so  beautifully  perched  on  the 
summit  of  this  mountain,  and  having  the  appearance  at  a 
distance  of  a  tent  or  marquee,  and  that  was  so  uselessly  and 
with  so  much  trouble  displaced  by  Gen.  i*utnam  in  a  rude 
vandal  and  wanton  spirit  of  destruction,  merely  to  see  it  tum- 
ble headlong  down  the  mountain  to  the  water's  edge,  where  it 
is  said  it  is  still  to  be  seen,  will  never  cease  to  be  regretted  by 
posterity  as  an  act  of  wicked  frivolity  and  wanton  de- 
struction totally  irreparable,  and  only  to  be  winked  at  or  over- 
looked as  an  indiscreet  act  of  a  brave  man,  and  his  follow- 
ers, or  fellow-soldiers,  but  to  be  frowned  upon  and  prevented 
at  all  future  times,  as  should  be  all  attempts  to  mar  or  dis- 
figure the  curiosities  or  wonderful  forms  and  arrangements 
of  nature.  Recently,  the  officers  and  crew  of  a  British 
man  of  war,  on  the  coast  of  Great  Britain,  undertook  and 
performed  very  much  such  an  useless  and  disgraceful  act, 
that,  when  known,  met  with  such  a  general  burst  of  indigna- 


PoUopeU  Island-^New  Windsor.  |ft 

tion  and  disgust,  that  the  British  government  instantly  ofo 
dered  the  same  crew  and  officers  to  replace  the  stone  on  the 
same  foundation,  although  it  was  like  the.labors  of  Sisyphus, 

Having  finished  the  Highlands,  we  pass  a  mass  of  rock 
near  the  channel  called  PoUopell  Island,  having  the  appear- 
ance of  the  top  of  a  sunken  mountain,  and  without  any  sign 
of  human  residence,  or  ownership,  or  occupation  even  by 
reptiles,  though  snakes  are  said  to  abound,  but  how  they  got 
there  no  one  can  tell,  and  few  can  stop  to  ascertain  the  fact. 
Like  Snakehill  in  Newark  meadows,  it  has  this  scare-crow 
rattle-snake  celebrity,  as  far  as  we  are  cognizant,  without 
the  least  cause  whatever  ;  if  any  one  doubts,  let  him  land 
and  explore. 

The  gorgeous  scenes  of  the  Highland  passage  being  fin- 
ished, the  observant  traveler  will  have  a  store  of  rich  re- 
collection and  resplendent  imagery  treasured  up  in  his  mind 
and  imagination,  that  will  reward  him  in  his  future  life 
when  brought  up  in  review,  aided  by  his  reading  and  reflec- 
tions and  ether  associations  connected  with  the  history  of 
America. 

Cornwall  and  Canierhury  are  two  villages  and  landings 
near  the  northern  base  of  Butter  Hill,  and  three  to  four  miles 
from  Newburgh,  that  are  the  first  settlements  that  appear  on 
the  left  when  we  leave  the  straits  of  the  Highlands,  and 
glide  into  the  expansion  of  the  Hudson,  between  JNewburgh 
and  Fishkill  and  New  Windsor.  J.>^. 

Moodenen,or  Murdenen,  or  Orange  Kill,  coming  from  tho 
interior  of  Orange  county,  near  Goshen,  joins  the  Hudson 
between  Canterbury  and  New  Windsor,  and  is  a  consider- 
able mountain  and  mill  stream. 

New  Windsor  is  a  considerable  landing-place,  and  has 
its  sloops,  docks,  and  regular  steamboats  plying  to  New- 
York  daily,  or  two  or  three  times  a  week,  similar  to  all  the 
towns  on  the  river  of  any  note,  and  here  also  is  a  humble- 
looking  old  Dutch-like  mansion  near  the  south  wharf,  that 
was  in  1774,  for  a  time,  the  temporary  head-quarters  of 
Washington. 

There  are  neat  residences  on  the  northern  slope  of  But- 
ter Hill,  also  on  the  hill  near  the  landing  of  New  Windsor, 
The  embowered  abode  on  the  opposite  low  shore,  on  a  round 
beautifully  wooded  verdant  spot,  is  the  country  seat  ofWm. 
Denning,  Esq.  ealled  by  himFresque  Isle.  The  modest-look- 
ing country  seat  and  extensive  grounds  of  John  P.  De  Wint, 

3 
I 


4'.- 


■*'■ 


31 


Aeicburgh—Peak  of  Fishkill  Mountain. 


Esq.  is  the  next  seen  on  the  east  side  above  Fishkill  landing, 
presenting  an  extensive  and  handsomely  wooded  front  to« 
wards  the  river,  with  a  complete  view  of  the  entrance  of 
the  Highlands  and  the  opposite  city,  *4u 


¥ 


!   i 


from  its  peculiar  situation  on  a  hill  presenting  a  very  steep 
acclivity,  is  completely  arrayed  to  the  view  of  the  passing 
traveler,  and  makes  quite  a  display  of  business,  and  has  its 
whale  ships  abroad,  and  its  own  ."Steamboats  and  sloops  in 
abundance,  besides  being  one  of  the  principal  landing  and 
stopping-places  for  all  the  steamboats  that  go  to  and  fro  be- 
tween New- York  and  Albany,  and  a  great  outlet  to  the  cen- 
tral and  western  parts  of  the  State  of  New- York,  and  having 
roads  and  stages  to  all  the  inland  towns  and  along  the  river; 
and  is  noted  also  for  its  ale.  The  communication  with  Dut- 
chess county  is  kept  up  by  a  ferry  across  to  Fishkill  landing, 
with  its  long  pier  reaching  out  to  the  channel.  The  Mattea- 
wan  cotton  factory  (Schenck's)  is  at  the  base  of  the  Fishkill 
chain  of  hills  near  the  mouth  of  the  creek,  and  has  a  valua- 
ble water-power,  mill,  &c.  and  is  a  well  managed  concern. 
There  are  two  highland  schools,  one  at  Cold  Spring,  on  the 
hill  near  the  foundery  before  mentioned,  and  the  other  here. 

The  geology  of  the  Highlands  is  primitive,  but  from  hence 
to  Troy  and  Waterford  it  is  transition,  and  we  are  now 
entering  upon  and  passing  along  its  borders,  as  denoted  by 
the  limestone  and  kilns  along  shore  for  several  miles.  The 
interior  of  Orange  and  Dutchess  counties  is  fertile,  and 
they  are  the  dairies  for  the  city,  especially  Goshen  in 
Orange  county. 

From  the  highest  peak  of  the  Fishkill  raHge,  in  plain 
sight,  parties  of  pleasure  that  assemble  from  the  vales  of 
the  neighboring  counties,  to  scale  the  arduous  ascent,  on 
foot  or  in  carriages,  have  a  transcendently  line  bird's-eye 
view  down  upon  the  Hudson  from  Newburgh  up  the  rivei* 
to  a  great  distance,  altogether  superior  in  this  respect  to  any 
other  place,  not  forgetting  even  the  Catskill  Pine  Orchard, 
that  can  be  faintly  discerned  in  the  remotest  distance,  and 
also  the  nearer  sweep  of  the  Shawangunk  range,  form- 


f'B  i  ih 


Low  Point— Hamburgh — Barnegat. 


27 


ins:  the  limit  to  the  west,  with  all  the  intermediate  country 
back  of  Newburgh  also  expanded  to  the  eye,  and  on  the  right 
hand  is  seen  in  the  far  distance  the  prominent  ranges  and 
peaks  in  Massachusetts  and  Vermont,  to  the  utmost  verge 
of  human  vision.  To  visit  this  peak,  land  at  Newburgh, 
cross  the  river  to  Fishkill  landing,  and  foot  it  up  the  hill  in 
two  hours  with  ease;  the  road  is  followed  ana  traced  up 
without  the  least  difficulty,  and  the  writer  accomplished  this 
in  the  time  mentioned,  and  was  not  molested  by  or  saw  the 
least  appearance  of  snakes  or  reptiles,  although  he  trudged 
about  considerably  along  the  range  towards  the  southwest, 
to  change  his  points  of  view.  Any  one  haviag  the  time  to 
devote  to  the  ascension  of  this  mountain,  will  have  seen 
this  part  of  the  Hudson  River  valley,  &c.  in  unequalled 
perfection. 

Proceeding  on  from  Newburgh  in  a  north-east  course  for 
six  miles,  in  a  handsome  reach  of  the  river,  we  pass  Low 
Point,  a  small  landing  on  the  east  with  a  few  buildings,  and 
in  a  few  minutes*  time  reach  a  bold  headland  or  rock  on  the 
west  shore,  Dans  commer  or  Dans  kamer  point,  and  face- 
tiously referred  toby  Knickerbocker,  as  "where Gov.  Stuy- 
vesant  in  his  voyage  up  and  landing  on  this  rock,  was  fright- 
ened out  of  his  wits  by  a  gang  of  merry  roistering  devils, 
freaking  and  curveting  on  a  huge  rock  projected  into  the 
river,  and  which  is  called  the  Duyvill  Dans  Kamer  to 
this  day." 

From  the  last  mentioned  point  the  river  assumes,  for  ten 
or  fifteen  miles,  a  due  north  and  south  course,  in  a  reach  of 
exquisite  beauty  towards  Poughkeepsie,  that  is  clearly  dis- 
covered in  the  distant  perspective. 

Hamimrgh  on  the  east  shore,  is  at  the  mouth  of  Wappin- 
ger  Creek,  a  good  mill  stream,  rising  about  thirty  or  forty 
miles  to  the  north-east,  and  pervading  the  county  of  Dutchess, 
and  having  much  fine  rich  interval  land  on  its  margin.  A 
mile  and  a  half  north  is  passed  a  neat  but  unobtrusive  house 
on  the  east,  the  former  residence  of  Georg3  Clinton,  gov- 
ernor of  this  State,  and  recently  of  Gen.  James  Tallmadge; 
and  on  the  west  shore  nearly  opposite,  we  see  a  new  and 
elegant  house  of  Mr.  Armstrong,  and  the  village  or  landing 
o[  Hampton,  and  one  and  a  half  miles  further  is  Jews^  Creek, 
the  paradise  of  the  brickmakers,  as  is  the  shore  hereabouts 
for  the  lime-burners. 

Barnegat  is  the  next  landing  on  the  east,  as  is  Milton  on 


M 


I 


ii  Paughkceptie—Hyde  Park. 

the  west,  and  as  we  approach  that  of  Poughkecpsie  on  ♦he 
east,  the  traveler  will  please  to  notice  the  singular  con- 
formation of  the  rocky  and  distorted  slaty  shores  that  rise 
in  a  threatening  and  dangerous  manner  near  the  landing,  in 
a  bold  rocky  bluff,  that  from  its  summit  commands  an  ex- 
tensive and  beautiful  reach  up  and  down  the  river,  and  of 
the  opposite  shores  in  New  Paltz. 

The  landing  at  Poughheepsie  is  se^^eniy-five  miles  from 
New- York,  and  sixty-nine  from  Albany,  and  has  th^  aspect 
of  a  stirring  business  place ;  there  are  several  extensive 
manufactories  (a  large  one  for  making  steam  locomotives) 
and  warehouses  along  the  river  front,  and  there  are  several 
ships  equipped  from  hence  on  whaling  voyages,  that  make 
it  upon  the  whole  a  good  business.  The  city  is  principally 
built  on  the  upper  part  of  the  hill,  one  mile  east  of  the  Hud- 
son, at  the  intersection  of  the  old  route  leading  to  Albany 
and  New- York,  and  to  the  States  oi  Massachusetts  and  Con- 
necticut. The  Dutch  made  their  inroads  upon  the  Indians 
in  this  vicinity  in  1735  ;  and  in  1788  the  New- York  conven- 
tion here  assembled  that  adopted  the  constitution  of  the 
United  States,  and  it  has  also  at  other  periods,  for  a  short 
time,  been  the  seat  of  the  State  Legislature.  The  number  of 
inhabitants  at  the  present  time  is  six  thousand  five  hundred. 
Fall  Creek  runs  through  the  north  part  of  the  city,  and  forms 
in  its  course  down  the  ravine,  cataracts  and  mill  seats.  The 
city  has  its  own  steam  and  tow-boats,  to  take  the  produce  of 
this  fertile  county  to  the  metropolis  with  speed  and  regular- 
ity, and  this  mode  is  fast  supplanting  the  old  tedious  system 
of  sloop  navigation  on  this  river. 

There  are  several  neat,  tid)r-looking  villas  or  country 
seats  adorning  the  river's  bank  in  the  vicinity  of  the  land- 
ing, and  at  intervals  along  for  several  miles,  as  we  ap- 
proach or  recede  from  the  landing ;  and  at  the  end  of  the 
before-mentioned  long  reach  or  meridional  north  and  south 
line,  we  find  ourselves  drawing  near  a  slight  inflection,  or 
divergence  in  the  course  of  \he  river,  called  Crum  Elbow y 
when,  as  we  pass  out  of  the  long  reach  that  the  interlocking 
of  the  opposite  shores  excludes  from  our  view,  we  see,  far 
ahead,  (if  we  occupy  at  this  moment  a  favorable  position 
on  the  upper  deck,)  the  first  dim  outline  in  the  blue  dis- 
tance, of  the  Catskill  mountains,  towering  aloft  like  a  thun- 
der cloud. 

We  are  now  passina:  the 


rough  castellated  front  of  Hyde 


.€*/r    ''\^ 


#' 

=  .'i^. 


.-%lli     lf^<        cJ.]lufi  ^^J!J<llU:il£\M.h\M». 


iJS.iw.;* 


Crum  Elbow  Creeh-^Scenery, 


29 


Park,  a  place  so  called,  that  for  three  or  four  miles  alongf 
the  road,  on  the  table  land  north  and  south,  contains  the 
elegant  country  seats  of  Mr.  Qiravdj  Mr.  Holbrooke  Judge 
Johnson,  Dr.  Allen,  and  that  of  the  late  Doctors  Bard  and 
Hosack,  Judge  Pendleton,  H  Wilkes,  and  others.  The 
avtnue  leading  past  this  strikingly  beautiful  series  of  farnw, 
and  the  residences  of  the  affluent  and  tasteful  owners,  is 
not  in  sight  of  the  steamboat  passengers  only  in  part ;  but 
a  morQ  superb  line  of  road,  for  the  same  distance,  does 
not  exist  in  this  State,  considering  the  auxiliaries  that 
come  into  view  before  the  traveler;  the  fine  avenue  and 
its  ornamental  forest  trees  of  the  maple,  locust,  &c.  and  the 
unrivalled  back  ground  of  the  landscape,  the  elevated  and 
cultivat<:d  and  woody  slopes  of  the  west  borders  of  the  Hud* 
son,  that  from  their  proximity  and  the  easy  angle  of  incli* 
nation,  have  a  most  graceful  appearance  in  contrast  with 
the  more  distant  towering  bacK  ground  of  the  blue  range 
of  the  Catskills,  in  the  north-west. 

Eighty  miles  from  New  York,  at  the  mouth  of  Crum  El- 
bow Creek,  on  the  east  shore,  is  the  landing-y  ace  of  Hyde 
Park,  and  a  few  rods  north,  we  see  the  splendidly-arranged 
house  and  grounds  of  the  late  Dr.  David  Hosack,  of  New- 
York,  and  purchased  by  him  of  Wm.  Bard,  Esq.  the  son  of 
the  late  Dr.  Samuel  Bard,  one  of  the  founders  of  the  New- 
York  Hospital— the  extent  of  the  land  purchased  by  Dr.  H» 
amounted  in  all  to  about  eight  hundred  acres,  and  the  ori* 
ginal  cost  to  him,  including  his  subsequent  improvements, 
was  $100,000.  He  had  the  grounds  laid  out  in  the  most 
tasteful,  attractive  style,  with  gravel  walks  following  the 
windings  and  undulations  along  the  verge  of  the  natural 
terrace,  overlooking  the  Hudson  river  directly  beneath, 
and  the  deep,  abrupt,  grassy  and  wooded  lawn  for  a  mile  or 
two,  and  ending  in  a  small  circular  temple  on  the  rocky  mar- 
gin of  the  Hudson.  The  waters  of  the  Crum  Elbow  Creek 
run  through  the  grounds,  and  are  so  disposed  as  to  add  to 
the  beauty  and  value  of  the  property.  Since  the  death  of 
the  late  proprietor  Dr.  H.  the  very  extensive  collection  of 
hot-house  plants  has  been  disposed  of  at  auction. 

The  next  in  rotation  of  the  pleasant  mansions  on  the  east 
shore,  is  that  of  Judge  Pendleton,  and  in  two  miles  that  of 
H.  Wilkes.  Nearly  opposite  a  rocky  island,  two  miles 
beyond,  on  the  east  shore,  at  eighty-five  miles  from  New- 
York,  in  the  township  of  Staatsbur ;,  is  the  residence  of  Mor- 

3* 


^mm 


mm 


\  I 


t 


■\ 


I 


V    1 


30      Mouth  of  the  WaaVdU — Delaware  Sf  Hudson  Canal. 

gan  Lewis,  Esq.  the  governor  of  the  State  in  1803 ;  and  near 
by  is  that  of  James  Duane  Livingston,  and  for  the  next  two 
or  three  miles  in  passing  along  by  the  Esopus  Meadows  or 
fiats,  we  see,  on  the  east,  the  mansion  of  J.  Thomson. 

On  the  west  shore,  just  before  arriving  at  a  bleak  rocky 
point,  Columbus,  ninety  miles  from  New- York,  the  place 
of  landing  for  Esopus,  four  miles  distant,  've  pass  the  ter- 
mination or  beginning  of  the  Shawangunk  range,  here 
called  Mombackus,  or  Indian  face,  that  extends  in  a  south- 
west direction  for  seventy  miles,  to  the  Delaware  River. 

The  Waalkill  River,  that  here  comes  into  the  Hudson  from 
the  south-west,  is  about  eighty  miles  long,  and  rises  in  the 
large  morass  or  overflown  tract  in  Orange  C  ounty,  known 
as  the  drowned  lands,  ten  miles  long  and  three  wide,  and 
follows  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  Shawaugunk  range  for 
many  miles,  and  receives  as  branches,  the  Shawangunk 
kill  and  the  Rondout  kiil^  and  up  the  valley  of  the  latter  pro- 
ceeds the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  from  its  termination 
at  Eddyvilk,  about  four  miles  to  the  south-west.  Bolton 
landing  is  about  one  mile  from  Columbus,  and  is  in  plain 
view  from  the  Hudson,  m  passing  the  point. 

The  Lackawana  coal  is  brought  to  Eddyville  from  the 
mines  in  Pennsylvania  by  rail-road  sixteen  miles  and  canal 
one  hundred  and  eight  miles.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that  the 
summit  level  of  the  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal,  at  a  morass 
where  the  Barkers  kill  (running  southwest  to  the  Nevisink 
and  Delav/are)  interlocks  v/ith  the  Sandberg  kill,  (that  runs 
north-east  to  the  Rondout  kill  and  the  Hudson,)  is  more  than 
four  hundred  feet  above  the  Hudson,  and  only  eighty  feet 
above  the  Delaware ;  thus  a  dam  across  the  Delaware  at 
Carpenter's  Point  or  Port  Lewis,  fifty-nine  miles  from  the 
Hudson,  at  the  west  border  of  Orange  County,  m'ght  be 
made  to  divert  the  entire  waters  of  the  Delaware,  in  a  north- 
east course  towards  the  valley  of  the  Hudson  River,  along 
the  western  base  of  the  Shawirgunk  mountains,  and  this, 
from  geological  appearances,  was  formerly  the  case.  There 
are  no  passage-boats,  but  coal-boats  plying  on  this  canal  as 
it  is  entirely  out  of  the  usual  route  for  pleasure  travelers, 
otherwise  the  scenery  on  the  canal  has  some  recommenda- 
tions. Though  it  may  be  possible  to  get  on  in  that  way, 
and  rough  it  to  the  head  of  the  canal  at  Honesdale,  and  then 
take  stage  for  Wilkesbarre,  or  Montrose,  or  Binghamton, 
and  then  branch  off  either  to  Urica,  and  the  Mohawk,  and 


trmim 


KU 


Kingiton — Country  Seatt. 


31 


I 


the  St.  Lawrence ;  or  on  the  west,  on  the  banks  of  the  Sus- 
quehanna to  Owego  and  up  to  Ithaca  and  down  the  Cayuga 
or  Seneca  Lake,  or  from  Owego  farther  west  by  the  valley 
of  the  Susquehannah  to  Tioga  Point,  thenc?  north-west  to 
Newtown,  Painted  Pos.,  Bath,  Batavia  and  I^iagara  Falls — 
^it  must  be  confessed,  a  wilder  route  could  not  be  selected, 
yet  at  Honesdale  and  Carbondale,  and  in  passing  the  main 
ridges,  there  would  be  much  to  gratify  the  eye  of  the  poet, 
the  philosopher,  and  the  landscape  painter. 

The  Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  is  thirty-two  to  thirty-six 
feet  wide,  and  four  deep, — ascent  five  hundred  and  thirty-five, 
and  descent  eighty  feet, — sixty-two  locks,  and  six  hundred 
and  fifteen  feet  lockage ; — cost  of  canal,  sixteen  thousand  dol- 
lars per  mile, — the  elevation  on  the  Moosic  mountain  it  over- 
come by  five  inclined  planes,  each  from  two  thousand  to  three 
thousand  feet  in  length, — single  track  and  cost  six  thousand 
five  hundred  dollars  per  mile. 

There  are  always  stages  on  the  dock  at  Columbut  to  con- 
vey passengers  *.o  Kingston,  three  miles  inland  to  the  aorth- 
west,  on  a  handsome  plain.  This  was  settled  by  the  Dutch 
as  early  as  1616 ;  it  is  the  county  town  of  Ulster,  and  was  de- 
stroyed by  fire  in  1777,  by  the  British  troops  under  Vaughan. 
The  court  house  is  a  stone  building,  and  cost  forty  thousand 
dollars.  The  other  public  and  many  private  buildings  are 
also  of  stone,  and  the  inhabitants  wealthy  and  Industrious. 
The  village  has  the  advantage  of  large  iotg  and  gardens,  and 
must  be  an  agreeable  residence.  The  flats  along  the  Esopus 
creek,  in  front  of  the  village,  are  rich  and  handsome.  There 
are  about  two  thousand  inhabitants. 

Opposite  to  Columbus  or  K'ngston,  is  the  landing  of  Rhime' 
heck,  (derived  from  river  Rhine  in  Germany,  and  Beckman, 
the  name  of  an  original  proprietor.)  The  village,  containing 
seventy  houses,  is  three  milee  in  the  interior,  on  the  Rhine- 
beck  fiats,  a  pleasant  tract,  and  easy  soil  for  cultivation.  For 
several  miles  above  Rhinebeck  the  soil  and  pspect  is  rather 
uninviting,  but  on  the  \/e8t  shore  We  are  constantly  regaled 
with  the  scenery  of  the  Catskilla  as  we  rapidly  advance,  until 
we  re»ch  tha  Itnoer  landing  of  Red  Haokf  ninety-eight  miles 
from  New- Verk,  with  the  handsome  residence  of  Capt.Lownd^i 
Brown  near  the  river,  and  of  Gen,  Armstrong  further  in  the 
rear,  on  the  hill ;  and  in  a  short  distance  north  of  the  dock  is 
that  of  John  Ri  Livingston,  Esq.  and  opposite  the  Magdalen 
Island  of  Dr.  Martin,  are  also  successively  those  of  ths  late 


/! 


S2 


Redhook — Ury-~H.  Barday,  Saugeriies. 


Maj.  Gen.  Montgomery,  John  C.  Sterena,  R.  S.  Livingston, 
and  J.  C.  Mongomery,  Esqrs.  and  of  Philip  Livings! on,  Esq. 
on  the  point  of  Saw  Kill  Creek. 

The  white  speck  seen  fur  several  milei>  on  the  CatskiH,  is 
the  famous  mountain  house,  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet  in 
elevation  above  tile  Hudson.       =  .  .  m  \f  -' ^v^^.  i^  iv 

Glasgow  village,  in  Ulster  County,  on  the  west,  is  ninety 
nine  miles  from  New- York,  abreast  of  the  upper  of  the  Mag- 
dalen Islands. 

.'  One  hundrert  miles  from  New- York,  and  forty-four  from  Al- 
bany, we  arrive  at  the  Redhook  upper  landing  en  the  eas.,  and 
the  delightful  residences  of  Robert  Tillotson,  E?q.  John  Swift 
Livingston,  Esq.  and  Mr,  Elmendnrff,  together  with  a  num- 
ber of  other  houses,  and  a  hotel ;  but  the  principal  settlement  is 
five  miles  to  the  east,  on  the  main  post-road  from  north  to 
south.  Observe  that  in  this  near  vicinity  is  Redhook  post-office, 
Redhook  landing  post-office,  and  Upper  Redhook  post-office, 
as  this  is  apt  to  create  confusion  in  mailing  letters. 

Esopus  Creek,  as  it  is  termed  on  the  maps,  but  richly  deserv- 
ing the  name  of  river^  comes  into  the  Hudson  on  the  west 
shore,  nearly  opposite  the  landing  last  mentioned.  It  rises 
in  the  north-west  part  of  Ulster  county,  has  a  south-east  and 
then  a  north-east  course  past  Kingston,  and  then  nearly  north 
to  Saugkrties  village,  its  entire  length  being  sixty  miles,  with 
much  rich  land  on  its  margin,  and  has  a  heavy  water  power 
concentrated  within  four  miles  of  its  mouth,  principally  bC' 
longing  to  Hewy  Barclay,  Esq.  of  Ury,  the  country  seat  so 
named,  opposite  upper  Redhook. 

Vew  manufacturing  villages  in  the  Northern  States  are 
equal  to  Saugeriies,  or  have  a  more  solid  basis  of  prosperity^ 
a  never-failinsr  water  power,  derived  from  the  southern  slope 
of  the  lofty  Catskills,  united  with  ample  capital,  judiciously 
directed  in  the  manufacture  of  paper,  cottons,  woollens,  bar- 
iron,  white  lead,  and  many  others.  The  principal  fall  at  this 
village  is  fifty  feet  in  height,  formed  by  the  union  of  art  and 
nature,  so  directed  as  to  back  the  water  for  three  miles,  thus 
creating  a  lovely  lake  to  within  a  mile  or  so  of  the  great  falls 
of  Esopus,  and  a  combination  of  attract!'  scenery,  highly 
pleasing  to  the  traveler  of  laste,  and  to  the  citizens  from  the 
south  desiring  a  residence  for  the  summer  months.  There  are 
steam-boats  and  tow-boats  belonging  to  this  place,  and  every 
facility  for  reaching  this  desirable  village,  and  enjoying  the 
rides  among  the  stupendous  ghauts,  or  deep  gorges  of  the 


>      Livingston  Manor — Bristol.  •  $/$■ 

Catskills,  that  within  ten  to  fiAeen  miles  attain  their  greatest 
elevation  and  beauty,  and  are  beheld  with  the  most  impressivo 
eifect.     The  population  of  Saug^erties  is  four  thousand. 

The  Manor  of  Livingslen^  in  1684-5-6,  was  granted 
hy  the  king  of  England  to  Robert  Livingston,  a  member  of 
hie  privy  council,  and  embraced  a  front  of  ten  miles  and  a 
half  on  the  Hudson,  twenty  anxl  a  half  miles  back  inland,  and 
foufteen  on  the  eastern  border,  making  two  hundred  and 
eighty-eight  square  miles:  with  baronial  privileges,  a  tract 
equal  to  a  small  German  principality.  It  is  at  present  owned 
by  several  heirs  of  the  original  proprietors,  (with  the  excep- 
tion of  Gerniantown,  a  tract  of  six  thousand  acres,  conveyed 
in  1710,  by  an  arrangement  with  Queen  Anne,  to  a  number  of 
Palatines  who  had  served  in  her  armies  in  Germany,)  and  now 
forms  the  townships  of  Clermont,  Livingston,  Taghkanick, 
Ancram,  and  Germantowii. 

The  old  Livingston  manor-house  is  situated  on  the  east- 
bank  of  the  Hudson,  near  Rolef  Jansen's,  or  Ancram  Creek, 
ten  miles  above  Redhook  upper  landing ;  but  the  splen- 
did residences  of  Robert  L.  Livingston  and  Edward  P.  Li- 
vingston, Esqrs.  the  sons  of  the  late  chancellor  Livingston, 
(minister  to  France,  who  made  the  negociation  for  the  pur- 
chase of  Louisiana  with  Napoleon,  for  fifteen  millions  of  dol- 
lars,) are  situated  nearly  opposite  to  Saugerties,  and  their  diver- 
sified grounds  and  lawns,  that  command  the  fin  -t  scenery 
on  the  Hudson,  extend  for  miles  on  the  borders  oi  the  rivei , 
and  are  in  every  respect  princely  abodes.  his  family  are, 
and  have  always  been  on  the  popular  side  nk  political  mat- 
ters, and  in  unison  with  the  old  republican  party,  and  of  high 
estimation  in  the  national  and  state  governments. 

Brislolf  on  the  west  shore,  is  a  small  village  and  landin/rfor 
sloops,  two  miles  above  Saugerties ;  and  opposite,  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  river,  begins  a  series  of  flats,  or  low  mud  islands, 
that  extend  up  for  two  or  three  miles,  past  Trumpores  land- 
ing, the  next  above  Bristol.  Oak  Hill,  the  residence  of  Har- 
man  Livingston,  Esq.  next  is  seen  on  the  east  shore,  conspicu- 
ously on  the  hill  sduth  of  the  landing,  and  the  convenient 
dock  and  warehouse  for  storing  country  produce ;  and  on  the 
opposite  shore,  as  wc  draw  near  the  landing,  we  pass  a  creek 
with  a  very  serpentine  channel  winding  through  the  marsh 
and  soon  after  arrive  at 


■*^'--it'' 


M 


Catshill—Pine  Orchard — Clove  Road. 


l\ 


I. 


,/ 


Wm'y'k'"'^'    -■'^..' 


■■■■-   :i  ;i 


CatskilJ, 


on  the  west  shore,  one  hundred  and  eleven  miles  from  New- 
York.  This  has  long-  been  an  important  landing-place  for 
visiters  to  the  great  hotel  t>Q  the  table  rock  of  the  CatskiDs^ 
known  as  the  Pine  Orchard,  and  frequented  by  thousands  jf 
travelers.  Carriages  are  always  in  waiting  on  the  dock  to 
accomtnodate  those  that  wish  to  ascend.  Travelers  can  pro- 
ceed by  the  railroad  to  Canajoharie^  a  town  on  the  Erie  Canal 
and  banks  of  the  Mohawk  River,  about  seventy  miles  in  a 
north-west  direction  up  tl^ie  valley  of  the  Catskillriver^through 
Green  and  Schoharie  counties,  and  over  and  along  the  north- 
eastern slopes  of  the  mountains,  saving,  perhaps,  a  little  time 
and  distance,  but  losing  the  view  of  Hudson,  Albany,  and 
Troy,  and  of  the  delightful  rail-road  route  along  the  Mohawk,, 
from  Schenectady  to  the  intersection  of  Canajoharie.      v  i 

Stages  for  the  west  leave  Catskill  daily  for  Binghamton, 
Owego,  and  Ithaca,  and  thence  down  the  Cayuga  L'^ke  for 
forty  miles,  and  by  stage,  canal,  or  rail  road,  to  Geneva,  Ca- 
nandaigua,  Rochester,  Lockport,  Lewislown,  or  Buffalo. 

Besides  the  view  from  the  table  rock  before  alluded  to, 
there  are  other  inducements  for  travelers  disposed  for  a  time 
to  seek  out  gratification  and  amusement,  to  visit  the  falls  and 
other  spots  that  the  magic  touches  of  Cole  the  artist  have 
brought  to  the  public  admiration ;  and  as  coaches  run  regu- 
larly to  and  from  the  mountain,  and  are  so  adjusted  as  to 
meet  the  steam>boats  at  various  hours,  and  also  to  enable  the 
public  to  visit  the  different  falls,  there  is  every  facility  afforded 
the  traveler ;  the  price  is  one  dollar  to  ascend  to  the  moun- 
tain house — the  time  required,  about  four  hours,  distance 
twelve  miles — but  half  the  time  suffice;?  *o  return.  The  road 
Tor  nine  miles  from  the  landing  is  un*  v«;n,  and  for  the  last 
ihree,  a  steep  ascent  in  a  zigzag  course,  doubling  on  th© 
track,  that  soon  places  the  traveler  in  a  peculiar  position,  ra- 
ther trying  to  the  nerves  of  the  timid. 

The  Clove  road  that  ascends  the  CatskilU,  a  mile  or  two 

uth  of  the  road  to  the  Pine  Orchard,  should  by  all  means  be 
seen  as  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  vicinity.  It  enters  upon  the 
ascent  where  the  Kauterskill  einerges  into  the  lip-ht  of  day^ 
from  the  deep  and  overshadowed  ravine,  where  >.hk  raginjjf 


r 


Scenei-y  up  ike  CaUkilU, 


35 


nnd  force  of  the  (umulluous  waters  !iave  thrown  large  mnsfles 
of  rock  into  every  imnginable  and  confused  form,  pile  on  pile, 
nmong  wliich,  the  tumbling  waters  are  sometimes  seen  burst- 
ing forth  from  narrow  channels,  or  crevices,  or  swelling  and 
boiling  up  from  some  syphon  or  upper  source,  or  forming  cas- 
cades of  an  endless  variety  of  forms,  and  giving  forth  sounds 
of  its  raging  and  uncontrolled  power,  that,  as  the  traveler 
follows  up  the  arduous,  and  endless,  and  truly  fatiguing  as- 
cent, becomes  less  and  less  audible,  as  the  road  takes  the  other 
side  of  the  gorge,  by  crossing  a  rude  bridge.  .     >  ^       > 

Several  tremendous  precipices  of  sandstone  rock,  of  seve- 
ral hundred  foet  in  perpendicular  height,  strike  one  with  awe 
and  delight, — and  when  nearly  at  the  end  of  the  ascent,  the 
traveler  will  pause  and  look  back  to  the  east,  through  the  nar- 
row vista  of  the  towering  rocky  masses  of  the  mountain  on 
either  hand,  at  a  plunging  and  rapid  sweep  of  the  eye,  at  the 
distant  fields  and  farms  far  down  in  the  vale  below,  an**  be- 
yond the  Hudson,  on  the  east  shore,  well  in  the  interio:',  to- 
wards the  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut  lines,  the  diver- 
sified colors  of  the  cleared  and  cultivated  lands,  green  lots, 
nnd  the  yellow  harvest  ripening  for  the  sickle  and  the  scythe, 
with  all  the  iiues  of  the  fading  distance,  and  at  the  deep  and 
full  green  of  the  American  forest  predominating  over  the 
landscape,  the  whole  presented  at  such  a  visual  angle  and  as 
distinctly  exhibited  in  its  details,  as  a  vast  map,  or  page,  in 
the  sublime  volume  of  nature. 

The  entire  view,  from  the  twilight  dimness  of  objects  in 
the  gorge,  and  the  concentration  of  the  eager  gaze  of  the 
behoWer,  and  the  brillinnt  lighting  «p  of  the  remoter  squares 
and  divisions  of  the  farms,  dwindled  into  diminutive  size 
nt  the  end  of  this  grand  gallery  of  nature,  seems  of  it- 
self to  be  a  perfect  picture,  set  with  a  most  gigantic  and 
appropriate  frame,  and  underneath  the  blue  canopy  of  the 
o'er-arching  expanse  of  heaven,  is  in  admirable  keeping 
and'harmony.  When  resuming  the  advance,  and  attaining  to 
the  summit  of  the  gap^  in  a  short  distance  there  is  a  clear 
ing  and  a  log-house  or  two,  and  you  can  begin  your  view 
west'-  ard  ;  the  extreme  summit  of  the  round  top  still  appears 
to  be  at  a  toilsome  distance.  The  regiJents  near  this  spot  are 
accustomed  to  conduct  up  those  seekmg  their  aid  to  attain 
the  crowning  summit  of  the  Catskills,  three  thousand  eight 
hundred  and  fifty  six  feet  high.  While  here,  get  the  guides'to 
conduct  you  to  the  ravine  near  by,  where  the  western  branch 


WHF 


i 


Scenery  of  the  CaUkiUi, 

of  the  Kauterskill  presents  a  most  beautiful  cascade  into  th« 
deep  and  narrow  amphitheatrical  walls  of  a  secluded  recep- 
tacle, hollowed  out  and  excavated  into  pools  or  reservoirs, 
most  admirable  for  a  pur")  clear  bath,  where  nought  but  » 
small  opening  like  a  sky-light  admits  a  sufficiency  of  expo- 
sure to  exhibit  the  exquisite  drapery  that  clothes  the  steep 
sides  and  the  encircling  rim  or  verge  of  this  sanctuary 
of  nature,  that  must  be  sought  and  won  with  considerable 
toil  and  muscular  exertion,  and  that  so  richly  repays  the 
explorer.  This  is  one  among  a  number  of  the  hitherto  se- 
cret and  hidden  beauties  of  nature,  that  man  has  seldon» 
beheld  in  this  portion  of  the  mountain ;  others  exist  farther 
to  the  interior.  >i./ • ;,  , 

A  week  or  a  month  of  the  long  days  in  June,  July,  or 
August,  will  not  exhaust  the  resources  of  pleasure,  but  a  bare 
day  or  two  is  but  seldom  awarded,  and  that  is  given  merely 
to  the  Pine  Orchard  and  the  Kauterskill,  that  we  shall  now 
describe,  premising  that  the  writer  once  visited  them  from 
below,  by  taking  a  lateral  road,  on  the  north  of  Clove  Road, 
excavated  for  the  red  paint  or  pigment,  the  oxide  of  iron, 
and  clambering  up  the  steep  ravine,  from  crag  to  crag,  and 
over  the  dashing  brook,  and  slippery  trunks  of  fallen  trees,  or 
moss-covered  rocks,  until  the  position  was  at  length  attained, 
that  presents  the  two  leaps  of  the  upper  Kauterskill  falls  in 
one  upward  view.  > 

The  hotel  on  the  table  rock  was  built  by  the  citizens  of 
Catskill,  and  cost  twenty- two  thousand  dollars;  it  is  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  feet  in  length,  four  stories  high,  with  a  piazza 
extending  across  the  front,  and  a  colonnade.  There  are  about 
six  acres  of  naked  rock  surface  around  the  hotel,  with  ample 
room  for  outbuildings.  The  hotel  is  placed  at  a  safe  distance 
from  the  verge  of  the  sheer  descent  of  the  precipice,  to  al- 
low coaches  to  draw  or  drive  up  in  front,  to  deliver  and  re- 
ceive passengers,  and  for  visiters  to  promenade  about,  and 
peer  over  the  dizzy,  toppling  crags,  into  the  deep  valley  un« 
der  the  eye  of  the  spectator,  here  at  an  altitude  of  two  thou- 
sand five  hundred  feet  above  the  Hudson,  and  fifteen  hundred 
above  the  open  meadow  at  the  immediate  base  of  the  precipi- 
tous descent.  The  Hudson  river  appears  distinctly  at  inter- 
vals, for  forty  or  fifty  miles,  dotted  over  with  numerous  isl- 
ands, and  the  white  sails  of  the  river  craft,  and  the  steamers, 
with  their  long  trains  and  curling  volumes  of  smoke,  that  may 
be  easily  distinguished  by  the  naked  eye,  urging  their  power- 


.* 


Scenery  of  the  Catikilt$. 


37 


fu\  course  over  the  placid  surface  of  the  river,  that  in  the  f 
morning  sun  gleams  brilliantly  and  dazzles  the  eye  with  its  ^ 
eiTulgence.  The  cities  of  Catskiil,  Hudson,  and  Poughkecpsie 
also  are  plainly  seen,  and  minor  towns,  with  their  distant  vil- 
lage (tpires.  The  beholder  is  impressed  at  once  with  the  pre- 
dominance of  the  native  forest  trees,  and  the  deep  verdure  of 
their  foliage,  that  yet  rules  over  the  largest  extent  of  the  sur- 
face of  old  mother  earth,  in  the  entire  length  and  breadth  of 
the  land,  with  a  scattering  of  farms,  and  cleared  lands,  and 
evidences  ot  the  industry  of  man.  The  eastern  bank  of  the 
Hudson,  and  the  entire  sweep  of  the  landscape,  frtr  retreating 
into  the  interior,  towards  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  and  Con- 
necticut, embracing  one  hundred  miles  from  north  to  south, 
and  fifty  miles  from  east  to  west,  is  completely  unfolded  to 
the  view,  developing  a  large  portion  of  the  Hudson  river  val- 
ley, and  presented  at  the  least  angle  of  inclination  or  slope, 
towards  ns,  environed  with  a  splendid  outline  or  frameof  moun- 
tains, with  the  Taughkannock  peak,  indicating  tho  north-west 
corner  of  Connecticut,  near  the  New- York  and  M.issachusetta 
line,  in  the  south-east, — the  well  recognized,  elevated  sierra 
of  Saddle  Mountain,  near  Williamstown,  in  Massachusetts,  to 
the  north-east,  and  some  prominent  peaks  of  the  Green  Moun- 
tains in  Vermont,  on  the  extreme  north  ok  left;  and  on  the 
right  or  south,  we  distinguish  the  blue  outline  of  the  Fishkill 
range,  and  of  the  highlands  beyond  Nr.wburgh.  The  coup 
d'ceil  is  grand, — the  o'ertopping  ridges  behind  the  hotel,  on 
the  southwest,  west,  and  north-west,  boind  the  view  to  a  lim- 
ited extent,  but  are  themselves  objects  of  great  magnificence, 
and  are  yet  seen  in  all  their  pristine,  or  native  wildness,  rude- 
ness, &tc.  The  small  peak  that  rises  on  the  south,  near  by, 
is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  higher  than  the  hotel,  and 
is  a  geological  study  of  itself,  composed  of  pudding-stone, 
sand-stone,  &c.  and  gives  an  extension  to  the  view  towards 
Albany,  and  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  table  rock  and  hotel. 

The  remains  of  the  Witidham  turnpike,  made  some  twenty 
or  thirty  years  since,  across  this  mountain,  may  ho  followed 
towards  the  west,  passing  the  two  lakes  that  are  two  thousand 
feet  above  tide  water,  one  mile  long,  and  form  the  cascade  of 
the  Kautorskill  Falls,  that  will  now  be  described  : — the  lakes 
arc  repulsive  in  their  aspect,  the  one  on  the  north;  with  broad 
lobed  leaved  aquatic  plants  floating  on  the  surface,  and  bor- 
dered by  tangled  shrubbery, — but  the  other  has  a  cleaner 
margin,  and  the  waters  of  both  are  connected  by  a  brook 

4 


I 


i\ 


99 


(Scenery  of  the  CaiskOts. 


passing  under  the  bridge.  The  supply  of  water  is  small,  and 
preserved  with  care,  and  lei  ofT  for  hire,  to  increase  the  nnasa 
of  the  fall  when  a  party  of  strangers  arrives.  Following  s 
winding,  stumpy,  rugged,  and  at  times  muddy  road,  for  about 
a  mile  through  the  woods  to  the  south-west,  we  arrive  at  an 
opening  of  six  hundred  feet  in  circumference,  that  yawns  be-> 
fore  us  to  a  profound  depth,  and  arrests  our  progress  by  its 
deep  semi-circular  or  amphitheatrical  aperture  or  form,  open 
only  towards  the  south  or  south-west,  and  exposing  the  deep 
ravine,  richly  clothed  round  with  trees,  and  varied  with  fo- 
liage of  different  colors,  retreating  steeply  down  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  or  more  towards  the  clove  road,  and  from  the  foot  of 
the  ravine  west  of  the  clove,  rises  in  one  majestic  curtain  or 
slope,  extending  a  mile  or  two  heavenward,  the  full  body  of 
the  vast  round  top^  that  fills  an  angle  of  thirty  or  forty  degree* 
above  the  level  of  the  eye  of  the  beholder,  filling  him  with 
admiration  at  the  noble  grandeur  of  the  effect.  The  run,  or 
outlet  that  discharges  the  water  of  the  two  small  lakes,  rushes 
across  the  mass  of  sand-stone  composing  the  precipice,  and 
leaps  into  the  gulf;  and,  exhausting  itself  in  foam  and  spray, 
falls  upon  the  debris  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet,  is 
again  collected  on  the  floor  of  the  rock,  and  within  a  short 
distance  takes  another  plunge  of  seventy-five  feet,  and  fol- 
lows the  dark,  and  over-arched,  and  deeply-shaded  depth  and 
windings  of  the  ravine  to  the  valley  below. 

After  studying  this  grouping  of  the  mountains  and  ravine 
from  above,  the  traveler  should  by  all  means  follow  the  cir- 
cuitous path  that  will  conduct  him  down  about  ninety  feet, 
and  then  take  a  horizontal  direction,  passing  under  the  rock 
into  a  serai- cave  behind  the  v.'ater-fall,  with  the  vast  rock 
above  that  supports  the  failing  sheet  of  water,  and  impends 
over  as  the  stooping  and  groping  explorer  walks  on  the 
crumbled  debris  of  the  red  rock,  while  the  water  is  faUing 
twenty  or  thirty  feet  clear  of  the  standing-place,  and  forms  a 
curtain  of  snowy  spray  in  front  of  this  deep  recess,  that  serves 
partly  to  veil  the  deep  blue  sky,  and  adds  much  to  the 
charms  of  this  fearful  and  wonderful  place ;  even  the  rain- 
bow at  certain  times  appears  from  above,  floating  on  the  bo- 
som of  the  mists  of  the  falling  spray  for  a  moment,  vanishing 
and  circling  away.  Those  that  omit  to  view  this  fall  from  be- 
low lose  much  that  will  cause  regret. 

The  invigorating  pure  air  that  is  inhaled  at  the  mountain 
house,  and  the  exhilarating  effect  of  the  various  excursions 


Scenery  of  the  CatahilU— Hudson. 


39 


«nd  promenades  that  are  usually  taken  while  there,  have 
traced  up  and  restored  to  health  many  an  invaliU  that  no 
other  means  could  have  recruited. 

Not  the  least  of  the  gratifications  derived  by  an  observant 
person,  or  a  lover  of  nature,  from  a  visit  to  this  mountain  eyrie, 
the  most  remarkable  and  elevated  in  the  United  States,  are  the 
changes  in  the  atmosphere,  produced  by  clouds,  fogs,  thunder- 
storms, and  the  charming  and  sublime  shadows  and  lights 
passing  rapidly  over  the  plain  ;  also  the  appearances  pro- 
duced by  the  early  morning  sun,  or  evening-  twilight,  or  the 
softer  radiance  of  full  moon,  or  by  the  clearing  off'  and  rising 
of  the  morning  mist  from  the  plains  below;  or  what  is  still 
belter,  to  be  so  fortunate  as  to  witness  the  gathering  of  a 
heavy  thunder-storm,  and  to  see  the  lowering  volumes  of  dark 
vapors  come  sweeping  over  the  v/estern  crest  of  the  moun- 
tain, bringing  in  its  train  the  forked  lightning,  the  loud  thun- 
der, and  the  pelting  hail,  shaking  the  firm  foundations  aiid  re- 
verberating among  the  echoes  of  the  everlasting  hills  ;  and 
then  to  see,  as  the  writer  has  done,  the  surcharged  clouds 
subsiding  and  sinking  into  the  valley,  and  then  again  to  see 
the  bright  flash,  and  hear  the  roar  of  the  storm  that  is  raging 
beneath  your  feet,  while  over  your  zenith  all  is  clear  and 
calm  as  a  summer's  morning,  and  you  see  beyond  the  range 
of  the  storm,  at  ten,  twenty,  or  forty  miles  distance,  the  clear 
powerful  rays  of  the  sun  pouring  with  unmitigated  intensity 
upon  a  tract  parched  with  drought;  and  then  to  finish  and 
grace  the  scene,  as  the  atmosphere  is  clearing  away,  pillars 
of  rainbow-hues  are  seen  in  the  east  on  the  face  of  the  re- 
treating cloud,  and  all  is  hushed,  and  the  refreshed  face  of 
nature  once  more  assumes  its  wonted  appearance.  A  traveler 
in  Europe  present  at  the  time,  acknowledged  that  a  scene 
equal  to  that  in  sublimity  had  only  once  gratified  him, — Mont 
Blanc  at  sun-set. 

From  Catskill  we  find  our  boat  shaping  its  course  to  the 
north-east,  past  a  large  marshy  island,  and  approaching  a  bend 
of  the  river  near  the  foot  of  Mount  Merino  on  the  east  shore. 
After  rounding  the  hill,  the  city  of  Hudson  appears  before  us, 
at  one  hundred  and  sixteen  miles  from  New-York,  and  twenty- 
eight  from  Albany,  with  its  lofty  ware-houses  at  the  landing, 
and  ships,  steam-boats,  and  sloops,  giving  evidence  of  capital 
and  enterprize  that  here  exist,  and  that  has  sent  out  many 
ships  on  distant  whaling  voyages  to  the  south  seas.  The  city 
h  principally  on  the  summit  of  the  hill,  sixty  feet  above  the 


40 


Hudson-^ Athens— Kinderhook  Point.,  SfC. 


landing,  and  is  eeen  to  better  advantage  when  the  steam-boat 
is  two  or  three  miles  out  in  the  river.  There  are  seven  thoa- 
«and  inhabitants  in  Hudson,  and  it  is  tho  capital  of  Columbra 
County,  and  a  port  of  entry  and  the  head  of  ship  navigation 
for  large  vessels.  A  branch  rail-road  extends  across  thiti  State 
and  Massachusetts  to  Boston,  and  travelers  intending  to  visit 
iho  Shaker  Village  at  New  Lebanon,  thirty  miles  to  the  north* 
east,  will  land  here,  and  proceed  in  the  raii-road  cars,  at 
seven  o'clock  in  the  morning,  or  in  private  conveyances  by 
applying  at  the  inns. 

There  is  considerable  water-power  in  the  neighborhood,  and 
much  of  manufacturing  industry  near  Hudson.  Its  settlement 
commenced  in  }784,  by  Thomas  and  Seth  Jenkins,  of  Provi- 
dence, and  twenty-eight  others,  and  it  had  a  most  rapid  growth 
for  a  time,  too  rapid,  in  fact,  to  last,  for  in  two  years  it  had 
fifteen  hundred  inhabitHnts,  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  dwell- 
ing houses.  Prospect  Hill  is  at  the  east  of  Warren-street,  that 
has  a  gentle  ascent  of  one  mile,  and  terminates  in  a  public 
square,  academy,  water-works,  &c.  Other  streets  are  laid 
out  parallel,  and  the  lots  are  fifty  by  one  hundred  twenty  feet. 
It  is  compact  near  the  river.  There  are  several  churches, 
banks,  JHil,  court-house,  &c.   Lead  ofcs  have  been  found  here. 

Athens,  on  the  west  shore  opposite  to  Hudson,  is  in  Greene 
County,  and  has  some  genteel  private  residences,  and  some 
participation  in  the  river  business  and  sloop  navigation,  &c. 
and  communicates  with  its  rival  by  a  canal  cut  through  the 
mud  flat,  to  avoid  a  circuit,  and  boats  pass  to  and  fro. 

Four  miles  above  Hudson  on  the  east,  Kinderhook  Creek, 
or  Abraham's  Creek,  alias  Ciaverack  Creek,  comes  in,  and  at 
its  mouth  there  are  cotton  factories,  paper  mills,  &c.  and  a  pe- 
culiarity in  the  landscape  of  most  striking  appearance;  and 
opposite  is  a  prominent  high  rocky  point,  one  hundred  and 
twenty  mdes  from  New-York,  called  Four  Mile  Point,  ai>d 
Raid  to  be  the  actual  head  of  ship  navigation.  The  letrospec- 
tive  view  down  the  river  from  this  towards  Hudson  is  truly  fine, 
wiih  Mounts  Merino,  Bancroft,  and  Prospect  in  the  back 
ground,  or  as  adjuncts.  The  shoals  and  obstructions  from  t  his 
to  Albany  are  increasing  every  year,  in  spite  of  the  puny  efforts 
of  man  to  counteract,  and  eventually,  measures  will  have  to 
be  adopted  to  extend  the  Erie  Canal  thus  far. 

Slaats  Point  is  next  passed  on  the  east  above  the  Creek, 
and  Bonnett's  Point  and  Island,  and  iv.  one  mile.  Little  Nutter- 
Hook,  and  Nutter  Hook ;  and  across  to  M'ett  shore  Coxtukie 


StaaVs  Point — Kinderhook—Ncw  Baltimore— S^c.        41 

landings,  and  three  islands,  (village  one  mile  back,)  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-three  miles  from  New- York,  and  an  impor- 
tant, buatling  little  place,  with  sloops,  ship-yards,  or  rather 
for  building  steam,  canal,  and  tow-boats,  and  a  hauling-up 
place.  Three  hundred  feet  above  the  Hudson,  is  a  boulder  of 
Hypersthene,  of  one  hundred  tons,  like  those  in  the  dykes  in 
Essex  County. 

Stuyvesant  or  1  inderhook  landing,  is  on  the  east,  {Kinder- 
hook  five  miles  east,)  at  the  mouth  of  Coxackie  Creek,  one 
hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  from  New-York. 

Kinderhook  was  settled  by  the  Dutch  and  Swedes,  and  the 
name  originates  from  Children's  comer  or  point,  so  called 
from  the  number  of  children  belonging  to  a  Swedish  family 
that  anciently  lived  on  a  point  of  land  half  a  mile  above 
the  upper  landing.  This  is  said  to  have  been  the  birth-place 
of  M.  Van  Buren,  the  President  of  the  United  States. 

Many  Islands  occur  from  here  to  Albany  and  Waterford, 
causing  the  channel  to  be  very  crooked  and  variable,  but 
adding  to  the  beauty  of  the  trip. 

New  Baltimore^  one  hundred  and  twenty-nine  miles,  hag  a 
dock  and  store- house,  and  one  sloop  to  New- York  once  a 
week.  The  water  is  eleven  feet  deep;  to  this  place  tide  rises 
three  to  four  and  a  half  feet. 

HannekaVs  Killy  or  Cock  Crowing  Creek,  is  on  the  west 
side,  opposite  a  group  of  islands. 

Coeymans,  and  CoeyraHns  Kill,  one  hundred  and  thirty-two 
miles,  is  in  Albany  County,  and  evidently  an  ancient  and  ve- 
nerable place,  with  its  store-houses,  mills,  &c. 

Schodack,  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles,  village  and 
landing  in  Rensselaer  County.  ^   .,  .  :  ', 

Castleton,  one  hundred  and  thirty-six  miles;  shoalest  water 
from  New-Baltimore  to  this,  three  and  a  half  to  seven  feet, 
and  four  and  a  half  to  five  and  a  half  to  Albany;  tide  rises 
two  to  four  feet  high.  ,  ,;: 

Vlamans  Kill,  west  side,  and  Winnes  pier  and  bar. 

Papacane  Creek,  east  side. 

Hoke  Bergk,  or  high  hill,  Mr  J.  B.  Staats,  five  miles  from 
Albany.     Van  Wies  Point,  west. 

Prospect  Hill,  east,  seat  of  late  E.  C.  Genet,  minister  from 
France  in  1798.  The  eastern  slopes  of  the  islands  facing  the 
overslaugh  are  paved  with  stone  to  low  water,  to  prevent  ab- 
rasion by  the  current,  and  a  dam  at  the  north  point  is  to  force 
the  water  in  one  channel,  and  increase  the  velocity,  and    re- 

4* 


4i  Albany, 

▼ont  tho  bnr  that  detains  vesselg  at  low  water.  Hitherto  the 
United  States  have  devoted  large  sumn  to  counteract  thiM  cvilf 
but  it  recurs  and  fills  up,  even  if  scoured  out  by  n  machine. 

Four  miles  above  this  is  Albany  in  plain  sight,  and  after 
passing  alone  an  island  that  intervenes  helween  the  mouth  of 
the  Norman's  Kilt,  and  Cuyter^s  Bar,  and  Van  Rensselaer's 
Mills,  and  Greenbuah,  on  the  east  shore,  we  arrive  at 


..f'  \ 


Albany, 


> 


one  hundred  and  forty-four  miles  from  New- York,  in  N.  Lat. 
42°  39',  VV.  Lonjf.  73°  13'.  The  Legislature  of  the  Slate  here 
assembles  in  the  Capitol  or  State  House,  at  the  head  of  State» 
street,  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  above  the  river.  From  the 
observatory  on  tho  top  of  this  edifice  is  one  of  the  finest  views 
in  this  Slate,  and  accessible  to  alt  straugers.  Four  Ionic  co- 
lumns of  mxrble,  thirty-three  feet  high,  ornament  the  portico. 

The  principal  objects  of  attraction  the  city  presents,  are 
its  ancient  and  modern  buildings,  and  the  public  works  of  the 
Stale,  the  Erie  and  Champlain  Canal,  and  the  f;reat  Canal 
Basin.  The  ancient  Dutch  buildings,  of  which  some  are  ju- 
diciously permitted  to  remain  in  good  order,  as  relics  of  the 
olden  tune,  by  their  owners,  must  be  sought  for  in  Pearl-street^ 
north  of  State,  and  in  streets  near  t^  river.  The  rei^idenco 
of  the  late  Governor  De  Witt  ClinKm,  and  the  Female  School, 
also  in  Pearl-street,  are  pointed  out  to  strangers. 

The  Albany  Jicadtmif ,  of  red  sandstone,  also  fronts  on  the 
square  north  of  the  Capitol,  and  cost  one  hundred  thousand 
dollars,  and  is  occupied  in  part  by  the  Albany  Institute  or 
Lyceum. 

The  City  Hall,  also  fronting  on  the  Capitol  square  on  the 
east  side,  is  a  showy  buildmg  of  white  miiri>le,  hewed  out  by 
the  Slate- prison  convicts  of  Sing  Sing,  and  is  distinguished 
above  all  other  edifices  in  America  by  its  gilded  dome,  like 
the  Invnlides  at  Paris,  and  Iihs  a  truly  dazzling  effect,— this 
is  the  court  building,  and  filled  for  County  purposes. 

An  Exchange  is  now  going  up  at  the  foot  of  Slate-street, 
and  also  frontmg  on  Market. 

There  are  twenty-two  churches  for  all  denominations;  a 
Tkeatre,  but  poorly  sustained  ;  a  Museum  in  a  semi-elliptical 
building,  that  is  of  an  elegant  and  striking  appearance,  corner 


Albany.  4t 

of  State  and  Market-streets,  and  U  worthy  of  a  visit,  and  also 
the  terrace  on  the  lop. 

The  Law  BuUdivgs,  corner  of  South,  Market,  and  Beaver, 
and  the  Suiiih  Dutch  Church  in  Beaver  and  Hudson-streets, 
>vith  its  noble  portico  of  freo-stonr'  and  neatly  arranged 
grounds,  also  the  Churches,  the  Academies,  City  Library  and 
Rflnding-room,  &.c.  are  all  objects  worthy  of  attention  to  those 
that  have  tinio  to  study  the  taste  of  the  pi»ople. 

Stanwix  Hall^  of  the  eastern  granite,  witti  its  fine  dome,  can-* 
not  but  be  admired. 

The  banking-houses,  five  in  number,  arc  in  State-street, 
but  arc  plain,  Hecent  edifices.  The  Slate-House,  for  records, 
and  for  the  use  of  the  Treasurer,  Secretary  of  Slate,  Surveyor 
General,  Register,  Adjutant  General,  Chancelor,  he.  is  a  plain 
'^r3-proof  brick  building,  solid  and  substantial. 

The  route  by  Erie  Canal  occupies  one  day  and  a  half.  Peo- 
ple that  value  their  time,  avoid  that  route,  though  along  the 
Mohnwk  and  Little  Falls  it  is  not  excelled  by  any  other.  Both 
are  given  in  full,  to  enable  the  traveler  to  make  his  selection* 

Albany  contains  about  thirty-five  thousand  inhabitants,  was 
founded  in  1610,  after  H.  Hudson  had  sailed  up  the  riv^r  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk  and  returned  to  Holland,  when  a 
fo^t  and  lodgment  was  effected  on  an  island  below,  in  1G14, 
and  found  to  be  too  much  exposed  to  floods,  ice,  &c.  and 
alandoned  three  years  after,  and  Fort  Orange  erected,  on  or 
near  the  Fort  Orange  Hotel,  in  South  Market-street. 

The  English  captured  New-York  in  1664,  when  this  place 
then  received  from  its  now  masters  the  present  name,  after 
the  Duke  of  York  and  Albany,  the  proprietor.  It  had  a  royal 
charter  in  lt)86  under  Dongan,  and  was  anciently  surrounded 
by  a  stockade  as  a  defence  against  Indiana,  and  it  has  always 
been  an  important  and  central  military  position,  both  in  the 
Indian  and  French  wars;  and  its  connection  with  the  Erie 
Canal,  and  the  rail-road  leading  to  the  west,  have  recently 
given  it  a  further  impulse  that  must  continue,  as  all  the  travel 
from  the  Eastern  States  must  pass  its  portals. 

The  dep6t  of  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson  Rail-road,  from  Al- 
bany to  Schenectady,  is  found  at  1 16  State-street,  opposite 
Congress  Hall,  near  the  top  of  the  hill  and  public  square. 
Seats  are  there  4tf)cu red  for  Utica,  price  three  dollars  and 
seventy-five  ceii^||»*>thrnugh  in  four  hours — ninetV'six  miles. 

This  JRail-road,  extending  ^fteen  miles  from  Albany  to 
Schenectady,  across  a  sandy  plain  covered  with  pines  and 


44 


Albany. 


\\ 


shrubbery,  with  an  inclined  plane  at  each  end,  cost  eight  or 
nine  hundred  thousand  dollars,  and  the  Saratoga  and  Sche- 
nectady Rail-road,  a  continuation  of  the  preceding,  and  lead- 
ing to  Ballston  and  Saratoga  Springs,  and  twenty-one  miles 
long,  cost  only  two  hundred  and  ninety-seven  thousand  two 
hundred  and  thirty-seven  dollars,  or  not  half  the  amount  of 
the  former,  and  almost  half  as  long  again;  began  in  1831, 
and  finished  in  1832.  Another  route  to  reach  the  Springs  in 
the  shortest  possible  time,  is  to  proceed  on  to  Troy,  and  take 
the  rail-road  from  thence  leading  over  to  the  islands  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Mohawk,  and  over  the  branch  of  the  delta  of 
the  Mohawk  to  Waterford,  and  thence  to  Ballston, — twenty- 
five  miles,  and  a  pleasant  route. 

The  Packet-boats  do  not  run  as  formerly  on  the  canal  be- 
tween Albany  and  Schenectady,  as  from  passing  through 
twenty-seven  locks  in  the  twenty-eight  and  a  half  miles,  and 
its  consuming  twelve  hours,  it  became  unpopular,  and  w^as 
given  up,  but  the  line  or  freight-boats  take  passengers  if  de- 
sired. Those  wishing  to  take  passage  in  the  canal-boats  that 
leave  Schenectady  for  the  west  in  the  morning  or  afternoon, 
take  cars  or  coaches  at  Albany  en  the  arrival  of  the  boats 
from  New- York,  and  are  at  Schenectady  in  time. 

For  Troy,  there  are  stages  leaving  State,  corner  of  Market- 
street,  every  half  hour,  price  one  shilling,  besides  small 
steam  boats  that  leave  on  the  arrival  of  the  great  ones  from 
PJew-York. 

Stages  leave  daily  for  Ballston  and  Saratoga  Springs,  ot  six, 
nine,  and  twelve  in  the  forenoon,  and  at  two,  three,  and  five 
in  the  afternoon ;  and  for  Whitehall  daily,  to  meet  the  boat  on 
Lake  Champlain,  that  runs  to  St.  John's,  and  by  rail-road  to 
La  Prairie,  and  on  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Montreal.  Also,  for 
New  Haven  in  a  day  and  a  half,  via  Litchfield  daily,  one 
o'clock  afternoon. 

For  Hartford  in  a  day,  via  Sheffield  and  Norfolk  daily,  one 
in  morning. 

For  Lebanon  Springs,  via  Nassau,  at  nine  in  forenoon, 
twenty-five  miles. 

For  Montreal  in  three  days,  at  two  o'clock  morning. 

For  Boston  in  two  days  or  less,  via  Lebanon,  Pittsfield, 
Northampton,  and  Worcester. 

Stage  Offices  corner  of  State  and  Market,  under  the  Mu- 
eum,  and  on  the  corner  of  Hamilton  and  Market-streets. 

-       ■.  '    \' 


^^^^.A    fcil^^^i-. 


t.i.i«<ii»  I 


Albany— Jetse  £uel. 


45 


Orand  Route  to  the  IWest, 


vti. 


one 


by  raiUroad  from  Mhany  to  Schenectady  (the  Springs,)  UOcay 
Syracuse,  Auburn,  Rochester,  Lewistown,  Batavia,  Bvffalo, 
and  Niagara  Falls. 

The  line  of  the  Mohawk  and  Hudson  Rail-road  at  its  com- 
mencement, is  in  plain  view,  seen  from  the  steam-boat,  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Hudson,  near  the  southern  confines  of  the 
city,  where  is  the  main  depdt  for  the  freight-cars,  that  are 
taken  up  the  inclined  plane  by  a  stationary  engine  to  the  sum- 
mit. Passengers  for  the  Utica,  and  Ballston,  and  Saratoga  rail- 
roads, will  purchase  their  tickets  at  the  dep6t  office,  115 
Stnte-street,  and  will  be  despatched  punctually  at  eight  o'clock. 
Price  through  to  Utica,  three  dollars  and  seventy- five  cents, 
or  to  Schenectndy,  seventy-five  ceiits,  or  to  the  Springs,  one 
dollar  and  fifty  cents. 

Horse-power  is  used  to  drag  each  car,  the  moment  passen- 
gers arrive  sufficient  to  fill  one,  out  to  the  head  of  State-street, 
where  the  locomotive  engine  is  in  waiting,  and  when  the  en« 
tire  train  is  ready,  the  road  is  soon  passed  in  a  direct  line  for 
twelve  miles  through  a  sterile,  sandy  tract,  to  Schenectady, 
nearly  on  a  level.  The  iron  plates  rest  on  wooden  rails  bedded 
on  stone.  This  has  no  connection,  by  charter,  with  the  Utica 
road.  Some  tieep  sand  excavations  and  embankments  are  pass- 
ed, and  also  the  farm  and  nursery  of  Jesse  Buel,  and  Wilson  and 
Buel,  three  miles  from  Albany.  The  farm  covers  about  eighty 
acres,  and  the  nursery  twelve  or  fifteen.  Mr.  Buel  is  exten- 
sively known  as  the  editor  of  the  Cultivator,  a  monthly  quarto 
paper  at  fifty  cents  a  year,  and  for  his  entire  devotion  to  the 
interests  of  agriculture  and  horticulture.  The  successful  re- 
sults of  his  labors  in  these  respects  are  here  beneficially  ex- 
emplified. His  catalogues  and  publications  are  to  be  seen  in 
the  Albany  book-stores.  Mr.  Buel  has  been  the  whig  candi- 
date for  Governor  of  the  State,  but  did  not  succeed. 

Arriving  at  the  inclined  plane  overlooking  Schenectady  and 
the  valley  of  the  Mohawk,  with  the  grand  Erie  Canal  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill,  the  traveler  is  three  hundred  and  thirty-five 
feet  above  tide-water  at  Albany,  (there  are  twenty-seven  canal 
locks  between  Albany  and  Schenectwdy,  rise  two  hundred  and 
twenty-seven  feet,)  one  hundred  and  eight  feet  descent  of  the 
plane  in  half  a  mile.  The  first  glance  from  this  elevation  is  very 
pleasing ;  but  a  few  moments  are  allowed  the  pasjengeri,  who 


i! 


46 


Schenectady. 


are  let  down  in  the  customary  manner,  and  pass  by  tlie  capa- 
cious depots  and  car- repositories  on  the  plain,  here  in  close 
proximity  to  the  Erie  Canal,  Mohawk  River,  &c.  &c.  Passing 
through  the  city  of  Schenectady,  this  route  unites  with  the 
rail-road  that  extends  to  Ballslon,  fifteen  miles  from  Albany, 
and  Saratoga  Springs,  six  and  a  half  miles.  (For  the  route 
to  the  Springs  via  Troy,  see  p.  44.) 


Schenectady, 

/ifteen  miles  from  Albany,  contains  about  five  thousand  five 
hundred  inhabitants,  exclusive  of  the  two  hundred  students 
attached  to  Union  College,  and  is  well  placed  near  the  Mohawk 
River.  It  was  surprised  and  burnt  by  the  French  Canadians 
and  Indians,  the  eighth  of  February,  1690,  and  the  inhabitants 
perished  in  cold  blood,  or  were  made  captives ;  few  escaped 
in  the  snow  to  Albany.  In  1748  another  massacre  took  place 
of  seventy  inhabitants,  and  in  1319  one  hundred  and  seventy 
houses  were  burnt.  There  is  a  good  hotel  on  the  main-street. 
The  dreary  old  sandy  road,  horridly  paved  whh  large  stones, 
that  formerly  was  dreaded,  and  required  four  or  five  hours  of 
stage- driving  for  the  fifteen  miles  to  Albany,  is  now  a  matter 
of  history  with  the  old  traveler,  in  contrast  with  existing  faci- 
lities, and  the  same  may  be  said  with  many  other  routes. 
There  are  two  banks,  six  churches,  a  City  Hall,  &c.  and  it  is 
an  old  settlement.  Many  mills,  and  sites  for  hydraulic  works, 
are  near  the  town. 

The  Mohawk  river  is  crossed  by  a  bridge  three  hundred 
yards  long,  and  an  embankment  of  one  thousand  three  hun- 
dred and  twenty  yards,  when  the  roads  diverge,  that  for  Utica 
to  the  west,  and  for  the  Springs  to  the  north-east. 

Union  College  may  be  advantageously  seen  while  passing 
the  bridge,  on  the  right  hand  or  south  side  of  the  Mohawk, 
on  a  gentle  ascent,  and  displays  two  ranges  of  white  build- 
ings, each  two  hundred  feet  long,  and  four  stories  high,  of 
brick ;  built  from  the  proceeds  of  a  State  lottery  in  1814.  It 
has  a  president,  (Dr.  Nott,)  several  professors,  lecturers,  and 
tutors,  a  register,  &,c.  a  library  of  ten  thousand  volumes,  a 
museum,  and  chemical  and  philosophical  apparatus :  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  students. 

Connugh-harie-gugh-harie,  or  a  great  multitude  collected 
together,  was  the  Indian  name  of  this  place,  and  the  tribe  of 


Schenectady— Amsterdam. 


^A 


Mohawks,  it  is  well  known,  that  had  their  council-fires  in  thi« 
valley,  could  muster  their  thousands,  and  strike  terror  into 
their' enemies;  (see  Colden's  History  of  Five  Nations.)  The 
Indian  name  of  Schaghnack-laa-da,  or  beyond  the  pine  plains, 
was  applied  to  Albany.  A  few  of  the  old  Dutch  buildings  yet 
remain,  and  also  a  bridge  over  the  Mohawk,  nine  hundred 
and  ninety-seven  feet  long,  (erected  by  Burr,  noted  in  former 
days  as  a  bridge  builder.)  There  are  rich  and  extensive  flata 
in  the  vicinity. 


The  Utica  and  Schenectady  Kail-road 

was  begun  in  1834,  and  finished  in  1836-7;  length  seventy- 
ei°ht  miles,  cost  one  million  six  hundred  thousand  dollars, 
with  engines,  cars,  &c.  It  is  good  stock,  and  pays  well.  The 
road  is  intended  for  a  double  track,  and  is  level  and  favorable, 
having  but  one  grade  over  sixteen  feet  of  ascent  per  mile. 

After  leaving  the  branch  road  to  the  Springs,  the  main  road 
adheres  to  the  north  bank  of  the  Ivlohawk  for  seventy-four 
miles,  and  no  line  of  rail-road  could  be  more  happily  devised, 
or  ably  and  triumphantly  achieved  than  this,  in  its  entire 
course. 

Amsterdam^  sixteen  miles  from  Schenectady,  and  sixty-two 
from  Utica,  is  a  small  village,  and  has  a  run  of  watering  and 
manufacturing  power,  (Chuctanunda  Creek,  a  fine  mill-stream 
from  Saratoga  County,  falls  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet, 
one  hundred  rods  from  its  mouth  near  by,)  and  was  the  resi- 
<lence  of  the  Johnson  family  before  the  Revolutionary  war. 
Col.  Guy,  Sir  William,  and  Sir  John,  all  stanch  and  con- 
sislnnt  loyalists  to  their  king.  The  stone  house,  one  mile  from 
the  village,  on  the  south  side  of  the  rail-road,  was  built  by 
Col.  Guy  Johnson,  and  the  one  a  mile  onward  was  occupied 
by  Sir  John,  all  famous  in  the  colonial  history. 

A  bridge  extends  across  to  the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk  in 
Florida,  and  if  the  cars  breathe  a  minute  or  two,  or  take  in 
water,  the  traveler  can  ^pring  out  and  enter  the  restaurateurs 
for  hot  cofTee  and  refreshments,  that  opportunely  occur  at 
intervals  of  about  twenty  miles.  Four  miles  onward  at  Tribe's 
hill,  observe  at  the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk  river,  and  east 
side  of  the  Schoharie  Creek,  the  site  of  old  Fort  Hunter,  Queen 
Anne's  Chapel,  and  the  old  Mohawk  Castle,  famous  in  our 


T 


"I  iiiimiimuiiiiiwnwiMii 


I      ? 


il 


48    Caughnaieaga-^Fonda—The  Nou-^Palaiine  Bridgt* 

early  history.  There  also  are  some  rude  Indian  painting^s,  or 
daubs  of  human  figures  on  the  rocks  forming  the  banks  of  the 
Mohawk  here. 

The  outlet  (if  the  Schoharie  Kill;  that  rises  on  the  northern 
slopes  of  the  Catskills,  and  the  canal  darn  and  bridge  or  tow- 
path  across,  togrether  with  the  entire  valley  and  foreground, 
is  a  combination  of  pleasing  features  of  art  and  nature. 

Cau^hnawaga^  twenty-four  miles  from  Schenectady,  and 
fifty-two  from  Utica,  and  four  miles  from  Johnstown,  thirty- 
nine  from  Albany,  was  an  Indian  village,  and  a  principal  town 
of  the  Mohawks,  and  signifies  a  coffin,  from  there  being  in 
the  river  opposite  that  place  a  large  black  stone.  The  present 
race  of  inhabitants  are  descended  from  Scotch,  Dutch,  Ger- 
man, and  eastern  or  Yankees.  The  Hall  erected  by  Sir 
William  Johnson  in  1773,  and  occupied  till  his  death,  was 
four  and  three-quarter  miles  from  this  to  the  north,  and  on  hii 
farm  was  fought  a  battle  by  the  Americans  under  Col.  Wil- 
lett,  and  the  Indians  and  their  allies,  the  twenty-fifth  October, 
1781.  Most  persons  recollect  Sir  William  Johnson's  adroit 
reply  to  an  Indian  dream,  in  allusion  to  the  line  red  cloth  and 
lace  cloak  that  the  Indian  chief  unluckily  dreamed  that  Sir 
William  had  presented  to  him,  and  that  Sir  William  gave  with- 
out hesitation ;  but  soon  after,  he  had  his  dream,  that  the  In- 
dian had  given  him  a  large  tract  of  rich  land,  that  the  Mo- 
hawk gave  up  with  equal  liberality,  but  said  that  ho  should 
not  dream  again  with  the  honorable  baronet. 

Fonda,  a  short  distance  from  the  previous  place,  has  the 
county  buildings,  and  a  fine  new  court-house  is  erected.  The 
county-seat  has  recently  been  transferred  here  from  Johnstown, 
as  the  county  of  Montgomery  also  extends  south  of  the  Mo- 
hawk to  Schoharie  and  Otsego.  The  church  at  Johnstown,  built 
by  Sir  William,  and  containing  his  remains,  w&s  burnt  in  1836. 

The  Nose^  thirty  miles  from  Schenectady,  is  another  protu- 
berance of  St.  Anthony,  that  like  its  namesake  on  the  Hud- 
son, before  described,  see  p.  18,  here  interposes  an  obstruction 
from  a  high  spur  coming  down  from  the  north,  or  right  hand, 
that  required  considerable  wrenching  or  blasting,  to  admit  of 
the  rail-road,  and  give  sufficient  right  of  way  for  the  modern 
improvements. 

Palatine  Bridge,  thirty-five  miles  from  Schenectady,  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river  is  Canajoharie  and  the  rail-road  to  Cats- 
kill,  seventy  miles. 

A  corn-mill  nnugtructed  by  the  Indians  of  a  circular  hole  in 


£a9t  Canada  Creek -Fail  Hill-^Litae  FaUs. 


49 


the  rock,  into  which  was  fitted  a  large  stone  (o  grind  their 
corn,  formerly  existed  here  above  the  nose,  and  gave  the  name 
of  Bread  Creek  to  tlie  small  stream. 

From  Canajohari  Mo  Cherry  Valley  are  stages. 

Three  miles  west  of  Palatine  Bridge,  we  are  near  Fort  Plain, 
and  Sharon  Sulphur  Springs  on  the  opposite  shore,  where 
Capt.  Butler,  from  his  bloody  visit  to  Cherry  Valley,  came  and 
tomahawked  the  settlers  at  this  remote  frontier  post. 

Four  miles  west  of  Palatine  Bridge  we  cross  the  East 
Canada  Creek,  on  the  line  between  Montgomery  and  Herki- 
mer Counties,  (thirty-nine  from  Schenectady,)  and  in  six  miles 
arrive  at  Litlle  Falls,  (fifty-seven  miles  from  Schenectady, 
and  twenty-one  from  Utica,)  and  in  three  miles  pass  Gen.  Her- 
kimer's grave  on  the  south  side  of  the  river,  near  a  brick 
house  on  a  hill. 

Fall  Hill  is  five  hundred  and  eighteen  feet  above  the  canal, 
and  seven  hundred  and  twelve  above  tide  in  the  Hudson,  and 
is  a  spur  that  puts  off  to  the  noMh-west  from  the  Catskili 
range,  and  is  of  granite  and  lime-stone  intermixed.  Vale  half 
a  mile  wide.  A  dam  of  fifty  feet  here  would  back  the  water 
to  Oneida  Lake.  The  cavities  and  water- worn  rocks  indicate  a 
barrier  formerly  at  this  spot.  ;     .    . 

As  we  draw  near  to  the  opening  in  the  mountains,  or  as  we 
approach  the  Little  Falls,  the  contour  of  the  scene  becomes 
more  impressive ;  the  hills  on  the  opposing  sides  converge, 
restricting  the  river  and  the  Erie  Canal  on  the  south,  and  the 
rail-road  and  the  old  turnpike  on  the  north  to  the  narrowest 
possible  limits,  and  bringing  them  all  under  the  eye  of  the 
visiter.  The  excavations  in  the  solid  rock  for  the  purposes  of 
the  rail-road,  almost  equal  those  made  for  the  canal,  and 
claim  our  admiration  and  approval,  both  for  the  remarkable 
facilities  allotted  by  nature  in  the  formation  of  this  celebrated 
pass  or  GAP  on  the  iMohawk,  (itself  a  prolonged  deep  valley 
or  pass,  extending  exactly  in  the  desired  course  for  a  hundred 
miles,  thus  admitting,  side  by  side,  a  canal  and  road  on  the 
south  side  of  the  river,  and  the  rail-road  and  turnpike  on  the 
other,  leaving,  in  fact,  very  little  use  for  the  river,  except  to 
yield  its  waters  to  fill  the  canal ;  thus  exemplifying  the  reply 
of  Brindley,  the  engineer,  who,  when  asked  his  opinion  as  to 
the  use  of  rivers,  replied,  ''to  feed  navigable  canals,")  and  also 
for  the  boldness  and  originality  of  the  heads  that  conceived, 
and  those  that  planned  and  executed,  in  an  incredibly  short 
period,  the  various  massive  and  enduring  works  of  art  that 

5 


g»luliJi.,JJiUBBBgcatai 


5BS 


50 


TTiM  Valley  of  the  Mohawk. 


L  > 


I! 


are  here  concentrated,  and  brought  into  prominent  relief  be* 
fore  and  around  us. 

The  eight  old  locks  and  excavations,  on  a  puny  scale,  of 
the"  Western  Inland  Lock  Navigation  Company,"  made  forty 
years  since,  to  obviate  the  obstructions  and  render  navigable 
the  Mohawk  River  through  to  the  Oneida  Lake,  are  here  seen 
amid  the  rocks  and  rapids,  as  a  memorial  of  the  earliest  at- 
tempt made  in  this  State  to  introduce  canal  navigation ;  but 
this  did  not  remunerate  the  projectors  well,  and  when  the 
Erie  Canal  was  efiectedj,  the  State  finally  paid  one  hundred 
thousand  dollars,  to  satisfy  the  claims  of  the  stockholders  in 
the  old  concern,  (about  one  fifth  part  of  their  expenditures.) 
There  are  at  this  village  one  hundred  and  fifty  houses,  a  church 
or  two,  a  bank,  and  the  whole  has  a  substantial  appearance. 

The  traveler  on  the  rail-road  cannot  do  justice  to  the  im- 
mense  extent  of  the  public  works  and  expenditures  hero  ex- 
hibited  to  him  by  the  State  of  New- York,  and  by  the  Rail- 
road Company,  in  merely  giving  a  birdVeye  view  as  he  flies 
rapidly  along,  at  the  general  and  combined  efiect ;  for  here 
are  not  only  locks,  canals,  rail-roads,  and  other  roads,  but 
also  viaducts,  aqueducts,  water-falls,  race-ways,  mills,  ma- 
chinery, and  a  noble  stream  urging  its  triumphant  and 
foaming  path  over  its  rugged  bed  in  the  very  midst,  and  giv- 
ing vast  life,  vigor,  and  animation  to  the  assemblage  of  objects, 
but  the  face  of  the  hill,  also,  is  full  of  memorials  of  the  changes 
that  time  and  the  elements  have  wrought  out  on  the  rocks  in 
the  lapse  of  ages,  that  to  a  geologist,  or  man  of  science,  will 
be  replete  with  interesting  recollections. 

For  several  miles  the  beetling  and  rocky  precipices  en- 
croach very  closely  upon  the  scanty  line  of  road,  and  barely 
admit  of  a  joint  use  of  the  space  for  the  three-fold  purpose 
of  the  canal,  river,  and  roads.  The  beautiful  Aqueduct  that 
spans  over  the  entire  volume  of  the  Mohawk,  that  is  here 
compressed  into  its  narrowest  limits,  rests  on  two  arches  of 
fifty,  and  one  of  seventy  feet,  and  thus  forms  a  navigable 
feeder  for  the  canal,  one  hundred  and  seventy  feet  long,  and 
a  link  between  the  nortb  and  south  shore.  It  is  also  a  leading 
feature  in  the  picture,  and  the  curious  traveler  that  is  not  sat- 
isfied with  a  transient  and  hasty  glance,  can  leave  the  car  to 
explore  around  for  a  few  hours  in  this  highly  interesting  re- 
gion, and  proceed  in  the  next  train.  Cross  by  the  railing  on 
the  side  of  the  aqueduct  and  descend  on  the  stone  bridge,  and 
take  a  view  of  the  central  arch  with  the  basin  beneath,  and 


i 


Gulf  Bridge— Herkimer, 


H 


ma- 
and 


»g  ic- 
ing on 

|e,  and 

and 


the  chutes  that  come  pouring  down,  and  then  scramble  up  to 
the  top  of  the  mountain  to  catch  a  view  of  the  Mohawk  val- 
ley for  twenty  or  thirty  miles,  and  examine  Xhefivt  loekSy  and 
the  foundations  of  the  canal,  skirted  by  the  deep  and  rapid 
river,  and  the  huge  rocks  and  mountain  profiles. 

The  long  level  of  seventy  miles  on  the  Erie  Canal,  without 
a  lock,  commences  at  number  fifty-three,  and  extends  on 
through  Utica,  Whitestown,  Rome,  Verona,  Lenox,  Sullivan, 
Manlius,  Lodi,  Salina,  to  Syracuse,  Onondaga  County.  This 
comprised  the  easi^^st  portion  of  the  canal,  and  was  the  first 
finished  in  1817. 

There  will  be  no  more  moxmtain  scenery  compared  to  this, 
for  the  traveler  to  behold,  for  several  hundred  miles  west,  un- 
less he  quits  or  diverges  from  the  beaten  track ;  but  there 
may  be  equally  gratifying  or  varied  scenes. 

The  Gulf  Bridge  is  a  span  of  one  arch  of  one  hundred  and 
sixty  feet  wide,  and  fifty  above  the  stream,  that  occasionally 
discharges  a  very  heavy  bcdy  of  water  collected  among  the 
mountains  and  wild  lands  north  of  the  Mohawk.  In  this  vi- 
cinity much  labor  andcxpcnse  was  incurred  by  blasting  rocks 
and  forming  embankments. 

In  the  township  of  Herkimer  we  bid  adieu  to  the  rough 
and  rocky  features  around  the  Little  Falls,  and  the  road  im- 
mediately enters  upon  a  more  sylvan  scene,  still  adhering  to 
the  vicinity  of  the  river,  that  is  prettily  skirted  with  dwarf 
trees  and  shrubs,  and  is  seen  meandering  throughout  for 
seven  miles  across  the  celebrated  German  Flats,  a  most  fertile 
tract;  but  during  the  war  of  1756  between  the  English  and 
French,  the  Canadians  and  savages  invaded  this  peaceful  vale, 
to  kill,  burn,  and  destroy.  The  road  then  passes  over  fVest 
Canada  Creek  (Trenton  Falls  being  a  few  miles  north,  see 
p.  53)  by  a  good  bridge,  and  in  half  a  mile  we  are  at  Herkimer^ 
the  county  town,  sixty-four  miles  from  Schenectady,  and 
fourteen  from  Utica,  in  the  midst  of  the  rich  flats.  It  has 
one  hundred  and  fifty  houses,  and  twelve  hundred  inhabi- 
tants, a  court-house,  a  jail,  and  a  neat  church.  The  village 
is  pleasant  to  the  eye,  and  the  buildings  comfortable.  There 
is  an  obstruction  made  across  the  West  Canada  Creek,  that 
forms  a  cascade  above  the  bridge,  and  a  canal  is  cut  to  the 
Mohawk,  for  mills. 

In  five  miles,  the  road  crosses  the  Mohawk  River  to  Frank- 
forty  on  the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk,  and  continues  for  nine 
miles  through  a  series  of  fine  farming  lands,  that  indicates 


0t  Utica^  Celerity  of  Travelings 

our  approach  to  an  inland  city,  that  soon  looms  up  at  a  dis- 
tance with  prepossessing  efTect,  and  we  find  ourselves  in  the 
capacious  Utica  dep6t  buildings,  having  finished  one  of  the 
most  lovely  rides  possibje,  and  a  feast  to  the  e^^e  throughout, 
and  passed  in  a  rapid  flight  of  four  hours,  along  the  most 
attractive  parts  of  the  State. 

The  Rail-road  to  Syracuse,  sixty  miles  west,  follows,  not 
far  off,  the  same  monotonous  level  as  the  Erie  Canal,  and  is 
continued  to  Auburn,  twenty-seven  miles,  and  will  soon  be 
made  on  and  across  the  Cayuga  Lake  and  bridge,  to  Water- 
loo, and  Geneva,  Ganandaigua,  Bloomfield,  Liva,  Avon,  (with 
a  branch  to  Rochester,)  Caledonia,  Le  Roy,  Stafford,  Bata- 
via,  BuHalo. 

UTICA  contains  about  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  a 
central  point  for  turnpikes,  rail-roads,  and  canals,  that  radi- 
ate from  this  in  all  directions:  the  Chenango  Canal  to  the 
south,  the  Black  River  Canal  to  the  north,  and  the  Erie  Canal 
and  the  rail-roads  to  the  east,  north- west  to  Oswego,  and  west, 
and  stages  in  every  direction.  Fort  Schuyler,  noted  in  the  early 
history  of  this  State,  was  on  the  site  of  a  part  of  this  city, 
near  the  river,  and  bridge,  and  the  dep6t,  and  was  an  im- 
portant frontier  post  during  the  wars  of  1756,  and  1776-83. 
In  1784,  after  the  peace,  the  first  settlement  commenced,  and 
from  1789  to  1800  it  went  on  prosperously,  and  has  so  con- 
tinued to  the  present  time.  The  internal  improvements  of  this 
State,  from  their  concentration  hereabouts,  must  ever  make 
this  an  important  inland  town,  and  eventually,  perhaps,  the 
seat  of  the  Legislature. 

The  Rail-road  to  Oswego  is  to  be  continued  through  the  val- 
ley of  the  Mohawk,  near  the  river,  and  over  the  rich  alluvial 
plains  of  Whitesboro',  Rome,  and  along  Wood  Creek,  and 
across  Fish  Creek,  and  by  the  north  shore  of  the  beautiful 
Oneida  Lake  and  river  outlet,  in  a  north-west  direction  to  Os- 
wego, at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswego  River,  Lake  Ontario,  a  dis- 
tance of  seventy-five  miles;  from  whence  by  steam-boat 
daily  to  Lewiston  is  one  hundred  and  eighty-five  miles  ;  »he 
time  required,  twelve  to  fifteen  hours;  that,  added  to  the  four 
from  tJlica,  and  four  from  Schenectady,  one  to  Albany,  and 
ten  to  New-Vprk,  gives  thirty-one  hours  as  the  time  by  that 
route,  or  only  twenty-four  to  twenty-seven  hours  via  rail- 
road from  New-York,  Harlaem,  to  Albany,  Schenectady, 
Utica.  Oswego,  and  steam  to  Lewiston,  (from  N^w-Orleana 
by  rail-road  to  Charleston  in  five  days,  and  in  three  to  New- 


Salmon  River  FcUU-^Trenion  FdUt, 


53 


K 


,  not 
nd  » 
•n  be 
aler- 
(wiih 
Bata- 

d  is  a 
t  radi- 
to  the 
Canal 
i  west, 
e  early 
8  city, 
an  im- 

6-83. 

d,  and 
con- 

of  thii 
make 

pa,  the 

ihe  val- 
lluvial 

jk,  and 
auliful 
to  Os- 

0,  a  di«- 
m-boat 

es ;  the 
the  four 
ny,  and 
by  that 
via  rail- 
lectadyt 
Orleans 
^o  New- 


Tork,  and  one  (to  Niagara,  is  only  nine  days,)  amounting  near 
to  annihilation  of  time  and  space  1 

The  Salmon  River  Falls  of  one  hundred  and  ei£[ht  feet,  in 
the  township  of  Orwell,  sixty-four  miles  north-west  of  Utica, 
may  be  visited  t)y  takin?  the  stage  route  to  Sackett's  Harbor, 
and  diveriiing  at  Redfield  to  the  west,  towards  the  spot.  Par- 
ties of  pleasure  may  descend  by  water  down  the  river  from 
Redfield,  or  by  land  by  a  decent  road,  being  but  six  miles. 
The  current  i«  moderate  for  three  or  four  miles,  then  two 
miles  of  rapids  occur,  when  we  arrive  at  the  falls,  whore  the 
river  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide  at  some  seasons,  with 
the  banks  of  slate  and  granite,  or  gneiss,  rising  seventy-five 
feet  above  the  falls  on  oach  side  ;  the  waters  arc  received  into 
a  cbnem  about  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  or  more  feet  in 
depth,  making  the  precipice  in  all  two  hundred  feet,  and  at 
the  foot  of  the  cataract  there  is  a  deep  pool  of  water  replete 
with  fish  of  the  first  quality,  viz.  salmon,  trout,  &c.  forming  a 
well  known  and  capital  reservoir  to  supply  tlie  gourmands  and 
hotels  to  a  great  distance  around,  that  send  here  to  replenish 
their  larders  and  stock  of  fresh-water  dainties. 

From  Lake  Ontario,  the  Salmon  River  is  eight  to  ten  rods 
in  width  for  twenty  miles  above  its  mouth,  and  may  be  as- 
cended in  high  and  favorable  stages  of  water,  even  to  the  foot 
of  the  falls;  and  as  they  are  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  and  have 
not  hitherto  been  much  known  to  the  public,  or  minutely  de- 
scribed, travelers  will  have  another  inducement  to  explore 
the  hidden  beauties  of  the  recesses  and  waterfalls,  and  the 
geological  formations  of  this  extensive  portion  of  the  State, 
that  yet  retains  much  of  its  primitive  wildness. 


Trenton  Falls, 

fifteen  miles  from  Utica  in  a  north<east  direction,  on  West 
Canada  Creek,  are  too  much  in  vogue  to  be  omitted  by 
the  traveler  in  search  of  amusement,  that  has  the  least  pre- 
tension to  correct  taste,  and  that  follows  in  the  footsteps 
of  his  predecessors  in  this  fashionable  route,  though  it  in- 
volves the  necessity  of  devoting  at  least  ten  or  fifteen  hours, 
and  breaks  ofi*  from  the  regular  routine  in  going  east  or  west, 
and  abstracts  so  much  from  the  time  and  the  purse ;  yet  ne- 
vertheless, those  that  come  or  go  thus  far  to  see  all  that  is  ac- 

6* 


■'k 


Trenton  Falls — West  Canada  Creek. 


fually  worthy  of  notice,  should  by  nil  means,  in  our  opinion, 
make  their  pilgrimage  to  this  shrine,  by  forming  an  agreeable 
party,  hiring  a  conveyance,  and  leaving  Uiica  early  in  the 
morning,  ehould  it  be  nitendcd  to  return  in  the  afternoon,  and 
devote  only  one  day.  The  famous  front  dinners  that  are 
usually  procured  at  the  hotel  near  the  falls,  are  also  one  of 
the  enjoyments  of  the  place.  Though  it  may  excite  8urpri!>e 
in  some,  yet  we  are  constrained  to  declare,  that  the  sensa- 
tions awakened  in  a  lively  and  ardent  imagination,  and  the 
unmingled  gratification  derived  by  the  spectator  when  the 
glories  of  this  exquisite  spectacle  break  upon  his  view,  will 
fur  a  time  absorb  him  in  silent  astonishment,  and  leave  nothing 
more  to  wish  for,  so  near  is  it  to  perfection.  The  traveller 
will  at  first  be  so  overpowered  by  what  he  beholds,  that  it  is 
pardonable  if  he  should  question  if  there  can  be  on  earth 
an  exhibition  of  falling  water  equal  or  superior;  but  whea 
his  gust  of  feeling  is  over,  he  may  subspquenily  have  reason  to 
change  or  modify  this  opinion  as  he  travels  farther  and  sees 
more,  compares,  and  reflects,  and  discrir  ates,  giving  to  all 
the  due  meed  of  praise,  Ixit  even  then,  len  he  reverts  to 
Trenton  Falls  in  after  life,  the  impression  it  first  made  upon 
his  mind  is  strong  and  enduring,— perhaps  unrivalled. 

West  Canada  Creek  is  about  sixty  miles  long,  and  rises  in 
the  wild  tracts,  and  interlocks  with  the  sources  of  Black  River 
in  the  high  and  bleak  regions  north  of  the  Mohawk  River, 
and  forms  one  of  the  principal  tributaries  of  the  latter,  and 
occasionally  vomits  forth  its  sudden  and  dangerous  floods 
land  wears  and  tears  its  impetuous  course  among  the  limestone 
and  slaty  rocks,  until,  near  Trenton,  it  enters  upon  a  series  of 
descents  of  near  forty  feet  down  a  ravine  that  it  has  worked 
for  five  miles  into  every  various  form  of  twisted  and  dis- 
torted aspect,  and  at  the  bridge  on  the  road  above  the  Little 
Falls  begins  to  be  remarkable,  but  three  miles  below,  and 
two  east  of  Trenton  village,  it  increases  upon  and  absorbs 
the  wonder  of  the  traveler. 

Following  the  path  from  the  hotel  or  boarding-house,  we 
arrive  at  the  brink  of  a  ravine,  bordered  by  forest  trees  and 
evergreens  of  spruce,  fir,  hemlock.  &c.  The  appearance  of 
such  a  deep  ravine  in  the  general  surface,  that  had  not  before 
been  noticed  in  the  approach,  is  the  source  of  some  surprise, 
and  this  is  increased  as  we  descend  the  stairway  into  the 
depths  and  gloom  of  the  ravine,  here,  perhaps,  one  hundred 
i^nd  fifty  or  two  hundred  and  $fty  feet  deep,  and  two  hundred 

4 


Sherman's  Fall— High  Falh-MUl  Dam  Fall—Coicadet.  55 

wide,  and  find  ourselves  upon  a  floor  or  foundation  of  solid 
rock,  and  with  a  very  limited  extent  of  blue  sky,  or  tiie  vault 
or  arch  of  heaven  ahove  our  heads.  On  glancing  the  ey« 
around  the  walls  of  the  immense  chamber  or  enclosure  that 
encompasses  us,  we  admire  the  drapery  that  covers  and  or- 
naments the  ro^ks,  and  the  lichens  of  scarlet,  green,  and  yel- 
low, the  trees  that  wave  over  the  margin,  or  impend  in  threat- 
ening attitudes,  held  only  by  a  slight  adhesion  of  their  roots, 
juiting  from  the  loose  soil  above,  or  the  shrubs  and  creeping 
ivies,  trailing  down  in  graceful  festoons  from  crevices  high  up 
and  midway  on  the  face  of  the  precipice. 

As  we  advance  slowly  up,  wo  note  the  regular  horizontal 
arrangement  of  the  limestone  that  CGmprises  the  sides,  and 
the  cleur  and  massive  pavement-like  regularity  beneath  our 
feet;  the  mechanical  form  and  regularity  of  the  circular  or 
deep  cistern-sliaped  pools,  or  the  square  race-ways  and  chan- 
nets,  as  though  chiseled  by  the  hand  of  art,  and  leading  from 
reservoir  to  cascade  in  endless  variety,  and  passing  through 
with  unceasing  force  and  rapidity. 

Contemplating  in  every  aspect  these  wonders  of  the  glen, 
we  proceed  to  the  falls  in  succession,  beginning  with 

Sherman's  Fall,  thirty-five  feet,  named  after  John  Sher- 
man, the  first  occupant  of  the  hotel,  and  one  that  was  exten- 
sively known  as  a  good  lecturer  to  his  visitors  here  on  the 
numerous  organic  remains  that  are  containe<l  in  the  rock  to  a 
very  remarkalde  extent,  and  that  Mr.  Sherman  exhibited  a 
profusion  of  it  in  his  museum,  after  gi^'ing  a  capital  dinner  to 
his  hearers  and  customers.  Mr.  Sherman  formed  the  path, 
and  placed  the  chains  for  the  security  of  visiters  that  have 
the  courage  and  curiosity  to  place  themselves  in  these  trying, 
queer,  and  delicate  positions  for  nervous  persons. 

The  High  Palls^  one  hundred  and  nine  feet,  divided  into 
three  different  and  splendid  chutes,  of  thirty-seven,  eleven, 
and  forty-eight,  besides  the  connecting  chain  of  irregular  de- 
scent or  slope,  in  grand  floods  or  overflows  are  all  combined 
into  one  descending  mass  of  pure  snowy-white  foam,  but  in 
a  drier  season  it  finds  its  way  over  the  rocks  in  separate 
channels. 

The  Mill  Dam  Fall  has  a  tmlform  pitch  of  fourteen  feet 
only,  and  is  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  wide. 

The  Cascades^  and  intermediate  chain  of  rapids,  have  a  fall 
of  eighteen  feet,  and  are  much  more  compressed  by  the  jag- 
ged projections  of  the  ravine. 


B6 


Stage  Route  to  the  Falls  of  Niagara. 


The  Upper  Fall  is  about  twenty  feet,  and  is  received  into  a 
capacious  leceptacle  or  reservoir,  that  is  tapped  and  let  ofTby 
a  wild  ravine,  and  the  coup  d'oeil  from  the  bridge,  or  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river,  is  very  pleasing,  and  we  have  arrived  at 
the  hpad  of  the  ravine,  and  beyond  this,  we  have  in  a  distniice 
of  two  miles  of  rapidg,  a  descent  of  fifty  or  sixry  feet.  There 
are  other  fulls  at  and  below  Conrad's  Miilsi  that  do  not  require 
specific  notice. 

When  the  writer  visited  these  falls,  the  water  was  at  that 
stage  when  there  was  evidently  not  the  slightest  danger  to 
any  prudent,  careful  person,  not  disposed  to  incur  needless 
risk ;  and  when  Ihe  water  is  lower  than  common,  there  is  still 
enough  that  will  please  and  reward  the  visiter,  and  during  the 
excitement  of  an  overwhelming  freshet,  no  one  would  venture 
below  the  stairway. 

From  Ulica  an  important  route  extends  south,  along  the 
banks  of  the  Chenango  River  and  Canal,  through  Oneida, 
Madison,  Chenango,  and  Broome  Counties,  to  Bingharaton 
on  the  Susquehannah  River,  about  ninety-two  miles,  and 
thence  east  to  Catskill,  and  also  south-east  through  Pennsyl- 
vania and  New- York  to  Newburgh,  and  also  west  to  Oswego, 
Athens,  Tioaa  Point,  Chemung,  Elmira,  Painted  Post,  Bath, 
Baiavia,  Buffalo,  or  from  Owego  over  the  hills  by  a  good 
road  to  Wiikesbarre,  or  Valley  of  Wyoming,  or  through  New 
Jersey  by  way  of  Milford,  or  Delaware,  Morristown,  and 
Newark,  to  New- York. 

The  ride  along  the  banks  of  the  Susquehannah  from  its 
source  in  the  Otsego  Lake,  southward  to  the  Great  Bend, 
and  thence  west  for  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  through 
Binghamton,  Owego,  Newtown,  and  near  the  line  of  the 
New-York  and  Erie  Rail-road,  is  capital,  and  also  from  Tioga 
Point  down  to  Wyoming,  Harrisburgh,  and  the  coal  mines. 

tStase  Route  from  Utiea  to  the  Falls  of 

.   Niag^ara.  ^ 

(Until  ihe  enlargement  of  the  Erie  Canal  to  seventy  feet  width 
and  six  fed  depth,  to  admit  of  the  use  of  steam-boats^  or  until  a 
continuous  line  of  rail-road  is  effected  from  Auburn  to  Rochester 
and  Buffalo.) 

New  Hartford,  four  miles;  Manche8ter,five;  Vernon,  eight; 
Oneida  Castle,  five;  Lenox  and  Canostota,  three;  Quality  Hill, 


Clinton  Liberal  In»txluU-Bapti$i  Lit.  and  Tfieo.  Intt.    67 


Of 


three;  Chitteningo,  five;  (two  routei  from  hence  to  Auburn 
and  Cayupa  Lake;  the  right  hand,  or  northern,  near  the  ca- 
nal, through  Syracuse,  Geddes,  Milan,  Cnmillus.  Elbridge, 
Brutus,  Troopsville,  forty  miles,)  the  other  as  follows:  to 
Munlius,  seven;  Jameeviile,  six ;  Onondaga  Hollow  and  Creek, 
four ;  Onondaga  on  tho  hill,  two ;  (Syracuse,  and  the  salt 
works,  and  Onondaga  Lnke  in  sight  down  in  the  valley  be- 
low, with  the  canal  leading  north  to  Oswego  on  Lake  Onta- 
rio;) Marcellus,  eight;  (falls  two  miles  north,  of  sixty-five 
feet ;)  and  Skaneateless,  six;  (branch  raiNroad  of  four  and 
a  half  miles  to  the  north  to  Auburn  and  Syracuse  rail-road:) 
Auburn,  seven  ;  Cayuga,  seven  ;  Seneca  Falls,  four;  Water 
loo,  four;  Geneva,  seven;  (Canandaigua,  fifteen;  to  Roches* 
ter,  twenty-snven  miles;)  East  Bloomfield,  nine;  West  Bloom- 
field,  five;  Lima,  four;  Avon,  five;  Sulphur  Springs,  nine; 
Potosi,  two.  Cross  Genesee  River  to  Caledonia  Large  Spring, 
eight ;  Le  Roy,  six  ;  Batavia,  ten ;  Pembroke,  fourteen ;  Cla- 
rence, eight;  Williamsville,  eight ;  Buffalo,  ten. 

The  ride  from  Ulica  to  Nexo  Hartford,  by  the  Sedaghqueda 
Creek,  and  line  of  Chenango  Canal,  is  delightful,  and  in- 
dicates at  the  last  place  a  wealthy,  happy  people,  with  their 
handsome,  comfortable  mansions,  fine  farms,  gardens,  one 
hundred  and  sixty  buildings,  three  churches,  and  several 
mills.  At  a  distance  of  three  miles,  observe  the  edifices  of 
^Hamilton  College  on  the  hill  one  mile  and  a  half  from  the  vil- 
lage of  Clinton.  The  annual  commencement  is  on  the  second 
Wednesday  in  August.  There  are  three  colleges,  and  a 
church  of  blone,  A  president,  professors  of  Ethics  and  Po- 
litical Economy,  Natural  Philosophy  and  Chemistry,  Lan- 
guages, Mathematics,  and  Astronomy,  one  tutor,  one  hundred 
and  fifteen  students.  The  late  W.  H.  Maynard  gave  it  twenty 
thousand  dollars,  and  S.  Dexter  fifteen  thousand  dollais. 

The  Clinton  Liberal  Institute,  in  the  village  of  that  name, 
consists  of  a  farm  for  such  as  desire  to  pay  a  portion  of  the 
expenses  of  education  by  manual  labor.  There  are  two  col- 
lege buildings,  one  of  stone,  ninety-six  by  fifty-two  feet,  and 
five  stories  high,  with  forty-four  rooms  for  study,  a  lecture- 
room,  and  others  for  the  professors.  No  sectarian  or  theolo- 
gical instruction  admitted. 

Baptist  Hamilton  Literary  and  Theological  Institution,  a 
stone  house,  one  hundred  by  sixty  feet,  four  stories,  has  sixty- 
eight  chambers,  a  lecture-room,  library,  and  chapel,  a  board- 
ing-house, a  shop  for  work,  a  farm  of  one  hundred  and  thirty 


18  Oneida  Castle — Cazenovia,  SfC. 

acres.  Four  years  is  the  regular  course,  two  for  theological ; 
one  hundred  and  eighty  students ;  tuition  sixteen  dollars  a 
year;  board,  washing,  and  lodging,  one  dollar  a  week. 

The  same  appearance  of  exuberance  and  fertility  continues 
to  Manchester,  on  the  Oriskana  Creek,  a  manufacturing  vil- 
lage, and  also  to  Vernon,  with  its  churches,  mills,  and  glass 
factory.  The  Oneida  Castle  and  Creek  is  on  the  old  Indian 
reservation  of  the  Oneida  and  Tnscarora  Indians,  that  but  re- 
cently removed  from  this  to  Green  Bay,  or  rather  to  Winne- 
bago Lake  in  Wisconsin.  Lenox  has  one  store,  two  taverns, 
thirty  houses,  one  Presbyterian  Church.  Canoslota  has  four 
churches,  four  taverns,  four  stores,  and  several  groceries  and 
forwarding  houses,  one  high  school,  and  one  hundred  and 
thirty  neat  dwellings,  and  is  seen  a  few  rods  north  of  the  road 
on  the  canal  and  Caneseraga  Creek. 

Chitteningo  Creek  and  village,  a  branch  canal  of  one  mile 
and  a  half  leads  to  the  Erie  Canal,  and  a  small  settlement,  ba- 
sin, dry-dock,  and  boat-yard.  The  village  contains  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  houses,  a  large  Dutch  Reforme<l  Church  of 
Btone,  and  ncademy  of  the  same  sect,  and  one  Presbyterian 
and  one  Methodist  church,  three  taverns,  stores,  &,c.  It  is  on 
the  outlet  uf  Cazenovia  Lake,  from  whence  there  is  a  descent 
of  seven  hundred  and  forty  feet,  including  one  pitch  of  one 
hundred  and  thi:  j'-f<sur  feet,  giving  great  water-power  for 
eight  or  ten  miles.  Two  mineral  springs  in  the  vale  one  mile 
above,  of  sulphur  and  magnesia  ;  hill  on  the  east  of  calciferous 
slate,  \vith  springs  holding  carbonate  of  lime,  and  forming 
petrifactions  in  abundance  for  rabinets. 

Lake  Cazenovia,  or  Hnwgeno,  or  Canaleraga,  or  Linklaen, 
is  four  miles  fong  and  one  broad,  and  is  a  beautiful  expanse, 
environed  by  u  gently  waving  country. 

The  town  of  C,a,fnovin  is  placed  at  the  outlet  of  the  lake, 
and  has  three  lti:ndre«)  houses,  neat,  substantial,  of  limestone 
or  brick,  a  banh,  a  land  office,  a  ladies'  seminary,  and  one  for 
Methodists,  of  large  brick  buildings  for  one  hundred  and 
twenty- five  boarders,  and  having  two  hundred  and  fifty  pu- 
pils, male  and  female,  a  Presbyterian,  a  Congregational,  a 
Baptist,  and  a  Methodist  church,  five  mills,  two  woollen  fac- 
tories, a  wire  loom,  three  ho(els,  two  drug,  one  book,  and  ten 
dry  good  stores,  ashery,  tannery,  six  groceries.  Col.  Linklaen 
heaun  this  town  in  1795,  and  it  is  a  charming  spot,  and  lands 
around  it  are  forty  to  fifty  dollars  the  acre.  Cannot  the 
traveler  step  aside  for  an  hour  or  two,  and  examine  this  pretty 
lake  and  town  ? 


lS!!''WP«?»f?ll^^''rW5»7T'''^'^'s''''''T^ 


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Maniiu9—Gre*n  Pond^ Onondaga  We*t  Hill.         M 

ManliWt  in  Onondaga  County^  on  the  east  of  Limestone 
Creek,  at  the  junction  of  several  roads,  is  ten  miles  south-east 
of  Syracuse,  and  forty  west  of  Utica ;  has  three  churches, 
one  hundred  and  fifty  liouses,  two  taverns,  six  stores,  one  cot- 
ton factory,  and  several  mills.  One  mile  south  of  the  village, 
and  on  both  branches,  are  falls,  one  of  a  hundred,  and  one  of 
fifty  feet;  also  a  sulphur  spring  with  petrifying  qualities. 

Grem  Pond  is  one  and  a  half  miles  long  by  three-quarters 
wide,  and  is  sunk  two  hundred  feet  below  the  level  o^  the 
rocky  shores,  and  is  two  hundred  feet  deep.  The  surface  is 
a  mirror  of  deep  green.  It  is  in  the  town  of  Jamesville,  six 
miles  from  Manlius. 

Onondaga  Hollow  and  Valley  is  remarkable  for  being  the 
chi'of  seat  of  the  power  of  this  tribe,  one  of  the  confederation 
of  the  five  nations  that  ruled  ih»s  Slate.  The  Onondaga  Creek 
is  a  lively  stream  that  runs  from  south  to  north  for  ten  miles, 
through  n  broad  rich  valley  of  the  deepest  soil  of  vegetable 
mould,  and  enters  the  Onondaga  Lake  at  its  south-east  cor* 
ner  near  Salina.  The  old  castle  or  council-house,  the  ancient 
seat  of  Indian  power,  and  the  reservation  and  town  recently 
h«ld  by  them,  was  three  miles  south  of  the  road,  in  fifty  log 
houses  on  a  long  street,  and  perchance  some  of  the  remnant 
of  the  tribe  may  yet  be  seen  lingering  about  in  the  neigh- 
borhood, or  at  Syracuse.  The  Indian  name  for  the  whole 
confederacy  was  Aganuschioni,  or  United  People,  and  by 
the  French,  Iroquois,  and  consisted  of  the  Mohawks,  Onon- 
dagas,  Cayugas,  Senecas,  Tuscaroras;  these  sold  out  to 
the  State  of  New-York,  for  two  thousand  dollars  annually, 
their  claim  to  a  large  portion  of  the  central  and  western 
part  of  this  State.  Some  reside  on  Grand  River  in  Canada, 
others  at  Buffalo,  and  some  are  gone  farther  west.  The  vil- 
lage settlement  in  the  hollow  has  two  churches,  two  mills,  an 
academy,  one  store,  three  taverns,  and  sixty  houses.  The  vi- 
cinity of  Syracuse,  only  four  miles,  and  the  great  canal,  have 
drawn  off  the  business.  There  is  also  a  Soutk  Onondaga  ten 
miles  from  Syracuse,  that  has  a  church,  a  store,  tavern,  and 
a  few  houses.     There  is  also 

Onondaga  IVest  Hill,  is  on  the  hill  that  looks  abroad  very 
extensively  over  hill  and  valley,  lake  and  city.  Here  is  a 
Presbyterian  and  Episcopal  church,  the  old  court-house,  pri- 
son, fire-proof  clerk's  office,  two  taverns,  four  stores,  and  fifty 
dwellings,  and  some  old  respectable  residents,  or  early  set- 
tlers. For  a  description  of  Syracuse,  (and  of  the  salt  works, ) 
Salina,  Liverpool,  Geddes,  and  of  the  lake,  see  canal. 


lML«wiJW!M|||||ppp9VP 


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( 


60 


Mareeltui  Creeks SJItaneatelti-- Auburn. 


Marcellus,  on  Nine  Mile  Creek,  the  outlet  of  the  Olisco  Lake 
a  few  miles  south,  and  that  is  four  miles  lung  and  one  wide, 
and  runs  into  the  Onondaga  Lake,  has  a  church,  and  seventy- 
five  or  one  hundred  hou*  v~.  The  waters  hereabout  possess 
strong  petrifying  quali  i,  and  a  specimen  may  be  seen  on 
the  bank,  of  a  large  tree  partly  imbedded  in  limestone,  by  in- 
quiring of  the  village  physician  or  minister.  There  is  an 
abundance  of  tint,  blue  limestone  of  good  quality,  and  of  the 
water  lime  or  cement,  mills,  factories,  &c.  and  two  miles 
north,  falls  of  seventy  feet. 


Skaneateles^ 

at  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  is  the  second  of  those  attractive 
lake  cities  (Cazenovia  being  the  first)  that  we  encounter 
In  traveling  this  great  western  thoroughfare.  It  contains 
four  churches,  an  academy,  and  five  grist-mills  that  can  make 
forty  thousand  barrels  of  flour  annually,  also  four  saw,  four 
carding  and  cloth-dres?ing  mills,  two  woollen  factories,  two 
furnaces  and  founderies,  two  machine-shops,  four  tanne- 
ries, two  carriage  factories,  two  taverns,  eight  stores,  three 
hundred  houses,  and  two  thousand  one  hundred  and  fifty  in- 
habitants. The  site  of  the  village  is  unsurpassed  in  its  com- 
plete commiHind  of  the  lake,  that  is  as  transparent  as  air ;  its 
banks  romantic,  picturesque,  and  rising  into  eminences  of 
several  hundred  feet  at  its  southern  termination;  it  abounds 
with  trout  in  its  deep  cool  waters,  that  reflect  like  a  mirror, 
the  hills  and  slopes,  woods,  meadows,  and  pure  white  farm 
houses.  Petrifactions  also  abound  here;  on  the  east,  and  on 
a  level  with  the  water,  are  organic  remains  of  the  cornu 
animoni;*,  imbedded  in  slate.  Three  miles  north  of  the  "out- 
let, the  creek  sinks  into  the  rocks  below  the  falls  of  seventy 
feet,  and  is  lost  for  some  distance,  but  this  is  often  the  case  in 
Florida,  and  in  limestone  countries.  The  Indian  name  of 
this  lake,  as  preserved,  means  long;  it  is  fed  by  springs,  and 
is  fifteen  miles  long  by  one  half  to  one  and  a  half  wide. 


Auburn, 

is  the  third  of  the  series  of  elegant  lake  cities ;  contains 
eight  hundred    and    fifty    houses,   and   Ave  thousand   five 


ifpiiujvJuiin[pp!fR^(yw.*>,iw'('ww'W'.^^*i|i;.pjf^^^  iijjfmmmii.w- 


AubuTMr^State  Priion. 


i\ 


hundred  and  fifty-five  inhabitants,  a  Theological  Seminary, 
eight  churches,  twenty>seven  schools,  two  banks,  capital  four 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars,  court-house,  jail,  clerk's 
office,  siiity-two  stores  of  all  kinds,  and  factories  of  tools, 
clocks,  candles,  combs,  cabinet  ware,  saddles  and  harness, 
looking-glasses,  leather  and  rnorocco,  boots  and  shoes,  hats, 
tobacco,  bellows,  burr  mill-stones,  coverlets,  carpets,  cot« 
ton-cards,  threshing  machines,  tea-kettles,  japanned  ware, 
steam-engines,  carriages.  There  are  three  bookstores  ana 
binderies,  five  merchant  tailors,  eight  blacksmiths,  three  dis- 
tilleries, one  brewery,  three  furnaces,  four  flour-mills,  one 
marble  yard,  two  livery  stables,  two  wool  carding  and  clothiers, 
one  dentist,  two  portrait  painters,  six  milliners,  five  dress  ma- 
kers. 

Auburn  is  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  lake,  but  on  the 
outlet  that  has  ample  water-power.  The  streets  are  wide, 
paved  or  macadamized,  and  there  are  iiandsome  ranges 
of  stone  and  brick  stores,  and  in  the  retired  parts  some  taste* 
ful  dwellings  and  embellished  grounds.  The  public  buildings 
built  in  1836-7-8  are  honorable  to  the  inhabitants,  and  its 
domes,  colonnades,  &c.  place  it  far  ahead  of  many  olher  west- 
ern towns.     Its  hotels  are  good. 

The  celebrated  STATE-PRISON  may  be  seen  on  buying  a 
ticket  of  the  keeper,  and  the  best  time  is  early  in  the  morning, 
when  they  are  brought  out  of  their  cells  and  arranged  in 
squads,  close  as  they  can  squeeze,  in  Indian  file,  stepping  ofil 
and  stamping  hard  with  a  simultaneous  lock-step,  eyes  to  their 
overseer,  head  erect,  each  bearing  his  pail  on  one  of  his  folded 
arms  in  perfect  silence,  entering  their  various  shops,  and  kept 
at  constant  labor  during  the  regular  hours,  till  four  o'clock 
P.  M.  when  the  muffled  bell  is  struck,  all  labor  is  suspended, 
and  the  convicts,  eight  or  nine  hundred,  return  in  the  same 
manner  to  their  cells,  and  are  separately  locked  up  for  the 
night.  The  most  minute  precision  is  required  in  all  their  move- 
ments. The  walls  that  form  the  inclosure  are  thirty-five  feet 
high,  four  thick,  and  two  thousand  feet  in  extent,  or  five  hun- 
dred feet  each  front.  The  interior  yard  has  ample  reser- 
voirs of  water,  and  a  range  of  work-shops  of  brick,  lighted 
in  the  sides  and  roof.  The  cost  was  over  three  hundred  thou- 
sand dollars,  not  including  the  convict  labor.  The  Owasco 
Creek  flows  alongside  the  prison  walls  on  the  south. 

It  is  seven  miles  to  the  Erie  Canal  at  Weed's  Basin,  and 
stage;;  ply  constantly  to  and  fro,  and  twentvtwo  miles  by  the 

6 


i 


62 


Aureliua—tthaea. 


rail-road  to  Syracuse,  there  are  great  quantities  of  gypsum, 
or  plaster  of  Paris,  quarried  on  this  route,  and  abundance  of 
the  best  lime  stone. 

Aurelius^  four  miles  west  of  Auburn,  has  two  taverns,  two 
stores,  and  twenty  houses.  Cayuga^  three  miles  further,  at 
the  foot  of  tiie  Cayuga  Lake,  has  a  church,  high  school,  three 
taverns,  four  stores,  and  forty  houses.  The  longest  bridge 
in  the  State,  it  being  one  mile  and  eight  rods,  here  extends 
over  and  across  the  lake,  and  gives  the  traveler  in  passing,  a 
satisfactory  view  of  the  lake,  and  its  highly  beautiful  and 
cultivated  shores,  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  A  steamer  runs 
to  and  from  Ithaca  daily,  from  the  bridge,  to  meet  canal-boats 
at  certain  hours.  (Travelers  intending  to  go  to  Ithiica  or 
Owego,  should,  at  Utica,  or  Syracuse,  or  at  Auburn,  where 
they  agree  to  take  the  stage,  only  pay  the  fare  to  the  Cayuga 
bridge,  and  take  the  steam-boat  for  ithaca,  and  arrive  at  the 
head  of  the  lake,  thirty-six  miles,  in  three  or  four  hours.) 
Just  before  his  arrival  there  he  will  notice  on  the  east  shore 
a  foaming  cascade  come  pouring  down  the  ledges  of  the  slate- 
rock. 

A  car  starts  on  the  rail-road  for  Owego  soon  after  the  boat 
arrives  at  Ithaca,  and  traveling  but  slowly,  gets  in  about  seven 
or  eight  o'clock;  twenty-nine  and  a  half  miles;  the  most 
defective  route  in  the  State.  Good  hotels  are  at  Ithaca,  and 
fine  views  in  the  environs,  especially  on  the  summit  of  the 
hill  overlooking  the  town,  and  lake,  and  shores,  with  its  parti- 
colored squares  of  farms  and  woods.  The  effect  of  the  dis- 
tant aerial  perspective  is  grand. 

A  stage  leaves  Ithaca  early  the  next  morning  for  Bath, 
twenty-two  miles,  at  the  head  of  the  Seneca  Lake,  and  arrives 
in  time  for  the  steam-boat  that  goes  down  for  Geneva,  unless 
the  tourist  inclines  to  remain  at  Bath,  to  breathe  a  few  hours 
and  look  around. 


Ithaca 

is  our  fourth  city  of  the  lakes.  In  front,  and  between  it 
and  the  head  of  the  lake,  are  three  thousand  acies  of  allu- 
vial flats,  from  which  the  hills  aiirend  on  three  sides,  amphi- 
theatrically,  five  hundred  feet,  with  truly  magnificent  effect, 
and  the  picturesque  character  of  the  environs  is  improved  and 
made  eminently  attractive  by  the  Fall  Creek,  the  Casca- 


Bridgeport— Seneca  Falls. 


63 


dilla,  and  Six-mile  Creeks,  that  find  their  way  over  the  hills, 
and  pay  tribute  to  the  Cayuga.  Fall  Creek  rises  in  Lock 
Pond,  Summer  Hill,  Cayuga  County,  fourteen  hundred  feet 
above  tide,  and  flows  south  and  south-west  thirty  miles,  and 
fall^,  near  Ilhaca,  within  one  mile,  four  hundred  and  thirty- 
eijg;ht  feet,  over  rocks  of  dark  gray  wacke  slate ;  this  is  best  seen 
from  the  bridge  or  steam  boat.  The  last  fall  is  one  hundred 
and  sixteen  feet,  down  asleep  succession  of  narrow  ledges  of 
rock  or  stairway  to  the  lake  level.  The  rocks  each  side  above 
the  falls,  rise  one  hundred  and  ten  feet,  and  enclose  a  pool  for 
the  mills  below,  that  is  drawn  ofif  or  tapped,  by  a  tunnel 
through  the  rock,  thirteen  feet  high,  twelve  broad,  and  two 
hundred  long,  and  is  made  to  bo  used  five  or  six  times  with  a 
twenty  feet  head  of  water.  The  Cascadilla  leaps  down  a 
gigantic  stairway  one  hundred  feet,  and  Five-mile  Creek  is 
still  more  surprising. 

There  are  five  churches,  a  court-house  and  prison,  clerk's 
office,  thirteen  mills,  four  tactories,  thirteen  taverns,  twenty- 
eight  general  stores,  many  groceries,  «lruggist  stores,  four 
printing-offices,  two  hook- stores,  one  bank,  capital  two  hun- 
dred thousand  dollars,  and  one  of  two  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  dollars,  eight  hundred  dwellings,  and  four  thousand 
inhabitants. 

Bridgeport,  at  the  west  end  of  Cayuga  bridge,  contains  a 
store,  two  taverns,  and  thirty  dwellings. 


Seneca  Falls 

is  three  miles  west  of  the  Cayuga  Lake  and  Bridge,  on  the 
Seneca  Ri"*  er,  the  outlet  of  the  Seneca  Lake,  and  where 
there  is  w^ithin  twelve  hundred  yards,  a  heavy  water-power 
of  forty-«even  feet  over  four  dams.  In  seven  flour  mills  are 
twcnty-fouT  runs  of  stones  that  make  eighty- five  thousand 
barrel  <s  flour.  Of  other  millsj  are  one  for  paper,  six  saw, 
four  piaster,  three  clove,  and  two  oil,  one  clothing  works, 
one  clock  and  one  cotton  factory,  dyeing  and  bleaching,  one 
furnace,  three  sash  and  window-blind  factories,  one  tannery, 
one  dist  llery,  one  machine  shop,  lour  taverns,  six  lawyers, 
five  physicians,  twenty  stores,  five  hundred  dwellings,  and 
three  thousand  five  hundred  Inhabitants ;  five  churches,  a 
newspaper  and  printing-office,  an  academy.  In  1827,  only 
two  hundred  and  sixty-five  inhabitants.     Land  sells  fifty  to 


■ ..' 


M 


Waterloo— Geneva. 


seventy  dollars  the  acre.  The  water  power  can  drive  two 
hundred  thousand  spindles.  At  Chamberlain's  MillSf  two 
miles  from  the  above  town,  and  one  from  Waterloo,  is  a 
flouring  and  plaster  mill,  and  fifteen  houses.  The  lively 
aspect  of  the  town  of  Seneca  Falls  strikes  the  stranger  most 
favorably,  and  denotes  that  from  its  water-power  and  manu* 
facturing  propensities  here  is  destined  to  be  a  flourishing  vi- 
cinity, a  wealthy  and  comfortable  population. 


l¥aterloo, 

four  miles  from  Seneca,  is  also  on  the  river  or  outlet  of  Se ' 
neca  Lake,  and  has  three  grist,  t'.vo  oil,  two  saw- mills,  two 
distilleries,  one  furnace  for  castings,  two  tanneries,  three 
clothiers,  pail,  tub,  churn,  and  wooden  bowl  factory,  one 
ashery,  one  boat-yard,  one  newspaper,  two  large  hotels,  three 
taverns,  twelve  dry-goods,  and  one  hardware  store,  court- 
house, jail,  six  lawyers,  five  physicians,  three  hundred  and 
fifty  houses,  three  churches,  two  thousand  inhabitants.  This 
is  also  an  active,  bustling  place.  Seven  miles  to  the  west,  we 
arrive  at 


Geneva, 


!     / 


» 


following  the  northern  shore,  and  crossing  the  outlet  or  drain 
of  the  lake,  where  there  is  a  strong  current  issuing  out,  of 
clear,  green,  pure  water. 

The  land  between  the  Cayuga  and  Seneca  Lakes  rises  into 
very  lofty  hills,  and  is  capital  soil  for  wheat,  but  liable  to 
drought,  &c.  From  the  roads  skirting  each  lake,  and  sur- 
mounting the  hills,  are  a  series  of  splendid  views.  There  are 
eight  churches.  The  Geneva  College  is  under  the  regents  of  the 
University  of  the  State  of  New-York,  and  has  a  President,  a  Pro- 
fessor of  Mathematics  and  Natural  Philosophy,  of  the  French, 
German,  and  Spanish,  of  Chemistry  and  Mineralogy,  and  appli- 
cation to  Agriculture  and  Arts,  of  Engineering  and  Statistics, 
beisi'ies  two  tutors.  There  is  a  Medical  department,  with  Pro- 
fessors of  Chemistry,  Anatomy,  and  Physiology,  of  Instruction 
and  Practice  of  Medicine,  of  Surgery,  of  Obstetrics  and  Ma- 
teria Medica,  and  of  Medical  Jurisprudence,  and  Botany.  Not 
confined  to  classics.    Students  fifty-three.    Buildings  of  stone. 


Geneva* 


65 


There  is  a  bank  Avith  four  hundred  thousand  dollars  capital, 
three  hundred  and  seventy-four  dwellings,  and  three  thousand 
inhabitants,  twenty-three  stores,  twenty  store-houses,  seventy* 
three  workshops,  sixteen  steam  grist,  one  saw  mill,  one  air 
furnace,  two  machine  shops,  one  steam-engine  factory,  fifteen 
dry  goods,  five  drugs,  two  hardware,  twelve  groceries,  nine 
taverns,  nine  shoe  makers'  stores,  five  tailors,  nine  smiths,  two 
confectionaries,  one  edge  tool,  three  saddlers,  four  carriage 
makert^,  two  chair  makers,  four  silver  smiths,  one  plough,  two 
threshing  machine  factories,  one  burr  millstone,  two  tin,  one 
rifle,  one  lead  pipe  and  metal  pump,  one  sash,  and  three  hat 
factories  and  stores,  five  cabinet  makers,  one  artist,  two  print- 
ing-offices and  papers,  two  book  stores,  two  binderies,  one 
museum,  eleven  law,  and  one  insurance  office,  six  milliners, 
two  hay  scales,  two  bakers,  one  upholsterer,  one  tallow  chand- 
ler, one  stocking  weaver,  one  auction  store,  three  barbers,  a 
young  ladies'  school,  three  grammar  schools,  two  district  and 
seven  common,  and  s'x  hundred  pupils. 

Geneva,  our  fifth  lake  city,  is  situated  at  the  north- west  cor- 
ner of  Seneca  Lake,  on  a  fine  slope,  giving  the  inhabitants  a 
noble  view  of  the  lake,  and  those  residing  on  the  east  side 
of  the  street  have  terraced  gardens  <lown  to  the  lake,  that 
have  an  admirable  effect.  The  rest  of  the  town  is  on  a  summit 
one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  above  the  lake,  giving  a  view 
to  all,  as  it  rises  in  gradations,  and  covered  with  neat  villas 
and  seats,  court-yards,  gardens,  &,c.  The  compact  part  is  on 
lower  ground.  F'amilies  enjoying  wealth  and  leisure  find 
this  a  desirable  residence.  A  steam-boat  leaves  this  place 
daily,  at  7  A-  M.,  for  the  south  or  head  of  the  lake,  JefTer- 
Bonville,  and  is  back  at  night.  During  the  lake  trip,  observe 
on  the  east  shore,  the  town  of  Ovid  on  the  height  of  land, 
eighteen  miles,  and  the  capital  farms  occupying  the  hills  far 
nsthe  eye  can  reach  ;  and  opposite  is  Dresden,  where  the  wa- 
ters of  the  crooked  lake  come  in  from  the  west,  and  where 
that  female  humbug,  Jemima  Wilkittson,  had  her  farm  and 
her  followers,  as  all  fanatics  in  this  country  can  readily  pro- 
cure Mormons  and  Matthias,  &c.  Long,  or  Elephant  Point,  is 
four  miles  south.  In  six  miles  south  is  Jemima's  walk  in  or 
on  the  wafer  place  of  exhibition,  and  in  six  miles  south  is 
Starkie's  Point,  witii  deep  water  close  in  shore,  and  in  four 
miles  more,  a  fall  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-six  feet,  and  in  a 
ravme  still  farther,  is  a  fall  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in 
the  town  of  Hector,  three  miles  from  Jeffersonville.    The 

6* 


66 


Canandaigua. 


lake  is  ice-proof,  or  «o  deep  that  it  never  freezes,  but  steami 
it  profusely  in  cold  weather. 

From  Geneva  is  a  branch  canal  of  fifteen  miles  to  the  Erie 
Canal.  Wheat,  barley,  wool,  whiskey,  beef  and  pork,  pearl 
and  potashes,  butter,  flour,  lumber,  glass,  and  grass  sieed,  are 
bought  up  here  for  eastern  markets.  Eight  miles  west  of 
Geneva  is  Flint  Creek,  running  north  into  the  Canandaigua 
outlet  at  Vienna,  eight  miles  north  ;  and  in  seven  miles  from 
Flint  Creek  is 

Canandai§fua, 


our  sixth  lake  city,  contains  three  thousand  inhabitants, 
and  five  hundred  dwellings,  Bome  of  them  not  exceeded 
in  style  or  good  taste  in  architecture  by  any  city  or  place 
whatever.  The  great  charm  and  most  attractive  feature 
in  this  suburban  villa,  is  the  embowered  and  rural  aspect, 
the  neatness  of  the  front  yards,  and  of  the  ample  gardens, 
pleasure  grounds,  walks,  shrubberies,  shaded  and  paved 
streets  and  side-walks,  and  all  those  agreeables  denoting  com- 
fort, good  society,  and  wealth.  It  is  on  two  lung  parallel 
streets,  north  and  south,  and  others  at  right  angles.  Has  four 
churchex,  an  academy  for  males,  and  one  for  females ;  the 
former  edifice  is  eighty  by  forty,  three  stories  high  ;  expense 
of  tuition,  board,  &.C.  one  hundred  dollars  per  annum.  School 
teachers  are  educated  and  taught.  The  Ontario  bank  with  a 
capital  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars,  a  branch  oi 
the  Ulica  b.ink  with  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars^ 
eight  public  houses,  including  two  large  hotels,  Blossoms'  and 
Pitts',  three  fire  companies,  seventeen  law  offices,  ten  physi- 
cians, two  book-stores,  three  printing-offices  and  papers,  six< 
teen  stores  of  all  trades,  two  hat  and  two  tin  factories,  one  gun 
smith,  a  steam  grist,  and  a  windmill,  a  furnace  for  castings, 
two  tanneries,  one  brewery,  two  asheries.  There  is  a  fine 
view  of  the  lake  from  all  parts  of  the  town.  The  lake  it 
fourteen  miles  long,  and  one  and  a  half  to  two  broad;  hat 
a  steam-boat  that  trips  it  daily  for  the  accommodation  of  thf 
public  and  of  strangers.  The  Burning  Springs  are  on  eacl 
side  of  the  lake,  three  miles  off,  and  in  Bristol,  eight  miles 
south-east  from  Canandaigua,  and  also  one  to  two  miles 
eouth-west  of  Rushville,  in  a  long  valley,  and  in  winter  they 
form  openings  in  the  snow,  and  the  fire  being  applied,  the 


Rochester. 


67 


novel  flight  of  a  flame  rising  out  of  the  snow  is  witnessed,  and 
in  very  cold  weather,  tubes  of  ice  are  ibrmed  around  these 
currents  of  gas  to  the  height  of  tv/a  or  three  feet,  the  gas  is* 
suing  frum  their  tops,  and  when  lighted,  more  brilliant  than 
the  former.  <     > 


Kocliester, 


twenty-seven  miles  from  Canandaigua,  in  a  north-west  direc- 
tion, can  be  visited  by  stage  and  the  rail- road*  taken  for  thirty- 
two  miles  thence  to  Batavia ;  or  the  traveler  can  take  the  canal 
to  Lockport,  and  see  the  wonders  there,  the  huge  double 
locks,  the  grand  natural  basin,  and  the  deep  rock  excavation  of 
several  miles,  and  by  rail- road  thence  to  Niagara  Falls,  or  con- 
tinue on  by  canal  through  the  entire  route  once,  and  take  some 
other  method  in  returning.  Whichever  way  may  be  adopted, 
we  shall  perfect  our  stage  route,  however,  west  of  Canandai- 
gua,  nnd  after  crossing  two  small  streams  running  north,  in 
nine  miles  we  arrive  at  East  Bloomfidd,  with  its  two  churches, 

*■  7\)nnatDanta  Rail-road  was  constructed  in  the  following  cheap  and 
•implfl  manner :  "  Large  posts  of  twenty-four  or  thirty  inches  in  diameter 
were  placed  on  each  side  of  the  track  opposite  to  each  other,  and  to 
enter  tlie  earth  firm  and  hard,  to  sustain  the  side  timbers  of  the  track,  and 
squared  at  the  top.    Each  set  of  posts  ten  feet  apart.    Upon  the  top  of 
these  posts  were  laid  transversely,  sticks  of  timber  twelve  or  fifteen  inches 
in  diameter,  mortised  on  the  upper  side  near  each  end,  to  receive  the  lon- 
gitudinal timbers,  that,  being  t'tom  sixteen  to  twenty  inches  in  diameter, 
hewed  only  on  the  upper  side,  and  intended  for  the  support  of  each  of 
the  rails,  were  let  iiilo  the  mortises  of  the  transverse  timbers,  and  sup- 
ported by  them  at  the  posts.    This,  where  embankments  were  made,  gives 
a  very  substantial  frame-work  of  the  proper  grade.    On  the  top  of  the 
longitudinal  timbers,  wooden  ribbons,  as  a  substitute  fur  iron  rails,  were 
laid.    Rail-road  cars  were  procured  to  carry  earth,  with  four  bo.xes  each, 
turning  on  hinges,  to  drop  the  earth  between  and  over  the  sides  of  the 
rails.    These  cars  were  loaded  at  places  of  excavation,  moved  by  horse- 
power on  the  track  to  make  embankments.    The  .mme  frame-work  was 
used  and  put  down  where  excavations  were  made.    When  the  road  was 
finally  prepared  for  operations,  pine  scantling,  three  by  four  inches,  were 
laid  on  the  longitudinal  timbers,  and  ironplate  rail  on  the  scantling,  and 
all  securely  fastened  by  heavy  spikes  seven  inches  long."  In  a  country  like 
this,  abounding  in  timber,  this  is  the  most  economical,  but  not  durable. 
The  uhole  timber  work,  except  the  scantling,  is  covered  mth  earth  to  pre- 
vent decay,  and  the  frame-r/ork  and  earth  add  mutual  support  and 
strength.    This  does  well,  and  if  cars  run  off  the  traek,  they  are  received 
on  the  ground,  and  not  or  cross  timbers. 


Ip  Avo7t  Springs — Ce  Roy. 

two  taverns,  two  stores,  thirty  houses,  one  tannery,  situated 
on  high  and  commanding  ground,  and  having  the  most  cele- 
brated farms  *«iid  choice  tviient  lands.  Five  miles  bryond,  we 
reach  West  Bloomfield,  and  in  a  mile  we  cross  the  Honeoye 
Creek,  the  combined  outlet  of  tliree  small  lakes  at  eight  or  len 
miles  south,  that  runs  into  the  Genesee  River,  and  in  four  miles 
we  arrive  at  Lima;  the  whole  distance  from  East  Bloomfield 
being  through  farms  in  first-rate  order,  fence,  and  keeping.  To 
East  Avon  five,  and  the  Post  Office  two  miles  more  from  Lima, 
passing  the  notoriously  rich  valley  of  the  Genesee  FlnlSy  and 
ten  miles  south,  the  IVadsworth  Farm  at  Geneseo,  and  Mount 
Morris,  (for  the  falls  of  Genesee,  also  for  the  !lnc  of  the 
canal  extending  from  Rochester  south,  up  the  Genesee  Val- 
ley, see  index.) 

The  two  Avon  Springs  rise  within  an  eighth  of  a  mile  from 
each  other,  about  a  mile  south  of  the  village.  It  is  usf*ful  for 
its  sulphureous  qualities.  Here  are  three  boarding-houses, 
much  resorted  to  by  the  country  people;  a  remarkable  pond 
encloining  Indian  works,  and  a  root  that  is  peculiar  to  the  flats 
her<^  of  gigantic  size,  may  be  worth  inquiring  for. 

After  crossing;  the  Genesee  River  on  a  substantial  bridge, 
the  road  varies  its  course  to  the  north-west,  and  in  eight  miles 
we  arrive  at  the  Big  Spring  at  Caledonia,  that  must  be  seen  as 
it  Is  near  at  hand,  and  ia  quite  an  anomaly  in  its  way,  bursting 
ouf  a  ful!  grown  mill-race.  This  is  probably  the  lost  water  from 
Allen's  Creek  at  the  high  falls  in  Le  Roy,  seven  miles  west, 
and  thpy  rejoin  that  stream  in  two  or  three  miles  north  in 
Wheatland.  A  stnge  runs  from  this  to  Hochesler,  twenty 
miles  north-east.  Here  are  two  Presbyterian  churches,  four 
taverns,  fo^ir  stores,  one  flouring  and  one  saw  mill,  one 
brewery,  and  sixty  houses. 


■■:■'■'-■    L.C  Roy,  -•■'•'  -"  - 

on  an  eminence  on  Allen's  Creek,  !s  our  next  agreeable- 
looking  settlement  in  six  miles  from  the  Big  Spring,  and 
here  are  the  falls  that  supply  it  through  apertures  in  the 
lirrte-stone  rock  ihat  prevails  in  this  region.  Here  are  four 
chhrches,  two  large  niill«,  each  with  fo;ir  runs  of  stones,  and 
making  forty  thousand  barrels  of  flour  per  annum,  one  oil 
and  one  plaster  mill,  a  furnace  for  castings,  a  tanniery,  a  ma- 
chine factory,  fifteen  stores,  three  taverns,  four  lawyers,  five 


Batavia, 


69 


doctore,  fifteen  hundred  inhabitants,  two  hundred  and  fifty 
houses  of  stone,  with  gardens  and  grounds  on  a  liberal  scale, 
and  very  pleasing  to  the  stranger.  The  land  office  for  the 
triangular  tract  is  here.  The  fall  here  in  Allen's  Creek  is 
eighteen  feet,  and  in  one  mile,  twenty-seven  feet  more,  and 
in  two  miles  is  one  of  eighty  feet.  The  creek  at  Le  Roy  has 
a  stone  bridge  of  three  arches.  Beyond  this  creek  we  enter 
on  the  great  plain  of  the  west,  throwing  off  streams  on  all 
sides.  Look  for  more  petrifactions  on  the  bed  of  the  creek 
six  hundred  feel  north  of  the  bridge. 


Batavia, 

ten  miles  from  Le  Roy,  is  situated  on  the  Tonnewanta 
Creek;  and  is  tho  first  stream  that  we  have  thus  far  en- 
countered that  pays  its  tribute  to  the  Niagara  above  the  Falls. 
The  stream  pursues  a  course  from  east  to  west,  on  an  ele> 
vated  rocky  plateau,  about  four  hundred  feet  higher  than 
Lake  Ontario,  and  seventy  or  eighty  above  Lake  Erie.  The 
highest  terrace  in  the  southern  part  of  Genesee  County  ia 
eight  hundred  feet  above  Lake  Ontario,  consequently  rises 
four  huii<f  red  feet  in  thirty-five  miles,  less  than  twelve  feet  to 
the  mile,  and  not  perceptible  to  the  eye,  being  almost  a  dead 
level,  and  having  barely  descent  to  drain  the  country.  The 
elevation  is  by  ridges,  as  is  seen  by  the  streams  cutting 
through  the  rock  to  the  n  'Kh.  From  this  elevated  plateau 
the  drain  to  the  west  is  ti  Lake  £r«e;  on  the  east  to  the 
Genesee  R'ver,  and  on  the  so'^th  to  Cattaraugus  Creek.  The 
Tonnawanijt  has  a  meandering  course  of  forty  miies  in  a 
valley  two  to  four  miles  wide. 

Here  ore  three  churches,  a  land  office,  a  bank,  capital  one 
hundred  thousand  dollars,  a  flouring  mill  with  four  runs  of 
stones,  three  large  brick  hotels  and  five  taverns,  twelve  dry- 
good,  two  hardware,  two  drug,  and  one  bookstore  and  bindery, 
two  printing-offices  and  papers,  a  bell  foundery  and  gunsmith, 
two  tanneries,  two  batteries,  three  millineries,  four  shoe-stores, 
cne  iron  foundery,  five  physicinas.  nine  law  offices,  three  hun- 
dred houses,  or^  '  '>usand  six  hundred  and  fifty  inhabitants. 
Lands  within  tf-f;;  .ilesof  the  village  sell  from  twenty  to  forty 
dollars  the  acre,  v  'il-road  of  thirty-two  miles,  called  theTon- 
eawanta,  exteno^  ' .  Rochester,  and  others  to  Bufialo  and  Lock- 
port  will  soon  be  finished.     Here  are  many  neat  residences  of 


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the  wealthy  lAnd-owners  of  the  vicinity.  The  less  that  is  said 
about  the  masonic  murder  of  Morgan,  or  of  his  abduction,  or 
of  the  miserable  log  or  corduroy  roads  from  this  to  the  west, 
the  better,  as,  when  the  rail-road  is  completed,  as  it  soon 
will  be  on  the  entire  route,  all  old  grievances  will  be  forgotten. 
Eait  Pembroke  post-office  is  six  miles  west  from  Batavia. 
West  Pembroke  post-office  is  at  Richville,  eight  miles  farther, 
Clarence  Hollow^  or  Kenaent  Grove^  has  a  cliurch,  forty  houses, 
one  ashery,  one  grist  and  saw-mill,  one  distillery,  one  tannery, 
two  taverns,  five  stores,  three  groceries.  WilliamsvUle,  ten 
miles  north-east  of  BuflTalo,  has  a  Catholic  Chnrch,  a  grist, 
saw,  and  water  lime  mill,  and  a  quarry  of  ^  same,  fifty 
houses,  four  groceries,  one  dry  goods,  two  tave.ns,  one  tan- 
nery. 


Biiflfalo, 


^ 


the  queen  of  the  lake  cities,  is  admirably  situated  at  the 
outlet  of  Lake  Ti^rie,  and  at  the  head  of  the  Niagara  river, 
and  at  the  western  extremity  of  the  Grand  Erie  Canai. 
There  is  a  rail  road  of  eighteen  miles  leading  to  Niagara 
Falls,  and  a  series  of  rail-roads  to  Batavia,  Rochester,  and 
from  Auburn  to  Syracuse,  Utica,  Schenectady,  Albany. 
1  /om  the  terrace  the  land  rises  by  a  very  gentle  acclivity  for 
two  miles  to  a  level  plain,  presenting  a  wide  and  enchanting 
view  of  the  lake,  the  Niagara  River,  the  canal,  and  its 
branches,  the  city  and  the  Canada  shore.  The  streets  are 
broad,  and  intersect  usually  at  right  angles.  There  are 
three  public  squares,  a  bank,  and  some  airy  wide  streets,  with 
neat  villas,  court-yards  and  gardens,  a  lyceum  and  library. 
The  Erie  Canal  is  continued  along  the  entire  lake  in  front  of 
the  city  to  Little  Buffalo  Creek,  with  frequent  lateral  cuts  and 
basins,  bringing  all  the  lower  part  of  the  city  in  reach  of  the 
canal  facilities. 

A  mole  or  pier  of  wood  and  stone,  of  fifteen  hundred  feet 
long,  extends  f.om  the  south  side  of  the  creek,  out  into  the 
lake,  so  as  to  form  a  partial  break-water,  to  protect  boats 
and  shipping  from  the  violent  gales  that  are  felt,  though  still- 
water  is  made  fc  a  mile  on  the  creek,  and  a  ship  canal 
eighty  feet  wide,  and  thirteen  deep,  and  seven  hundred  yards 
long,  is  also  now  made.  A  light-house  on  the  hdad  of  the 
pier,  of  dressed  yellowish  lime-stone,  forty-six  feet  high  and 


1        / 


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Buffalo. 


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twenty  iu  diameter  at  the  base ;  is  a  durable  structure,  and  or- 
namental to  the  city.  The  cost  of  the  pier,  &c.  was  about 
one  hundred  thousand  dollars,  seven-eighths  being  paid  by 
the  United  States. 

Buffalo  is  the  port  of  entry  for  the  J^iagara  District,  in- 
cluding Silver  Creek,  Dunkirk,  and  Portland,  and  all  above 
the  Falls.  It  is  the  dep6t  of  the  trade  for  the  upper  lakes, 
Michigan,  Wisconsin,  Iowa,  and  part  of  Illinois,  Indiana,  and 
Ohio,  including  a  lake  coast  of  5,719  miles. 

The  city  has  twenty-five  tKbusand  inhabitants,  three  thou- 
sand houses,  one  hundred  and  fifty-two  streets,  fiflteen 
churches,  two  seminaries,  many  district  and  select  schools, 
two  theatres,  a  court-house,  jail,  two  hundred  stores,  three 
banks,  aggregate  capital  one  million,  many  hotels  and  tav- 
ems,  six  newspapers,  and  a  great  variety  of  manufactories. 
It  is  divided  into  five  wards,  and  has  a  mayor  and  common 
council  that  are  elected  annually.  Its  streets  are  paved,  re- 
gular, and  laid  out  in  reference  to  the  natural  slopes ;  a  por- 
tion of  it  that  was  formerly  low  and  marshy  near  the  creek 
and  lake  is  liable  to  bo  submerged  during  violent  storms. 

The  buildings  are  in  general  decent,  some  are  splendid, 
and  the  stores  recently  erected  are  four  and  five  stories  high. 
Nearly  two-thirds  of  the  merchandise  received  at  Bufialo 
goes  no  farther,  being  for  the  use  of  the  city  and  vicinity. 
Sixty  mails  arrive  and  depart  weekly.  Postage  in  1835,  twenty 
thousand  eight  hundred  and  eighty-one  dollars.  The  amount 
invested  by  her  citizens  in  steam-boats,  and  lake  vessels, 
canal-boats,  &c.  about  one  million;  advances  on  freight  and 
produce  passing  east  and  west,  two  millions;  manufactures 
yearly,  two  millions;  and  sales  in  addition,  one  million  seven 
hundred  and  forty-eight  thousand  seven  hundred  dollars ;  ex- 
pended in  building  in  a  year,one  million  one  hundred  and  thirty 
thousand  dollars ;  arrivals  and  departure  of  vessels  in  1835,  in 
two  hundred  and  ten  days  was  seven  hundred  and  twenty 
steam-boats  each  way ;  other  vessels,  nine  hundred  and  twenty 
each  way;  canal  clearances,  five  thousand  one  hundred  and 
twenty-six  ;  tolls  received,  one  hundred  and  five  thousand  six 
hundred  and  sixty-three  dollars.     The  University  of  Western 
New- York  is  here  established  on  a  liberal  foundation,  by  en- 
dowments or  donations  to  the  amount  o(^  two  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  dollars.     The  terrible  revulsion  and  derangement 
of  the  currency  in  1837  prostrated  for  a  time  the  energies 
and  growth  of  this  place. 


72 


Mi. 


Buffalo— Seneea  Reurvation, 


The  town  was  oriffinally  laid  out  in  1801  by  the  Holland 
Land  Company,  on  the  hill  or  terrace,  fifty  feet  above  the 
lake,  and  in  part  on  the  low  ground  or  marsh  towards  the 
lake  and  creek.  The  draining  of  the  marsh  has  rendered 
it  fit  for  building,  and  it  is  now  the  business  part  of  the  city. 

The  Lake  E^ie  boats  leave  at  regular  intervals  in  the  morn- 
ing and  at  night.  Boats  are  despatched  to  the  Upper  Lakes 
as  often  as  the  case  requires.  At  each  port  suflScient  time  is 
allowed  to  take  in  freight  and  provide  every  luxury  for  paa- 
sengers.  The  prices  are,  to  Cleveland,  in  the  cabin,  six  dol- 
lars ;  steerage,  two  dollars  fifty  cents.  Detroit,  eight  dollars; 
steerage,  three  dollars. 

The  prices  of  freight,  charged  ^ ; 

From  Buffalo  to  Chicago,  Light,  per  100  lbs.    87^  cents. ' 


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30  a  46     " 


Heavy,  **  «2J 

Barrel  bulk,  $1  50 

Silver  Creek,  Dunkirk,  and 

Barcelona,  25  a  35 

Erie,  Grand  River,  and 

Cleveland, 
Ports  above  Cleveland, 
to  Detroit, 

Durine  one  week  twenty-seven  steamers  and  thirty  eight 
brigs  and  schooners  entered  the  harbor  of  Buffalo,  bringing 
/  forty-four  thousand  two  hundred  and  seventy-four  bushels 
'  wheat ;  fifteen  thousand  nine  hundred  and  eight  barrels  flour ; 
one  thousand  four  hundred  and  twenty-five  barrels  pork ;  two 
thousand  six  hundred  and  fifteen  bushels  corn ;  two  hundred 
and  filly  casks  ashes ;  seven  hundred  and  nineteen  hides ; 
fifty-seven  bates  of  buffalo  robes  and  deer  skins — ^besides  im- 
mense quantities  of  fish,  glass,  brooms,  staves,  he.  The  busi- 
ness of  the  canal  is  great ;  frequently  thirty  boats  arrive  in 
one  day,  and  sixty  are  cleared  from  the  collector's  office  for 
the  east — all  well  loaded. 

The  Seneea  Reservation  has  nine  hundred  Indians,  including 
some  Onondagas  and  Cayugas,  is  from  three  to  foui*  miles 
south-east  of  Buffalo,  and  is  eighteen  miles  by  seven  on 
Buffalo  Creek  and  its  branches,  and  amounts  to  forty-nine 
thousand  acres,  fertile  and  reaching  near  the  city  bounds. 
North  of  the  reserve,  the  average  price  of  improved  farms  is 
twenty-five  dollars,  and  south,  twenty  dollars  the  acre.  With- 
in five  miles  from  the  city,  they  are  ft-om  one  hundred  to 
three  hundred  dollars  per  acre,  caused  by  the  Indian  lands 


i 


Vrand  htand^Blaek  Rock. 


73 


not  coming  into  market,  and  bjr  the  vicinity  of  the  lake  re- 
stricting  the  lands  in  that  direction.  * 

Limestone  lies  in  deep  horizontal  stratified  masses  on  the 
banks  of  the  Niagara,  between  Buffalo  and  Black  Rock.  Bird 
Island,  opposite  Black  Rock,  is  a  naked  rock  frequently  un- 
der water.  Squaw  Island,  at  the  foot  of  the  Black  Rock  ra- 
pids, contains  one  hundred  and  thirty-one  acres.  Strawberry 
Island,  one  hundred  acres.  Beaver  Island,  thirty  acres.  Rat- 
tlesnake Island,  forty-eight  acres.  Tonnawanta  Island,  sixty- 
nine  acres.  Cayuga  Island,  Buckhorn  Island,  QotU  or  IrU 
Island,  seventy-five  acres.  ^ 

Gr€.nd  Island  (Owanungah)  begins  five  miles  from  the 
lake,  and  measures  around  its  edge  twelve,  and  in  width 
three  to  six  miles,  and  ends  three  from  the  Falls ;  contains 
seventeen  thousand  three  hundred  and  eighty-four  acres 
covered  with  oak  of  the  first  quality  for  ship  building.  A 
•company  from  Boston  now  own  it,  and  have  a  village  called 
White  Haven,  of  fifty  families  and  two  hundred  workmen, 
opposite  the  mouth  of  Tonnawanta  Creek,  and  a  steam,  grist 
and  saw  mill,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  square,  and  room  for 
fifteen  gangs  of  saws;  many  workshops,  a  school,  and 
church*,  a  long  wharf  and  timber  dock.  Frames  of  ships  are 
selected  and  sent  to  the  sea-board,  employing  fiAy  canal- 
boats  and  several  sloops.  The  steam-boats  from  Buffalo  touch 
here  to  Chippewa  and  the  Falls;  and  the  ferry  over  this 
branch  of  the  Niagara  is  one  hundred  rods  wide.  The  is- 
land is  alluvial,  and  is  a  bed  of  blue  clay  forty-seven  feet 
deep,  far  as  penetrated,  in  which  are  found  water-worn  stones, 
but  no  water  ;  that  from  the  river  being  used. 

Black  Rock  is  three  miles  north  of  Buffalo,  opposite  Wa- 
terloo and  Fort  Erie,  in  Canada.  The  river  is  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile  wide,  and  runs  with  a  current  of  six  miles  an 
hour,  and  is  twenty  feet  deep.  Ferriage  twenty-five  cents. 
Tire  water  is  of  a  sea-green  color,  pure,  and  clear,  and 
sprightly,  almost  sparkling ;  and  from  Black  Rock  to  the  Falls 
the  banks  are  eight  to  ten  feet  above  the  river,  and  a  plain  ex- 
tends on  all  sides,  and  the  river  is  not  much  below  the  level  of 
the  bank  between  Grand  Island  and  the  main,  and  at  the  Ton- 
nawanta. The  harbor  of  Black  Rock  is  four  thousand  five 
hundred  and  sixty-five  yards  long  from  south  to  north,  and 
from  eighty-eight  to  two  hundred  and  twenty  yards  broad,  or 
one  hundred  and  thirty-six  acres  of  surface.  It  begins  in 
the  lake  nt  Bird  Island,  and  is  continued  by  a  mole  of  double 


mmmmmmm 


74 


Fori  ScUoiSer^Naty  Island, 


wooden  cribs  filled  in  with  stone,  eighteen  feet  wide,  and  ivr(f 
thousand  nine  hundred  and  fifteen  yards  to  Squaw  Island^ 
raised  from  one  to  four  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river^ 
rising  gradually  towards  the  north,  and  is  continued  acrossr 
the  Island  one  thousand  four  hundred  and  thirty  yards,  to  r 
dam  one  hundred  and  nizty-five  yards  long,  that  connects  the 
island  with  the  main,  and  raises  the  water  in  the  harbor  four 
and  a  half  feet  to  the  lake  level,  and  has  a  lock  to  pass  ves« 
sels  out  and  in.  The  depth  of  water  in  the  harbor,  fifteen 
feet;  the  medial  distance  from  the  shore  to  Squaw  Island  is 
forty,  and  the  mole  uniting  the  islands,  sixteen  rods.  The 
harbor  forms  part  of  the  canal  that  leaves  it  opposite  Bird 
Island,  and  passes  into  Bufialo.  From  the  head  of  the  wa- 
ter at  the  dam,  four  and  a  half  feet,  great  water-power  is 
available,  and  here  are  four  flouring  mills  with  twenty-five  run» 
of  stones,  one  grist  mill,  two  saw,  a  stave,  carding,  and  full- 
ing mill,  one  iron  foundery,  and  steam  engine  manufactory. 
a  distillery,  and  grinding  mill,  a  saw  and  shingle  mill,  and 
the  unemployed  power  here  is  enough  to  drive  one  hundred 
mills.  There  are  five  stores,  five  taverns,  and  three  hundred 
and  fifty  dwellings,  and  two  thousand  one  hundred  inhabitants. 
A  team  ferry-boat  plies  across  to  Waterloo. 

Fort  Sehlosser  was  a  stockade  erected  by  the  British  in  the 
War  of  1766-9,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Niagara  River,  at  the 
mouth  of  Gill  Creek,  one  mile  and  a  half  above  the  Niagara 

/  Falls  village,  and  just  above  the  commencement  of  the  rapids. 
This  is  the  upper-landing  place  for  the  portage  around  the 
Falls,  to  Lewiston  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  ridge,  seven 
miles  at  the  lower  landing  in  Niagara  River.  The  ridge  itself 
is  three  hundred  and  fifty  or  sixty  feet  above  the  river,  and 
twenty-five  feet  higher  than  the  land  at  Sehlosser,  and  is  the 
highest  land  between  the  Tonnawanta  and  Ontario.  The  fort 
was  surrendered  to  the  United  States  by  the  British  in  1796. 
It  has  recently  become  notorious  for  the  capture  and  destruc- 
tion of  the  steam-boat  Caroline,  (that  was  moored  at  this 
wharf,)  by  a  detachment  of  British  soldiers  and  seamen  from 
Chippewa,  that  cut  her  loose,  after  killing  those  that  resisted, 
towed  her  out  in  the  current,  when  she  was  sucked  into  the 

I  rapids,  and  went  over  the  falls. 

Navy  Island  contains  three  hundred  acres,  is  of  a  shape 
nearly  triangular,  and  is  the  first  island  between  the  grand 
rapids  and  Grand  Island,  and  being  nearest  to  the  Canadian 

i  shore,  and  west  of  the  main  channel  of  the  Niagj^a,  it  is  at- 


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"  i'"i  "-'■*--"  i^^tiffMEfifMyiiii'^r  iT  '"'i 


Niagara  Falh. 


T6 


tached  to  Upper  Cannda,  the  boundary  line  between  the  Uni- 
ted States  and  Canada  being  in  the  middle  of  the  main  chan- 
nel from  lake  to  lake.  The  recent  military  occupation  of 
this  island  in  the  winter  and  spring  of  1838,  for  a  short  period 
during  the  disturbances  in  Canada  and  along  the  frontier  of 
the  United  States,  by  a  lawless  band  of  outlaws  and  despera- 
does, has  given  this  small  island  more  celebrity  or  notoriety 
than  it  deserves  from  its  fearful  position  a  few  hundred  yards 
above  the  grand  cataract.  Below  this,  and  to  Goat  Jsland,  and 
from  Chippewa  over  to  Schlosser,  a  distance  of  two  and  a  half 
miles,  any  boat  venturing  impiously  to  intrude  upon  the  green 
and  glassy  surface  of  the  alluring  stream,  will  be  drawn  into 
the  rapids,  and  swept  down  to  inevitable  destruction. 

Above  the  Rafids^  the  two  branches  of  the  Niagara  River 
that  enclose  Grand  Island  and  the  other  small  islets,  come 
sweeping  down  with  infinite  grandeur,  and  unite  their  waters 
for  the  last  time  previous  to  their  absorption  into  the  angry 
confusion  of  the  surge  and  rocks  that  form  tho  rapids.  The  mo- 
tion of  the  immense  ocean  of  waters  is  grand,  is  magnificent, 
full  of  its  conscious  power,  and  profound  and  overwhelming 
influence,  advancing  with  increased  impetus  to  the  brink  of 
the  first  shelf  of  the  descent,  when  the  entire  breadth  of  the 
river,  about  thirteen  thousand  feet,  is  received  into  the  rocky 
glen  or  rapid  slope,  and  sinks  from  ledge  to  ledge,  arrayed  in 
huge  and  wild  masses  to  receive  the  shock  of  this  tumbling 
ocean  in  its  passage  over  a  sloping  distance  or  inclined  plane 
of  perhaps  four  thousand  feet,  and  of  only  fifty-five  of  actual 
descent,  but  the  impregnable  and  immovable  rocky  asperities 
of  the  underlying  rocky  foundation  are  such  as  to  raise,  toss, 
scatter,  and  part  this  phalanx  of  waters  into  an  infinite  va- 
riety of  jeds,  cascades,  and  forms  of  beauty  and  sublimity 
ever  new,  changeable,  and  wonderful.  To  the  uninitiated  and 
unreflecting  traveler  and  spectator,  that  perhaps  approaches 
this  scene  for  th«  first  time,  from  the  south  or  west,  or  from  a 
distance  up  the  great  Lakes  Erie,  Huron,  Michigan,  and 
Superior,  over  such  interminable  oceans  and  inland  seas  of 
freshwater;  and  sees  the  whole  moving  mass  here  concen- 
trated, swallowed  up  in  a  suddtn  subsidence  or  opening,  and 
plunging  into  a  tremendous  abyss  in  the  solid  rock,  three 
iiundred  feet  deep,  and  a  mile  broad,  the  sight  is  overwhelm- 
ing and  magnificent. 

*'  I  will  remember  the  works  of  the  Lord.     Thou  art  the 
Crod  that  doest  wonders.     The  waters  saw  thee,  O  God,  the 


76 


Niagara  Falls. 


w 


depths  also  were  troubled,  the  earth  trembled  and  shook. 
Thy  way  is  in  the  sea,  and  thy  path  in  the  great  waters,  and 
thy  footsteps  are  not  known." 

The  best  positions  for  viewing  the  rapids  are  near  Chippe- 
wa,  on  the  road  down  from  Buffklo,  on  the  west  from  Erie  and 
Waterloo.  This  is  preferable  in  some  respects,  and  gives  the 
first  birdVeye  view  as  the  River  c/«scends,  and  the  traveler  as- 
cends to  the  hill  north  of  Chippewa.  The  table  rock  is 
another  favorable  place  to  get  a  front  and  complete  panoramic 
coup  d'oeil,  or  in  walking  along  the  shore  on  either  side^ 
or  in  crossing  the  bridges  to  Bath  and  Iris  Islands;  but  the 
best  and  most  central,  is  from  the  upper  extremity  of  Goat 
Island  at  the  tower,  &c.  But  artists  may,  and  do  differ  even 
in  this  respect;  but  to  many  travelers,  the  young  especially , 
the  rapids  are  the  most  attractive  and  delightful  part  of  the 
enjoyments  of  a  few  days  at  Niagara.  To  the  older  and 
more  mature,  the  crescent,  or  Horse  Shoe  Fall,  and  the  on« 
on  the  United  States  side  may  be  more  gratifying. 

Looking  at  the  rapids  from  Goat  Island,  directly  up  stream, 
with  the  full  angle  or  inclined  plane  of  the  rapids  before 
us,  the  endless  torrent  comes  booming  and  bounding  on- 
ward in  high  curling  and  dashing  waves,  that  would  soon  an- 
nihilate  all  opposition,  but  the  abrupt  subsidence  of  one  ledge 
and  plain  below  the  preceding  one,  breaks  the  continuity  of 
the  wave,  and  it  darts  onward  in  another  wave  and  plunges 
till  it  reaches  the  precipice.  The  water  passing  down,  be- 
tween the  main  eastern  shore  and  Bath  Island,  under  Por- 
ter's bridge,  isH:lear,  and  not  very  deep,  but  runs  with  such 
amazing  rapidity  and  violence  over  the  rocky  bottom,  that  in 
crossing  the  bridge,  the  whole  structure  appears  to  be  moving 
bodily  towards  the  precipice  with  fearful  effect ;  in  fact, 
strong  nerves  are  required  in  the  traverse. 

The  Falls  on  the  eastern  or  American  side  of  Iris  Island, 
are  one  hundred  and  sixty-four  feet  in  the  leap,  and  nine 
hundred  feet  wjde  between  the  Island  and  the  main,  and  de- 
scend perpendicularly  in  one  clear,  glassy  sheet,  that  is  par- 
tially broken  into  foam  in  its  course,  and  is  enveloped  and  ob* 
ticured  in  mist  about  one  third  or  ono  fourth  of  the  height 
from  the  river  below.  The  Fall  between  Luna  and  Iris  Island 
is  two  hundred  and  forty  feet  wide  of  itself,  and  is  included 
in  the  total  estimate  of  nine  hundred  feet. 

To  appreciate  the  magnitude  and  beauty  of  the  Fall  near- 
est to  the  stairs,  (six  hundred  and  sixty  feet  in  widthj  de- 


t 


'vmsf^m^im^M 


Iria  -or  Goat  Island, 


77 


'scend  the  stairs,  and  at  various  stages  or  steps,  pause  and 
contemplate  the  astounding,  and  terrific,  and  all-absorbing 
scene;  the  world  of  waters,  that  never  ceases  to  plunge  into  the 
river  on  the  rocky  masses,  and  to  glance  oflfits  sprav  and  scat- 
tered  waters  with  extreme  violence,  like  small  shot,  with  a 
force  that  defies  all  attempts  to  face  it  unmoved,  or  unshrink- 
ing, or  to  resist  the  whirls  of  air  that  issue  forth  with  stifling 
effect.  When  at  the  bottom  of  the  stairs,  and  of  the  slope  at 
the  edge  of  the  river,  again  direct  the  eye  upward  to  the  falling 
waters,  that  from  this  position  are  beheld  with  the  fullest 
effect,  and  also  the  lofty  precipices  of  rock  mantled  with  the 
moss  and  hue  of  ages. 

The  bridge  extending  over  the  American  rapids  to  Bath 
Island,  is  four  hundred  and  seventy-six  feet  long,  resting  on 
piers  or  cribs  of  logs,  filled  in  with  heavy  masses  of  stone, 
and  the  bridge  from  Bath  to  Goat  Island  is  two  hundred  and 
seventy-two  feet,  made  in  a  similar  manner.  Bath  Island  is 
four  hundred  feet  long,  and  has  two  acres  of  surface,  and  the 
toll-house,  (fee  twenty-flve  cents,)  and  a  large  paper  mill  and 
a  bathing-house,  and  is  connected  by  bridges  with  two  islets, 
the  Ship  and  Brig,  that  brave  the  fury  of  the  rapids,  and  help 
to  ward  off  or  break  its  force,  in  impinging  against  the  Bath 
and  mill,  and  thus  the  most  is  made  of  these  mere  stepping- 
stones,  bridges,  and  rapids,  and  after  stepping  in  the  toll  house, 
and  examining  the  album  kept  there,  and  inserting  name  and 
date,  pass  over  the  last  bridge  to 

Iris,  or  Goat  Island^  that  is  half  a  mile  long  by  a  (juarter  wide, 
and  contains  seventy-£ve  acres  of  land,  well  timbered  with 
beech,  oak,  maple,  &c.  mantled  with  vines  and  cryptagamous 
shrubs  or  plants,  that  have  most  judiciously  and  com- 
mendably  been  preserved  by  the  estimable  and  worthy  pro- 
prietor in  their  pristine  wildness  and  native  beauty.  A  neat 
walk  covered  with  gravel  has  been  made  near  the  skirts  of 
the  island,  and  vistas  introduced  to  direct  the  stranger,  and 
to  exhibit  the  whole  surrounding  scenery  to  the  best  possible 
effect.  This  enchanting  lillle  island,  enthroned  in  the  midst 
of  the  furious  rapids,  and  parting  aside  even  the  gigantic  tide 
of  inland  waters  that  presses  upon  it  with  threateuing  vehe- 
mence and  resistless  power,  is  now  rendered  intensely  inte- 
resting to  the  visitant,  by  the  facilities  in  approaching  it  over 
the  formerly  impassable  and  virgin  rapids,  that  had  rarely  be* 
fore  been  attempted  by  the  daring  efibrt  of  man,  but  are  now 

7* 


'  \ 


11* 


fa         .   ,;     •  .:     Biddfe  Stairs.    '^-^  ' 

safely  open  to  public  curioeity  nnd  gratification,  and  the  hither- 
to hidden  beauties  and  secluded  recesses  of  this  charming-  spot 
satisfactorily  unfolded.  There  is  not,  there  cannot  be  under 
the  arch  of  heaven  a  more  interesting  or  awful  place  in  all 
creation  than  this,  with  its  auxiliaries  of  surpassing  glory  and 
grandeur,  to  irradiate,  guard,  ennoble,  and  animate  the  pano- 
rama that  here  environs  the  awe-struck,  astonished,  and  de< 
lighted  traveler. 

After  making  the  circuit  of  the  island,  and  gating  for  the 
first  time  upon  the  prominent  features  nnd  wonders  of  the 
place,  in  a  transient  or  cursory  manner,  return  to  the  northern 
face  of  the  precipice,  and  explore  the  Biddle  Slairs,  but  first 
cross  the  romantic,  ticklish  bridge  to  Luna  Island^  on  the 
verge  of  this  central  Fall,  that,  when  viewed  from  the  Cana- 
dian shore,  at  a  mill's  distance,  is  almost  lost,  or  appears  but 
a  mere  ribband  in  comparison  with  its  more  imposing 
neighbors,  yet  it  is  of  the  very  reputable  width  of  two  hun- 
dred and  forty  feet,  presenting  a  snow«white,  foaming  appear- 
ance, that  if  it  stood  alone,  like  the  Montmorency  at  Quebec, 
would  of  itself  have  numerous  pilgrims  to  lavish  their  admi- 
ration upon  it,  but  here  it  is,  subsidiary  and  subordinate,  yet 
eminently  graceful  and  pleasing. 

The  front  of  the  precipice  of  Ir'ia  Island  is  of  limestone  ange, 
wit':  the  venerable  hues  of  time,  presenting  a  uniform  facade 
of  about  a  thousand  feet  facing  to  the  north-west,  and  separa- 
ting by  its  intervention  the  two  grand  divisions  of  the  falls, 
the  eastern  and  the  western,  and  it  rises  to  the  height  of  one 
hundred  and  eighfy-five  feet  above  the  level  of  the  circular 
gulf  below  the  falls.  The  visit  of  the  patriotic  Nicholas  Bid- 
die,  Esq.  of  Philadelphia,  to  this  place  in  1829,  resulted  in  his 
causing  this  capital  stairway  to  be  constructed  at  his  individual 
expense,  for  the  public  accommodation,  and  we  hope  that  it 
will  he  carefully  retained,  and  repaired,  and  prcs'  rved.*  This 
erection  facilitated  and  opened  up  to  public  admiration  many 
new  points  of  view,  before  unapproachable. 

The  first  flight  of  steps  continues  for  forty  feet,  when  a  six- 
sided  or  hexagon  building,  or  inclosure  of  wood,  sixty-five 

*  Dr.  Hiingerford,  of  Troy,  was  inHtantly  killed  at  the  falls.  In  cotn- 
pany  with  Lindsey,  the  guide,  lie  had  descended  the  Biddle  8tair-ca«e  on 
the  American  side,  and  was  standing  near  the  water,  when  a  mans  of  rock* 
weighing  several  tons,  fell  from  the  bank  above,  a  height  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  foet,  directly  upon  him.  Lindsey  suffered  a  severe  contusion 
on  hisleft  arm,  but  was  not  otherwise  injured.  >  V 


'{ 


Terrapin  Bridge  and  Tower. 


79 


feet  high,  containing  the  npiral,  or  geometrical,  or  cork-screw 
staircase  of  ninety  steps,  lands  the  giddy  explorer  upon  the  top 
of  the  debris  at  the  foot  of  the  mural  precipice,  whence  three 
traces  or  w'<cs  diverge  to  new  points  of  Rtlrnction.     One  is 
directed  to  the  water's  edge,  eighty  feel  still  farther  downward. 
Another  to  the  left,  or  west,  to  the  great  Horse-Shoe  or  Cres* 
cent  Fall.   Another  to  the  right,  conducts  to  the  most  singular 
novelty  of  all,  the  cave,  or  head  quarters  of  JEolus,  the  god 
of  the  winds;  and  no  name  could  be  better  chosen,  or  more 
literally  correct,  for  the  cavern  is  fifty  feet  wide,  one  hundred 
high,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  deep,  and  is  directly  behind 
the  centre  fall,  and  the  visiter  may  safely  approach  to,  and  pass 
through  it,  and  emerge  nt  the  foot  of  Luna  Island,  and  won- 
der at  his  temerity  in  risking  it;  and  after  looking  around 
from  this  peculiar  position,  he  can  even  advance,  with  cautious 
steps  and  slow,  and  perchance  have  a  peep  behind  the  watery 
curtain  that  veils  over  the  rock  that  sustains  the  naain  portion 
of  the  American  fall;  but  let  him  not  attempt,  in  a  fool-hardy 
spirit,  to  risk  any  further  progress  towards  the  American 
stairs,  that  are  yet  several  hundred  feet  beyond  him,  with  a 
crushing  weight  of  ivater  also  eternally  falling  from  a  height 
of  one  hundred  and  sixty-four  feet,  equal  to  an  ordinary 
church  steeple.     The  noise  both  at  this  point  and  at  the  cav- 
ern of  the  winds,  where  it  is  increased  and  reverberated  with 
ten-fold  violence,  is  utterly  astounding  and  overwhelming, 
and  is  sui  generis;  and  it  is  glory  enough  to  any  one  to  have 
been  thus  far  successful;  and  if  satisfied,  let  him  retrace  his 
steps  to  the  foot  of  the  spiral  Biddle,  and  try  his  luck  in  a  de« 
scent  towards  the  western  curtain  or  crescent  fall,  that  some- 
times permits  the  veil  of  its  mysteries  also  to  be  penetrated 
for  a  short  distance  with  similar  impunity.     Let  us  now  as- 
cend the  one  hundred  and  eighty- fiv«  feet  to  the  summit  of 
the  Iris,  and  find  our  way  westward  by  the  gravelled  walk 
to  the 

Terrapin  Bridge  and  Tower,  the  most  daring  achievement 
to  construct,  reaching  three  hundred  feet  out  from  the 
Iris  Island,  including  the  extension  up  the  stream  of  the 
rapids,  and  the  Tower  of  stone,  forty-five  feet  high,  done  in 
18.^3,  with  steps  leading  and  winding  up  to  the  top,  and  from 
the  dizzy  summit  that  is  thus  safely  attained,  the  crowning 
feat  of  human  and  almost  super-human  efforts,  undertakings, 
or  even  imuginings,  the  traveler  that  has  thus  far  periled 
his  life  to  gratify  his  vain  and  unbounded  curiosityi  and  that 


80 


Terrapin  Tfiwer,      ^'^ 


says  to  himself,  what  man  has  done,  man  can  do;  and  what 
others  have  here  seen,  I  may  also  behold,  perhaps,  in  safety, 
will  not,  perchance,  withdraw  from  the  bridge  or  the  tower 
without  claiming  the  full  fruition  of  his  gratiHed  curiosity  as 
the  reward  of  his  hazardous  and  expensive  journey  ings.  Of 
all  appalling  and  terrible  sites  for  man  to  place  himself  upon 
to  glut  his  insatiable,  presumptuous  desire  to  draw  near  to 
the  vory  brink  of  destruction,  and  to  cast  a  withering,  heart- 
sickening,  trembling  look  into  a  vortex  where  no  human  be- 
ing can  enter  but  to  be  instantly  passed  into  the  abyss  of 
eternity,  this  is  the  threshold  to  contemplate,  creating  hor- 
rible sensations  of  mingled  fear  and  shrinking  back  of  the 
mind  and  heart,  in  thus  madly  venturing  into  the  presence  of 
the  power  that  can  annihilate  in  a  moment  all  that  thus  pro* 
fanely  intrude  into  the  domains  between  time  and  eternit}'. 

The  site  of  the  tower  is  but  four  or  five  hundred  feet  from 
the  deepest  portion  of  the  main  channel  of  dark  green  water, 
that  occupies  the  crescent-shaped  part  of  the  Niagara,  and  is 
also  within  a  few  feet  of  where  the  rapids  are  tumbled  over 
the  precipice  in  a  sea  of  milk-white  foam  and  richness  of 
inimitable  perfection  and  beauty,  A  very  slight  illustration 
of  this  appearance  may  be  cited,  by  comparing  it  in  a  small 
way  with  the  descent  of  a  heavy  mass  of  snow  from  the  roof 
of  a  tall  house  in  a  thawing  day,  when  the  mass  comes  down 
in  successive  and  ponderous,  yet  feathery-looking  pure  white 
volumes,  wit'i  a  splash  and  crash  that  causes  a  rebound  one 
third  of  the  v^ay  back  towards  the  place  from  whence  it  came. 
Now  the  whole  facade  of  the  principal  fall  is  two  thousand 
one  hundred  feet,  and  this  is  eternally  curtained  with  this 
feathery  foam,  as  before  described,  except  the  deep  crescent, 
and  is  falling  from  a  height  of  one  hundred  and  sixty-four 
and  one  hundred  and  fifty-eight  feet  on  the  west  and  east  re- 
spectively, and  the  pure  majestic  central  current  of  the  deep 
mysterious  crescent,  with  a  width  of  two  hundred  feet,  ap- 
pears to  roll  on  vizard  like  a  gigantic  wheel,  clogged  and  mov- 
ing with  difficulty  in  a  huge  snow  drift,  advancing  towards 
the  spectator.  This  grand  effect  is  produced  from  the  fact 
that  this  ocean  fresh  water  flood  does  not  descend  exactly 
perpendicular,  but  from  the  angle  of  inclination  of  the  rapids, 
(above  fifty-one  feet  in  four  thousand,  or  about  three-quarters 
of  a  mile,)  the  huge,  lumbering  mass  of  waters  forms  a 
waving  arch  of  unknown  thickness,  on  whose  pure  bosom  of 
dark  green  may  be  traced  white  spots,  or  banks  of  foam,  that 


r  ■•  ; 


A 


/ 


J- 


\  -  .■ 


t , . 


vV  The  Creteent  or  Hone- Shoe  Fall. 


81 


can  be  followed  by  the  eye  for  f  everal  seconds,  as  they  descend 
over  the  snaky  undulations  of  the  deep  crescent,  and  are  lost 
in  (he  spray  and  obscurity  of  the  profound  gulf  below. 

The  ferry  or  passage  over  the  river  to  and  from  the  Ameri« 
can  stairs  and  Canadian  ahore  is  perfectly  safe,  and  the  wa 
ter  is  much  loss  agitated  than  would  be  expected  so  near  the 
falls;  but  this  is  the  only  safe  crossing  between  the  falls  and 
Lewislon,  six  miles  below,  as  tho  fury  of  the  rapids,  eddies, 
and  whirlpools  below  the  ferry,  render  all  attempts  to  cross 
elsewhere  impracticable,  and  madness  itself. 

Estimates  of  the  quantity  of  water  discharged  vary  froru 
forty  to  eighty-five  millions  of  tons  tho  hour,  nnd  the  depth  of 
the  pool,  at  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet.  A  carriage-way  is 
now  making  through  the  lofty  banks  on  either  side  to  the 
plain  above. 

The  Crescent  or  Horse-Shoe  Fall,  comprising  in  magnitude 
and  volume  seven-eighths  of  the  entire  body  of  the  Niagara 
River,  is  reserved  to  the  last  in  our  description,  and  the  cus- 
tomary and  nearest  approach  to  it  from  this  shore  is  by  ad- 
vancing to  the  edge  of  the  celebrated  table  rock  near  enough 
to  touch  the  skirt  of  the  rapids  that  come  sweeping  around  on 
the  right  hand ;  this,  however,  is  in  fact  a  most  perilous  stand, 
a  mere  shelf  or  thin  slab  of  limestone  rock  but  two  or  three 
feet  in  thickness  at  its  extremity,  where  it  overarches  out  forty 
feet  beyond  the  general  line  of  the  rock  beneath,  and  fiiisures 
already  indicate  that  a  speedy  disruption  of  this  part  of  the 
rock  will  inevitably  occur ;  but  such  is  the  heedlessness  of 
man,  and  the  thoughtlessness  and  intrepidity  of  the  ladies, 
that  this  is  always  the  flirting-place  where  visiters  take  their 
initiation  into  the  wonders  of  the  raging  and  conflicting  ele- 
ments beneath.  u 

Perhaps  as  good  a  view  wilh  a  better  fore-ground  may  be 
obtained,  combining  perfect  safety  also,  by  resorting  a  few 
rods  north  beyond  the  stairs,  receding  more  from  the  brink. 
The  stairs  near  by,  like  the  Biddle,  are  spiral,  winding  round 
a  tall  pine  centre  that  reaches  to  the  top  of  the  debris  of  rocks 
that  have  fallen  from  the  arch  above,  from  whence  a  path 
leads  along  to  the  right,  at  the  foot  of  the  precipice,  with 
over-hanging  arch  of  rock  forming  a  complete  semi-vault, 
open  on  the  left  to  the  panorama  of  the  entire  chasm  and  its 
body  of  billowy  ocean  floods. 

',  To  pass  behind  the  falls  to  termination  rock,  visiters  apply 
at  the  museum  or  shanty  near  the  stairs  to  the  keeper,  who 


•"•""^■""PBPMP 


82 


The  passage  behind  the  Falls— Albany. 


must  have  his  regular  fees,  and  will  furnish  suitable  dresses 
and  a  f;uide  tha^  will  descend  with  and  conduct  the  adven- 
turous explorer,  with  many  cautions  as  to  his  conduct,  step  by 
step,  taking  hold  of  his  hand,  or  holding  by  a  narrow  ledge 
of  slate  rock,  and  with  a  very  slimy,  eel-covered,  precarious, 
slippery  footing;  and  as  the  falling  body  of  water  is  neared, 
the  breath  is  with  difficulty  preserved  from  the  whirls  of  air 
and  spray  that  issue  forth  from  the  cavern,  blinding  and 
drenching  at  the  same  time;  but,  once  in  for  it,  onward  is  the 
word,  groping  in  uncertainty  and  obscurity  for  one  hundred 
and  fifty-three  feet,  till  ycu  can  proceed  no  farther,  a  projecting 
rock  completely  barring  all  further  progress,  when  the  guide 
puts  his  mouth  close  to  your  ear,  and  says  "  lopk  up ;"  the  eye 
is  cast  up  to  see  the  thick  vault  of  waters  that  comes  like  a 
deluge,  near  enough  to  allow  a  play  or  space  of  a  few  feet 
between  the  vast  body  of  water  and  the  solid  rock,  when  it 
becomes  requisite  to  turn  about  on  a  pivot,  as  it  were,  and  re- 
turn, feeling  and  groping  along  by  the  same  path  you  came, 
and  aAer  emerging  into  full  light  and  freedom,  and  ascending 
the  stairs  and  re-dressing,  &c.  the  guide  gives  you  the  famous 
certificate  of  your  having  gone  to  the  termination  rock,  and 
that  affair  is  finished. 


i.^^ 


••?tij 


'.  .! 


\-'y 


■ft    j-lt;*,'    '\tr 


Crrand  Route  by  the  Erie  Canal  from 
Albany  to  Buffalo.  ..  ^ 

Albany,  the  present  seat  of  the  state  government,  was  first 
settled  in  1612  to  1614,  after  Henry  Hudson  had  made  his  ex- 
ploration in  1609,  up  as  far  as  the  Mohawk  river,  in  search  of  a 
passage  to  the  East  Indies,  for  the  Dutch  company  at  Amster- 
dam. It  was,  at  that  period,  ^  bold  and  hazardous  attempt  to 
plant  a  colony  of  Europeans  even  on  the  coast  of  the  Atlantic, 
and  still  more  such  a  distancein  the  interior;  but  the  advantages 
that  it  presented  for  trading  with  the  aborigines  for  furs  and 
peltries,  in  this  their  strong  hold,  outbalanced  and  quieted  all 
objections  and  fears  in  the  view  of  enormous  gains  to  be  rea- 
lized by  the  traffic  that  was,  for  fifty  years  or  more,  carried  on 
by  the  company  as  a  close  monopoly ;  indeed,  for  a  long  time 
no  adventurer  from  the  city  of  New  Amsterdam,  now  New- 
Vork,  was  permitted  to  ascend  the  Hudson  River  for  traffic, 
unless  licensed  specially  for  that  purpose,      r  :  >^  ' 


h 


-•4i;#/^''' 


^MsS^i'i^iiii^i^^  AlbaM/0>^-"^i0^^( 


•h'%^ 


83 


In  1664,  the  transfer  of  the  colony  to  the  English  ensned, 
and  the  name  of  this  spot  was  changed  from  New  Orange  to 
Albany,  after  the  Duke  of  York  and  Albany,  and  a  charter 
granted  by  the  English  Governor  Dongan,  defining  the  boun- 
daries of  the  settlement,  viz.  one  mile  front  on  the  Hudson, 
and  extending  back  in  a  northwest  direction,  13  to  14  miles, 
nearly  over  to  the  Mohawk  River ;  a  very  narroto  and  yet  libe- 
ral grant.  The  city  is  now  divided  into  five  Wards,  and  has  a 
Mayor,  ten  Aldermen  and  Assistants.  It  is  in  north  latitude 
42°  39' — and  from  the  level  of  the  river,  has  a  front  of  a  mile 
and  three-quarters  of  compactly  built  spacious  warehouses 
and  dwellings,  and  extending  west  several  blocks  to  Market- 
street,  the  main  artery  of  the  city  from  north  to  south,  from 
which  it  rises  gradually  to  Pearl  through  the  central  State- 
street  to  the  termination  at  the  public  square  and  the  Capitol, 
at  an  elevation  of  150  feet,  and  at  the  western  bounds  of  the 
summit  level  it  attains  67  feet  more,  in  all  about  217  feet,  thus 
giving  the  city,  on  approaching  it  by  river,  or  from  the  east 
shore,  a  very  enticing  appearance,  as  it  is  presented  on  a  tole- 
rably steep  acclivity  that  recedes  from  the  river  towards  the 
west,  and  discloses  its  prominent  edifices  to  the  utmost  ad- 
vantage. 

There  are  100  streets,  and  a  population  by  present  estimate 
of  35,000 — besides  a  fluctuating  mass  that  arrive  and  de- 
part  daily  by  steam^  stage,  and  cars,  of  several  hundreds  that 
are  concentrated  here  as  a  focus — here  are  21  churches, 
12  hotels,  6  banks/total  capital  $2,150,000 — 4  Insurance  Com- 
panies, 14  charitable  societies  for  various  nations,  and  an  Asy- 
lum, and  2  daily,  2  half  weekly,  7  weekly,  and  3  monthly 
papers — a  County  and  the  State  Medical  Society,  Agricultural 
and  Horticultural  Society — an  Apprentices'  Library,  a  very 
superior  Reading-room  for  young  men,  free  to  strangers, 
with  lectures  twice  a  week,  and  a  debating  society — the  Athe- 
neum  and  a  Library  of  ten  thousand  volumes.  The  Albany 
Academy  for  Females  in  Pearl  north  of  State-street,  is  a  build- 
ing that  pleases  the  eye  by  its  beautiful  white  portico,  and  is 
said  to  be  in  high  reputation.  The  Albany  Academy,  on  the 
north  s'de  of  the  public  square,  is  an  expensive  edifice  of  the 
reddish  or  brown  sandstone,  with  a  front  of  90  feet,  and  three 
stories  high,  that  cost  near  a  hundred  thousand  dollars — it  has 
Professors  of  the  Latin  and  Greek,  and  of  Mathematics  and 
Natural  Philosophy,  and  of  Modern  Languages — and  there 
are  4  tutors. 


mm 


84 


Public  BuUdingt  in  Albany* 


f 

a' 


■"  The  Albany  Institute  has  its  apartments  in  the  Academy,  a 
library  of  2000  volumes,  and  ten  thousand  specimens  in  its 
museum  in  geology,  mineralogy,  botany,  coins,  and  engrav- 
ings. There  are  nine  district  schools,  and  seven  thousand 
children  instructed. 

Slanwix  Hall,  built  of  granite,  with  a  dome,  and  the  Museum 
of  white  marble,  at  the  corner  of  State  and  Market-streets, 
and  the  splendid  City  Hall,  also  of  white  marble,  and  with  a 
gilded  dome  of  unique  appearance,  on  the  east  side  of  the 
S^i  public  square,  are  all  fine  edifices,  as  is  the  Slate  House 
near  by. 

The  Capitol,  where  the  State  Legislature  convene,  and  the 
rooms  of  the  Chancellor  and  Supreme  Court  are  held  and  the 
State  Library  is  contained,  and  other  places  of  public  business, 
occupies  the  most  prominent  situation  in  the  city,  at  the  head 
^  of  State-street,  and  has  a  portico  of  the  Ionic  order.    There 

are  portraits  and  busts  in  this  edifice  and  in  the  City  Hall. 
The  Capitol  is  one  hundred  and  fifteen  feet  long,  ninety  broad, 
and  fifty  high,  and  from  its  steps,  or  summit,  is  a  most  enchant- 
ing view  of  the  Hudson  River,  and  city,  &^c. 

There  are  three  Academies  for  females,  and  a  classical 
school.  The  Baptist  Church  in  Pearl  and  the  Dutch  in  Bea- 
ver and  HudsoH'Streets  are  entitled  to  notice  as  neat  and  taste- 
ful edifices.  There  are  Bible,  Prayer  Book,  and  Tract  and 
Musical  Societies,  and  a  Theatre.  The  public  square  in 
front  of  the  Capitol  is  well  laid  out,  and  has  a  costly  iron 
railing. 

The  six  or  eight  breweries,  of  noted  excellence,  produce  to 
the  value  of  half  a  million  a  year.  Six  iron  works,  $326,000. 
Oil  cloth,  rope,  cabinet,  hollow  and  stone  ware,  snuff,  tobacco, 
hats,  carriages,  sleighs,  harness,  plated  and  silver  ware,  coach 
lace,  looking-glasses,  types,  morocco,  sperm  candles,  &c.  are 
all  manufactured  here. 

A  ride  to  Troy,  Lansingburg,  Waterford,  Niskayuna,  or  the 
Shaker  Settlement,  six  miles,  and  to  the  Cahoes  Falls,  on  the 
Mohawk,  and  along  the  canal  and  double  locks,  and  excava- 
tions, and  dams,  and  acqueducts,  will  well  repay  the  transient 
visiter,  and  occupy  a  day  most  agreeably.  Stages  ply  to  Troy 
on  the  hard  macadamized  road  every  half  hour,  fare  12]^  cents. 
A  view  of  the  great  avalanche  that  overwhelmed  the  inhabi- 
tants at  the  base  of  the  hill,  or  rather  to  see  the  place  it  occu- 
pied at  Troy,  is  of  itself  worth  a  visit,  as  well  as  tho  city 
itself,  and  its  celebrated  female  school.    Cars  ply  to  Schenec- 


Mineral  Spring'^ihe  Baain-'Erie  Canal. 


85 


tAdy  four  times  daily,  at  eight,  ten,  three,  and  five— a  ferry  to 
Bath  and  to  Greenbush — but  the  contemplated  tunnel  under 
the  Hudson  is  not  yet  made.  ^^r,  s- 

CoUoch?s  Mineral  Springs  six  hundred  and  seventeen  feet 
deep,  gives,  on  analysis,  muriate  and  carbonate  of  soda,  car- 
bonates of  lime,  and  magnesia,  and  iron,  and  acid,  similar  to 
the  water  of  the  Congress  Spring  at  Saratoga.  The  spring, 
with  the  garden,  &c.  is  worth  a  visit.  .■  _, 


Tbe  Eric  Canal  Basin, 

containing  nn  area  of  thirty-two  acres  in  the  Hudson 
River,  formed  by  the  pier,  eighty  feet  wide,  and  four  thou- 
sand three  hundred  feet  long,  extending  parallel  with  the 
shore  to  protect  the  entrance  and  exit  of  canal-boats  at  the 
lock,  and  afford  facilities  for  reception  and  discharge  of  pro- 
duce and  merchandise  in  safety  into  the  adjoining  warehouses 
and  sloops,  is  a  work  of  great  utility  and  of  small  expense,  it 
having  cost  but  $130,000,  and  is  very  profitable  to  the  proprie- 
tors. There  are  many  steam-boats  for  carrying  passengers 
between  this  city  and  New- York,  that  leave  at  seven  in  the 
morning  and  five  in  the  afternoon,  daily--K>thers  also  to  Troy, 
besides  tow-boats. 

In  the  spacious  reservoir  or  basin,  the  grand  portal  or  in- 
troduction to  the  Erie  and  Champlain  canals,  may  usually  be 
seen,  in  the  business  season,  an  assemblage  of  boats  from  the 
numerous  towns  and  villages  that  border  on  the  canals  and  the 
small  interior  lakes  that  are  connected  therewith,  and  inter- 
mingled with  the  river  and  coasting  craft ;  here  are  motley 
groupes  of  freshwater  and  saltwater  sailors  and  boatmen, 
besides  the  crews  of  the  steamers  that  are  usually  ranged  out- 
side of  the  pier,  and  throngs  of  strangers  and  passengers 
hurrying  to  and  fro  across  the  bridges  that  lead  from  the  city 
to  the  pier,  amid  carts  and  carriages,  barrows  and  vehicles  of 
all  kinds,  urging  onward  to  extricate  from  the  confused  mel^e 
—this  is  peculiarly  the  case  on  the  departure  or  arrival  of  the 
larger  class  of  steamboats,  when  crowded  by  their  several 
hundreds  of  passengers. 

The  tedious  mode  of  traveling  by  canal  between  Albany, 
Schenectady,  and  Utica,  has  long  since  been  supplanted  by  the 
rail-roads  with  their  flying  cars,  as  detailed  at  page  45 ;  yet  it 
may  still  be  desired  by  some  to  trace  the  method  adopted  in 

8 


rvt. 


86 


Erie  Canal — the  Patroon^GibhontvUle* 


1825  by  travelers,  and  used  for  several  years,  to  examine  this 
interesting  portion  of  the  canal,  up  the  Hudson  and  branch- 
ing off  to  the  west  in  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk. 

By  departing  from  Albany,  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morning, 
in  one  of  the  line  boats  bound  for  the  west,  though  several 
hours  are  required  tu  pass  the  twenty-eight  and  a  half  railes, 
and  twenty-four  locks,  to  Schenectady,  yet  to  those  that  can 
spare  the  requisite  time,  and  that  are  fond  of  this  quiet,  easy, 
safe  mode  of  traveling,  there  is  much  to  be  seen  in  the  distance 
^ '  to  reward  the  curious  stranger;  and  it  can  be  enjoyed  without 
fatigue,  and  at  a  trifling  expense. 

Passing  out  of  the  basin,  by  the  first  lock  of  eleven  or 
twelve  feet  rise,  a  long  reach  or  level  of  seven  miles,  with 
only  one  lock,  is  entered  upon,  that  is  parallel  with,  and  but 
I  i  a  few  rods  frorn  the  Hudson  Kiver  on  the  ea8t,and  the  beautiful 

garden  and  grounds  of  the  Patroon,  so  called,  (or  Patron,  or 
great  land  owner,)  a  descendant  of  the  original  Dutch  patentee 
of  the  large  manor  of  Rensaelaerwyck,  a  very  extensive  tract 
on  both  sides  of  the  Hudson,  this  being  near  the  central  point 
of  the  grant  of  twenty>four  miles  north  and  south  on  the 
river,  and  forty-two  miles  east  and  west,  (one  thousand  and 
eight  square  miles,  or  six  hundred  and  forty-six  thousand  one 
hundred  and  twenty-eight  acres,)  bounded  by  Massachusetts 
on  the  east,  and  by  Schoharie  county  on  the  west,  and  by 
'  Schenectady,  Saratoga,  and  part  of  Rensselaer  counties  on 
the  north,  and  by  Columbia  and  Greene  counties  on  the  south. 
This  immense  landed  estate,  except  the  city  of  Albany  and 
other  tracts  owned  by  individuals,  is  the  undoubted  and  clear- 
ly established  and  recognized  property  of  the  Van  Rensselaer 
family,  derived  by  their  ancestor,  Killian  Van  Rensselaer, 
that  by  permission  of  the  Dutch  Government  in  1630,  1631, 
1637, 1648, and  1649,  purchased  of  the  Indians;  andthesopur- 
chases  were  fully  confirmed'in  1641  by  the  government  of 
Holland,  and  by  that  of  England  under  Governor  Dongan  in 
1685,  on  the  4th  of  March.  The  last  of  the  Fatroons,  Ste- 
phen Van  Rensselaer,  died  1839, 26th  January,  at  4  P.  M.,  the 
moment  when  the  great  hurricane  was  raging  at  New- York, 
and  on  the  sea-board.  The  estate,  that  has  been  estimated 
at  a  value  of  several  millions  of  dollars,  will  now  be  divided 
among  the  large  family  and  heirs  of  the  late  Patroon. 

At  the  termination  of  the  first  reach  before  stated,  we  arc 
at  or  near  West  Troy,  or  Gibbonjville,  opposite  to  the  city  of 
Troi/f  on  the  east  side  of  the  Hudson.    Here  are  five  hundred 


V.  8.  Arsenal— Erie  Canal— Cahoes  Falls. 


87 


and  twenty  dwellings,  and  three  thousand  five  hundred  inhabi- 
tants— the  Bank  uf  Watervliet,  capita!  $150,000 — manuracto- 
ries  of  various  kinds,  one  of  India  rubber — side  locks  lead  to 
the  river,  and  a  bridge  to  Tibbett's  Island.  The  surplus 
water  from  the  adjoining  canal  yields  all  the  power  required 
for  mechanical  operations,  and  may  in  some  measure  be  con> 
sidered  as  a  suburb  of  Troy,  and  with  that  is  identified  in  its 
growth  and  prosperity. 

The  United  States  Arsenal  covers  a  large  space,  with  the 
canal  passing  in  close  contiguity ;  here  are  usually  large  stores 
ofarms  and  munitions  of  war,  skillfully  and  artfully  arranged 
in  neat  brick  or  stone  buildings,  and  some  relics  of  the  Revo- 
lutionary war  are  here  to  be  seen,  in  cannon  taken  at  Saratoga 
and  Yorktown,  and  others  of  brass,  of  antique  form,  present- 
ed by  the  king  of  France.  •  t 

Two  locks,  of  eleven  feet  lift  each,  next  conduct  to  a  level 
of  a  mile  or  two  that  brings  us  to  the  junction  of  the  Erie 
with  the  Champlain  Canal, (leading  north  to  Whitehall,  sixty- 
three  and  a  half  miles;  see  page  44,)  and  to  the  steps,  or 
ridges,  that  are  surmounted  by  nine  locks,  of  eight  feet  lift 
each,  that  are  formed  of  the  while  marble  of  Westchester 
county,  and  are  ninety  by  fifteen  feet  in  the  chamber,  as  are 
all  the  original  locks  ;  the  boats  are  five  minutes  in  getting 
through  each  lock,  and  the  canal  begins  here  to  incline  gradu- 
ally to  the  north-west,  and  as  it  rises  above  the  Hudson,  there 
is  a  charming  panoramic  view  of  the  hills  back  of  Troy  and 
Lansingburg,  and  of  the  low  grounds  and  islands  in  the  delta 
of  the  Mohawk.  ;      f.     i «  *,- 

The  next  three  locks,  of  eight  feet  eight  each,  or  twenty-six 
feet,  is  near  the  bridge  that  conducts,  or  connects,  the  road 
over  the  Mohawk  to  VVaterford, — and  from  the  bridge  is  a 
glimpse  of  the  falls  above  and  the  dam  that  raises  the  river 
below,  to  enable  the  boats  that  are  bound  north  to  cross  above 
the  dam  in  the  slack  water,  though  at  considerable  hazard. 
The  next  two  locks  rise  nine  feet  each,  and  in  half  a  mile  we 
encounter,  for  six  hundred  feet,  the  first  deep  cutting,  viz. 
twenty-six  feet,  in  transition  argellite,  and  arrive  by  the  side 
of  the 

Cahoes  FnlU — a  Dutch  church  and  a  farming  settlement,  the 
Boghtox  Cove;  and  the  manufacturing  village  of  the  Cahoes 
company  is  here  located,  and  contains  a  factory  for  cotton  and 
woolen,  and  one  for  hosiery  of  cotton,  linen,  and  woolen,  on 
newly  invented  looms,  one  for  edge  tools,  a  mill  for  turning- 


f^ 


88 


Cahoeg  Falls —  Wat  Hoix  Oap. 


1 


!(; 


lathes,  an  iron  foundery,  a  carpet  factory,  an  Episcopal  church, 
two  taverns,  and  shops,  and  stores,  and  sixty  dwellings.  The 
falls  are  in  full  view  of  the  village  and  of  the  canal,  and  have 
seventy-eight  feet  descent.  Above  the  cataract,  the  left  or 
north  bank  has  an  elevation  of  one  hundred  feet,  and  below 
it  has  one  hundred  and  seventy  fef^t  of  a  slaty  lead-colored 
rocU,  distorted  and  irregular  in  its  outline.  On  the  right  or 
south  shore  above  the  falls  the  bank  is  low,  but  below  it,  eighty 
to  ninety  feet  high.  In  some  seasouii,  the  bed  of  the  Mohawk 
below  the  Cahoes  Fall  can  be  examined  and  walked  over  close 
to  the  foot  of  the  cataract,  though  rough  and  full  of  holes  and 
projections  of  the  sharp  angles  and  points  of  the  slaty  rock ; 
at  other  times  the  whole  face  of  the  jagged  rock,  and  of  the 
bed  below,  is  one  tremendous  torrent  nine  hundred  feet  wide, 
white  with  foam,  presenting  a  spectacle  of  great  sublimity. 

A  canal  near  two  miles  long,  that  leads  out  any  desirable 
portion  of  the  waters  of  the  Mohawk,  a  half  mile  above  the 
falls,  to  the  various  mills  below,  has  a  head  and  fall  of  one 
hundred  and  twenty  feet,  its  channel  in  the  first  part  being 
through  slate  rock,  between  the  river  and  the  Erie  Canp.l,  and 
then  by  a  t-innel  under  the  state  canal  to  the  west  side,  whence 
it  is  distributed  as  wanted,  yielding  six  or  seven  successive 
falls  of  eighteen  or  twenty  feet.  The  capital  of  the  company, 
as  incorporated,  is  half  a  million  of  dollars. 

In  haU  a  mile  onward,  above  the  Cahoes,  we  meet  four 
locks,  with  a  rise  of  eight  feet  each,  and  a  series  of  mills  ad- 
jacent, and  in  two  and  a  half  miles  onward  we  reach  the  Lower 
Aqueduct  over  the  Mohawk  Piver,  of  eleven  hundred  and 
twenty-eight  feet  in  length,  resting  on  twenty-si.x  piers  and 
abutments  of  stone,  the  trunk  that  contains  the  water  being 
of  wood.  This  transfers  the  canal  to  the  north  side  of  the 
Mohawk  River,  in  the  town  of  Half  Moon,  Saratoga  county, 
along  the  base  of  the  Wat  Hoix  ridge,  for  over  two  miles,  to 
the  famous  gap  of  that  name,  that  for  forty  rods  runs  through 
high  walls  of  gray  wacke  slate. 

Until  this  passage  was  discovered  and  determined  upon, 
when  the  enguieers  were  exploring  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk 
for  the  best  line  to  adopt,  ihey  were  almost  at  a  nonplus, 
when  they  beheld  the  difficulties  and  asperities  of  this  vicinity 
on  the  south  shore  of  the  river,  that  is  very  forbidding  in  its 
aspect,  being  rock-bound  and  precipitous,  and  it  was  then 
that  they  determined  to  overcome  and  avoid  all  difficulties  by 
carrying  the  canal  twice  across  the  river.    The  ravine  was 


1  :.' 


Wat  Hoix  Rapidt-rUnion  College. 


89 


eighty  feet  wide  at  the  east  and  fifteen  at  the  west,  expanding 
in  the  middle  as  if  to  form  a  natural  basin,  with  walls  of  solid 
rock.  Beyond  this  for  80  rods,  the  Wat  Hoix  rapids  in  the 
Mohawk  have  a  descent  of  ten  feet,  ruffling  the  surface  of 
the  water,  and  called  by  the  Indiana  the  Whilt  Horsey  or  the 
Evil  Spirit.  On  the  north  the  canal  is  bounded  by  a  precipice 
of  one  hundred  and  forty- sis  feet,  that  in  many  places  over- 
hangs the  canal,  and  is  quite  appalling  to  the  sight.  On  the 
south  is  the  river  washings  the  bank  of  the  canal,  that  is  formed 
in  a  solid  and  masterly  style. 

Thence  it  is  two  miles  to  Fort's  ferry  on  the  old  road  from 
Albany  to  Ballston  Spa,  and  one  mile  to  the  next  lock  of  seven 
feet  rise,  and  one  mile  to  Vischer's  ferry.  One  and  a  half 
miles  bring  us  to  a  deep  rock  excavation,  of  thirty-two  feet 
in  the  solid  rock  as  before.  The  canal,  for  a  considerable 
distance  in  fhe  vicinity  of  Wat  Hoix,  is  on  the  edge  of  the 
river,  and  a  protecting  solid  wali  of  stone,  smooth  and  at  a 
low  depressed  angle,  rises  from  the  water's  edge  as  the  rapid 
current  sweeps  towards  the  falls.  .  >, 

The  next  two  miles  contain  two  locks,  of  nine  feet  rise 
each,  and  a  guard  lock  and  feeder  of  half  a  mile  from  the 
Mohawk,  and  a  high  bank  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet, — 
and  in  two  miles  farther  we  arrive  at  the  Upper  Jlqueduct 
over  the  Mohawk,  where  the  canal  again  recrosses  to  the 
south  bank,  seven  hundred  and  forty-eight  feet  in  extent,  on 
sixteen  piers  of  limestone,  twenty-five  feet  above  the  river, 
the  trunk  of  the  canal  of  wood,  as  on  the  other.  The  coup 
d'ceil  here  is  very  fine.  Here  are  also  three  locks,  of  seven 
feet  lift  each,  and  in  a  short  distance  the  old  Alexander  bridge, 
and  mills,  on  the  old  Albany  and  Ballston  road.  The  rock 
of  gray  wacke  slate  is  in  the  county  of  Schenectady.  Three 
m'les  farther  we  pass  in  front  of  Union  College^  and  soon  are 
in  Schenectady.  The  view  over  the  vale  on  entering  is  pleas- 
ing in  the  highest  degree.  The  two  edifices  of  the  college  are 
each  two  hundred  feet  long,  and  four  stories  in  height,  and 
six  more  are  requisite  to  complete  the  plan.  $300,000  have 
been  bestowed  by  the  State,  or  rather  permitted  to  be  raised  by 
lottery,  for  the  benefit  of  this  literary  institution,  but  causing 
the  most  injury  to  society  of  any  method  that  could  be  adopt- 
ed to  raise  funds.  There  is  a  President,  (Dr.  Nott,)  seven 
professors,  ateacher  of  French  and  Spanish,  and  two  hundred 
and  eighty-five  students.  Annual  expense,  board  in  the  hall, 
j!i98,  fuel  and  light  $8,  washing  $6.    There  are  three  terms 

8* 


I  •' 


90 


Sehenectady^Erie  Canal. 


•'  in  the  year,  and  the  expenses  of  each  are  payable  in  advance. 

The  first  settlement  of  this  town  was  in  1620,  by  a  colony  of 
Dutch,  to  ^nga^e  in  the  fur  trade,  in  despite  of  the  one  at 
Albany  ;  and  this  continued  peaceably  until  1661,  when  Arent 
Van  Corlaer,  and  others,  received  a  grant  from  the  govern- 
ment on  extinguishing  the  Indian  title,  and  in  1664  surveys 
were  made,  and  an  inroad  was  eifecred  by  the  Canadian 
French,  but  they  lost  their  way  and  were  near  perishing  from 
\^  fatigue  and  famine;  but  Van  Corlaer  generously  enabled  them 
to  return  in  peace,  unmolested,  in  return  for  this  generous 
and  kind  treatment,  twenty-six  years  siubsequently,  namely, 
in  1690,  the  town,  then  composed  of  sixty-three  houses  and  a 
church,  was  burned  by  a  party  of  French  and  Indians,  in  the 
night  of  8ih  February,  killing  and  capturing  most  of  the 
i(  inhabitants;  and  this   was  repeated   in    1748,   and  seventy 

ll  \  citizens  slair  .     A  fire  in   1819,  on  17ih  November,  destroyed 

'^'  one  hundred  and  seventy  buildings,  but  within  a  few  years 

past  the  city  has  been  prosperous,  from  the  rail-road  and  canal 
that  pass  through  it. 

The  city  int  on  twenty  streets,  has  nine  places  of  public 
worship,  two  academies,  a  Lancaster  and  several  select  and 
district  schools,  six  newspapers,  two  banks,  capital  $385,000, 
an  insurance  company  of  $100,000,  twelve  hundred  houses, 
and  about  six  thousand  inhabitants, — an  iron  and  a  brass 
foundery,, carpet,  satin,  and  tobacco  factory,  a  paper  mill,  &c. 
A  covered  bridge  extends  over  the  river  one  thousand  feet. 
The  rail-road  bridge  also  runs  north  over  the  flats  and  cause- 
way fur  three-fourths  of  a  mile  ;  thence  the  road  to  Bailston 
turns  northeast  four  miles,  thence  northerly  along  the  lake, 
entering  the  village,  and  crossing*  the  Kynderossera  hy  a 
good  bridge,  and  thence  to  Saratoga — whole  distance  from 
Schenectady  twenty-one  and  a  half  miles,  neatly  level,  the 
greatest  variation  being  only  sixteen  feet  to  a  mile,  the  rails 
of  wood,  with  iron  plates,  and  the  cost  only  $300,000,  with 
cars,  engines  &c. 

Ttie  canal  passenger-boats  leave  from  this  place  at  half  past 
seven  in  the  morning  and  half  past  six  in  the  evening,  and 
are  eighteen  to  twenty  hours  to  Utica.  Price  for  the  eighty 
miles,  four  cents  per  mile  including  meals.  The  next  four 
miles,  across  the  luxuriant  flats  of  the  Mohawk,  takes  us 
skirting  along  tho  base  of  the  southern  ridge  to  Rotterdam^ 
passing  two  locks,  of  eight  feet  lift  each.  There  are  nine 
islands  in  the  river,  from  two  to  one  hundred  and  twooty  acres, 


Flint  Hill — Schoharie  Creek. 


that  the  BinnekiU  cuts  off  from  the  main.  The  village  has 
two  Dutch  churches,  one  cotton  factory  of  two  thousand 
spindles,  fifty  looms  that  make  four  hundred  thousand  yards 
of  goods  and  thirty  thousand  pounds  of  yarn  annually,  one 
carpet  factory,  two  carding  and  cloth-dressing  in'iha,  four  grist 
mills  of  three  runs,  and  one  iron  casting  furnace,  and  twentv> 
five  dwellings.  In  a  mile  and  three-quarters  we  come  to  the 
aqueduct  over  the  PlatlekiU,  that  has  a  waterfall  of  aliout  eighty 
feet  in  ten  rods,  with  a  perpendicular  pilch  of  fifty  feet,  a  vein 
of  lead  ore  in  a  gangue  of  slate  three  quarters  of  a  mile  above 
the  falls,  that  are  a  mile  from  the  river.  Thence  in  three  and 
a  quarter  miles  is  another  lock  of  eight  feet,  and  in  two  and 
a  quarter  miles  we  are  at  the  limit  of  the  county  of  Schenec- 
tady, and  enter  upon  M(mtgomery,  and  in  one  mile  pass  Flint 
Hill,  a  branch  of  tho  Catskill  that  is  here  pierced  by  the 
Mohawk,  and  on  the  north  connects  with  the  range  that  ex- 
tend toward  the  sources  of  the  Hudson  River ;  the  rock  here  is 
sandstone. 

Three  and  a  half  miles  are  two  locks,  of  eight  feet  rise  each, 
and  an  aqueduct,  and  in  three  miles  we  arrive  at  the  bridge 
over  the  Mohawk  to  Amsterdam,  (see  index  and  |tage47.) 
The  population  here  is  of  a  mixed  character,  being  descend- 
ants from  Dutch,  Gef«Mwis,  Irish,  Scotch,  &,c.  Minaville,  or 
Yankee  Street,  four  miles  south  of  the  canal  on  the  Chucta- 
nunda  Creek,  has  a  church  of  Presbyterians,  a  tavern,  two 
stores,  and  forty  dwellings.  Po7U  Jackson  has  three  stores, 
two  taverns,  and  twenty  dwellings. 

An  aqueduct  passes  over  the  Chuctanunda  Creek,  that  rises 
twelve  miles  south  in  the  high  region  around  D.uanesburg 
and  drives  twenty  mills.  Its  name  is  purely  Indian,  and  means 
stony  bottom.  Another  creek  of  the  same  name  enters  into 
the  Mohawk  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.   si^vMv 

In  four  miles  we  pass  two  locks,  one  of  eight  and  the  othor 
of  four  feet  lift,  and  on  the  site  of  the  eastern  guard  lock  former- 
ly stood  Queen  Anne's  chapel  and  the  old  Mohawk  castle. 
The  Indians  granted  a  tract  of  land  for  the  use  of  the  Episco* 
pal  missionary  at  this  church,  and  with  their  beloved  teacher 
fled  to  Canada  during  the  revolutionary  war,  where  he  be- 
came a  bishop,  and  the  Indians  sent  back  for  their  church  bell. 

Schoharie  Creek,  fifty  miles  from  Albany, — though  called  a 
creek  it  is  ten  rods  wide,  and  at  times  would  pass  for  a  respec- 
table stream,  being  subject  to  great  and  sudden  freshets  from 
the  Catskill  mountain  region,  where  it  has  its  origin  seventy 


«', 


62 


BalV»  Cave^Erie  Canal 


• 


miles  south, — is  rapid  in  its  course,  and  is  bordered  by  lofly 
hills  and  precipices,  and  famous  for  its  drift  or  floodwood,  and 
that  is  the  indication  of  the  Indian  name.  It  is  tho  largest 
tributary  of  the  Mohawk,  and  there  are  rich  flats  on  its  bor« 
ders,  one  to  two  miles  wide  in  Middleburgh,  and  Sclioharie^lhe 
county  seat,  a  small  village,  a  court-house  of  stone,  three 
stories  high,  county  clerk's  office,  a  Lutheran  and  a  Dutch 
church,  two  academies,  one  hundred  and  twenty  dwellings, 
five  stores,  three  taverns,  five  mills  ;  the  old  stone  church 
served  as  a  fortress  when  Brandt,  and  Butler,  and  Johnson 
attacked  in  the  war  of  the  revolution ;  and  four  miles  north- 
east is  BaWs  crtve,  two  hundred  feet  in  depth,  with  numerous 
apartments,  a  lake  thirty  feet  deep  and  half  a  mile  long,  an 
amphitheatre  one  hundred  feet  in  diameter  and  one  hundred 
high,  the  floor  descending  on  all  sides  to  tho  centre,  the  roof 
horizontal,  its  walls  rich  in  slalactetic  decoration.  The  en- 
trance to  this  cavern  is  by  a  perpendicular  descent  of  seventy- 
five  feet,  and  is  effected  by  ropes. 

Fort  Hunter,  cast  side  of  the  creek.  The  passoge  of  the 
canal  boats  over  the  surface  of  the  river  just  above  the  dam 
of  twenty  feet,  is  effected  by  means  of  a  rope,  or  cable,  worked 
by  horses  and  wound  round  a  drum,  or  cylinder,  on  the  shore. 
If  the  rope  should  give  way,  the  boat  and  passengers  must  go 
over  the  dam-^but  this  seldom  happens.  The  boat  then  en- 
ters a  lock  of  six  feet  rise,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Schoharie, 
and  in  two  miles  arrives  at  the  canal  house,  of  singular  form, 
in  Smithtown,  or  Glen,  and  to  Isherkill  aqueduct,  and  Aries- 
kill  dam  and  guard  locks,  and  in  two  and  a  half  miles  to 
another  lock  of  seven  feet  rise,  nearly  opposite  Caughnawaga 
and  Johnstown.  (See  index,  and  page  48.) 

In  six  miles  we  cross  the  little  aqueduct  and  basin  opposite 
the  LitlU  Nose^  and  in  one  mile  to  Avthonifa  Nost^  in  the 
township  of  Root,  and  here  we  first  encounter  the  primitive 
or  gneiss  rock  in  this  valley,  in  the  cliffs  near  the  river  is  a 
cave  that  is  said  to  penetrate  several  hundred  feet  into  the 
bowels  of  the  mountain,  with  the  walls  encrusted  in  the  usual 
manner.  ' 

Sprakcr's  basin,  dam,  and  guard  lock  is  two  and  a  quarter 
miles  beyond  the  nose,  and  in  two  and  three-quarJer  miles  is 
another  lock  of  six  feet  rise,  when  we  are  at  Cauajoharie  on 
the  creek  of  that  name,  with  a  guard  lock  and  a  bridge  across 
the  Mohawk  to  Palatine.     (See  index  and  page  46.) 

The  Canajoharie,  or  Bownan  Creek,  rises  in  the  ridge  of 


.^7/. 


Erie  Canalf  SfC, 


land  that  separates  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk  froin  the  extreme 
head  waters  of  the  Susquehanna  River,  and  in  the  valley  south 
of  this  ridge,  that  may  perhaps  be  a  thousand  feet  above  the 
river,  is  cradled  tho  town  of  Cherry  Valley  and  the  beautiful 
Ohego  Lake,  that,  at  its  outlet  at  Cooperstown,  empties  its 
pellucid  waters  into  the  charming  valley  of  the  Susquehannah, 
that  meanders  for  several  hundred  miles  in  a  southerly  direc- 
tion to  reach  the  Chesapeake,  and  yet  is  only  separated  from 
the  Mohawk  by  a  roof,  or  slope,  of  mountainous  land  about 
ten  miles  broad.  The  fall  of  the  Canajoharie  Creek  in  its 
course  of  twenty  miles  is  eight  hundred  feet  or  more.  Its 
valley  is  overlooked  with  the  greatest  delight  from  the  ridge 
just  mentioned,  cast  of  Cherry  Valley,  and  presents  one  of 
the  most  extensive  and  splendid  landscapes  in  the  State. 

Tho  rail* road  from  this  to  Catskill,  seventy  miles  in  a  south- 
east direction,  will  pursue  the  base  of  the  north-east  face  of 
the  ridge.  This  village  is  a  place  of  some  trade,  and  has  a 
factory  for  making  cotton  and  woolen  goods,  a  Dutch  church, 
an  academy,  a  library,  two  newspapers,  four  taverns,  three 
distilleries,  two  flour  and  two  saw-mills,  seven  stores,  one 
hundred  dwellings. 

Canajoharie  Centre^  on  the  head  of  Bowman's  Creek,  has  a 
Presbyterian  churcti  and  a  few  dwellings,  and  here  is  the 
Central  Asylum  for  the  deaf  and  dumb. 

In  following  our  course  for  three  and  a  half  miles  opposite 
to  Stone  Arabia  (four  miles  in  the  interior,  on  the  north  bank) 
we  meet  with  n  lock  of  seven  feet  rise,  and  the  guard  lock  on 
the  Otsquaga  Creek,  in  the  town  of  Minden,  and  Fort  Plain 
village.  The  Otsquaga  Creek  gushes  from  three  springs,  and 
has  at  its  source  power  to  drive  three  mills,  is  highly  charged 
with  calcareous  matter,  and  has  formed  in  its  dell,  tufTa  and 
petrifactions,  and  after  a  rapid  descent  to  the  norlh-east, 
thronoh  Minden,  falls  into  the  Mohawk  at  Fort  Plain. 

Minden  township  has  a  front  of  eight  miles  along  the  river, 
a  surface  most  agreeably  undulated  with  ridges  and  hills  of  a 
moderate  height,  and  pleasant  and  fertile  valleys,  and  fine 
alluvial  tracts  along  the  Mohawk  and  Otsquaga.  It  was  early 
Settled  by  Germans,  and  abounds  in  local  names,  viz.  Dutch 
Town  or  the  Dorf  in  the  north.  Fort  Plain  in  the  north-east, 
Gilspnberg  in  the  centre,  and  Ford's  Balh  in  the  west,  and 
the  Bush  in  the  south  ;  there  are  two  Dutch  churches,  and 
seven  saw  mills,  and  a  fulling  mill. 
In  three  miles  onward,  a  feeder  comes  in  from  the  river 


94 


Valley  of  the   Mohawk, 


II 


I 


above  the  dam,  and  a  lock  of  eight  feet  rise,  and  the  dam  and 
^uard-lock  opposite  St.  Johnsville  in  Oppenheim,  and  in  two 
miles  farther  at  Crous'  is  a  lock  of  eight  feer,  and  one  and  a 
half  miles  more  we  are  opposite  the  mouth  of  £nst  Canada 
Creek,  and  the  Gulf  bridge,  on  the  rail*road,  of  one  arch  of  one 
hundred  and  sixty  feet  span,  elevated  sixty  feet  above  the 
water,  and  in  two  miles  we  enter  another  lock  of  eight  feet 
rise,  in  the  township  of  Danube. 

A  Mohawk  castle  and  a  church  for  the  Indians,  under  the 
patronage  of  the  English,  formerly  stood  at  the  mouth  of  (he 
Nowadaga  Creek,  that,  with  its  dam,  and  guard  locks,  and 
towpath  of  four  hundred  feet,  is  passed  in  a  mile,  and  in  two 
more  the  grave  of  General  Herkimer,  his  brick  house  being 
seen  on  elevated  ground : — he  was  slain  in  the  Oriskany 
battle. 

We  are  now  drawing  near  to  the  most  interesting  portion 
of  the  Mohawk  valley,  the  passage  of  the  river  through  the 
rocky  gulf  or  barrier.  The  defile  is  two  miles  long  M'ith  an 
averRge  breadth  of  six  hundred  yards,  bordered  by  rocky  and 
wood'clad  hills  of  four  hundred  feet  in  height;  the  rocUs  are 
granite  gneiss  and  hornblend,  with  calciferous  sand  rock 
overlaid  by  transition  limestone. 

The  Little  Falls  of  the  Mohawk  are  eo  termed  in  contrast 
to  the  greater  descent  of  the  river  at  the  Cahoes  below,  and 
this  is  one  of  those  distinguished  geographical  positions  that 
is  presented  in  a  far  less  picturesque  form  at  the  Wind  Gap 
and  Water  Gap  on  the  Delaware  ;  at  various  places  on  the 
Susquehannah ;  at  the  union  of  the  Shenandoah  and  Potomac 
in  Virginia;  and  the  passage  of  the  Hudson  through  the 
highlands  of  New-York;  though  the  volume  of  water  in  the 
places  referred  to  may  be  vastly  superior,  and  the  natural 
outlines  on  a  more  magnificent  scale ;  yet  the  combination  of 
natural  objects,  with  those  of  artificial  creation  by  the  labor 
and  ingenuity  of  man,  that  are  here  brought  into  direct  asso- 
ciation and  contrast,  infinitely  surpasses  that  of  any  other 
position  in  the  United  States.  Here  are  brought  into  juxta- 
position, side  by  side,  the  Erie  Canal  with  its  nest  of  locks, 
and  the  much  admired  aqueduct  and  road  bridge  itrmcdiately 
over  the  main  chute  of  the  Mohawk;  the  line  of  road  also 
adjoining  the  canal  on  that  side ;  then  the  river  and  the  re- 
mains of  the  old  flumes  and  locks  of  the  original  canal  com- 
pany ;  then  the  new  line  of  rail-road,  and  the  expensive  rock 
excavations  and  embankments,  and  the  old  turnpike  road  on 


Little  FalU-^Erie  Canai. 


95 


the  north  tide,  hommed  in  by  perpendicular  rocks  that  n^e 
almost  grazed  by  the  cars,— these  arrest  the  attention  of  the 
admii'ing  and  wondering  traveler,  and  ifcxamination  \i  made 
into  the  geological  signs  and  marks  that  nature  has  implanted 
in  indelible  characters,  so  that  he  that  flies  may  see,  and  he 
that  "runs  may  read,"  tho  student  of  natural  science,  and 
others  that  havo  even  slightly  attended  to  such  suhjects,  muflt 
be  impressed  with  the  remarkable  and  striking  features  of  the 
entire  panorama. 

The  descent  of  the  river  in  three-quarters  of  a  mile  is  forty- 
two  feet,  the  marble  aqueduct  is  two  hundred  and  fourteen 
feet  long  and  sixteen  wide,  with  walls  fourteen  feet  high  and 
four  broad,  upheld  by  one  arch  of  seventy  and  two  others  of 
fifty  feet  span  each,  together  with  the  abutments ;  a  balus- 
trade on  the  parapet  renders  it  secure  for  passengers  that  may 
devote  a  short  time  to  its  examination.  The  adjacent  village 
has  a  factory  for  making  cotton  and  woolen  goods,  two  fur- 
naces for  casting  iron,  two  grist,  two  saw,  two  paper-mills, 
two  tanneries,  two  machine-shops,  one  trip-hammer,  one  card- 
ing und  dressing  mill,  four  churches,  two  academies,  a  bank, 
capital  of  $200,000,  eleven  lawyers,  five  physicians,  two  print- 
ing offices  and  papers,  three  hundred  and  fifty  stone  dwell- 
ings, that  receive  a  supply  of  water  in  pipes  from  an  elevated 
spring  three  hundred  feet  higher  than  the  settlement.  The 
land,  or  rock,  formerly  was  held  for  many  years  by  a  Mr. 
Ellis,  an  Englishman,  disinclined  to  improve  or  sell  untii 
recently.  It  has  been  purchased  by  n  gentleman  of  Mew- 
York,  R.  Ward.  It  is  seventy-nine  miles  from  Albany,  twenty 
from  Utica. 

There  are  five  locks  within  a  mile,  of  eight  feet  lift  each, 
and  in  the  river  and  on  the  bank  of  the  canal  are  huge  rocky 
masses  and  pillars  of  grotesque  water-worn  forms,  and  for  a 
long  distance  near  here  the  canal  is  supported  by  a  wall  of 
masonry  that  encroaches  boldly  on  the  bed  of  the  river,  and 
the  deck  of  the  canal-boat  affords  an  excellent  view,  in  pasiising 
through  the  locks  of  this  famous  mountain  gorge,  that  at 
first  was  beheld  by  the  canal  contractors  with  dismay,  from 
the  difficulties  that  were  anticipated  at  this  spot  in  forming  a 
trench  or  line  in  such  a  knotty,  contracted  glen,  and  two  or 
three  years  were  allowed  by  the  canal  commissioners,  and 
supposed  to  be  necessary  for  thf3  excavation  and  construction ; 
hut  it  was  effected  in  three  months  by  some  unexpected  facili- 
ties, or  some  new  wholesale  method  of  blasting,  by  which 


06 


Erie  CaroU—'Mohaibk  Village-' Herkimer, 


! 


•i 


.<!  1 


masiei  of  eighty  to  one  hundred  tons  were  thrown  out  nt  a 
time  l)y  a  profuse  quantity  of  gunpowder— the  explosions 
rent  asunder  the  face  of  the  mountain,  and  shook  the  country 
fur  miles  around  like  an  carthquak*  . 

After  passing  through  the  second  of  the  locks,  we  leave  the 
ravine,  and  also  the  gneiss  rock,  and  the  last  seen  for  some 
^  time  as  we  go  west,  then  pass  in  two  and  a  half  miles  three 

locks,  of  eight  feet  lift  each,  and  in  four  and  a  half  miles,  two 
more  locks  at  the  German  Flals^  one  of  eight  and  one  of  nine 
feet  rise,  near  a  stone  church  used  as  a  fortress,  and  Fort 
Herkimer,  and  in  one  mile  we  arrive  opposite  the  mouth  of 
West  Canada  Creek,  on  the  north  side  of  the  Mohawk,  that 
comes  down  the  Trenton  Fall?,  (see  index,  p.  63.)  The  flats 
arc  celebrated  for  their  fertility,  but  are  not  superior  to  many 
i  (  regions  farther  west,  and  have  lost  their  exclusive  character, 

since  the  western  States  of  the  Union  have  become  more  fa- 
miliarly known. 

A  canal  has  been  cut  around  the  Wolf  rift  in  the  Mohawk, 

one  and  a  half  miles  in  length,  giving  water  power.    Mohawk, 

a  village  of  thirty  dwellings,  and  a  few  stores,  is  one  mile 

south,  and  a  post>office  called  Paine's  Hollow.    A  bridge  here 

leads  over  to  Herkimer,  three'quarters  of  a  mile  north,  that 

has  a  neat  Dutch  and  Methodist  church,  and  a  brick  court- 

,    house,  and  stone  jail,  and  county  clerk's  office,  one  hundred 

/    and  twenty  dwellings,  five  taverns  and  stores,  and  a  hydraulic 

'''  company,  that  have,  at  the  expense  of  forty  thousand  dollars, 

cut  a  canal,  and  constructed  extensive  works. 

After  passing  in  a  short  distance  through  an  extensive  dug 
way  in  a  high  hill  of  clay  and  sand,  is  another  bridge,  a  lock 
of  eight  feet  rise,  and  another  of  the  same  at  Fulmar's  Creek 
aqueduct,  and  in  one  and  a  half  miles  we  pass  Steel's  Creek 
aqueduct  and  feeder,  and  in  one  and  a  quarter  miles,  two  locks, 
of  eight  feet  rise  each,  and  in  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  the 
aqueduct  over  Myer's  Creek,  and  are  at  Frankfort,  a  village 
of  fifty  dwellings,  two  churches,  a  Presbyterian  and  Baptist, 
two  taverns,  seven  stores,  a  furnace  that  makes  iron  ware  to 
the  value  oi  thirty  thousand  dollars  a  year,  and  a  factory  for 
cotton  and  woollen  goods  and  machinery.  The  rail-road  is 
here  on  the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk  to  Utica. 

The  long  level  of  sixty-nine,  and  a  half  miles  without  a 
lock,  here  commences,  and  extends  westward  through  Utica, 
Whitestown,  Rome,  Verona,  Lenox,  Sullivan,  Manlius,  to 
Lodi,  near  Syracuse.     This  portion  of  the  canal  was  the 


I 


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':;':iw.  ^'■<%is;f'i*'#?i.  M^ss- itPtSfe  ti*f6!W»  natal  f? 

i-y  #'  >^>mp«W'!p;-f'4*".*a'?#  riplosion* 

:'  }{?«  mi»ui!it«iJ«,  fltot^  fit;''**  tl*«  country 

.     ,f  •       ag».>  the  second  of  the  soetef  irs--lifs«vfe  thft 
i«^  •  ■ia.>''imlhitgr'iii»»T<nzk,  aiu!  Ui*.^.  last,  »«)*ft>  for  som<::) 

*^M#  J*  f««  ftu  wflj^t,  ihei'j  prisy  in  Uvo  y.i>d  a  haH"  miu:*  threiv 
V"-^iNij  i^f  •;»i|*fW*.  tV-^t  lifJ.  each,  and  In  luUi  aj>tit  «  haJj  uiil's,  tivo 
'.rfSW  *^%Ti.^i?;*  Si«  tli**  Oi^rman  FUits^  or.o  of  eight  and  ons  fti'  nine 
''■«^t- ijikj  »'S>ri  <^  »■  'W*  fiiutcl.  iisfd  83  »  ioj tress,  and  Fort 
Hsil-ifc^^-f  iw«i  in  0;.€  mile  we  arrivt*  oppossi<!  the  month  ot' 
%}%9i  '<.-.^iM*ii,  Creek,  o:;  thf  norlh  ^iide  oJ  Uh'  Moha^vl--,  that 
•;v<ifi«*  itiuwn  the  Tit'nvoD  Faili?,  (««;e  in<lejt,  j;,  63  )  The  tlat;K 
'j^'«  ;.j*1f*'»rated  (or  thru  f'eM*'tiJy,  but  are  nut  superior  to  msoy 
»'f||'io««  iariher  west,  znd  have  lost  their  exelusiv*'  chflrnctcr, 
■tA^'^^  ih«  v/esrern  Slates  qi  tie  Unit>«  havti  become  more  fa- 

h  eanol  Ir-s  befw  cut  around  the  Woif  r^H  in  the  Mohawk, 
•  Hitf  and  a  hftUiTHJos  in  h-^nrth,  giving'  wal';  r  power.  Mohamk, 
^  ^itJagg  oi'  Ihiriy  dweiUnu!*.  h?>«*.  *"  ff^w  stores,  is  one  nii}** 
*^^u?b,  and  a  poslntl^lee  called  l*>:^.f'4  Hollow.  A  bridge  here 
i;:!^t  ovi'«;  fo  /iVm";H'?r,  threc-qiiatCer»  at  ft  ^nisT  north,  thai 
JMiii  41  ne-it  DutoU  and  Mf;t.hoi»ttt  church,  ana  a  brick  court- 
ii#aaet  atid  stonsj  jaiS,  f?iU  ct>tn>Vv  c5«*?li''»  office,  cfie  h«ndr«.'d 
sasMt  tv^enty  dw.^llin^f.  five  u  .ern«  nm!  (itorf;fi,  hw  u  hydraulic 
<jif»;i5fpar;y,  tliat  liav/'  at  the  expense  of  forty  thouijan-i  doHarH, 
cut  a  canal,  and  '.o.istrucifid  8x(eij!<ivo  works. 

Alter  pas'^injr  in  a  short  distance  through  sn  esttnslve  dug 

•r;ir  jrt  a  hi'Ax  hi!!  of  clay  and  sand,  h  another  hridgc,  n  lovk 

•a^  ^  igl  I  feet  r:se,  and  anottier  ot  l1i«.'  same  at  Fulmcr's  Utefk 

■«rf''*?<iuct,  and  in  one  and  a  ^hM  ta^^h  we  pass  Stee'J's  Crerk 

J;sj^te.inct  and  i   nlct ,  wnd  hi  R»je  and  a  quartp"*  r«)ik'«,  two  locks. 

■    t-ight  fer.t  the  each,  and  n\  throe-quarttrt  ol  «»  fr»iie    the 

ttqut'duct  ovcf  My-r'^  Cr«.ek,  Axv<ii  are  ai  FrankforL  a  villag* 

'^f'ly  dweiiingSf,  tvnji  churches,  a  Presbyterian  ao*d  Baptist, 

fvern.s,  8ev«?n  'Storos*  a  f:unac«;  that  makes  iron  ware  to 

.Kiiw?.  of  thirty  ihou<<»nd  dollars  a  year,  and  a  f'Hotory  Rt 

viottv.n  und  %vooi!cn  I'oous  mhI  machinery,     'i  he  rail-road  jS 

f.<*r'^  on  the  south  mU:.  of  -he  Mo}\hv  k  to  Tt  ca. 

'J'hc  ioiif^  level  of  sixtyrine  aftd  a  iiati  mih'sj  without*  ft 
«>'.;!:,  here  connnences,  :ird  fwtends  we««;ward  throiJ<.Th  UlJcK: 
'"^itdieHtowti,  Rome,  Vtfrot»:.:,   Lenox,  Sujlivan,«,  IVIun'Jnh^   u 
j[^,i.,  near  t^yr&cuse.      ihi:?  porti-^Mi  of  the  canal  wan,  il- 


t.' 


ar«' . 


^^^^mf^H^^^ni^^^m^ 


mmmmmmm 


naiip 


\^ 


Viiea— Schenectady. 


fir 


easiest,  and  the  first  made.  It  is  the  longest  canal  level  known, 
and  is  a  remarkable  feature  in  the  geography  of  the  country* 
as  it  follows  a  prolonged  extent  of  table  land  from  the  upper 
waters  of  the  Mohawk,  along  the  south  of  the  Oneida  LakCi 
toivards  the  Onondaga  River  and  Lake  Ontario. 

In  six  miles  we  pass  Ferguson's  Creek  aqueduct,  and  in 
one  mile  Clark's  Creek  aqueduct  on  four  arches,  and  in  two 
miles  we  are  at  Vlica.  This  city  has  a  population  of  twelve 
thousand,  sixteen  places  of  public  worship  of  all  the  sects, 
four  academies  or  high  schools,  forty-three  schools,  a  Lyceum; 
and  Medical  Society,  and  Mechanical  Association,  with  lec- 
tures, models,  &c.  a  library,  and  another  for  apprentices,  and 
also  the  Young  Men's  Association,  reading  and  news-room, 
and  library,  with  debates,  and  lectures  on  literary  and  scien- 
tific subjects.  Their  room,  &c.  open  to  all  stjrangers.  A  mu- 
seumi  three  banks,  capital  one  million  five  hundred  thousand 
dollars,  an  insurance  company,  capital  two  hundred  thousand 
dollars,  three  political  and  three  religious  newspapers,  a  thea- 
tre, twenty-one  inns,  including  several  spacious  hotels. ; 

The  line  of  rail-road  is  now  complete  from  Albany  to 
Auburn.  Passengers  can  now  leave  New-York  at  five  o'clock, 
be  in  Utica  at  three  o'clock  the  next  afternoon,  at  Syracuse  at 
six,  at  Auburn  at  eight,  and  at  Rochester  at  five  o'clock  the 
next  morning,  and  then  to  Bufialo  via  Batavia  in  twelve 
hours—- arriving  there  at  five  o'clock — fortt-eight  hours 
from  New- York. 

The  rail-road  hence  to  Schenectady  is  described  at  p.  45  to 
52.  This  is  a  famous  point  for  the  divergence  of  roads,  stages, 
and  canals,  to  all  parts  of  the  State.  Hundreds  of  canal 
boats,  laden  with  the  productions  of  the  interior,  are  con- 
stantly passing  to  the  east,  and  others  with  foreign  merchan- 
dise to  the  west.  This  is  a  net  that  catches  both  wa3's,  and 
passengers  here  usually  leave  the  canal,  from  its  tediousness 
or  monotony,  and  adopt  some  new  mode  of  conveyance. 

This  city  has  a  mayor,  twelve  aldermen,  four  justices,  and 
four  wards  ;  is  distant  from  New-Yoik  two  hundred  and 
thirty-seven  miles,  Albany  ninety-three,  Rochester  one  hun- 
dred and  forty,  Bufi'aio  two  hundred  and  two,  Ithaca  ninety- 
six,  Oswego  on  Lake  Ontario  seventy-six,  Sackett's  Harbor 
ninety  four,  Ogdensburg  one  hundred  and  forty-five. 

The  city  is  on  the  south  side  of  the  Mohawk,  and  occupies 
a  slope  that  faces  to  the  north-west,  rising  in  the  rear  of  the 
city  to  an  eminence  of  considerable  interest,  and  overlooking 

9 


!*. 


98      Oneida  Countij — Chaieau^ua  Hills — Oneida  Lake, 

the  valley  of  the  Mohawk  for  miles  towards  Whitestown, 
Rome,  the  Oneida  Lake,  &c.  with  the  heights  that  lead  to 
Trenton  Falls  fronting  the  spectator  on  the  north  and  east. 

Much  of  the  exciting  interest  involved  in  the  history  of  the 
wars  of  1756,  and  1776  to  83,  as  to  the  border  and  partizan 
warfare  of  those  days,  is  derived  from  this  vicinity,  as  in  the 
siege  of  Fort  Schuyler,  that  vas  situated  near  the  dep6t  and 
bridge  at  the  foot  of  the  main-street. 

Oneida  County,  that  we  are  now  in,  contains  nineteen  large 
cotton  factories,  capital  about  eight  hundred  thousand  dollars, 
and  having  thirty-three  thousand  two  hundred  and  thirty-four 
spindles,  and  making-  five  million  six  hundred  and  ninety-seven 
thousand  five  hundred  yards  in  a  year,  and  use  one  million 
eight  hundred  and  sixty-three  pounds  of  cotton.  Terms  of  the 
Supreme  and  of  the  United  Slates  Circuit  Courts  are  held  here. 

The  Chateaugua  hills  in  the  north-east,  in  Remscn,  between 
Trenton  Falls  and  the  Black  River,  are  eight  hundred  and 
forty  feet  high,  and  south  of  that,  the  Hassencleaver  Moun- 
tain in  Deerfield  and  Marcy  rises  from  eight  hundred  to  one 
thousand  two  hundred  feet  from  a  base  of  eight  or  nine  miles 
broad,  and  a  chain  twenty  miles  long  ;  and  in  the  south,  the 
ridge  that  divides  the  waters  of  the  Susquehannah  from  those 
of  the  Mohawk  is  one  thousand  six  hundred  and  twenty-nine 
feet  above  tide,  and  the  summit  level  of  the  Chenango  Canal, 
at  the  head  of  the  river,  is  seven  hundred  and  six  feet  above 
the  Erie  Canal. 

The  central  part  of  the  county  that  we  pass  through  as  we 
leave  Utica,  is  remarkably  depressed  below  the  country  to  the 
south  and  north-east.  The  vale  in  ils  western  portion,  inclu- 
ding the  head  of  the  Oneida  Lake,  is  from  ten  to  twelve  miles 
broad,  but  along  the  Mohawk,  only  two  to  six  miles.  The 
great  cedar  swamp  south  of  Rome  is  three  miles  broad,  and 
from  the  hfcad  of  the  Oneida  Lake  to  the  Rome  summit  east, 
thirteen  miles;  tlie  rise  is  sixty  feet,  and  on  the  north  and 
south  sides  of  the  lake  it  is  equally  gradual  in  a  few  miles. 

The  Oneida  Lake  is  twenty-one  miles  lon;o,  east  to  west,  and 
three  to  five  wide,  three  hundred  and  seventy-six  feet  above 
tide,  and  one  hundred  and  forty-five  above  Lake  Ontario,  and 
its  area  is  seventy  or  eighty  square  miles.  It  abounds  with 
salmon,  bass,  pike,  cat  fish,  duce,  suckers,  perch,  eels,  &c. 
Fort  Royal  block-house  stood  at  the  entrance  of  Wood  Creek, 
and  Fort  Brewerton  at  the  west  end  of  the  lake. 
The  outlet,  or  the  Oneida  River,  twenty  rods  wide  at  the 


Oneida  Lake  Canal— Oneida  Institute. 


99 


old  French  Fort,  winds  sixteen  miles  to  attain  eight  of  west- 
ing-, and  forms,  at  its  junction  with  the  Seneca,  the  Cswego 
River. 

The  Oneida  Lake  Canal  extends  from  the  Eric  Canal  in 
Verona  to  Wood  Creek,  three  and  three-quarter  miles,  cost 
seventy  thousand  dollars;  has  one  guard  and  seven  lift  locks, 
fall  fifty-seven  and  a  half  feet,  locks  ninety-six  hy  fifteen  and 
a  half  To  return  the  water  that  is  drawn  from  the  Erie 
Canal,  an  equivalent  is  provided  hy  a  feeder  from  the  Oneida 
Creek  at  the  castle,  three  and  a  quarter  miles  long,  with  a  lock 
of  four  feet  lift,  and  guard  gate.  The  feeder  intersects  the 
Erie  Canal  five  miles  west  of  the  Oneida  Lake  Canal. 

Resuming  our  western  route  on  leaving  Utica,  the  canal 
winds  along  the  level  region  above  referred  to,  and  in  three 
and  a  quarter  miles  we  arrive  at  the  Saughdaquada  or  Sau- 
quoit  Creek  and  aqueduct,  near  the  village  of  Whifeslown,  the 
nucleus  of  the  first  settlement  beyond  Albany,  in  1738.  It  is 
a  half- shire  or  place  of  the  courts,  in  part  for  this  county  with 
Rome.  Here  is  a  Presbyterian  and  Baptist  Church,  Harvey's 
cotton  factory,  a  brick  court-house,  a  prison,  one  hundred 
dwellings,  neat  and  pleasing  to  the  eye,  four  stores. 

The  Oneida  (manual  labor)  Institute  requires  three  hours* 
labor  per  day  from  each  student,  as  conducive  to  health,  on 
the  farm  of  one  hundred  and  fourteen  acres  on  the  left  or 
west  bank  of  the  Sauquoit  Creek,  in  full  view.  The  buildings 
are  of  wood,  eighty-two  by  thirty-two,  and  forty-eight  by 
forty-eight,  both  three  stories  high,  including  in  the  latter  edi- 
fice a  chapel,  lecture-room,  library,  readmg-room,  dining 
hall,  and  family  rooms.  Another  edifice  forty  by  twenty-eight 
feet,  is  the  kitchen  and  steward's  departments.  Students  of 
fifteen  to  the  upper  class,  and  from  ten  to  fifteen  to  the  ju- 
venile, 

The  Sauquoit  Creek  abounds  with  water  power.  It  rises 
on  the  high  lands  in  Paiis,  and  runs  eighteen  miles  north- 
west, and  is  bordered  by  rich  lands.  York-vilU,  three  au  da  half 
miles  from  Utica,  has  three  large  cotton  factories,  one  machine 
shop,  three  stores,  one  tavern,  a  Presbyterian  and  a  Method- 
ist church,  and  orie  hun<lre<l  dwellings. 

Two  and  three-quarter  miles  onward,  we  arrive  at  Oris- 
kany  Creek  and  village,  having  an  Episcopal  and  a  Presbyte- 
rian church,  two  woollen  factories,  (the  Oriskany  and  the  Dex- 
ter,) a  grist  and  a  saw  mill,  three  taverns,  six  stores,  and 
sixty  dwellings. 


( I 


100     Rome— Verona  Centre— Oneida  Sulphur  Springs. 


fi 


Eight  miles  we  arrive  opposite  Rome^  another  of  the  half- 
shire  towns  seen  at  a  distance  to  the  north,  together  with  the 
United  States  Arsenal  on  the  old  canal. 

Rome  occupies  the  site  of  Fort  Stanwix,  that  cost  in  1758 
two  hundred  and  sixty-six  thousand  four  hundred  dollars,  and 
is  on  the  summit  level  between  the  ocean  and  Lake  Ontario, 
(four  hundred  and  thirty -five  feel  above  tide  at  Albany,')  having 
the  Mohawk  River  on  the  east  and  Wood  Creek  on  the  west, 
near  the  Erie  Canal,  from  which  a  branch  extends  through 
the  village,  two  miles  to  the  Mohawk,  being*  part  of  the  work 
of  the  old  Western  Navigation  Company,  of  1796.  Rome  has 
two  Presbyterian,  one  Episcopal,  one  Methodist,  and  one 
Baptist  church,  an  academy,  and  several  select  schools,  a  brick 
court  house,  a  prison,  the  United  States  Arsenal,  of  slone,  and 
l[  I  ^  wooden  barracks  going  to  decay,  a  cotton  and  a  woollen  fac- 

tory, a  bank,  capital  one  hundred  thousand  dollars,  flouring 
and  saw  mills,  and  three  hundred  and  fifty  dwellings,  and  five 
thousand  inhabitants,  and  is  a  thriving,  prosperous  village. 
Hawley^s  Basin,  three  miles  west  from  Rome,  on  the  Erie 
Canal,  has  six  houi^es. 

Verona  Centre,  on  the  Erie  Canal,  is  nine  miles  from  Rome, 
and  (wo  south  of  W^ood  Creek,  has  a  warehouse,  store,  tavern, 
and  six  dwellings.  New  London,  also  on  the  canal,  seven 
miles  from  Rome,  has  two  taverns,  four  stores  and  forty 
/  dwellings,  and  is  the  dep6t  for  lumber  from  Salmon  River 
and  Fish  Creeks.  Andover  has  a  store,  tavern,  and  twelve 
dwellings. 

The  Oneida  Sulphur  Springs,  half  a  mile  south-west  from 
the  village,  with  its  spacious  hotel,  is  a  fashionable  resort  in 
summer.  The  glass  factory  in  Verona  has  made  twenty  thou- 
sand dollars'  worth  annually.  Three  miles  beyond,  we  cross 
the  Oneida  Creek  and  valley  by  an  aqueduct  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty  feet,  and  embankments ;  together  four  hundred 
feet  long,  and  from  twenty  to  twenty-six  feet  high.  The  creek 
enters  the  Oneida  Lake  at  the  south-east  corner,  and  is  the 
dividing  line  between  this  and  Madison  county,  that  we  now 
enter  upon.  Three  miles  from  the  Oneida  Creek,  we  pass 
Lenox  furnace,  and  basin,  and  landing,  and  in  two  miles 
further,  are  at  Canastota  Village,  creek  and  basin,  thirty-six 
miles  from  Utica,  and  fourteen  from  Morrisville,  the  county 
seat  to  the  south-east.  It  has  a  Methodist,  Presbyterian, 
Episcopal,  and  a  Baptist  church,  one  hundred  and  twenty 
dwelling  houses,  a  high  school,  several  forwarding  merchauts, 


Manlim  Jjinding—Siyracuse  AcactemfH 


10. 


groceries,  four  stores,  four  taverna,  and  is  a  lively  business 
piftce.  A  small  villaffe  is  posted  in  four  miles,  and  in  fonf 
miles  farther,  we  arrive  at  Chiftenirigo  Creek,  aqueduct,  ba- 
sin, and  feeder,  with  a  side  cut  of  one  and  a  half  miles  to 
the  villaee  of  that  name,  four  locks,  of  six  feet  rise  each.  The 
village  of  Chittpnin^o  has  one  hundred  and  fifty  dwelling 
houses,  three  churchea,  a  Dutch,  Presl>yterian,  and  Metho- 
diist,  a  Woollen  factory,  that  uses  anniiHlly  one  hundred  thou* 
snnd  pounds  of  wool,  made  into  broadcloths  and  cassimeres. 
There  are  also  flouring,  gypsum,  water  lime,  and  saw  mills, 
a  furnsice,  trip  hammer,  &c.  In  the  hills  near  the  canal  in 
this  vicinity,  is  an  abundance  of  limestone,  water  or  hy- 
draulic cement,  lime,  and  gypsum.  Iron  ore  is  said  to  be  in 
the  bogs.     (See  nlso  p.  58,  and  for  Ca^enovia  and  Lake.) 

Eiijht  miles  more  we  are  in  Onondaga  County,  at  Manlius 
Landing.  The  village  of  that  name,  being  fnur  miles  to  the 
south  on  Limestone  Creek,  has  one  hundred  and  fiffy  dwell- 
ings, a  cotton  factory,  several  grist  and  sa'v  mills,  six  stores. 
Fat/etteville,  on  the  north  branch  of  the  Seneca  turnpike,  and 
by  the  feeder  of  the  Erie  Canal,  eip,ht  miles  from  Syracuse, 
has  three  churches,  seventy-five  dwellings,  six  stores,  four 
taverns,  and  two  mills.  KlrkviUe  is  a  thriving  village  on  the 
canal.  Three  miles  beyond  the  last  landing  is  a  side  cut  to 
Orville,  and  from  this  is  five  and  a  quarter  miles  to  Lodi,  be- 
ing at  the  west  em  terminnf.ion  of  the  long  level  that  began  at 
Frankfort,  in  Htrkimer  County. 

The  Sf/racme  Academy,  a  splendid  brick  edifice  four  sto- 
ries high,  with  an  observatory,  occupies  the  most  prominent 
place  on  the  left  foreground  as  we  wind  around  the  last  hill/ 
and  come  suddenly  in  sight  of  this  fine  city,  with  the  canal 
here  beginning  to  be  enlarged  on  the  new  plan  of  eighty  feet 
wide,  and  eight  or  ten  deep,  new  lock?,  he.  The  academy 
has  spacious  ornamental  groimds  and  garden  attached,  with 
terraces  in  front,  facing  wef^^t  towards  the  city,  that  has  an 
imposing  appearance  as  we  draw  near  to  its  lofty,  spacious 
Warehouses,  and  ranges  of  brick  edifices,  and  neat  suhurhan 
private  dwellings.  There  are  seven  himdred  houses,  and  four 
thousand  five  hundred  inhabitants;  and  the  Sijracvse  House,  of 
brick,  four  stories,  fronting  en  Water  and  Salina-streels,  is  one 
of  the  best  hotels  in  the  State,  and  is  thronged  with  company  ; 
the  Onondaga  County  bank  is  in  the  adjoining  building,  and 
also  the  post  office. 

The  intelligent  stranger  thai  arri"es  at  Syracuse,  and  does 

9* 


« • 


l '', 


tot 


Salt  Springs, 


not  inconsiderately  neglect  to  loolc  about  him,  but  spends  a  day 
or  two  in  an  active  examination  of  the  localities  in  this  city 
and  its  vicinity,  will  derive  much  gratification  from  seeing  the 
springs  of  salt  water  that  rise  in  great  volumes  on  the  imme- 
diate bank  of  the  Onondaga  (a  fresh  water)  Lake,  and  in  tra- 
cing the  modes  and  means  used  in  boiling  or  evaporating  this 
strong  brine,  that  in  forty-five  to  fifty-five  gallons  produces 
a  bushel  of  pure  salt,  while  the  sea  water  on  our  coa^t  takes 
three  hundred  and  sixty  gallons  to  make  seventy-five  pounds 
of  salt!  Ira  1835,  the  quantity  of  salt  hero  made  was  two 
million  two  hundred  and  twenty-two  thousand  six  hundred 
and  ninety-four  bushels;  duty,  six  cents  a  bushel,  amount 
one  hundred  and  eighteen  thousand  three  hundred  and  sixty- 
four  dollars.  In  1833,  when  the  duty  was  twelve  and  a  half 
cents,  and  only  one  million  eight  hundred  and  thirty-eight 
thousand  six  hundred  and  forty-six  bushels  were  made,  the 
duty  was  two  hundred  and  twenty-seven  thousand  eight  hun- 
dred and  sixty  dollars.  The  principal  springs  are  at  Salina 
and  Geddes.  At  Salina  the  well  is  twenty-two  feet  deep,  and 
ten  in  diameter,  and  supplies  the  works  at  Salina,  Liverpool, 
and  Syracuse. 

Salt  springs  are  found  for  an  extent  of  a  hundred  and  eighty 
miles  from  Vernon,  Oneida  County,  to  the  Niagara  River,  but 
only  those  in  Onondaga  and  Cayuga  are  profitably  worked. 
The  whites  derived  their  knowledge  of  the  salt  springs  from 
the  Indians,  and  by  lowering  an  iron  vessel  to  the  spring  on 
Mud  Creek,  then  submerged  by  fresh  water  a  few  feet,  the 
salt  water  was  obtained,  and  the  same  process  was  used  to 
supply  the  first  settlers  until  other  springs  were  discovered. 
There  is  a  difference  in  the  supply  by  its  diminishing  in 
drought«  but  with  improved  machinery  for  pumping,  a  more 
rapid  influx  of  brine  has  been  produced,  with  an  increase  of 
strength  from  twenty  to  twenty-five  per  cent,  standing  at  thir- 
teen degrees  on  the  hydrometer  of  Beaume,  of  which  the 
point  of  saturation  is  iwenty-two  degrees. 

Large  quantities  of  this  salt  is  sent  to  Canada  by  the  Os- 
wego Canal,  and  to  the  western  states.  In  boring  for  rock 
salt  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  deep  here,  no  fossil  salt  or  sal- 
iferous  rock  was  passed,  but  cemented  gravel,  and  the  brine 
increased  in  strength  as  the  depth  continued. 

The  salt  mines  in  Poland  are  worked  at  the  depth  of  seven 
hundred  and  fifty  feet,  and  those  of  Eperies  at  nine  hundred 
and  ninety  feet,  and  here,  also,  no  doubt,  beds  of  it  will  eventu- 


Onondaga, 


103 


ally  be  penetrated,  and  ten  timed  the  quantity  sold,  to  what 
is  now  slowly  made  by  boiling  and  solar  evaporation.  Three 
millions  of  bushels  of  salt  can  be  made  here  yearly  by  an 
adequate  supply  of  brine.  During^  1834,  a  largo  reservoir  of 
the  brine  was  constructed  between  Liverpool  and  Sallna,  on 
the  high  ground,  for  factories.  Geddes  Is  at  the  head  of  the 
lake,  and  on  its  west  bank,  two  miles  from  Syracuse,  and  has 
fifty  dwellings,  two  stores,  &c.  From  the  heights  near,  are 
fine  views  of  the  lake  in  front,  and  of  cities  around  the  lake 
and  on  the  canal.  Liverpool  is  four  and  a  half  miles  north  of 
Syracuse,  has  sixty  dwellings,  stores,  taverns,  &c.  on  the  bor- 
ders of  the  lake  and  Oswego  Canal. 

By  taking  a  ride  by  the  rail-road  five  miles  up  the  hill  to 
the  quarrieSy  where  a  thousand  men  are  seen  at  work  raising 
stone  from  the  surface,  and  in  hewing,  shaping,  modelling, 
kc.  for  the  new  locks  that  are  to  be  made  on  the  Erie  Canal, 
and  in  entering  the  cave  or  chasm  that  is  here  found,  and  in 
enjoying  the  extensive  prospect  from  the  summit,  we  can 
promise  the  explorer  and  geologist  a  rich  treat.  The  lime- 
stone is  excellent  for  building,  and  is  used  for  the  masonry  on 
the  canal,  and  is  easily  sent  to  Oswego,  Rochester,  Buffalo,  Sic. 
in  blocks  of  any  size,  by  the  canal,  cranes  being  used  for  lift- 
ing on  and  off  the  boats. 

The  rail-road  hence  to  Utica,  sixty  miles,  was  finished  in 
183S-9,  and  cost  only  $600,000 ;  the  road  was  rapidly  formed 
by  Cram's  pile-driving  machine,  and  follows  the  invariable 
level  and  low  grounds.  The  facility  to  travelers  in  con- 
tinuing the  rail-road  west  of  Utica  is  very  great,  and  from 
this  it  goes  to  Auburn,  twenty-five  miles. 

The  valley  that  contains  Syracuse  and  the  Onondaga  Lake, 
is  within  nineteen  feet  as  low  as  the  Cayuga  Lake,  and  is  a 
longitudinal  valley,  extending  north  and  south  between  the 
Onondaga  hills,  and  has  always  been  a  remarkable  place,  and 
was  selected  by  the  sagacity  of  the  aborigines,  as  the  richest 
land  and  the  most  central  abode  for  the  maintenance  and 
diffusion  of  their  power,  and  here  for  a  long  time  Ihcy  held 
their  secret  council  fires,  and  the  six  confederated  Indian  bo- 
dies, the  Mohawks,  Onondagas,  Senecas,  Oneidas,  Cayugai, 
Tuscaroras,  became  the  terror,  not  only  of  the  weaker  tribes 
of  nat'.ves,  but  also  of  the  white  man. 

The  name  of  Onondaga  is  a  pure  Indian  word,  and  means 
a  swamp  at  the  foot  of  a  hill,  or  a  place  between  two  hills. 
Sacandaga,  is  swamp  or  marsh.    These,  like  all  their  names, 


1? ' 


t04 


Syrncunc. 


m'ORonorouw.dosrriplivo,  nndstricllyrlinrnrtpriatic,  nnd  should 

!)»•  prpscrvod  with  rrligionn  rnrr  nnd  vpiiornlioM.    Tho  French 

gBvo  thp«o  tril)ps  thji  nam''  of  frot/vds.    Tli(»v  worp  ncvrr  pnh- 

diipd  until  tho  fxpi'diiion,  (hiiin^  the  rpvniiilionnrv  wur,  finder 

thft  command  of  CiCMiprnl  SnlllvHM,  wlion  thoy  wprr  crnchrd, 

.    ftnd  the  hnnnhty  «nirit  of  the  confi'drrntPM  tfioronghly  pub- 

f  dupd,   nnd  thn  frihps  prnltprpd.     A    small  rrninnnt  of  thpm 

'ilill  linpnr  in  this  viiIIpv,  nnd  arp  rpliictnnl  to  qnii  thn  ahodeii 

of  thpir  anrpslorp,  but  thpy  are  fast  fading  under  the  influ- 

cnpp  of  inlpmppranco  and  iillpupas. 

The  site  of  thp  prpsptjt  rify  of  Syrnrnse  has  bppn  clpnrpd 
but  a  vpry  f«'W  years  siiirp  the  Krip  Canal  vvn?  laid  out,  but  it 
hn«  within  ten  ypnrs  rispp  with  giant  stridea  from  an  ineon- 
Pidprnhlp  hnmlpt  to  its  prpst>nt  importance,  at  the  exppnpe  of 
itg  auff«'rinp  neighbors.  Snbna  and  liie  Ononcbipas  ;  but  this  is 
only  temporary,  as  n  few  years  of  prospprity  ia  dpatined  to 
fill  this  cpntral  saline  valley  even  to  overflowing  with  popu- 
lation nnd  wealth. 

'Throush  the  centre  of  this  county  farms  spII  at  from  twen- 
ty five  to  forty  and  sixty  dollars  an  acre,  tmder  uooi\  cultiva- 
tion. Wheat  pelves  twenty,  nnd  maixo  thirty  bushels  the  acre, 
nided  by  «7ypsum.  Pine  and  hemlock,  with  deciduous  trees, 
dens'ely  covered  the  northern  part  of  the  county;  in  the  cen- 
tre and  south,  beech,  majilp,  nnd  bass  wood.  'J'ho  stumps 
(hat  rpnittin  attest  the  dpptli  and  exuberance  of  the  roit.  For 
gardens,  notbinir  can  be  better  than  the  rich  vegetable  matter 
that  is  here  fotmd. 

The  red  snlifermm  sand-stone  underTaya  tlie  marsh  nnd 
8wam()s,  plain  nnd  Inke,  and  forms  n  brim  nround  tho  Inst. 
The  sbonl  waters  nnd  marsh  rest  on  this  margin,  while  the 
deep  waters  are  within  It,  to  the  depth  of  sixty  or  seventy 
feet.  The  Inke  has  been  lowered  two  fi^et,  the  mnrahes 
drained,  nnd  this  placo  rendered  much  healthier  in  conse- 
quence. 

Saliun,  one  nnd  a  balf  miles  north  of  Syracuse,  is  on  a  plain 
near  the  centre  of  the  marsh,  with  Onondaga  Creek  near  it, 
nnd  liere  are  seventy-seven  of  tho  salt  manufactories,  aT)d  the 
head  salt  spring  that  supplies  the  works  here,  nnd  Liverpool, 
«nd  Syracuse,  the  water  beine:  conveyed  in  subterranean  logs. 
The  brine  is  forced  to  the  top  of  a  reservoir  eighty-five  feet 
liigh,  by  pumps  driven  by  the  surplus  water  of  the  Oaweoro 
I  Canal,  at  the  rate  of  three  hundred  gallons  per  minute  for 
distribution.   Solar  evaporation  produces  the  coarse  srdt,  and 


SyrneuK — Onondaga  Creek, 


106 


Vtoilinf  tho  fine.  Four  hundred  cords  of  wood  per  day  are 
}iere  ii^ed  for  this  purpone.  In  tho  cvapuratin^  process,  a  low 
roof  (hat  is  movable  kg  as  to  shove  o%  to  admit  the  rays  of  the 
flun,  or  to  cover  the  vat  during  rain,  admits  of  the  deposition  in 
a  iiivf  days  ol'  the  crystals  thnt  form,  and  are  removed  when 
matured. 

There  are  one  hundred  and  thirty-three  salt  manufacturers, 
three  thousand  four  hundred  nnd  twenty-three  kettles  and 
pans  of  tho  capacity  of  three  hundred  and  thirty-nino  thou- 
sand seven  hundred  and  seventy-Ave  gallons,  and  over  a  mil- 
lion and  a  half  of  superficial  feet  of  vals  for  solar  evapora- 
tion. 

Onondaga  Hollow^  and  Onondaga  West  Hill  are  separately 
referred  to  on  tho  stage  route.     (See  p.  59,  and  index.) 

The  county  court-house  and  public  buildings,  clerk's  office, 
&c.  are  at  Syracuse,  it  being  a  village  incorporation,  is  on 
both  sides  of  the  Erie  Canal,  with  every  thing  well  arranged 
for  husinesR,  concentration,  and  comfort ;  has  an  Episcopal, 
a  Presbyterian,  a  Methodist,  and  a  Baptist  church,  sixteen 
lawyers,  el«ven  physicians,  sixteen  general  stores,  twenty- 
two  grocery  and  provision  stores,  four  drug,  two  hard-ware, 
four  clothing,  and  five  shoe  stores,  three  turnnces  and  ma- 
chine shops,  two  flouring  and  one  lumber  mills,  one  planing 
machine,  three  tin  and  copper,  two  leather,  one  morocco,  two 
carriage,  three  cabinet,  three  marble,  one  soap  and  candle 
manufactories,  one  of  steam-OMgines  and  castings,  one 
brewery,  one  distillery,  two  tanneries,  one  boat-yard  and  dry 
dock,  two  fire  engine  and  one  hook  and  ladder  companies. 
The  Onondaga  Salt  Company,  and  the  Syracuse  Salt  Com- 
pany, each  with  a  capital  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
dollars  for  making  coarse  salt,  fifteen  salt  blocks  or  nests  of 
kettles  for  making  salt  by  fire. 

The  Onondaga  Creek  rises  in  Tully,  twenty-eight  miles  south, 
giving  good  water  power,  runs  through  the  village,  over 
which  the  canal  is  carried  in  a  stone  aqueduct  of  four  arches, 
each  of  thirty  feet  span. 

For  Oswego  Canal,  see  index.  A  small  packet-boat  plies 
to  Salina  every  hour,  fare  twelve  and  a  half  cents.  Many 
strangers  here  prefer  to  leave  the  Erie  Canal  and  go  to 
Oswego,  and  thence  by  steam-boat  on  Lake  Ontario  to  Ni- 
agara, by  way  of  variety.  There  are  two  receiving  or  turn- 
ing basins  in  Syracuse  and  Salina,  for  the  accommodation  of 
(he  salt  and  other  boats. 


106      BellisU—Niiie  Mile  CreeJt-^ Amber— Cross  Lake. 


Soon  after  quitting  Syracuse  is  a  lock  of  six  feet  fall,  and  in 
fc  mile  and  a  quarter,  another  of  six  feet  rise,  and  in  half  a  mile 
we  pass  through  Geddes,  as  before  mentioned,  winding  along 
in  sight  of  the  small  Onondaga  Lake,  six  miles  in  extent  and 
one  broad. 

BellisUy  on  the  canal,  is  a  small  hamlet  of  fifteen  dvveilings, 
six  miles  from  Syracuse,  and  Amboy  is  on  the  Nine  Mile 
Creek,  or  outlet  oi  the  Oiisco  Lake,  seven  miles  from  Syra- 
cuse, and  has  twenty  dwellings,  a  mill,  &c.  Camitlus,  also 
on  the  same  creek,  has  fifty  dwellings,  four  stores,  three  tav- 
erns, a  grist,  saw,  carding,  and  cloth  dressing  mill.  Near  the 
village  is  a  quarry  of  gypsum,  the  first  treasure  of  that  kind 
found  and  used  in  this  State  by  Canvass  White,  E«q.  engineer 
on  the  Erie  Canal,  the  son  of  Judge  White,  of  Whitestown. 
A  feeder  one  and  a  half  miles  long  is  here  formed  to  con- 
nect with  the  Erie  Canal. 

At  the  Oiisco,  or  Nine  Mile  Creek,  six  miles  from  Geddes, 
is  an  aqueduct  and  lock  of  eleven  feet  rise,  and  six  miles  be- 
yond is  Canton  village,  fifteen  miles  from  Syracuse,  and  has 
fifteen  dwellings,  three  stores,  and  two  taverns.  Canton  is  the 
half  way  village  between  Albany  and  Buffalo,  one  hundred 
and  eighty-three  miles  each  way,  and  seventy-five  from  Uti- 
ca.  The  Otisco  Lake  is  four  miles  long  and  half  a  mile  wide, 
and  sends  forth  a  powerful  stream,  the  Nine  Mile  Creek. 

Amber  is  near  the  !al<e,  has  a  Methodist  church  and 
twelve  dwellings.  Oiisco  Centre  has  a  Presbyterian  church, 
fifteen  dwellings,  two  stores. 

At  Peru  are  a  few  scattered  dwellings,  a  store,  &c.  on  the 
canal,  and  at  Jordan,  six  miles  beyond,  is  a  lock  of  eleven 
feet  fall,  and  au  aqueduct  over  the  Skaneateles  Creek  of 
three  arches,  one  hundred  feel  long.  Here  are  one  liundred 
arTd  fifty  dwellings,  a  Methodist  and  Presbyterian  church, 
three  grist  and  three  saw  mills,  sash  and  pail  factory,  clothing 
M'orks,  distillery,  twelve  grocery  and  other  stores,  two  drug, 
one  tannery. 

Cross  Lake,  is  a  basin  or  reservoir,  five  miles  long  and  tw(» 
wide,  through  which  the  Seneca  River  paases,  in  a  low 
Bwnmpy  district,  whose  surface  is  three  hundred  and  seventy 
feet  above  tide.     It  is  a  mile  or  two  north  of  the  canal. 

For  Skaueateles  village  and  lake,  s(>e  stage  road,  p.  60.  At 
Klbridge,  three  miles  south,  are  Indian  remains  on  a  hill,  of 
three  acres  in  extent,  with  a  ditch  and  wall  of  earth.  Ifere 
are  sixty  dwellings,  three  mills,  three  taverns,  three  stores. 


wxa 


Weedsport — Port  Byron— Montezuma. 


107 


The  next  six  miles  introduces  us  to  Weed's  Basin  or  Weeds- 
port,  seven  miles  north  of  Auburn,  eighty-seven  from  Ulica, 
and  twenty  six  from  Syracuse;  has  one  hundred  and  twenty 
■dwellings,  three  forwarding  houses,  a  Presbyterian  and  a  Me- 
thodist church,  ei^ht  stores,  three  taverns,  one  furnace,  one 
saw  mill.  This  is  a  sort  of  port,  and  landing,  and  embarkation 
for  Aiibarn^  and  all  that  part  of  Cayuga  County.  Stages 
are  in  waiting  to  take  passengers.  (For  Auburn,  see  stage 
road,  p.  61.)  Cenireport  has  twenty  dwellings  and  a  gro- 
cery, a  short  distance  beyond  the  preceding  place. 

Port  Byron,  three  miles  west  of  Weedsport,  on  the  Erie 
Canal,  has  one  hundred  and  forty  dwellings,  one  Baptist 
Church,  five  stores,  two  taverns,  two  grist,  four  Baw,  and  an 
extensive  merchant's  mill,  one  distillery,  one  tannery,  one 
carding  and  cloth-dressing  mill.  Here  is  a  lock  of  nine  feet 
fall,  and  an  aqueduct  over  the  Owasco  Creek,  of  stone,  of 
four  arches  of  twenty  feet  each.  Here  are  dry  docks,  and 
large  boat-houses,  for  building  an4  repairing  ;  and  in  four  and 
a  half  miles  we  pass  through  a  lock  of  nine  f«et  fall,  and  in 
one  and  a  half  miles  are  at  another  of  seven  feet  fall,  on  the 
level  of  Seneca  River.  At  Montezuma  or  Lakeport,  there  are 
forty  dwellings,  several  groceries,  a  collector's  office  for  ca- 
nal tolls,  three  taverns,  one  store.  About  one  mile  west  of 
the  village  are  the  Cayuga  or  Montezuma  marshes.  The 
canal-boats  for  passengers  time  .heir  arrivals  and  departure 
to  meet  the  lake  steam-boat  to  and  from  Ithaca  at  the  head 
of  the  lake  thirty-six  miles  south.  The  width  of  the  lake  is 
four  miles,  and  its  area  eighty  square  miles.  A  ferry-boat 
plies  across  at  Genoa,  King's  ferry.  The  shores  of  this  lake 
are  beautifully  disposed  to  jdease  the  eye  in  going  on  its 
surface,  or  traveling  on  its  borders.    (See  page  62.) 

The  salt  works  at  Montezuma,  before  alluded  to,  are  near 
by,  but  are  not  very  productive  or  profilabi^e.  It  is  seven 
mile"!  from  this,  south,  to  the  Cayuga  bridge.  The  rail-road 
from  Auburn  to  Rochester  is  in  course  of  construction,  and 
will  soon  complete  the  line  from  Albany  to  Buffalo. 

From  Montezuma  we  cross  the  Cayuga  outlet  by  a  tow- 
path  bridge,  and  over  the  marshes,  and  then  strike  in  by  the 
valley  of  Clyde  River,  in  a  north-west  direction  for  five  miles, 
when  we  are  in  fVayne  County,  in  the  township  of  Galen,  and 
at  a  lock  of  nine  feet  rise.  VVe  continue  on  for  five  miles  in 
the  same  direction  till  we  arrive  at  Cli/de  Village,  and  a  lock 
of  five    feet    rise.     Here   are  one   hundred   neat-looking 


Ji'  I 


lOS 


Lyons-^Allowai/. 


dwellings,  a  Presbyterian,  a  Methodist,  and  a  Baptist  churcl^^ 
many  stores  and  forwarding  houses,  a  cylinder  window-glas^ 
factory,  two  grist,  two  saw,  and  one  cloth-dressing  mill,  e 
tannery,  and  a  school,  and  three  taverns.  This  is  eight 
miles  east  of  Lyons.  Lock  Berlin^  on  the  canal,  has  a  lock 
of  seven  feet  rise,  ten  dwellings,  store,  tavern,  and  smithy^ 
and  a  Quaker  meeting.  Thence  four  and  a  half  miles 
brings  us  to  Lyons,  the  capital  of  Wayne  County,  and 
to  a  lock  of  six  feet  rise,  and  to  a  change  from  the  north 
bank  of  the  Clyde,  by  a  considerable  detour  round  the  base 
of  a  hill,  passing  the  outlet  of  the  Canandaigua  Lake^  thai 
here  comes  in  from  the  south,  and  uniting  with  Mud  Creek, 
forms  the  Clyde  River  for  forty-three  miles,  to  the  union  with 
the  Cayuga  outlet  at  the  marshes.  At  the  confluence  of  Mud 
Creek  and  the  Canandaigua  outlet,  and  on  the  north  bank ,  L  v^ 
ons  is  situated,  and  has  two  hundred  and  fifty  dwelling';" ;  :,  - 
ny  of  them  and  of  the  stores  are  of  brick,  spacious,  r  ;  . 
fast  increasing.  It  is  situated  on  a  plain  bounded  north  and 
east  by  limestone  ridges  of  gradual  ascent,  that  gives  a  fine 
panoramic  view  of  the  village,  the  vale  to  the  south-east,  and 
of  the  confluent  streams^  Here  is  a  Presbyterian,  a  German 
Lutheran,  and  a  Methodist  church,  a  brick  court-house  and 
jail  on  a  public  square,  a  bank,  capital  $200,000,  twenty  stores^ 
five  taverns,  two  printing-offices,  a  furnace,  one  fiouring^  one 
grist,  one  saw  mill,  one  carding  and  cloth  dressing  mill. 

The  canal  of  half  a  mile  from  the  Canandaigua  outlet  on 
the  south  side  of  the  river,  gives  a  fall  of  nine  feet  and  a  large 
volume  of  water  jthe  greater  portion  is  yet  unemployed.  A 
bridge  is  made  to  cross  at  this  point. 

tSllowayi  three  mriles  south  of  Lyons^  on  the  Canandaigua 
outlet;  has  two  fiouring,  two  saw,  two  carding  and  cIoth-dress-< 
ing  mills;  two  distilleries,  one  store,  two  taverns,  one  Baptist 
church,  thirty  dwellings.    It  has  a  good  water  power. 

The  Erie  Canal  now  crosses  by  an  aqueduct  and  a  lock  of 
ten  feet  rise,  over  to  the  south  bank  of  Mud  Creek,  and  in 
four  and  a  half  miles  are  four  locks,  of  eight  feet  rise  each,  and 
in  one  fourth  of  a  mile,  Miller's  Basin. 

£leven  miles  more  brings  us  again  alongside  of  the  Muu 
Creek  at  Palmyra,  a  town,  or  village,  of  250  dwellings, 
three  large  canal  basins,  a  Presbyterian,  Episcopal,  Methodist 
and  Baptist  church,  an  academy,  a  brewery,  two  tanneries 
twelve  general  stores,  several  groceries  and  druggists,  a  grii^t 
and  saw  mill,  aprinting-ofiice — thirteen  miles  from  Canandai* 


FullarrCt  Basin — Great  Embankment— Rochester.     109 


•**^% 
^ 


gua,  twenty-nine  from  Rochester  by  canal,  twenty-two  by 
road. 

Ill  one  and  a  quarter  miles  from  Palmyra  the  canal  again 
crosses,  by  an  aq^ueduct,  to  the  north  side  of  Mud  Creek,  and 
in  two  and  a  halt  miles  a  lock  of  ten  feet  lift,  «nd  three  quar- 
ters of  a  mile  a  second  also  often  feet  lift,  in  Macedon.  Nina 
miles  more  bring  us  to  FaUam^s  Basin^  in  Perrinlony  Monroe 
County,  through  a  marshy  tract.  At  Fullam's,  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  ridge,  is  a  warehouse  and  tavern.  It  is  16 
miles  from  this  to  Rochester  by  canal,  and  only  eleven  by  land, 
and  stages  are  in  wailing  for  those  wishing  to  cut  across ;  but 
no  traveler  should  omit  seeing  once  at  least  the  great  embank' 
mtnt  over  Irondeqnoit  Creek,  that  in  four  miles  is  now  passed 
nolens  volens  in  two  miles  beyond  Harlwell's  Ba^in. 

This  stupendous  embankment  of  earth  is  72  feet  above 
Ihe  creek,  and  is  two  miles  long,  thus  carrying  tho  wondering 
4ind  astonished  passenger  in  mid  air,  far  above  the  meadows 
below,  that  may  l»e  viewed  as  a  map.  The  construction 
of  this  work  was  one  of  great  expense  to  the  State,  and  the 
cause  of  much  anxiety  to  the  engineers,  as  to  the  results. 

A  lock  of  ei^rht  feet  rise  is  passed,  and  then  in  two  miles  we 
arrive  at  Piltsford,  a  town  of  100  dwellings,  six  miles  south- 
'east  from  Rochester ;  haa  a  Presbyterian,  a  Baptist,  and  a 
Methodist  church,  a  saw  mill  on  the  canal  lock,  four  stores, 
three  warehouses,  one  tannery.  Oak  openings  begin  to  ap- 
pear in  this  and  in  Perrinton,  as  a  new  feature. 

Blossomville  has  a  post  office,  a  plaster  mill,  a  Presbyterian 
church,  a  store  and  tavern,  and  fifteen  houses. 

In  six  and  a  half  miles  we  meet,  at  a  chain  of  iive  locks  in 
Brighton,  a  rise  of  thirty-seven  feet  and  a  half,  and  ar*^  at  the 
beginning  of  the  second,  or  Genesee  Long  Level,  of  sixty-five 
tniles,  that  extends  westward  to  Lockpnrt,  in  Niagara  County. 
In  three  miles  we  cross  the  feeder  of  two  miles  long,  tUutt 
tomes  from  the  rapids,  and  are  in  tho  city  of.   ••    ■  '  >  ^ 


Rochester, 


the  capital  of  Monroe  County.  It  is  a  port  of  entry  for  the 
Lake  Ontario,  Genesee  district,  in  north  latitude  43° — has 
t2,5O0  dweilinfis,  many  of  tbt^e  nnd  four  stories  high,  of  brick, 

10 


ua 


Rochcsler^^  Great  Aqueduct. 


and  a  population  of  about  17,000,  embracing  all  the  nU' 
chanic  arts  and  professions.  The  residences  of  many  of 
the  inhabitants  indicate  wealth,  taste,  and  comfort,  having 
court  yards,  shrubberies  and  gardens  attached. 

The  settlement  dates  from  1812;  the  incorporation  from 
1S34.  There  are  five  wards,  a  court-house  and  jail  of  Jtone, 
six  large  hdtels,  fourteen  churches  (two  of  correct  and  attrac 
tire  architecture)  of  all  sects,  an  arcade  of  six  stori(  s,  con- 
taining the  post  office,  athcneum,  a  hotel,  and  various  other 
offices.  There  is  a  savings  bank,  and  three  banks  with  an  ag- 
gregate capital  of  $950,000,  seven  newspapers,  (two  daily,) 
three  bookstores  and  binderies,  and  a  host  of  merchants,  tra- 
ders, fo  -'Jirding  and  commission  houses,  grocers,  and  me- 
chanics Oi  v.inds.  The  streets  are  wide,  and  paved,  and 
drained.  1  i  bridges  connect  the  east  and  west  parts  of 
the  city,  besides  the  great  aqueduct^  eight  hundred  feet  long, 
on  eleven  arches. 

The  manufacture  of  flour  is  here  the  business  of  primary 
importance,  from  the  well  known  and  unequalled  Ikcilities 
yielded  by  the  falls  in  the  Genesee  River,  two  hundred  and 
seventy-one  feetf  from  this  to  the  lake,  that,  at  the  English 
valuation  of  water  power,  would  be  SOj"?  18,272.  This  power 
is  but  partially  employed  at  present;  there  are  24  flouring 
mills,  with  about  100  run  of  stones,  that  can  make  60  (to  100) 
barrels  each  per  day,  equal  to  5,280  a  day,  or  1,746,000  per 
year.    400,000  have  been  produced,  amount  $2,700,000. 

There  are  11  large  saw  mills,  nine  large  machine  shops, 
that  use  water  power  for  turning,  stone  cutting,  grinding  dye 
woods  and  bark,  grain  for  distilleries,  &r.  making  edge  tools 
and  carpets  ;  of  these  marts  of  labor  and  industry,  the  Globe 
is  the  most  extensive  and  curious,  a  cotton  and  three  woollen 
factories.  The  value  of  capital  invested  in  mills  and  ma- 
chinery is  about  $750,000,  and  that  required  for  conducting 
at  $2,000,000,  and  the  returns  at  three  millions  and  a  half; 
amount  of  merchandise  sold  annually,  over  two  millions.  Ex- 
ports by  the  lake,  near  a  million. 

The  situation  on  the  canal  and  river,  and  with  the  various 
rail-roads  branching  like  arteries  to  various  directions,  and 
pulsating  with  the  most  active  commerce,  and  alive  with  pas- 
sengers, and  the  canals  with  boats  and  merchandise,  im- 
presses one  with  a  vivid  belief  in  the  general  prosperity. 

The  Tonnawanta  rail-road  of  32  miles  to  Batavia,  is  de- 


1-^     ■. 


Genetee  Falls. 


scribed  at  p.  &(i.  A  short  rail-road  also  extends  to  Port  Gene- 
tee,  seren  miles,  and  to  Charlotte ;  and  anothei  one  from  Scotts- 
ville,  a  village  of  120  houses,  four  churcheii,  five  mills,  15  miles 
south  on  the  river,  up  the  valley  of  Allen's  Creek,  through 
Wheatland,  10  miles,  and  then  to  Caledonia,  and  will  be  even- 
tually to  Le  Roy,  and  west  to  Batavia,  for  the  benefit  of  the 
farmers  and  millers  )n  the  route,  and  to  connect  with  the  ca- 
nal from  Rochester  to  Olean,  on  the  Mleghany  River.  This 
canal  pursues  the  valley  of  the  Genesee  on  the  west  bank, 
keeping:  along  the  edge  of  the  low  grounds  near  the  base  of 
the  hills,  to  be  above  inundation,  but  avoiding  the  too  great 
sinuosities,  and  crossing  the  Genesee  by  an  aqueduct  at  Mount 
Morris  to  the  east  side,  from  whence  it  goes  south  to  Olean, 
on  the  Alleghany,  (a  branch  leading  off  to  the  south-east,  up 
the  valley  of  the  Canasoraga  Creek  to  Dansville,  and  to  Bath 
and  Painted  Post,  to  unite  with  the  Chemung  Canal  at  New- 
town.) The  Genesee  is  navigable  for  small  boats  53  miles  to 
Mount  Morris,  and  a  steam-boat  plies  to  Avon,  20  miles. 

The  lake  steam- boats  come  up  to  Carthage,  two  miles  north 
of  the  Erie  Canal,  near  the  falls  Here  are  60  dwellings,  and 
an  inclined  plane  from  the  landing-place  to  the  warehouse 
160  feet  above,  with  machinery,  the  steps  are  237  ;  the  rail- 
road from  the  city  eti'S  here.  The  bridge  of  one  arch  of  353 
feet  cord,  and  versed  sine  54  feet,  summit  196  feet  above  the 
water,  length  718,  width  30  feet,  was  put  up  in  1819,  and  fell 
down  in  1820,  with  a  crash,  after  a  heavy  loaded  wagon  and 
four  horses,  and  a  gig  had  just  crossed.    It  cost  $27,000. 

There  are  two  grand  falls  of  the  Genesee:  the  first,  about  , 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  the  aqueduct,  is  96  feet,  in  three 
distinct  sheets ;  and  below  this  the  river  is  broad  and  deep,.. 
with  occasional  rapida  for  a  mile  and  a  half  to  the  second  fall' 
of  20  feet,  thence  it  extends  for  400  feet  over  a  rough  bed,  and 
gathers  its  waters  for  the  last  and  final  leap  of  105  feet  per- 
pendicular ;  thence  are  rapids  to  the  head  of  sloop  navigation  ;l 
the  ravine  throughout,  from  the  upper  to  the  lower  fall,  be-,' 
ing  a  deep,  narrow,  rocky  gulf,  of  over  a  hundred  feet  deep  ; 
the  country  on  both  sides  being  even  to  the  lake  shore,  and 
in  going  from  east  to  west,  no  indication  is  given  of  an  ap- 
proach to  Ruch  a  deep  indentation  in  the  surface  of  the  earth 
until  we  are  close  upon  its  brink,  and  in  this  particular  it  con- 
forms to  the  features  of  the  Niagara  below  the  falls  to  Lewis- 
ton  and  Queenston. 

Steam-boats  that  ply  from  Niagara  along  the  south  shor* 


tl 

(J 

''ff 

1 

.\| 

1 

112 


Holley  Embankment — Sandy  Creek, 


III 


of  the  lake  to  Oswego,  and  SackeH's  Harbor,  and  Ogdens- 
burgh,  also  look  into  this  river,  and  land  and  receive  pnssen- 
gers.  1  ho  ridge  road  from  this  to  Lewiston  is  80  miles, 
parallel  with  the  lake  shore,  and  either  by  this  or  some  other 
mode,  (of  steam-boat  to  Niagara  River,  or  of  canal  to  Lock- 
port,  or  any  way  that  will  bring  the  traveler  in  such  a  direc- 
tion to  this  frontier,  as  that  he  may  catch  the  first  view  of  the 
cataract  in  going  up,  either  from  Lewisfon  or  Queenston,) 
the  traveler  should  approach  Niagaia  till  the  spectacle  sud- 
denly bursts  upon  him  in  all  its  panoramic  glory,  when  be- 
held in  front,  or  coming  from  the  north.  In  our  opinion  this 
is  preferable  to  making  the  approach  from  the  rear,  or  south, 
and  then  coming  round  to  the  front. 

There  arc  six  basins  or  stopping  places  at  short  distances 
between  Rochester  and  Brockport,  viz.  King's,  six  and  a  half 
miles;  Webber's,  two  and  a  half  beyond  ;  Kilborn's,  one  and  a 
half;  Spencer's,  one  and  a  half,  within  a  mile  or  two  of  Parma 
on  the  ridge  road;  then  Webster's,  one;  Bates',  two,  at  the 
embankment  over  Salmon  Creek;  Cooley'p,  two  and  a  half; 
Brockway  or  port,  two  and  a  half.  This  is  a  town  of  300  to  400 
houses,  many  of  ihem  of  three  and  four  stories  high,  of  bi  ick 
or  freestone,  seven  or  eight  commission  warehouses,  taverns, 
stores,  in  the  customary  abundance  and  variety  ;  one  Presbyte- 
rian, one  Baptist,  and  one  Methodist  church,  of  stone  and 
brick,  with  steeples,  also  an  Episcopal  congregation,  five 
schools,  a  laige  college  building  of  five  stories  high,  a  grist 
mill,  two  tanneries,  and  machine  factory.  This  is  a  large  wheat 
purchasing  mart. 

At  the  end  of  the  next  five  miles  occ^urs  the  Holley  cm- 
hankment  of  76  feet  Ijieh  nimve  the  creek,  before  entering  the 
villnge  that  contains  70  dwellings,  many  of  brick,  on  six 
streets,  a  Bup(i&.  and  a  Pre^b3  terinn  church,  three  mills,  a 
furnnce,  a  woollen  factory  for  making  flannels  and  cloths, 
besides  stores  and  taverns. 

Sandy  Creek,  at  the  junction  of  the  two  main  branches,  has 
four  mills,  four  stores,  three  taverns,  one  tannery,  and  25 
dwellings.  North  P/Iurray  has  a  Boptist  church,  two  stores,  a 
tavern,  and  10  dwellings.  Scio,  on  the  canal,  six  miles  east 
from  Albion,  has  a  Meihodift  rliiiich,  a  mill,  store,  a  tavern, 
and  20  dwcllinirs.  Sniith'8  Basin  is  six  and  a  half  miles  west 
of  Holley,  and  is  the  halfway  ba*in.  Gaines'  Bcisiii,  one  and 
a  half  miles  north  of  Albion,  has  12  dwellings,  a  warehouse, 
and  three  stores.     Gaines'  Village  has  50  dwellings,  three 


Otter  Creek— Albion. 


113 


miles  north-west  of  Albion,  two  chutches,  two  taverns,  four 
dry  goods,  one  tannery,  one  ashery. 

Fair  Haven,  two  and  a  half  miles  north  of  Albion,  haa  15 
dwellings,  a  store,  tavern,  and  Universalist  church. 

OUer  Creek  embankment  is  65  feet  high,  and  in  1|^  miles  ii 
another  long'  embankment  at  Clark's  Brook  of  15  feet  high, 
and  in  three  miles  is  the  Fish  Creek  embankment,  and  ai 
arched  road-way  under  the  canal.  The  village  of  Oak  Or 
CHARD  is  3^  miles  off  to  the  right,  on  the  ridge  road,  and  hai 
10  dwellings,  two  taverns,  a  store,  grist,  and  two  saw  mills. 

The  aqueduct  over  Oak  Orchard  Creek  has  an  arch  of  60 
feet  sp^n,  and  here  comes  in  a  feeder  of  half  a  mile  long.  Thfl 
Oak  Orchard  Creek  has  a  fall  near  the  canal  of  30  feet  near 
Medina.  The  Oak  Orchard  rises  on  the  table  land,  south  35 
miles,  and  runs  north  towards  Lake  Ontario,  and  joins  it  at 
Fish  Bay.  It  flows  through  the  great  Tonnawanta  swamp, 
that  is  25  miles  long  east  to  west,  and  two  to  seven  in  breadth, 
an  area  of  50,000  acres,  and  occupies  the  submerged  land 
south  of  the  highest  ridge  400  feet  above  Ontario.  In  rainy 
seasons  this  swamp  is  flooded  deep,  and  drains  but  slow.  An 
open  aqueduct  or  feeder  of  four  and  a  half  miles  is  cut 
through  marsh,  and  part  of  the  way  through  solid  rock,  by^ 
which  the  upper  waters  of  the  Tonnawanta,  that  would  other- 
wise be  absorbed  in  the  Niagara,  are  now  diverted  in  part  to 
the  north,  and  led  to  the  Oak  Orchard  Creek,  that  through  the 
marsh  was  sluggish,  and  before  this  tapping  of  the  Tonna- 
wanta, was  in  the  summer  of  no  importance ;  its  mass  has 
now  been  greatly  increased,  and  is  made  use  of  for  hydraulic 
purposes,  as  after  breaking  through  the  barrier  on  the  north 
it  is  rapid,  and  has  a  smooth,  rocky  bed,  and  in  leaping  over 
the  ridges,  forms  some  beautiful  cascades. 

Alhim,^  the  capital  of  Orleans  County,  has  grown  up  since 
1823,  is  on  the  canal  near  the  centre  of  the  county,  35  miles 
from  Rochester,  50  from  Buffalo,  28  from  Lockport,  18  from 
Butavia,  and  10  south  of  Lake  Ontario.  It  has  2*20  dwellings 
of  brick  and  wood ;  some  are  large  and  neat.  The  public 
square  is  decorated  by  a  court  house  of  brick  with  th^  county 
omees ;  a  Presbyterian  and  a  Methodist  church,  and  a  school 
for  females.  It  has  a  bank,  capital  $200,000,  13  dry  good», 
one  book,  one  hardware,  two  drug,  and  many  other  stores, 
also  tanners,  ashery,  grist,  saw,  and  cloth  and  carding  mill,  a 
furnace,  five  taverns,  various  mechanics,  nine  lawyers,  fiv« 
physicians,  two  newspapers. 

10* 


;i  * 


n 

114 


Medina— Barre  Centre— Middleport. 


s:; 


■■/ 


Medina  is  10  mifes  west  of  Albion,  and  hns  250  dwe11inj?fi, 
a  Presbyterian,  Baptist,  Methodist,  and  Episcopal  church,  10 
dry  goods,  a  brewery,  a  tanner,  a  carding  and  ch)th  dressing, 
a  shingle  factory,  three  taverns,  a  high  echoo),  and  seminary 
for  ladies,  a  newspaper,  he.  This  a  business-like  and  growing 
village.  Ea^le  Harbor^  three  miles  west  of  Albion,  has  15 
dwellingfl,  a  IVIethodist  church,  three  stores,  and  a  warehouse. 

'p  Barre  Centre,  three  miles,  and  South  Barre,  six  miles 
south  of  Albion,  have  25  (iwellings  each.  Knowleaville,  on 
the  canal,  six.  miles  west  of  Albion,  has  a  BMpiist  and  Pres- 
byterian church,  30  dwellings,  four  dry  goods,  one  drug  store, 
a  tanner,  an  ashery,  two  taverns.  Shelby's  Basin,  on  the 
canal,  13  miles  west  of  Albion,  has  a  Universalist  church,  a 
tavern,  tannery,  two  stores,  12  dwellings. 

\-'  Servos'  Basin  is  46  miles  from  Rochester,  and  in  one  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  is  the  embankment  over  the  middle  branch  of 
Oak  Orchard  Creek. 

JMiddleportf  near  the  east  line  of  Niagara  County,  12  mites 
from  Lockport,  has  40  dwellings,  three  warehouses,  four 
stores,  two  taverns,  one  Methodisi  church,  and  an  embank- 
ment  over  the  west  branch  of  Oak  Orchard  Creek.  Gasport, 
on  the  canal  six  miles  east  of  Lockport,  has  an  inflammable 
spring  which  rises  in  the  canal  basin  ;  it  has  a  few  dwelling?, 
tavern,  store,  and  a  warehouse.  One  and  a  half  miles  west  of 
Middleport  is  the  embankment  over  Johnson's  Cieek  26  feet 
high,  and  in  three  miles  onward  is  the  embankment  over 
Eighteen  Mile  Creek,  20  ft^et,  and  in  one  mile  is  a  basin. 
!  Eight  miles  from  a  basin,  Royalton,  brings  us  along  the 
fool  of  the  mouniain  ri<Igo  to  Lockport,  the  termination  of 
the  long  western  level  of  65  miles  from  this  to  Purrinton 
beyond  the  Genesee.  The  natural  ravine  that  here  forms  an  ob- 
long or  horse«shoe  amphitheatrical  basin  of  six  acres,  embo- 
soming and  sheltering  the  expansion,  i*  a  most  remarkable /ina/g' 
to  this  end  of  the  long  level;  and  if  this  ravine  had  been  made 
by  the  aid  and  ingeniouii  lahors  of  man,  by  blasting  and  hard 
knocks,  at  an  expense  of  millions,  that  in  such  an  event  it 
must  have  cost,  it  could  not  even  then  have  received  a  better 
shape  and  adaptation  to  its  purpose  t*9  the  mngnificent  ter- 
minus to  the  long  level,  and  the  still  more  stupendous  por- 
tal as  cut  through  the  rock  of  60  or  90  feet,  that  intro- 
duces us  to  tho  rocky  barrier  that  admits  us  to  the  npper  lakes. 
The  two  loni;  levels  on  the  canal,  and  the  Lockport  basin, 
the  Wat  Hoix  gap  on  the  Mohawk,  and  perhaps  other  places 


J 


■■ 


Lockport. 


US 


and  remarkable  features,  no  doubt  conduced  to  aid  the  in- 
genuity of  man  in  completing  this  Herculean  undertaking  of 
tr»cin<r  and  excavating  for  362  miles,  a  channel  to  unite  the 
wattfrs  of  the  lakes  and  the  ocean  by  the  deep  majestic  link 
of  the  Hudson  and  Mohawk. 


'I'  •  *;  / ;  * 


liOckport, 


y^+ii  v^    ;;.'•<**  ;J«i<R  .Xii'i'-'- 


;-•(' 


the  capital  of  Niagara  County,  is  founded  upon  the  summit 
and  the  base  of  the  terrace  or  rocky  ridge,  that  stretches 
from  Lewiston  heightn  on  the  Miagara,  eastward  towards  the 
Oneida  Lnke.  In  1821  its  site  wati  a  farm,  and  was  then  sur- 
veyed and  divided  into  city  lots,  and  the  incorporated  limits 
of  one  and  three  quarters  by  one  and  a  half  miles,  cover  an 
area  of  1,680  acres,  and  js  composed  of  an  upper  and  lower 
town  or  terrace.  There  are  600  houses,  and  0,000  inhabitants 
of  nil  grades,  and  the  usual  variety  of  professions,  trades,  and 
employments.  A  rail-road  of  20  miles  here  extends  to  Niagara 
Fails. 

Its  buildings,  both  public  and  private,  are  of  the  excellent 
stone  that  is  here  quarried  ;  such  is  the  court  hou^e  and  jail, 
and  some  of  the  nine  churches  or  meeting>houses.  There  is  an 
academy,  and  one  peminary  for  males, and  one  for  females,  and 
many  select  and  common  schoo]s,several  hotels  in  good  repute, 
a  bank,  capital  $100,000,  a  lyceum  for  literary  and  scientific 
purposes,  a  library,  two  bookstores,  and  numerous  dry  goods 
and  groceries. 

The  flouring  business  here  also  takes  precedence,  there 
being  tour  large  mills  with  24  run  of  stonrs  that  make 
annually  47,000  barrels  of  flour,  worth  $235,000.  The 
great  ahundnncc  of  water  derived  from  Lake  Erie,  that 
is  brought  through  the  deep  cut  to  the  brow  of  the  ridge,  and 
all  around  the  basin,  is  used  in  part  for  the  following  mills  and 
factories,  viz.  one  for  sawing  stone,  one  cotton  and  one 
woollen  factory,  two  double  gang  saw  mills,  five  single  saws, 
one  machine  shop,  two  furnaces  for  forging  and  working  iron, 
one  set  of  machinery  for  making  barrels,  one  window  sash 
factory,  one  carding  and  cloth  dressing  mill.  There  are 
four  wagon  makers,  and  one  coach  do.,  six  turning  lathes, 
two  chair  factories,  ten  smiths,  two  gun  smiths,  two  tin,  cop- 
per, and  sheet-iron  workers,  three  newspapers.  Ths  waste 
water  of  the  abc  /e  mills,  and  of  the  five  combined  or  double 


, 


i 


1 


Lockport. 

locks  of  the  sixty  feot  mountain  ridge,  after  it  has  fulfilled  its 
hydraulic  operations  in  it8  descent  to  the  basin,  is  there  re- 
tained by  a  dam  across  the  ravine,  and  forms  tlie  head  or 
fountain  to  All  the  long  or  sixty-five  mile  level,  and  as  such 
is  chiefly  rolied  on,  though  the  Oak  Orchard,  the  Genesee, 
and  other  feeders  are  useful  in  their  place. 

The  upper  village  is  about  80  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
basin  and  long  level  of  the  canal,  and  this  leads  to  many  pic- 
turesque and  pleasing  sites,  in  disposition  of  houses,  water,&c. 

In  moving  up  in  a  boat  to  the  head  of  the  basin  to  enter  the 
chain  of  double  locks  that  are  arranged  in  the  most  massive 
style,  side  by  side,  in  huge  chambers,  with  stone  steps  in  the 
centre,  guarded  by  iron  railings  on  both  sides  for  safety  and 
convenience,  the  gates  of  the  lock  are  closed  after  the  boat 
is  in  the  chamber,  and  the  roaring  and  sudden  influx  of  the 
water  from  the  lock  above,  in  three  or  four  minutes  raises 
the  boat  to  the  level  of  the  next  lock  above,  and  this  is  re- 
peated five  times,  the  adjoining  side  lock  being,  perhaps,  em- 
ployed in  letting  a  boat  pass  down  the  lock  to  the  basin  and 
canal. 

The  boat  having  in  this  manner  risen  up  60  feet  in  Ave 
lifts,  the  passenger  is  astonished  to  contemplate  before  him  a 
Tista  of  several  miles,  bounded  on  either  hand  by  walls  of 
the  solid  limestone  roek,  25  to  30  feet  high,  and  very  ap- 
propriately called  the  Deep  Rock  Cutting  at  Lockport^  and 
this  continues  for  several  miles  south,  but  gradually  dimin- 
ishes in  height  as  the  rock  dips  under  the  soil,  when  we 
emerge  at  Pendleton,  through  a  guard  lock  into  the  dark  wa- 
ters of  the  Tonnawanta  Creek,  that  by  means  of  a  dam  at  its 
mouth  of  four  and  a  half  feet,  that  backs  the  water  and  raises 
it  to  a  level  with  Lake  Erie,  is,  for  12  miles  from  this,  as  still 
and  sluggish  as  a  canal,  and  is  120  feet  wide  and  16  feet 
deep,  with  a  tow-path  on  its  south  bank,  and  in  this  12  miles 
is  only  a  descent  of  one  foot.  This  creek  is  the  boundary  of 
Niagara  and  Erie  Counties,  and  rises  in  the  south  part  of  Gene- 
see, and  has  a  course  of  north-north- west  and  west  for  more 
than  80  miles  to  the  Niagara  River,  opposite  Grand  Island  and 
the  new  village  of  Tonnawanta,  with  its  mills  and  20  houses, 
&c.  From  the  dam  here  are  outlet  locks  from  the  Erie  Canal 
to  the  Niagara  River.  The  East  Boston  Company,  proprie- 
tprs  of  Grand  Island,  are  interested  in  this  place,  and  also 
own  White  Haven,  on  Grand  Island,  where  they  have  60  fami- 
lies and  200  workmen,  a  steam  grist  mill  and  saw  mill  150 


■i:i:!iL,4CJLttii&''^,.  iV;i 


EUicoiVt  Creek— Black  Rock. 


117 


feet  squnre,  with  room  for  15  gangs  of  lawi,  a  building  used 
for  school  and  churcii,  a  wharf,  and  a  dock  for  floating  timber. 

Ellicott's  Creek  comes  into  the  Tonnawanla  just  above  the 
c!am. 

Turning  round  to  the  south  and  leaving  the  Tonnawanta 
behind,  we  advance  along  the  banks  of  the  clear  blue  Niagara 
(here  100  rods  in  width  over  to  Grand  Island)  on  the  one 
hnnd,  and  the  higher  hanks  of  the  Erie  Canal  on  the  east, 
passing  the  Long  Meadows  at  Two  Mile  Creek,  and  in  six 
miles  are  at  the  lower  end  of  Black  Rock  Harbor,  and  the 
sloop  lock  and  mills,  Skajocketa  Creek,  and  Squaw  Island, 
and  the  mole,  then  one  mile  to  Black  Rock,  one  to  the  upper 
end  of  the  mole  at  Bird  Island,  and  one  and  a  half  to  Bvffalo 
city,  the  queen  of  the  lakes. 

Black  Rock  has  350  dwellings,  is  three  miles  from  BuflTalo, 
and  is  opposite  to  the  village  of  Waterloo  and  Fort  Erie,  (in 
ruins  )  The  River  Niagara,  or  more  correctly  perhaps,  the 
St.  Lawrence,  is  here  near  one  mile  wide  and  26  feet  deep, 
and  has  a  current  of  six  miles  an  hour,  is  of  a  sea  green  color, 
and  has  a  ferry  to  the  Canadian  shore.  The  mole,  a  crib  18 
feet  wide,  filled  with  stone,  that  extends  from  Bird  Island 
north,  and  forms  the  harbor, (88  to  220  yards  broad,)  is  4,566 
yards  long,  nearly  parallel  lo  the  east  shore,  thus  ibrming  a 
nariow  bui  secure  refuge  inside  of  the  break- water,  of  an  area 
of  136  acres,  and  raisiing  the  water  at  the  lower  part  of  the 
dam  four  feet,  that  could  be  used  for  100  mills,  that  no  drought 
or  season  could  ever  aftect.  There  are  now  one  flouring  mill, 
one  grist  of  two  run,  two  saw,  u  stave,  and  cardmgand  fulling 
mill,  one  iron  foundery  and  steam  engine  factory,  a  distillery, 
and  grinding  mill,  and  at  Squaw  Island,  a  saw  and  shingle 
mill,  and  a  glass  factory. 


ti 


■  *i*  •  ♦  r- 1 


A  rail  road  of  three  miles  on  the  low  hank  at  the  harbor's 
side  leads  to  BulTalo,  and  the  rail  road  from  Cuflalo  to  the 
Falls  of  Niagara  is  on  the  upper  bank.  The  town  plat  em- 
braces 1,212  acres.  In  the  mania  for  speculating  in  1836,  an 
associution  purchased  the  property  of  P.  B.  Porter,  of  400 
acres  of  land,  house,  factories,  m  ater  power,  &c.  for  $30(>,000. 
The  State  of  New-Vork  formerly  owned  a  mile  in  width 
along  the  frontier,  from  Lake  Erie  to  Ontario,  that  was  not 
sold  to  the  Holland  Company. 

The  floor  of  the  lake  ut  the  water's  edge  on  the  Canadian 
shore,  nf'Mr  Fort  Erie,  where  the  waves  and  surf  act  uith  full 
effect,  and  where  the  indraught  towards  the  river  is  very 


mmm 


118 


Outlet  of  Lake  Erie. 


strong,  if  of  limestone,  extending  by  a  gradual  slope  into  the 
lake  towards  Buffalo.  The  desolating  efTccts  oi'  war  are  yet 
▼isible  on  the  walls  of  this  fortification ;  some  of  the  iron  pills 
are  still  to  be  seen,  deeply  fixed  in  the  thick  limestone  walls, 
that  are  blackened  with  smoke.  From  this  position  is  a  fine 
view  of  the  lake,  and  of  Buffalo,  Black  Rock,  and  of  the 
American  shore ;  and  in  proceeding  from  Black  Rock  by  the 
upper  town  towards  Buffalo,  is  a  still  more  extensive  view  of 
'y,  the  grandeur  of  the  lake,  and  of  its  iron-bound  shores  on  the 
south,  to  the  utmost  extent  of  vision. 

The  Erie  Canal  continues  on  from  the  Black  Rock  harbor 
114  chains  to  Little  Buffalo  Creek  in  the  heart  of  the  town, 
with  lateral  branches  through  the  lower  town. 

A  mole  and  pier  of  wood  and  stone  extends  1,500  feet  into 
the  lake  from  the  south  shore  of  the  creek,  and  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  pier  is  a  light  house  46  feet  high,  20  in  diameter 
at  base,  of  yellow  sandstone.  Vessels  of  eight  feet  draught 
can  enter  this  harbor,  a  mile  in  extent,  and  remain  secure.  A 
ship  canal  80  feet  wide  and  13  deep,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
creek,  extends  for  700  yards. 

;  The  approach  to  this  city  of  the  lake  is,  either  by  Ian'  or 
water,  quite  imposing,  as  its  domes,  turrets,  steeples,  ar  <; 
successive  streets  and  lake  craft,  are  developed  to  our  , 
and  when  it  is  considered  that  all  we  behold  here  has  arisen 
from  the  industry  and  the  labor  of  man  within  ten  or  twenty 
years,  it  is  gratifying  to  any  philanthropist  as  being  the  result 
of  our  free  institutions. 

A  marine  hospital  and  rail-way  are  erected. 

Buflalo  and  Black  Rock  have  a  supply  of  water  by  a  canal 
coming  from  the  creek  four  miles  above  the  city  to  its  eastern 
limits,  that  has  attracted  to  its  borders  a  considerable  popu- 
lation engaged  in  manufactures.  Steam-boats  for  Detroit  and 
the  intermediate  ports,  and  for  Chippewa  and  the  Falls,  go 
daily.  Much  inconvenience  to  the  trade  on  the  canal,  and  to 
the  commerce  of  Buffalo,  is  occasioned  by  the  ice,  that  in 
April,  or  later,  blocks  up  the  harbor  for  several  weeks,  and 
this  can,  perhaps,  only  be  obviated  in  part,  by  continuing  the 
canal  along  the  lake  shore  to  Dunkirk  or  Portland,  near  the 
western  border  of  the  State.  The  great  rail-road  from  Dun- 
kirk through  the  southern  range  of  counties  to  the  city  of 
New- York,  about  400  miles  long,  that  is  now  in  progress,  is 
another  cogent  reason  why  this  canal  should  be  continued  to 
the  same  terminating  point. 
/        For  description  of  Buffalo  see  p.  69  and  70. 


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THB    ^RlMClPAIi    PIiAC£S    ON    TUB  CANAL, 

AND  THEIR 
DISTANCE   FROM   EACH   OTHER, 

•■  ■■■■■  ■:     .     :,j 

As   adopted  by    the   Canal   Board. 


'\\ 


JErie   and  JTunction   Canal* 


■*?•'     .x 


NAMES  OP  PLACES. 


Albany, 

Port  Schuyler, 

Washington,  (Gibbonsville,) 

West  Troy, 

Junction, 

Cohoes, 

Lower  Aqueduct, 

Willow  Spring, 

Upper  Aqueduct, 

Schenectady, 

Rotterdam, 

Phillip's  Locks, 

Amsterdam, 

Schoharie  Creek, 

Smithtown,  (Auriesville,) 

CRughnawaga,  (Fultonville,) 

Big  Nose, 

Spraker's  Basin, 

Cnnajoharie,        .        .       • 

Fort  Plain,        .        . 

Diefendorrs  Landing, 

Minden  Dam,  (St.  Johnsville,) 

East  Canada  Creek, 

Indian  Castle,  (Nowandaga  Creek,) 

Fink's  Ferry, 

Little  Falls,     . 

Rankin's  Lock,  (No.  7,) 

Herkimer  Lower  Bridge, 

Herkimer  Upper  Bridge, 

Fulmer's  Creek, 

Morgan's  Landing, 


DISTANCE   FROM. 


o 

V 

.5  p. 


0 
5 

1 

1 
« 
1 

3 
6 

7 

4 

r 

5 
3 
5 
2 
3 
7 
2 
3 
3 
3 
2 
4 
2 
3 
2 
3 
4 
1 
1 
1 


I 


0 
5 
6 

7 
9 
10 
13 
19 
26 
30 
39 
14 
47 
52 
54 
57 
64 
66 
69 
72 
75 
77 
81 
83 
86 
88 
91 
95 
96 
97 
98 


u 


no 

105 

104 

103 

101 

100 

97 

91 

84 

80 

71 

66 

63 

•>() 
53 
46 
44 
41 
38 
35 
33 
29 
27 
24 
22 
19 
IS 
14 
13 
12 


e 

m 
4> 

M 
u 

o 


269 
264 
263 
262 
260 
259 
256 
250 
243 
239 
330 
225 
222 
217 
215 
212 
205 
203 
200 
197 
194 
192 
188 
186 
183 
181 
178 
174 
173 
172 
171 


9 


364 

359 

358 

357 

355 

354 

351 

345 

338 

334 

325 

320 

317 

312 

310 

30' 

300 

298 

'.J95 

289 
287 
283 
281 

273 
269 
288 
267 
277 


rr^ 


120 


Erie  and  Junction  CanaL 


■''^■-  .'T- 


NAMES  OP  PLACES. 


h) 


U;.' 


Steel's  Creek,  .        ;        •        . 

Frankfort,  .... 

FergUBOuVi      >        .        .        .        . 
Utica,  .        .        .        .        »   * 

York  Mills,  (Wetraore's,)        .       . 
Wh'tesboro'        .        . 

Oriskany,      ' 

Rome,  ..... 

Woofl  Creek  Aqueduct,  (Fort  Bull,) 
Hawley's  Basin,  .        .        . 

Stoney  Creek,  .        .        .        , 

Now  London,       .... 
Higgina',  .        .        .        .        . 

Looniis',       ..... 
Oneida  Creek,  (Durhamville,)        < 
Canaetota,  .... 

New  Boston,  (Canasaraga,)    . 

Chitteuarign,        .... 

Pool's  Brook,  *       .       . 

Kirkville, 

Little  Luke,     .... 

Man  I  i  us,  (Reels,) 

Limestone  Feeder,  .        , 

Orville  Feeder,  .        , 

Lodi,        ..... 

Syracuse, 

Geddes,    ..... 

Belisle, 

Nine  Mile  Creek,     .        , 

Camillus,     .... 

Canton,     ..... 

Peru,'    ...... 

Jordan,     ..... 

Cold  Spring,        .        . 

Weedsport,     .... 

Centre  port, 

Port  Byron,      .... 
Montezuma,  (Lakeport,)    . 
Lockpit,  .    >■<*    '  't"*     i 

Clyde, 

Lock  Berlin 

Lyons, 

Lockville,        .... 
Newark,       ..... 
,  Port  Gibson^    .... 


DISTANCE  FROM 

e 

• 

a 

**  >; 

>, 

ao 

6 

lace 
plac( 

a 
a 

ja 

• 
«4 

3 

3 

On 

< 

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99 

11 

17U 

265~ 

2 

101 

9 

168 

263 

<) 

107 

3 

162 

257 

3 

no 

0 

159 

254 

3 

113 

3 

156 

i.'5l 

1 

114 

4 

l."^i5 

250 

3 

117 

7 

152 

247 

8 

125 

15 

144 

239 

2 

127 

17 

142 

237 

2 

129 

19 

140 

235 

1 

130 

20 

139 

234 

2 

132 

22 

137 

m 

4 

136 

26 

i;j3 

228 

2 

138 

28 

131 

226 

3 

141 

31 

128 

222 

5 

146 

36 

123 

218 

4 

150 

40 

119 

214 

3 

153 

43 

116 

211 

3 

156 

46 

113 

208 

2 

158 

48 

ill 

20ft 

2 

160 

50 

109 

2(14 

2 

162 

52 

107 

202 

1 

163 

53 

106 

2(11 

2 

1(55 

55 

104 

19!) 

5 

170 

60 

99 

194 

1 

171 

61 

98 

193 

2 

173 

63 

96 

191 

4 

177 

67 

92 

187 

1 

178 

68 

91 

180 

1 

179 

69 

90 

185 

5 

184 

74 

85 

18i) 

2 

186 

76 

83 

173 

4 

190 

80 

79 

174 

1 

191 

81 

78 

173 

5 

190 

86 

73 

168 

1 

1«7 

87 

72 

167 

2 

199 

89 

70 

165 

f? 

205 

95 

64 

159 

6 

211 

101 

58 

153 

5 

216 

106 

53 

US 

5 

221 

111 

48 

143 

4 

225 

115 

44 

139 

6 

231 

121 

38 

133 

1 

232 

122 

37 

132 

3 

S35 

125 

34 

129 

Junction  and  Erie  Canal. 


121 


ilOM 

u 

o 

«-* 

(O 

o 

Si 

3 

u 

td 

o 

3 

Pi 

PQ 

170 

265 

168 

263 

162 

257 

159 

254 

156 

t.'5l 

155 

250 

152 

247 

144 

239 

142 

237 

140 

235 

130 

234 

1:J7 

232 

i:j3 

228 

131 

226 

128 

222 

123 

218 

119 

214 

116 

211 

113 

208 

ill 

20b 

109 

204 

107 

202 

106 

2ol 

104 

199 

99 

194 

98 

193 

96 

191 

92 

187 

91 

186 

90 

185 

85 

180 

83 

178 

79 

174 

78 

i:3 

73 

168 

72 

167 

70 

165 

04 

159 

58 

153 

53 

US 

48 

143 

44 

139 

38 

133 

37 

132 

34 

129 

^ 

DISTANCE  1 

J-ROM 

NAMES  CF  PLACES. 

o 

• 

a 

• 

es 

o 

as 

43 

• 

o 
3 

, 

U   (9 

es 

u 

w 

€ 

E^ 

Xi 

o 

Pi 

29 

3 

Palmyra, 

5 

240 

130 

124 

Macedonville, 

4 

244 

134 

25 

12a 

Wayneport,  (Barrager's  Basin,) 

3 

247 

137 

22 

117 

Perrinton,  (Lindol'i  Bridge,)  . 

3 

249 

139 

20 

115 

Perrinton  Centre,  (Col.  Peter's,) 

2 

251 

141 

18 

113 

Fairport,          .        .        .        .        • 

1 

252 

142 

17 

112 

Fullam's  Basin, 

1 

253 

143 

16 

111 

Busbnell's  Basin,     .... 

3 

256 

146 

13 

108 

Pittsford, 

3 

259 

149 

A  10 

105 

Biilinghast's  B^sin, 

4 

263 

153 

6 

101 

Lock  No.  3, 

2 

265 

155 

4 

99 

Rochester, 

4 

269 

T^g 

U 

95 

Brockway's, 

10 

279 

ri9 

10 

85 

Spencer's  Basin,      .        .        •        . 

2 

281 

171 

12 

83 

Adams'  Basin 

3 

284 

174 

15 

80 

Cooley's  Basin,         .... 

3 

287 

177 

18 

77 

Brockport, 

2 

289 

179 

20 

75 

Hoiley,- 

5 

294 

184 

25 

70 

ocio, 

4 

298 

188 

29 

66 

Albion,     

6 

304 

194 

35 

60 

Gaines'  Basin,     ..... 

2 

306 

196 

37 

58 

Eagle  Harbor,         .        . 

1 

307 

197 

38 

57 

Long  Bridge, 

2 

309 

199 

40 

55 

Knowlesville, 

2 

311 

201 

42 

5:1 

Road  Culvert, 

1 

312 

202 

43 

52 

Medina, 

3 

315 

205 

46 

49 

Shelba  Basin, 

3 

318 

208 

49 

46 

Middleport, 

3 

321 

211 

52 

43 

Reynold's  Basin,         .... 

3 

324 

214 

55 

40 

Gasport, 

2 

326 

216 

57 

38 

Lockport, 

7 

333 

223 

64 

31 

Pendleton, 

7 

340 

230 

71 

24 

Welch's 

2 

342 

232 

73 

23 

H.  Brockway's,       .... 

4 

346 

236 

77 

18 

Tonnawanta 

6 

352 

242 

83 

12 

Lower  Black  Rock, 

8 

360 

250 

91 

4 

Black  Rock, 

1 

361 

351 

92 

3 

Buffalo, 

3 

364 

354 

95 

0 

11 


»"l  • 


■y'l 


132 


Champlain  Canal. 
CHAMPLAIN  CANAL. 


9  •  ♦ 


// 


NAMES  OF  PLACES. 


Albany, 
West  Troy, 
Junction, 
Waterford, 
Mechanicville,    . 
Stillwater  Village,  . 
Bleecker's  Basin, 
Wilber's  Basin, 
Van  Duzen's  Landing, 
Schuylerville, 
Saratoga  Bridge, 
Fort  Miller,      . 
Moses  Kill, 
Fort  Edward, 
Glenn's  Falls  Feeder, 
Baker's  Basin, 
Smith's  Basin,     • 
Fort  Ann, 

Comstock's  Landing, 
Whitehall, 


Whole  distance  Erie  Ceial, 
.^^JhK*      -  ^o.     Champlain  do. 


DISTANCE 

rROM 

^-J 

2  . 

• 

>> 

-s 

il 

a 
a 

•a 

•3 

0 

< 

'^ 

0 

73 

7 

7 

66 

2 

9 

64 

3 

12 

61 

8 

20 

53 

4 

24 

49 

2 

26 

47 

2 

28 

45 

5 

33 

40 

3 

36 

37 

2 

38 

.35 

3 

41 

32 

3 

44 

29 

5 

49 

24 

2 

51 

22 

1 

52 

21 

5 

57 

16 

4 

61 

12 

4 

65 

8 

8 

73 

0 

363  miles. 

64 

do. 

tv.. 


f  .,; 


Houte  and  expenses  from  JVew'  York  to  St,  Ltouis, 


New -York  to  Albany, 

Albany  to  Buffalo,  by  Erie  Canal,  in  packet  boat,    . 
♦'  "  "       "       ia  line  boat,    . 

Buffalo  to  Erie,  by  steam, 

Buffalo  to  Ashtabula  by  steam, 

Buffalo,  to  Cleveland,  Ohio,  by  do 

Erie  to  Beaver,  on  the  Ohio,  by  stage,  including  food, 
Beaver  to  Cincinnati,  by  steam,        .... 

Cincinnati  to  Louisville,  by  steam 

Louisville  to  Shawneetown,  by  steam, 

Louisville  to  St.  Louis,  by  steam,         .... 


50 


cents 

to  $g  00 

do. 

15  00 

do. 

9  00 

do. 

3  00 

do. 

4  50 

do. 

6  50 

do. 

5  50 

do. 

10  00 

do. 

3  00 

do. 

6  00 

do. 

12  00 

•  »> 


I 


3 


les. 


73 
66 
64 
61 
53 
49 
47 
45 
40 
37 
35 
32 
29 
24 
22 
21 
16 
12 
8 
0 


1Ui9» 


$2  00 
15  00 

9  00 

3  00 

4  50 
6  50 

5  50 

10  00 
3  00 

6  00 
12  00 


i   ■ 


'.,  f 


ne2 


•V-'i  ■■ 


nd 


;by 
3na- 

six 
300. 
t  of 
nain 
urge 
ord- 
onal 

be- 
t  of 

and 
ome 

roy, 
ning 
)aHy 
000. 
ions 

I 


itm 


^^^m 


VN 


■  \ 


^Pl 


Steam-boat  Route  to  St.  Louis, 


123 


SUam^boat  route  to   8t,  Mjouts,  via  Ltdke  JBHe,  JTc. 

V  above   ll^OO  miieB, 

1  ■■  <  ■  f-»  ■ 

From  Buffalo  to  Dunkirk, •  ,  i 

Portland, 

'    ,   ' '"  Salem, 
'       '  Ashtabula, 

Grand  River, 
■:.,  Cleveland, 

Huron, 
Sandusky, 
Detroit, 
I  Mackina, 

Green  Bay, 
Chicago, 
Stage  coBches  go  from  Chicago  to  St.  Louis,  320  miles. 

do.  to  Galen,  Wisconsin,  is  160  miles,  time  8 

days  and  nights,  stage  fare  $12  to  $15.  ,  >  ,  ^  vf  ^ ;    ';      ?  » 


.        •        •        •        t        • 


45  miles. 

60 

90 
180 

135    / 
165    '    vf 
195         > 
845         :^ 
260 

330  > 

600    i^if'v 
750  , 

900 


« 1 


;i  :^i .:;-:; 


Route  from  Albany,  Troy,  Ballston,  and 
Saratoga,  to  LalbLe  George,  Ticonderoga, 
and  l¥liitehall.  > 


The  capital  macadamized  road  of  six  miles,  that  leads  by 
the  side  of  the  Erie  Canal  and  the  Hudson  River  to  Gibbons- 
ville,  and  past  the  United  States  arsenal  to  West  Troy,  six 
miles,  is  one  of  the  best  roads  in  the  State,  and  cost  $90,000. 
The  Arsenal  is  comprised  within  a  very  extensive  plot  of 
ground,  bisected  by  the  Erie  Canal,  and  adjoining  the  main 
road,  and  consists  of  several  fire-proof  edifices,  and  large 
stores  of  small  arms,  and  the  various  munitions  of  war,  ord- 
nance shops,  &.C. ;  this  is  one  of  the  most  important  national 
dep6ts,  and  is  worth  a  moment's  time  of  tbo  traveler  to  be- 
hold, as  the  armory  always  contains  an  immense  stock  of 
small  arms,  arranged  in  glittering  and  imposing  manner,  and 
the  relics  of  the  revolutionary  parks  of  artillery,  and  of  some 
presented  by  the  King  of  France,  Louis  14th. 

fVest  Troy  has  grown  up  rapidly,  and  is  a  suburb  of  Troy, 
and  with  it  identified  in  interest  and  prosperity,  containing  , 
500  dwellings  and  3,300  inhabitants,  employed  principally 
in   manufactures,  with  a   bank  of  a  capital  of   $150,000. 
There  is  an  India  rubber  manufactory,  and  several  operations 


*  ■ 


iU 


1 

if' 

I 

>Wm 

1 

1: 

1  \ 

»'■ 


194 


Troy. 


carried  on  that  derive  water  power  from  the  lurplui  waters 
of  tho  Erie  and  Junction  Canals,  that  by  a  side  cut  have  an 
outlet  here  into  the  Hudson,  and  across  the  river  to  Troy, 
and  the  intercourse  by  means  of  ferries  and  the  rail-road 
bridge  is  constantly  kept  up. 

One  of  the  sprouts  of  the  Mohawk  passes  under  the  bridge 
that  loads  from  West  Troy  to  Tibbitt's  Island.  The  lower 
ferry  near  the  arsenal  loads  across  the  Hudson,  here  one 
eighth  of  a  mile  wide,  to  Washington-street  and  the  foot  of 
Mount  Ida  on  the  east  bank,  300  feet  high,  from  which  is  one 
of  the  finest  views  and  panoramic  scenes  on  the  Hudson.  The 
mansion  and  grounds  of  John  Hart  and  -— —  Wilson  oc- 
cupy the  summit,  and  George  Tibbitts  the  next  one  north. 

The  middle  ferry,  passing  beyond  Liberty  and  Division- 
streets,  lands  at  Ferry-street,  and  penetrates  the  central  part 
of  the  city  to  the  east.  The  next  streets  in  a  parallel  direc- 
tion to  the  last,  are  in  succession,  Congress,  State,  Albany, 
Elbow,  Grand ;  the  tsvo  latter  extending  east  past  the  Rens- 
selaer Institute,  established  by  the  late  patroon,  Stephen 
Van  Rensselaer,  Esq.  for  gratuitous  education,  by  A.  Eaton. 

The  next  in  order  are  Federal-street,  and  the  rail-road 
bridge,  Jacob,  Button,  and  Hoosack-streets ;  from  the  latter, 
the  capital  macadamized  road  leads  out  north-east  to  Ben- 
nington in  Vermont,  28  miles,  and  the  company  that  con- 
structed it  have  the  grant  of  laying  rails  on  the  same,  con- 
nected with  the  rail-road  to  Brattleboro',  on  the  Connecticut 
Biver ;  thence  is  a  road  to  Lowell,  on  the  Merrimack,  mak- 
ing a  new  route  to  Boston. 

The  next  streets  north  of  Hoosick  are  Vanderheyden,  Jay, 
Rensselaer,  and  North,  (east  of  which  is  Mount  Olympus,  120 
feet  high,)  then  Middlebury,  Canal,  and  Dow-streets,  and  the 
water-works  on  the  north,  and  the  State  dam  of  nine  feet  high, 
extending  across  the  Hudson,  and  backing  the  water  to  Lan- 
singburg  and  Waterford,  witi    locks  of  a  size  to  pass  sloops. 

River-street  is  the  principal  thoroughfare  next  to  the  Hud- 
son, and  contains  the  principal  warehouses,  stores,  and  shops, 
and  some  hotels;  the  Mechanic,  the  Troy,  and  Mansion 
houses  ;  the  two  latter  on  Albany  and  River-streets,  the 
Franklin,  corner  of  Elbow-street,  and  Washington  Hall,  cor- 
ner of  Grand  and  Division-streets,  and  SiearrVs,  near  King- 
street,  and  the  Northern  Hotel  between  Jacob,  and  Hutton, 
and  River,  and  Second-streets,  the  American,  and  the  Na- 
tional. 


Troy. 


126 


Next  to  River>street  on  the  east,  nre  streets  named  from 
FirMt  to  Seventh  streets,  and  on  First  street  is  the  bank  of 
Troy,  the  Presbyterian  and  Scotch  Presbyterian  churcheg, 
and  on  the  Second  street  is  the  celebrated  Seminary  for  fe- 
maleSf  so  long  and  ably  mnnaged  by  Mrs.  VVillard,  (lately  re- 
tired, and  succeeded  by  her  son  and  daughterin-law,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  John  H.  VVillard,  as  joint  principals,  aided  by  17 
assistant  teachers.)  The  terijs  are  $240  per  annum.  The 
Episcopal  and  Presbylerian  churches  are  creditable  and  orna- 
mental edifices,  as  is  the  court  house  of  marble,  with  pillars  in 
the  Grecian  style. 

Troy  has  a  population  of  20,000,  four  banks,  total  capital 
$1,318,000,  and  three  insurance  companies  $800,000,  12 
churches,  (four  Presbyterian,  two  Episcopal,  one  Baptist,  one 
Methodist,  one  Roman  Catholic,  one  Bethel,  one  Friends,  one 
Universalist,)  a  market  and.  a  jail,  a  lyceum  of  natural  his- 
tory and  cabinet  of  minerals,  an  asylum  for  orphans,  and  a 
house  of  industry,  several  daily  and  weekly  papers,  and 
many  schools.  The  houses  are  of  brick,  there  having  been 
several  large  fires  that  have  most  used  up  the  wooden  ones, 
and  the  streets  are  paved,  and  ornamented  with  trees,  and  jets 
of  water  from  the  reservoir,  that  has  a  head  of  76  feet,  and 
supplies  the  city  by  iron  pipes  subterranean. 

The  warehouses  fronting  the  Hudson  are  lofty,  and  the 
enterprise,  activity,  zeal,  and  public  spirit  manifested  by  the 
citizens  of  Troy,  in  competing  with  Albany  for  the  steam-boat 
business,  and  the  canal  and  river  trade,  and  in  rail-roads  to 
the  Springs,  and  roads  to  the  interior,  evince  the  stamina  of 
wealth  and  perseverance. 

As  a  residence  either  temporary  or  permanent,  for  business, 
or  pleasure,  or  health,  it  has  much  to  recommend  it.  It  is  in- 
corporated, and  has  six  wards,  a  mayor,  and  12  aldermen. 

The  first  house  built  in  the  village  of  Vanderheyden,  as  it 
was  called  in  1707,  yet  remains,  corner  of  River  and  Division- 
streets.  In  1787  there  were  but  four  dwellings,  and  the 
ground  was  covered  with  oaks  and  pines.  The  Poesten  and 
Wynant's  Kill,  coming  from  the  east, 'have  a  descent  of  400 
feet  in  four  miles,  of  which  270  are  in  the  city  bounds,  and 
give  great  power,  that  is  used  for  a  variety  of  purposes,  by- 
four  flouring  mills  (capable  of  making  100,000  barrels  of  flour 
yearly,)  a  wool  and  cotton  factory,  nail  and  spike  factory,  and 
rolling  and  slitting,  one  paper  mill. 

Cascadilla, B^t\he  ironworks  one  mile  off, has  60 dwellings. 

11* 


rrr 


J  26 


Troy—Lannnghurg. 


There  are  also  air  furnaces,  steam  engine  and  machine  fac- 
tory, breweries,  tanneries,  four  large  tallow  chandlers,  famous 
for  making  best  tallow  candles,  two  carriage  factories,  whpse 
stages  are  seen  all  over  the  United  States,  bell  and  brass 
founderies,  three  plaster  mills,  two  burr  mill  stone  factories, 
a  shovel  and  spade  factory,  a  rope  walk,  bleaching  and  col- 
oring works.  There  are  100  vessels  owned  in  this  place,  and 
several  of  the  largest  steam  boats  on  the  Hudson,  that  carry 
yearly  23*2,000  tons  of  freight,  and  10  tow  boats  that  carry 
66,000  tons,  160  canal  boats,  of  30  to  40  tons  each,  belonging 
to  the  Troy  line  to  bring  produce  to  this  city  direct,  67  cot- 
ton and  40  woollen  factories  are  within  the  range  and  influ- 
ence of  the  Troy  market  to  the  east  and  north,  and  draw 
their  supplies  hence,  and  the  water  power  that  is  still  unem- 
ployed in  this  vicinity,  that  may  be  drawn  from  the  Hudson 
and  Mohawk,  &c.  is  immense. 

A  pleasant  walk  m'Ay  be  taken  along  the  banks  of  the  Poes- 
ten,  and  other  kills,  tracing  them  up  to  their  summits,  through 
narrow  gorges  or  ravines,  and  cragged  rocks,  amid  trees,  and 
shrubs,  and  murmuring  falls  and  cascades,  wild,  romantic, 
and  picturesque. 

The  great  slide  or  land  slip  that  took  place  from  the  dis- 
ruption of  a  hill  to  the  east  of,  and  immediately  in  the  rear 
of  Troy,  in  1837,  by  which  several  lives  were  lost,  is  well 
worth  viewing  as  a  matter  of  curiosity,  and  though  the  ascent, 
by  toiling  up  Congress  street,  past  Mr.  Tibbitt's,  and  thence 
to  the  right  or  south  to  Mount  Ida,  may  be  arduous,  yet  the 
view  that  will  unfold  itself  to  the  eye  is  splendid,  and  cannot 
but  be  impressive. 

The  alluvial  flats  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  are  from  a  quarter 
to  half  a  mile  wide,  and  the  arrangement  of  the  city  plat  is 
into  blocks  of  400  by  280  feet,  intersected  by  alleys.  Fifteen 
of  the  streets  range  north  and  south,  and  19  east  and  west, 
and  are  60  feet  wide,  and  graveled  or  paved,  and  lighted. 

Omnibusses  and  stagps  are  continually  passing  between 
Albany  and  Troy,  for  a  fare  of  12j  cents  each  passenger. 

Lansingburg  is  three  miles  north  of  Troy,  has  3,000  inhabit- 
ants, six  churches,  and  500  dwellings,  principally  on  one 
street,  and  a  bank.  It  is  laid  out  in  squares  400  by  260  feet,  with 
alleys  and  wide  streets,  is  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk, 
and  the  roar  of  the  Cohoes  Fails  can  be  heard  at  night,  and 
from  the  hills  in  the  rear  it  can  be  seen  at  a  distance  of  five 
miles  vrest,  beyond  Van  Shaick*s  Island,  where  was  the  camp 


i 


Waterford— Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  Rail-road.      127 

of  the  Americans  before  the  capture  of  Burgoyne  at  Saratoga, 
in  1777,  and  here  the  army  under  Gen.  Schuyler  had  en- 
trenched, and  were  to  have  made  a  last  and  desperate  stand, 
if  the  enemy  had  thus  far  advanced. 

Famous  good  ale  is  here  made  by  several  establishments  on 
a  large  scale,  and  there  are  40  stores,  and  much  business,  and 
many  mills  and  factories,  slaughtering  and  packing  houses, 
oil  cloths,  brushes  and  bellows,  guns  and  rifles,  machine 
cards,  &c.  The  communication  with  the  towns  below,  by 
hourly  coaches,  omnibusses,  &c.  make  this  almost  a  suburb 
of  Troy. 

Waterford  has  four  churches,  200  dwellings,  population 
2,000,  and  a  bank  with  a  capital  of  $100,000,  several  flour 
mills  and  manufactories  that  derive  their  water  power  from 
the  Mohawk,  and  here  are  three  locks  of  11  feet,  uniting  the 
Champlain  Canal  to  the  Hudson  and  Mohawk.  The  bridge 
over  the  Hudson  to  Lansingburg,  of  800  feet  long,cost  S70,000, 
was  carried  away  in  the  great  storm  and  freshet  of  26th  and 
27th  of  January,  1839.  This  is  the  extreme  head  ofsloop  navi- 
gation. The  Cohoes  Falls,  on  the  Mohawk,  that  are  else- 
where described,  (see  p.  88,)  may  be  visited  in  a  ride  of  three 
miles  from  this  place,  and  the  aqueduct  over  the  Mohawk, 
and  other  scenes  and  points  of  importance. 

The  Rensselaer  tit} '1  Saratoga  Rail-road  starts  in  Troy  from 
the  vicinity  of  the  fashionable  hotels,  the  Troy  House,  and  the 
Mansion  House,  at  the  junction  of  Albany  and  River-streets, 
and  goes  throurh  River  to  Frederick-street,  and  thence  crosses 
the  Hudson  by  a  covered  bridge  1,600  feet  long,  on  eight  piers 
of  cut  stone,  30  feet  above  high  water,  and  34  feet  wide,  with 
a  water  way  of  180  feet  between  erch  pier,  two  of  them  rest- 
ing on  Fish  Island,  thence  to  Tibbitt's  or  Green  Island,  and 
then  assumes  a  direction  to  the  north  four  and  a  half  miles, 
passing  over  the  delta  and  three  branches  of  the  Mohawk  on 
bridges  resting  on  substantial  abutments  of  stone  to  Water- 
ford, thence  following  side  by  side  with  tne  canal  and  the  Hud- 
son River  for  eight  miles  to  Mechanicsville,  a  village  of  a  few 
mills  and  60  dwellings,  then  crossing  the  canal,  turns  to  the 
north-west  up  the  valley,  and  past  Round  Lake  in  four  miles, 
and  in  six  miles  from  this,  a  creek,  and  for  two  miles  it  runs 
in  close  proximity  to  the  Saratoga  and  Schenectady  Rail-road, 
and  enters  Ballston  Spa,  and  there  uniting  with  the  other 
road,  both  trains  pass  on  to  Saratoga,  after  a  few  minutes 
halt  to  discharge  thoso  passengers  dcsiroug  of  remaining 


"■Kwi 


in 


Tlie  Stimpson  Farm — BalUton  Springs. 


\'h 


at  BalUton  for  a  few  days  to  test  the  exhilarating  qualities  of 
its  famous  medicinal  waters,  and  enjoy  the  fashionable  eo- 
ciety  at  the  Sans  Souci  and  the  other  hotels.  Twenty-four 
miles  from  Troy,  seven  from  Saratoga,  30  from  Albany. 

There  are  three  churches,  a  reading-  room,  a  court  house,  a 
jail,  a  six  story  brick  building  intended  for  a  cotton  factory, 
several  mills,  six  hotels  and  stores,  180  houses,  and  1,100  in- 
habitants. It  is  situated  in  a  vale,  and  a  small  creek  winds 
its  way  through  the  centre,  and  has  a  succession  of  cascades, 
where  art  has  added  to  the  picturesque  effect. 

The  price  of  board  is  from  three  to  eight  or  ten  dollars  a 
week.  As  there  are  two  post  offices  in  the  town,  travelers 
must  be  careful  to  have  their  letters  and  papers  sent  to  Ballston 
Spa. 

The  Stimpson  Farm  in  Galway,  of  1000  acres,  is  on  a  spur 
of  a  mountain  10  miles  north-west  of  the  spa  in  Ballston, 
and  as  boarders  are  received  by  the  proprietor,  and  the  farm 
is  celebrated  as  a  pattern,  and  is  withal  situated  in  a  position 
overlooking  a  large  extent  oi'country,  a  visit  to  it,  in  making  a 
circuit  through  the  neighborhood,  is  recommended. 
'  By  his  method,  four  tons  of  hay  and  100  bushels  of  corn 
to  the  acre  have  been  realized. 

Galway  Corners  has  two  churches,  four  stores,  40  dwellings, 
and  two  public  houses.  West  Galway,  three  miles  further, 
has  20  dwellings,  and  a  meeting-house  for  Quakers,  Baptists, 
and  Presbyterians. 

A  ride  on  the  plains  between  the  Green  and  Mayfield  Moun- 
tains, is  a  favorite  excursion  with  strangers. 

The  Sans  Souci  is  the  most  prominent  building  in  this  vil- 
lage, and  is  of  wood,  with  a  front  of  160  feet,  and  wings  of 
150  feet,  and  three  stories  high;  that,  with  its  broad  piazzas^ 
and  court  yard  tastefully  embellished  with  trees  and  shrub- 
bery, its  neat  lawns,  clean  and  well  kept  gardens  and  grounds, 
makes  an  agreeable  impression  on  the  traveler  as  the  train 
takes  a  sweep  through  the  village,  crosses  the  Kyaderasserae, 
and  he  alights  at  this  splendid  hotel. 

The  spring  in  the  rear  of  the  hotel,  and  that  in  the  rear  of 
the  village  hotel,  and  the  original  spring  at  the  west  of  the 
village,  contain,  as  essential  ingredients,  the  carbonates  of  so- 
da, of  lime,  iron,  and  magnesia;  the  tonic  qualities  of  the  iron, 
and  the  sparkling  and  enlivening  influence  of  the  fixed  air 
that  they  possess  in  an  extraordinary  degree,  have  a  wonderful 
effect  upon  enervated,  bilious,  and  debilitated  constitutions. 


Balhton  Lake— Saratoga  Spring9. 


129 


Such  is  the  salutary  effect  of  these  waters  upon  some,  that 
an  annual  resort  to  them  in  summer  is  indispensable,  but  to 
strangers  prudence  would  dictate  that  the  advice  of  a  resi- 
dent physician  should  always  be  obtained  as  to  the  quantity 
and  mode  of  taking  them.  ' »-  i-^^y^^-  J^f*  - 

Baliston,  or  Long  Lake,  is  five  miles  south  of  the  Spa,  and 
is  a  fine  body  of  pure  water,  five  miles  in  extent  north  and 
south,  and  one  wide,  and  yields  good  sp*  rt  to  the  votaries  of 
old  Isaac  Walton  ;  and  the  same  may  be  said  of  other  lakes 
in  this  county  and  vicinity,  such  as  Saratoga,  Round  and  Owl 
Lakes  ;  the  former  is  nine  miles  long  by  three  wide,  six  south 
of  Saratoga  and  six  east  of  Ballston  Spa ;  and  at  the  taverns 
on  the  west  shore  of  the  lake  are  good  accommodations,  and 
the  necessary  equipments  for  fishing,  fowling,  or  sailing.  The 
border  of  the  Saratoga  Lake  is  marshy  and  accessible  but  in 
few  places,  but  soon  rises  into  elevated  ridges  amphitheatri- 
cally,  with  some  cultivation.  Snake  hill  on  the  east  shore 
is  200  feet  high,  and  intrudes  into  the  lake  three  miles 
from  the  south  end.  The  argillaceous  and  graywacke  slate 
composing  its  rock  strata  is  remarkably  contorted.  The 
lake  is  supplied  by  the  Kyaderasseras  Greek  that  heads  in  the 
mountains  a  few  miles  to  the  north-west,  and  its  outlet  is 
Fish  Creek,  that  joins  the  Hudson  at  Schuylerville  eight  miles 
east.    (See  index  ) 

As  the  cars  leave  Ballston  for  Saratoga,  the  road  curves 
to  the  north  through  the  principal  street  over  a  bridge  and 
an  embankment,  and  then  strikes  off  to  the  north-east  over 
the  creek,  which  course  it  continues  to  Saratoga.  The  line 
of  this  road  of  21^  miles,  passing  the  Ballston  Lake  as  above 
described,  is  over  a  country  so  level  as  not  to  require  an 
inclination  over  16  feet  per  mile;  its  cost,  from  its  cheap 
construction,  being  only  $300,000,  with  engine,  cars,  &c. ; 
the  sills  of  wood  with  iron  plates. 


Saratog^a  Springs, 

that  are  now  so  easily  reached  by  rail-road  from  Albany  or 
Troy,  are  situated  on  a  broad  street,  on  which  are  the  princi- 
pal hotels,  five  churches  and  250  dwellings.  The  hotels  in 
most  repute  are  the  United  Slates,  an  edifice  of  brick, 
200  feet  by  36,  four  stories  high,  with  a  wing  of  60  feet 
en  the  north  and  three  stories  high,  and  another  on  the  south 


ISO 


Conffress  Hall'-^Pavillion— Union  Hall,  8fC. 


III 


of  100  feet  by  50,  with  commodious  parlors  and  bed>rooms 
for  families.  The  grand  piazza  in  front  extends  and  connects 
with  that  on  the  south  and  rear,  and  the  ground  and  garden 
is  most  tastefully  and  pleasingly  laid  out,  and  admirably  well 
kept,  clean  and  attractive;  the  bouse  can  receive  300,  and 
the  dining  and  drawing  rooms  are  capacious  and  elegant. 
There  are  about  five  acres  attached  to  this  establishment, 
with  extensive  stables,  &.c.  The  house  is  kept  by  Seaman 
and  Marvin. 

The  Congress  Hall  is  200  feet  in  front  and  three  stories 
high,  with  an  attic,  and  has  a  wing  of  60  and  one  of  100 
feet.  But  the  most  striking  and  effective  feature  in  this 
spacious  edifice,  and  in  fact  in  the  entire  village  street, 
is  the  ample  piazza  in  front,  and  its  pillars  of  wood  en- 
twined with  evergreens  in  the  happiest  manner,  with  a 
flower  garden  in  front  of  the  colonnade,  separated  from  the 
street  by  a  neat  railing.  A  pine  grove  and  a  garden  in  the 
rear  are  enjoyed  from  the  back  piazza.  The  construction 
is  of  wood,  and  can  also  receive  300.  It  is  the  nearest 
to  the  Congress  Spring,  the  fountain  of  health,  and  has  a 
gravel  wrik  and  shade  trees  leading  thereto. 

The  Pavillion  is  of  wood,  and  has  a  front  of  136  feet,  and  a 
wing  of  80,  and  one  of  200  feet,  with  private  parlors 
and  lodging  rooms,  convenient  for  families.  It  is  two  and 
a  half  stories  high  with  an  attic,  and  a  portico  and  collonade 
in  front ;  a  large  garden,  with  a  small  lake  in  the  rear  for 
fishing.  The  rooms  are  so  arranged  whh  folding  doors  as  to 
throw  open  the  whole  into  one  grand  saloon,  for  dining  or 
for  balls  and  large  assemblies. 

The  Union  Hallj  opposite  the  Congress,  120  feet  front  and 
three  stories  high,  with  two  wings  of  60  feet,  and  a  building 
adjoining  of  1(K)  feet,  with  private  parlors  and  a  garden  in 
the  rear ;  kept  by  Putnam  and  Taylor.  The  Adelphi  Hotel 
is  brick,  three  stories  high,  near  the  United  States ;  kept  by 
Mr.  Cross. 

The  Columbian  Hotel,  south  of  the  Pavillion,  has  a  garden. 

The  Washington  Hall,  a  retired  house  in  the  north  part  of 
the  street,  free  from  noise  and  dissipation.  Boarding  may 
be  had  from  four  to  twelve  dollars  per  week. 

Prospect  Hall,  one  mile  north-west,  by  B.  Rt  Putnam,  and 
Highland  Hall,  half  a  mile  south  of  the  Congress,  may  be 
resorted  to  in  case  of  need. 

The  healing  virtues  of  these  waters  to  invalids  was  un- 


High  Rock  Spring. 


131 


folded  by  the  aborigines  to  their  friend  and  patron,  Sir  William 
Johnson,  in  1767,  when  he  was  borne  to  the  spring  on  a  lit- 
ter, but  by  the  use  of  the  waters  a  few  weeks,  he  was  rein- 
stated in  Ksal''i.  At  that  time,  bears,  deer,  wolves  and  moose 
abounded,  beaver  and  salmon-trout  sported  in  the  stream,  and 
the  huts  of  the  Indians  were  scattered  in  the  valley. 

In  1783,  Gen.  P.  Schuyler  came  from  Fish  Creek  and  spent 
several  weeks  under  a  tent  with  his  family,  near  the  High 
Rock  Spring,  and  in  1789  G.  Putnam  came  in,  and  with  him 
and  his  descendants,  and  other  settlers  of  that  day,  began 
the  permanent  settlement  and  improvements  that  have  con- 
tinued to  the  present  time. 

The  High  Rock  Spring,  rising  as  it  does  in  a  circular  aper- 
ture to  a  certain  height  in  the  interior  of  a  dome-shaped 
rock,  elevated  several  feet  above  the  surrounding  level,  would 
in  any  part  of  the  world  oe  viewed  as  a  remarkable  curiosity  ; 
but  when  accompanied  as  it  is  by  the  emission  of  such  a 
quantity  of  fixed  air,  the  deadly  carbonic  acid  gas  of  the  labo- 
ratory of  nature,  with  the  mysterious  and  alarming  effect 
upon  animal  life  that  it  exhibits,  great  indeed  must  have  been 
the  astonishment  of  the  early  discoverers. 

Even  now  its  "  grotto  del  cane,'*  unseen  cause,  though 
understood  and  explained,  is  to  the  uninitiated  a  gaping 
wonder,  that  will  attract  for  ever  thousands  of  pilgrims  and 
worshippers. 

In  1792,  Mr.  Gillman,  a  member  of  Congress,  discovered  the 
Spring  that  bears  that  name,  issuing  from  an  aperture  in  the 
side  of  a  rock  that  bordered  the  little  brook  that  rises  from 
the  earth  50  rods  west,  and  for  several  years  it  could  only  be 
collected  in  small  quantities  as  it  came  from  the  rock,  only 
to  tantalize  the  eager  and  thirsty  recipient;  attempts  were 
made  to  excavate  and  search  for  its  source,  and  for  a  time  it 
was  lost,  and  the  goose  that  has  since  returned  and  placed  itM 
golden  egg  beneath,  fled  for  a  time  from  the  eager  and  prying 
curiosity  of  man,  but  the  sagacious  Putnam,  observing,  after  a 
lapse  of  events,  signs  of  gas  rising  through  the  water  of  the 
brook,  turned  the  stream  aside,  and  by  digging  eight  feet 
through  marl  and  gravel,  recovered  the  sacred  fountain,  placed 
a  tube  of  plank  ten  inches  square  rising  to  the  surface,  from 
whence  flows  the  precious  fluid  in  abundance — onegalion  per 
minute — and  can  be  increased  by  lessening  the  pressure  in 
the  curb.  The  temperature  is  50°  Fahrenheit.  The  analysis  of 
Dr.  Steel  gives,  in  a  gallon  of  231  cubic  inches  of  water, 


I  f 


// 


132  Columbian^  Washington,   Hamilton  Springs. 

chloride  of  sodium  or  sea  salt  385  grains  ;  hydriodate  of  soda, 
3.5;  bicarbonate  of  soda,  8.983,  bicarbonate  of  magnesia, 
96.738 ;  carbonate  of  lime,  98.098  ;  carbonate  of  iron,  6.076 ; 
silex,  1.5;  total,  597.943  grains;  and  of  carbonic  acid  gas, 
311 ;  atmospheric  air,  seven ;  total,  818  cubic  inches. 

The  gas  affects  respiration  near  the  surface  of  the  foun- 
tain, and  iish  and  frogs  when  immersed  in  the  water  perish. 
The  water  is  used  in  a  fresh  gaseous  state  in  making  bread, 
or  in  preparing  hot  cakes,  in  which  sour  cream  is  a  compo- 
nent, ana  forms  an  expeditious  and  palatable  article.  When 
first  brought  up  from  the  tubes  it  is  limpid  and  sparkling,  but 
soon  has  a  pellicle  and  sediment,  and  the  glass  has  a  stain; 
four  to  six  half-pints  in  the  morning  before  breakfast  operate 
as  a  cathartic  and  diuretic,  and  give  increased  appetite  and 
vigor. 

There  aro  13  other  springs  that  are  all  of  nearly  the  same 
properties,  and  rise  in  the  same  valley,  via.  the  Columbian 
Springs,  the  Washington,  the  Hamilton,  the  Flat  Rock,  and 
the  High  Rock,  the  President,  30  roils  north,  the  Red  Spring, 
70  rods  north-east ;  the  Barrel,  the  Walton,  the  Monroe,  the 
Ten  Springs,  one  mile  east ;  Ellis's,  two  miles  south-west, 
issues  hori;^ ontally,  sparkling,  clear,  acidulous  and  chalybeate, 
and  is  esteemed  for  its  iron  ;  its  temperature  is  48°.  The 
third  in  the  list  is  in  the  rear  of  Congress  Hall,  and  the  next 
in  the  rear  of  the  Pavillion,  100  rods  north-east,  under  a  small 
Chinese  temple  over  the  well,  that  is  15  feet  deep,  and  curbed. 
The  High  Rock  is  100  rods  further  north,  and  is  composed  of 
lime,  magnesia  and  oxide  of  iron,  sand  and  clay  ;  its  height, 
four  feet ,  circumference  at  base,  26  feet  eight  inches  ,*  a  line 
over  the  top  from  north  to  south,  11  feet  seven  inches;  and 
from  east  to  west,  10  feet  nine  inches;  from  the  top  of  the 
rock  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  two  feet  four  inches  ;  depth 
of  water,  seven  feet  six  inches;  diameter  of  opening  at  top, 
10  inches  ;  and  from  this  sky-light  opening  a  person  may  look 
into  the  interior  formation  of  the  dome,  from  whence,  no 
doubt,  the  water  formerly  issued  and  deposited  its  sediment 
equally  aroui^d  in  this  tutfa  formation. 

Bathing  hou^'es  may  be  found  at  the  Washington,  Hamilton, 
Putnam,  and  Monroe  Springs.  The  enormous  quantity  of 
fixed  air  that  is  contained  in  the  water  of  the  Congress,  to  the 
sum  of  more  than  its  bulk,  cannot  be  equalled  by  any  other  in 
the  world,  and  to  this  it  is  indebted  for  its  celebrity.'       v 

The  amusements  that  a  sojourner  at  Saratoga  may  enjoy, 


Sacondaffa  Riter—Lakei^  i^* 


133 


besides  the  rides  to  the  lakes  and  falls  within  a  few  mile*^ 
and  the  regular  balls  and  evening  parties  at  the  various  hotels, 
consist  in  a  subscription  to  the  excellent  library  and  reading- 
room  on  the  block  north  of  the  United  States  Hotel.  The 
library  is  possessed  of  several  thousand  volumes,  and  the 
readiny-room  supplied  wilh  100  papers,  periodicals,  &c.  and 
a  register  is  kept  of  the  arrivals  and  departures  of  the  vast 
concourse  of  strangers  that  throng  this  place  in  the  sultry 
months  of  June,  July,  and  August. 

Mails  from  Boston,  New- York,  Philadelphia,  Albany,  arrive 
with  great  punctuality,  and  are  closed  daily  at  nine  A.  M. 
The  same  caution  should  be  used  here  as  at  Ballston  Spa,  in 
having  letters  and  papers  directed  to  !^'*ratoga  Springs,  other- 
wise they  go  to,  and  remain  at  the  other  Saratoga  Post-Office, 
twelve  miles  distant. 

The  direct  distance  to  Sandy  Hill  is  14j  miles,  or  to  Glenn's 
Falls  on  the  Hudson  11  miles  in  a  north-east  direction,  and  ta 
those  desirous  of  vie  ving  the  splendid  falls,  Hadley'sand  Jes- 
sup's,  Glenn's  and  Baker's,  that  the  pencil  of  Wall  has  sketched 
in  the  Hudson  River  Portfolio,  it  is  suggested  to  those  intend- 
ing to  continue  on  to  the  north  to  Lakes  George  and  Cham- 
plain,  Montreal  and  Quebec,  that  by  hiring  a  coach  at  Sarato- 
ga it  will  be  but  a  slight  variation  from  their  route,  to  proceed 
in  the  first  place  to  the  upper  falls  in  the  town  of  Luzerne, 
about  13  miles  from  Saratoga,  past  Jessup's  Landing  to  the 
junction  of  the  Sacondaga  wilh  the  Hudson  at  Jessup's  Falls, 
and  then  crossing  the  Hudson  at  Jessup's  Landing  near  and 
above  Hadley's  Falls,  and  continuing  on  to  Glenn's  at  the  in- 
tersection of  the  road  from  the  souih  to  Lake  George,  and 
taking  the  host  conveyances  at  Sandy  Hill,  the  rail>road 
cars,  or  stages,  to  Whitehall  ii2  miles,  and  the  steam-boat 
down  the  lake  to  St.  John's,  Canada,  122  miles ;  or  else  go 
from  Sandy  Hill  or  Glenn  s  Falls  to  Caldwell,  at  the  head  of 
Lake  George,  and  by  steam-boat  36  miles  to  Alexandria,  en- 
joying the  ravishingscenesthat  are  unfolded  to  the  eye  of  the 
delighted  tourist  on  this  lake,  the  very  beau  ideal  of  all  that 
is  picturesque  and  beaufiful,  and  replete  with  scenes  of  the 
greatest  historical  interest  to  the  well-read  American  citizen 
and  patriot. 

The  Sacondagahranch  of  the  Hudson  River  is  about  80  miles 
long.  Its  sources  are  in  an  elevated  mountain  region,  em- 
bosoming a  system  of  lakes,  the  Piseker,  the  Oxbow  Round, 
and  Pleasant  Lakes,  that  may  be  reached  by  following  up  the 

12 


If! 


i 


\  I 


l\ 


m 


Lake  Plea»anl— Stillwater— Bemu»*  Heights . 


Saconda^a  valley  from  the  fish-house  in  Brondalbin,  and  up 
to  Lake  Pleasant,  the  Long  Lakes,  and  others  in  the  wild  cen< 
tral  regions  of  Hamilton  County,  itself  worthy  of  a  distinct 
exploration  on  foot,  and  of  a  detailed  description  ;  the  other 
branches  of  the  Hudson  will  be  alluded  to  hereafter. 

Leaving  Saratoga,  and  taking  the  road  that  leads  east  and 
crosses  Fish  Creek,  the  outlet  of  Saratoga  Lake,  we  arrive  in 
eight  miles  at  its  junction  with  the  Hudson,  and  on  the  arena 
where  was  enacted  some  of  the  most  important  events  in  the 
drama  of  the  revolution,  and  we  diverge  in  part  from  the  regu- 
lar route,  to  trace  back  the  chain  of  military  results  that 
transpired  in  this  vicinity. 

An  overwhelming  British  force  under  Gen.  Burgoyne  had 
succeeded  in  penetrating  from  Canada  into  the  heart  of  the 
state  of  New- York  in  powerful  array,  carrying  in  their  pro- 
gress the  strong  works  at  Crown  Point  and  Ticonderoga,  and 
arriving  at  Whitehall,  the  southern  termination  of  Lake 
Champlain,  flushed  with  victory,  began  to  form  a  road  through 
the  wilderness  to  Fort  Ann,  and  traces  of  it  yet  remain,  and 
from  thence  advanced  down  the  Hudson  valley,  driving  all 
before  them,  to  Stillwater,  at  which  place  a  severe  action  oc- 
curred on  the  17th  September,  1777,  that  broke  the  charm  of 
invincibility,  and  caused  the  enemy  to  retrace  their  steps, 
but  the  clustering  and  gathering  of  the  regular  troops  and 
militia  hernmed  in  and  prevented  the  advance  or  retreat  of 
the  gallant  foe,  and  finally  caused  a  capitulation  on  the  17th 
October. 

On  this  field  the  traveler  may  look  down  upon,  from  the 
hotel,  it  being  the  meadow  on  the  margin  of  the  Hudson  and 
Fish  Creek,  where  are  distinct  remains  of  Forts  Hardy  and 
Schuyler,  the  latter  being-  a  furlong  to  the  south-east,  over- 
looking the  river  and  creek,  the  northern  or  Champlain  Canal 
being  adjacent,  and  the  residence  of  the  Schuyler  family, 
and  the  owner  of  the  cotton  factory,  and  the  village  known  as 
Sckuylerville. 

At  Stillwater  and  en  Bemus'  Heights,  two  miles  west  of 
the  river,  was  the  fierce  and  sanguinary  struggle  between  the 
British  forces  and  the  Americans,  that  on  the  19th  September 
and  7th  October  decided  the  fate  not  only  of  the  defeated 
army  at  that  time,  but,  by  its  moral  effect  and  animation,  led, 
perhaps,  to  a  succession  of  triumphs,  and  the  establish- 
ment of  the  independence  of  a  great  nation,  and  that  in  its 
future  results  and  influences  will  be  extensive  as  the  civilized 
world. 


Stillwater— Bemut'  Heights. 


135 


The  right  wing  of  the  British  army,  consisting  of  light 
troopsi  kept  along  or  near  the  summit  of  the  ridge  as  they 
advanced  to  the  south,  and  commanded  and  overlooked  the 
plain  beneath,  while  the  heavy  artillery  and  baggage  contin- 
ued by  the  road  that  runs  near  to  and  parallel  with  the  river, 
while  the  Americans  advancing  to  the  north  to  meet  them, 
had  their  right  wing  and  guns  on  the  river  road,  and  their 
left  wing  and  skirmishers  and  riflemen  on  the  heights,  and 
this  was  the  respective  positions  of  the  armies  when  the  onset 
commenced. 

Much  of  the  battle*ground  was  interspersed  with  trees,  of 
which  but  a  few  are  living,  but  there  was  also  some  more 
open  grounds,  and  such  was  the  aspect  of  the  spot  designa- 
ted as  FreemarVsfarm  m  the  dispatches  of  that  day,  and  such 
it  remains,  as  also  does  a  trace  of  the  British  encampment. 
The  road  extends  across  the  farm  from  east  to  west  at  right 
angles  to  the  main  road  north  and  south,  and  just  to  the  east 
of  I  his  intersection  was  the  hottest  of  the  fight,  and  a  few  rods 
south  of  a  blacksmith's-shop  close  to  a  fence,  Gen.  Frazer,  the 
second  in  command,  fell  by  a  rifle  shot  from  one  of  Morgan's 
corps.  The  head  quarters  of  Gen.  Gates  are  seen  hairf  a  mile 
south. 

The  pathetic  scenes  thai  took  place  amid  the  wounded  and 
dying,  and  that  have  been  so  feelingly  and  graphically  de- 
picted by  the  dramatic  and  gentlemanly  penof  Burgoyne,  and 
the  female  tenderness  of  the  Baroness  Reidesdel,  occurred  in 
a  dilapidated  antiquated  dwelling,  painted  red  and  yellow, 
with  the  entrance  and  end  facing  the  river,  it  having  been  re- 
moved from  its  original  position  that  was  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
south-west. 

Nearly  all  the  river  hills  west  of  the  Hudson  from  Bemus' 
Heights  to  Fort  Miller,  twelve  miles,  have  some  remains  of  the 
hasty  ramparts  thrown  up  by  the  contending  armies ;  and 
there  are  also  some  above  and  on  the  east  of  the  river,  that 
may  be  seen  from  the  canal  and  stage  road. 

A  mile  and  half  above  Schuylerville,  the  Battenkill  comes 
in  to  the  Hudson  from  the  east,  its  sources  being  at  the  base 
of  the  Green  Mountains  in  Vermont  twenty  miles  distant,  and 
also  a  portion  from  the  Big  Pond  ia  Argyle;  it  has  a  rapid 
current  and  several  falls,  and  one  three  miles  from  its  mouth 
of  60  feet,  that  in  freshets  is  worth  beholding.  There  is  a 
bridge  over  the  stream  near  its  mouth,  and  one  over  the  Hud- 


' 


// 


i 


136 


\  \ 


Fort  Edward— Baker^i  Falls. 


fion  from  Northumberland  to  Greenwich,  near  the  rapids  or 
Saratoga  Falls,  throe  miles  below  Fort  Miller. 

At  Fort  Miller  ig  a  church,  a  mill,  a  tavern,  store,  and  80 
dwellings,  and  hereabouts  it  was  that  Gen  Burgoyne  pass- 
ed his  troops  over  to  the  west  side  as  he  was  forcing  his  way 
down  to  the  south,  to  reach  New- York  or  Albany. 

At  Fort  Edward,  near  llie  great  bend  of  the  Hudson  as  it 
crosses  over  Glenn's  and  Baker's  Falls,  are  three  locks  on  the 
canal  of  10  feet  each,  and  the  ruins  of  the  fort  built  in  1755, 
by  Gen.  Lyman  and  Johnson,  at  the  old  landing  or  carrying 
place  to  Wood  Creek.  The  walls  were  formerly  thirty  feet 
high,  and  defended  by  cannon,  with  a  deep  fosse  in  front,  and 
in  the  French  war  was  a  post  of  importance  as  the  medium 
and  connecting  link  with  Lake  George,  and  here  Burgoyne 
and  his  army  waited  six  weeks  for  provisions  to  come  on  from 
the  lake  in  his  rear,  and  thus  lost  the  best  part  of  the  season 
for  his  military  operations. 

The  former  seat  of  war  and  watchfulneRS  is  now  changed 
to  a  peaceful  and  pleasant  lin,  fair  and  fertile,  with  100 
dwellings,  a  church,  two  hou  s,  a  tavern,  nine  stores,  three 
mills,  a  distillery,  and  two  breweries. 

The  great  dam  above  the  village  and  ruins  of  the  old  forti- 
fication is  27  feet  high  and  900  feet  across  the  river,  and 
throws  an  ample  supply  of  water  info  the  feeder  of  the 
canal,  besides  forming  a  cascade,  from  its  height  and  width, 
of  considerable  magnificence. 

Below  the  dam  is  an  island  and  two  bridges  of  500  feet 
each.  The  village  is  supplied  with  water  from  a  fine  spring 
on  the  hill  a  quarter  of  a  mile  east,  near  the  fatal  spot 
that  witnessed  the  tragical  death  of  Miss  M'Crea  in  1777,  that 
was  here  murdered  by  the  two  savages  that  had  been  employ- 
ed by  her  lover  to  take  her  to  a  place  of  safety,  and  quarreled 
about  the  promised  reward,  and  in  their  fury  she  fell  a  sac- 
rifice. 

Above  the  dam, the  canal  extends  twenty-one  miles  north- 
east to  Lake  Champlain,  at  Whitehall,  its  summit  level  being 
only  51  feet  above  the  Hudson,  and  30  above  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  and  127  feet  below  Lake  George. 

Baker^s  Falls  commence  at  the  bend  of  the  river  where  it 
winds  around  to  the  south  in  a  deep  ravine  in  the  rock  of 
limestone,  the  descent  being  7t>  feet  in  60  rods,  the  water 
rushing  with  great  fury  in  and  through  numerous  serpen- 
tine channels  and  deep  excavations  that  it  has   bored  and 


,  I 


Sandy  Hill—GlennU  Falli, 


137 


worn  into  the  rock,  but  having  no  perpendicular  fall,  but  a 
variety  of  chutes,  that  are  exceedingly  varied  and  imposing 
at  particular  stages  of  the  water,  as  influenced  by  the  seasons, 
and  may  he  advantageously  viewed  from  a  projecting  rock  on 
the  east  shore  below  the  mills. 

Sandy  Hill,  where  the  rail- road  from  Saratoga  to  Whitehall 
crosses  tiie  Hudson  on  a  viaduct  of  J,  100  feet  long,  is  a 
half  shire  village  of  110  dwellings  on  a  high  sandy  plain 
adjacent  to  Baker's  Falls,  and  is  a  pleasant  and  healthy 
site,  has  a  Presbyterian  and  Episcopal  church  with  cupolas, 
and  two  Congregational,  a  Methodist  and  Catholic,  without} 
there  are  seven  mills,  two  good  hotels,  two  furnaces,  10 
stores.  The  streets  are  arranged  upon  a  triangular  plat, 
having  an  open,  ornamented  and  neat  enclosed  area,  with 
elegant  and  comfortable  houses  and  the  county  buildings, 
the  courts  being  held  alternately  here  and  at  Salem. — 
From  this  place  to  Glenn's  Falls,  three  miles  west,  is  a 
road  on  the  high  bank  of  the  river,  so  level,  beautiful,  and 
pleasant,  that  few  can  exceed  it,  both  villages  being  in  sight. 

Glenn's  Falls  are  next  encountered  ;  the  village  has  130 
dwellings,  two  churches,  the  hotel  and  three  taverns,  eight 
stores  and  groceries,  31  mechanics'  shops,  a  printing-office 
and  paper,  six  lime-kilns,  11  mills,  some  for  sawing  the 
black  and  variegated  marble,  that  is  here  found,  into  slabs, 
and  others  for  lumber  and  shingles  :  the  marble  quarries  are 
extensive,  and  the  price  is  75  cents  the  superficial  foot 
in  New-York.  The  falls  have  a  total  descent  of  70  feet, 
at  first  in  one  angular  mass  of  900  feet  wide  and  five 
feet  fall,  the  whole  width  of  the  river,  that,  when  in  full 
flood,  descends  with  a  grandeur,  tumult,  and  foaming  rage, 
that  excites  awe  and  admiration  in  the  beholder,  as  it  is  con^ 
templated  from  the  bridge  in  passing;  at  a  low  stage  of  the 
water  the  scene  is  remarkably  changed,  and  could  hardly  be 
recognized  as  It  plunges  into  the  crevices,  caves  and  sinuosi^ 
ties  of  the  dark  and  irregularly  formed  rock,  and  again  issues 
forth  in  jets  and  boiling  or  whirling  forms,  or  glides  with  ra- 
pidity over  slopes  worn  to  a  polished  surface  by  the  abrasion 
of  the  waters.  The  general  face  and  aspect  of  the  fall  is  to  the 
east,  and  after  it  shoots  under  the  bridge  and  partly  through 
caves  and  water-worn  excavations  under  the  traveler's  feet, 
and  in  seams  of  the  horizontal  secondary  limestone,  well 
worth  exploration  as  the  source  and  scene  of  legends  and 
frightful  Indian  tales,  the  water  extricates  itself  from  its  laby- 

12* 


*    .     '■! 


I  ■■  .: 


•  »'■ 


•^\f 


138 


Jessup^i  and  Hadley^i  Fallt. 


riathine  concCKlments  in  the  dark  and  masgivo  rocks,  and  ii 
received  into  the  bed  of  the  river  below,  under  the  frowning 
face  of  impending  towering-  precipices,  and  escapes  over  a 
series  of  rapidathat  has  caused  a  wide,  vast,  and  deep  gorge 
in  the  rocky  hills  almost  as  regular  as  an  artificial  cut  in  the 
solid  rock,  and  exposing  the  stratification  to  the  easy  examina- 
tion of  the  geologist,  and  the  trilobites  and  organic  remains 
are  seen  in  perfection. 

A  feeder  and  a  branch  canal  seven  miles  long,  extends  from 
the  Hudson  two  miles  above  Glenn's,  where  is  a  dam  across 
the  Hudson  of  12  feet  high  and  770  feet  long,  that  fills 
the  canal  as  it  passes  through  Glennsville  and  Sandy  Hill, 
and  feeds  the  Champlain  Canal,  that  it  enters  in  Kingsbury, 
two  miles  above  Fort  Edward,  where  there  are  thirteen  locks. 

Jessup^s and  Hadley^s  Fallsare  the  next  distinguished  objects 
to  attract  the  attention  of  the  traveler  devoted  to  the  admira- 
tion of  the  picturesque  and  beautiful  in  nature.  The  first  is 
ten  miles  beyond  Glenns  Falls,  and  the  second  occurs  within 
the  next  five  miles,  and  may  be  conveniently  examined  by 
starting  in  the  morning  either  from  Sandy  Hill  or  Saratoga, 
and  returning  tho  same  day,  with  ample  time  to  spend  a  few 
hours  at  either  spot.  As  the  country  in  that  direction  is  rather 
wild  and  unsettled,  it  may  be  advisable  to  make  provision  for 
a  rural  (He  champ^tre  to  enliven  the  party. 

The  first  fall  exhibits  the  entire  volume  of  the  Hudson  in 
one  grand  cataract  of  100  feet ;  the  next  it  is  seen  leap- 
ing through  the  rocky  gates  of  the  mountains,  that  appear 
to  have  been  cloven  to  admit  its  passage ;  and  to  a  person 
viewing  it  from  below,  it  appears  to  come  bounding  down  the 
jagged,  irregular,  gigantic  barriers  with  irrepressible  fury,  and 
a  magnificence  and  variety  endless,  bewitching,  and  inde- 
scribable. 

The  road  from  Luzerne  or  Glenn's  Falls  to  Lake  George  is 
a  yellow  pine  plain,  soil  sandy,  rather  barren,  and  destitute  of 
interest  until  we  approach  within  three  miles  of  the  head  of 
the  lake,  before  overtopping  the  rising  ground  seen  in  front, 
where  the  road  passes  by  a  crater-like  or  bowl-shaped  pond 
on  the  east,  in  close  proximity,  deep,  dark,  and  dismal,  its 
unruffled  surface  covered  with  the  pond-lily,  and  its  depths 
lined  with  the  bones  of  tho  soldiers  that  perished  in  the  con- 
flicts on  its  borders,  and  that  were  here  thrown  in,  and  ever 
since  called  the  Bloody  Pond. 

In  proceeding  from  Fort  Edward  to  Lakes  George  and  Cham- 


Lake  George, 


139 


plain,  we  pais  in  review  ground  consecrated  in  history,  not 
only  by  the  war  of  our  independence  and  the  Americun  revo- 
lution, but  also  in  those  murderous  affairs  and  sanguinary 
conflicts  of  previous  years,  when  the  hordes  of  French  troops 
issuing  from  Canada,  aided  by  infuriate  savage  demons,  car- 
ried terror  and  destruction  along  the  whole  northern  frontiers. 

It  is  our  purpose  to  describe  lirst  the  events  and  the  scene- 
ry connected  with  Lake  George  and  Ticonderoga.  and  then 
to  give  the  canal  and  rail-road  route  from  Sandy  Hill  to 
Whitehall,  and  down  the  lake  to  intersect  the  other  route,  and 
pass  along  its  surface  and  by  its  shores  to  Canada. 

The  traveler,  while  musing  on  the  scenes  that  have  been 
enacted  on  this  border  within  eighty  years  past,  amid  the 
gloomy  forest  through  which  he  proceeds  for  two  or  three 
miles,  arrives  at  the  crown  of  a  loflg  and  tedious  ascent, 
through  the  vista  of  mountains  that  have  accompanied  hia 
progress  for  several  miles ;  those  on  the  east  being  elevated, 
and  in  some  places  denuded  of  vegetation  ;  those  on  the  west 
being  more  depressed,  but  clothed  with  the  remains  of  the 
native  forest ;  when  at  the  precise  and  most  advantageous 
pinnacle  the  curtain  of  the  forest  is  withdrawn,  and  the  clear- 
ed  spot  unfoldfl  to  the  astonished  and  enraptured  gaze  of  the 
tourist  the  full  and  glorious  scene. 

The  Lake  is  expanded  beneath  his  view  to  more  than  half 
its  extent,  with  a  beauty  and  lustre  emanating  from  its 
surface  of  a  transparent  cerulean  hue  that  fills  the  mind  with 
rapture  ;  the  first  glance  and  the  deep  impression  can  never 
be  obliterated  from  the  imagination  of  the  ardent  and  sensitive 
traveler;  the  splendid  frame-work  of  mountains  that  enclo- 
ses the  lake  and  its  beautiful  islands,  and  that  forms  a  back 
ground  of  extreme  beauty  and  finished  excellence,  the  noble 
promontory  that  it  puts  forth  on  the  north,  of  1,5()0  feet  high, 
and  seen  at  14  miles  distance,  with  the  softened  hue  that 
harmonizes  with  the  receding  perspective,  terminated  on 
each  side  by  the  deep  bays  or  prongs  that  gird,  on  the  north- 
west and  north-east  in  diverging  lines,  the  base  of  this  noble 
headland  or  promontory,  is  the  complete  realization  of  eager 
expectations  of  all  that  is  exquisite  in  lake  scenery. 

Lake  George,  or  Sacrament,  as  it  was  termed  by  the  French, 
from  the  unrivalled  and  admirable  clearness  and  purity  of  its 
waters,  that  induced  them  to  use  it  for  religious  purposes, 
baptism,  he.  is  34  miles  long  and  from  one  to  four  broad, 
(average  perhaps  about  two)  for  20  milee,  is,  more  or  less, 


if 


I 


SN 


II    .. 


140 


Caldwell-'Natural  Bridge, 


from  the  promontory  referred  to,  ornamented  with  an  archi« 
pelago  of  islands  of  the  most  fanciful,  varied,  and  lovely 
forms,  that  loaves  no  taste  ungratified. 

Caldwell — the  village  at  the  head  of  the  lake  at  its  south- 
west corner,  with  its  spacious  hotel,  capable  of  receiving  100  or 
more  tourists ;  has  about  40  dwellings  and  500  inhabitants, 
the  county  buildings,  clerk's  office,  jail  and  court  house. 

A  road  from  the  south  passes  through  Caldwell  to  the 
north.-west,  and  in  six  miles  crosses  the  Hudson  River,  and 
continues  on  ten  miles  to  Chester,  a  village  of  150  dwell- 
ings  and  two  churches,  with  mills,  and  on  the  outlet  of 
Friend's  Lake  two  miles  long ;  from  this  a  road  branches  off 
north-west  to  Ogdensburgh,  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  an- 
other north  past  Scroon  Lake,  and  on  the  west  side  of  Lake 
Champlain  to  Plattsburgh,  and  is  the  nearest  and  best  land 
route  to  Montreal  and  Quebec,  and  att/aets  considerable 
travel  and  business  in  this  direction. 

Scroon  Lake  is  eight  miles  long  north-east  to  south-west, 
and  from  half  to  two  and  a  half  miles  wide,  embosomed  in 
lofty  mountains.  Brant  or  Loon  Lake  is  five  miles  long,  one 
wide,  and  is  south-east  of  Scroon  Lake. 

The  Natural  Bridge,  a  mile  or  two  above  the  outlet  of 
Scroon  Lake,  maybe  visited  at  the  same  time,  with  the  wild 
roniaitic  shores  of  the  various  lakes  in  its  vicinity.  A  stream, 
namou  Trout  Creek,  a  few  rods  above  the  bridge,  tumbles 
over  a  precipice  into  an  excavation  ;  there  a  branch  rtsns  east 
and  forms  divided  channels,  one  being  under  an  arr.h  of  gran- 
ite 40  feet  high  and  80  feet  wide,  that  may  be  followed  160 
feet,  the  other  and  principal  one,  more  dilBcult  of  explora- 
tion, opens  into  dark  and  cavernous  recesses,  with  deep 
pools  of  water,  and  at  250  feet  from  its  beginning  the  united 
currents  emerge  to  light  below  a  pre.-'ipice  of  56  feet,  and 
an  arcJi  of  five  feet  high  and  ten  wide, 

Jn  Vlhft  to  1759,  when  the  American  Colonies  were  involv- 
ed in  fhe  contest  between  Great  Britain  and  France,  the  thea- 
tre of  operations  shone  forth  on  Lake  George,  that  then  exhi- 
bited aimaments  and  a  more  glittering  array  of  foreign  troops 
than  had  ever  before  occurred,  or  it  is  destined  ever  again  to 
witness ;  and  that  the  sweet  repose  that  now  prevails  on  this 
lake  should  ever  have  been  disturbed  by  the  din,  tumult  and 
complicated  horrors  of  a  war  growing  out  of  the  hatred,  feuds 
and  jealousies  of  distant  nations,  that  sent  their  warriors  hith- 
er to  enact  those  feats  of  arms,  and  fulfill  the  bloody,  cruel 


Battles  near  Lake  George. 


141 


mandates  of  distant  rulers  and  potentates,  appears  now  to 
have  been  as  unnatural  as  it  was  surprising. 

The  first  conflicts  took  place  south  of  the  head  of  Lake 
George,  where  a  body  of  English  and  colonial  troops  had 
been  assembled  in  September,  1755,  under  the  command  of 
Gen.  afterwards  Sir  William  Johnson,  a  man  that  had  a  siHiri- 
ous,  unfounded  reputation,  and  was  saved  from  defeat  and 
disgrace  by  the  brave  Gen.  Lyman,  of  Massachusetts,  the 
second  in  command. 

Johnson  lay  carelessly  encamped,  but  unfortified,  in  open 
field  on  the  hills  near  the  site  of  Fort  M'Henry,  a  little  south 
of  the  present  village  of  Calf* ''ell ;  when   Gen.  the  Baron 
Dieskau,  who  had  recently  anJtred  from  France,  advanced 
from  Montreal  up  Lake  Champlain,  passed  Fort  Frederic,  or 
Crown  Point,  and  Ticonderoga,  and  boldly  up  to  Skenesboro, 
now  Whitehall,  and  landed,  and  marched  towards  Fort  Ed- 
ward, then  called  Fort  Lyman,  on  the  Hudson,  then  in  an  in- 
cumplele  state  and  without  cannon,  as  he  had  been  truly 
informed  by  one  of  his  scouts ;  but  after  proceeding  a  few 
miles  and  near  Fort  Anne,  he  suddenly  altered  his  plan,  and 
directed  his  column  towards  Lake  George  to  surprise  John- 
son and  his  army,  and  was  only  foiled  in  this  manoeuvre  by 
a  timely  and  chance  discovery  of  his  change  of  the  line  of 
march  that  reached  Johnson,  who  up  to  this  hour  had  not 
been  aware  of  the  vicinity  of  an  enemy  under  such  a  gallant 
and  chivalric  commander,  and  then  began  in  great  haste  and 
terror  to  throw  up  entrenchments  around  his  camp,  that  was 
injudiciously  placed  too  low,  and  overlooked  and  commanded 
by  neighboring  eminence^     he  also  dispatched  1,200  troops 
under  Col.  Eohraim  Williams,  to  advance  and  meet  Dieskau 
and  his  forces,  who  being  aware  by  his  spies  of  Williams* 
approach,   arranged  his  men  on  both  sides  of  the  road  in  a 
crescent  form,  extending  his  wings  into  the  woods  so  as  to 
enclose  his  unsuspecting  opponents. 

The  Americans  struck  at  the  centre  of  the  French  line  with 
unflinching  boldness  and  intrepidity,  but  they  outflanked  and 
closed  in  upon  \/iHiams^  detachment,  and  poured  in  a  mur- 
derous fire  both  ou  his  front  and  rear  at  the  same  moment, 
that  killed  Col.  Williams  and  Hendri^^^k  the  brave  Mohawk 
Indian  chieftain.'^     The  detachment,  after  the  death  ofWil- 

*  Hendrick  was  shot  in  tlieback,to  liis  exceeding  mortificaiion  and 
chagrin,  it  being  considered  dishonorable  to  be  touched  in  tl»#'rear;  he 
WM  65  years  of  age,  very  corpulent  and  gray  beaded;  l»e  had  a  voice  of 


M 


«  f 


142 


Battles  near  Lake  George. 


liams,  was  drawn  off  to  the  main  body  by  Col.  Whiting  in  good 
order,  followed  by  the  French  and  Indians  to  the  lines  ol 
Johnson's  encampment,  where  the  troops  recovered  from  their 
panic,  rallie  '  vithin  the  hasty  entrenchments,  and  the  battle 
commence  inew,  and  lasted  several  hours,  when  the  French 
and  Indians  were  driven  in  their  turn  and  pursued  and  scat- 
tered, jnd  Diesknu  badly  wounded  and  taken  prisoner,  and 
the  'aggage  and  ammunition  captured.  This  action  was  in 
the  environs  of  the  Bloody  Pond  before  alluded  to,  into  which 
the  dead  bodies  were  thrown — 700  French  and  300  English. 

In  1757,  the  French  army  of  8000  men  under  the  famous 
Gen.  Montcalm,  with  thousands  of  Indians,  made  a  formida- 
ble invasion  up  Lake  Champlain,  and  appeared  before  Fort 
Wm.  Henry,  and  demanded  its  surrender  from  Col.  Monroe, 
and  was  refused,  and  began  the  siege  that  lasted  six  days, 
the  Colonel  expecting  to  be  momently  relieved  by  Gen. Webb, 
with  4,000  men  at  Fort  Edward,  only  fifteen  miles  distant, 
but  he  not  daring  to  appear.  Col.  Monroe,  after  a  brave  re- 
sistance, was  forced  to  capitulate  under  honorable  stipula- 
tions, that  included  protection  from  savage  fury  ;  but  this  was 
not  observed,  for  out  of  the  garrison  of  3,000,  1,500  were 
massacred  in  cold  blood  on  the  9th  of  August.  The  fort  was 
soon  after  demolished  by  the  French,  as  they  had  strong 
works  existing  at  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point. 

In  1768,  it  being  desirous  to  dislodge  the  French  from  their 
strong  holds  at  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point,  the  large  force 
of  10,000  provincials  and  7,000  regular  troops  was  again 
concentrated  at  the  head  of  Lake  George,  under  the  command 
of  General  Abercrombie,  and  on  the  5th  July,  leaving  only  a 
guard,  this  formidable  force  was  embarked  in  over  a  thousand 
boats,  in  one  of  those  fine  summer  days  when  the  genial  air 
and  the  placid  lake  conspired  to  aid  the  gorgeous  military 
effect  of  this  grand  pageant ;  the  boats  were  arranged  in  lines 
and  divisions  in  precise  order ;  the  lion  and  the  cross,  the 
"  meteor  flag  of  England,"  was  triumphantly  exhibited  to  the 
confident,  well-commanded  army;  and  all  being  arranged, 
the  signal  was  given — they  advanced  uniformly  to  the  sound 
of  the  finest  military  music,  that  the  re-echoing  \a)\%  returned 
with  admirable  effect  from  the  glens  and  foresis^  as  if  the 
thick  woods  were  peopled  with  unseen  spirits,  startled  and 

immense  power  and  volume,  that  when  he  harangued  his  people,  could  be 
heard  amid  the  hills  for  miles, 


Battle  at  Ticonderoga. 


143 


dAVighted  from  their  deep,  romantic,  and  inaccessible  recess- 
es, at  the  unwonted  and  strange  sights  and  sounds  that 
astounded  them.  This  pomp  and  splendor  continued  for  se- 
veral hours,  during  the  progress  down  the  lake,  giving  the 
army  ample  time  to  look  around  upon  the  splendid  panorama 
that  environed  them,  and  at  the  approaching  place  of  de- 
barkation, (at  the  present  landing-place,)  and  at  the  lurking 
foes  they  should  soon  have  to  encounter. 

They  landed  and  were  arranged  in  four  columns,  and  ad- 
vanced under  incompetent  guides  through  crooked  roads  to 
the  north-east,  and  soon  fell  into  some  disorder,  that  was  in- 
creased by  meeting  the  pickets  and  out-posts  of  the  foe  that 
had  retreated  on  the  first  landing  of  the  army,  but  seeing  the 
confusion  that  now  prevailed  in  the  columns,  they  rallied,  and 
at  their  first  fire  Lord  Howe,*  the  second  in  command,  fell ; 
the  war-whoop  began,  and  after  a  warm  skirmish,  in  which 
300  of  the  (oG  were  killed,  and  143  taken  prisoners,  with 
trifling  loss  on  the  English  side,  the  columns  retired  to 
the  landing. 

Taking  the  precaution  the  next  day  to  send  a  force  to  re- 
connoitre and  secure  the  mill  at  the  outlet  of  Lake  George, 
and  to  view  the  enemy  and  works  situated  on  a  peninsula, 
with  the  lake  and  outlet  nearly  environing  it,  and  an  abattis 
in  part  to  obstruct  the  crossing  of  the  isthmus,  the  army  ad- 
vanced heedlessly  to  the  attack,  without  attempting  to  can- 
nonade the  works,  as  the  abattis  was  held  in  too  much  con- 
tempt ;  but  on  their  near  approach,  and  complete  exposure 
to  the  fire  of  the  foe,  themselves  concealed  behind  the  abattis 
in  perfect  security,  and  taking  unerring  deliberate  aim  on 
their  assailants,  the  havoc  was  so  great  that  the  English  and 
colonial  forces  gave  it  up  in  despair,  after  a  conflict  and 
struggle  of  four  hours  ;  during  which  the  brave  Highlanders 
three  times  drove  the  French  from  a  portion  of  the  abattis, 
but  were  not  supported. 

The  loss  of  the  English  in  this  failure  was  near  2,000  men  ; 
that  of  the  French,  three  or  four  officers  and  a  few  privates. 
The  latter  did  not  at  first  intend  to  make  but  a  how  of  re- 
sistance; but  seeing  the  English  so  daring,  and  exposed  to 
their  mercy,  they  tried  to  thin  their  ranks,  and  succeeded. 

The  English  commander  ordered  a  retreat,  though  he  had 
14,000  men  unharmed,  and  the  French  had  only  3,000 ;  thus 
voluntarily  adding  disgrace  to  defeat. 

*  The  father  of  the  Lord  Howe  that  commanded  here  in  the  American 
revolution. 


t'5, 


f  (5 


.  ■"» 


1)  '»i 


fh) 


M     :  .'fi 


<  I 


Hi 


Lake  George^ 


In  July,  1759,  another  British  armament  of  similar  forcer^ 
under  General  Amherst,  made  its  appearance  on  Lake 
George ;  and  at  its  approach  the  positions  of  Ticonderoga 
and  Crovrn  Point  were  abandoned  by  the  French  as  untena- 
ble, as  they  doubtless  were,  as  more  recent  events  proved, 
and  they  abandoned  them  for  ever. 

In  1777,  when  Ticonderoga  ami  Crown  Point  were  occu- 
pied by  the  Americana  for  the  last  time,  as  important  military 
posts,  they  abandoned  them  when  General  Burgoyne  ap- 
proached; and  since  the  revolutionary  war,  and  our  fromtier 
has  been  so  much  extended  to  the  north,  they  are  looked 
upon  as  almost  the  only  relics  and  ruins  of  any  note  in  this 
State  that  are  invested  with  the  garb  of  a  moderate  antiquity 
and  veneration. 

Fort  George,  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  still  presents  its  out- 
line and  circular  massy  wall,  and  ramparts  of  stone  20  feet 
high,  and  in  good  condition,  a  short  distance  east  from  those 
of  Fort  William  Henry,  and  one-fourth  mile  back  from  the 
strand  ;  and  here  is  also  the  best  view  of  the  widest  part 
of  the  lake,  and  of  the  north-west  bay,  and  of  the  ranges  of 
mountains  for  20  miles,  and  of  several  of  the  largest  islands, 
and  of  the  head  promontory  before  alluded  to,  and  of  the 
shelving  rock  that  intrudes  from  the  east  far  into  the  lake, 
and  beyond  which  the  eastern  arm  of  the  lake  turns  to 
the  right. 

The  passage  across  the  lake  by  steam-boat  fi'om  Caldwell, 
36  miles  north,  fare  about  $2,  is  made  daily,  in  summer,  to 
gratify  tourists  and  travelers  ;  that  at  Ticonderoga  can  inter- 
sect the  boat  that  touches  there  daily,  and  continue  on  up  or 
down  the  lower  lake.  Those  wishing  to  return  to  CaldwelJ 
the  same  day,  can  do  it  by  the  return  of  the  boat,  but  stran- 
gers usually  devote  the  remainder  of  the  day  to  Ticonderoga, 
three  miles  beyond  the  landing,  and  a  very  agreeable  walk 
along  the  outlet  and  falls  of  Lake  George,  estimated  at  a 
descent  of  150  to  300  feet ;  the  surface  of  Lake  George  is  243 
feet  above  tide,  the  greatest  depth  60  fathoms ;  its  sources, 
probably,  from  the  deepest,  coldest,  and  purest  iiprings,  as  k 
has  no  rivers  of  any  consequence  running  into  it. 

The  lake  is  froaeu  about  25lh  December,  and  remain* 
closed  usually  three  and  a  half  or  four  months,  when,  withom 
sinking,  a^  it  does  in  Lake  Champlain,  the  ice  gradually  dis- 
solves. There  is  no  current,  except  near  the  outlet,  and  the 
shores  being  rocky  or  gravelly,  the  water  is  pure  and  potable, 


Emcurtion  on  LaJf  George* 


146 


Rnd  hat  no  lime;  the  borders  are  the  (seat  of  health,  and  fever 
and  ague  is  a  stranger.  The  melting  of  the  snow  in  spring  only 
raises  the  lake  one  or  two  feet.  The  prevalent  winds  are  N.  E. 
and  S.  W.  There  are  more  settlements  on  the  west  than 
on  the  east  side  of  the  lake  on  the  slopes,  from  a  few  roda 
to  a  mile  wide,  reaching  up  the  mountain,  that  will,  some 
future  day,  be  decked  out  all  in  terraces  and  villas,  for  it  is  im- 
possible that  such  charming  sites  should  be  always  neglected. 
Deer  and  bears  still  abound  on  the  mountains,  and  the 
depths  of  the  lake  with  the  largest  and  finest  trout,  bass,  and 
perch,  and  the  lofty  clifTi  of  the  hills  and  crags  with  eagles 
and  rattlesnakes;  and  for  these  Mount  Prospect  has  an  espe- 
cial bad  name,  that  is  to  be  regretted,  as  it  is  said  to  command 
a  capital  view  of  the  lake,  and  between  the  dread  of  one  and 
the  love  of  the  other,  '<  de  gustibus  non  est  disputandem. 


>» 


Excursion  on   liiike   Geor|s:e. 

Every  traveler  in  making  an  excursion  on  this  lake,  if  he 
is  favored  with  a  proportion  of  suitable  weather,  clear  and 
cloudy,  fair  and  foul,  to  see  tlte  changes  of  the  scene,  the 
lights  and  shades,  and  hear  the  efiect  of  echos  from  a  heavy 
thunder*slorm  reverberated  from  the  amphitheatre  of  moun- 
tains, will  enroll  it  in  the  calendar  of  his  Uie  as  one  of  the 
roost  memorable  epochs  of  his  existence. 

On  putting  out  from  the  village  on  the  broad  surface  of  the 
pellucid  crystal  waters  of  the  lake,  the  enjoyment  begins  by 
the  contemplation  of  the  surrounding  panorama,  the  noble 
mountains  on  the  east,  with  their  deep  shadows  reflected  in 
tbf  water-mirror  at  their  base,  the  graceful  slopes  on  the 
ymit,  and  the  border  on  the  south,  with  the  acclivity  covered 
'wth  a  fine  green  sward,  interspersed  with  groups  of  forest- 
Ttjca,  and  a  haadsorae  sprinkling  of  evergreens.  The  time- 
vorn  battlements  of  Forts  George  and  William  Henry,  half 
shrouded  in  nioas  and  shrubbery,  are  invested  with  a  hallowed 
nterest  from  the  associations  of  the  stirring  events  of  by-gone 
days  of  war  and  chivalry  that  those  walls  and  the  pinnacles 
of  the  adjacent  mountains  have  witnessed. 

The  islands  and  shores  soon  come  in  for  a  large  share  of 
the  tourist's  admirRtiou.  The  beauty,  variety,  and  grace  of 
the  curves  of  the  Hnely  wooded  margin  of  the  lake,  with 
foresti  and  groves  rising  at  various  angles,  or  overibadowing 

13 


J  i 


146 


Twelte  Mite  Uland. 


1/ 


and  forming  natural  arbors  of  the  many  recesses  and  inden^ 
tations  that  are  presented  in  endless  variety  on  both  shores  i 
the  deep  umbrageous  twilight  effect  of  some  masses  of  trees 
and  underwood,  is  contrasted  with  the  more  open  and  gay 
lawns  and  groves,  that  appear  prepared  for  the  rural  fete  or 
merry  dance.  The  smooth  slopes  and  cheerful  borders,  that 
are  already  partially  occupied  by  the  primitive  settlers,  or 
their  immediate  descendants,  and  that  have  made  themselves 
rudely  comfortable  and  happy  in  the  rough  log-hul  or  more 
finished  tenement,  extend  for  miles,  and  are  followed  by  pro- 
montories encroaching  boldly  into  the  lake,  and  forbidding 
access  to  the  husbandman.  The  points  are  varied,  acute,  and 
angular,  gliding  into  rounded  and  circular,  followed  by  fretted 
and  scolloped  margins,  or  a  beach  of  bright  yellow,  or  golden, 
or  light-colored  sand,  displaying  the  purity  and  transparency 
of  the  waters,  and  tempting  the  feet  of  the  nymph  to  tread  it» 
unsullied  margin,  or  to  bathe  in  its  soft,  and  shining,  or  glis> 
tening  waters. 

The  spurs,  or  angles  of  the  mountains,  at  times  intrude  far 
out  in  the  lake,  and  are  covered  with  the  native  forest ;  and 
at  others  are  but  long  narrow  ridges  stretching  horizontally, 
or  with  a  graceful  declination  to  meet  the  surface  of  the  wa- 
ters ;  or  they  assume  the  appearance  of  islands  tn  the  loom< 
ing  up  of  the  distant  perspective. 

After  continuing  on  for  ten  miles,  a  bare  spot,  denuded  of 
its  forest  and  shrubbery,  is  observed,  where  the  hunters  are  in 
the  habit,  annually,  of  setting  fire  to  the  last  year's  dry  grass, 
to  admit  of  the  new  growth  of  the  spring  to  come  forth,  and 
tempt  the  deer  from  their  haunts,  that  soon  after  are  seen  to 
frequent  it  in  herds,  when  the  noisy  yelping  of  the  hounds, 
and  the  sharp  crack  of  the  rifles,  are  heard  echoing  and  faintly 
responding  from  amid  the  distant  hills.  These  fires  sometimes 
range  uncontrolled  in  the  forest,  and  have  a  sad  and  destruc- 
tive influence  on  the  landscape,  but  at  night  the  effect  of  one 
of  these  conflagrations  is  truly  sublime. 

Twelve  Mile  Island,  so  called  from  its  computed  distance 
from  the  head  of  the  lake,  is  35  feet  in  elevation,  contains 
over  20  acres,  and  is  very  near  the  centre  of  the  lake,  and  of 
a  circular  form,  and  only  requires  to  be  preserved  in  all  its 
pristine  beauty. 

Beyond  this  round  island,  the  lake  in  one  mile  divides  into 
two  prongs,  that  to  the  left  being  the  north-west  bay,  six  milea 
long,  and  the  other  the  north«east  bay  leading  to  the  outlet 


Fairy  Group  of  Idandt. 


147 


nnd  l«nt\ing;  between  the  iwopronp^s  rises  the  noble  head- 
land or  promontory  of  Tongue  Mountnxn  to  a  height  of  1,400 
feet,  that  abuts  boldly  forth,  and  loids  it  over  the  opposite 
heights,  and  looks  down  upon  the  lake  that  at  its  base  has  a 
depth  of  several  hundred  leet,  and  upon  \ne  clustering  islands 
that  here  begin  and  form  the  narrows,  f>r  six  or  seven  miles. 
The  mountain  can  be  ascended  fiom  the  rear,  but  at  great 
risk  of  reptiles  and  bein^  bewildered  m  the  forest;  but  the 
view  from  the  summit  u  surpassingly  beautiful. 

The  Fairy  Group  of  Islands  now  thicken  as  we  proceed, 
and  assume  intinite  variety  in  shape  and  feature;  some  being 
in  groups,  ortamilies,  of  five  to  twenty  or  thirty,  or  twin- like 
or  in  solitary  beauties,  standing  out  for  admiration,  or  more 
coyly  retiring  from  the  public  gaze,  and  requiring  to  be  sought 
out  from  the  conceal ttients  of  the  labyrinth,  ever  changing, 
ever  new,  to  the  enchanted  beholder,  that  delights  to  repeat 
hisesplorations  as  he  discovers  new  beauties  at  every  repeti- 
tion of  his  visit  as  he  lingers  among  these  embowered  Borro- 
mean  isles. 

There  are  such  an  infinity  of  forms  of  beauty  in  their  figure 
and  dimensions,  that  nature  appears,  as  it  is  in  truth,  inex- 
haustible in  resources;  some  are  mere  islets  or  naked  rocks, 
in  contrast  with  tufted  and  brilliant  verdant  spots,  of  a  few 
feet  to  a  furlong  or  a  mile  in  length  ;  the  vegetation  of  some 
is  scanty,  but  in  most  it  is  perfect ;  some  have  but  a  tree  or 
two,  or  are  decorated  with  a  feathery  group,  inclining  like  the 
princes  gracefully  towards  the  surrounding  margin  ;  some  are 
dense  with  forest  or  shrubbery,  others  admit  of  winding  paths 
beneath  overtopping  trees,  shaded  from  the  noon-day  sun,  and 
free  from  undergrowth;  others,  as  the  boat  insinuates  and 
glides  too  rapidly  past  long  and  narrow  islands,  presents,  for 
a  moment,  apertures  that  disclose  the  near  or  more  distant 
mountains,  or  a  glimpse  of  sky,  or  of  objects  and  forms  beau- 
tiful, evanescent,  and  magically  changing  as  they  are  ap- 
proached but  to  bo  admired  and  lost  in  the  rapid  transition. 

The  pine,  with  its  tall  trunk  peering  above  all  competitors, 
waving  loftily  and  nobly  in  the  sky,  occupies  many  such 
positions ;  while  on  other  islands  the  maple,  the  beech,  or  th* 
oak,  in  liveliest  verdure,  and  in  the  wild  luxuriance  of  native 
vigor  have  uncontrolled  dominion,  or  are  seen  in  various  stages 
4>f  decay,  or  scathed  and  splintered  by  lightning.  The  whoU 
scene  is  doubly  enhanced  by  the  unruffled  mirror  that  inveru 
the  forms  above,  of  islands,  trees,  rocks,  and  winding  shores 


■m 


'm^ 


m 


•Wi 


;f 't? 


^<iC' 


■^■^ 


I'ty 


r* 


>■ 


148 


Anihony'i  Note, 


in  the  sky-reflected  arch  beneath,  depicted  with  the  truth  and 
coloring  of  nature. 

If  the  admeasurement  is  correct.  Black  Mountain  that  is  on 
the  east,  eighteen  miles  from  Caldwell,  is  the  highest  crest  of 
any  of  the  range  bordering  the  lake,  being  2,200  feet  high,  and 
in  front  of  it  on  the  west,  is  the  halfway  house  or  island ;  and 
here  the  traveler  will  behold,  in  the  next  few  miles,  the 
choicest  lake  scenery. 

The  mountain  has  a  serrated  waving  outline  of  much  gran- 
deur, and  is  densely  clothed  with  evergreens,  pines,  and  firs. 

On  a  projection  from  the  west  shore,  24  miles  from  the 
head  of  the  lake,  is  a  prominent  point  named  from  a  party  of 
Ensriish  h<«vin?  had  a  conflict  with  the  Indians  on  that  day, 
Sabbiil/i-day  Point.  The  small  inland,  called  the  Scotch  Bon- 
net,  is  seen  in  three  miles ;  and  in  three  miles  more  a  cluster 
of  dwellings  and  mills,  known  as  Hague,  on  the  west  shore, 
and  here  the  lake  attains  its  utmost  width,  said  to  be  4  miles. 

Three  miles  further  the  traveler  will  notice  a  rock  of  200 
feet  hiifh,  descending  to  the  lake  at  an  angle  of  25  degrees, 
and  decidedly  more  easy  of  descent  than  ascent ;  and  the  tra> 
diiion  is,  ihat  in  the  war  of  1755  to  9,  Major  RogerSy  a  parti, 
zan  officer,  equal  to  Putnam  in  intrepidity  and  hatred  to  tha 
Indians,  and  being  their  most  vindictive  enemy  and  persecu- 
tor, found  himself,  when  pursued  and  nearly  in  their  grasp,  on 
the  verge  of  this  inclined  plane  at  the  top  of  the  mountain, 
down  which  (it  being  probably  covered  with  snow,  as  he  had 
his  snow-shoes  on,  and  had  no  alternative)  he  slid,  without 
flinching,  just  as  his  pursuers  wore  upon  him,  and  left  them 
standing  aghast  and  shrinking  from  following  his  nimble 
footsteps,  and  beholding  with  amazement  his  charmed  life,  as 
he  appeared  in  safety  at  the  base  of  the  precipice,  down 
which  they  dared  not  follow. 

Anlhony^s  Nose,  one  of  those  singular  nicknames,  and  such 
a  noted  and  peculiar  prominence  on  the  Mohawk,  and  on  the 
profile  of  a  jutting  rock  and  mountain  in  the  Highlands  of  the 
Hudson,  is  also  found  here  in  opposite  face  to  the  Rogers* 
Slide ;  the  precipices  are  50  to  100  feet  in  elevation,  and  the 
shores  contracted  arnid  gigantic  masses  of  reck.  Two  miles 
from  the  above  is  an  island  where  the  prisoners  that  were 
taken  from  the  French  were  put  upon  the  limits,  and  west  of 
the  island  is  the  point  where  the  English  army  under  Lord 
Howe,  consisting  «f  16,000  men,  were  landed  and  march8dt«> 
th«  attack  of  Ticonderoga,  as  mentioned. 


Tieonderoga, 


149 


A  huge  rock  fell  from  the  precipice  at  Anthony^s  Nose,  a 
few  years  since,  and  plunging  into  the  lake,  came  very  near 
deoiolishing  a  usiierinan  and  linking  a  canoe  by  the  surge 
it  created. 

On  a  rock  opposite  to  this  arc  said  to  be  a  series  of  Indian 
mortars  wrought  in  the  solid  stone,  for  pounding  their  corn. 
Some  of  them  are  capable  of  containing  half  a  barrel,  and 
others  of  smaller  size,  smooth  and  circular. 

The  water  of  the  lake  that  has,  up  to  this  point,  been  of  an 
emerald  green,  now  changes  to  a  muddy  color,  from  the  dif^ 
ference  in  bottom,  that  is  here  clay  instead  of  rock  as  above ; 
and  in  one  mile  we  are  at  the  termination  ofour  Excursion  mi 
Lake  George^  or  Horricon,  as  the  Indian  name  is  transmitted. 
Three  miles  more  by  the  rough  and  winding  romantic  r  )ad 
before  alluded  to,  along  the  gorge  that  contains  the  outlet  of 
the  lake  we  have  traversed,  brings  the  traveler  in  sight  of 
Lake  Champlain,  and  to  the  walls  of  old  Ticonderoga, 

The  change  in  scenery  when  we  descend  to  the  lake  below, 
is  as  obvious  as  that  of  the  water.  There  are  three  falls  in  the 
outlet  of  the  upper  lake  ;  the  lowest  one  being  100  feet,  with 
a  rapid  at  the  bottom,  and  in  spring  they  exhibit  much  mag- 
nificence; at  other  times  they  are  small  but  pleasing  cascades. 
The  bottom  of  the  upper  is  about  on  a  level  vi'ith  the  surface  of 
the  lower  lake.  By  following  up  the  creek  that  comes  in  from 
the  west  near  where  the  steamer  is  left,  we  come  to  a  chain 
of  small  lakes  near  lake  Pharaoh,  that  falls  into  Swan  Lake, 
one  of  the  heads  of  the  north-east  branch  of  the  Hudson 
River. 

Che-on-der-oga^  by  the  Indian  phrase,  noist^  was  by  the 
French  chane^ed  into  IHconderogay  and  was  also  by  them 
named  Fort  Carillon,  after  its  erection  in  1766 ;  it  cost  the 
French  government  a  large  sum  of  money,  and  was  consider, 
cd  to  be  very  strong  both  by  nature  and  art,  being  surrounded 
on  three  sides  by  water,  and  by  a  deep  swamp  on  part  of  the 
other,  and  a  breastwork  on  the  remainder;  but  it  was  subse- 
qiienlly  easily  reduced  by  the  simple  expedient  adopted  by 
Burgoyne,  that  had  been  before  strangely  overlooked,  of  haul- 
ing a  piece  of  artillery  up  the  pinnacle  of  Mount  Defiance  726 
feet  high,  on  the  south  side  of  the  creek  that  overlooks  and 
entirely  commands  the  fort,  and  from  which  a  shot  can  with 
ease  be  thrown  into  the  midst  of  the  works,  that  had  been  pro* 
bably  supposed  to  be  too  distant  to  be  injured  in  that  way ; 
at  the   siege  of  Gibraltar  shot  were  thrown  4}  miles,  and 

13* 


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150 


Mount  Independence. 


I'i' 


by  the  French  at  the  siege  of  Cadiz  bombs  were  thrown  even 
six  mile9,  and  perhaps  more. 

Mount  Independences  where  some  intrenchmcnts  are  yet 
visible,  is  on  the  opposite  or  cast  shore  of  the  lake,  distant 
one  mile,  with  a  ferry  in  the  township  of  Orwell,  Vermont,  is 
of  diminished  height,  and  overlooks  the  peninsula  of  Ticon- 
deroga,  though  that  land  is  110  feet  above  the  lake,  and  196 
above  ti  ie.  Ochre,  used  as  pigments  in  making  yellow  and 
red  paints^  and  also  plumbago  or  black  lend,  are  found  at  th« 
base  of  Mount  Defiance.  The  village,  at  the  head  of  the 
falls,  consisting  of  a  few  houses  and  mills,  is  Alexandria  ;  the 
one  at  the  lower  falls,  one  mile,  is  Ticonderoga,  and  has  a 
post.oflice.  The  peninsula  contains  about  500  acres.  The 
walls  and  chimnies  yet  remain,  in  part,  as  venerable  ruins  of 
the  barracks  and  fort,  as  also  does  the  magaiine,  35  feet  long, 
15  wide,  and  8  high,  of  stone,  arched  and  forming  a  complete 
bomb- proof  under  earth ;  there  is  also  a  covered  way  and 
sally- port  forming  a  subterranean  passage  from  the  south* 
west  corner  of  the  old  fort  to  the  lake,  the  identical  passage 
that  Col.  Ethan  Allen,  of  Vermont,  entered  in  1776,  and 
surprised  the  commandant  in  bed  before  he  was  aware  of 
his  danger,  and  in  his  characteristic  way  required  the  officer 
to  surrender.  He  replied,  '*  To  whom  ?"  "  Why  to  Jehovah 
and  the  Continental  Congress,  to  be  sure,"  was  the  quaint 
reply.  This  was  the  first  fortress  Cciptured  by  the  Americans 
in  the  war  of  the  revolution. 

The  remains  of  another  fortification,  erected  c^iring  the 
revolutionary  war.  are  60  rods  south,  on  a  point  neai  the  lake, 
and  the  walls  are  60  feet  high. 

The  mot)t  important  events,  connected  with  this  fortress, 
by  which  so  many  thousands  of  human  beings  have  been 
wantonly,  and  rashly,  and  inhumanly  exposed  and  sacrificed 
in  the  campnign  of  1768,  under  General  Abercrombie,  have 
been  fully  detailed  in  our  preceding  pages.  In  1759  tho 
French  evacuated  thitt  post,  that  they  had,  with  Fort  Fredtric 
or  Crown  Point,  first  endowed  with  military  importance,  and 
had  expended  on  b'>th  vast  treasures  of  men  and  money ; 
thHl  they  tamelv  quitted  as  the  poweiful  armamt^nt  of  Lord 
Amherst  appioached  and  took  possession,  and  it  so  remained 
for  16  years,  when  the  An^erican  rev(dution  breakmg  out,  it 
was  captured  without  hloodxhed  hv  Colonel  Allen,  as  beforo 
mentioned,  in  1775.  and  held  till  1777,  when  the  British  army 
appealed  in  an  ay  before  it,  under  the  f  all&ut  Burgoync,  when 


St.  Clair. 


m 


even 


St.  Clair,  the  American  commander,  was  forced  to  evacuate 
in  his  turn,  and  it  fell  into  British  possession,  and  was  held 
during  the  war. 

St.  Clair  dispatched  the  baggage  and  stores  by  a  detach« 
meiit  up  tho  lake  to  Whitehall,  and  was  followed  by  the  Bri^ 
tish  in  full  pursuit  to  Fort  Anne,  where  a  skirmish  ensued; 
but  the  forces  under  St.  Clair  crossed  the  lake  to  Mount  In- 
dependence,  and  directed  their  march  upon  Hubberton,  Ver- 
mont, where  Colonel  Warner,  with  1,000  men,  was  overtaken 
and  brought  to  action  by  the  advanced  tfuard  of  the  British, 
and  were  vanquished,  and  retired  to  Fort  Edward,  on  the 
Hudson,  to  unite  with  General  Schuyler.  In  modern  times 
Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point  are  only  adverted  to  as  hav- 
ing once  been  an  important  place  in  American  history,  a  spe- 
cies of  *'  points  d'appui,"  that  held  the  keys  of  the  lakes  on 
which  the  movements  of  fleets  and  armies  must  take  place. 

After  finishing  Lake  George  and  Ticonderoga,  the  tourist 
can  take  the  steam-boat  at  Shoreham,  in  Vermont,  one  mile 
east  of  Ticonderoga,  and  return  to  the  south  by  the  way  of 
Whitehall  and  the  stage  route  through  to  Troy,  or  take  the 
cars  for  Sandy  Hill,  or  proceed  from  Shoreham  to  Kiitland 
and  Windsor,  Vermont,  and  up  or  down  the  charming  valley 
/  Connecticut  River,  or  continue  on  for  the  north  down  Lake 
Ctiamplain  to  Plattshurgh  and  St.  John's,  and  thence  to  Mon- 
treaj  and  Quebec.  The  downward  steam-boat  from  Whitehall 
usually  calls  at  Shoreham,  in  the  summer,  before  dark,  but 
from  Crown  Point  to  Plattsburgh,  46  miles,  the  passage  is 
made  at  night,  the-  not  beinp  a  line  of  day-boats.  The  price 
of  passage  from  Wti.  ^'hall  to  St.  John's,  160  miles,  is  $5. 

^'e  now  return  back  to  trace  our  route  from  page  146, 
where  we  diverged  from  the  regular  loute  to  give  our  readers 
the  popular  lake  tour. 

Leavmg  Sandy  Hill  in  the  cars  or  stages,  we  cross  1  he  sum- 
mil  level,  or  height  of  land  between  the  Hudson  River  and 
the  water  running  north,  and  in  a  short  distance  the  northern 
canal  that  we  meet  at  Fon  Aniit  the  village  so  named,  10 
miles  from  Sandy  Htll  and  1 1  from  Whitehall,  and  on  the  site 
of  the  old  fort  erected  in  1756.  ItrontuinsGO  dwelhngs,  three 
church'^'  'wo  taverns  and  stores,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  roll* 
ing  fw  ii .  ■  country;  and  two  miles  south  mny  be  seen  ves- 
tiges fif  ihi''  military  road  of  logs  made  in  1777  for  the  trans- 
port cf  »'  ^  artillery,  baggage,  and  stores  of  Burguyne's army 
to  Saratoga. 


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152 


Oriiioold^s  MilU'—Comitoch-^  WiMehaU. 


OriswoWs  Mills  is  on  Half-way  Brook,  four  miles  west  of 
Fort  Ann,  and  six  north  of  Sandy  Hill,  and  has  30  dwellings, 
one  grist,  one  saw-mill,  two  stores,  one  tavern,  teveral  forges 
for  making  anchors,  a  trip-hammer,  a  furnace  for  castings,  a 
pottery,  and  a  woollen  factory. 

Comstock,  a  landing  on  the  canal,  is  four  miles  north  from 
Fort  Ann,  and  is  a  place  of  much  business,  and  has  the  trade 
of  the  vicinity  and  east  part  of  Vermont;  and  several  ware- 
houses, a  post-office,  tavern,  store,  and  10  or  12  dwellings. 
Canal-boats  are  also  built  here. 

The  canal  enters  Wood  Creek,  and  for  6|  miles  pursues  its 
channel.  There  are  three  locks  at  Fort  Ar  .  fall  24  feet  into 
Wood  Creek.  In  4^  miles  is  (he  narrows,  a  in  three  more  is 
the  dam  in  Wood  Creek  to  supply  the  canal  to  Whitehall,  and 
make  the  creek  navigable  three  miles  above  to  the  dam-lock; 
and  in  five  miles  more  we  arrive  at  Whitehall^  at  th«  head  of 
Lake  Champlain,  73|^  miles  from  Albany,  where  the  canal  ter- 
minates, and  has  three  locks  and  a  fall  of  26  feet,  and  in  all 
from  summit  level  54,  to  the  basin  in  Lake  Champlain,  and 
30  to  the  Hudson  at  Fort  Edward. 

There  are  potSj  or  water-worn  cavities  in  the  hard  gneis 
rock  at  the  narrows  on  Wood  Creek,  near  50  feet  above  its 
present  level,  that  clearly  indicate  the  former  existence  of  a 
much  larger  body  of  water  discharging  itself  north  through 
the  depression  of  Lake  Champlain ;  and  as  the  Hudson,  at 
Sandy  Hill,  is  only  126  feet  abovo  tide  at  Troy,  a  surmise  ex- 
ists that  this  current  from  the  Hudson  to  the  St.  Lawrence 
formerly  obtained,  or  the  dividing  ridge  may  have  been  up> 
heaved  by  earthquakes. 

Wiitehall,  formerly  Skenesborough,  73  miles  from  Alba- 
ny, has  150  dwellings,  a  bank,  many  warehouses  for  the 
commission  and  forwarding  trade,  two  large  hotels,  20  gene- 
ral stores,  and  2,500  inhabitants ;  a  Presbyterian  and  a  Me- 
thodist church,  and  Societies  of  Universalists,  Catholics,  and 
Baptists.  It  commands  the  steam- boat  business  from  the  south 
down  the  lake,  and  the  canal  trade,  and  also  that  of  a  con- 
siderable region  around.  A  steam-boat  leaves  daily  during 
the  season  for  St.  John's,  Canada,  150  miles  distant,  touching 
at  the  several  landings. 

This  place  has  much  of  the  aspect  of  a  port,  and  there  are 
many  sloops  owned  here,  canal- boats,  &c.  There  is  not  much 
room  for  wide  streets,  as  it  is  in  a  def 'e  and  very  restricted. 
The  houses  are  of  the  stone  that  is  quarried  on  the  spot,  and 


WhiUhall. 


153 


many  may  be  said  to  rise  out  of  their  cellars  on  knolls  and 
elevations,  and  others  at  the  edge  of  the  heritor. 

The  Aboriginal  name  of  this  place  was  Kah-cho-qaa*na,  the 
place  to  dipfihf  at  the  foot  of  the  falls  near  the  village  where 
the  Wood  Creeic  and  Pawlct  River  unite.  Here  may  be  seen 
rotting  in  the  mud  the  useless  hulks  of  the  vessels  captured 
by  Commodore  M*Donough  from  the  British,  during  the  last 
war,  in  the  action  off  Plnttsburgh  and  Cumberland  Head. 

The  Poultney  River  that  comes  in  from  the  north,  and  that 
has  its  source  in  Rutland  County,  Vermont,  at  the  base  of  the 
Green  Mountains,  and  in  the  Lake  Bombazine^  in  Caslleton, 
five  miles  long,  in  1783  made  for  itself  a  new  channel  by  an 
impetuous  rush  of  water,  the  result  of  some  outbursting  of  a 
mountain  lake,  or  of  a  watcr-spout  that  forced  and  cut  its  way 
60  feet  deep  through  a  ridge,  and  carrying  so  large  a  quantity 
of  earth  into  the  east  bay,  as  to  choke  up,  for  a  season,  its 
navigation. 

From  Fort  Ann  to  Whitehall,  11  miles,  the  canal  runs  side  hv 
side  with  Wood  Creek,  so  near  that  a  pistol  shot  will  reacn 
either,  and  we  here  see  the  truth  of  the  prmciple  of  Brindley, 
the  engineer  of  the  Duke  of  Bridgewater's  canal,  who  being 
questioned  before  the  House  of  Commons,  what  he  thought 
rivers  were  made  for,  replied,  "  to  feed  navigable  canals  ;** 
and  although  the  channel  of  Wood  Creek  is  actually  used  for 
canal  purposes  for  six  or  seven  miles,  yet  as  it  has  a  strong 
current  difficult  to  stem  in  coming  from  Whitehall,  the  canal 
is  preferable.  At  one  remarkable  spot  the  road  passes  over, 
for  several  hundred  feet,  the  surface  of  a  bare  rock,  called  the 
"  DeviPt  Dining  Table.**  There  is  a  variety  of  hill  and  dale, 
banren  rock^,  swamps,  tracts  of  clay,  alluvion,  and  of  rich 
mould  in  this  county. 

At  Whitehall  Burgoyne  destroyed  the  American  flotilla  in 
1777,  and  the  baggage  and  stores  of  the  American  army,  and 
had  his  head  quarters  for  some  time,  while  his  troops  were 
forming  a  road  and  clearing  obstructions  (that  the  Americans 
had  prepared  to  oppose  their  progress,^  to  enable  him  to  get 
on  with  his  army  and  materiel  the  short  distance  to  Fort 
Edward,  and  to  accomplish  this  he  spent  so  much  time,  and 
subsequently  in  camp  at  Fort  Edward  in  waiting  for  his 
provisions,  artillery,  &c.  to  arrive  from  Whitehall,  that  the 
Americans  had  time  to  rally  their  militia  from  all  quarters^ 
and  poured  in  bcr  hardy  mountaineers  from  Vermont,  New 


^^ 


\  I 


m 


Excuraion  down  Lake  Champlain,  3fC. 


Hampshire,  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut,  and  soon  turned 
back  the  current  of  invasion. 

The  remains  of  an  intrenchment  thrown  up  at  that  time  by 
the  English,  may  yet  be  seen  on  the  hill  overlooking  the  basin, 
the  village,  and  the  falls  of  Wood  Creek,  and  the  canal  and 
locks  that  are  compressed  side  by  side;  nature  versus  art. 
A  path  leads  to  the  summit ;  there  is  a  bridge  over  Wood 
Creek. 

The  rocks  are  beautifully  stratified  in  horizontal  and  per- 
pendicular lines,  similar  to  masonry,  and  this  is  seen  in  other 
places  a»  wo  pasii  on. 
.    The  summit  of  Skene's  Mountain  at  Whitehall  is  588  feet. 


Excursion  down  I^ake  ChamplaTn  and 
on  the  St.  I^awrence  to  montreal  and 
€|uebec. 

The  stranger  uninformed  of  the  topography  of  this  country, 
on  arriving  at  Whitehall,  is  astonished  to  look  down  into 
the  narrow  glen  below  the  village  and  witness  the  mimic  stir 
and  bustle  of  a  small  sea-port,  amid  a  very  rough  country  in 
the  centre  of  the  State,  with  crags  and  precipices  towering 
above  the  busy  settlement  that  appears  to  be  placed  at  the 
edge  of  a  dull,  pond- like  body  of  water,  without  any  visible 
outlet,  in  a  position  dividing  the  primitive  rocks  on  the  west 
from  the  transition  on  the  east. 

The  steam-boat  usually  leaves  soon  after  dinner,  thus  giv- 
ing the  traveler  several  hours  of  day-light  in  getting  through 
the  narrow  and  difficult  sinuous  channel,  that  seems  to  turn 
to  every  quarter  of  the  compass,  with  very  restricted  limits  to 
put  about  or  pass  a  vessel  going  in  a  contrary  direction  ;  in 
abort,  this  arm  of  the  lake  is  for  miles  a  lifeless,  sedgy,  dis' 
colored  body  of  water,  destitute  of  current,  and  confined  be- 
tween low  banks,  miry,  wet,  and  marshy,  that  extend  in  some 
places  several  furlongs  back,  to  the  ridges  that  limit  the  valley. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  dock  we  notice  on  the  left  an  ex- 
pansion of  the  lake,  that  was  taken  by  Dieskau  in  his  de- 
scent in  1755,  called  South  Bay,  extending  five  miles  south- 
west, bounded  in  that  direction  by  the  lofty  chain  of  granite 


A 


EMunion  doum  Lake  Champlain,  SfC. 


15A 


ttountaios  1,600  feet  high,  that  upholds  the  watera  of  Lake 
George,  and  that  has  a  wild  repulsive  aspect.  There  it  one 
remarkable  gateway-looking  aperture  through  which  the  boat 
passes,  almost  brushing  the  perpendicular  face  of  the  wall, 
that  has  the  artificial  appearance  before  alluded  to,  and  from 
thence,  after  continuing  on  a  few  miles,  the  lake  sensibly 
widens  for  the  remainder  of  the  26  miles  that  brings  us  to 
Ticonderoga,  with  Mount  Defiance  on  the  left,  and  Indepen- 
dence on  the  right,  both  alluded  to  in  pages  149  and  160. 

The  precipitate  abandonment  of  this  fortress  in  1759,  that 
had  been  constructed  by  the  French,  and  from  whence  had 
been  sent  those  hordes  of  savage  and  ferocious  bands  that 
kept  the  colonics  in  constant  terror,  and  from  which  the 
French  now  finally  retired,  was  a  subject  of  deep  congratula- 
tion and  thanksgiving  to  the  American  nation;  and  as  up  to 
this  period  the  fort  had  not  been  captured  in  open  fight,  but 
only  by  stratagem,  it  was  held  to  be  impregnable  until  the 
expedient  was  suggested  to  Burgoyne  of  assailing  it  with 
cannon  ball  from  Mount  Defiance,  which  soon  dislodged^the 
Americans  from  that,  and  also  from  the  formidable  works  at 
Mount  Independence  directly  opposite. 

A  landing  now  occurs  either  at  Ticonderoga  or  on  the  op- 
posite side  in  Vermont ;  and  those  not  wishing  to  proceed  any 
further,  can  spend  a  few  hours  or  a  day  in  examining  the  ruins 
and  take  the  boat  to  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  proceed  to  the 
Springs  and  to  Niagara. 

There  does  not  exist  in  the  United  Stages  a  place  that  ex- 
hibits the  historical  and  moral  associations  equal  to  those 
attached  to  this  romantic  spot,  where  has  so  often  been  dis- 
played the  grim  defiance  of  the  warrior,  followed  by  the  rapid 
mutability  of  human  events,  the  fluctuations  of  power,  and  the 
repose  that  distinguishes  the  peninsula  under  the  fostering 
care  and  preservation  of  its  amiable  and  appreciating  owner, 
that  will  hold  as  sacred  the  relics  that  here  remain,  until  the 
moss  and  hue  of  ages,  and  its  ivy-crowned  ramparts  will  im- 
part increasing  interest  to  all  Americans  and  antiquarians, 
and  cause  it  to  be  visited  by  countless  pilgrims.  The  land- 
scape that  Ticonderoga  presents,  the  lake,  the  bay,  the  ruins, 
the  near  and  distant  mountains,  and  the  gorge  leading  the  eye 
np  towards  the  falls,  all  properly  grouped,  and  the  happy  mo- 
ment seized  in  the  afternoon,  when  clouds,  light  and  shadow« 
hII  are  favorable,  ofler  the  most  splendid  subject  for  the  pen- 
cils of  our  most  accomplished  artists. 


IH 


Excnrtion  dovsn  Lake  Champlaim. 


Five  MUe  Pointt  fo  called,  from  Us  distance  from  Ticon* 
deroga,  extends  a  considerable  space  out  from  the  east  or 
Vermont  side,  in  the  town  of  Shoreham,  and  in  nine  miles 
more  the  boat  arrives  at  Crown  Point,  and  the  landing  at 
Chimney  Point  half  a  mile  across  the  lakB  in  the  township  of 
Addison,  in  Vermont.  The  fort  of  Crown  Point,  37  miles  from 
Whitehall,  is  at  the  extremity  of  a  tongue  of  land  jutting  far 
into  the  lake  to  the  north,  elevated  47  feet  above  the  water  of 
Lake  Champlain,  and  having  a  considerable  body  of  water  oa 
the  west,  called  West  Bay.  On  the  farther  ^hore  of  this  bay 
i^  Port  Henryt  that  will  soon  be  described. 

This  post,  when  in  French  possession  from  1731  to  1759, 
was  another  source  of  grievance  and  distress  to  the  colonies, 
and  its  fate  in  being  abandoned  to  Lord  Amherst  without 
bloodshed,  a  cause  of  much  rejoicing ;  the  ruins  of  the  French 
works  may  yet  be  seen  from  the  boat's  deck  on  the  i|0uth  side 
of  the  bay,  opposite  Chimney  Point.  An  entire  neW  fortresi 
of  earth  and  wood,  22  feet  thick,  16  high,  was  then  construct* 
ed  by  Lord  Amherst.  It  was  1,500  yards  square,  and  had 
a  deep  and  broad  ditch  cut  in  the  solid  graniU  with  immense 
labor,  besides  a  double  row  of  strong  stone  barracks  to  con* 
tain  2,000  troops,  with  a  gate  on  the  north,  a  draw-bridge,  and 
a  covered  way  to  the  water ;  these  expensive  works  are  part* 
ly  in  ruins.  The  redoubt  of  the  French  was  on  the  very  bank 
of  the  lake,  150  yards  from  the  fort,  and  is  now  a  mere  heap 
of  stones.  (Near  this  point  on  the  13th  October,  1776,  ter* 
minated  the  American  expedition  against  Canada,  by  the 
destruction  of  the  Heet  under  Arnold.) 

Crown  Point  and  its  garrison  are  said  to  have  cost  the 
British  government  two  millions  of  pounds  sterling !  a  great, 
and  scandalous,  and  useless  waste  of  money,  as  the  ground 
is  flat,  and  commanded  by  the  hills  on  the  west,  and  the  fort 
has  never  been  tested  or  occupied  either  in  offensive  or  de. 
fensive  operations. 

In  proceeding  along  the  lake  in  the  day-time,  or  from  the 
highest  part  of  the  walls  of  this  fortification,  the  Green  Moun* 
tains  in  Vermont,  and  the  more  lofty  summits  lately  explored, 
as  the  sources  of  the  Hudson  and  the  Au  Sable,  about  20 
miles  west,  are  seen  to  soar  up  to  their  utmost  heights,  and 
fill  the  horizon  with  infinite  grandeur;  and  here  also  the  lake 
opens  finely  to  the  north,  with  an  efl*ect  that  is  increased  in 
beauty,  by  the  tourist  having  at  first  been  very  restricted  ai 
to  the  distant  perspective,  and  the  water  tha^  hitherto  has  been 


J 


V  ■'' 


Excunion  to  (he  kigheH  Mouniaini  in  Neto-  York.       157 

ihallow,  muddy,  and  opaque,  becomes  clear,  deep,  and  pota- 
ble, and  expands  suddenly  four  or  five  miles ;  and  above  Far- 
riiburgh  andthe  mouth  of  Otter  Creek,  to  10  or  ]2,  and  has 
its  g^reatcst  vMdth,  18  miles,  opposite  Burlington. 

Lake  Cham  plain  Is  more  than  600  feet  deep,  as  soundings 
have  been  made  to  that  depth  and  no  bottom,  thus  making 
(r«i  the  surface  is  93  above  tide,)  a  larg$  portion  of  the  lake 
below  (he  level  of  the  sea. 


Excorsion  to  the  highest  mountaimi  in  the 
State  of  IVew-Yorky  and  to  the  Sources 
of  the  Hudson  and  An  Sahle. 


The  tourist  wishing  to  explore  the  glens,  dykes,  lakes, 
lofty  pinnacles,  minerals,  numerous  water-falls  and  attrac* 
lions  of  this  new  field  of  examination,  recently  brought  be- 
fore the  public  by  the  corps  of  savans  of  the  State,  may  land 
either  at  Port  Henry,  or  at  North-West  Bay,  or  Westportf  oppo« 
site  Basin  Harbor ^  Vermont,  or  at  Essex  a  few  miles  north, 
or  at  the  mouth  of  the  Au  Sable,  at  or  near  Port  Kentj  or 
KeesevUle,  (a  raiUroad  four  and  three  quarter  milen  long  con- 
nects the  two  places,)  and  thence  trace  up  along  the  banks  of 
the  Au  Sable  to  its  source  4,747  feet ;  from  this  enormous 
height  it  descends  in  only  40  miles  in  a  gorge  or  ravine,  that 
has  either  been  made  by  its  waters,  or  made  by  earthquakes 
or  some  powerful,  natural  cause,  that  exhibits  an  array  of 
successive  water-ialls  more  sublime  and  magnificent  than 
any  other  part  of  the  United  States,  and  that  well  rewards  the 
curious  traveler  fond  of  such  exciting  exhibitions  of  nature. 

Port  Henry  is  a  small  village  and  place  of  landing  on  the 
west  shore  of  the  bay,  about  a  mile  or  two  from  Crown  Point; 
the  road  leading  from  thence  into  the  interior  is  much  used 
for  the  transportation  of  sawed  pir.e  lumber,  there  being  in 
the  large  township  of  Moriah  more  than  60  saw  mills;  a  ride 
of  six  miles  west  enters  the  forest,  and  crosses  the  old  state 
road  from  Warren  County  to  Flattsburgh,  that  has  a  line  of 
settlements  on  its  borders;  the  junction  of  primary  rocks  with 
the  transition  series,  may  be  seen  near  the  western  border  of 
Lake  Champlain^  and  at  the  line  of  contact  the  limestone  is 
w  14 


lai 


Eait  Moriah'-^Lake  9anford. 


ID  white  maMet,  crystaliae  in  structure,  with  scalei  of  plum- 
bago. 

Etut  Moriak  is  three  and  a  half  miles  west,  800  feet  above 
the  lake,  and  has  a  fine  view  of  the  western  slope  of  Vermont, 
and  the  extended  and  fine  outline  of  the  Green  Mountains  in 
the  distant  back  ground. 

A  now  road,  rather  rough,  leads  to  Weaiherheads,  at  Wett 
Moriaht  on  the  Scroon  River,  or  northeast  branch  of  the  Hud- 
son,  13  miles  from  Port  Henry,  and  on  through  an  unsettled 
country  to  the  Black  River  in  Lewis  County,  following  defiles 
and  gaps  in  the  Scroon  Mountains,  that  at  Weatherheads  ap- 
pear to  rear  their  lofty  and  continued  ridges  and  clifis,  and 
prevent  all  access ;  but  there  is  an  unseen  gorge  that  leads  to 
Israel  Johnson's,  at  the  outlet  of  a  beautiful  mountain  lake, 
called  Clear  Pond,  nine  miles  from  Scroon  River.'  From 
Johnson's  may  be  seen  the  highest  peak  20*^  west,  th.U  ii 
covered  with  snow  9  or  10  months. 

A  further  distance  of  nine  miles  reaches  to  the  Boreas,  a 
branch  of  the  Hudson,  eight  miles  from  Johnson's,  and  soon 
to  the  main  north  branch  of  the  Hudson,  near  and  below  its 
junction  with  the  outlet  of  Lake  Sanford,  and  in  a  few  rods 
to  the  landing  at  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  nine  miles  from  the 
Boreas.  From  hence,  leaving  the  road  as  before,  we  diverge 
and  enter  a  difficult  path,  that  leads  up  the  west  of  the  lake, 
and  in  six  miles  the  tourist  is  at  the  Iron  Works,  at  M'Intyre, 
and  at  the  remarkable  and  vast  beds  of  ore  of  the  best  quaUty 
in  its  vicinity. 

Lake  Sanford  is  about  five  miles  long,  and  Is  a  handsome 
expanse,  and,  whh  all  the  lakes  and  streams,  abounds  in  trout. 

LabradoritCf  or  Feldspar,  abounds  from  Scroon  Valley  to 
Hamilton  and  Franklin  Counties,  and  north  to  the  plains  that 
are  between  the  upper  waters  of  the  Au  Sable  and  Lake 
Placed,  an  area  in  all  of  600  to  800  square  miles,  and  blocks 
and  boulders  of  this  rock  are  found  south  and  west  to  the 
southern  boundary  of  this  State,  and  are  at  Coxsackie  of  100 
tons,  300  feet  above  the  Hudson. 


I^akes  and  mountains,  and   Sources  of 
vtae  Hudson  and  Au  Sable. 

From  JU!*/7i/yre,  those  intending  to  reaeh  the  virgin  source 
of  the  Hudson,  m  defiance  of  wolves,  deer,  moose  and  pan- 


Idtke*  and  Mountains,  and  Sources  of  the  Hudson^  8fC.    159 

thers,  that  all  abound  in  these  unfrequented  haunts,  mutt 
here  plunge  into  the  wilds,  in  a  south-east  direction,  passing 
two  small  lakes,  till  at  three  or  four  miles  from  the  settlement 
at  the  south  point  of  one  of  the  mountains,  a  more  east  course 
leads  to  the  main  branch  of  the  river,  that  is  occasionally 
forded  and  continued  on  the  beach ;  rolled  masses  of  the  La- 
bradorite  rock,  in  small  opalescent  specimens,  show  their 
beautiful  colors  in  the  stream,  that  increases  in  the  ascent, 
and  is  seen  to  pour  forth  from  between  two  mountains  in 
front;  in  two  miles  a  more  precipitous  part  of  the  gorge  is 
met,  through  which  the  river  descends,  and  progress  becomes 
difficult  and  dangerous,  and  falls  and  rapids  frequent,  and 
at  last  an  imposing  cascade  is  encountered,  that  is  closely 
pent  between  two  steep  mountains,  and  falls  about  80  feet 
into  a  deep  chasm,  precipitous  and  secluded. 

Similar  obstacles  continue  till  the  head  of  this  terrific  ra- 
vine is  reached,  where  a  ledge  of  rock  crosses  and  obstructs 
the  stream  that  backs  and  raises  the  river  for  a  mile  in  a 
west  and  north-west  direction,  and  forms  a  level  called  the 
Upper  StUl  JVaUff  that  is  pent  in  the  bottom  of  this  deep  moun- 
tain recess  or  valley,  with  scarce  any  visible  current.  On 
continuing  up  the  valley,  the  river  has  a  meandering  course 
of  one  mile  to  the  north-west  and  north,  with  some  current, 
until  it  forks  in  two  branches ;  the  main  one  comes  from  the 
east,  the  one  from  the  north,  in  200  yards,  leads  to  the  outlet 
of  a  fine  lake  one  mile  long,  called  Lake  Colden,  that  is  situ- 
ated between  two  mountain  peaks,  that  rise  in  full  and  lofty 
grandeur ;  the  valley  to  north-east,  leads  to  the  Avalanche 
Lake,  that  is  nearly  equal  to,  and  discharges  by  its  outlet  into 
Lake  Golden.  The  mountains  on  the  sides  of  Avalanche 
Lake  rise  so  precipitous  as  to  preclude  any  passage  except 
by  water,  and  the  scenery  is  so  imposing  from  the  immense 
slides  that  have  como  from  the  steep  face  of  the  mountain, 
that  its  name  is  most  truly  appropriate.  Fine  specimens  of 
the  opalescent  rock  may  here  be  found. 

Following  the  main  stream  to  the  south-east  for  two  miles, 
over  falls  and  rapids,  in  one  spot  the  river  has  taken  the 
place  of  a  trap  dyke  that  cut  through  the  rock,  thus  form- 
ing a  chasm  or  sluice  of  great  depth,  with  perpendicular  walls 
into  which  the  river  falls  in  a  cascade  of  50  feet.  There  are 
no  trout  above  Lake  Golden.  The  Notch  or  pass,  to  be  de- 
scribed in  turn,  is  five  miles  north  of  M*Intyre;  the  Wallface 
Mountain,  on  its  west  side,  it  1,200  feet  perpendicular ! ! 


160 


Laket  and  Mountains,  S^e, 


From  a  boat  on  Lake  Sunford  the  beauty  and  grandeur  of 
the  lake  and  mountain  scenery  is  fully  developed  and  enjoyed, 
and  the  echos  at  a  point  on  the  upper  part  are  remarkably 
strong  and  distinct.  « 

Continuing  on  above  the  Great  Dyke  Falls  three  miles,  is 
the  south  elbow,  where  the  bed  of  the  main  stream  changes  ro 
the  north-east,  and  a  tributary  comes  in  from  the  south-west, 
The  course  now  enters  the  high  valley,  that  separates  Mount 
M'Martin  from  Mount  Marcy  on  the  south-east,  but  the  forest 
growth  is  so  dense  that  these  peaks  cannot  here  be  seen ;  a 
mile  from  the  south  elbow  another  tributary  enters  from  the 
south-east,  from  a  ravine  that  borders  the  high  peak  on  the 
west,  where  beautiful  opalescent  specimens  of  the  Labradorite 
are  found  in  its  bed. 

At  one  mile  is  a  smaller  tributary  from  the  north,  that  from 
the  low  alluvial  land  near  its  entrance  is  called  th^  High 
Meadow  Forkf  and  has  the  surprising  elevation  of  3,700  feet 
above  tide,  and  by  the  same  course  for  one  mile,  the  route 
crossed  by  falls  and  cascades,  we  are  past  the  broader  part  of 
the  valley,  and  the  direction  to  pursue  is  east* south-east  and 
south-east,  with  a  steeper  ascent,  and  higher  and  more  fre- 
quent falls.  The  valley  becomes  more  compressed  as  wo 
advance,  and  has  the  aspect  of  a  ravine,  with  the  two  gigantic 
mountains  on  the  north  and  south  towering  and  filling  the  sky 
with  an  increasing  ascent  in  like  course  for  two  or  three  miles 
to  the  summit  of  the  pass.  A  portion  of  this  valley  has  a 
ridge  of  boulders  and  debris,  that  a  slide  or  avalanche  has 
brought  from  the  face  of  the  mountain  above.  The  stream 
rapidly  diminishes  as  we  ascend  to  the  south-east,  and  is  at 
last  partially  hid  under  the  grass-covered  boulders  at  the 
head  of  the  stream,  on  the  summit  of  this  elevated  pass,  that 
hero  forms  a  beautiful  and  open  mountain  meadow,  with  the 
ridges  of  the  two  adjacent  mountains,  rising  in  easy  slopes 
from  its  sides.  From  this  litt?';  meadow  in  Keene,  the  main 
branch  of  the  Hudson  and  a  fork  of  the  east  branch  of  the 
Au  Sable  commence  their  descending  course  m  opposite  di- 
rections. The  elevation  is  4,700  feet  above  tide  water,  and 
more  than  900  feet  above  the  highest  point  of  the  Catskill 
Mountains. 


I 


Aicent  of  the  High  Peak  ofE%ux.\ 


161 


Ascent  of  the  Hlffh  Peak  of  Essex. 

From  the  meadow  below,  the  ridge  is  ascended  to  the 
W.  S.  W.  amid  an  entangled  zone  of  dwarf  pines  and  spruces, 
that  with  their  numerous  horizontal  branches  interwoven 
with  each  other,  surround  the  mountain  at  this  elevation. 
They  gradually  decrease  in  height  till  !he  open  surface  of 
the  mountain  is  reached,  covered  with  mosses  and  Hmall  al- 
pine phnts,  and  these  continue  for  a  space,  when  the  tourist 
that  is  persevering,  able,  and  daring  enough  to  sustain  the 
fatigues  of  the  adventure,  finds  himself  on  the  highett  peak 
in  the  State  of  New-York,  5,467  feet,— 600  feet  above  the 
While  Face  mountain,  and  1,650  above  the  Catskills. 

The  summit  and  mass  of  the  mountain  is  entirely  of  the 
Labradoritic  rock.  Ice  has  been  found  here  on  the  third  of 
August  half  an  inch  thick.  The  source  of  the  Hudson  bears 
north  70°,  east  one  and  a  quarter  miles,  and  the  descent  to  it 
is  more  gradual  than  in  any  other  direction. 

The  view  from  the  summit  presents  mountain  masses  of 
various  magnitudes  and  elevations — a  sea  of  broken  and 
pointed  billows,  scattered  around  in  irregular  profusion.  In 
the  distance  is  the  great  valley  or  plain  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
the  shining  surface  of  Lake  Champlain,  and  the  extensive 
mountain  range  of  Vermont,  and  in  nearer  proximity  is  be- 
held the  bald  surface  of  recent  mountain  slides  from  various 
peaks,  and  the  glistening  of  many  lakes  deeply  embosomed 
in  the  valleys. 

The  Great  Trap  Dyke*  of  Mount  M'Martin  cuts  through  it 
from  N.N.W.  to  E.S.E  is  80  feet  wide,and  being  in  part  brok- 
en from  its  bed  by  water  and  ice,an  open  chasm  is  thus  formed 
in  the  abrupt  and  almost  perpendicular  face  of  the  mountain, 
and  the  scene  on  entering  it  is  one  of  overpowering  grandeur; 
its  nearly  vertical  walls  of  rock  overhang  the  spectator, 
and  seem  to  threaten  destruction ;  but  with  care  and  exer- 
tion, though  at  much  peril,  it  may  be  ascended  by  means  of 
the  foothold  of  the  irregularities  of  its  surface,  1,600  feet,  and 
fine  specimens  of  the  opalescent  labradorito  obtained.  The 
summit  of  Mount  M'Martin  is  lower  than  the  peaks  each 
side  of  it,  and  is  estimated  at  4,950  feet. 

*  By  a  dyke  is  meant  a  wall  or  vein  of  mineral  matter,  different  from 
the  ore  or  rock  that  it  traverses.  The  dykes  in  their  beds  of  ore  are  ubu> 
ally  vertical,  or  nearly  so. 

14* 


^^^<r^^W~ 


m 


Oreai  Trap  Dyhe^Mount  M^lniyre* 


The  distance  from  the  outlet  of  Lake  Golden  to  the  head 
of  Avalanche  Lake  is  two  and  a  quarter  miles,  and  the 
streanri  that  enters  the  head  of  the  latter,  throe  quarters  of  a 
mile,  and]  fall  of  the  outlet  to  Lake  Golden,  80  feet.  The  ele« 
vation  of  Avalanche  Lake  is  3,000  feet,  being  the  hij/hest  lake 
in  the  United  States.  The  mountain  that  rises  on  the  west 
of  this  lake,  and  separates  its  valley  from  that  of  the  Au 
Sable,  is  perhaps,  in  mass,  the  largest  of  the  group.  Its 
ridge  has  four  peaks,  the  last  but  ono  to  the  north  is  the  high- 
eat,  and  is  above  the  lake,  and  opposite  to  Mount  M'Mnrtin, 
and  is  named  after  a  former  comptroller  of  this  State,  M'lntyre. 

Mount  Mlnlyrt  can  be  ascended  through  a  steep  ravine, 
that  empties  its  small  stream  into  Lake  Golden.  The  ascent 
is  only  ono  mile  of  horiEontal  di^ttance,  and  the  more  difficult 
from  its  being  at  a  steeper  angle;  the  ravine  is  the  easiest 
route  up,  for  on  the  sheltered  side  the  impervious  growth  of 
low  evergreens  is  very  perplexing.  More  lakes  are  seen, 
and  the  beautiful  and  extensive  group,  the  Saranac  Waters^ 
and  the  source  of  the  Saranac,  and  joining  the  lake  at  PlattS' 
burg. 

The  view  of  the  still  water  of  the  Hudson,  like  a  silver 
thread  in  the  bottom  of  its  deep  and  forest  green  valley,  ig 
peculiarly  attractive.  The  opposite  front  of  Mount  M'Mar- 
tin  exposes  the  face  of  the  great  dyke,  and  its  passage 
through  the  .summit  near  to  its  highest  point,  and  nearly  par- 
allel to  the  v/hitened  path  of  a  slide  that  has  descended  into 
Avalanche  Lake. 

The  color  of  the  labradorite  is  a  smoke  gray,  of  various 
shades,  opaque  or  translucent,  if  in  this  lamina;  the  best 
are  a  blue  and  a  green.  Without  particularizing  all  the  varie- 
ties, let  it  suffice  to  say,  they  are  prolific,  and  of  surpassing 
beauty.  The  polished  pieces  form  gems  highly  esteemed  in 
jewelry,  and  they  cannot  be  imitated,  as  most  other  gems. 
For  tables,  mantels,  and  ornamental  purposes  it  is  best 
adapted  and  of  the  most  value,  and  it  may  be  split  into  rectan- 
gular pieces  of  any  size,  and  sawn  into  slabs  of  the  size 
wanted,  by  mills  on  the  spot,  or  sent  to  market  rough;  it  re- 
ceives a  polish  superior  to  any  of  the  American  marbles,  and 
is  worth  five  times  as  much. 

Mount  M'lntyre  is  also  intersected  by  dykes  that  cross  it 
at  the  lowest  point  of  depression  between  its  several  peaks, 
and  its  ravines  are  caused  by  the  more  rapid  erosion  of  the 
dykes.  "^ 


% 


ifount  M'lniyre—Noteh^Bdld  Peak. 


The  highest  af  the  peaks  has  cracki  and  fisfures  in  various 
directions,  caused  by  earthquakes. 

The  most  remarkable  geological  phenomena  of  this  region 
is  the  dykes  that  traverse  the  hypersthem  rocks;  they  have 
an  east  and  west  lino  for  great  distances,  and  to  an  extent 
that  the  wooded  slate  of  tiie  country  does  not  admit  of  ex- 
actly defining,  the  largest  being  at  Avalanche  Lake  ;  n  por- 
tion of  the  north  face  of  the  wall  may  be  seen  from  Laku 
Henderson,  5  miles  distance.  This  gorge  exhibits,  on  a  large 
scale,  the  effects  of  front  and  water  in  rending  the  crust  of  the 
globe;  the  masses  are  from  6U  to  100  feet,  and  lie  in  confu- 
sion in  all  directions  from  the  base  to  the  summit. 

Large  blocks  of  labradoritic  rocks  are  scattered  about 
the  summit  of  Mount  M'Martin ;  the  height  io  6,200  feet,  and 
is  the  second  in  elevation  in  this  nest  of  pc&ki,  consisting  of 
20  or  30  that  nearly  approach,  if  not  exceed,  0,000  feol — far 
exceeding  the  highest  peaks  of  the  Catskill  3. 

Descending  the  mountain  cone,  that  is  very  abrupt  on  nil 
sides,  by  a  steep  ravine  leading  to  the  valley  of  the  Au  Sable, 
and  ascending  that  stream,  the  traveler  will  arrive  at  the  ex- 
traordinary pass  of  the 

Notchf  that  is,  an  immense  gorge  or  chasm  that  gives  a  pass 
through  these  high  mountains.  On  one  side  risos  the  solid 
rock  in  a  flare-up  precipice  of  more  than  1,000  feet;  on  the 
other  a  nteep  monntain  rises  to  an  elevation  of  5,000  feet. 
The  north  or  principal  branch  of  the  Hudson,  3,000  feet  high, 
that  passes  through  Lake  Henderson,  rises  in  this  notch,  as 
also  does  the  south  branch  of  the  Au  Sable;  the  former  flows 
south,  the  other  north,  and  these  streams  are  so  near  each 
other,  that  during  freshets  and  meltings  in  spring,  their  wa- 
ters mingle.  Vast  blocks  have  fallen  from  the  great  precipice 
of  the  VVallface  Mountain  on  one  side,  and  from  Mount  M'ln- 
tyre  on  the  other,  into  the  bottom  of  this  dreadful  gulf;  some 
of  (he  blocks  are  set  on  end,  of  a  height  of  70  feet,  in  the 
mos8*covered  tops  and  crevices  of  which  large  trees  have 
taken  root,  and  shoot  their  lofty  stems  high  above  the  toppling 
foundation. 

Lake  Henderson  is  a  fine  sheet  of  water,  of  two  or  three 
miles  long,  with  the  high  mountain  of  Santanoni  rising  from 
its  borders  on  the  west  and  south-west. 

tiald  Peak  is  an  eminence  2,065  feet  high,  on  the  west  shore 
of  Lake  Chainplain,  seven  miles  north-north-west  from  Crown 
Point.    A  good  carriage-road  leads  from  East  Morifth  nearly 


m 


^fm 


164 


Cedar  Point-'  Westport-^Basin  Harbor, 


to  the  foot  of  th«  neak,  from  whence  the  ascent  by  a  foot-pnth 
is  not  QiiBcult.  and  may  be  accomplished  even  by  ladies  with- 
out hazard.  The  summit  commands  a  grand  view  of  some  of 
the  principal  peaks  in  the  interior;  and  the  prolonged  basin 
of  Lake  Champlain,  and  the  view  that  is  obtained  is  well 
worth  the  trouble  of  the  ascent,  and  is  worthy  the  atfention 
of  tourists  that  can  land  conveniently  either  at  Port  Henry  or 
IVestport. 

The  source  of  the  Hudson  and  the  High  Peak  of  Essex  can 
be  most  conveniently  reached  from  Johnson's,  at  Clear  Pond^ 
by  a  course  north,  20°  west,  or  by  landing  at  IVestport  or  Es- 
sex, and  proceeding  to  the  nearest  settlement  at  Keene.  By 
landing  at  Port  Kent,  and  ascending  the  course  of  the  Au 
Sable  to  the  south-east  part  of  Keene,  and  from  thence  to  the 
peak,  the  most  interesting  chain  of  water-falls  and  mountain 
ravines  that  is  to  be  found,  perhaps,  in  the  United  States,  may 
be  visited.  At  Keene,  Mr.  Harvey  Holt,  an  able  woodsman, 
will  act  as  guide  and  assistant  in  reaching  the  mountain. 
From  the  valley  that  lies  south  of  the  peak,  and  near  to  the 
head  waters  of  the  Boreas  and  Au  Sable,  may  be  obtained 
some  of  the  best  mountain  views  that  this  region  affords. 
Travelers  must,  however,  provide  and  takis  their  own  means 
of  subsistence  while  absent  from  the  settlements. 
'  Cedar  Point  is  a  small  villa{;e  on  the  lake,  and  has  a  valua- 
ble bed  of  verd  antique  marble. 

Weslport  is  at  the  head  of  the  north-west  bay  of  Lake 
Champlain,  eight  miles  east  of  Elizabeth,  and  has  two 
churches,  an  academy,  two  taverns,  five  stores,  a  ferry  to 
Basin  Harbor,  Vermont,  and  60  to  70  dwellings.  It  is  thriv- 
ing, and  is  surrounded  by  a  large  quantity  of  excellent  land 
under  good  culture.  On  the  road  north  of  Westport  towards 
Essex,  the  road  passes  through  two  parallel  ridges  of  granite, 
with  not  a  foot  to  spare,  with  evidence  of  strong  erosion  by 
powerful  currents  that  have  worn  and  polished  the  rock  on 
both  sides  in  a  long  cylindrical  excavation,  horizontal. 

Basin  Harbor  is  a  post  village  in  Addison  County,  Ver- 
mont, in  Tenisburg,  east  side  of  Lake  Champlain,  4^  milcft 
south  of  the  mouth  of  Otter  Creek,  and  10  miles  from  Ver- 
igennes,  and  is  an  important  landing  place  for  the  country 
people  on  the  banks  of  Otter  Creek;  and  a  road  leads  h^ce 
to  Middlebury,  Vergennes,  and  Montpelier. 

In  IjEiunching  forth  into  the  lake  in  a  few  miles  north,  the 
CameVs  Rump  and  the  Mansfield  Mountain^  two  of  the  loftiest 


Elizabeth— Euex— split  Rock— Whiteface  Mountain.    165 


peaks  of  the  Green  Mountain  range,  are  seen  in  all  their  dis- 
tinctive grandeur ;  the  Onion  River,  and  the  celebrated  Gulf 
Road  to  Montpelier,  leads  through  the  gorge  or  depression 
between  the  lofty  peaks  referred  to.    (See  Index.) 

Elizabeth  is  eight  miles  west  of  Lake  Champlain ;  is  a  shire 
town  and  a  post  village ;  has  the  Court-house  of  brick,  prison 
of  stone,  fire  proof  Clerk's  Office,  Stale  Arsenal  of  brick,  30 
dwellings,  three  taverns,  two  stores. 

Pleasant  Valley  is  drained  north-east  by  the  Bouquet  Ri- 
ver ;  Black  Creek  and  Roaring  Brook  have  other  vales.  The 
mountains  have  points  of  considerable  elevation.  The  Giants 
of  the  Valley  f  one  mile  south-west,  is  1,200  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  plain,  and  Rover^s  Hill^  on  the  east,  is  about  the 
same.  From  the  former  is  an  extensive  and  beautiful  view  of 
the  whole  valley  of  Lake  Champlain,  the  Green  Mountains, 
and  vales  of  Vermont,  and  of  Burlington,  Vcrgennes,  Mid- 
dlebury,  and  others,  Plattsburgh,  and  the  whole  west  shore 
of  the  Lake.  On  the  north-east  it  has  an  almost  perpendicular 
declivity  of  700  feet.  Iron  abounds,  and  iron  works  exist  on 
the  Boquet,  six  miles  above  Elizabeth,  at  Valley  Forge. 

Essex  is  a  post  village  and  landing-place  on  the  west  side 
of  the  lake,  on  a  handsome  plain,  and  has  60  dwellings,  one 
very  fine  Presbyterian  church,  two  stores  and  taverns.  The 
buildings  are  of  brick  or  limestone,  and  some  of  wood,  and 
gay,  with  extensive  gardens,  that  give  it  an  extent  of  three 
miles. 

Split  Rock  is  part  of  a  rocky  promontory  projecting  into 
the  lake  about  150  feet,  and  40  feet  above  the  water.  The 
broken-off  part  contains  half  an  acre,  covered  with  trees,  and 
is  20  feet  from  its  mate,  that  if  brought  together  would  make 
a  close  fit ;  through  this  cavity  a  line  has  been  dropped  500  feet 
without  finding  bottom. 

Whiteface  Mountain^  in  the  north  part  of  Essex  County,  is 
4,909  feet  above  tide,  and  is  so  named  from  a  slide  having  on 
one  side  laid  bare  the  rock,  that  has  a  grayish-white  appear- 
ance, &»d  is  feldspar  and  granite.  It  is  the  water-shed  of  the 
digtricl,  as  all  the  Urge  rivers  flowing  in  the  northern  coun- 
ties heve  their  origin  here,  either  in  marshes  or  lakes  at  the 
base  of  ^he  mountains  hereabouts,  or  they  rise  from  springs 
thRt  gush  from  their  sides  and  dash  in  slender  cataracts  over 
the  ciifTs  and  rocks,  as  they  commence  their  career  to  the  dis- 
tant ocean. 
From  tht  topmost  pinnacle  of  Whiteface,  30  or  30  lakes 


:\    i 


Burlington-^  Port  Kent— Port  Douglas, 


may  be  seen  clustering  at  the  feet  of  elevated  peaks,  and  on 
the  higrher  levels,  and  forming  a  beautiful  contrast,  by  their 
sparkling  and  silvery  expansions,  to  the  dark  forests  that  ex- 
tend to  the  horizon  on  every  side.  Long  Lake  is  18  miles  long 
and  six  broad,  and  flows  into  Racket  River,  and  through  St. 
Lawrence  County  into  the  river  of  that  name. 

As  proof  of  uncommon  height,  the  trees  in  this  locality  are 
alpine,  dwarfish,  and  but  a  few  feet  high,  with  stiff,  rigid 
branches,  on  which  a  person  may  walk,  and  this  region  is  not 
free  from  snow  three  months  in  the  year. 

Burlington,  Vermont,  the  next  landing-place,  on  a  deep  in- 
dentation on  the  east  shore  of  the  lake,  is  on  an  acclivity  that 
rises  upwards  of  300  feet,  and  appears  most  favorably  as  it  is 
approached.  The  streets,  and  houses,  and  public  buildings, 
.and  the  University  of  Vermont,  are  all  displayed  on  iheslope, 
and  command  an  extensive  view  of  the  lake,  and  of  the  high- 
est mountains  in  the  State  of  New- York.  There  are  300  or 
400  houses,  four  churches,  the  county  buildings,  and  a  bank; 
this  town  is  much  admired,  and  will  compete  with  many  others 
in  the  Eastern  States.  One  mile  and  a  half  to  the  north-east 
is  a  manufacturing  village  on  Onion  River,  at  the  falls.  This 
town  is  of  more  commercial  importance  than  any  other  in  the 
State  west  of  the  mountains,  and  much  traveling  passes 
through  it  from  Canada  and  from  the  east;  it  is  24  miles 
northwest  to  Plattsburg,  and  10  to  Port  Kent  directly  west. 

Port  Kent,  15  miles  south  of  Plattsburg,  the  next  place  of 
stopping,  and  for  Keeseville  four  miles  west,  has  16  dwell* 
ings,  storehouses,  and  is  the  port  for  the  lumber  and  iron 
trade  of  the  Au  Sable  River  and  mines.  The  expansive  view 
of  the  lake,  and  its  near  and  distant  islands,  and  headlands, 
and  of  Burlington,  and  other  places,  is  most  beautiful. 

Port  Douglas  a  little  beyond,  has  the  lauding  for  Clinton* 
ville  iron-works,  and  a  few  dwellings. 

Keeseville,  16  miles  south  of  Plattsburg,  has  200  dwellings 
and  1,200  inhabitants,  a  Baptist,  Presbyterian^  Methodist  and 
Catholic  church,  an  Academy,  and  four  schools,  a  bank,  the 
Essex,  capital,  $100,000,  and  the  focus  for  the  heavy  trade  in 
iron  and  lumber  of  the  \u  Sable  country,  and  being  on  the 
banks  of  that  river  is  partly  in  Essex  and  in  Clinton  Counties, 
and  has  a  rail-road  to  Port  Kent  four  and  three  quarter  miles. 
Land  near  the  town  sells  from  6  to  20  dollars  an  acre,  and 
the  inclination  of  the  country  is  higher  for  four  or  five  miles 
to  the  west.    There  are  two  falls  in  the  river,  one  of  13  and 


KeesevilU-^  Clintonville — Sweden. 


167 


one  of  18  feet,  100  yards  apart.  One  wool,  one  cotton  facto-^ 
ry,  five  saw  mills,  and  one  gang  mill  of  28  saws,  making  five 
millions  of  white  pine  boards  and  plank.  One  trip- hammer 
shop  and  five  fires,  one  rolling  and  slitting  and  nail  factory, 
making  annually  1,000  tons  nails,  one  cupola  furnace  and 
machine  shop,  one  tanner,  one  brewer,  two  taverns,  12  stores, 
two  grist  mills  of  five  and  three  run  of  stones.  Two  printing- 
offices  and  weekly  papers,  six  lawyers,  seven  physicians. 
Grain  is  brought  for  the  flouring  mills  from  Ohio,  via  Welland 
Canal  and  Ogdensburg.  The  newest  buildings  here  are  of 
stone,  and  very  durable  and  handsome. 

ClintonvilU  is  six  miles  west  of  Keesoville,  10  from  Port 
Kent  and  Port  Douglas,  and  20  south  of  Plattsburg,  and  has 
a  Methodist  and  a  Presbyterian  church,  four  schools,  two 
mills  for  rolling  and  slitting,  nails,  chain  cables,  grist  and 
saw,  one  forge  with  14  fires,  one  anchor  factory  of  three  fires, 
belonging  to  the  Peru  Iron  Company.  There  are  200  dwell- 
ings, four  stores,  one  tavern  ;  the  iron  used  here  is  from  the 
Arnold  mines,  three  miles  north-west ;  800  tons  of  iron  and  500 
tons  of  nails  are  made  annually  and  sent  to  New- York,  via 
Port  Douglas,  that  belongs  to  the  Company,  they  have  in  em- 
ploy 400  to  500  workmen,  and  pay  in  wages  $120,000  a  year, 
and  support  2,000  souls. 

Pursuing  the  valley  of  the  Au  Sable  for  40  miles  up  south- 
west, the  tourist  and  admirer  of  the  picturesque  will  enjoy  a 
feast  in  communing  with  the  beauties  of  nature,  that  cannot 
be  exceeded. 

Sweden,  two  miles  above  Clintonville,  has  two  stores,  three 
forges,  two  saw  mills,  and  at  the  forks,  three  miles  up,  are 
four  forges,  four  saw  mills,  two  stores,  a  trip-hammer,  &c. 
"This  valley  is  the  seat  of  industry. 

Birmingham,  at  ./^e^ga^e's  FallSf  two  and  a  half  miles  below 
Keeseville  near  the  mouth  of  the  Au  Sable,  has  a  few  dwell- 
ings and  a  forge,  a  mill,  &lc.  The  river  Au  Sable  is  here  like 
a  deep  canal  in  the  solid  rock,  with  many  falls  or  locks,  in 
stops  or  ledges  retreating  as  we  advance.  The  Great  Falls, 
three  miles  above  the  mouth,  and  three  west  of  Port  Kent, 
fall  over  a  precipice  of  80  feet  in  a  lock-chaml>er-like,  deep 
cavity,  the  walls  rising  60  to  100.  feet,  and  70  feet  wide,  and 
at  Haifa  mile  below  it  contracts  to  27  feet,  and  the  water  is 
35  feet  deep.  This  river  cuts  throujjh  a  ridge  that  opposes  its 
course,  the  top  being  level,  thus  forming  a  chasm  one  mile 
long,  with  walls  like  exact  masonry ;  the  depth  is  135  feet. 


I6t 


Peru. 


L  ."►.-■• '..^i;^:* 


k 


// 


There  are  other  chasms  in  different  directions,  but  dry  and 
partly  filled. 

Peru  is  four  miles  west  of  the  lake  and  20  south  of  Platts- 
burg,  and  has  100  dwellings,  five  stores,  a  Metttodist,  Con< 
gregational,  and  Roman  Catholic  church,  and  several  mills. 

We  now  draw  near  the  arena  of  important  naval  and  mili- 
tary events,  connected  with  the  late  war,  and  after  passing 
Valcour  and  Crab  Islands,  are  on  the  identical  spot  where 
the  battle  of  the  11th  of  September,  1814,  took  place  between 
the  American  and  English  squadrons,  that  decided  the  domin- 
ion as  to  this  lake  in  favor  of  the  former.  The  action  on 
shore  between  Sir  George  Prevost  and  Gen.  Macomb  had  the 
same  result,  viz.  the  defeat  of  the  English  in  their  attack  on 
the  American  lines. 

Commodore  M'Donough  with  his  fleet  of  a  ship,  brig, 
schooner,  and  a  sloop  and  five  gun  boats  on  each  f)auk,  were 
moored  in  line  north  and  south  from  Cumberland  Head  to- 
"wards  Crab  Island,  when  the  fleet  of  the  enemy  under  Com- 
modore Downie,  of  a  ship,  a  brig,  two  sloops,  and  12  gun 
boats  came  in  sight,  and  the  action  commenced  at  eight 
o'clock,  A.  M.  both  on  land  and  lake,  and  lasted  two  hours 
and  45  minutes.  The  forces  opposed  were  96  guns  and  1,050 
men  of  the  enemy,  and  86  guns  and  820  men  of  the  Ameri- 
cans  on  the  lake ;  but  the  disparity  on  shore  was  still  great- 
er, Sir  George  Prevost  having  14,000  men,  veterans,  mostly 
that  had  recently  arrived  from  the  Garonne  in  France,  after 
the  end  of  the  Peninsular  war  under  the  eye  of  Lord  Welling- 
ton, there  formed  a  division  under  Major  General  De  Rot- 
tenburg. 

This  imposing  force  came  sweeping  down  from  the  north ; 
the  Americans  retiring  before  them  from  the  Chazy  encamp- 
ment, and  the  left  wing  of  the  enemy  protected  and  commu- 
nicating with  their  gun  boats,  and  when  battle  commenced 
on  the  lake,  the  cannonade  began  ashore  and  the  enemy  ad- 
vanced boldly  with  scaling  ladders,  and  after  passine  the 
ford  of  the  Saranac  to  escalade  the  works  of  the  Americans, 
that  occupied  an  elevated  ridge  of  land  on  the  south  branch 
of  the  Saranac,  crowned  with  three  strong  redoubts  and  other 
field  works,  and  block  houses  armed  with  heavy  ordnance. 

The  forces  of  Sir  George  were  obliged  to  withdraw  from 
this  attack,  having  been  disheartened  by  seeing  the  want  of 
success  of  their  seamen,  as  the  want  of  co-operation  of  the 
fleet  left  no  inducement  to  prolong  the  contest.    This  must 


PUUUburg. 


",«T«'. 


!$•. 


have  betn  very  levere  as  it  lasted  but  two  hours,  and  he  loat 
2)500  men. 

Gen.  Macomb's  force  was  3,000  men  hastily  assembled  and 
undifciplined,  but  most  of  them  good  marksmen. 

Seldom  has  there  been  fought  in  this  country  a  battle  so 
decisive  and  brilliant  in  its  circumstances,  so  momentous  in 
its  result,  and  honorable  in  the  highest  degree  to  the  two  com* 
manders,  M'Donough  and  Macomb. 

Memorials  exist  in  the  burying  ground,  to  the  memory  of 
the  brave  Downie  and  other  officers  that  fell  on  both  sides, 
in  this  short  but  bloody  and  memorable  engagement.  The 
first  mentioned  (Commodore  Downie)  was  killed  by  the  voii^ 
of  a  cannon-ball,  without  being  touched.  The  remains  of  the 
works  thrown  up  are  in  the  Ticinily,  and  one  mile  north  is  the 
head  quarters  of  Sir  George,  and  marks  of  cannon-shot  are 
yet  visible  on  trees,  and  in  Beekmantown,  five  miles  north,  on 
a  hill  a  severe  contest  ensued,  and  Col.  Wellington  fell  and 
many  others. 

Plattaburg  is  prettily  laid  out  and  situated  at  the  head  of 
Cumberland  Bay,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saranac,  and  hasSOOto 
40O  dwellings  and  3,000  inhabitants,  a  Presbyterian,  Episco- 
pal, Methodist  and  Catholic  church,  a  bank,  capital,  $200,000, 
and  the  county  buildings,  two  printing-offices  and  paperSf 
two  large  hotels,  (one  temperance,)  20  stores,  two  cotton  and 
one  woollen  factories,  five  mills  for  sawing  marble  found  in, 
Isle  La  Motte. 

On  Cumberland  Head  is  the  farm  of  300  acres  presented  to 
M'Donough  by  the  State  of  New- York,  for  his  gallant  conduct. 

The  route  tor  a  canal  from  Plattsburg  to  Ogdensburgh  has 
been  surveyed  and  found  practicable,  and  also  a  rail-road. 

A  few  miles  south-east  of  Plattsburg  is  a  group  of  islands, 
and  the  arm  of  the  lake  that  leads  to  the  rivers  La  Motte  and 
Missisque,  and  bay  of  that  name,  and  to  Swanton,  St.  Albans, 
and  Highgate,  and  to  the  Canadian  border.     Marble  quer- 
ies exist  in  Swanton. 

The  North  and  the  South  Hero  are  two  islands  20  miles 
in  extent,  that  are  passed  on  the  east,  after  leaving  Plattsburg 
and  Cumberland  Head,  and  rounding  to  the  north;  the  Rams'' 
Head  on  the  we»t,  and  Isle  La  Motte  on  the  east,  are  passed 
in  succession  in  10  miles,  when  the  boat  arrives  at  Chazy 
landing,  15  miles  north  of  Plattsburg.  Chazy  landing  is  one 
mile  south  of  the  Little  Chazy,  end  three  from  the  village. 
Wttf  Chazy  has  30  dwellings,  and  a  few  mills,  (late  Law 

15 


mmm 


Champlain — Perrynville-^-tiomie' »  Point. 


It 


rence^g)  and  a  Methodist  Church.  Chazy  Village  has  50 
dwellings,  several  mills,  &c.  on  the  state  rotid  from  Albany  to 
Canada. 

The  outlet  of  the  Big  Chazy  River  is  in  the  bay,*  to  the  west 
of  Point  au  Fer,  a  headland  that  intrudes  boldly  into  the 
lake  from  the  west. 

Champlain  is  the  last  village  on  the  state  road  south  of  the 
frontier,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Big  Chazy  River,  five  miles 
from  the  lake ;  has  a  Presbyterian  and  Methodist  church,  40 
dv/ellings,  three  saw  and  one  grist-mill,  one  furnace,  one  tan- 
nery, one  carding  and  cloth-dressing  mill,  one  temperance 
house. 

Perrysville,  on  the  Chazy,  three  miles  west  of  Champlain, 
and  24  north-west  of  Plattsburgh,  has  25  dwellings,  one  grist 
and  saw-mill,  carding  and  cloth-dressing,  and  one  store. 

Corbeau,  at  the  confluence  of  Corbeau  River  and  Chazy, 
is  18  miles  north  of  Plattsburgh  ;  'las  a  Roman  Catholic 
church,  one  grist  and  one  saw-mill  of  stone,  and  20  dwellings. 

Rousse's  Pointf  23  miles  north  of  Plattsburgh,  has  a  Method- 
ist church,  20  dwellings,  a  temperance  house,  three  stores, 
and  is  a  place  where  much  smuggling  and  illicit  trade  is  car- 
ried on.  The  stone  fort  that  was  erected  here  by  the  United 
States,  under  the  false  and  careless  impression  that  it  was  in 
their  territory,  has  been  given  up.  It  was  gross  carelessness, 
to  say  the  least,  to  erect  such  an  expensive  work  without  be- 
ing certain  of  the  fact  of  legal  right  to  its  foundation.  The 
Sord  River  begins  at  Rousse's  and  Wind-mill  Point. 

Wind-mill  Point,  on  the  east  shore,  is  just  on  the  boundary, 
latitude  45°. 

Odletown,  in  Canada,  is  two  miles  west ;  Ash  Island  and 
fort,  and  La  Colle  Creek  on  the  west,  in  two  miles ;  and  the 
Isle  aux  Noix  and  fort,  in  seven  miles,  is  a  very  low  damp  spot 
on  the  west. 

The  River  Sorel,  or  Richlieu,  the  outlet  and  drain  of  Lake 
Champlain,  enters  the  St.  Lawrence  at  the  head  of  Lake  St. 
Peter,  at  Fort  William  Henry,  60  miles  north  from  Rousse's 
Point. 

The  country  on  both  sides  is  low,  dull,  and  uninteresting; 
an  inundated  swamp,  andean  never  be  of  any  importance  for 
cultivation,  though  a  few  feet  of  dry  land  and  a  few  huts  are 
to  be  seen,  but  no  settlement  worth  mentioning  for  20  miles  ; 
the  system  of  dyking,  as  in  Holland,  might  here  easily  be 
practiced  with  success,  if  the  land  is  of  value  to  meet  the 


8t,  Johnt, 


171 


outlay.  At  present  the  aspect  it  repulsive,  and  mosquitoes, 
agues,  and  fevers  predominate.  '^' 

St.  Johns  ja  at  the  head  of  the  Sorel,  here  1,000  yards  wide, 
and  here  is  the  termination  of  the  steam-boat  navigation,  160 
miles  from  Whitehall ;  fare,  $5. 

The  raiUroad  hence  to  La  Prairie  is  17  miles  direct,  and 
is  passed  in  one  hour,  the  country  bein^  very  level.  St.  Johns 
is  a  bustling  place,  has  150  houses  and  1,000  inhabitants,  and 
was  formerly  pn  important  military  post,  in  the  wars  of  1759- 
'63,  and  '76-'83,  but  was  taken  by  Gen.  Montgomery  on  his 
way  to  Quebec  in  1775,  as  was  also  Chamhly,  The  latter 
place  is  12  miles  further  down  the  Sorel,  and  has  been  one 
of  the  seats  of  the  troubles  and  rebellion  in  Canada,  and  has 
suffered  exceedingly  by  its  participation  in  those  calamitios. 
The  old  fort  in  ruins  is  venerable  in  its  walls  of  earth. 

A  ride  along  the  Sorel  or  Richlieu,  in  summer,  is  re- 
commended if  the  tourist  can  spare  the  time,  as  the  rippling 
river  and  the  white  cottages,  and  a  level  country,  with 
the  unchanged  appearance,  manners,  and  customs  of  the 
Canadians  or  habitans,  that  are  here  seen  as  they  were  200 
years  ago ;  their  wheelbarrow-size  carts  and  little  ponies  of 
the  true  hardy  Norman  breed ;  the  drivers  with  their  pipes 
and  sash  belts,  and  conical  woollen  caps  of  divers  colors» 
have  such  a  contrast  and  novel  effect,  compared  with  the 
United  States,  that  it  is  both  ludicrous  and  entertaining. 

From  Chambly  to  Longueil  is  15  miles,  a  two  or  three 
hours'  drive  over  a  flat  country,  fertile,  cultivated,  and  popu- 
lous, with  neat  and  comfortable  white  houses  made  of  logs, 
as  are  the  barns  ;  the  road  is  made  by  ditching  and  banking; 
hero  are  barracks  for  infantry  and  cavalry.  The  river  is  lively 
and  on  a  rocky  bottom,  and  rapid ;  Burton's  mills  are  near 
Chambly. 

A  glimpse  of  Montreal  is  had  before  arriving  at  La  Prairie 
oral  Longueil  that  is  quite  pleasing;  and  as  we  draw  nearer 
we  observe  its  tin-covered  houses  and  lofty  cathedral  domes 
and  steeples  glittering  in  the  sun-beams  ;  its  compact  series  of 
buildings  reaching  for  two  or  three  miles  on  the  shore,  and 
ascending  gradually  to  the  base  of  the  hill  that  rises  to  700 
feet,  covered  with  villas  and  fine  country-seats  ;  and  in  the 
majestic  St.  Lawrence,  its  expanse  ornamented  with  green 
forest-clothed  islands,  and  whitened  with  roaring  and  foaming 
rapids,  the  astonished  and  delighted  traveler  beholds,  at  once, 
a  superb  coup  d'ceil  and  landscape,  and  the  evidences  of  a 
great  and  thriving  northern  capital. 


1711 


Montreal. 


If 


Standing  on  the  bank  at  La  Prairie,  30  to  40  feet  high,  the 
La  Chine  Rapids  are  seen  on  the  left,  forming  a  swmy  lint 
8  to  10  miles  up,  extending  across  from  Caunaiwogti  to  La 
Chine  villages;  and  nearly  opposite  is  the  island  of  St.  Paul^ 
and  further  down,  past  the  city,  the  beautiful  St.  Helena^ 
swelling  out  with  its  rounded  forest-crowned  hills,  verdant 
and  beautiful,  its  forts,  entrenchments,  and  waving  flags.  It 
is  occupied  by  a  garrison,  and  the  families  of  the  officers  and 
other  employees  of  the  government.  A  neat  cottage  and  rus- 
tic pavilions  are  to  be  seen,  erected  for  Lord  and  Lady  Dal< 
housie :  it  has,  in  miniature  proportions,  its  wood-crowned 
steeps,  shady  glades,  and  open  meadows,  with  a  near  and  dis- 
tinct view  of  the  city. 

This  island,  one  mile  long  and  one  half  wide,  was  the  last 
foothold  of  'le  French  dominion  in  Canada,  and  fron\  above 
the  fort,  now  in  ruins,  waj  last  seen  the  white  standiird  and 
lily  that  at  one  time  fluttered  from  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the 
Mississippi.  On  the  west  point  of  the  island  the  tree  still 
flourishes  beneath  which  the  articles  for  ceding  the  Canadas 
were  agreed  upon.  Here  is  a  company  of  the  royal  artillery, 
an  extensive  dep6t  for  stores,  an  armory,  two  magazines, 
wit  6,000  barrels  of  gunpowder,  and  other  munitions  of  war. 
The  echoes  produced  by  the  morning  and  evening  gun  are 
very  fine.  This  island  has  all  the  attractions  nature  could  de- 
vise,  scattered  with  a  most  liberal  hand, — shade,  shrubs,  flow- 
ers, groves,  birds  of  beautiful  plumage,  fine  views,  winding 
walks,  &c. 


niontreal. 


■■'  H':i., 


The  passage  of  nine  miles  down  the  St.  Lawrence  is  rapidly 
effected  in  the  steam-boat  from  La  Prairie,  aided  by  a  strong 
current  and  bordering  rapids.  The  landing  is  somewhat  steep 
and  inconvenient,  and  in  wet  weather  sUppery  and  muddy; 
and  surmounting  such  trifles,  the  traveler  finds  himself  in  the 
midst  of  one  ot  the  principal  streets  of  the  city,  St.  Paul's, 
extending  parallel  with  the  river  for  miles.  Notre  Dame-street 
is  higher  up,  and  is  more  retired  and  genteel  for  private  resi- 
dences, the  former  being  occupied  more  particularly  for  busi- 
ness. The  streets  present  much  bustle  and  activity,  consequent 
upon  a  population  estimated  at  from  40  to  50,000.  The  lower 
itrceti  are  narrow  and  inconvenient,  as  compared  with  cities 


Mowlrtal. ' 


173 


in  the  United  Statei  irenernlly ;  but  the  houses  being,  in  pene- 
rol,  of  a  grayish  stone,  or  brici(,  and  tiled  or  covered  with  tin, 
have  a  massive  and  heavy,  hut  durable  appearance.  The 
streetg  in  the  more  recent  parts  are  wider  and  better. 

Montreal  is  in  latitude  45°  3F,  and  is  oOO  miles  from  the 
mouth  of  the  noble  river  St.  Lawrence,  and  180  above  Que- 
bee,  and  200  below  Lake  Ontario,  380  from  New-York,  300 
from  Boston. 

It  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  island  and  seignory 
of  Montreal,  that  is  32  miles  long  and  10^  broad,  and  forms 
the  county  ;  and  has  nine  parishes,  Montreal,  La  Chine,  St. 
Anne,  St.  Genevieve,  Sault  au  ReroUet,  Point  au  Tremble, 
Point  Clare,  St.  Laurent,  Longue  Point,  Rivier  des  Prairies. 

It  is  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation,  and  ships  drawing  15 
feet  can  lie  close  to  the  shore;  the  general  depth  is  3  to  4( 
fathoms.  The  rapids  of  St.  Mary,  IJ  miles  below,  is  so  pow- 
erful that  the  current  cannot  be  stemmed  by  ships  without  a 
strong  north-east  wind,  or  four  yoke  of  oxen  to  aid. 

The  immense  fur  trade,  of  the  yearly  value  of  £256,000 
sterling,  of  the  Hudson  and  North-West  Companies,  now 
united,  is  concentrated  at,  and  directed  from,  this  city ;  and 
hero  their  voyageurs  start  from,  and  return  after  months  and 
years  of  absence.  The  city  that  had  within  its  pallisadcs  ori- 
ginally but  100  acres,  now  covers  more  than  1,200. 

The  number  and  great  size  of  the  public  edifices  is  sur- 
prising to  a  citizen  of  the  United  States.  The  General  Hospi- 
tal, or  Covvent  of  the  Gray  Sisters,  is  678  feet  front  on  the 
little  St.  Pierre  River,  and  is  a  refuse  and  poor-house  for  the 
infirm  and  destitute,  founded  in  1750.  The  Hotel  Dieuis  324 
front,  and  468  feet  deep,  and  has  a  bevy  of  nuns  that  devote 
themselves  to  the  care  of  the  sick  of  both  sexes;  it  was 
founded  in  1664.  The  Convent  of  J^olre  Dame  is  234  feet  by 
433,  and  is  a  seminary  for  the  education  of  females. 

The  Cathedral  of  Notre  Dame,  that  will  hold  10,000  people, 
is  255  feet  lonsr,  and  is  situated  in  the  street  of  that  name, 
and  is  the  most  imposing  edifice  in  the  city  or  in  Canada, 
towerinsr  up  above  all  other  buildings,  but  is  rather  awk- 
wardly placed  across  the  Place  d'Armes. 

The  English  Cathedral  is  a  splendid  building,  but  not  as 
large  as  the  other. 

The  Seminary  of  St.  Sulpice  occiiphn  three  sides  of  a  square, 
132  feet  by  90,  with  spacious  gardens;  founded  1657. 

The  Petit  Seminaire,  or  New  College,  is  in  the   Rccollet 

U* 


174 


Montreal. 


suburbs,  210  feet  by  45,  with  a  wing  at  each  end,  186  feet  by 
45,  and  is  an  appendnge  of  the  preceding. 

La  Maison  des  Prilres,  formerly  the  Chateau  des  Scignenrs 
de  Montreal,  is  near  the  mountain,  and  is  also  attached  to 
the  two  preceding,  and  is  a  large  building  of  stone,  with  a 
massy  wall  enclosing  extensive  gardens,  and  is  resorted  to 
once  a  week  by  the  superiors  and  pupils  for  health  and  re- 
creation. With  the  exception  of  the  mountain,  the  ridge  of 
the  coteau  St.  Pierre,  and  one  or  two  smaller  ones  of  no 
fivcBt  elevation,  the  island  exhibits  a  level  surface,  watered 
by  several  little  rivers  and  rivulets,  that  turn  numerous  grist 
and  saw-mills  in  the  interior,  while  many  more  around  the 
island  are  worked  by  the  great  rivers.  From  the  city  to  the 
east,  the  shores  are  15  to  20  feet  above  the  St.  Lawrerice,  but 
in  the  opposite  direction,  towards  La  Chine,  they  are  low,  and 
between  the  coteau  St.  Pierre  and  the  river,  the  land  is  flat, 
and  near  the  lake  marshy,  and  the  La  Chine  Canal  cut  through 
thus  avoids  the  rapids  of  St.  Louis. 

Nelson's  monument  is  on  one  of  the  public  squares  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  public  market. 

The  Parade  will,  of  course,  be  frequented  by  the  stranger 
when  the  troops  are  exercised,  or  their  fine  bands  of  music 
are  to  be  heard.  The  number  of  regular  troops  in  the  Cana* 
das,  at  this  time,  is  20,000. 

0    The  Barracks  were  formerly  occupied  by  the  old  Francis- 
can monks. 

The  College  is  three  stories  liijc;h,  with  a  Urge  yard  and 
gardens,  and  has  300  pupils;  $80  a  year  is  the  expense  of 
tuition,  &c.  The  Court-house,  and  the  Government-house, 
and  Bank. 

The  soil  of  the  island  is  excellent,  and  productive  in  grains, 
vegetables,  and  fruits,  and  is  pre-eminent  over  any  other  in 
Lower  Canada.  Roads  run  from  north-east  to  south-west, 
nearly  parallel,  and  are  crossed  by  others  at  convenient  dis- 
tances, that  form  a  complete  and  easy  communication  in 
every  direction.  A  turnpike  and  canal  to  La  Chine,  seven 
miles,  takes  all  the  goods  for  Upper  Canada.  Within  this  space 
there  is  groat  variety,  and  some  very  romantic  prospects. 

Eight  per  cent,  tax  is  exacted  for  any  alienation  or  trans- 
fer of  real  estate  on  the  island  of  Montreal,  for  the  benefit 
of  the  Convent  and  Roman  Catholic  religion ;  but  this  has 
been  resisted.  v 

There  are  many  good  {.ublic  houses  in  the  city — Good- 


*>>. 


■..t>ii. 


:.*  *!■ 


La  Chine — Varenmi, 


175 


1  i 


«nough*i,  and  the  Mansion-House,  in  St.  Paul-street,  (he 
tatter  on  the  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  with  a  terrace  of  144 
feet  long  and  30  wide,  thr.t  commands  a  capital  view  of  the 
hfirbor  and  islands  and  the  distant  shores ;  the  Masonic 
Hall,  &c. 

Rafts  of  logs  and  ship-timber  line  the  shores  below  the 
city,  and  on  these  and  other  favorable  positions  the  French 
Canadian  washerwomen  are  seen  in  large  concourse,  all 
gabbling,  laughing,  and  splashing  amid  the  water,  half-leg 
deep ;  and  the  carts,  with  casks,  lading  and]  filling  farther 
ont  in  the  stream. 

A  mile  or  two  from  town,  near  the  tanneries,  tho  road  as- 
cends a  steep  hill,  and  keeps  on  a  high  ridge  for  more  than 
three  miles,  commanding-  a  beautiful  view  over  the  cultivated 
fields  below,  the  rapids  of  St.  Louis,  the  islands  in  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  the  varied  woodland  scenery  on  the  opposite 
shore;  descending  from  the  height  it  passes  over  a  flat  coun- 
try until  it  reaches  La  Chine.  This  is  a  place  of  more  import- 
ance than  any  other  village  on  the  island,  and  the  centre  of 
commerce  between  the  upper  and  lower  provinces  and  the 
north-west.  There  are  few  dwellings,  but  many  store-houses 
of  the  merchants  and  of  the  Indian  department. 

An  excursion  throughout  the  island  of  Montreal  is  replete 
with  interest;  the  rapids  of  La  Chine  and  Si.  Anne,  at  the 
south-west  extremity  of  the  island,  and  of  the  Cedree^  a  few 
miles  beyond,  and  others  that  are  still  more  remote,  10  to  30 
mile;;,  such  as  the  Long  Saulty  can  easily  be  reached  in  a  short 
time,  and  should  by  no  means  be  omitted  by  all  strangers  that 
can  spare  the  time,  and  may  never  be  so  near  again.  Tho^e 
coming  down  from  Niagara,  and  across  the  lake  to  Kingston, 
Ogdensburg,  and  Montreal,  will  of  course  have  this  enjoy- 
ment in  due  course. 

La  Chine  is  nine  miles  from  the  city,  and  a  canal  exists  to 
pass  boats  round  the  rapids,  and  a  trip  is  thus  easy  and  cheap. 

Varennesy  15  miles  below  Montreal,  is  a  lovely  village,  and 
may  be  easily  visited  by  stage  or  carriage  along  the  bank  of 
the  river,  or  by  steam-boat,  as  it  is  one  of  the  regular  landing- 
places.  The  hotel  enjoys  a  liberal  support,  and  also  fine  views 
of  the  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  the  island  of  St.  Helens, 
and  Montreal,  and  of  an  archipelago  of  lovely  islands,  and 
the  distant  Chambly  and  other  mountains.  There  is  an  at- 
tractive spring  here  of  some  celebrity. 

The  summit  of  Montreal  Mountain  will  come  in  for  a  visit 


176 


Excursion  from  Montreal  to  Quebec. 


in  perambulating^  around  the  environs  of  the  city  ;  it  is  only 
distant  about  two  miles:  the  view  extends  to  the  nlmont 
stretch  of  vision,  and  the  St.  Lawrence  is  seen  in  all  its  eran- 
deur  and  width,  the  city  and  St.  Helens  hein^;  immedintely 
beneath  the  eye  ;  an  early  morning's  visit  is  recommended,  so 
as  to  be  on  the  top  at  sun-riae,  or  r'..>n  after;  the  morning 
here  dawns  in  Juno  soon  after  2  o'clock,  and  the  twilight  at 
evening!  continues  till  10. 

The  Sanlt  mi  Recollet,  ei^ht  miles  west  of  the  city,  is  also  an 
interesting  spot,  opposite  Isle  .Jesus,  where  there  are  several 
stone  mills,  and  a  fishing  station  owned  by  the  monks  of  St. 
Sulpice.  Standing  on  a  green  point  a  few  feet  above  the 
river,  in  front  is  the  Sanlt  or  Chute,  foaming  like  the  ocean 
in  a  gale,  or  dashing  amongst  reefs  of  rocks ;  at  half  a  mile 
beyond  is  the  very  spacious  mill  with  lofty  walls,  thick,  and 
pierced  by  narrow  windows,  with  steep,  red  roofs,  o'^rtopped 
by  a  grove  of  noble  trees. 


Excursion  from  IVIonfreal  to   Quebec. 

Daily  trips  are  made,  in  the  summer,  between  these  im- 
portant  cities,  and  the  price  is  commonly  $4  going  down; 
time,  12  hours.  The  steamers  are  usually  of  the  largest  and 
safest  description,  and  have  hitherto,  with  one  eiception,'^ 
been  exempt  from  those  terrible  explosions  and  reckless  loss 
of  life  that  have  been  too  often  experienced  on  the  Ohio  and 
Mississippi,  the  great  American  lakes,  and  along  the  borders 
of  the  coast. 

After  bidding  adieu,  for  a  time,  to  the  city  of  Montreal,  the 
attention  of  the  tourist  will  be  engaged  by  the  novelty  at  first 
that  will  be  presented  in  rapidly  gliding  past  the  lovely  island 
of  St.  Helens,  and  over  the  rapids  of  St.  Mary,  where  the 
current  rushes  with  impetuosity  six  miles  an  hour,  or  at  that 
rate  for  a  short  distance,  but  soon  slackens  as  the  river  ex- 
pands, to  two  or  three  miles  an  hour,  and  the  width  also  va- 
ries from  a  half  to  three  fourths,  and  two  to  four  miles  ;  and 
the  attractive  village  of  Varennes,  and  the  neat  white  houses, 
soon  is  presented,  with  its  church  and  high-pointed  and 
double-turreted  towers,  and  a  lofty  cross  near  by  of  50  feet. 

*  The  destruction  by  fire  in  June,  1839,  of  the  splendid  steamer  John 
Bull. 


St.  Franeit—Orand  River Sor el. 


\rt 


The  low  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  that  stretch  away  far 
and  wide,  and  seen  in  some  places  hardly  above  the  level  of 
the  river,  as  we  are  in  mid-channel  in  some  of  the  wide  ex- 
p-'.nses,  soon  become  tiresome  from  the  sameness,  though  we 
are  seldom  out  of  sight  of  houses,  villages,  and  churches  on 
both  sides  of  the  river;  the  houses  of  one  story,  except  the 
seigneurs,  are  white-washed  once  a  year,  roof  and  all.  The 
churches  are  covered  with  tin  that  dazzles  the  eye  with  the 
reflected  snn-beams. 

Each  lot  and  house  has  a  narrow  front  upon  the  river,  but 
the  extent  in  the  rear  is  enormous  and  disproportioned,  two  to 
three  or  four  miles;  this  brings  forward  the  entire  population, 
like  an  immense  street  of  endless  continuance,  so  gregarious 
and  fond  of  society  and  companionship  are  the  peasants;  and 
the  mansion  of  the  Seigneur  is  distinguished  only  by  its  su- 
perior size,  and  the  churches  have  one  to  three  spires,  and 
are  emblazoned  with  tin. 

St.  Francis  and  Point  Tremble,  on  the  left,  and  Boucheville 
on  the  right,  are  passed  soon  after  leaving  the  city,  in  seven 
miles,  and  then  the  mouth  of  the  Ottawas,  or  Grand  River,  on 
the  left,  with  a  bridge  to  cross  to  the  north  bank,  opposite 
Cape  St.  Michael  on  the  east  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Grand  River  has  its  origin  in  that  system  of  large  and  small 
lakes  and  bodies  of  water  that  exist  between  Lake  Huron  anu 
Montreal,  and  that  are  very  little  known  to  the  people  of  the 
United  States;  but  the  Ottawas  is  a  wide  and  important 
stream,  and  has  many  falls  and  carrying-places,  and  by 
means  of  the  Rideau  CanaU  to  be  described,  (see  In- 
dsx,)  is  the  interior  route  to  Kingilon^  on  Lake  Ontario. 
The  canal  begins  120  miles  west  from  Montreal,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Rideau  River,  entering  the  Ottawa,  and  pursues  a  ge- 
neral south-west  course. 

Sord,  or  the  Richlieu,  45  miles  from  Montreal,  is  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  of  that  name,  forming  the  outlet  of  Lake 
Champlain.  The  shore  is  bold,  and  the  boats  lie  close  to  the 
banks  to  wood.  The  present  town  dates  from  1785,  being 
then  settled  by  loyalists  and  disbanded  soldiers.  The  fort  of 
William  Henry  is  on  the  site  of  one  erected  in  1665,  by  order 
of  De  Tracy,  by  Sorel,  the  engineer.  The  houses  are  about 
170,  besides  stores,  barracks,  and  government  edifices, 
covering,  perhaps,  120  acres.  The  plan  is  regular,  and 
the  streets  intersect  at  right  angles,  with  a  pfiUic  square  in 
the  centre  of  500  feet  each  side.    The  bouses  ar«  of  wood,  th« 


il 

\ 


// 


173 


Troi»  Rivierer, 


churches  of  stone;  the  population  1,500.  General  Thomas 
here  died  in  1776,  on  the  retreat  of  the  Americans  from 
Quebec. 

Rivers,  usually,  are  much  wider  at  their  embouchure  than 
Bt  their  head  ;  but  this  is  the  reverse,  being  hero  only  250 
yards  wide,  but  up  towards  the  lake  it  is  four  times  that 
breadth.     Here  vessels  of  150  tons  can  ascend  only  14  miles. 

Many  islands  occur  for  the  next  few  miles,  and  the  river  is 
bewildered  among  the  channels,  when  gradually  the  lake  of 
St.  Peter  is  unfolded  to  the  view,  20  to  25  miles  long,  and  10 
miles  wide,  shallow ;  the  water  of  a  green  color,  the  shores 
flat  and  swampy;  no  sensible  current  or  motion,  but  smooth 
and  lake-like. 

Trois  Rivieres,  halfway  between  Montreal  and  Quebec,  U 
the  third  town  in  size,  and  quite  a  large  place,  and  has  320 
houses,  and  2,500  inhabitants ;  was  founded  in  1619,  and  €&• 
tends  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  fronting  the  river. 

The  St.  Maurice  River  enters  from  the  north,  and  rises  160 
miles  north-west,  near  the  head  waters  of  streams  (hat  fall 
into.lames's  Bay.  The  Beacon  course  is  on  (he  south.  In  23 
miles  from  lako  St.  Peter's  we  are  at  St.  Anne's ;  for  the  last 
named  distance,  the  north  side  of  this  river  might  sit  for  the 
same  portrait  as  the  Mississippi,  with  a  natural  levee  at  a  like 
elevation,  and  dead  level ;  and  behind  this  are  poor  huts, 
badly  built  and  painted,  and  still  beyond  them  is  a  dreary 
forest  of  half- naked  trees,  with  not  a  single  gap  or  rise  along 
the  hazy  line  of  the  horizon  resting  upon  them. 

As  the  Richlieu  Rapids  are  approached,  the  river  again 
becomes  interesting;  the  banks  are  once  more  broken  and 
irregular;  numerous  churches  appear,  (having  domes  and 
spires  like  the  befrois  of  Normandy,  only  that  they  are  roofed 
with  tin,)  and  shoot  above  each  wooded  knoll ;  and  the 
whirls,  and  boils,  and  commotions  amongst  reefs  of  irregular 
rocks,  some  hidden,  others  visible,  impel  the  boat  at  a  great 
speed  for  such  a  ticklish  and  terrific  navigation,  where  the 
river  is  very  narrow,  and  the  current  rushes,  with  noise  and 
tumult,  over  a  rocky  bottom.  It  is  esteemed  too  dangerous  for 
night  navigation. 

From  Cape  Rouge,  so  called  ^rom  its  red  hue,  produced  by 
oxide  of  iron,  the  precipitous  b.,nk  continues  on  the  north, 
or  leff,  as  we  proceed,  for  seven  miles,  in  an  uninterrupted 
range  of  high  ground,  that  becomes  higher  and  higher.  The 
mouth  of  the   Chaudiere,  six  miles  from  Quebec,  is  passed 


,jl.^ 


Vicinity  of  Quebec — Lower  Canada. 


179 


coming  in  from  the  soutli,  where,  at  ita  mouth,  is  a  great  lum> 
ber  establishment  of  saw-mills  at  the  fails  to  be  described,  and 
where  ships  load  with  timber  for  England. 

At  length  the  distant  towers  of  the  famous  city  are  descried : 
the  banks  increase  in  loftiness  ;  in  two  miles  Sillery  Cove  and 
river  are  pointed  out,  then  in  one  mile  and  a  half  Wolfe^a 
Cove,  the  Marldlo  towers  on  ihe  heights  of  Abraham,  round 
and  mounted  with  cannon,  placed  in  advance  of  the  grand 
batteries,  and  long  lines  of  defence,  constructed  of  stone 
with  all  the  art  and  skill  of  the  engineer,  are  perceived,  as  we 
draw  nearer,  to  extend  along  the  verge  of  the  precipice  of 
naked  rock,  that,  at  a  height  of  340  feet,  t<^rminates  in  the 
high  ramparts  and  circular  castle  bearing  proudly  aloft  the 
red  cross  of  England  on  the  pinnacle  of  Cape  Diamond. 

The  scene  increases  in  breathless  interest  every  moment ; 
forests  of  tall  masts  of  hundreds  of  British  ships  are  seen 
dong  the  shore;  the  grim  and  powerful  batteries,  where  all 
the  ingenuity  of  military  skill  has  been  exhausted  to  produce 
another  Gibraltar,  is  seen  on  the  left ;  while  on  the  right  is 
Point  Levi,  with  its  soft  wooded  brow  and  brilliant  white 
houses,  also  on  a  precipice  of  rock,  (but  rather  less  elevated 
than  Cape  Diamond)  and  where,  in  1759,  General  Monckton, 
by  order  of  General  Wolfe,  erected  batteries  to  bombard 
Quebec. 

The  ruins  of  the  Chateau  of  St.  Louis,  as  we  approach 
dose  to  the  lower  town,  are  an  object  of  very  prominent  in- 
terest in  the  approach  to  this  truly  picturesque  capital. 

IJontniorenci,  with  its  valley  and  long  and  straggling  su- 
burb, then  is  disclosed  to  the  view,  and  the  beautiful  bay,  en- 
circled by  ioi>ountains,  with  nobly  formed  and  swelling  shores, 
bounded  by  the  Isle  of  Orleans,  four  miles  off,  and  by  a  de- 
lightful country  on  the  north  and  north-east,  with  the  St. 
Charles  and  Montmorenci  Rivers  falling  into  the  bay,  that 
sweeps  most  gracefully  round  like  a  bow,  and  presents.  In  a 
long  circuit,  snow-white  cottages,  handsome  country  houses, 
populous  viD&ges,  that  extend  for  miles  in  continued  streets, 
and  forms  the  mbst  perfect  coup  d'ceil  and  unrivalled  pano- 
rama. 

Loi¥er  Canada* 

embracing  from,  and  including,  Montreal,  to  the  Gulf,  and 
&oth  sides  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  baa  a  population  of  600,000 


ili 


i(  ti 


180 


Quebec, 


to  700,000.  Q,uebec  and  its  suburbs  contain  3,000  houiei  nnd 
30,000  inhabitants,  not  differing  much  in  these  respects  from 
Montreal.  The  vessels  resorting  to  the  port  are  about  1 ,000 
during  the  short  season  of  five  or  six  months.  The  Indian 
namo  for  a  village,  Kaw-naw-daw,  being  often  repeated  by 
them  to  the  French,  when  Jacques  Cartier  first  sailed  up  the 
river,  was  adopted  by  the  latter  as  the  supposed  name  of  the 
country,  .„  ;  ^ ,, 

This  proud  castellated  seat  of  the  British  domain  in  North 
America  (latitude  46°  69'  15^',  longitude  7F  13')  is  situated 
on  and  around  a  bold  promontory,  on  the  north-west  side  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  with  the  river  St.  Charles  on  the  north- 
west, the  confluence  of  the  latter  with  the  former  being  at  the 
spacious  bay  that  salutes  the  delighted  traveler  as  he  arrives 
at  the  wharf  at  the  lower  town,  and  terminates  his  transient 
stoam-boat  connection.  .H 

As  a  river  eminent  for  grandeur  in  its  prolonged  passage  of 
about  400  miles,  from  the  rapids  of  Richlieu  to  the  galf,  amid 
rocky  and  even  mountainous  barriers,  and  for  its  immense 
volume  and  depth  of  water  in  that  great  distance,  this  river 
is  unequalled ;  also,  in  the  swell  of  the  oceanic  influence  that 
pervades  up  to  the  rapids  above  mentioned*  The  width  of  the 
stream  is  1,134  yards,  opposite  from  the  city  to  point  Levi,  the 
depth  30  fathoms,  forming  a  cube  or  prism  180  feet  by  3,402. 
The  momentum  or  current  of  this  immense  body  of  water, 
moving  with  a  si>eed  of  three  or  four  miles  an  hour,  can  be 
imagined,  as  it  is,  supeilatively  grand  and  imposing,  and 
when  suddenly  disruptured  after  being  covered  with  thick 
ribbed  ice  and  winter's  mantle  of  snow  several  months, 
it  then  becomes  terrific,  awful,  and  sublime,  the  loud  cracks 
and  harsh  thundering  groans  of  the  upheaving  and  tumbling 
masses  of  icr  that  impinge  and  crush  on  each  other  in  the 
wildest  tumuL  and  confusion,  fill  the  mind  with  dread  and 
apprehension. 

There  does  not  appear  to  be  any  material  difference  in  the 
climate  at  the  present  from  the  earliest  times  ;  the  winter's 
cold  and  summer's  heat  being  both  felt  to  the  extreme  of  hu- 
man endurance,  from  30®  below  zero,  to  100  above,  Fahren- 
belt's  scale. 

The  form  of  the  city  is  triangular,  the  base,  from  the  St. 
Lawrence  on  the  south,  one  mile  across  the  plains  of  Abra- 
ham, north  to  the  St.  Charles  River,  being  the  banlieUf  or 
Bouth-weit  limit  of  the  city,  and  the  two  rivers,  as  above  stat- 


PuhHo  Edi/kety  8f€.  in>  Qaebee^ 


181 


«d,  sikI  mating  nt  the  nortli<ea»t  point  of  the  town,  forming 
the  »ides  and  the  apex^  the  entire  circuit  being  three  milei. 

The  Q,uebee  Esccktmj^e,  and  Library,  and  Reading-room,  pre* 
smta  itself,  immediurtely  on  landing,  to  tiie  notice  of  the  8tran> 
ger,  and  is  situated  at  the  east  end  of  St.  Paul-street ;  the 
ground,  that  trovcra  10,000  superficial  feet,  cost  £1,000.  It  is 
a  neat  edifice,  of  cut  stone.  The  reading-room  in  the  second 
story  is  50  feet  long,  30  wide,  t6  high,  and  from  the  windows 
is  a  complete  view  of  the  basin  and  river.  The  Library  and 
Board  of  Trade  are  in  the  room  above  ;  the  Exchange  below, 
where  merchants  movt  do  congregate. 

Not  far  from  the  Exchange  is  the  Trinity  House,  in  St.  Pe- 
<v«r*8treet,  a  corporate  body  for  the  regulation  of  the  pilots  of 
the  river.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  Exchange  many  large  new 
wareliouses  have  recently  been  constructed,  and  wharves 
made  on  land  recently  redeemed  from  the  water. 

The  King's  Wharf  ii  the  place  of  embarkation  and  landing 
of  the  troops,  and  for  the  use  of  the  army  and  navy  officers, 
governor,  &c.  Hero  is  the  storehouse  of  the  Commissariat 
iitpartmentf  of  stone,  350  feet  long,  the  whole  under  the  pro- 
tection of  a  guard  in  a  house  adjacent. 

The  Custom  House,  adjoining  the  foregoing  premises,  is  a 
plain  ston^  edifice,  well  adapted  and  convenient,  and  the  pub* 
lie  or  long  room  is  worth  examination. 

There  was  a  barrier  in  former  times  nearly  opposite  tho 
'cuttom-house,  where  Ihe  passages  diverge,  one  to  the  steps 
leading  to  thci  upper  town,  and  the  other  to  the  harbor ;  and 
near  this  Gen.  Montgomery  was  killed,  December  31,  1776. 
An  iron  ring  in  the  precipice  near  by,  formerly  used  in  moor* 
ing  ships,  may  aUo  aid  to  distinguish  the  spot  where  he  fell. 
The  inclined  plane  of  560  feet  long,  leading  to  the  c't<«del 
from  the  lower  town,  may  here  be  seen  within  a  short  dis- 
tanctj,  and  also,  in  a  furlong,  the  place  of  difficult  ascent  from 
the  river,  up  the  steep  hill,  1o  the  plains  of  Abraham,  by 
which  the  brave,  undaunted,  and  immortal  General  Wolfe, 
-and  the  British  troops,  crept  and  scrambled  up  to  the  summit 
of  the  heights,  and  established  themselves  in  line  to  receiiro 
the  attack  of  the  French,  under  Montcalm,  that  resulted  in 
the  defeat  of  the  latter  in  1759,  and  the  prostration  of  French 
(power  in  Canada. 

Besides  the  plane,  with  the  machinery  at  top,  worked  by 
steam,  drawing  up  large  trucks  and  masses  of  stone,  cannon, 
stores,  and  all  heavy  weights,  on  the  rail-way,  Irom  the  wa- 

16 


■OHM 


182 


Portijicaiiona  on  Cape  Diamond, 


ter's  edge  to  the  aummil  of  Cape  Diamond,  there  isa  separata 
path  of  600  steps,  that  leads  from  the  upper  to  the  lower  town. 
Cape  Diamond  is  a  mass  of  dark  slate,  containing  limpid 
quartz  cryatalt,  in  veins,  with  cryatalized  carbonate  of  lime 
— hence  the  name  it  bears.  •    • '.. 


// 


Fortifications  on  Cape  Diamond. 

The  entrance  to  the  Citadel,  that  is  200  feet  higher  than 
the  rock  or  ground  that  sustains  the  upper  town,  is  by  a 
winding  road  through  the  acclivity  of  the  glacis  from  St.  Lou- 
is' Gate,  that  is  on  the  south  west,  and  together  with  St.  John's 
Gate,  has  out-works  of  the  greatest  strength  and  combination. 
This  leads  into  the  exterior  ditch  of  the  ravelin,  and  then  into 
the  principal  ditch,  between  walls  of  solid  masonry  to  tha 
right  and  left.  '        "^      ^       ^    ^.     U       .V 

Dalhousie  Gale  is  the  main  entrance,  and  within  the  mas- 
sive arch  are  the  main  guard^rooms,  and  in  front  is  a  spa* 
cious  area  or  parade-ground,  formed  by  the  angles  and  face 
of  the  bastion;  in  the  face  are  loopholes  for  the  fire  of  mu8> 
ketry,  and  on  the  top  are  embrasures  for  cannon.  The  loop' 
holes  serve  to  admit  air  and  light  into  the  casemated  barrackik 
within,  that  are  commodious,  comfortable,  safe,  and  fire  and 
missilo-proof  quarters. 

,,  On  the  top  of  the  bastion  is  a  covered  way  and  gravel  walk, 
with  cannon  ]>ointing  to  every  part  of  the  ditch  and  glacis, 
and  avenue  of  approach;  here  is  the  finest  view  of  the  har< 
bor  and  surrounding  panorama;  the  telegraph  at  the  east, 
on  the  summit  of  the  cavalier  of  the  citadel,  is  another  fine 
point  of  view,  as  is  the  observatory  on  the  west  towards  the 

Elains.  Within  the  citadel  are  the  magazine,  armory,  stores 
ouses,  and  other  buildings  for  the  large  garrison ;  and  the 
mess-rooms  and  barracks  for  the  officers,  covered  with  tin, 
are  seen  from  afar  in  every  direction  as  a  bright  and  lumin- 
ous object,  the  latter  standing  on  the  verge  of  the  precipice 
to  the  south,  with  a  bird's-eye  view ;  directly  beneath  iss  a  fine 
row  of  buildings  of  cut  alone,  with  a  paved  terrace  in  front. 

This  fortress  combines  every  invention  of  science  and  pre* 
caution  of  art  that  consummate  skill  and  ingenuity  could 
suggest  for  the  protection  and  security  of  the  city  and  garri- 
son. The  area  of  the  space  and  works  within  the  citadel 
alone  is  40  acres.  The  fortifications  are  continued  around  the 


■A^'*i 


.'  Public  Fromenade^  Palace  Gate—Hope  Gate.         183 


ttpper  town  in  bastions  and  lofty  curtains  of»oIid  masonry, 
and  ramparts  of  35  to  30  feet  high,  and  of  equal  thickness, 
bristling  with  heavy  cannon,  round  towers,  loop-holed  walU, 
and  massive  gates  at  intervals. 

Public  Promenade. — This  is  on  the  summit  of  the  ramparts, 
from  Cape  Diamond  i^.o  the  artillery  barracks,  near  Palace 
Gate,  and  is  a  broad  covered  way,  that  has  an  agreeable  view 
toward  the  west,  passing  over  the  gates  of  St.  John  and  St. 
Louis.  The  scene  at  sun-set  is  one  of  gorgeous  and  sur- 
passing splendor. 

The  city,  that  is  defended  on  the  land  side  by  its  ramparts, 
has  on  the  other  a  lofiy  wall  and  parapet,  based  on  the  cliff, 
beginning  near  the  River  St.  Charles  at  the  ArlUltry  Bar- 
racks. These  were  erected  by  the  French  in  1750.  They 
are  of  stone,  two  stories  high,  600  feet  long  and  40  wide, 
with  a  garden  and  appurtenances  that  denote  comfort  and 
neatness. 

Palace  Gate,  that  adjoins  the  barracks  just  alluded  to,  and 
connects  the  works  on  the  left,  with  their  continuation  along 
the  St.  Charles,  has  a  guard-house  on  the  right.  The  gate  is 
tlie  most  elegant  and  chaste  in  point  of  architecture,  and  is  at 
the  north  end  of  Palacestreet,that  led  to  the  Intendant's  house 
or  palace,  that  stood  on  the  banks  of  the  St.  Charles,  on  the 
lite  of  the  Wood  Yard. 

From  Palace  Gate  the  lines  continue  on  the  verge  of  the 
cliff  to  Hojie  Gate,  300  yards ;  a  broad  and  level  walk  sepa- 
rates the  outward  wall  from  the  Hotel  Dieu.  The  wall  near 
Hope  Gate  and  guard-house  is  loop-holed  for  musketry,  and 
the  works  here  present  a  lofty  and  frowning  front,  and  pro- 
ject over  the  rugged  cliff.  Midway  between  the  St.  Charles* 
side  and  the  gat€,  a  very  picturesque  view  of  the  rock  and 
the  works  may  be  obtained. 

At  Hope  Gate  begins  tho  rise  of  the  rock,  that  ends  at  the 
east  point  of  Cape  Diamond.  Beyond  the  gate,  the  wall  con- 
tinues to  a  point  opposite  St.  George-street  and  the  storehouse, 
at  the  angle  of  the  seminary  garden,  and  to  the  cliff,  Sault-au- 
Matelot,  near  where  Champhiin  began  his  settlement  in  160S. 

From  this  eminence  the  grand  battery  of  heavy  32  pound- 
erg  points  to  the  basin,  and  sweeps  over  the  harbor  in  a  com- 
manding style.  This  extends  to  the  Bishop*s  Palace,  and  in 
those  parts  of  the  cliff  where  it  is  300  feet  above  the  water, 
the  parapet  is  but  a  few  feet  high,  and  the  grim-looking  artille- 
ry are  ready  to  vomit  forth  their  iron  missiles  on  all  invaders. 


i 


.1'''/" 

'«5 


184    Governor' $  Gar4en^8t>  JUuU^  Gate-^St^  John'^  Gate^ 


Hard  by  the  Bishap^g  Pnlace,  that  was  long  used  by  the^ 
ProviiiGial  LegislatiKo,  isih^  Presc»tt  Gale  and  guard-house, 
and  under  its  massive  arch  is  the  great  ihoroutfhfare  belween> 
the  upper  and  lowtir  towns,  called  Moimlain-street..  It  is- 
protected  on  both  sides,  and  by  works  that  connect  it  with 
the  Castle  of  St.  Louis;  tht  stone  rampart  or  wall  formed 
part  of  that  building,  aided  by  buttresses,  founded  on  the  solid 
rock  200  feef  above  the  lower  town. 

The  Governor's  Garden^  on  terraces,  is  on  the  south-west  of 
the  ruins  of  the  castle,  and  is  540  feet  by  210,  and  has  also  in 
it  a  small  battery.  In  front  of  the  garden  t-he  fortifications 
are  continued  for  900  feet,,  until  they  reach  the  foot  of  th& 
glacJM,  or  hill,  towards  Cape  Diamond,  crowned  at  that  poin» 
by  the  round  tower,  and  the  British  fiag  proudly  trium- 
phant. 

As  to  the  extent  of  the  rampartt  on  the  land  side,  Irom  the 
south-west  angle  of  the  citadel  to  the  cliff,  above  the  River 
St.  Charles,  they  are,  according  to  Bouchette,  5,511  feet,  or 
221  feet  over  a  mile.  Within  this  ramfiart  is  the  Esplanade^ 
a  level  space  719  feet  long,  and  here  are  mounted  the  several 
guards  on  duty,  at  the  citadel  and  other  public  places,  daily 
at  1 1  o'clock,,  that  every  stranger  should  by  all  means  behold^ 
besides  other  parades  of  the  garrison.  The  circuit  of  the  for- 
tifications that  enclose  the  upj)ep  town,  is  two  and  three- €|,uarter 
miles,  and  that  of  the  space  reserved  by  government,  on 
which  no  houses  can  be  budt  on  the  west  side,  is  three  miles  ;^ 
average  diameter,  4,500  feet. 

The  CHStell»ted  appearance  of  th«  city,  that  may  be  said 
to  be  entirely  surrounded  by  a  strong  and  lofty  wall  of  hewn 
Btone,  elegant  and  durable^  its  ditehesr  embrasures,  round 
towers,  battlements  and  gates  add  much  to  its  outward  effect, 

St.  Louis''  Gats  and  road  leads  to  the  :<cetie  of  Wolfe's  death 
— the  Plainsof  Abraham,  and  the  race  course;  this  road  is 
krpt  iu  repair  by  the  military  authorilieii,  and  is  bordered  by 
fasliionable  houses  and  gardens ;  and  on  the  left  is  seen,  on  a 
slight  ascent,  one  of  the  four  Mariello  towers,  that  are  intend* 
ed,  by  the  cannon  on  (he  top,  to^weep  the  plain  to  lli«  south- 
west in  advance  t^f  the  main  ramparts  between  the  two  rivers. 

St.  John^s  Gate  leads  to  the  populous  suburb  bearing  that 
name,  and  the  much  admired  pariah  of  South  Foy,  with  it* 
]<leasant  residences,  gardens,  and  villas. 

From  the  new  market  on  the  St.  Cbnrlei  »  a  good  view  of 
the  cUy  and  iti  U«ie  of  d«  feoco.   '^^      ^ 


'J^uiW  BarrackM—Parliament  House* 


186 


The  Jesuits*  Barracks  is  an  edifice  of  stone,  three  stories 
high,  224  feet  by  200,  with  its  principal  entrance  from  :iie 
market  place,  opposite  the  French  Cnihedral.  A  lofty  passage 
opens  into  an  area,  with  tlie  soldier^s  rooms  on  each  sideband 
an  arch  leading  to  the  yard  and  offices;  on  the  left  is  a  large 
duor  opening  to  a  hall,  and  the  library  that  belongs  to  the 
garrison.  The  wall  enclosing  the  yard  is  600  feet  long  in 
St.  Anne  street ;  in  that  is  the  barrack  gate  and  main  guard  ; 
this  was  formerly  the  garden.  The  Barrack  Office  beyond 
the  gate,  is  a  neat,  solid  building,  nearly  opposite  the  Scottish 
church. 

The  Commissariat  Office  is  in  the  Place  d'Arnies,  opposite 
to  the  court-house ;  the  large'stores  are  on  the  King's  Wharf. 

In  St.  Louis-street  is  the  residence  of  the  ofHcers  not  re- 
siding in  the  citadel,  and  in  the  rear  of  the  stone  building  it 
the  spacious  mess-room  of  the  officers  of  the  79ih  Highland* 
ers ;  and  on  the  east,  und  in  rear  of  the  officers'  quarters,  at  the 
end  of  a  court  or  avenue  from  St.  Luuis-street,  is  the  MiHf' 
tary  Hospital,Si  large  building.  Opposite  to  the  officers'  quarters 
in  St.  Louis-street,  are  the  military  offices;  and  next  to  St. 
Louis'  Gate  is  the  Royal  Engineers'  office ;  and  in  the  rear 
are  the  spacious  yard  and  work  shops  of  the  Royal  Sappers 
and  Miners,  The  engineers  have  charge  of  the  military  worki 
of  all  kinds.  The  government  laboratory,  on  the  right  hand 
of  the  road  leading  to  the  citadel,  opposite  to  the  engineer 
yard,  is  on  the  site  of  an  old  powder  magazine ;  close  to  it 
Gen.  Montgomery  was  buried,  January  4th,  1776. 

The  ordnance  department  has  a  spacious  buildmg  of  stone, 
and  a  powder  magazine  in  the  bastion,  between  St.  John's 
Gate  and  the  Artillery  Barracks  ;  and  in  various  parts  are 
large  depots  of  cannon,  powder,  shot,  and  other  munitions 
of  war. 

The  Parlinment  House  is  a  substantial  edifice  of  cut  stone, 
on  the  site  of  ihe  Bishop's  Palace,  and  consists  of  a  centre  of 
250  feet,  surmounted  by  a  handsome  dome  lantern,  or  spire, 
like  that  in  Boston,  and  cross,  covered  with  tin.  There  are 
two  wings  of  60  feet  each;  the  whole  is  three  stories  high, 
and  is  arranged  on  an  open  court  or  terrace,  raised  a  lew 
feet  above  the  street.  The  facade  is  massive  and  impo- 
sing; the  entrance  on  the  first  floor  is  through  a  rustic  base, 
and  over  that  is  a  colonnade  of  four  Ionic  pillars,  with  a  pedi- 
ment and  the  imperial  arms  of  Great  Britain. 

In  this  house  will  be  held  the  Bittiags  of  the  Prorincial 

16* 


. 


: 


186 


Cdurlffoute'-^ait'^Free  Mmorn^  Hall, 


Legis1nttirf!,that  hnve  until  IS34  bncn  in  the  Biihn|>*i  Chnpcf. 
The  npsv  plHce  ofasgemlily  im  79  tent  InnK  by  45  broucl,  and 
2S  foot  high  from  floor  to  ceiling.  From  tiie  dome  is  a  uplcn* 
did  view  over  iho  city  of  Quelicc  and  t.h«  romantic  onviroiis, 
thnt  is  enjoyed  in  security  trom  the  railed  gallery  on  the  out- 
side that  environs  the  dome. 

The  Cohrl  House  is  n  plain  edifice  of  gray  stone,  ]36  hy 
44,  ill  an  area  inclosed  by  an  iron  railing,  the  roof,  as  iixual, 
covered  with  tin.  It  standi)  at  the  angle  of  Ht.  LouiH-street, 
and  the  Place  d*Arnies  south  of  the  t^n^lish  Cathedrwi.  front* 
ing  on  the  former;  a  double  flijjht  ofntono  steps  lond^  to  a 
veKlibule,  and  farinfi^  that  is  the  court  of  sessions,  and  on  the 
rijj^ht,  tlio  police-ofiioe,  jiHtices'  and  grand  jury  rooms.  Ou  the 
left  IN  the  Prothonotary  of  Court  of  King's  Bench.  On  the 
upper  floor  is  the  Court  of  Kmg*8  Bench,  with  a  g^Hery  for 
S[ieutat.ors,  wilh  the  imperial  arms,  ns  in  the  session;*'  i^oom,  he- 
hind  the  bench.  To  the  left  of  the  Court  of  Kind's  Bench 
are  the  judfves*  chambers  and  the  Court  of  Appeals,  and  on 
t1iu  riuhi  the  Vice  Admiralty  and  sherifli)^  oflico  and  advocates 
wardrobe.  The  Vice  Admiralty  Court  is  held  in  the  sessio.is' 
room.  The  records  are  kept  in  the  basement.  The  cost  Was 
£30  000— Hnished  1804. 

The  Jail  is  160  feet  Inns  by  68  broad,  and  behind  it  in  a 
sepnnito  Imilding  is  the  House  of  Correction  for  femalos;  the 
jail  is  airy  and  elevated,  being  at  the  top  of  St.  Stanislaus- 
street ;  it  is  well  rej^nlaicd  and  clean.  The  Qaebeo  Jail  Asso- 
ciuUon  to  promote  education,  industry,  and  moral  improvement 
among  the  prisoners,  is  an  useful  soeit'ty  of  gentlemen,  the 
principal  clergy,  &c,  that  meet  in  the  chapel  of  the  jail  once  a 
we<k. 

Free  Masons^  Hall  is  opposite  to  the  Oeneral  Post  Office  in 
Buade- street,  near  thopteps  leading  through  Piescott  Gale  to 
t^t^  lower  town.  Le  Chien  tVor  is  a  stone  dog  gilt,  gnawing  a 
hone ;  a  memorial  in  front  of  n  hourio  nearby,  of  a  boneofcon* 
tent  ion,  in  1712,  between  Philibert  that  resided  in  this  house 
a  merchant,  and  Begon,  the  Intendtint ;  the  latter,  feel'np^  pow- 
er and  forgetting  right,  injured  rho  former,  who  replied  in  a 
pasquinade  on  B'^gnn,  that  oflended  him  so  mortally,  that 
Philibert,  in  descending  the  lower  town  bill,  waa  run  through 
the  body  by  M.  De  R— — ,  an  oflicer  of  the  garrison,  who  left 
the  province  in  haste,  but  Wa^  pursued  to  the  Ea«t  Indies  by 
the  brother  of  Mr.  Philibert,  who  met  the  assassin  in  a  street 
of  Pondicherry,  and  n  duel  with  twordi  ensued,  and  De  R.  fell, 


4» 


I^riniB  Hdipital,  Spe .     "^ 


Vt 


and  the  nvenger  wai  satisfied.    The  Chien  d'or  yet  remaint, 
wilh  the  pasquinade.  "" 

JK  8VIB  VN  CHIRN  QVI  RONOR  l'oS, 
'.  KN  LK  RONOKAVT  JK  PRKNO  MOrf  RRPOS. 

VN  TKMS  VIRNDRAQVl  NRHT   PAS  VUNVy  .  ,, 

QVR  JE  MORUHAY   QVl  MAVRA  MURV. 

Tlie  house  inhahited  hy  the  brave  but  unfortunRte  Mont* 
calm,  who  fell  gallunily  on  Ihe  Plains  of  Ahraham  in  the  con- 
flict gained  by  Wolfe,  at  the  loss  of  hix  life,  Is  west  of  Ho|>e 
Gate,  and  is  now  divide<l  into  three  private  residt-nces,  within 
the  foriiflcations  and  adjoining  the  garden  wall  uf  the  Hotel 
Dieii  fdciiig  the  norih>east. 

The  Marine  Hospital  is  on  the  bank  of  the  little  river 
CharlpH,  and  nearly  opposite  the  place  where  Jacques  Cartier 
firi>t  wintered  in  1535,  nearly  a  century  before  the  founding  of 
the  English  colonies  in  Virginia  and  New  t^n^land.  It  is  of 
the  Ionic  order,  copied  from  the  Temple  of  the  Muses  near 
Athens;  is'iOQ  feel  long,  and,  with  the  wings,  100  leet  deep, 
and  four  etories  hiuh,  including  the  basement  and  attic.  A 
double  flight  of  atone  steps  conducts  to  a  colonnade  of  four 
loflv  pillars  of  the  Ionic  order  that  reach  up  to  the  cornice  of 
ihe  ihird  story,  and  above  that  is  the  attic  of  the  fourth  story. 

The  entire  premises  contain  six  acres  in  gardens  and  pro- 
menades for  the  convalescents,  and  the  house  can  receive  362 
pniienis;  hot,  cold,  and  vapor  bathi>  are  in  each  story  ;  and 
each  ward  has  flues  to  convey  the  foul  air  to  the  roof  and 
ensure  vcniilatinn,  that  i^^  done  by  machinery — and  thig  is  of 
vital  importance,  and  should  never  be  omitted.  Water  is 
taken  from  the  River  St.  ChHrlcs,  filtered  and  conveyed  to  (he 
top  of  the  Hospital.  In  the  bast  nient  story  are  extensive 
cellars,  kitchens,  laundry,  and  other  arrangements  In  the 
first  xtory,  (Catholic  and  Protestant  chapels,  and  looms  for  the 
niinisteis,  house  I  .>epei',  steward,  nurse,  twolurge  kitchens, 
wants  for  60  patients,  baths,  &c.  The  principal  story  has  a 
largo  entrance>hall,  a  museum,  apartments  lor  the  medical 
oflicers,  exaininin|r.rooms,  operatirig-theatref*,  or  dissecting- 
roomn,  and  space  f<>r  68  patients.  In  the  ihinl  story  are  apart- 
mcnts  for  the  chief  nurses,  and  wards  for  140  patients.  The 
upper  story  in  for  a  lying  in  hospital  for  34,  an«l  ihe  attics  are 
for  60.  Ii  was  opened  in  .luly,  18.34,  and  hasco^t  a  large  sum. 

The  French  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  is  on  the  east  of  the 
Markoi-place,  and  is  a  plain  stone  building,  216  feet  by  108, 


188 


St.  PatrieWi  Church—Englith  Cathedral. 


with  a  high,  awkward,  tin  covered  spire.  The  interior  hai 
muriy  pictures  and  an  antique  pulpit,  and  will  contain  4,000. 
The  ai8l(;s  are  lower  than  the  nave,  and  divided  by  massive 
arches  of  stone,  and  nbovn  \a  a  gallery  on  each  sidu,  running 
the  whole  length  of  the  interior ;  the  altar  and  choir  are  well 
decorated  ;  there  are  two  small  chupcis  ;  in  a  transverse  gaN 
lery  is  an  organ  at  the  west  end.  Another  Catholic  Church  of 
the  Congregation  is  a  modern  edifice  on  the  west  end  of  the 
esplanade;  and  another  in  the  lower  town,  Notre  Dame  des 
Vicioires,  built  in  16U0,  also  fronts  on  the  Market- place.  The 
most  recent  Catholic  church  is  in  the  suburbs  of  St.  Roch, 
and  is  a  large  and  ornamental  ediHce,  with  several  paintings. 
There  is  also  a  church  at  Point  Levi  of  the  Catholics,  and  an 
Episcopal  church  that  is  neat  and  attractive,  and  harmonize 
well  with  the  landscape  around. 

St.  Patrick's  Church,  Catholic  Irish,  St.  Helen's-str^et,  rear 
of  Palace-street,  is  136  by  62  feet;  has  tnree  entrances  in 
front,  and  twu  east  and  west;  a  double  tier  of  windows;  ceiU 
ing  48  feet  high ;  the  roof  and  galleries  are  upheld  by  massive 
pillars,  with  bases  and  capitals;  the  galleries  have  three  ran- 
ges of  pews,  and  with  those  on  the  ground- flat  will  contain 
a  large  number. 

The  English  Cathedral  was  erected  at  the  instance  of  the 
first  Bishop  of  Quebec,  in  1S04,  by  the  government ;  it  is  134 
feet  long  by  73  broad,  and  from  the  floor  to  the  centre  of  the 
arch  in  the  interior  is  41  feet,  spire  152  feet.  It  occupies  a 
spacious  area,  enclosed  by  iron  rails  and  gates,  and  decor.'«ted 
with  trees.  It  has  a  peal  of  eight  bells,  the  tenor  bell  of  16 
cvvt. ;  an  excellent  organ  and  regular  choir,  with  galleries 
each  side,  and  an  elegant  font  of  white  marble,  and  a  magni- 
ficent  set  of  communion  plate,  made  by  Rundell  and  Bridge, 
London.  There  is  also  a  beautiful  monument  to  the  memory 
of  Dr.  Jacob  Mountain,  the  late  flrst  Bishop  of  Quebec,  by 
Nicholls,  size  eight  feet  by  six,  weight  two  tons ;  the  Nvhole  is 
of  white  marble,  done  in  a  masterly  style,  and  has  a  striking 
eflfect,  and  is  a  conspicuous  ornament  to  the  church,  and  has 
a  likeness  of  the  venerable  Bishop  in  his  bust  and  robes,  on  a 
pedestal,  with  the  mitre,  &i,c.  and  inscription  cut,  and  a  full- 
length  flgure  of  Religion  clasping  a  Bible,  with  the  cross  and 
crosier.  The  present  archdeacon  is  the  son  of  the  first  bi- 
shop of  Quebec. 

There  are  four  chapels  of  the  church  of  England  in  the 
parish ;  1st.  The  Holy  Trinity,  in  St,  Stanislaus-street,  upper 


\ 


^ 


< 


\    I 


Scotch  Church'-^Si.  JohnU  Church— Bank,  Sfc.        189 

town,  a  private  chapel,  built  by  Chief  Justice  Sewell  in  1824  ; 
it  is  of  cut  stone,  74  by  48,  with  an  organ,  and  will  hold  700. 
£.  W.  Sewell,  Rector.  The  other  three  chapels  are  small,  viz. 
St.  Matthew's,  or  free  chapel,  in  St.  John's  suburbs.  St. 
Paul's,  or  the  Mariner's  Chapel,  at  the  base  of  Cape  Dia- 
mond, close  to  the  L'Anse  des  Meres,  built  of  wood,  (over  n 
Kchool-house  of  stone,)  and  served  gratis  by  the  evening 
lecturers  of  the  cathedral.  St.  Peter^s,  or  the  French  Protest- 
ant Chapel,  suburb  St.  Roch,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  Male 
Orphan  Jisylum,  that  is  supported  by  the  weekly  collections 
of  the  cathedral.  The  Female  Orphan  JJsylnm  is  in  the  rooms 
over  the  National  School-house,  near  St.  John's  Gate,  a  plain 
goihic  building  within  the  walls. 

The  Scotch  Church,  in  St.  Annc's-street,  upper  town,  en- 
larged in  1824,  is  95  feet  by  48,  and  can  stow  1,300,  and  has  a 
school  attached. 

St.  Johii's  Church,  St.  Francis -street,  is  connected  with  the 
church  of  Scotland. 

The  IVesleyan  Methodists  have  a  chapel  in  St.  Anne-strect, 
upper  town,  and  also  a  smaller  one  in  Champlain-street, 
lower  town,  for  sailors  and  others. 

Quebec  Bank,  in  the  lower  story  of  the  neat  atone  edifice 
owned  by  the  Fire  Assurance  Company,  in  the  second  story  m 
St  Peter's-strcet — the  former  is  a  Joint-stock  Company.  Qffict 
of  Discount  and  Deposit  of  the  Montreal  Bank,  i<  on  the  corner 
of  St.  I'eter  and  St.  Janies'-streets,  near  the  Exchange. 

Cha*seur*s  Museum,  in  St.  Helcn's-street,  in  the  upper  town, 
near  St.  Patrick's  Church. 

The  Gentrai  Hospital  is  a  nunnery,  with  a  superior,  45 
nuns,  a  few  novices  and  postulants.  The  front  is  228  feet ; 
its  form  nearly  squared—the  main  edifice  33  feet  deep— the 
ran^e  on  the  south- west  is  133  feet  long  and  60  broad — (a 
separate  house  is  for  the  insane,  and  there  is  another  at  Three 
Rivers  under  the  Ursulines.)  The  chapel  is  neat,  and  has  a 
gallery  connected  for  the  sick  and  indigent. 

The  Hold  Dieii  is  one  of  the  largest  edifices  in  Canada, 
890  leet  long  and  51  wide,  three  stories  high,  situated  be- 
tween Palace  and  Hope  Gales,  with  a  wing  on  the  north- 
west side,  150  feet  lung  and  two  stories  high.  A  superior 
and  33  nuns,  two  novices  and  a  postulant  devote  them- 
selves to  the  gratuitous  care  of  the  sick  and  the  afflicted  poor^ 
There  are  some  pictures  here  by  Stella,  Corspel,  and  £us- 
Ucha  La  Seur,  the  Raphael  of  France. 


\ 


Tffl 

1 


190 


Uriuline  Convent  and  Chapel— Seminary, 


•  The  Ursuline  Convent  ii  a  plain  but  commodious  edifice  of 
■tone,  tvro  Blorieg  high,  114  feet  front  by  40  deep — that,  with 
its  gardens  and  out-buildings,  covers  seven  acres  of  ground 
within  its  own  fief  of  St.  Joseph.  The  rest  of  the  site,  except 
the  court,  is  occupied  by  a  kitchen-garden,  and  is  surrounded 
by  a  stone  wall.  The  chapel  and  choir  of  St.  Ursula  is  95  by 
45 feet;  plain  exterior, but  its  altars  are  splendid,  and  the  in- 
terior is  venerable;  the  grating  separates  it  from  the  convent, 
and  it  opens  to  the  public  towards  Garden-street.  The  re- 
mains of  Montcalm  here  repose. 

The  UrsuUne  Chapel  has  several  pictures  that  may  be  ex- 
amined by  asking  the  chaplain ;  they  are  by  Van  Dyke,  Le 
Seur,  Restout,  painter  to  the  king*  in  1760,  and  Champagne, 
a  Flemish  painter  to  the  Queen  of  France  in  1674.  The  fa- 
mily consists  of  a  superior,  42  nuns,  and  some  novices.  The 
rules  are  rigid  and  exclusive,  and  their  convent  is  pot  open 
to  public  inspection  beyond  the  chapel  and  parlor  ;  the  whole 
is  neat  and  well  arranged.  The  school  here  kept  is  one  of  the 
best  in  the  province,  and  the  branches  are  the  useful  and 
ornamental. 

The  Seminary  of  Quebec  is  an  immense  pile  of  buildings,  of 
210  feet  on  three  sides,  and  42  feet  wide,  three  stories  high. 
Corridors  of  great  len|p;th  traverse  each  story,  leading  to  the 
halls,  dormitories,  refectories,  classes,  apartments  of  the 
priests  and  of  the  Bit  '^op,  who  resides  in  the  seminary,  with 
the  portraits  of  his  12  predecessors  in  his  anie-chambcr. 
There  are  260  pupils,  120  of  them  boarders,  that  pay  £17 
10».  yearly,  and  deductions  made  for  all  absences  of  eight 
days  or  more — to  others  tuition  is  free.  The  commence- 
ment is  on  the  15th  August,  and  is  attended  by  the  governor 
and  all  distinguished  characters  ;  after  this  is  a  vacation  of 
six  weeksi.  The  library  co.)3ists  of  8,000  volumes.  The  hall 
or  chapel  is  adorned  wif!i  icuxc  columns.  The  cabinet  has  a 
choice  collection  of  instru.  riients,  antiquities,  and  a  cabinet  of 
mineralogy,  from  Abbe  Hauy,  Paris ;  fossils,  petrifactions, 
shells,  insects,  ores  from  South  America,  and  an  imitation  of 
tVie  Falls  of  Niagara.  The  grand  entrance  to  the  buildings  is 
from  the  Market-square,  and  the  vestibule  conducts  to  the 
chapel,  and  to  the  best  collection  of  paintings  to  be  seen  in 
this  country,  of  the  French  school  and  eminent  masters,  14 
in  number. 

The  garden  is  510  feet  long  and  600  feet  broad,  and  has  sf*- 
ven  acres  of  grot;ind  facing  the  grand  battery  and  overioQk- 


Caitle  of  St.  Louii. 


191 


\x\g  the  harbor,  and  includes,  besides  several  rows  of  fruit 
trees,  a  bocage  of  forest  trees  and  a  terrace,  from  which  the 
view  of  the  batiin  and  distant  landscape  is  truly  splendid. 

The  Caalle  of  St.  Louis,  the  seat  of  provincial  power  and 
government  for  the  two  countries,  and  the  sye  of  Quebec, 
was  destroyed  by  fire  the  23d  January,  1834,  when  the  ther* 
mometer  was  22  below  zero,  arid  a  fierce  westerly  wind  was 
blowing.  It  broke  out  in  a  room  on  the  upper  story,  About 
noon,  and  soon  spread  the  whole  extent  of  the  roof,  and  burnt 
downwards;  and  though  the  alarm  was  given,  and  the  tocsin 
bounded,  all  was  useless;  the  engines  were  instantly  frozen, 
nnd  warm  water  could  not  be  procured  in  quantity  to  arrest 
the  fury  of  the  flames — all  efforts  were  powerless.  The  length 
uf  this  edifice  was  210  feet,  its  width  40  feet,  its  height  above 
the  lower  town  200  feet ;  and  apart  from  (he  painful  sense  of 
the  destruction  of  an  ancient  and  celebrated  building  identi- 
fled  with  the  colonial  history,  the  sight  in  the  day  was  deeply 
impressive,  and  at  night  grand  in  the  extreme.  The  extent  of 
the  structure,  the  numerous  windows  and  openings,  its  great 
elevation  and  peculiar  position  as  to  the  lower  town,  actually 
overhanging  its  streets,  so  that  the  burning  flakes  fell  upon 
the  roofs  of  the  houses  below,  combined  to  make  this  triumph 
of  the  flames  almost  a  scene  of  wonder  and  admiration ;  from 
the  lower  town  it  was  in  the  highest  degree  picturesque,  and 
at  a  distance  the  view  of  the  fire,  and  its  reflection  on  the  icd 
and  snow,  were  singularly  beautilul,  it  being  many  hours  be* 
fure  it  WHS  consumed. 

The  Chateau,  as  it  is  called,  yet  remains  in  its  blackened, 
naked  walls,  as  does  the  firm  floor  of  the  gallery  or  balcony 
that  overlooks,  at  a  giddy  height,  all  below.  The  gardens 
also,  formed  in  terraces  cut  from  the  face  of  the  precipice, 
though  called  hanging  gardens  by  a  common  misnomer,  are 
yet  perfect  in  their  arrangement. 

Founded  by  the  French  in  1623,  under  Champlain,  it  par- 
took of  the  fluctuations  and  fortunes  of  those  early  days,  in 
being  alternately  captured  by  the  English,  and  given  up  again  ; 
of  being  bearded  even  by  the  ferocious  Iroquois,  those  indo- 
mitable enemies  of  ihe  French,  who  more  than  once  massa^ 
4'red  some  friendly  Indians  in  sight  of  its  walls,  and  threat- 
fned  the  fort  itself,  to  the  great  terror  of  the  French,  then 
weak  and  powerless ;  but  at  an  epoch  more  recent,  after 
yesrs  of  repose,  when  the  gristle  of  its  youthful  days  had 
been  hardened  into  the  bones  of  mature  manhood,  and  the 


' . '?  lit ;  J 

if 

m 


M 


"^'"^''■"'"llilMiMli 


V" 


\  r 


JPWP 


CtuUe  qf  Si.  Lout*. 


power  and  pomp  of  the  Gallic  kings  was  transferred  and 
wielded  to  this  remote  Siberian  shore  and  climate,  then^  it  was 
that  the  proud  occupiers  of  tliis  castle  let  the  full  measure  of 
their  strength  and  hatred  be  liberally  bestowed  upon  the 
English  colonies  of  North  America;  then  this  castle  was  the 
focus  from  whence  emanated  the  mandates  that  swayed  an 
immense  territory,  the  extent  and  vast  importance  of  it  then 
Veing  little  known  or  appreciated,  reaching,  as  it  did,  up  the 
noble  St.  Lawrence  and  the  shores  of  its  immense  lakes  al- 
moot  to  the  seat  of  perpetual  frost,  and  down  the  endless 
Mississippi  to  the  balmy  region  of  a  constant  summer. 

The  ancient  ceremonies  that  were  here  witnessed,  and  the 
acts  of  arbitrary  power  inflicted  by  the  vicegerent  of  Franco, 
i.i  the  strict  exaction  of  those  forms  of  servility  and  submis* 
sion,  by  the  minute  fulfillment  of  which  the  noblesse  and  mi- 
litary retainers  held  their  lands  and  places  in  the  province 
under  the  crown,  and  that  originated  the  claifs  of  rich  seig> 
nora  and  poor  habitans  or  peasants  of  tliis  day,  were  all  en> 
acted  in  this  castle,  that  has  been  so  recently  and  lamentably 
destroyed. 

few  Americans  are  aware  that,  the  English  having  sue- 
ceediid  to  the  rights  of  the  French  government,  this  ceremony 
is  still  maintained,  as  a  real  r.nd  substantial  obligation,  not  to 
be  violated  without  forfeiture  and  dishonon 

Ft^ally  and  homage  is  rendered  at  this  day  by  the  seigniors, 
to  the  governor,  as  the  representative  of  the  sovereign,  in 
the  billowing  form:  his  excellency  being  in  full  dress  and 
leated  in  a  state  chair,  surrounded  by  his  ataff,  and  attended 
by  the  attorney-general,  the  seignior,  in  an  evening  dress, 
and  wearing  a  sword,  is  introduced  into  his  presence  by  the 
inspector-general  of  the  royal  domain  and  clerk  of  the  land 
roll,  and  having  delivered  up  his  sword,  and  kneeling  upon 
one  knee  before  the  governor,  places  his  right  hand  between 
hia  and  repeats  the  ancient  oath  of  fidelity;  after  which,  a 
solemn  act  is  drawn  up,  in  &  register  kept  ibr  that  purpose, 
that  is  signed  by  the  governor  and  seignior,  and  countersigv 
ed  by  the  proper  officers. 

It  may  be  well  to  state,  that  the  old  castle  and  fort  of  St. 
Louis,  near  the  Sault  au  Matelot,  w&.o  separate  structures, 
the  one  in  the  other,  and  the  'ort  also  comprised  a  magasine, 
guard-room,  and  barracks  for  the  soldiers,  and  a  large  area 
in  a  rampart.  k  -    , 

The  exterior  of  the  last  castle  was  plain,  the  interior  well 


Monument  to  Wolfe  and  Montcalm. 


Ifli 


St. 


adapted  for  itss  purposes.  The  apartments  on  the  first  floor, 
occupied  by  the  family  of  the  governor^  were  furnished  in  an 
elegant  and  tasteful  manner,  and  with  paintings,  drawings, 
and  prints,  and  objects  of  verfu.  Though  not  large  as  those 
of  the  nobility,  yet  the  coup  d'cBil  of  the  rooms  on  the  recep- 
tion days  was  pleasing.  Here  were  given  the  parties  to  which 
the  gentry  of  the  city  and  vicinity  were  invited  during  the 
winter — always  in  Canada  the  season  of  hospitality. 

In  the  old  chateau  are  paintings,  by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds, 
of  George  11  [  and  Queen  Charlotte,  and  in  the  ball-room  is  a 
good  copy  of  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence's  full  length  portrait  of 
George  IV.  As  to  the  rebuilding  of  the  castle  on  its  former 
site,  on  a  new  enlarged  plan,  in  the  present  disturbed  state  of 
Canada,  it  is  quite  problematical. 

The  public  offices  are  in  a  large  building  on  the  corner  of 
Fort-street,  south  of  the  site  of  the  castle,  and  in  it  also  is 
tiie  Muatum  of  the  Canadian  Society  of  Arts,  and  near  by  is 
the 

Jilonument  to  Wolfe  and  Montcalm,  on  the  west  side  of  Des 
Carriere's-street,  leading  from  th?  Place  d'Armes  to  the  glacis 
of  Cape  Diamond;  in  front  is  a  broad  walk  overlooking  the 
castle  garden,  the  harbor,  and  the  shores  of  Orleans.  The 
obelisk^  including  its  surbase  and  sarcophagus  of  13  and  7  Ceetf 
and  shaft  of  4*2  feet  8,  is  65  feet — dimension  at  the  base  6 
feet  by  4  feet,  and  tapering  uonically  to  the  apex  to  3  feet 
2,  by  2  feet  5.  On  the  sarcophagus  is  a  Latin  inscription,  and 
on  the  north  side  "  Monlcalm^^  and  on  the  side  towarde^  tho 
river  and  place  of  his  ascent,  '*  Wolfed 

At  the  corner  of  St.  John  and  Palace-street,  in  a  niche  at 
the  angle  of  the  wall  of  a  public  house,  •'  General  Wolfe^a 
Holelf^'h  a  dwarf  statue  of  painted  wood,  depicting  him  in  a 
coat,  cocked  hat,  and  knee-breeches,  that  has  had  undue  im- 
portance bestowed  upon  it.  The  much  ad.nired  and  invalu^ 
able  bust  of  Wolfe,  that  was  placed  on  a  pedestal  in  the  cas- 
tle, at  the  head  of  the  principal  stair-case,  was  most  fortimate- 
ly  preserved,  as  were  the  most  valuable  furniture  and  effects, 
during  the  progress  of  the  destructive  element.  The  spot 
whore  the  hero  Wolfe  died,  is  indicated  on  the  field  of  battle 
on  the  Plains  of  Abraham,  by  a  broken  column  of  black 
marble. 


II 


194 


Hide  to  B^auport  and  Montmorenei. 


Ride  to  Beauport  and  ]fIontniorencl» 

nine  miles. 

No  traveler  of  taste  should  omit  making  an  early  visit  to 
this  exquisite  waterfall.  The  way  to  it  leads  out  of  the  north- 
west Hide  or  gate  of  St.  John,  through  the  street  and  exten- 
sive and  populous  suburbs  of  that  name,  never  tiring,  or 
ending  and  crossing  a  large  wooden  bridge,  the  interminable 
French  village  is  entered,  that  presses  closely  upon  the  road, 
and  has  a  goodly-looking  large  church,  with  a  dome  of  two 
spires  coated  with  tin,  bright  and  dazzling. 

The  traveler  having  passed  over  the  River  St.  Charles  and 
the  rich  meadows  north-east  of  the  city,  will  observe  the 
cheap  and  simple  method  of  dividing  the  small  cnclosiires  ^y 
stakes  driven  into  the  earth  and  fastened  at  top  by  >  « 
with  withes,  and  the  herds  of  cattle,  and  the  lighi  carts 
and  sturdy,  hardy  ponies  of  the  true  Norman  breed,  dragging 
to  market  wood  and  other  articles,  and  perhaps  the  owner 
with  his  pipe  and  woollen  cap,  the  costume  of  the  Bourgeoige, 
and  in  a  few  miles,  after  attaining  the  more  elevated  ground, 
will  be  in  the  village  of  Beaufort,  that  is  built,  as  usual  here, 
on  one  street,  four  miles  long,  reaching  to  the  vicinity  of  the 
Falls  of  Montmorenei. 

Arrived  at  this  spot,  eager  xv'ih  expectation  to  view  the 
cataract,  that  the  tourist  is  aware,  from  the  thundering  sound, 
is  close  upon  him  ;  a  ladder  near  by,  securely  placed  against 
the  rock,  that,  if  possessed  of  strong  nerves  and  a  good  grip, 
may  be  laid  hold  of  to  descend  70  feet,  will  place  him  qn 
the  table  rock,  exactly  on  a  level  with  the  torrent,  and  at  the 
fearful  verge  whence  it  makes  its  wild  leap  into  the  mist-co- 
vered abyss,  240  feet  beneath.  A  race-way  abstracts  a  por- 
tion of  the  water  before  it  reaches  the  cataract,  and  is  con- 
ducted along  in  a  channel  of  plank  down  the  hill  till  it  acquires 
H  fearful  velocity,  and  acting  upon  the  wheels  in  the  mill  at 
the  base,  it  gives  the  power  that  is  used  for  various  purposes 
to  a  great  amount,  such  as  sawing  lumber,  wool  carding,  &c. 
Ladies,  and  others,,  not  wishing  to  descend  the  ladder,  as 
above,  will  cross  the  bridge  over  the  Montmorenei,  100  feet 
wide,  to  the  east  side,  and  keep  alo~>g  the  same  towards  the 
front  of  the  falls.  The  width  here  does  not  exceed  50  or  60 
feet,  unless  under  heavy  rains  and  spring  floods  The  fall 
does  not  vary  more  than  five  degrees  from  perpendicular,  but 


1 


Folia  of  Montmorenci. 


195 


'4 


touches  some  projections  in  the  rock  as  it  falls,  that  breaks  it, 
and  diflfuses  into  foam  and  spray,  that  is  increased  by  its  fall- 
ing upon  other  rough  ledges  as  it  descends  to  its  deep  reser> 
voir. 

Theadmiration  of  the  traveler  will  increase  as  he  completes 
his  descent  to  the  foot  of  the  falls,  and  takes  an  upward  view, 
and  beholds  such  a  sheet  of  water,  the  width  of  two  common 
house  fronts,  shaking  in  mid  air  like  a  gigantic  white  ribbon 
held  aloft  and  displaying  its  changing  snaky  folds  to  the 
admiration,  awe,  ecstacy,  and  terror  of  the  beholder.  No 
one  should  boast  of  having  seen  Montmorenci  without  having 
attained  this  position. 

By  the  attrition  of  the  river  in  the  course  of  ages,  it  has 
worn  into  the  bov^els  of  the  rocky  precipice  a  semi-amphi- 
theatre of  600  feet,  back  from  the  St.  Lawrence,  amid  steep 
side  walls  of  near  300  feet,  of  limestone,  quite  rotten,  that  has 
in  places  an  appearance  of  slate  or  sand-stone.  The  Colise- 
um at  Rome,  large  as  it  is,  might  be  received  in  this  excava- 
tion, and  two  more  placed  on  top  of  it. 

From  the  hill  east  of  the  falls  is  a  fine  view  of  the  island  of 
Orleans,  20  miles  long  and  6  wide,  cultivated  like  a  garden  to 
supply  the  Quebec  market,  presenting  a  pleasing  slope  to  the 
west,  and  skirted  by  a  clean  sandy  beach, as  is  the  main  land  ; 
the  arm  of  the  river  between  is  slioal,  the  channel  for  men-of- 
war  and  merchantmen  being  on  the  other  side.  The  view 
also  of  the  harbor  from  this  direction,  and  of  tho  slender 
masts  and  spars  of  the  distant  shipping,  appearing  diminish- 
ed to  toys,  contrasted  with  the  black  frowning  back  ground  of 
the  precipices  of  Cape  Diamond  and  Point  Levi,  and  the 
bright  radiance  from  the  pure  dazzling  tin  covered  roofs  of  the 
dwellings,  public  edifices,  spires  and  domes,  calls  for  the  re- 
newed expressions  of  admiration. 

Rafls  of  lumber  engross  the  attention,  as  many  are  counted 
on  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  as  they  are  moored  in  all  the 
coves  and  nooks  of  the  shores  below  and  above  the  city,  not 
only  from  the  hnrculean  labor  bestowed  in  preparing  and 
wafting  several  hundred  miles,  over  rivers  and  rapidri,  such 
unwieldy  masses  to  a  distant  market,  a  voyage  of  weeks,  or 
perhaps  months,  but  also  at  the  immense  quantity  of  shipping 
ernplf  "ed  in  its  transportaiion  to  Europe. 

Before  quitting  th  'se  lovely  falls,  it  is  recommended  to  take 
a  8!iort  stroll  along  its  bank,  nt  some  distance  above  the 
chute^>  tvhere  the  river  flows  between  lofty  rocks,  and  with 


196 


Chaudiere  Falli. 


accelerated  current,  till  it  passes  the  geologicAl  curiosity  calN 
ed  the  Sleps^  a  work  of  nnfure  wiih  the  appearance  of  art, 
that,  aided  hy  the  romantic,  tree-crowned,  castellated,  rocky 
summits,  and  the  raging  current  that  is  seen  to  dart  under  the 
bridge,  and  over  the  steep  inclined  plane  of  the  rock  to  its 
final  plunge  into  the  bosom  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  if  a  good 
finale  of  the  excursion  to  Montmorenci. 

On  the  way  back  to  the  city  it  may  be  noticed  w  lere  the 
black  rocks  have  been  exposed  by  quarrying ;  thus  they  have 
the  aspect  of  beds  of  cual,  but  as  seen  in  Beaufort  are  the 
foetid  limestone,  in  strata  of  mason-like  regularity,  the  scams 
being  vertical  and  horizontal.  It  is  used  in  the  village  for 
buildir  nnd  also  for  making  lime.  Some  of  the  most  grati- 
fying Vi  •  r  Quebec  are  obtained  on  returning  from  Mont- 
morenci, t  in  passing  through  Lorellc^  a  village  of  half- 
civilized  aboiigines,  that  occupies  a  conspicuous  emitiencc  on 
the  north  bank  of  the  St.  Charles,  seven  miles,  from  the  city, 
that  presents  new  features  in  the  landscape,  the  rapids  of  the 
St.  Charles,  and  the  north-west  side  of  the  city  of  Quebec 
and  suburbs  in  bold  relief. 

The  Chaudiere  Falls  are  four  miles  above  its  embouchure 
into  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  nine  miles  from  the  city.  The 
river  rises  near  Lake  Megantic,  bordering  on  the  United 
States,  in  the  chain  of  highlands  south  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
and  has  a  circuitous  course  of  162  miles,  and  a  breadth  of 
four  hundred  to  six  hundred  yards,  and  a  bed  so  incommoded 
by  rocks  as  to  be  unfit  for  navigation.  In  i.  descent  from 
the  mountains  it  is  almost  a  continual  succession  of  cascades, 
but  at  the  great  falls  alluded  to  the  stream  is  400  feet  wide^ 
and  falls  130  feet  down  a  chasm  wild,  irregular,  and  fearfully 
grand.  Masses  of  rock  divide  the  falls  into  three  parts,  but 
they  are  again  concentrated  into  one  grand  volume  ere  they 
reach  the  receptacle  beneath.  The  evergreen  foliage  of  the 
ivoods  that  overhang  the  rocks  and  river  are  in  fine  contrast 
with  the  snow-white  brilliancy  of  the  foaming  and  roaring 
waters.  The  most  varied  and  charming  eflfect  is  produced  by 
the  revolving  bodies  oi'  waterand  foam  issuing  from  the  deep 
globular  excavations  worn  in  the  rock,  and  the  spray  and  mist 
that  is  thrown  off  reflects  in  the  sunshine  pillars  and  arches 
of  prismatic  colors  and  rainbow  hues  in  perfection. 

Point  Levi  must  be  visited  en  route  to  the  Chaudiere  if  the 
land  route  is  adopted,  though  it  can  be  approached  within  a 
short  distaoce  by  boats.    JNot withstanding  its  nearness  to  the 


'Canadian  Laws  and  CuMtoniM. 


197 


city,  the  woods  on  the  banks  of  the  river  are  lo  impervious 
as  to  render  a  guide  requisite  for  all  strangers  visiting  the 

falls. 

Arnold  in  his  celebrated  expedition,  in  1775,  to  attack 
Quebec,  followed  Mp  the  Kennehec  and  down  the  Chaudiere 
to  St.  Lawrence,  J70  iniiei*  from  Boston.  A  good  road  ex- 
tends from  Point  Levi  up  the  Chaudiere  to  the  De  Loup  set- 
tlement, and  also  one  from  Kennebec  to  the  boundary  line. 


Canadian  Laws  and  Customs,  dec. 

The  old  French  laws  prevailins;  in  1663,  viz.  the  '♦  Paysdu 
droit  ecrit^'Hhe  written  law,  or  Roman  law,  piightly  modified 
as  the  common  Ihw  of  the  land,  and  the  *^Pays  coutumier,*^  or 
law  of  custom,  the  feud.il  customs  of  the  Franks,  and  of  the 
tribes  that  overran  France,  yet  have  a  governing  influence  in 
Canada — lands  possessed  enfief  ti%  manors  with  feudal  rights 
and  privileges,  or  "  en  rolure,^*  with  servitude  from  vassal  to 
the  seitrneur,  as  the  maxim  was  in  tho.^e  days,  "  no  seigneur 
without  land."  Fiues  are  still  levied  on  all  sales  of  land,  and 
pre-emption,  in  cer»  lin  cpses,  reserved  to  the  vender;  these 
have  had  marked  influence  in  the  results  in  degrading  the 
population  and  character,  and  retarding  the  enterprise,  and 
prosperity  uf  the  people  of  Lower  Canada,  where  these 
'customs  only  prevailed,  and  their  effect  in  deadening  improve* 
ments  and  checking  the  resources,  ihe  transfer  of  property 
chainin!^  down  the  habiians  to  their  birth-places,  and  produc- 
ing a  fixed,  permanent,  and  increasing  population  on  the 
banks  of  the  River  !St.  Lawrence  only,  while  the  boundless 
interior  is  left  to  run  waste  from  the  inbred  gregarious  taste 
of  the  ignorant  peasantry  for  village  frolics  and  dancing, 
wilt  ever  depress  the  Canadians  in  the  estinialion  of  the 
Mrorld  far  below  that  standard  of  self  esteem  and  independ- 
ence in  thought,  word,  and  action,  that  prevails  in  such  a 
marked  degree  south  of  the  line  that  separates  Canada  from 
a  great  nation  governed  and  influenced  by  free  and  un- 
shackled, well  known,  and  printed  laws,  aided  by  unbounded 
activity,  civil  and  religious  freedom,  with  institutions  that 
are  impressed  on  a  people  of  such  different  languages  and 
descent. 

In  Canada  (here  are  no  recording  ofiices,  as  in  the  States, 
for  registering  the  sales  and  transfers  of  real  estate,  but  a  sys- 
tem of  secret  laws,  hypothecations,  mortgages,  and  myste- 

17* 


198 


'     '  Lower  St.  Latcrence. 


ries,  difficult  and  almost  impossible  to  trace  ordevelope,  that 
renders  it  extremely  difficult  to  obtain  a  good  and  peifect  title 
to  an  estate  in  Lower  Canada. 

Half  the  earnings  of  the  husband  during  coverture,  may, 
after  the  death  of  his  wife  without  children  be  claimed  by 
her  next  of  kin  in  hi«i  life  time,  is  another  of  the  ancient 
usages  derived  from  the  old  French  law  of  custom  in  by- 
gone ages,  that  from  its  injustice,  odiousncss,  and  singula- 
rity, would  not  be  tolerated  here  in  the  United  States  for 
a  moment. 


•/ 


T    LiO'wcr  St.  liawrencc.  - 

Adequate  impressions  of  the  magnitude  and  grandeur  of 
the  magnificent  St.  Lawrence  cannot  be  fully  attained  by 
the  casual  visiter  without  devoting  a  little  rim«  to  a  trip  down 
to  Mai  Bay,  or  Tadonsac,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Sagumay  River, 
100  mill's  below  Quebec,  or  along  on  the  south  shore  to  A'a- 
moiiraska,  nearly  opposite  Mai  Bay,  about  75  miles — a  wa- 
tering or  seu-bathiug  pl.ice,  that  is  a  favorite  place  of  resort 
in  summer  ;  here  are  one  or  two  inns  and  the  manor  house 
of  M.  Tach^  :  a  wood  is  on  the  north  to  Mai  Bay,  and  on 
the  south  to  Kamouraska. 

At  Quebec  the  greatest  depth  of  water  is  28  fathoms,  and 
the  tide  rises  17  to  18,  and  at  the  springs  from  23  to  24  feet. 
At  the  basin  the  St.  Lawrence  is  two  miles  across,  and  in- 
creases in  width  to  Cape  Rosier  and  the  Mingan  settlement 
on  the  Labrador  shore,  where  it  is  105  miles  wide. 

The  island  of  Orleans,  at  four  miles  from  Quebec,  is  20 
miles  longard  five  broad,  and  is  in  three  properties,  Drapeau, 
Poulain,  and  Du,^*'6.  The  shores  slant  gradually  to  the  beach, 
with  only  a  few  rocky  cliffs  ;  next  the  slopes  are  large  spaces 
of  low  meadow  land,  with  patches  of  arable.  Bordering  the 
north  the  beach  is  flat  and  muddy,  with  reefs  of  rocks;  on 
the  south  it  is  a  fine  sand  with  a  few  pointed  rocks.  The  high- 
est part  of  the  island  is  by  the  church  of  St.  Pierre,  four 
miles  from  the  west  end,  fronting  the  Falls  of  Montmorcnci, 
and  also  just  above  Patrick's  Hole,  abreast  of  St.  Pierre  on 
the  south,  at  the  second  telegraph  of  the  chain  from  Quebec 
to  Green  Island.  The  centre  is  thickly  wooded,  the  trees 
small.  The  soil  is  fertile  ;  the  uplands  have  a  light  earth,  with 
sand  and  clay ;  the  lowlands  a  fine  black  mould,  and  naar 


Island  of  Orleans — Lotcer  St.  Lawrence, 


199 


the  sljores  blended  with  sand  ;  it  is  poorly  watered.  There 
is  a  good  road  round  thn  island,  and  several  crossing  it.  The 
churches  of  St  Laurent  and  St.  Jean  are  near  the  south 
shore,  but  bix  miles  apart  from  each  other. 

The  way  is  through  excellent  and  well  cultivated  lands, 
richly  diversified  with  orchards  and  gardens;  the  grounds 
rising  with  an  easy  slope  frotn  the  ropd,  displays  the  surface 
to  the  eye.  The  houses,  in  the  Canadian  style,  are  close  by 
the  r«ad  side,  at  «ihort  distances  frotneach  other.  Pat's  Hole 
is  a  cove  and  anchoring  place,  tind  on  the  point  is  a  neat 
group  of  houses,  where  visiters  may  hoard  that  wish  to  ex- 
plore the  island  for  curiosity  or  amusement.  The  market  of 
Quebec  is  furnished  with  grain  and  most  sorts  of  provisions 
fioin  the  industrious  cultivators  of  this  fertile  island ;  the 
population  may  l)e  7,000. 

Beyond  the  island  of  Orleans  are  Goose  and  Crane,  and 
many  smaller  islands;  the  two  named  are  cultivated.  At  Ri- 
viere du  Sud  the  Si.  Lawrence  opens  to  11  miles  in  width, 
and  the  country  increases  in  its  appearance  as  to  beauty,  fer- 
tility, and  population ;  many  churches,  telegraph  stations, 
and  villages  of  whitened  houses,  give  life  and  animation  io 
the  scene;  and  the  contrast  is  observed  of  the  dark  thick 
woods  covering  the  rising  grounds  hchind  them  to  their 
summits,  and  the  lofty  ranges  of  the  distant  mountains  termi- 
nating  the  noble  background. 

At  the  Traverse  the  :St.  Lawrence  is  13  miles  across,  yet 
the  Islo  aux  Coudres,  the  shoal  of  St.  Rnck,  and  that  of  the 
English  Banky  interrupt  the  fair  way,  and  limn  the  channel 
used  by  the  pilots  to  not  more  than  1,800  yards  between 
the  buoys,  and  here  the  most  intricate  part  of  the  river, 
from  the  strong,  irregular,  and  numerous  currents.  Passing 
the  Traverse,  a  very  agreeable  view  is  seen  of  the  settle- 
ments in  the  Bay  of  St.  Paul. 

The  Bay  of  St.  Paul  is  three  miles  in  depth  and  two  miles 
wide  ;  it  receives  the  waters  of  Riviere  du  GoufTre,  a  stream 
of  <!:otisiderab!e  size,  flowing  from  some  lakes  in  the  second 
range  of  mountains  in  the  interior.  From  the  cape  the  ridges 
of  high  land  describe  a  circuit  before  they  close  upon  the 
river  ;  their  lofty  and  craggy  summits  form  a  grand  amphi- 
theatric  back  ground  to  the  picturesque  and  highly  romantic 
settlement,  guarded  by  the  well  cultivated  Isle  aux  Coudres 
at  its  entrance.  ,,,,.. 


w 


V) 


\      ( 


200 


Capt  Tourment—Bic  Island, 


Capt  Tourment  is  a  precipitous  head  land  1.800  feet  high, 
next  below  ihe  inland  of  Orleans  The  ro«  k  formations  of  ihe 
north  shore  of  the  St.  Lawrence  from  this  to  the  Mai  Bay, 
and  below,  a^e  of  a  similar  character.  They  rise  ir)io  moun- 
tains of  magnificent  features  that  bound  the  river  in  Infty 
capes  and  escarpments,  and  at  distant  intervals  break  into 
rich  but  nariow  valle>!*of  alluvion,  the  outlets  of  Htreams 
tributary  to  the  St.  Laurence,  and  admitting  elimpses of  the 
interior  villages  and  churches,  and  of  the  far  away,  rude, 
bleak,  and  gigantic  mountains. 

Continuing  down  the  river,  the  next  in  succession  are  the 
islands  of  Kamourasca,  the  Pilgrims^  Hare  Island,  and  the 
cluster  of  small  ones  called  the  ISranJy  Pots,  103  miles  from 
Quebec,  the  place  of  rendezvous  for  convoy.  Green  Island 
and  tho  lighthouse  is  next  passed,  and  then  Red  Island,  and 
abreast  of  it,  on  the  north  shore,  is  the  Saguenay,  at  river  re- 
markable, even  in  America,  for  the  immense  body  of  water 
it  pours  into  the  St.  Lawrence. 

Bic  Island,  153  miles  from  Quebec,  is  near  good  anchorage, 
and  next  comes  St.  Barnabe  and  the  Point  aux  Peresy  and  the 
place  to  discharge  pilots,  as  from  this  to  the  gulf  the  river  is 
clear.  Below  this  are  two  very  extraordinay  mountains  close 
to  each  other,  the  Paps  of  Matane,  and  nearly  opposite  to  ihem 
is  the  bold  and  lofty  promoniory  of  Afon/  Pelec  wherclhe river 
is  little  more  than  23  miles  wide,  but  the  coast  suddenly 
fitretches  almost  noith,  so  much  that  at  the  seven  islands  it  is 
increased  to  73  miles.  Thesettlements  on  the  south  side  reach 
down  thus  far,  but  to  the  east  of  Cape  Chat  the  progress  of 
industry  is  no  lonj^er  visible ;  rn  the  north  side  the  cultivated 
lands  extend  only  to  Mai  Bay. 

Taking  the  land  route  on  the  north  side  to  Mai  Bay,  or  on 
the  south  to  Kamourasca,  or  rather  ^oing  down  on  one  tide, 
crossing  the  river  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  where  the 
St.  Lawrence  14  18  miles  wide,  and  ascending  by  the  other, 
you  will  pass  in  review  almost  the  entire  population  of  the 
oldest  part  of  the  province,  and  have  exhibited  from  many 
elevated  positions,  extensive  reaches  of  the  great  river  in  all 
the  vivid  and  clear  distinctness  so  desirable  and  gratifying  to 
the  artist  and  lover  of  the  picturesque.  The  vast  lake  like 
expansions,  datted  with  cultivated  islands  that  are  oinamenl- 
ed  with  white  tenements  sprinkled  thickly  over  the  Innd,  the 
pretty,  dense  clusters,  and  villages  of  the  peasanty  gathered 
around  their  tia-covered  churches,  and  lofty  turrets  now  seen 


River  Saguenay. 


201 


in  the  lowly  vale,  or  surmounting-  the  distant  hill  or  moun- 
tain, with  the  native  forests  ever  in  view,  amid  a  people  at- 
tached to  thehahits  and  customs  of  their  Norman  ancestors  ; 
the  magnificent  forms  of  the  mountains,  the  beauty  of  the  se- 
cluded but  populous  valleys,  and  t  he  afTectionate  simplicity  and 
primitive  character  of  their  inhabitants,  is,  to  a  citizen  of  the 
United  States,  a  source  of  deep  musing  at  the  marked  con- 
trast in  manners,  customs,  language,  and  the  scenery  around 
him,  with  that  he  has  been  accustomed  to,  and  that  he  will 
probably  most  willingly  and  eagerly,  in  a  few  hours,  be  de- 
sirous to  resume. 

The  river  Saguenai/,  that  unites  with  the  St.  Lawrence  at 
Point  Allouettes,  or  Lark  Point,  is  the  largest  tributary  to 
that  stream.  It  may  be  traced  to  its  source  in  Lake  St.  John, 
and  a  collection  of  waters  in  north  latitude  48°  20',  and  72"^  30' 
west  longitude,  receiving  many  large  rivers  that  flow  from 
the  north  and  north-west  from  an  immense  distance  in  the  in- 
terior, such  as  the  Pickougamis^  the  Sable,  and  the  Pariboaca, 
At  its  eastern  extremity  two  large  streams,  one  called  the 
Great  Discharge,  and  the  other  the  Kinogami,  or  Land  River, 
issue  from  it,  that  after  flowing  57  miles  and  encompassing 
a  tract  of  land  of.  the  mean  breadth  of  12  miles,  unite  their 
waters,  and  form  the  irresistible  Saquenay ;  thence  it  con- 
tinues its  course  in  an  easterly  direction  for  100  miles  to  the 
St.  Lawrence. 

Throughout  its  course  the  banks  of  this  river  are  very 
rocky  and  immensely  high,  varying  from  631  feet  to  1,020 
feet;  its  current  broad,  deep,  and  overwhelming;  in  some 
places  where  precipices  intervene,  there  are  falls  from  50  to 
60  feet,  down  which  the  entire  (stream  rushes  with  indescri* 
bable  fury  and  tremendous  noise.  The  general  breadth  of  the 
river  is  from  2]^  to  3  miles,  but  at  its  mouth  it  contracts  to 
one  mile.  The  depth  of  this  enormous  stream  is  aUo  extra- 
ordinary. At  its  discharge  attempts  have  been  made  to  find 
the  bottom  with  500  fathoms  of  line,  but  without  effect ; 
about  two  miles  higher  up  it  has  been  repeatedly  Rounded 
from  130  to  140  fathoms,  and  60  to  70  miles  up  its  depth  is 
50  to  60  fathoms.  The  course  of  the  river,  notwithstanding 
ils  magnitude,  is  very  winding,  owing  to  many  projecting 
points  from  each  shore.  The  tide  runs  about  70  miles  up  it, 
and  on  account  of  the  obstructions  caused  by  the  numerous 
promontories  and  hidden  reefs,  the  ebb  is  much  later  than  in 
the  St.  Lawrence ;  in  consequence  of  that,  at  low  water  in 


202 


Tour  ihrougk  New  England. 


the  latter,  the  force  of  the  descending  irresistible  stream  is 
felt  fur  miles,  although  just  across  its  bed,  near  the  m«utl>j 
is  a  ridge  of  rocks  buriud  120  feet  beneath  the  iturface  ;  with- 
in, or  north  of  this  reef,  the  water  is  8  fo900  feet  deep,  while 
Qutnde  of  it  the  St.  Lawrenco  is  but  250  i'(*et  deep.  This  ex- 
traordinary barrier  of  the  month  of  the  Saguenay,  prevent* 
ing  the  simultaneous  action  of  the  tides  in  the  two  rivers, 
causes  a  conflict  in  the  waters  that  ii,  at  times,  productive  of 
alarm  and  terror  to  navigators. 

Tadousac  is  just  within  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  well 
sheltered  by  the  surrounding  high  lands,  and  is  a  safe  an- 
chorage for  large  ships.  Cliicoulmu,  75  miles  above  the 
mouth,  is  a  post  for  the  fur  traders,  and  here  grain  ripens 
■ooner  than  it  does  at  Quebec — a  singular  anomaly  of  chmate. 
The  Point  aux  Bouleau.x  is  an  alluvial  deposit,  and  is  perhaps 
the  richest  soil  in  the  world,  being  composed  of  a  0p(>cie8  of 
gray  marl  of  30  or  40  feet  in  depth.  This  may  be  the  attrac- 
tion that  draws  hither  many  new  settlers. 


Tour  through  the  central  parts  of  New 
England,  via  New  Haven,  Jflcriden, 
Hartford,  and  up  the  valley  of  Connec- 
ticut River  to  the  White  IVIountains  of 
New  Hampshire. 

The  passage  from  New- York  to  New  Haven  from  the  Beek- 
man  Slip,  is  usually  made  in  eix  hours;  distance,  73  miles- 
fare,  $2,  in  ster.id-boats  of  the  first  class.  The  first  hour  or  so, 
while  gli'ling  rapidly  by  New- York,  Brooklyn,  the  Navy  Yard, 
and  Marine  Hospital,  Williamsbur^h,  the  Penitentiary,  on 
the  long,  low  and  rocky  inland,  and  the  richly  studded  shores, 
near  Hallet's  Cove,  Hurl  Gate,  and  onwards  toThrog's  Point, 
should,  if  pleasant,  be  spent  on  deck,  to  view  the  rich  and 
rapidly  shifting  scene. 

Leaving  behind  us  the  last  mentioned  point,  that  is  memo- 
rable from  its  being,  during  the  revolutionary  war,  the  place 
of  landini;  of  the  British  troop?,  when  they  made  a  forHging 
and  plundering  expedit'on  into  the  interior  of  Connecticut, 
we  open  at  once  upon  the  broad  expanse  of  Long  Island 
Sound,  that  extends  to  the  north-east  for  a  hundred  miles  to 


TVur  throutfh  NetD  England, 


203 


Fisher*!  If  land,  and  is  every  way  lafe  and  favorable  for  navi- 
gation; but  ai  the  boat  advancei,  and  increaaes  its  diitance 
from  the  shores  on  either  hand,  it  becomes  unintcrestinir  from 
indlitinct  neM,  except  the  prominent  headlands  of  Sand's  Point, 
Lloyd's  Neck,  and  Huntington  or  Eaton's  Nrck,  light  hou- 
ses on  the  Long  Island  shore,  and  the  low  islands  on  the  notth 
at  New  Rochelie  and  Norwalk,  with  the  prominent  isthmus 
orShipan  and  Stratford  Point  jutting  boldly  beyond  the  gene- 
ral line  of  the  Connecticut  shore. 

In  advancing  up  the  harbor  of  New  Haven,  the  west  and 
the  cast  rock,  two  eminences  of  trap  rock,  of  about  400  feet 
high,  a  mile  or  ttvo  back  of  the  city,  form  n  bold  feature,  and 
are  the  terminations  of  the  green-stone  ranges  of  mountains, 
that  extend  from  the  interior  of  the  State  towards  the  sea 
coast,  and  that  bound  on  the  north-west  and  north-east 
the  comparatively  low  plain  that  contains  this  beautiful  city, 
its  gardens,  villas,  public  squares,  shaded  streets,  churche:^ 
and  colleges. 

The  trap  rocks  above  referred  to  have  a  reddish  hue,  from 
n  trace  of  iron  that,  during  the  decomposition  of  the  horn* 
blende  and  feldspar,  gives  a  rusty  tinge  to  the  face  of  the 
mountain — this  red  appearance  forms  a  marked  charactcrintic 
in  approaching  the  town,  or  while  in  the  middle  of  the  sound. 

Like  all  similar  formations  of  columnar  trap,  there  are  nu* 
merous  fissures  and  cracks,  that  admit  enow  or  water,  and  in 
winter  the  formation  of  ice,  that  causes  the  disrupture  of  the 
exposed  front,  when  heavy  portions  of  these  mountains  arc 
seen  to  fall  with  a  thundering  crash,  bringing  down  quantitieif 
of  debris,  that  in  time  have  formed  a  slope  at  an  angle  of  45 
degrees,  that  reaches  from  the  base  nearly  halfway  up  ;  this 
l^rocessis  aided  by  the  hand  of  man,  as  the  material  is  valua* 
ble  for  building,  and  as  such  is  used  in  the  adjacent  city  and 
country. 

Legends  assign  the  recesses  about  the  west  rock,  as  the 
places  of  concealment  of  Goff,  Whaley,  and  Dixwell,  some  of 
the  judges  of  King  Charles  the  First,  that  made  their  escape 
to  this  country  in  1660,  and  skulked  about  this  neighborhood 
to  evade  the  pursuit  that  was  made  for  them  by  the  officers 
and  myrmidons  of  Charles  the  Second. 


m 


New  Hanen. 


IVew  Haven* 


•  i,fh'i 


The  city  is  at  a  distance  of  four  miles  up  from  the  mouth 
of  the  harbor,  that  is  opposite  to  the  broadest  part  of 
Long  Island  Sound,  here  25  miles  across ;  the  harbor  is  shoal, 
having  but  15  feet  in  the  channel,  and  but  seven  and  a  half 
feet  on  the  bar,  and  is  fast  filling  up  by  the  marsh  mud,  as 
formerly  vessels  were  built  and  launched  where  there  are  at 
present  meadows  and  gardens. 

The  town  plat  was  originally  laid  out  in  nine  squares, 
each  of  53  rods  on  a  side,  an<l  streets  of  four  rods  wide,  form- 
ing a  quadrangular  area  of  160  rods — the  central  square  being 
judiciously  reserved  for  public  and  ornamental  uses,  and  now 
called  the  Green — this  at  present  forms  the  pride  and  orna- 
ment of  the  town,  being  intersected  centrally  by  ^n  avenue 
that  is  shaded  with  a  double  row  of  elms,  that  fonrn,  by  the 
overarching  and  mingling  of  their  branches,  a  verdant  avenue, 
that  to  aid  its  extent  and  effect  is  prolonged  into  the  adjoin* 
ing  squares,  thus  giving  a  vista  of  half  a  mile  from  north-east 
to  south-west. 

Similar  rows  of  elms  adorn  the  sides  of  the  square  '^e 
east  and  west,  and  three  of  the  principal  churches  are  .^..ftcd 
on  the  west  side  of  (his  beautiful  central  avenue,  in  a  way  that 
aids  the  general  effect,  the  western  half  of  the  Green  sloping 
or  rising  gradually  towards  the  college  edifices,  that  occupy 
the  entire  western  side  of  the  square,  with  their  own  spacious 
walk  or  court-yard  in  front,  with  groves  of  trees,  giving  still 
more  breadth  and  beauty  to  the  outline  of  this  eminently  fine 
and  classical  position. 

The  eight  remaining  square  pints  of  53  rods  long,  were  also 
subdivided  by  cross  streets  into  32  smaller  squares,  but  leav* 
ing  abundant  room  fur  gardens  in  the  interior  of  the  blocks, 
and  for  ornamental  yards  in  front.  From  the  tasteful  and 
liberal  method  pursued  in  laying  out  and  adorning  this  town, 
it  has  become  a  desirable  residence  to  those  fond  of  a  rural 
and  quiet  abode.  *       ( 

Much  of  the  interest  of  a  visit  to  this  city,  to  all  intelligent 
strangers,  is  derived  from  its  literary,  classical  and  scientific 
associations  and  enjoyments ;  and  much  of  its  life  and  aninm- 
tion,  and  a  portion  of  its  prosperity,  also  may  be  attributed  to 
the  extensive  and  well  known  university  establishment,  as  it  is 
otherwise  a  tame  and  dull  place,  having  but  a  limited  trade  to 


TaU  Cotftfe. 


m 


th«  West  Indies  and  the  southern  States.  It  is  considered 
hesithy,  and  Trom  its  local  situation  and  proximity  to  IfeW' 
York,  has  attractions  as  a  permanent  residence. 


Yale  College.  ' 

Besides  the  five  college  buildings,  each  104  by  40  feet,  nnd 
four  stories  high  of  brick,  with  the  chapel  and  lyceum,  exhi- 
biting A  respectable  facade  of  850  feet,  with  the  interTals^ 
there  are  edifices  for  religious  worship  and  exhibitions,  and 
the  library  of  20,000  volumes,  and  the  recitntion-rooms,  an 
9tSteneum,  a  chemical  laboratory,  and  a  stone  dining  hall  in 
the  rear,  and  over  it  a  long-room  for  the  Gibb^s  cabinet  of  mine- 
rals, unequalled  in  value  and  extent  by  any  other  in  I  he  United 
States;  a  dining  hall  for  theologicnl  students,  a  neat  fire- 
proof  edifice,  for  the  valuable  historical  paintings  and  relics 
of  Col.  John  Trumbull  of  Connecticut ;  a  house  for  the 
President,  and  a  stone  building  for  the  ledical  lectares  and 
students. 

There  are  professors  of  didactic  theology,  of  divinity, 
rhetoric,  and  oratory ;  chemistry,  mineralogy,  nnd  geology  ; 
Latin  language  and  literature,  mathematics  and  natural  phi^ 
losophy,  Greek  language  and  literature,  natural  history,  law. 
surgery,  theory  and  practice  of  physic,  materia  mcdicn  and 
therapeutics,  anatomy  and  physiology,  obstetrics,  sacred 
literature  ;  eight  tutors  in  mathematics,  Greek  and  Latin,  an 
assistant  in  chemistry,  and  instructers  in  the  French  and 
German  languages 

Four  years  are  occupied  in  the  whole  course  of  instruction. 
The  senior  class  is  instructed  by  the  president  and  professors, 
£ach  of  the  four  classes  attends  three  recitations  or  lectures 
in  a  day,  the  three  younger  being  divided,  and  having  a  tutor 
to  each  section.  Examinations  in  public  are  in  May  and 
August,  four  to  six  days  each.  A  vacation  of  six  weeks 
from  Commencement;  two  weeks  in  January,  four  weeks 
in  May. 

There  are  usually  400  to  500  students  in  Yale  College* 
and  in  the  theological  and  medical  schools;  viz.  of  divini- 
ty, 74;  law,  32;  medical,  40;  under  graduates,  411 ;  senior^ 
95;  junior,  102;  sophomore,  106;  freshmen,  108.  The  daily 
exercises  in  term,  begin  by  early  morning  prayers  in  the  chape  I 
at  five  o'clock,  at  which  all  the  students  are  rigorously  required 

18 


4  , 

>XVi  '     '1 
PVfl 


206 


Yale  CsUegt^ 


to  attenri ;  this  occupies  but  a  few  minutee,  when  each  claii  at 
section  files  off  to  the  recitation-room,  where  the  tutor  offici- 
ates for  an  hour;  the  breakfast  in  the  long  hall  again  assent- 
bles  the  entire  number  of  the  students  and  tutors  in  due  or- 
der and  propriety,  and  five  or  ten  minutes  only  are  allowed  to 
partMkeof  this  meal,  when  at  the  well-known  tap  of  the  pre- 
siding officer,  the  whole  ri^o,  ^race  is  pronounced,  and  the 
students  are  dismissed  until  nine  o'clock,  when  each  pursupg 
his  studies  in  his  allotted  roon*,  for  two  hours,  and  then  reiiorts. 
to  the  recitation  room,  as  before,  for  an  hour;  dinner  again 
assembles  the  mass  of  students  i::>  the  college  dining  hall  for  a 
brief  period,  when  they  disperse  for  exercise  and  retreaiinn 
until  two  o'clock,  and  then  rMire  to  their  rooms  for  study 
until  four — pass  another  hour  in  the  recitation-room,  or  in 
hearini;  a  lecture  from  a  ptofcssor— again  assemble  in  the 
ehapel  for  prayers  at  six,  and  after  the  evening  meal  are  re- 
quired to  be  in  their  respective  rooms  at  study  for  a  certain 
time,  when  the  lights  are  to  be  extinguished. 

This  uniform  routine  may  be  varied,  but  the  custom  of 
partaking  of  the  meals  together,  under  the  management  of  a 
8t«*ward  of  respectability,  thr.t  makes  all  the  purchases  of 
provisions  at  the  lowest  cash  price,  is,  that  the  students  may, 
by  this  arrangement,  be  provided  for  at  cost  prices  and  at  a 
trifling  remuneration  for  the  lahor  of  the  cooks  and  purvey* 
era  in  addition  ;  the  average  price  of  weekly  board,  on  sti  iking 
the  n>;*7terly  balance,  may  be  put  down  at  from  $1  50  to  $3. 
The  tuition  bills  are  $10  per  quarter. 

Strangers  that  may  happen  to  be  in  this  city  on  Sun  Jay, 
and  think  proper  to  attend  the  divine  services  at  the  college 
chape!  ai  the  usual  hours,  ten  and  two,  and  in  witnesfing  the 
asseinlilage  of  young  men  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States 
but  principally  from  the  eastern  and  middle  States,  and  in 
hearing  the  theological  lectures  of  the  morning  and  afternoon, 
may  be  highly  gratified. 

The  lectures  cf  the  celebrated  and  highly  gifted  Professor 
of  chemistry,  mineralogy,  and  geology,  can  he  attended  hy 
procuring  cards  of  admission,  and  the  maf^iujlcent  collection 
of  minerals^  before  referred  to,  occupying  the  room  above  the 
dining-hall,  and  consisting  of  60,000  specimens,  displayed  in 
glazed  cabinets  scientifically  arranged,  and  worth,  at  a  mode- 
rate estimation,  30,000  to  40,000  dollars,  and  (when  taken 
in  connection  with  the  Trumbull  gallery)  would,  of  itseifi 
most  richly  rewi^r;!!  the  visiter. 


•'•■■  -i- 


\-<&^rlf- 


Yale  College* 


207 


The  annual  commencement  ii  on  the  third  Wednesday 
in  August.* 

'  Tale  College  Expensea. 

'  The  college  bills  nre  made  out  by  the  treasurer  and  iteward  three 
time!}  a  year,  at  the  close  ufeach  term,  and  are  presented  to  the  studcoti^ 
who  dm  required  to  present  them  to  iheir  parents,  guardians,  or  patrona. 
Ifany student faila  to  comply  with  this  requisition,  he  is  not  permitted 
to  recite  tdl  the  bills  are  paid.  The  anuual  charges  in  tlie  treasurer's  bill 
•re. 

For  instruction, $33  00 

For  rent  of  chamber  in  college,  from  $6  to  |12— average,  9  00 

For  ordinary  repairs  and  couiingencies,       .        .        .        .       2  40 
For  geueral  damages,  sweeping,  Ac.  about,       ...  3  30 

For  wood  for  recitation- rooms,  about, 1  30 

Total,      .  $49  00 

Besides  this,  the  student  may  be  charged  for  damages  done  by  himselO 
and  a  small  sum  for  printing!  catalogues  and  other  nccasiouHl  expenses. 

Boud  is  furnished  in  commons  by  the  steward  ut  cobt,  altout  $1  e7  a 
week,  or  $75  a  yeiir,  not  including  vacations.  It  varies,  however,  with 
the  price  of  provisions.  Wood  in  procured  by  the  corporation,  and  dia- 
trlbuted  to  tho^e  etudnnts  who  apply  for  it  at  cost  and  charges. 

The  sMdenis  provide  fur  theinnelves  bed  and  beddintt,  furniture  for 
their  rooms,  candles,  books,  stationar}',  and  waHhing.  There  are  also  iu 
tii«  several  cr3asi<e8,  taxes  of  a  small  amount,  for  the  fuel  in  the  rec-itatiru- 
rooms,  cUaiogiiPS,  &c.  If  l>ooks  and  furniture  are  »old  when  the  stndtiiit 
has  no  furtlier  necessity  for  them,  the  expeuiies  incurred  by  their  use 
will  not  be  great. 

The  Ibllowing  may  be  considered  as  a  true  estimate  of  the  neces^^ary 
flxpen8e^,  without  including  apparel,  pocket-money,  traveling,  and  board 
in  vacations : 

Treitiirer's  bill  as  above. 

Board  in  cominonn,  40  weeks. 

Fuel  and  light 

Ube  of  books  rented  und  »iiation<iry, 

Use  of  furniture,  bed  and  bedding, 

Wasliing, 

Taxes  iu  the  classes,  &c. 

-'■■•':"■■■  ^K^i-'i:-:'  i'-.^.  ,  ■  To'^U,        $150      to      $;J00 

No  student*  are  permitted  to  tnke  lodgings  ip  town,  except  when  the 
rooms  ill  college  are  not  iiuffl<-ieiit  lo  accominodate  idl. 

Siudents  who  widi  ill  the  hHll  are  allowetl  tlio  boiird,  and  those  who  oc- 
cupy (he  recitation-rnom»  nave  their  room-rent  und  fuel  in  winter,  and  ro» 
ceiveH  ^m•dl  •.onipens.ition  in  snniin-r.  A  cheap  lioarding-liou^e  i»npen- 
ei,  under  ibedireciionof  the  stewunl,  for  iho«e  sindentH  who  wish  board 
at  a  loArer  rat)'  tlian  it  is  furnished  in  commoi;^.  The  price  of  board  here 
ii>  about  $t  2.1. 

Hy  n  redolve  of  the  corporntion,  a  sum  not  exceeding  $l,nCO  a  year 
i>  appropriated  to  UiortUef  of  indigent  ktudttnts,aud  the  encourag«ueuk 
ofmenu 


•     • 

$49  00 

$49  00 

from 

70  00 

to 

80  00 

< 

800 

16  00 

« 

5  00 

15  00 

t( 

5  00 

15  00 

«< 

8  00 

18  00 

" 

5  UO 

7  00 

^8 


^€w  Haven. 


There  are  in  this  city  two  Episcopal,  six  Congregational,  two 
Methodist,  one  Baptist,  and  one  Roman  Catholic  churches,  a 
State  house  and  court  rooms  of  elegant  and  correct  Grecian 
architecture,  on  the  upper  green ;  an  extensive  hotel  or  ton- 
tine, and  a  jail  facing  the  lower  green ;  a  state  hospital  of  stone, 
stuccoed  on  the  outside,  and  with  a  portico  of  lour  columns, 
the  edifice  being  two  and  a  half  stories  high,  with  an  attic, 
and  is  118  fcvft  front  and  48  in  depth,  with  20  rooms,  besides 
the  basement;  the  erection  is  on  a  hill  in  the  south-west,  with 
a  view  of  the  city  and  harbor,  and  does  honor  to  the  State, 
and  to  the  citizens  that  contributed  to  its  formation,  it  being 
a  strictly  charitable  and  free  institution  for  all  that  may  so  re- 
quire it;  a  custom  house,  four  banks,  10  printing-offices,  one 
daily  and  three  weekly  papers,  four  religious  publications, 
and  the  American  Journal  of  Science  and  Arts,  edited  by 
Professor  Silliman,  that  has  for  20  years  sustained,  in  the 
most  praise-worthy  and  honorable  manner,  th^  scientific 
reputation  of  this  country,  and  identified  himself  with  its  far- 
famed  prosperity. 

The  population  in  1838,  is  estimated  at  12,500,  and  about 
1.600  housesi  usually  of  wood,  two  stories  high,  neat  and  com- 
fortable,  but  not  expensive ;  there  are  some  of  brick,  and  the 
area  occupied  by  the  city  and  the  intermingling  of  gardens, 
public  squares,  on  a  most  liberal  scale,  causes  an  apparent 
expansion  to  the  ground  plat,  adequate  to  a  much  greater 
population.  The  natural  surface  is  sandy,  dry,  but  by  culti- 
vation makes  good  gardens,  and  is  quite  productive. 

The  steam-boat  landing  is  at  the  bridge  crossing  to  East 
Haven  at  the  head  of  the  harbor,  and  near  the  dep6t  and 
rail-road  leading  through  the  town  to  Hartford,  a  distance 
of  34  miles — time,  two  hours-— fare,  $2.  Stages  and  hacks 
are  always  in  attendance  to  take  strangers. 

Here  are  12  coach  makers^  some  of  them  doing  a  large 
business,  and  the  total  estimated  at  half  a  million  of  dollars 
annually,  besides  the  auxiliary  branches  of  plating,  coach 
spring  and  step  making.  Boots  and  shoes,  ready  made 
clothing,  cabinet  work ;  chairs  are  made  to  a  considerable 
amount,  also  carpeting. 

The  beautiful  residences  and  villas  of  many  of  the  citizens« 
and  a  glance  at  the  squares  and  at  the  churches  on  the  green, 
and  at  the  neat  and  extensive  burial-place  in  the  north-west 
part  of  the  cuy,  with  its  monuments  and  shaded  walks,  may 
all  be  viewed  and  comprised  in  an  agreeable  ride  or  proms* 
nade« 


WhitneyvUU^CoUon  Gin, 


209 


President  Dwight,  of  Y«le  College,  the  author  ofthe  work 
on  liK'oloify ;  Eli  Whitney,  the  inventor  of  the  Cotton  Gin, 
and  the  "Arkwright*'  ot  thiri  country  for  ingenuity;  Noah 
\V<^bsier,  the  philologist  n  id  nuliior  ofthe  he^t  and  most  ex- 
tensive Dictionary  ofthe  Eiitfiish  language,  that  cngHge<i  hiui 
4')vtiarM  in  thec«Mn|iilHiinn;  R^ger  6liernian,oneof  ihehigneri 
ofthe  Dctilarution  of  Indepen  iunce,  and  author  of  the  decimal 
currency  ot'U  S  ,  were  retiidentsof  this  place  (or  many  years. 
Two  miles  north  east  from  New  Haven,  aa  we  pioceid  by 
the  old  turnpike  on  our  route  to  Harttbrd,  we  arrive  at  H  hit- 
neyville  Ihat  was  selected  hy  Eli  Whitney  as  the  site  of  his 
ccletuuted  ^iin  factory  in  179S — the  situation  at  the  base  of 
the  Ea!*t  Rock,  with  a  gO'  d  water  power  ut  comniand,  is  judi> 
clous;  large  quantities  of  fire  arms  were  here  manufactured; 

it  ai  present  belongs  to Blaise. 

Mr.  Whitney,  by  the  invention  of  the  cotton  gin,  a  machine 
to  Heparaie  the  seeds  of  the  cotton  from  the  filaments,  has 
conferred  inestimable  beiiefil  on  his  country,  as  pievioua  to 
this  simple  but  ingenious  contrivance,  the  t»low  method  of 
picking  out  and  separating  the  seeds  by  hand  was  used  ;  and 
one  pound  of  cotton,  thus  imperfectly  cleaned,  was  said  to  be 
a  dity*s  woik,  but  with  the  u^e  ot  the  gin  bl  thousand  pounds  a 
day  may  be  done,  and  more  eirectuully. 

Cotton  could  not  profitably  be  exported  under  the  old  8ys> 
tcni  of  hand  picking,  but  at  present  forms  the  principal  item 
of  our  foreign  export  trade,  to  tb  unouni  of  ^80,000,000  to 
$1(10,000,000,  besides  ihequaiitii^  on^nmed  in  the  United 
States,  about  one-fouith  as  much;  ttiis  incoix-eivahle  aniount 
of  onr  national  resources  and  means  of  butter  with  foreign 
nations  has  arisen  entirely  since  1788,  and  is  thv  result  o>  VI r. 
Whitney's  perfect  invention,  that  at  once  trebled  in  value  the 
iHuds  and  the  latiors  of  the  old  southern  States  and  planters. 
Bui  Mr.  Wiiitney  never  reaped  any  essential  l>eiiefit  from  his 
patent,  from  the  multiplicity  of  persons  that  inlriitgv  d  upon 
iiim  on  every  side,  and  that  set  at  defiance  all  his  claims  and 
the  constituted  authorities. 

This  neat  village,  that  presents  its  row  of  substantiHl  .ue 
hou'-^es,  of  two  sioriejt,  stuccoed  and  whitened,  and  tiic:  !»pa- 
ciuu!i  factory  a.id  workshops  aJjaceni,  that  yield  employment 
to  the  population,  is  a  fair  sample  of  many  such  places  that 
vill  he  encouniered  by  the  travel  ■  in  his  progress  through 
the  eastern  Slates.  The  stream  that  is  here  p  ssed  yiehls 
uumeruus  gites  for  luilis  and  machinery,  and  at  tho  Cariuei 

18* 


810 


Farmington  Canal-^  Rail-road  to  Hartford. 


works,  six  and  a  half  miles  from  New  Haven,  ii  a  factorj  for 
making  coach  and  elliptic  springs,  steps,  and  azietreea,  one 
carriage,  one  brass  factory,  one  paper-mill,  and  others  of  a  mi- 
nor kind,  besides  an  orchard  of  mulberry  trees,  of  100  acres, 
and  silk  making  therewith  connected. 

*'  Mount  Cartnel,  eight  miles  north  of  this  city,  is  of  a  conical 
shape  6  or  809  feet  in  elevation,  and  is  of  a  '  ery  conspicuous 
and  striking  character  in  its  outline  as  the  city  is  approached, 
and  has  a  rather  precipitous  front  towards  the  west.  At  its 
base  is  a  contracted  gap,  through  which  passes  the  Mill  River, 
theold  turnpike,  and  the  Farmington  Canal,  here  cut  in  rock. 
This  canal  extends  from  the  sea  side  at  New  Haven,  near  the 
head  of  the  long  wharf,  and  passing  through  the  centre  of 
the  city,  winds  round  to  the  west,  near  where  the  traveler 
crosses  it  on  leaving  the  city,  not  far  from  the  new  burying- 
ground,  and  the  mansions  of  James  Hillhouse,  Esq,  and  of 
Professor  Silliman,  and  is  continued,  in  a  northerly  direction, 
throug:h  Hampden,  Cheshire,  Southington,  and  Farmington, 
where  it  crosses  the  river  of  thut  name,  and  pursues  its  valley 
north  to  Simsbury,  and  thence  to  Granby,  and  in  Massachu* 
setts,  Southwick  and  Westfield,  where  it  crosses  the  tuo  rivers 
of  that  name,  in  Hampden  county,  and  thence  into  South- 
ampton, in  Hampshire  county,  terminating  at  Northampton. 
That  part  ofthe  canal  within  the  Massachusetts  boundary, 
and  of  the  charter  of  that  State,  is  the  Hampshire  and  Hamp- 
den Canal,  and  the  total  length  from  New  Haven  to  North- 
ampton is  63  miles,  with  a  rise  of  140  feet.  This  may,  at 
a  future  day,  be  valuable  stock  for  'he  proprietors,  but  it  is 
at  this  time  difficult  to  say  what  pecuniary  motives  could 
have  operated  to  prompt  or  urge  the  construction  of  this  work. 


The  Raii«road  to  Hartford 


*»yvki 


extends  from  ihe  eastern  part  of  New  Haven,  called  theNewr 
Township,  round  in  front  of  the  East  Rock  before  described, 
and  then  assumes  a  route  up  the  valley  of  the  Quinnipiag, 
through  Northhavcn  and  Wallingford  to  Meriden,  and  thence 
to  Berlin. 

The  grade  is  highly  favorable,  and  crosses  the  Quinnipiag 
River  two  milen  east  of  New  Havct  near  the  village  of  Fair- 
haven,  where  there  is  a  bridge,  and  a  village  of  a  thousand 
inhabitants,  and  a  Methodist  and    i  Congregational  churchy 


vicifiity  €j  JiaTtfonlt 


'/. 


end  an  acndemy.  The  oyster  trade  is  the  principal  bniineM 
of  the  inhabitants  from  October  to  April.  They  are  brought 
here  in  great  quantities,  and  planted  in  beds  in  the  salt 
water,  and  when  fattened  or  fit  for  market,  are  taken  up 
and  sold,  employing  many  boats.  Twenty  vessels,  amount- 
ing to  1,180  tons,  are  owned  here;  six  trade  to  the  West 
Indies,  the  others  engage  in  coasting.  The  procuring  and 
selling  of  building  stone,  with  which  this  town  abounds,  ia 
another  source  of  attention,  also  the  making  of  lime  from 
oyster  shelh. 

In  proceeding  through  North  Haven,  the  most  important 
feature  of  the  landscape  is  the  wide  and  beautiful  tracts  of 
salt  meadows  along  the  Quinnipiag  River,  studded  with  stacks 
of  hay  in  the  summer  season,  and  only  removable  during  the 
thick  ice  of  winter.  The  northern  part  of  the  vnlley  is  sand, 
subject  in  small  places  to  be  drifted,  but  the  ot'ier  parts  hava 
a  thin  covering  of  loam,  of  a  reddish  cast,  and  better  in 
<}uality.  Millions  of  brick  are  here  made  for  the  city.  The 
lea'^ned  Ezra  Stiles,  the  President  of  Yale  College  from  1778 
to  1795,  was  born  in  this  town  ;  and  Dr.  Trumbull,  the  histo- 
rian of  Connecticut,  was  the  minister  of  the  Congregational 
church  here  for  near  60  years,  and  his  regular  salary  for  that 
period  was  only  four  hundred  dollars  a  year:  he  died  Febru- 
ary 2,  1^J20,  aged  85.  His  rej>idence  was  the  house  south  of 
the  Episcopal  church.  New  edifices  of  brick  have  lately  been 
erected  for  the  two  churches  above. 

The  road  proceeds  up  the  valley  to  Wallingford,  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  Quinnipiag,  13  miles  from  Netv  Haven,  and 
along  the  Wallingford  plams,  that  are  four  miles  long  and 
three-quarters  of  a  mile  wide,  one  of  the  most  sterile  and 
extensive  tracts  of  level  land  in  the  State.  The  prevailing 
surface  of  this  township  of  land,  however,  for  seven  miles 
east  and  west  by  six  in  breadth,  is  moderate  hills  and  dales, 
and  mountains  in  the  east.  There  are  several  mills  and  fac- 
tories on  the  river;  at  Yaleville  i«t  one  of  britannia  and  tin 
ware,  and  one  for  wood  screws.  The  principal  village  occu- 
pies an  elevated  site  a  mile  AP«t  of  \:ke  river,  on  two  parallel 
streets  on  the  ridge  of  the  hil! ;  the  one  on  the  west  is  over  a 
mile  long.  There  are  three  churches,  and  only  one  with  a 
steeple. 

Lyman  Hale,  one  of  the  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  In- 
dependence, was  a  native  of  this  town.  He  graduated  at 
Yalo  Collei^o  in  1747,  and  at  first  made  theology,  and  aAer 


212 


Meriden^Manvfaeturn. 


I 


■ 


thnt  medicine,  hUprnfeaflinn,  and  went  to  Georgia  find  retiidrd 
at  Miiitvuy;  wftnl  tu  lh»:  cotiiiiit^ntal  C«>n^ie8s  in  1775,  and 
was  atleru'tirdo  (iovernor  of  Ueorgia,  nnd  during  spvurul 
yeuis  ivHJdcd  at  Savannah,  and  after,  in  the  upper  pari  of 
thai  SmK',  where  he  di<>d  in  i7l)0. 

It  has  b>  t'li  sngijesied  that  ih<;  Connecticut  River  formprly 
had  one  oi'  its  outtets  ahtng  :ii6  wide  vale  extending  Iruin 
Durham  and  to  the  Soi  nd  al  New  Haven. 

Mcriltn  is  17  mdes  tVoni  New  Havtn  and  from  Hariford, 
and  is  ihu:^  the  half-way  hou'^e,  and  hoaatsot  having  one  of  the 
beet  houses  of  entertainment  on  the  road 

At  a  distance  of  three  mih's  to  the  west  \»  seen  another 
considerable  nioutttain  range  and  peak,  of  the  trap  or  f>rren< 
stone  formation,  that  Dr.  Dwis^hl  gtarrs  in  his  travels  waa 
gome  yars  sin  'eculleii  Mtninl  Lamentation,  from  the  singular 
circumstance  <if  Colonel  Chester,  one  of  the  principal  inha* 
bit  ants  of  WetheriaHeld,  having  been  h)St  in  wundeiuii;  in  its 
\iciniiy.  It  is  certainly  the  nio?<t  elevait  d  point  in  the  ran^e, 
and  is  (:ons|iicuous  for  miles,  and  is  probably  over  a  thousand 
feet  above  li<le. 

The  manufactures  of  this  town  have  made  the  people  weal- 
thy, viz.  two  for  patent  auLMirs  and  angur-bits,  three  lor  ivory 
ccnnbs,  six  for  tin,  and  four  for  Ixitannia  uare,  three  for  block 
tin  spoons,  oneeach  for  coflvc-mtlls,  clo(>kH,door  latchef,  wood 
conil>-i.  skates  and  iron  rakes,  giidirons,  and  two  iron  foni)de« 
rie* — the  vahie  of  the  aggregate  production  being  .$800,000 
to  $1,000,000  >euily;  a  bank  capital  of  $100,000.  There 
is  an  Epi'copal,  a  Baptist,  and  a  CongregalionHi  church. 
On  the  road  from  Meriden  to  Beilin  ts  a  narrow  and  romantic 
glen,  between  two  ridges  of  the  Bine  Mountains,  of  a  mile  in  ex- 
tent, known  as  the  Cat  Hde  or  Ltn  of  the  ferocious  catamount, 
the  form'T  tiger  and  terror  of  this  fearful  pass,  that  in  S'.me 
pat  til  >ietds  scanty  pathway,  from  the  fallnig  down  of  small 
angular  pieces  of  rock  from  the  precipices,  forming  the  u-ual 
slope  of  45degrees.  A  tew  yardttio  the  south,  by  examining 
the  impending  face  and  anules  of  the  precipice,  the  profile uf 
a  homau  fare  c»n  readily  brf  deterted.  having  the  lineuinenis 
ol  General  Washington.  A  much  rnoie  remarkable  profile  is 
described  in  this  volume,  in  Franeonia,  in  New  Hamp- 
shire, (see  Index.)  In  1784  the  first  stage  in  C«nnuc- 
ticnt  ran  through  iiere,  on  the  old  road  to  the  west,  now  occu- 
pied by  the  rail-road.  At  a  certain  part  of  the  Cat  Hole  pass, 
i«e  may  be  oblaititid  at  all  times,  beucath  the  huge  iuaa»ib«A  of 


Berlin — Manufatiuret, 


213 


cock  that  lie  heaped  around  in  confusion,  as  they  have  been 
precipitated  from  the  surrounding  crags  and  eminences. 

A  spring  beneath  «ends  forth  its  water  of  an  icy  coldness, 
and  a  handsome  village  extends  about  a  mile  on  the  road, 
where  it  occupies  a  beautiful  eminence,  and  has  agreeable 
views. 

Btrlin^  or  Wcrlhin^ton,  is  our  next  settlement,  and  is  33 
miles  from  New  Haven,  1 1  from  Hartford,  and  8  from  Wcth- 
ersfield ;  has  80  dwelling  houses,  five  stores,  a  Congregational, 
a  Methodist,  and  Uiiiversalist  church,  and  an  academy.  The 
southern  termination  of  the  green-stone  range  of  mountains 
is  within  a  short  distance.  Ten  thousand  boxes  of  tinned 
plates  have  here  been  made  into  culinary  vessels  in  one  year. 

The  manufacture  of  tin  ware  has  been  for  a  century  past 
the  chief  employment  of  the  people  in  this  township,  but  this 
is  now  especially  the  case  in  the  parish  of  New  Britain,  that 
is  situated  five  miles  north-west  of  Berlin,  and  three  west  of 
the  rail- road,  and  that  is  only  15  yeani  since  the  first  house 
was  built,  around  a  marshy  spot,  that  has  since  been  drained, 
and  now  the  village  contains  from  1,.^00  to  2, 000  in  habitants, 
with  three  places  of  public  worship,  a  Congregational,  Meth* 
odist,  and  Baptist,  and  45  factories  of  brass,  and  some  of  tin. 
employing  700  hands,  and  a  ct^pital  of  $650,000«  It  is  10 
miles  from  Hartford,  and  28  from  New  Haven.  If  the  cu- 
rious traveler  can  spare  time  vo  step  aside  to  visit  this  indus- 
trious place,  the  seat  of  industry  from  whence  proceed  those 
welcome  messengers  of  household  comfort  throughout  the 
land,  the  pedler's  wagon,  loaded  with  utensils  and  imple- 
ments of  tin,  brass,  &.C.,  he  can  examine  the  germs  and  the  de- 
tails, or  minutise,  of  this  noisy,  bright,  and  profitable  trade, 
that  has  contributed  essentially  to  the  fame  and  prosperity  of 
a  worthy  class  of  men,  that  have  been  much  traduced  abroad, 
but  at  home  are  much  respected. 

Newington,  a  village  of  650  inhabitants,  and  a  Congrega- 
tional and  a  Methodist  church,  is  situated  in  a  vale  at  the  west 
of  Cedar  Mountain,  that  is  passed  by  the  traveler  in  a  short 
distance  east.  About  a  century  and  a  half  since,  the  first 
settlers  built  a  dwelling  that  was  used  for  years  as  a  fort, 
and  had  a  high  wall  to  guard  against  surprise  from  the  abo- 
rigines, that  were  very  numerous,  and  resided  near  a  pond 
for  the  facility  of  fishing.  The  fort  was  resorted  to  at  night 
bj  mM  the  whites. 


214 


Asylunufor  Deaf  and  Dumb,  and  Intone. 


;^"»^4:i*'iWA 


■«.,.li'',.<-  .■■■/»^-- '■<»-.  *ii:.l', ■:!■•■.: 

Hartfordy 


J*T 


Upon  the  Connecticut  River,  htm  about  12,000  inhabitants^ 
and  is  50  miles  from  iho  mouih  of  the  river,  ami  123  from 
Mew-York,  and  it  alternately  with  New  Haven  the  «eat  of 
the  Legislature ;  and  hai<  a  Slate  House  on  the  principal 
•quarc,  and  a  City  Hall,  of  elegant  appearance,  with  a  portico 
ot  six  cidiiinns  at  each  front.  The  neinhboringf  country  it 
fertile,  and  the  whole  county  ranks  wiih  Hampshire  and 
Hampden  in  Massachusetts,  in  fertility,  wealth,  population 
and  intelligence. 

The  Jimerican  Asylum  for  the  f/ea/and  dumb,  the  first  of 
the  kind  e5ttal»IiKhed  in  the  United  States,  wa<«  founded  in  this 
city  in  1815,  and  the  present  edifice  was  built  in  1820,  and  is 
ISOIeot  lon^,  5(>  wide,  and  four  stories  hi^h,  beHides  a  dming 
hall  and  workshops  for  the  males  ;  there  are  10  acres  uf  land 
for  cidtivHtion,  and  ample  room  for  exercise.  From  the  small 
beginning  of  seven  pupils  it  now  has  an  average  of  140  on 
the  premiseH.  They  usually  remain  four  or  five  yeais,  and 
pay  $100  each  a  year;  are  in  nine  classes,  with  a  tea«  lier  to 
each,  and  a  |»rincipal,  (Mr.  J.  H.  Galkudet,)  that  has  the  su- 
pervision iind  instruction  of  the  whole,  and  a  steward  and  a 
matron,  to  manage  the  houseliohl.  It  has  partaken  of  the 
bounty  of  the  State  and  of  the  nation,  in  a  valuable  town- 
ship of  land  in  Alabama,  27,000  acres,  and  the  proceeds  saf^- 
ly  iuvpsli'd.  This,  and  the  other  benevrdent  establishments 
that  reflect  so  much  liomtr  on  the  enlitjbtcned  citizens  of 
Hartftrd,  are  ait  well  located  uithe  vicinity  of  the  city,  and 
draw  hither  the  philanthropic  and  intellijy;ent  stranger  on 
the  afternoons  of  Wednesday,  when  nil  the  classes  of  deaf 
nn<l  dumb  may  be  seen,  and  the  process  of  nistruction  by 
siguo  ;  and  at  other  limrs  two  of  the  clarises  only  are  visible. 
T  The  system  purt>ued  is  the  French,  modified  by  Mr,  GhN 
liiidet  and  hix  H^ni^tants,  and  is  the  natural  laoguntre  of 
feigns,  or  those  that  a  dumb  one  will  use  linfore  cotYiuig  here, 
co'iibniirit;  pictorial,  descriptive  or  corwentionai,  and  in  the 
suhod  rnoni  i<i  nxed  naioral  and  systematic  sign>*  for  lan- 
guage, an  i  the  manual  alphabet  and  wiitten  symitols,  to  ex- 
pre!*s  ihf*  granimalicul  rr  Istifn;*  of  words. 

Tin*  Relrmt  for  the  Iiisant  is  an  exl^^nsive  edifice  of  un- 
hekvii  lret»>4«o(i<»,  overed  wiih  water-pi-oof  cement,  white,  and 
conciiits  of  a  square  centre  editice  of  three  stories,  auU  5U  fwd 


Wathin^n  College. 


215 


hi  front,  with  two  wings  of  two  storicf,  containing  the  corri- 
dort,  each  of  —  feet,  and  terminating  at  each  end  in  threo 
ftorioftf  of  the  proper  proportion.  It  isiitiiated  one  mite  and 
a  quarter  f^oin  the  city,  in  a  south-west  defection,  on  an  emi- 
nence tliat  overlooks  ihe  beautiful  vale  of  the  Comieclicut, 
and  unfficiently  near  the  public  road  to  have  a  degree  of  ani- 
mation imparled  to  the  inniatea  and  Iteholdem,  from  the 
liveliness  of  the  moving  carriages  and  vehicles,  and  the  agree- 
able composition  of  the  landscape. 

Extensive  gardens  and  walks,  covering  17  acres,  are  attach- 
ed to  these  preiniscH,  for  the  recreniipn  and  health  of  iho 
inmates  that  are  indulged  with  this  liberty,  and  to  others  are 
allotted  court-yards,  so  arranged  and  guarded  by  high  walls 
and  fences  as  to  allow  the  benefit  of  fresh  air  and  exercise  to 
those  whom  it  would  not  be  .safe  to  permit  to  roam  in  t,>e  more 
open  grounds  ■ 

Riding  and  other  amusements  not  doors,  and  a  copious 
library  and  reading-room  within,  furnished  with  light  and 
amusing  Works,  and  newspapers  and  perio<licals,  form  an 
fasy  method  to  beguile  them  into  a  temporary  forget  fulness 
of  their  unfiirtunate  condition. 

The  mild  and  tender  means  here  used  have  been  crowned 
with  the  happiest  success;  and  when  contrasted  with  the 
harsh  and  unfeeling  way  formerly  exhibited,  l>efore  the  adop« 
tion  of  this  christian  system,  in  Ihe  retreats  of  the  prtient 
day,  every  generous  and  feeling  heart  cannot  but  nutrk  and 
bless  the  change. 

IVashingfon  College  is  an  institution  of  twelve  years  stand- 
ing, under  Bpiscopal  influence  and  management,  and  has  a 
president,  six  professors,  and  two  tutors,  and  80  students, 
with  a  collection  of  eight  or  nine  ihousMnd  volumes,  a  garden 
and  ^reen  house,  and  a  cabinet  of  minerals,  philosophical 
apparatus,  and  laboratory.  Its  buildings  are  of  the  sand- 
stone  of  this  region  ^  one  of  148  fi'ci  by  43,  and  four  storief 
high,  contains  48  rooms  for  dormitories  and  study  ;  and  one 
Si  by  53.  and  three  sturjes  high,  with  n  tower,  and  colonnade, 
and  portico,  for  the  chapel,  library,  cabinet,  lecture,  and  recita- 
tion-rooms. It  is  in  a  flourishing  condition ;  the  anniial 
commencement  the  first  Thursday  in  August.  '^i^  ' 

The  city  presents  a  tolerably  compact  front  of  about  a  mile 
vn  the  river,  and  extends  back  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  and 
has  many  handsome  and  attractive  private  residences,  and 
itiseps  in  employ  a  daily  line  of  first* rate  st€am<>boat8  to  New* 


111 


216 


Wad9Wor1h*»  Toieer'^Eati  Hartford* 


York,  the  price  of  paisage  bfeing  very  fluctuating,  from  0119 
to  two  dollars,  and  the  time  occapying  about  12  hours.  There 
are  also  two  steam  passenger- boats  employed  between  this 
and  Springfield,  and  several  others  in  towing  flat  boats  of  15^ 
to  30  tons  to  Wellx*  river,  220  miles  up,  and  to  the  interme- 
diate towns  on  the  Connecticut.  There  is  also  a  limited 
foreign  and  coasting  trade  in  sloops,  &c. 

The  manufacturing  industry  of  this  place  produces,  by  re- 
cent computation,  near  a  million  of  dollars  annually,  from  the 
tin,  copper  and  sheet  iron,  block  tin  and  pewter ;  boots  and 
shoes,  hats,  soap,  candles,  printing-presses,  ink,  books,  sad- 
dlery, carriages,  paper-hangings,  looking-glasses,  unrbrellas^ 
■tone  ware,  cabinet  furniture,  machinery,  wire-cards,  web- 
ing,  founderies  for  iron  castings,  clothing;  twelve  weekly^ 
two  semi*monthIy  and  one  monthly  newspapers.  There  are 
five  Congregational,  one  Episcopal,  two  Baptist,  one  Me« 
thodist,  one  IFniversalist,  one  Roman  Catholic,  and  one  Afri- 
can  places  of  public  worship.  The  Episcopal,  and  some  of  the 
other  churches,  are  tasteful  edifices.  There  are  five  banks, 
a  bank  for  savings,  three  insurance  offices,  two  markets,  a 
museum,  arsenal,  &c.  There  is  a  bridge  of  f,000  feet  in 
length,  cost  $100,000,  that  crosses  the  Connecticut  River  to 
East  Hartford,  and  another  bridge  of  one  arch,  of  sandstone^ 
over  the  Mill  River,  of  100  feet  width,  seven  feet  in  thickness 
at  the  base,  and  three  feet  three  inches  at  the  centre,  and  30* 
feet  above  the  bed  of  the  river.  '   '*» 

Wadswortli's  Tower,  at  Monte  Video,  about  sevew  miles  in 
a  westerly  direction  from  Hartford,  on  the  summit  of  Talcot 
Mountain,  is  a  conspicuous  obfect  for  miles  around,  being 
about  800  to  1,000  feet  above  the  river,  and  having  a  very 
extensive  panorama  and  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  Farmingtow 
Valley,  river,  and  canal,  and  village,  and  the  mountain  lake, 
and  the  elegant  residence  and  grounds  of  the  tasteful  own- 
er, D.  Wadsworth,  Esq.  -'     t'^V     .^^ 

At  West  Hat  I  ford  is  another  instance  of  a  clergyman  (Dr^ 
N.  Perkins)  having  ofiiciated  for  near  70  years  in  the  same 
pulpit. 

East  Hartford.  The  causeway  connected  with  the  Hartford 
bridge  over  Connecticut  River,  extends  about  a  mile  in  a  di- 
rect course  across  the  meadows  to  the  main  street  in  East 
Hartford,  and  on  reaching  this  position,  near  the  new  and 
elegant  Congregational  church,  the  travder  cannot  but  ad- 
nire  the  noMe  rMtge  of  elms  that  adorns  and  distinguishes 


/:k«S^  £a$l  Hartford,     %^^-> 


■%i:^S 


217 


this  town,  and  with  the  other  ornamental  trees  at  the  side  of 
this  spacious  street,  forms  a  vista  of  great  extent  and  depth  of 
shade,  that,  in  the  heat  of  summer,  and  the  season  of  full  ver- 
dure, must  render  this  a  most  desirable  residence. 

Due  praise  should  be  awarded  to  those  towns  and  cities 
where  (He  inhabitants  have  exhibited  such  a  praiseworthy  ex- 
ample oi  taste  and  liberality,  in  planting,  and  cultivating,  and 
preserving  these  venerable  trees  for  a  series  of  year$,  such 
being  the  best,  cheapest,  and  most  efficient  and  gratifying 
way  of  endearing  a  town  to  the  residents  and  visiters,  and  ele- 
vating and  ennobling  the  public  taste. 

Most  of  the  inhabitants  in  this  town  reside  on  one  street, 
about  three* quarters  of  a  mile  from,  and  parallel  with,  the 
river,  and  it  extends  north  and  south  for  15  or  20  miles,  from 
Glastenbury  to  East  Windsor. 

The  meadows  along  the  Connecticut  are  proverbial  for 
their  inexhaustible  fertility,  caused  by  the  annual  inundation, 
or  freshet,  in  the  spring,  and  occasionally  by  heavy  rains  in 
summer.  After  rising  fifteen  or  twenty  feet,  by  a  steep  bank, 
these  meadows  extend  three  miles  to  the  east.  The  Hocka- 
nur  River,  a  fine  mill  stream,  enters  this  town  from  the 
north-east,  and  abounds  in  water-power;  and  at  Scotland 
village,  two  and  a  half  miles  distant,  are  five  large  paper- 
mills,  where  the  paper  used  by  Congress  is  by  contract 
manufactured.  r 

At  Rocky  Hill,  three  miles  south-south-west  from  Hartford, 
on  the  old  road  to  Farmington,  is  an  open  quarry  44  feet  deep, 
affording  a  gratifying  facility  to  the  geologist  in  beholding 
the  junction  of  trap-rock  ahd  sandstone.  This  trap  ridge 
trends  north-east  and  south-west,  like  a  fortification.  The 
trap  is  28  feet  thick,  and  the  sandstone  16  beneath,  in  hori- 
zontal layers,  and  this  extends  for  nearly  a  mile  in  this  quarry, 
exhibiting  a  splendid  section  of  both  rocks,  the  red,  and  the 
green,  or  gray,  in  fine  contrast.  The  scene  here,  too,  is  re- 
markably fine,  presenting  on  the  east  the  rich  valley  of  the 
Connecticut  with  its  ci(.y  and  villages,  and  on  the  west  the 
lovely  vales  of  Newington  and  West  Hartford,  with  a  distant 
frame-work  and  border  of  hills  and  mountains  on  the  north 
and  south. 

Dutch  Pointt  at  the  mouth  of  Mill  River,  near  the  steam 
paper-mill,  is  memorable  as  being  the  site  of  the  fort  erected 
by  the  orders  of  the  Governor  of  New  Amsterdam,  when  a 


■^  ««wii!'i»*;i»tv*i-,Tp(5^ 


:v'?i' 


313 


Dutch  PoifO^Charter  Oak. 


W. 


i      !l 


smiill  force  was  tent  to  protect  the  settlement  here  attempted 
in  1638. 

The  venerable  charter  oak  yet  existf ,  at  the  foot  of  Wylly'i 
Hill,  near  the  south  meadows,  and  can  be  seen  from  the  main 
■treet.  Its  trunk  is  21  feet  in  circumference,  the  tree  is  vigor- 
ous, and  with  care  may  yet  outlive  many  generations,  al- 
though 200  years  since  it  was  in  its  prime.  The  cavity  where 
the  charter  was  concealed,  after  it  had  been  adroitly  with- 
drawn from  the  council-board,  in  1687,  in  the  dusk  of  the 
evening,  where  Sir  Edmund  Andros,  the  English  Governor, 
was  at  the  time  presiding,  and  had  come  here  expressly  to 
annul  and  take  away  this  charter  so  precious  in  the  estima- 
tion of  the  people  of  those  days,  was  near  the  roots  of  the 
tree,  and  large  enough  to  admit  a  child ;  but  within  ten  years 
past  this  cavity  has  miraculously  closed,  no  doubt  to  the 
disappointment  of  thousands  that  will  hereafter  ^visit  it,  as 
pilgrims,  from  all  parts  of  the  republic. 

The  VVyliy  family,  in  succession,  that  here  resided,  held 
the  office  of  Secretary  of  Connecticut  for  80  years  or  more, 
from  1740  to  1820. 

-  Stages  daily  communicate  with  the  towns  up'the  river  by 
good  roads  on  either  bank,  or  to  Litchfield  and  Albany  on 
the  west,  to  New  London  and  Providence  on  the  east,  or  to 
Worcester  and  Boston  by  rail-road  at  the  nearest  point  at 
Springfield. 

The  accommodations  for  travelers,  in  continuing  north  up 
the  valley  for  260  miles,  are  ample  and  satisfactory,  by  the 
river,  or  by  stage  and  by  steam  passage-boats,  to  Springfield 
and  onward. 

Five  miles  from  Hartford,  on  a  hill,  is  a  complete  view  of 
the  valley,  and  ten  miles  on,  the  houses  are  at  regular  distan- 
ces, as  it  were  a  continued  v  llage  of  decent  comfortable  re- 
sidences. The  land  has  three  grades  above  the  river,  the 
lowest  subject  to  freshets,  the  next  is  just  beyond  this  limit, 
and  the  last  is  hilly,  and  clad  with  pines. 

BissePs  Farm,  eight  miles  from  Hartlbrd,  is  seen  in  going 
to  tlie  ferry  to  East  Windsor,  and  is  a  well  managed  and 
extensive  property. 

Warehouse  Point  is  at  the  head  of  sloop  navigation,  and  is 
a  considerable  village,  13  miles  above  Hartford,  on  the  east 
shore. 
"I-  The  view  afibrded  thus  far  of  this  rich  alluvial  border  of 


Route  through  Connecticut  Valley^  Windsor.         21f 

the  Connecticut,  may  be  considered  as  a  fair  sample  of  the  en- 
tire valley  to  the  Canada  line,  and  we  are  sure  that  all  travel- 
ers, seeking  for  amusement  and  change  of  air,  and  the  most 
attractive  mountain  scenery  in  the  eastern  states,  will  derive 
much  pleasure  from  continuing  their  route  onwards  as  far  at 
the  Gulf  Road  in  Vermont^  to  Lake  Champlain,  or  up  the 
vale  to  the  White  Mountains  c  T  New  Hampbhire,  and  there 
taking  the  road  to  Portland  and  Boston.  The  roads  through- 
out are  uncommonly  good,  and  traveling  expenses  moderate, 
and  the  fare  satisfactory,  and  the  hotel  and  tavern*kcepera 
solicitous  to  please  ;  and  as  there  are  bridges  and  ferries  at 
short  distances,  both  sides  may  be  alternately  traveled,  amid 
a  dense  population  of  intelligent  and  well-informed  inhabi- 
tants, and  a  succession  of  neat  and  pleasing  rural  abodes, 
villages,  towns,  and  cities. 

Windsor.  The  first  settlement  of  this  town  was  in  Octo- 
ber, 1634,  near  the  mouth  of  Farmington  River,  two  miles 
south*eastof  the  bridge  and  church,  and  the  house  was  forti^ 
fied  against  the  Indians  and  the  Dutch  barely  in  time  to  guard 
against  their  attack,  and  to  protect  the  settlers  from  an  early 
and  severe  winter,  that  on  the  15th  November  set  in  with 
severity  and  closed  the  Connecticut. 

The  population,  consisting  of  about  1,900,  is  scattered  in 
farm  houses  along  the  public  road. 

Oliver  Ellsworth,  Chief  Judge  of  the  Supreme  Court  of 
the  United  States,  in  1796-9  resided  in  this  town,  a  mile 
north  of  the  churchy  in  the  house  with  two  pillars  and  a 
grove  of  elms  in  front,  with  one  of  the  primitive  cedar  treea 
near;  he  was  an  eminent  jurist,  and  eloquent  at  the  bar  and 
in  the  Senate  of  the  United  States ;  he  died  in  1807. 

Roger  Wolcott,  Governor  of  the  State  from  1751  to  1754, 
was  also  born  in  this  town,  1679,  and  rose,  hy  the  force  of  his 
intellect  and  native  talents,  to  the  highest  honors;  he  was  a 
poet  also,  as  may  be  seen  in  the  collection  of  the  Historical 
Society  relative  to  the  Fequot  wars ;  he  lived  to  the  venerable 
age  of  89. 

At  Pine  Meadow^  opposite  Warehouse  Point,  are  the  locks 
and  the  beginning  of  the  canal  round  the  Enfield  Falls. 

Farmington  Rtver,  the  principal  tributary  of  the  Cennecti- 
ciit,  is  crossed  as  we  proceed.  It  rises  in  Berkshire  County, 
Massachusetts,  at  the  base  of  the  Hoosack  range  of  moun- 
tains, and  runs  south-east  to  Farmington,  and  then  turns 
abruptly  to  the  northeasts 


,f' 


:.r,hy  ,• 


M 


320       Theol.  Insiitute-^Jonathan  Edwards — John  Fitch, 


East  Windsor  is  a  town  of  one  continuous  street,  with  the 
houses  straggling  for  miles  on  the  first  elevation  above  the 
meadow,  about  a  mile  east  from,  and  parallel  with,  the  river. 
The  Theological  Institute,  eight  miles  from  Hartford,  here  lo- 
cated, is  under  Presbyterian  influence,  and  was  established  in 
1834.  A  large  edifice  of  brick,  and  4  stories  in  height,  comtains 
rooms  for  52  students,  with  stoves  and  fixtures  ;  tuition  and 
room-rent  free,  and  also  the  use  of  the  library  of  3,000  vol- 
umes. A  farm  of  60  acres,  and  workshops  with  tools, 
give  adequate  exercise,  and  preserve  the  health  of  the 
students. 

Rev.  Jonathan  Edwards,  the  most  celebrated  theologian  in 
the  country,  was  born  in  this  town  in  1703,  a  mile  north  of 
the  First  Congregational  Church,  near  Staughton*s  Brook. 
His  father  was  also  a  distinguished  clergyman,  and  a  relic  of 
his  house  is  worked,  or  placed,  in  the  wall  of  the  Theological 
Institute,  from  the  homage  and  respect  that  attached  to  the 
distinguished  fame  of  the  family^  Eight  volumes  octavo 
comprise  the  labors  of  his  life  as  a  writer  on  theology,  and  his 
literary  celebrity  is  as  extensively  known  in  England  as  in 
America. 

John  Fitch*  the  undoubted  inventor  and  constructor  of  the 
first  steam-boat  in  this  country,  was  also  a  native  of  this  town, 
but  at  middle  age  removed  to  New  Brunswick,  (N.  J.)  and 
engaged  in  clock-making,  engraving,  and  as  an  armorer  dur- 
ing the  war  of  the  revolution.  In  1786  he  first  had  the  idea 
of  using  steam  as  a  power  to  propel  a  boat,  and  in  1788  he 
had  matured  it  and  acquired  a  patent,  and  with  the  aid  of  20 
friends,  that  lent  $50  each,  a  boat  was  built,  and  propelled  by 
steam  eight  miles  an  hour.  He  went  to  France^  saw  Mr.  Vail, 
our  consul  at  L'Orient,  and  with  him  left  papers  and  drawings 
that  were  exhibited  to  Fulton,  or  Livingston.  The  revolution 
there,  and  the  want  of  confidence  in  the  invention  here^  and 
of  capital,  compelled  him  to  drop  the  matter,  and  it  was  for- 
gotten. But  even  then,  (such  was  his  remark  to  Dr.  Ritieu' 
house,)  "  This  will  be  the  mode  of  crossing  the  Mlanlic  in 
time.** 

Unfortunately  this  man  lived  an  age  too  soon,  and  he  went 
to  Pittsburgh,  where  his  long  series  of  disappointments  em^ 
bittered  his  life  and  brought  it  to  a  premature  close,  by  his 
precipitating  himself  into  the  Alleghany. 

The  Connecticut  River,  at  Enfield,  is  1,000  feet  wide,  and 
the  first  bridge  over  it  in  this  State  was  made  in  1808,  on  six 


>*. 


V 


Shaker  Vitlage—SuffieUL 


331 


Itonie  piers,  on  the  rocky  bed  below ;,  it  was  30  feet  wide,  and 
cost  $26,000.  This  not  suificing,  in  1832  the  present  one  was 
put  up  on  the  plan  of  Ithiel  Town,  Esq.  of  New  Haven,  and 
like  tne  one  over  f'armington  River  at  Windsor,  at  a  cost  of 
only  $15,()00,  on  the  diagonal  or  cross-timbered  diamond 
arrangeihen^. 

A  mile  froni  Enfield  Bridge,  and  18  from  Hartford,  and 
eight  from  Springfield,  is  the  manufacturing  village  of  Thomp- 
sonville,  that  in  1828  was  commenced  for  the  making  of 
carpets;  i20  looms  are  employed,  and  800  yards  daily 
finished.  Population  800.  cir  whom  300  are  employed  in 
this  business.  <u  \      *■     .!  f     ^  ,     >  ;, 

Like  other  town^  bordering  this  river,  ISnfield  is  possessed 
of  an  endless  street,  more  or  less  dotted  over  with  houses  or 
forms,  and  on  a  parallel  with  the  river.  The  making  of  ploughs 
if  a  business  h^re^ 

The  Shaker  Village,  five  miles  north-east,  cah  here  be  visited 
if  convenient.  They  compose  about  200  porSons  that  live  in 
celibacy ;  have  50  houses,  work-shops,  storek,  &.c.  all  having 
an  aspect  of  nieatness,  comfort,  and  convenience,  differing 
from  the  world  aroUnd  them.  A  thousand  Acres  of  land,  of 
the  best  seen^  is,  under  their  industrious  management,  made 
^  source  of  wealth  ;  they  are  in  every  respett  similar  to  their 
brethren  of  the  same  principle  in  Niskayiina,  New  Lebanon, 
and  other  places,  though  not  as  numerous  or  well  known. 
Their  gardening,  horticultural,  and  manufacturing  employ- 
ments and  productions  are  in  high  repute.  Their  mode  of 
worship  and  of  dancing,  or  skipping,  is  the  great  source  of 
attraction  to  visiters  wherever  tbe^are;  they  are  under  the 
iaflnence  of  t^rtful  and  zerlous  bigots  and  leaders,  and  are 
steeped  in  ignorance  and  superstition. 

The  Podunk  and  Scantic  rivers  are  small  streams  that  run 
from  the  elevations  on  north-east,  and  have  a  south-west 
bourse  of  10  or  15  miles,  with  falls^  mills,  &,c.  and  join  the 
Connecticut  at  and  below  Windsor.  On  the  former  was  a 
large  tribe  of  Indians,  and  their  burying- ground  was  near 
where  the  Podunk  crosses  the  maitl  road. 

Saffield  township  is  considet-ed  to  be  one  of  tht  best  tracts 
of  land  in  the  State,  and  adjoins  the  Massachusetts  line.  The 
principal  street  is  over  a  mile  long,  contains  two  of  the 
churches,  Congregationalist  and  Baptist,  and  the  Connecticut 
Literary Inslitutionbelonging  to  the  Baptist  Education  Society, 
that  is  centrally  situated  16  miles  north  of  Hartford,  and  10 

19* 


'd 


ill 


222 


SuJUldt  ifdi 


\:4 


1  ^1^ 

HI  19 


south  of  Springfield.  In  1835  it  was  Incorporaittd ;  it  k  d 
brick  edifice,  72  feet  long,  34  wide,  and  four  stories  high,  and 
has  24  rooms.  There  18  a  dwelling  house  for  the  steward,  and 
16  acres  of  land,  and  he  furnishes  board  and  washing  for  the 
moderate  sum  of  $1  25  per  week  <o  the  students  that  reside 
here  to  prepare  for  the  ministry  of  this  sect,  the  most  exten- 
sively diffused  of  any  in  the  Union.  There  are  about  60  or 
100  students. 

The  street  alluded  to  occupies  a  slope,  rising  gradually 
from  the  south  to  the  north,  and  has  many  neat  houses  and 
grounds,  gardens  and  fences,  th§t  betoken  the  thrift  and 
taste  of  the  proprietors.  The  Sulphur  Springs,  south-west 
one  milCj  are  in  a  low  tract  of  land,  and  have  but  limited 
accommodations. 

Gideon  Granger,  a  lawyer  and  politician  of  distinction,  and 
Post-master  General  of  the  United  States,  from  1801  to  1814, 
was  a  native  of  this  town,  and  a  must  active  persbn  in  form- 
ing the  fund,  now  estimated  at  over  two  millions  of  dollars, 
that  the  interest  of  is  distributed  in  the  Various  towns  for  the 
support  of  the  district  schools,  in  which  are  taught  nineteen 
twentieths  of  the  entire  riumber  of  children-^and  here  no  one 
is  exempt.  An  equal  amount  to  that  received  from  the  State 
bounty,  must  "^Iso  be  raised  in  each  town  by  a  tax  ;  and  this 
is  the  simple  and  eflicient  school  system  of  this  State,  that 
enables  the  humblest  to  acquire  the  elements  of  reading,  writ- 
ing, arithmetic,  &.c.  &c. 

Oliver  Phelps  was  a  native  of  Windsor,  but  was  raised  in 
this  town,  and  in  Granville,  Mass. ;  and  after  making  a  for- 
tune, during  the  war,  in  the  Commissariat  department,  and 
by  trade,  he  and  Gorham,  in  11(89,  bought  of  the  Stale  «f 
Massachusetts  a  tract  of  land  of  2,200,000  acres,  in  what  was 
the  Genessee  country,  but  biow  is  part  of  several  counties  in 
the  State  of  Now- York ;  and  he  subsequently  purchased  a 
tract  in  Ohio  of  3,300,000  acres,  called  the  Western  Reserve. 
This  gigantic  monopolizer  of  land  finally  settled  in  Canan-' 
daigua,  N.  Y.  where  his  descendants  are  to  this  time.  The 
result  of  his  land  speculations,  in  whole  or  in  part,  fell  into 
the  Holland  Land  Company,  who  have  recently  transferred 
the  same  to  an  association  in  New- York, 

On  attaining  the  apex  of  the  street  above  mentioned,  at 
Sufiield,  the  peak  of  Mount  Tom  is  seen  at  20  miles  north, 
forming  the  next  most  engrossing  object  of  the  advancing 
traveler,  that  now  leaves  behind  the  land  of  steady  habits, 


tVeii  Springfietd—Artenalf  SfC, 


223 


and  entew  upon  the  aovereignty  of  the  Commonwealth  of 
Massachusetts. 

Continuing  on  through  West  Springfield^  26  miles  from  Hart* 
ford  and  17  from  Northampton,  and  its  principal  street,  that 
has  a  shaded  and  umbrageous  aspect  from  the  fine  elms,  in  a 
few  miles  we  cross  WestBeld  River  on  a  bridge,  and  in  a  short 
distance  another  to  the  east,  if  intending  to  visit  Springfield 
and  the  United  States  Arsenal,  on  the  oa  t  side  of  the  river,  as 
we  would  recommend.  The  road  that  turns  to  the  right,  across 
the  low  land,  will  conduct  the  traveler  to  the  substantial 
bridge  over  the  Connecticut,  and  he  will  soon  find  comforta- 
ble quarters  in  one  of  the  hotels  in  Springfield,  that  is  built 
principally  on  one  street,  parallel  to  the  river,  two  miles  long. 
The  houses  are  well  and  uniformly  built  of  brick,  and  the 
aspect  of  the  town  is  lively  and  cheerful)  with  a  business-like 
appearance.  There  are  three  churches,  two  banks,  capital 
$260,000. 

The  Arsenalt  at  this  place,  is  elevated,  and  commands  the 
city  and  environs.  The  buildings,  workshops,  anc^hc  public 
property  of  every  description  that  is  here  accumulated, 
are  of  great  value,  and  are  surrounded  by  n  wall  enclosing 
several  acreS)  and  well  guarded — yot  fires,  &c.  have  taken 
placev 

There  are  300  workmen  employed  in  fabricating  guns  or 
muskets,  and  appurtenances  ;  and  their  small,  snug  abodes 
and  gardens,  indicate  good  order  and  substantial  comfort. 
This  ranks  with  that  at  Harper's  Ferry,  in  Virginia,  as  one 
oftlieohiefarmories  in  the  United  States;  15,000  stand  of  arms 
are  made  annually,  and  the  expenditures  (near  $200,000) 
consequent  must  be  of  vital  importance  to  the  town  and 
neighborhood. 

Other  factories,  &c.  on  Mill  River,  south  of  the  Arsenal, 
and  OR  the  road  that  passes  on  the  bank,  contribute  to  the 
prosperity  of  this  busy,  cheerf  j1  town.  There  are  ths-ee 
ranges  of  shops  that  are  attached  to  the  Arsenal,  contain- 
ing numerous  water-wheels,  trip-hammers,  forges,  coal- 
holes, houses,  stores,  &c. ;  the  whole  presenting  a  stunning, 
deafening  scene  of  noise  and  confusion.  Diatance  27  miles 
from  Hartford,  48  from  Worcester,  17  to  Northampton,  and 
87  to  Boston. 

The  Massachusetts  Rail-road  from  Boston  through  Wor- 
cester, comes  to  Springfield  down  by  the  Chickapee  Valley, 
crosses  the  Connecticut  on  a  viaduct,   and  is  continued 


i 


b 


234 


l^ouih  Hadlet^. 


on  th€  West,  along  by  thie  Westfield  River,  by  an  Isasjr  gride 
that  attains  the  summit  of  the  Green  Mountain  range  ai 
fiecket,  and  branches  to  Weststocic  bridge  and  Hudson. 
This  is  a  road  that  ha»  cost  millions,  and  iu  destined  to 
unfold  great  results  to  the  State  at  large,  and  especially 
to  Boston. 

The  Chickapee  is  a  rapid  stream,  and  comes  from  a  small 
lake  in  Gerry^  forming  Ware  River,  ahd  also  from  the  Swift 
and  Quaboag  that  unite  a  few  miles  to  the  northeast,  and 
enter  tho  Connecticut  four  miles  above  Springfield.  The 
river  is  crossed  on  a  bridge  350  feet  long-,  on  seven  stone 
piers.  The  village  of  Chickapee  is  a  mile  north,  and  is  on  an 
interval. 

South  ffaJley  Falls,  and  the  village  and  canal/  are  six  mileij 
above  Chickapee  River.  The  falls  or  rapids  extend  for  two 
miles,  and  the  entire  fall  from  the  upper  dani«  (of  1,100  feet 
long,)  is  52  fept.  The  canal,  of  2^  miles,  is  cut  fro^n  16  to  30 
feet  through  a  slate  rock,  in  part,  and  is  a  work  of  great  ex* 
pcnse,  th^  was  aided  by  a  lottery  to  its  completion,  after 
having  been  the  source  of  warm  litigation  in  its  construction 
and  consequences.  The  lower  fall,  or  pitch,  is  32  feel ;  there 
arc  six  locks  in  alL  The  inclined  plane  and  complol  machi- 
nery that  was  tbrmerly  here  used,  has  been  long  since  dis- 
continued, and  the  locks  substituted ;  tolls  $18,000  a  year. 
The  river,  above  the  fall,  has  a  south  course,  and  below  it 
turns  abruptly  to  the  east,  and  soon  after  to  the  south.  The 
cataract  tumbles  over  a  confused  mass  of  rocks  32  feet  high 
and  1,600  feet  long,  presentini;  fant-^stic  forms  of  beauty, 
force,  and  wildness,  to  one  standing  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below, 
with  a  back  ground  for  the  picture,  formed  of  the  peak  of 
Mount  Tom  in  the  ha2e  of  the  distance^  to  complete  the  gran*' 
deur  of  the  scene. 

Four  miles  above  South  Hadley  the  river  has  forced  a  pas- 
sage  between  the  rocky  harriers  anciently  presented  by 
Mount  Tom  on  the  west,  and  Mount  Holyoke  on  the  east ; 
and  such,  in  fact,  was  the  Indian  tradition,  and  appearances 
seem  to  coincide  therewith. 


Noi 
rioritji 
that  a 


■fj.. 


•  \  >.■  • 


^^.,v#, 


'.!  IS»      ><!• 


:,•■(«.' 


T-H  >■' 


^ 


,      NorihafnpioH. 
Northampton* 


225 


Norlhamp*:m  was  settled  in  1654,  and  such  was  the  supe- 
riority of  this  tract  over  any  in  the  eastern  part  of  this  State, 
that  all  the  intervening  portion  was  neglected,  and  the  hardy 
settlers  preferred  to  settle  amidst  the  then  distant  wilds  of 
this  smiling  region,  attracted  by  (he  fertile  flats,  and  undaunt- 
ed by  the  hordes  of  savages  ;  and  a  great  part  of  the  State 
between  Boston  and  Connecticut  River  was  unsettled  for  50 
or  60  years  after  Springfield  and  Northampton. 

The  surface  of  the  township  is  delightful,  with  orchards, 
meadows,  and  a  picturesque  grouping  and  harmony  of  ob- 
jects agreeable  to  the  eye.  There  are  ten  important  streets 
radiating  from  a  common  centre  or  focus,  and  there  are  300 
or  400  houses,  and  1,6U0  to  3,000  inhabitants  j  and  of  these, 
from  a  late  census,  120  were  over  60  years  of  age,  and  60 
over  the  age  of  70;  and  as  an  evidence  of  its  general  health, 
the  deaths  are  from  one  in  80  to  90  each  year. 

The  Indian  name  of  the  place,  was  Nonotuck,  and  the 
price  paid  them  by  the  whites  for  the  tract  from  South  Had- 
ley  Falls  to  Hatfield,  and  10  miles  west  of  the  river, ,  or  90 
square  miles,  was  100  fathoms  of  wampum  by  tale,  and  10 
coats!  This  land,  now  composed  as  it  is  of  the  choicest  spot 
in  New  England,  is  cheaply  valued  at  half  a  million  of  dol- 
lars ;  in  15  years  from  the  purchase  it  was  sold  or  valued,  in 
lots,  at  j£5  sterling  the  acre ! 

The  town  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  plain,  and  one  mile 
from  the  river^  and  is  deeply  embowered  beneath  the  shade 
of  venerable  elms  and  other  shade-trees.  Some  dwelling- 
houses,  recently  erected,  are  in  a  chaste  and  beautiful  style 
of  architecture.  The  majority  of  the  others  are  neat  but  not 
exponsire.  The  principal  hotel  is  agreeably  placed  on  a  ter- 
race overlooking  the  town  and  surrounding  country,  a  little 
aside  from  the  centre  of  the  town — it  is  spacious  and  well 
kept ;  others  are  in  the  lower  streets. 

it  is  more  an  agricultural  than  a  manufacturing  pfaee^  but 
for  five  years  past  it  has  entered  with  spirit  and  success  into 
the  silk  business,  the  planting  of  mulberry  trees,  and  ra>i8ing 
and  tending  the  silk  worm,  &c.  by  a  company  with  ample 
capital,  and  hitherto  with  distinguished  success.  Printing- 
presses,  paper  mills,  bookstores,  are  in  full  employment,  in 
the  midst  of  intelligent  and  well  educated  communities. 

If  the  character  of  a  people  is  influenced  by  the  grandeur 


1 


I 


^'I^M 


Mount  Holyoke, 


of  the  hills  and  mountains,  And  the  rich  scenery  amid  which 
they  are  born,  and  dwell,  and  nurtured,  the  highly- favored 
inhabitants  of  this  tovrn  must  be  ranked  as  the  especial  fa- 
vorites of  Providence. 

Eminent  men  have  abounded  or  resided  in  this  town — the 
Rev.  Solomon  Stoddard,  and  his  son,  the  Hon.  John  Stod- 
dard ;  and  the  two  celebrated  divines,  Rev.  Jonathan  Ed- 
^vards,  the  great  theologian,  and  his  son>  both  of  them  Pre- 
sidents of  colleges-^the  former  of  Princeton,  and  the  latter 
of  Union  College,  Schenectady  ;  Caleb  Strong,  Governor  of 
the  State,  and  Judge  SHrong. 

1  In  Southampton,  eight  miles,  is  a  tunnel  penetrating  a  con- 
siderable distance  into  a  hill,  and  leading  to  a  lead  mine  that 
may  be  worth  visiting  by  the  mineralogist  or  geologist  to 
acquire  specimens  of  the  ore. 

Round  Hill  is  a  beautifully  wooded  spot  with  a  large  airy 
mansion^  and  has  of  late  been  occupied  as  a  school  for  boys 
of  a  superior  grade.  It  is  a  short  distance  west  of  the  com- 
pact part  of  the  settlement,  and  like  the  hotel  in  the  vicinity, 
has  a  capital  panoramic  view  of  the  mountains,  plains,  riven, 
and  all  the  villages  and  distant  church  steeples,  Amherst  Gol> 
lege,  &c. 

People  come  far  and  near  on  purpose  to  make  the  fashions- 
able  exploration  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Holyoke  on  the  east 
or  opposite  side  of  the  river  to  Northampton.  Its  summit  is 
about  900  feet  above  the  river ;  and  to  visit  it  pursue  the  road 
to  the  ferry  that  crosses  to  its  base,  where  the  active  pedes- 
trian can  easily  wend  his  way  up  a  rather  steep  ascent  by 
means  of  the  stone  steps  and  platforms  that  soon  enable  one 
to  surmount  all  difficulties  and  attain  the  summit  of  this  re- 
nowned elevation. 

It  is  by  no  means  for  its  Uncommon  or  superior  elevation 
to  others  that  this  is  so  much  visited,  but  it  is  that  it  rises  up 
in  the  midst  of  a  level  and  richly  cultivated  country,  like  an 
Egyptian  pyramid  in  an  immense  garden,  with  a  river  likethe 
Nile  or  the  Ohio  serpentining  through  the  lowlands  and  ap- 
proaching twice  to  the  very  base  of  the  mountain,  and  again 
receding  and  vanishing  beyond  the  gorge  to  the  souiii,  that 
gives  this  mountain  retreat  its  popularity  and  fame. 

The  Mountain  House  at  Catskill  i»  three  times  as  elevated 
as  this,  but  is  remote  from  the  river  and  wants  the  same  cul- 
tivated foreground  and  rich  meadow  that  is  here  seen,  and 
Ihe  highlands  and  points  at  Fishkill  and  New  Windsor  are  in 


Mountain  Setntrf. 


>'A  A'l 


m 


rl 


like  manner  deficient,  nnd  are  not  bo  readily  accesiible  aa 
this  position.  The  beholder  here  ia  fully  aware  of  the  tow- 
ering height  and  of  the  deep  plunging  view  and  sweep  of  tho 
horizon  that  greets  his  ravished  sight ;  the  formation  and 
gradual  rise  of  the  ground  as  it  rises  from  th«  western  bank 
of  the  Connecticut  towards  the  distant  elevations  in  the  rear, 
give  one  the  facility  of  looking  deep  down  as  upon  the  oblong, 
open,  expanded  pages  of  a  volume  beneath  the  eye,  and 
tracing  the  minute  and  gorgeous  details  of  this  wonderful 
exhibition.  The  pencil  of  Cole,  the  landscape-painter,  has 
<eized  upon  the  most  impressive  part  beneath  and  beyond  the 
spectator,  that  of  the  curves  and  grr'^cful  bend,  and  the  rich 
and  diversified  parterres  of  the  farms  that  on  these  meadows, 
subject  to  regular  or  sudden  inundations,  are  destitute 
of  fences  like  the  Hand  of  Egypt,  but  have  their  trees  and 
land-marks  both  to  ornament  and  distinguish  the  various 
domains. 

Turning  towards  Northampton,  the  peak  of  Saddle*back 
Mountain  is  seen  in  the  remote  back-ground  to  the  right,  and 
ii  near  the  north-west  corner  of  Massachusetts  and  the  lines 
of  Vermont  and  New- York.  The  Haystack  and  Bare  Moun- 
tains arc  more  to  the  north.  The  eye  catching  sight  of  the 
waters  that  emerge  iirom  the  gorge  between  Mount  Toby  on 
the  east  and  the  Sugar  Loaf  on  the  west,  will  follow  them  in 
their  sinuous  course  towards  Hadley,  near  the  foot  of  Mount 
Holyoke,  where  it  makes  a  graceful  Mississippi-like  curve  to 
the  west  of  four  and  a  half  miles,  and  again  is  seen  to  ap- 
proach the  village  on  its  lower  border  to  the  south ;  and  it  is 
across  this  oxbow,  or  throat  of  the  bend,  that  the  street  of 
Hadley,  one  mile  long,  with  its  shaded  vista  of  trees,  houses, 
and  churches,  is  bounded  at  either  extremity  by  the  cheerful 
belt  of  water. 

Fences  are  not  required  on  this  peninsula,  as  cattle  cannot 
stray  far  from  their  owners.  The  quantity  of  land  here  so 
safely  environed  by  this  disportive  freak  of  the  river  is  equal 
to  2,600  acres  of  the  richest  quality,  and  that  in  the  season 
produces  exuberant  crops  of  maize,  wheat,  and  all  the  cereal 
gramina.  ...  '  *  vt^** 

Following  the  river  in  its  course  after  leaving  Hadley,  it 
approaches  the  base  of  the  mountain  on  which  we  now  stand, 
and  gives  place  to  the  extensive  meadows  of  Northampton, 
equal  to  those  of  Hadley  in  extent.  The  circuit  of  the  Hocka- 
nur,  or  Holyoke  and  Tom  Bend,  is  an  exquisitely  handsome 


liv 


f 


328 


Mountaitu^^Conneeticut  ValUy 


f 


J 


IV' 


curve  of  three  and  a  half  miles,  while  the  neck  or  throat  of 
the  bend  is  only  450  feet  across. 

The  Monadnoc  Mounlaiiij  in  New  Hampshire,  is  seen  at  a 
distance  of  50  miles  to  the  north-east,  towering  in  its  misty 
indistinctness  and  grandeur  far  abovo  all  other  objects,  in 
comparison,  a  spur  shooting  out  near  the  river  above. 

The  valley  from  Mounts  Tom  and  Holyoke  to  ]\^ount  Toby  is 
20  miles  from  north-east  to  south-west,  and  is  15  miles  wide 
from  the  Green  Mountains  on  the  west  and  north  to  the  Lyme 
or  Holyoke  range  on  the  east. 

The  Sugar  Loaf  is  an  abrupt  cone  that  terminates  the  Deer- 
field  Mountains,  and  between  it  and  Mount  Toby  is  a  vista 
into  regions  of  indefinite  extent. 

Comprehended  in  this  basin  or  valley,  is  North,  South, 
East,  and  West  Hamptons,  Hatfield,  Williamsburg,  and 
Whately  on  the  west;  and  Hadley,  Amherst,  Levcrett,  and 
Sunderland  on  the  east  of  the  river,  besides  parishes  on  the 
summit  of  the  subjacent  hills  and  mountains. 

The  intervals  in  the  form  of  terraced  gardens,  lowest  near 
the  river  and  rising  as  they  recede  by  regular  gradations,  aro 
distributed  into  lots  and  squares,  with  imaginary  lines  of  de- 
marcation formed  by  difference  in  the  vegetation  and  color 
of  the  crops ;  a  brook  or  a  mill  stream  here  and  there  winds 
about  the  plain.  An  island  of  20  acres,  completely  perfect 
in  form  and  vegetation,  is  directly  under  the  eye  in  the  chan- 
nel  of  the  river.  The  waving  outline  of  the  crests  of  the  hills 
and  mountains  composing  the  frame-work  or  border  of  the 
picture,  and  the  acuminations  or  peaks  scattered  within  the 
bounds  of  the  horizon  in  the  remotest  distance  north  and 
south,  in  the  extreme  diameter  of  90  or  100  miles,  contrasted 
with  the  impressive  grandeur  of  the  adjacent  elevated  ranges 
that  trend  to  the  west  and  east,  and  embosom  vales  of  rival 
beauty  lower  down  the  river  at  Middletown,  form,  as  a  whole, 
one  of  those  splendid  exhibitions  or  panoramas  that  has  few 
parallels  in  this  country. 

The  Phelp^s  Farm,  two  miles  north  of  this  town  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  river,  has  600  acres,  150  being  enriched  by 
annual  overflow  and  deposition  of  slirne  and  manure.  The 
rest  is  a  rich  plain  and  part  of  the  sides  and  summit  of  the 
beautiful  Mount  Warner. 

In  the  habits  and  character  of  the  people,  and  in  the  plea- 
sures and  enjoyments  of  refined  and  intelligent  society,  and  in 
the  equal  distribution  of  landed  property,  protected  by  the 


■■•  < 


HaMey  Township — Sugar  Lodf-^Amherst  College,    229 

mfe-guardi  of  civilized  life,  we  do  not  imagine  there  is  a 
spot  on  earth  of  equal  size  that  surpassei  the  valley  of  the 
Connecticut. 

In  returning'  from  Mount  Holyoke  to  Northampton,  the 
road  may  be  varied  by  continuing  on  the  east  bank  through 
Hadiey,  and  crossing  the  bridge  at  Hatfield.  This  is  opposite 
to  the  north  end  of  Hadicy,and  one  and  a  half  miles  to  the 
west,  and  is  built  on  two  streets  of  a  mile  long,  that  cross  at 
right  angles,  north  and  aouth,  east  and  west.  The  7,000  acrea 
comprised  in  the  township  are  in  part  interval,  of  the  first 
quality,  and  part  valuable  upland,  and  the  rest  a  pine  plain. 
The  river  formerly  ran  where  houses  now  are,  and  half  a  mile 
west  at  the  foot  of  Mill  River  Hill.  This  broad  lowland  has 
extended  over  and  increased  towards  Hadley,  and  considera- 
ble tracts  have  been  abstracted,  in  a  hundred  years,  from  the 
east  and  added  to  tho  west  shore,  as  at  Wethersfield  and 
Glastenbury  farther  down  the  river.  Agricultural  wealth  is 
here  evinced  by  the  size  of  the  barns  and  the  comfortfible 
aspect  of  the  dwellings. 

Whateley  is  north  of  the  last  town,  anci  has  the  same  ar- 
rangement of  interval,  plain,  and  hills.  The  latter  are  cov- 
ered with  farms.  In  traveling  over  the  dull  plain,  the  mono- 
tony is  reheved  by  the  objects  in  advance,  the  Sugar  Loaf 
and  a  part  of  Deertield  Mountain,  separated  by  a  depression. 
The  former  is  a  sharp  irregular  conCf  and  has  on  the  south  a 
bold  precipice  with  the  usual  debris  of  the  trap  or  green-stone 
in  fragments  reaching  from  the  base  half  way  to  the  cummit. 
The  vistas  before  alluded  to  are  here  seen  with  still  more 
impressive  effect. 

Amherst  is  five  miles  in  a  north-east  direction  from  Hadley, 
and  is  conspicuous  for  its  elevated,  healthy,  commanding 
situation,  and  for  its  flourishing  college  under  the  popular  ana 
able  direction  of  President  Humphries,  also  a  professor  of 
divinity  and  mental  and  moral  philosophy;  and  six  other 
professors ;  and  one  of  French  and  Spanish,  one  of  mathe- 
matics, and  a  tutor  for  the  Latin  and  Greek  languages.  The 
edifice  is  very  extensive,  with  a  portico  and  colonnade  of  six 
pillars  facing  to  the  south,  and  is  seen  and  admired  for  miles 
around.  There  are  280  students,  and  the  course  of  studies 
similar  to  Yale  College  before  described  at  New  Haven.  Vaca- 
tions are,  six  weeks  from  fourth  Wednesday  in  August,  two 
weeks  in  January,  and  four  weeks  from  first  Wednesday 
in  May ;  and  the  annual  commencement  on  the  fourth  Wed- 

20 


lu 


i 


i# 


'!« 


\M-n 


S' 


2SI        Indian  BattleM— Bloody  Brook— DeerJUld  River, 

ntsday  in  August.  57  seniors,  48  juniors, 47  sophomores,  37 
freshmen,  3  resident  graduates;  total,  192. 

Three  miles  distant  is  a  large  private  establishment  for 
educating  boys,  known  as  the  Amherst  Academy. 

We  can  proceed  on  north  from  this  to  Sunderlantl  and  at 
the  base  of  Mount  Toby,  and  there  cross  to  Oeerfield  by  the 
road  on  the  cast  side,  or  when  at  Whateiey  continue  on  up 
the  west  side  of  the  river  as  the  road  and  other  circumstances 
may  dictate  at  the  time. 

Eight  miles  above  Hatfield,  at  the  foot  of  the  Sugar  Loaf, 
a  skirmish  between  the  settlers  and  the  Indians  took  place  in 
August,  1675,  the  latter  losing  26  and  the  former  10  men. 
This  was  at  the  breaking  out  of  the  bloody  war  with  the 
Indians  of  New  England,  that,  by  the  cunning  and  sagacity 
of  King  Fhilipflhe  Tecumseh  and  Osceola  of  his  age  and  gene- 
ration, had  confederated  together  to  destroy  the  English  set- 
tlers at  a  blow,  and  very  nearly,  indeed,  effected  their  object. 
Deerfield,  Northfield,  and  H'  Held  were  successively  assault- 
ed by  800  savages,  but  aii  they  had  done  much  mischief 
they  were  driven  off  with  loss;  but  in  May,  1676,  they  again 
pounced  unexpectedly  down  in  the  day  time,  when  a  portion 
of  the  men  were  busy  in  the  fields,  and  burnt  a  few  houses 
and  barns,  and  attempted  to  steal  the  cattle  and  drive  them 
away,  but  a  rally  took  place,  and  25  young  men  from  Hadley, 
hearing  the  attack,  crossed  the  river,  forced  their  way  through 
the  savages,  losing  only  five  and  killing  some  of  the  Indians, 
and  with  the  aid  of  the  people  that  were  in  the  fortified  hou- 
ses repelled  the  attack,  and  the  enemy  retreated.  The  battle 
at  Bloody  Brook  was  an  affair  where  90  young  men,  the 
flower  of  the  country,  were  cut  ofT  by  these  foes  from  being 
taken  unawares  off  their  guard,  whilo  scattered  in  the  woods 
—only  seven  escaping  to  tell  the  tale.  The  Indians,  while 
busy  in  plundering  the  dead,  were  surprised  in  their  turn  by 
a  body  of  soldiers  from  Deerfield,  under  Captain  Moseley, 
who  charged  boldly  and  forced  them  into  a  swamp.  The 
Indians  then  attacked  his  rear,  when  he  wheeled  his  men  and 
drove  them  a  second  time,  and  fought  them  in  this  way  for 
five  hours,  and  drove  them  several  miles,  losing  two  men  and 
killing  96  of  their  number. 

Deerfield  River  rises  in  Vermont,  and  has  a  south-east  and 
then  a  north  and  east  course  to  the  Connecticut,  through  a 
gap  in  the  Deerfield  Mountains.  It  is  violent  and  turbulent, 
and  deeply  imbedded  in  mountains,  but  these  give  due  place 


Detrfield^GreenJield,  ifC. 


Sll 


to  meadows  anii  rich  loW  grounds.  This  town  of  t)eerfield 
oecupies  an  elevation  at  iho  base  of  the  hill,  surrounded  bj 
farms,  smiling  in  the  abundance  of  its  orchards,  meadows, 
and  gardens.  The  aspect  of  the  houses  situated  on  a  street 
running  north  and  south,  irldicates  thrift  to  the  owners,  that  are 
mostly  agriculturists  of  respectability.  This  town  has  sus- 
tained the  most  fiery  ordeal,  having  been  twice  burnt,  and  as 
ofcen  deserted  and  repossessed.  In  1704  the  French  Canadians 
and  Indians  made  an  incursion,  killed  40  and  captured  a  hun- 
dred of  the  citizens.  Those  that  escaped  took  refuge  in  a 
fort,  that  was  resolutely  defended  against  the  enemy.  One 
house  is  yet  preserved  near  the  church  that  has  its  door  per- 
forated with  bullets  and  marks  of  the  tomahawk. 

By  reference  to  the  map  it  will  be  seen  that  the  valleys  that 
contain  Deerfield  River,  and  the  Otter  Creek  of  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  have  a  direction  from  north-weat  to  south-east,  and  lead 
fur  100  miles  exactly  in  the  course  for  an  enemy  to  pursue 
cortiinjs;  in  their  canoes  from  the  north  down  Lake  Champlain, 
and  debarking  at  the  mouth  of  the  creek  as  above.  This  ia 
no  doubt  the  cause  why  Deerficld  was  selected  for  destruction 
«o  repeatodly,  from  the  facility  thus  afforded  to  overwhelm  the 
Unsuspecting  inhabitants;  and  the  early  history  of  this  set- 
tlement was  made  amid  the  blood  and  tears  of  its  victims. 

Continuing  on  three  miles  and  crossing  the  Deerfield  Fliver,of 
200  feet  width,  on  a  toll  bridge  near  the  Deerfield  Mountains, 
we  arrive  at  Greevjidd,  at  a  remarkable  bend  of  the  river  as  it 
comes  here  from  the  north-east.  The  road  on  the  margin  of 
the  same  lowland  as  heretofore  ascends  a  slope  on  the  bor- 
ders of  Green  River  before  it  enters  this  town,  that,  like 
others  on  this  route,  is  built  on  a  single  street,  east  and  *ve8t, 
on  thft  bank  of  Deerfield  River.  This  town  ranks  next  to 
Northampton  or  Springfield  as  a  place  of  business,  and  has  an 
air  of  vivacity  and  life  that  is  quite  prepossessing.  A  bridge 
crosses  the  Connecticut  at  the  southeast  of  this  town. 
Much  of  the  land  hereabouts  is  an  extensive  plain  twelve 
miles  by  five,  with  a  continuation  of  the  Deerfield  Mountain 
on  the  east  side.  The  land  of  the  plain  is  indifferent,  but  that 
of  the  border  along  Green  River  is  first  rate. 

Beniardston  lies  on  the  same  plain  as  the  last  mentioned, 
and  the  adjoining  township  of  Gili  is  a  series  of  slopes  as- 
cending by  easy  gradations  to  a  crest  or  roof  towards  the 
*'est,  and  the  whole  forms  a  charming  tract. 

Fdls  occur  in  the  river  four  miles  east  of  Greenfield  ;  and 


f 


I 


1  i 


in  BaUle  with  the  Indians— Norihfield. 

here  was  the  scene  of  another  battle  with  the  Indians,  who 
were  formerly  seated  along  here  in  large  bodies  in  hopes  to 
live  unmolested.  But  on  the  17th  May,  1676,  a  company  of 
160  whites  marched  secretly  and  fell  on  the  copper-colored 
race,  alter  a  debauch,  when  they  were  gorged,  and  stupid, 
and  sunk  in  sleep,  and  attacked  their  wigwams,  forced  them 
to  take  to  the  river,  and  in  their  confusion  of  jumping  into 
their  canoes,  without  paddles,  and  in  the  profound  darkness  of 
the  night,  many  were  carried  over  the  falls  and  perished,  and 
others  ran  into  the  river  and  were  drowned,  and  others  skulk- 
ed into  the  bushes  and  hiding-places,  but  were  ferreted  out 
and  killed.  The  Indians,  who  at  first  supposed  they  were 
attacked  by  their  old  enemies,  the  Mohawks,  soon  found  their 
error,  rallied  and  attacked  the  whites  by  a  much  superior 
force,  and  drove  them  back  into  Hatfield,  killing  37  of  them, 
hut  losing  300  of  their  tribe  in  the  pursuit. 

The  aborigines  after  this  severe  loss  never  appeared  in 
much  force  in  this  neighborhood,  and  appeared  to  be  efTectu- 
ally  depressed  and  disheartened  for  ever  afterwards. 

^orthfield  township  adjoining  the  New  Hampshire  line  on 
the  east  side  of  Connecticut  River,  and  the  town  or  village, 
like  others  before  described,  is  a  mile  long  on  one  street,  on 
an  elevation  ranging  with  the  river,  and  has  a  few  comforta- 
ble houses  with  the  characteristic  neat  and  plain  eastern  ap< 
pearance.  The  Toby  chain  of  highlands  bounds  it  on  the 
east  and  envelopes  the  settlement,  while  the  arrangement  of 
the  landscape  in  front  exhibits  the  river  in  its  meanders  for 
miles  among  teeming  and  rich  meadows  and  low  grounds. 
We  now  enter  the  State  of  New  Hampshire. 

From  Northfield  to  Braltleborough  in  Vermont  is  one  of 
the  loveliest  rides  in  New  England,  along  either  shore  of  the 
river.  Hinsdale^  on  the  east  of  the  Connecticut,  is  pleasant 
and  romantic,  and  is  in  part  a  narrow  and  level  tract  by  the 
river,  and  the  rest  higher  and  irregular,  rising  and  uniting 
with  the  Toby  chain  below.  West  River  Mountain  is  in  the 
north  of  this  township,  and  is  a  bold  river  bluff  800  or  900 
feet  above  the  water;  and  150  feet  from  its  summit  is  an 
excavation  70  feet  deep,  made  formerly  by  the  inhabitants 
hereabouts,  with  the  vague  expectation  of  finding  some  valua- 
ble mineral.  As  the  wonderful  story  is  related,  about  60 
years  since  an  explosion  proceeded  from  this  elevation  like  that 
of  a  cannon  of  heavy  calibre,  causing  much  alarm  and  the 
fear  of  an  earthquake.    On  visiting  the  place  a  hole  six  inch- 


Chesterfield  and  Wettmoretand--' Colonel  Bellotct.      231 


ei  only  in  diameter  was  found  as  the  effect  of  fire  proceedinf^ 
from  the  bowels  of  the  earth  hke  a  blast,  and  ft  pine  tree  near 
was  covered  by  a  black  mineral  substance  ejected  from  ihe 
aperMire,  and  consisting  of  melted  or  calcined  iron  ore  like 
the  scoriae  of  n  forge,  violently  forced  out  in  a  partially  fluid 
state,  and  adhering  to  the  tree  that  remained  in  that  state  some 
years;  the  same  vitrified  substance  was  also  found  on  the 
tocks  and  earth,  that  it  required  a  violent  effort  to  sspa- 
rato.  The  cliffs  are  of  granite.  The  same  kind  of  vitrifac- 
lion  and  yellow  ochre  has  been  due  out  of  the  pit  before  al- 
luded to,  and  perhaps  it  yet  abounds,  and  may  by  digging  be 
procured. 

At  1\irner^s  Falls  is  a  dam,  and  a  canal  of  three  miles  for 
phssing  boats  and  rafts.  Here  are  some  mills.  The  water  is 
compressed  between  two  rocks  at  the  falls,  and  produces  a 
fine  cataract,  and  not  destitute  of  wildness  and  interest. 

Vernon,  the  first  town  in  Vermont  north  of  the  Massachu- 
«elt8  lino,  was  called  Fort  Dummer,  and  here  was  a  block- 
house, or  fbrt,  to  guard  the  lower  country  against  French  Ca- 
nadian and  Indian  hostilities. 

Chesterfield  and  Westmoreland  are  the  next  in  succession  to 
Hinsdale  on  the  left  or  east  side  of  the  Connecticut.  Tho 
first  is  a  grn^/mgand  elevated  region,  and  the  second  is  bless- 
ed with  an  excellent  soil  and  has  no  waste  land.  JVatpole  is 
the  next  in  order,  and  was  first  settled  by  Colonel  BcllowSy  a 
commissary  stationed  here  in  1754,  and  then  bore  his  name 
as  did  a  fort  here.  Aided  by  his  office  he  acquired  wealth  and 
consideration,  and  his  name  to  distinguish  the  celebrated  falls 
on  this  river  will  go  down  to  posterity.  The  town  occupies 
a  level  tract  of  two  intervals.  (A  lofly  hill  750  feet  rises  near, 
and  is  under  grazing  and  cultivation.)  At  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
on  a  plain,  is  thc^  most  important  street,  extending  north  and 
south,  and  is  a  bustling  business  place,  and  the  thoroughfare 
from  Boston  and  through  BelloVvs'  Falls,  over  the  Green 
Mountains  to  Rutland,  Middiebury,  and  Burlington,  and  by 
Lake  Champlain  to  Montreal. 

The  Bellows'  Farm  of  700  acres  is  three  miles  north,  and 
the  mansion  house  is  on  the  site  of  the  old  Fort  Dumnier, 
and  on  a  ridge  that  is  conspicuous  for  miles  around.  This 
valuable  estate  was  in  colonial  times  granted  to  Colonel  Bel- 
lows by  Governor  Wentworth,  for  his  bravery  and  services  as 
a  frontier  settler.  Bellows  being  a  shrewd  man,  and  fearing 
that  the  Governor  would  not  grant  the  exact  tract  asked  for, 

20* 


234 


Sraitleborouffh^  Bellows^  Falls* 


,  1 


told  the  Governor  he  wanted  such  a  tract,  naming  it,  in  the 
north' west  part  of  the  township,  on  the  top  o^'the  falls  moun- 
tain; but  as  he  expected  and  wished,  this  the  Governor  told 
him  could  not  be  conceded,  bnt  (hat  any  other  part  of  the 
township  might  be  selected ;  and  as  he  could  not  do  better,  the 
Colonel  of  course  selected  the  best  tract  of  interval  in  the 
country,  and  had  the  f  rant  fully  confirmed— it  being  probably 
the  one  spot  of  all  others  the  Governor  would  have  retained 
fur  himself. 

Continuing  on  through  the  upper  part  of  Vernon,  and  by 
a  village  with  mills,  &c.  we  pass  a  large  slate  quarry  on 
the  right  hand,  and  approach  Brattleborough  in  Vermont, 
that  occupies  an  elevated  table  land,  and  is  an  important 
stopping-place,  and  has  a  good  hotel  and  stage  house.  North 
of  the  town  are  seen  the  effects  of  water^  that  at  some  period 
has  by  its  abrasion  produced  a  series  of  steps  or  terraces. 
There  is  a  small  creek  tumbling  over  the  rocks  here,  that  gives 
water-power  for  several  factories  and  mills. 

Bellows^  Falls  are  three  miles  north  of  Walpole  and  ten 
from  Brattleborough,  and  are  a  series  of  rifls  and  rapids  near- 
ly one  mile  in  extent,  at  the  base  of  a  mountain  600  feet  high. 
The  river  that,  above  and  also  below  the  falls,  is  650  feet  wide, 
is  here  contracted  within  20  feet,  and  of  course  has  intense 
ve)  '^ity.  A  canal  of  three-fourths  of  a  mile  long,  breadth  at 
bottom  18,  and  at  top  60,  and  depth  30  feet,  has  been  con- 
structed on  the  west  side,  and  a  dam  across  the  river  turns 
the  supply  of  water  into  the  canal ;  there  are  seven  locks, 
including  a  guard  lock,  of  seven  feet  four  inches  each,  or 
forty-four  feet.  By  taking  advantage  of  the  old  bed  of  the 
river,  several  feet  above  the  present  one,  much  deep  rock 
'sutting  and  expenditure  has  been  sHved.  The  entire  cost 
wn«  .;]i50,000. 

Tbtt  road  in  Claremont  and  Cornich  is  close  on  the  banks 
of  the  river,  and  the  hills  on  the  east  exclude  any  view  be- 
yond them  to  the  interior,  but  the  pastures  and  acclivities, 
and  the  elegant  summits,  and  the  abundance  of  cattle  and 
agricultural  wealth  is  witnessed.  This  and  all  the  river  coan- 
try  above  Charlestown  and  Bellows'  Falls  has  been  settled 
since  1763. 

The  first  bridge  ever  built  over  the  Connecticut  was  at  this 
spot,  and  oost  $2,700.  The  present  elegant  and  durable 
structure  belongs  to  Mr.  Geyer,  that  owns  the  mansioi.  near 
by  on  the  slope  of  the  mountain  on  the  east  side,  in  a  very 


Charletioion — JarvU*  Farm, 


235 


romantic,  but  seemingly  insecure  position,  from  the  impend' 
ing  rocifs  of  this  vast  precipice. 

There  are  four  mills  near  the  south  point  of  the  canal,  and 
a  few  neat  houses,  a  church  and  stores  to  the  west  of  the 
canal,  and  between  that  and  the  river. 

Circular  excavations  in  the  hard  granite  rock,  made  at  for- 
mer years,  by  the  attrition  of  the  water  and  pebbles,  are  here 
seen,  as  at  all  similar  spots,  where  abundant  evidence  exists 
of  the  waters  having  been  at  a  higher  level. 

Sexton's  and  William's  Rivers  are  small  streams  rising  in 
the  Green  Mountains  a  iew  miles  north-west,  and  entering 
the  Connecticut,  the  fermet  U^low,  and  the  other  above,  Bel- 
lows' Falls.  Cold  River,  cuming  from  the  Sunapee  Mount 
and  the  Cold  Pond  near  its  ba^e  in  New  Hampshire,  enters 
from  the  east. 

Charlestown,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Connecticut,  is  the 
next  above  the  falls,  in  nine  miles,  and  the  river  is  pleasant 
and  the  road  hard  and  good,  with  the  Toby  range  close  at 
hand  on  the  right ;  and  at  a  spot  where  the  hills  recede  and 
sweep  round  to  the  north-east,  this  delightful  village  is  placed, 
and  nas  two  streets  on  a  parallel  to  the  river,  and  the  othere 
at  right  angles,  with  the  streetii  overshadowed  in  8ummer,and 
presenting  a  mo8t  attractive  aspect  with  its  white  houses  and 
green  blinds,  court-yards,  shrubberies,  and  gardens.  Here 
are  near  2,000  acres  of  rich  bottom-land,  with  orchards 
and  trees  that,  in  June  and  July,  have  a  most  captivating 
appearance. 

Another  of  the  celebrated  farms,  that  of  Jarvis',  may  be 
seen  at  the  bend,  termed  the  ox-how,  in  Wethersfield,  on  the 
west  side  of  the  river.  The  extensive  brick  mansion  and  out- 
buildings, and  the  style  of  the  fences,  &.c.  indicate  the  good 
management  and  wealth  of  the  possessors. 

'ihe  BUick  River,  9i%m9.\\  Htream  corning  from  the  Hawk 
Mountain  due  west,  and  from  ponds  in  the  recesses  of  the 
Green  Mountains,  passes  through  the  adjoining  town  on  the 
south.  The  Sugar  River^  that  has  a  long  chain  of  bottom- 
land, coming  from  the  Sunapee  Lake,  of  10  miles  long,  on 
the  New  Hampshire  range  of  mountains,  also  tails  into  the 
Connecticut  above  the  bend  and  farm  above  mentioned,  and 
nearly  opposite  the  Ascufney  Mountain  in  Vermont,  below 
Windsor.  This  mountain  is  2,000  feet  high,  and  is  Mie  barome- 
ter  of  the  surroundmg  country,  and  one  of  the  giants  of  the 
valley.  The  Indian  name  means  three  peaks.  A  road  leads  up 


Si 


V  V 


236 


Windsor —  Waierquechee. 


to  near  the  summit,  and  the  view  there  beheld  is  quite  worthy 
the  trouble  of  the  ascent. 

Windsor  ranks  as  the  second  town  in  Verfnonf*  It  has  the 
county  build'nps  and  also  the  Slate  Prison,  the  latter  being  of 
the  gray  fir?  le  of  the  country,  and  is  situated  on  the  upper 
plain,  or  hi'  ,  that  overlooks  the  town,  tiiat  is  situated  partly 
on  the  lowland,  or  the  bottom  near  the  river,  and  partly  on 
the  plain  next  the  hill.  It  consists  of  a  street  side  by  side 
with  ihe  river,  two  miles  or  more  long,  and  many  of  the  houses 
have  pretensions  to  style  and  good  taste  more  than  others 
in  this  part  of  New  England.  There  are  numerous  mecha- 
nics and  traders,  good  hotels  and  sta^e  houses.  It  is  distant 
from  Boston  109  mileSf  from  New  Haven  167,  from  Ports* 
mouth  105. 

The  traveler  while  at  Windsor  may  diverge  from  his  route 
up  the  Connecticut,  and  take  the  route  tip  the  White  River 
through  the  gorge  called  the  Gulf  Road,  towards  Montpelier, 
the  capital  of  Vermont,  and  by  the  Onion  River  to  Lake  Cham- 
plain  at  Burlington,  and  thence  to  Canada.  The  road  and 
the  conveyances  are  safe  and  good,  the  scenery  indescribably 
sublime,  passing  up  one  valley  and  down  the  other  by  very 
gradual  and  easy  planes,  well  engineered,  and  through  villa- 
ges of  a  lovely  and  healthy  aspect. 

LuWs  Brook,  that  is  passed  north  of  Windsor,  has  cut  a 
channel  in  the  earth  of  50  feet  ikep.  in  which  mills  are  erect- 
ed that  are  below  the  level  of  the  banks. 

The  Water qmchee,  a  small  stream  200  feet  wide,  coming 
from  the  lofiy  mountains  a  few  miles  to  the  northwest,  is 
next  crossed,  and  in  a  vquarter  of  a  mile  before  it  reaches  the 
Connecticut  is  a  half  circular  or  horse-shoe  fall  over  a  ridge 
of  rocks  of  40  feet,  that  at  certain  stages  o(  the  water  exhi- 
bits a  diversified  and  fascinating  appearance.  Fine  farms, 
and  houses  neat  and  snug,  are  seen  as  we  go  through  Hart' 
land  to  the  mouth  of  the  Wiiite  River,  16  miles  above  Windsor. 

The  stage  road  takes  to  the  north  shore  in  the  valley  of  the 
While  River,  if  the  traveler  wishes  to  see  the  remarkable 
gulf  alluded  to,  through  Hartford,  Sharon,  Tunbridj^e,  Ran- 
dolph, Brookfield,  Barre,  at  the  summit  level,  a'.d  thence 
down  the  Onion  River  valley  through  Montpelier,  Middlesex, 
Waterbury,  Bolton,  Richmond,  and  Burlington.  The  magni- 
ficent gorge,  or  ghaut,  as  it  would  be  called  in  India,  between 
the  CameVs  Rump  on  the  south,  and  the  Mansfield  Mount  on 
the  north,  is  one  of  the  mighty  and  impressive  scenes  and 


rsxwm 


Green  Mouniaini  in  Vermont. 


wonders  of  the  Green  Mcuntains,  25  miles  west  of  Montpelier, 
and  the  same  north-east  from  Middlebury.  At  a  distance  it 
has  a  resemblance  to  the  back  of  a  camel.  The  ascent  may  ^ 
be  effected  in  four  hours,  from  the  west  or  on  the  north  slope. 
In  half  the  way  up  is  a  winding  passage  gently  ascending 
round  the  base  of  a  high  mountain  west  of  the  Rump,  and  that 
can  be  attained  without  much  fatigue ;  but  there  the  eleva- 
tion begins  rapidly  to  increase  until  it  rises  to  an  angle  of  GO 
degrees  to  the  top.  Rivulets  of  surpassing  transparency, 
purity,  and  coolness,  wind  down  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
and  are  most  grateful  to  the  weary  traveler.  The  apex  is  a 
bare  rock  of  several  acres,  on  the  east  and  west  skirted  with 
a  thick  growth  of  low  balsam  fir.  The  extreme  top  is  a  near- 
ly level  surface  of  a  few  rods  in  width  from  north  to  souths 
with  a  precipice  on  the  south  of  several  hundred  feet.  From 
the  foot  the  slope  extends  to  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  an 
iqimense  distance  below.  The  descent  on  the  north  to  the 
Onion  River  is  more  gradual.  The  highest  point  is  4,000 
feet  above  Lake  Champlain,  20  miles  to  the  west,  that  with 
the  intervening  hills  and  valleys  is  looked  down  upon. 

Potato  Hill,  in  Lincoln,  16  miles  south,  is  not  much  inferior 
in  height  to  the  Rump,  and  is  divided  from  it  by  the  deep  broad 
chasm  at  the  south,  while  on  the  north,  beyond  the  deeper  gulf 
of  the  Onion  River,  rises  in  its  pomp  and  proud  superiority 
Mansfield  Mountain,  4,400  feet  above  the  lake.  The  moun- 
tains in  New- York,  on  the  west  of  the  lake,  rise  with  infinite 
majesty,  as  do  the  White  Hills  in  New  Hampshire,  to  a  still 
greater  elevation  and  glory.  They  are  seen  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage from  this  central  range,  intermediate  between  those 
in  New-York  and  New  Hampshire. 

The  grandeur  of  the  scene  is  heightened  to  perfection  if 
the  wanderer  can  see  the  clouds  sweep  across  the  summits 
of  some  of  the  neighboring  hills  or  mountains,  partly  con- 
cealing the  exquisite  landscape  that  extends  to  the  limits  of 
the  State ;  or  if  he  can,  after  spending  a  night  on  the  summit, 
in  June  or  July,  witness  the  dawn  of  day  and  ^he  sea  of  fog 
2,000  feet  below,  appearing  like  an  ocean  beneath  him,  with 
the  capes,  islands,  and  promontories  formed  by  distant  peaks 
and  ranges  piercing  above  the  vapors. 

An  earth-slide  and  a  torrent  of  water  of  tremendous  vol- 
ume, weignt,  and  impetus,  that  occurred  1827,  29th  June, 
may,  in  its  effects,  be  seen  on  the  side  of  a  mountain  in  Addison 
county,  in  the  township  of  Lincoln,  Vermont,  20  miles  south- 


u  - 


;*" 


. "  ■• ; 

^'i^'i 

i?-M- 

4^1 

..  ,> 

*"t  ^ 

-:i  ^ 

lip  ^ 

:>?:  ■ 

■«i9m<qMP"Pi^ 


**  r 


^M^  Dartmouth  College* 

west  of  Montpelier  and  of  the  Bump,  on  the  lofty  peak  of  the 
Green  Mountains.  Fayston  is  on  the  road  leading  to  it.  If 
was  heard  in  the  forenoon,  and  made  a  jar  and  noise  like  K 
peal  of  thunder,  a  thick  fog  enveloping  the  mountain — at  the 
time  it  was  far  from  the  abode  of  man.  The  hemlock,  the 
spruce,  and  the  other  giant  trees  of  the  forest  were  taken  ofif 
and  snapped  and  ground  to  splinters. 

Plainfield  and  Lebanon^  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  fol- 
low in  course.  At  the  upper  extremity  of  the  plain,  where 
the  river  is  200  feet  wide^  the  falls  or  rapids  are  seen  to  good 
advantage.  The  descent  in  three-fourths  of  a  mile  is  but  30 
feet,  of  which  two-^thirds  is  at  the  last  ledge  where  the  waters 
plunge  into  a  deep  reservoir.  On  mounting  to  the  brow  of 
the  hill  is  seen  another  plain  of  several  miles  to  the  norths  of 
an  irregular  surface^  and  formerly  covered  with  pines. 

Darlmoiilh  College  is  on  the  plain  before  mentioned,  two 
miles  above  Lebanon  Falls,  and  half  a  mile  east  of  the  riven 
There  is  a  bridge  leading  to  Norwich  in  Vermont,  on  the  west 
side,  344  feet  long  The  collnge  was  established  in  1769^ 
through  the  exertions  of  Dr.  Wheelock,  for  educating  mis- 
sionaries, and  for  the  Indians  also,  one  of  whom,  Samson 
Occum,  graduated  here,  was  ordained  and  licensed  to  preachy 
and  was  sent  to  England,  where  the  king  and  nobility  treated 
him  very  graciou^<ly  and  liberally  ;  and  the  Earl  of  Dartmouth 
was  the  principal  benefactor*  Donations  of  land,  of  little 
present  value,  have  been  made  to  it  by  the  State.  There  are 
150  to  200  students,  in  four  clasf^es  as  usual  in  New  England. 
The  commencement  is  on  the  fourth  Wednesday  in  August, 
and  is  B.JSte  day  to  the  literati  of  the  State  and  to  strangers 
that  then  assemble  ;  after  which  the  long  vacation  of  six 
weeks  and  two  days  is  taken  ;  another  occurs  of  five  weeks 
and  five  days  from  the  fourth  Monday  in  February.  The  first 
college  building  was  destroyed  by  fire  ;  two  others  havo  since 
been  erected,  and  the  few  houses  around  the  public  square. 
The  expenses  of  tuition  per  year  is  $33,  exclusive  of  the 
medical  lectures.  The  Piofessors  are,  of  history,  divinity, 
mathematics,  natural  philosophy,  chemistry  and  inedicine. 
Seniors  61.  juniors  56,  sophomores  83Jredhmen  101,  medical 
78,  total  371. 

Lyme,  Orford,  and  Pirrmont  are  t!ie  next  townships  in 
succe.'iision  on  the  east  side  of  the  river,  close  by  which  is  the 
road.  Intervals  and  forests  alternate.  Orford  is  on  a  plain 
find  interval  on  the  west.    The  expansions  of  the  lowlands 


Orford. 


lit 


ftre  K  mile  and  a  half  broad  and  three  miles  long.  Two  hills 
on  the  west  of  the  river,  Coney's  and  Sawyer's^  each  460  feef 
high,  rorming  bold  bluflfa  of  granite  near  the  road,  are  fine 
objects,  as  they  are  situated  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the  am- 
philheatrical  or  bowl-shaped  interval. 

Orford  is  a  village-street  of  two  or  three  miles,  straggling 
along  the  river,  as  in  other  places.  Soap-stone,  or  steatite,  so 
useful  and  indispensable  for  grates,  stoves  j'ambs,  and  furna- 
ces, to  withstand  the  intense  heat  of  the  fires  of  anthracite  coal 
now  so  extensively  used,  is  here  quarried  and  sent  to  New- 
York  and  other  places.  Piermont  and  Haverhill  next  occur, 
the  former  rough  and  unpleasant.  At  Haverhill  the  distant 
glimpses  of  the  J\f]oose  Hillock  and  other  giants  of  the  valley 
that  we  are  appro&clung,  give  a  zest  to  our  progress.  The 
situation  of  the  town  is  elevated,  and  there  are  s;ood  hotels 
in  the  village  on  the  upper  part  of  the  town.  The  Sulphur 
Spring  in  Newbury,  across  the  west  of  the  river,  is  of  somo 
note.  The  great  Ox'tow,  a  tract  of  rich  lowland  of  only  500 
acres,  enveloped  by  t  bend  in  the  river,  is  but  an  imitation  of 
those  in  Massachusetts. 

At  the  mills,  t^our  miles  above  Haverhill,  is  a  small  village ; 
the  ride  thus  far  is  delightful,  a  good  road  and  soil,  handsome 
surface,  and  the  Connecticut  clear  and  sparkling,  and  this 
continues  till  we  irrive  at  the  entrance  ©fthe  Ammanoosuck 
JRiv^r,  a  ranld  and  powerful  stream  that  comes  down  in  a 
north-east  direction  from  the  western  slopes  of  the  highest 
mountains  in  the  Eastern  States,  and  is  50  miles  long;  its 
waters  are  cold  »nd  pure;  its  bed  rocky  or  gravelly;  its 
valley  is  from  one  quarter  to  three  quarters  of  a  mile  wide; 
«ts  borders  at  times  rude  and  solitary,  or  more  open  and 
cheerful,  and  wh«re  it  runs  at  the  base  of  the  hill  on  its  north 
shore,  the  clifl^  and  woods  that  impend  over  the  stream  are 
wild  and  gloomy  ;  this  only  continues  for  a  few  miles,  when 
the  scenery  changes,  and  softens  to  a  chain  of  rich  low 
grounds  and  cultivated  farms.  A  good  tavern  is  found  at  Bath, 

After  crossing  the  Ammanoosuck,  the  road  as  well  as  the 
river  ftsrks  to  the  north-east  and  south  east.  The  former 
craaaing  the  rough  Littleton  mountams,  and  continuing  on, 
pant  the  Fifteen  Mile  Falls,  to  Dalton  and  Lancaster,  40  miles. 
At  the  fails  and  lower  bar  in  Lyman,  10  miles  north  from 
the  mouth  of  Wells  Ulver  and  the  Ammanoosuck,  the  Con- 
necticut takes  its  long  southern  course  to  the  ocean  at  Long 
Island  Sound,  900  miles  from  ita  origis  in  Lake  Connecticut 


4 


>  I 


S40 


Uaverhillr— Lancaster. 


4 


above,  latitude  45°.  The  upper  bar  is  at  the  north-cast  comer 
of  the  township  of  Daltou,  above  the  long  rapids  or  Fifteen 
Mile  Falls. 

The  road,that  (as  above)  forks  to  the  south-east,  goes  through 
Franconia,  (see  index,  and  old  man  of  the  mountains,)  and 
to  the  iron-works — but  the  road  to  the  Notch  of  the  White 
Mountains  strikes  off  directly  east,  at  the  forks  first  mention- 
ed, in  Littleton,  and  goes  through  Bethlehem. 

From  Dalton  to  Lancaster  is  14  miles,  eight  being  rough, 
and  so  covered  with  stones  that  for  three-quarters  of  a  mile  no 
footsteps  of  man  or  animal  is  seen.  At  the  northern  declivity 
of  the  mountains  that  bound  Dalton  on  the  east,  is  a  long  and 
narrow  flat. 

Lancasteff  our  ultima  thule  to  the  north  on  this  road,  is 
built  on  a  plain  the  north  side  of  Israefs  River.  The  street  is 
Haifa  mile  long,  and  of  commendable  width. 

Israel's  River  pervades  the  township  centrally,  has  its  ori- 
gin in  the  recesses  and  glens  of  the  White  Mountains ;  is  30 
miles  long,  and  abounds  with  choice  mill  sites.  Intervals, 
plains,  and  hills  are  the  general  features  of  its  banks. 

The  meteorology  of  this  quarter  is  modified,  influenced,  or 
governed  by  the  proximity  of  the  lofty  mountains  on  the  east, 
the  storms  or  falls  of  rain  or  snow  generally  coming  from 
the  north-west  or  west. 

At  Lancaster  are  three  remarkable  msfoorproloi^ged  vales, 
diverging  from  this  as  the  focus.  The  first  is  in  a  south- 
west direction,  or  down  the  Connecticut  for  30  miles,  where 
for  20  miles  of  the  lower  part  the  mountains  compress  opon 
the  river,  and  form  the  long  rapids  or  Fifreen  Mile  Falls,  and 
above  them  at  Dalton,  eight  miles  south  of  Lancaster,  the  ex- 
pansion begins,  and  soon  becomes  six  miles  wide,  and  is  of 
that  width  for  15  miles  up.  The  second  is  to  the  sooth- 
east,  and  is  20  miles  long  and  12  wide,  and  }ead»  the  eye 
to  the  Little  Moose  Hillock  and  the  Litttetnn  ranges,  and 
terminating  with  the  White  Mountains,  rising  majestically 
and  filling  the  horizon  in  grand  style.  The  thifd  is  to  the 
east,  up  the  valley  of  the  upper  Ammanoosock,  20  miles  long 
and  eight  broad,  also  terminating  on  the  g^nd  sierra  of  the 
White  Mountains.  "        1^=        ,- , 

These  long  mountain-galleries,  all  seen  in  succession,  with 
lofty  walls  or  sloping  sides,  give  to  the  whole  a  frame-work 
and  a  finish  that  is  unrivalled  in  its  nobSe  character  and 
effect. 


f 


i^l 


Bethlehem. 


241 


The  vista  up  the  Ammanoosuck  is  very  line,  being  in  the 
form  of  an  inverted  arch  or  bow,  traced  with  beauty  and  taste, 
up  the  river  to  the  mountains.  The  peaks  of  this  range  are 
two  regular  cones  of  singular  beauty.  The  whole  magnifi- 
cent range  of  the  Moose  Hillock  is  completely  exposed  to 
view  for  20  miles,  its  summits  sculptured,  shaped,  nnd  diver- 
siiied  by  the  masterly  hand  of  nature.  v 

The  next  towns  north,  on  the  west  of  the  river  to  the  Cana- 
da line,  are  Guildhall,  Maidstone,  Brunswick,  Minehead, 
Lemington,  Averill,  Canaan,  and  on  the  east  of  the  river  next 
1o  Lancaster,  is  Northumberland,  Stratford,  Columbia,  Cole- 
brook,  Stewartatown,  and  in  12  miles  is  the  beautiful  lake, 
four  miles  in  extent,  that  forms  the  extreme  source  of  the 
river  that  we  have  been  tracing  upwards,  step  by  step,  from 
its  mouth. 

Bethlehem'is  15  m'ules  west  of  the  White  Mountains,  as  we 
advance  up  by  thd  side  of  the  Ammanoosuck.  The  view  from 
the  hill  in  this  place  is  extensive  and  pleasing ;  on  the  east. 
Mount  JVashington,  and  the  nest  of  peaks  assembled  beneath 
and  around,  £11  up  and  form  the  most  imposing  outline  in 
the  horizon. 

Our  way  leads  us  through  the  Breton  JVoods,  an  extensive 
tract  of  primitive  forest  for  five  miles  to  a  tavern. 

In  a  mile  we  again  arrive  on  the  banks  of  and  cross  '.he 
Ammanoosuck ;  after  passing  through  dense  woodland  bushes, 
and  a  narrow  road,  the  ascent  then  begins  on  an  easy  slope  up 
the  base  for  two  miles,  where  the  Ammanoosuck  is  crossed 
for  the  fast  time ;  in  a  few  rods  we  are  on  the  dividing  ridge, 
and  meet  the  waters  of  the  Saco  taking  a  direction  to  the 
southeast  and  joining  a  small  reservoir  on  the  north;  the 
outlet  soon  crosses  the  path,  and  creeping  by  the  skirts  of  a 
meadow,  enters  the  Notch.  The  nest  of  mountains  to  the 
eastward  here  unfold  their  grandeur  suddenly. 

The  Notch  or  Gulf  that  is  hero  entered  upon,  extends  for 
two  miles,  and  is,  strictly  speaking,  an  immense  sundering  or 
parting  of  the  stupendous  barrier  of  rocks,  caused,  proimbly, 
by  an  earthquake  or  upheaving  and  wrenching  motion,  caused 
by  the  internal  fires  of  the  earth.  For  one  quarter  of  a  mile 
the  crack  or  parting  of  the  cliff's  is  narrow,  not  over  25  feet 
at  first ;  but  from  the  rapid  slope  or  fall  of  the  road,  as  the 
valley  parts  before  us  in  two  miles,  the  first  farm  occuis,  and 
on  casting  back  a  glance  at  the  entrance  of  the  Notch,  the 
closing  in  of  the  vast  walls  on  either  side  is  an  effect  both 

21 


ii>iia>i»  a  iir«riii"iiiirfllih 


S4a 


WkiU  Mountains. 


new  and  impreisive,  ending  in  a  rocky  apex,  acute  and  point- 
ed. The  house  kept  bjr  the  late  Mr.  Crawford  ii  five  miiei 
west  of  the  Notch. 

Proceeding  six  miles,  wo  behold  the  magni(icont  amphi- 
theatrical  oval  sweep  of  the  mountain,  15  miled  long^  and 
three  wide,  where  the  population  of  a  world,  almost,  might 
be  congregated  and  arranged,  and  command  a  full  view  of 
the  vast  arena  beneath. 

The  most  impressive  and  striking  portion  of  this  grand 
T^iermopijlcR  of  America  extends  for  five  miles  in  a  labyrinth- 
ine deGle,  constantly  opening  and  closing,  with  magical 
effects  and  rapid  transformations,  as  we  wend  between  these 
huge  granite  walls  and  double  barriers  of  mountains  of  half 
to  three  quarters  of  a  mile  in  height,  with  its  pinnacles  and 
CAstellated  turrets  soaring  proudly  above  the  lofty  sierra,  and 
diminishing  a  casual  passenger  to  a  minute  size,  like  a  fly  on 
a  side-wall  in  comparison,  compelling  man  to  shrink  into  in- 
significance before  the  overwhelmingpowerofnature^s  works. 

The  Saco,  as  it  roars  and  tumbles  along  its  rocky  bed,  bare- 
ly yields  passage-way  for  carriages  and  vehicles  without  en- 
croaching on  the  mountain,  and  claims  the  narrow  valley  as 
its  sole  domain,  and  has  already  become  a  mill  stream. 

Soon  as  the  traveler  scans  the  prospect  and  panorama  that 
bursts  upon  him  on  entering  and  passing  slowly  up  or  down 
the  glen,  he  is  struck  with  amazement  at  beholding,  among 
other  wonders,  the  effects  yet  so  startling  in  its  mass  of  ruins 
of  the  looser  parts  of  the  mountains,  brought  down  by  the 
great  slides  or  masses  of  earth  and  stones,  in  the  night  of 
August  2dth,  18*26. 

The  most  distant  ages  will  have  before  them  the  deep 
furrows  and  scars  then  made  by  the  oceans  of  water  that  for 
a  few  hours  fell  on  thesie  devoted  mountains,  and  that  now 
compose  such  an  interesting  and  evident  feature  in  their  ap* 
pearance. 

These  avalanches  de  te.rre  tt  de  pierre  are  in  stripes  from 
the  summit  to  the  base,  increasing  in  width  and  depth  as 
they  descend  down  to  the  bare  and  solid  rock;  a  long 
drought  had  preceded  this  catastrophe,  the  earth  was  ex- 
ceedingly dry,  and  the  rain  being  also  accompanied  by  a  very 
high  wind,  that  twisted,  and  thrashed,  and  acted  upon  the 
trees  with  irresistible  and  |over«like  mechanical  force  in 
loosening  the  roots  and  earth  around  them,  no  doubt  caused 
this  event  and  the  loss  of  lif^  that  ensued. 


I 


# 


White  Mouniaim. 


UM 


The  Tictims  to  this  calamity  have  their  most  endurin|^ 
monuments  and  memorinla  engraved  on  the  face  of  tho 
mountainii,  that  allured   them  within  its  graKp  but  to  destroy. 

One  of  the  ilides  measures  three  miles  long  and  one  quar- 
ter wide.  It  destroyed  a  bridge  and  filled  a  river,  and  yet 
presents  a  scene  of  ruin  unparalleled.  The  declivities  in  the 
Notch  have  furrows,  where  acres  of  the  surface,  trees  and 
earth,  were  carried  down.  No  similar  event  had  ever  been 
noticed  of  that  magnitude  in  this  country  before,  although, 
upon  examination  since  made,  such  places  and  efTccts  in  re* 
mote  ages  past,  no  doubt,  have  transpired. 

Two  water-falls  of  indescribable  beauty  are  seen  on  the 
toulh  or  right  hand,  within  a  half  orthree  quarters  of  a  <)ile 
tfter  entering  the  Notch  ;  the  first  is  seen  to  leap  forth  800 
feet  above  your  head,  and  at  tAvo  miles  distance,  and  over  a 
rock  facing  the  sun,  and  sparkling,  and  foaming  in  it»  beams. 
The  second  comes  from  a  height  of  250  feet,  over  three  steps 
or  precipices,  and  has  worn  a  smooth  square  channel  in  the 
solid  rock,  like  a  race-way  or  trough  of  a  mill,  and  at  the 
bottom  is  received  into  an  excavation  or  bowl  in  the  solid 
rouk — here  also  the  magical  cfTecl  of  inoving  water  is  exhi- 
bited in  itM  most  fascinating  forms. 

The  gate  to  the  palace  of  nature  is  passed  and  left  behind  ; 
the  curtain  is  drawn  aside,  and  we  are  surrounded  by  the 
majesty  of  the  Creator's  workM,  and  fts  we  proceed  in  our  ex« 
aminHtionof  the  details,  the  effect  becotncs  more  overpower- 
ing; the  imagination,  excited  to  a  phrcnzy  of  enjoyment,  gives 
loose  to  the  fascinations  and  glories  of  the  world  around.  We 
feel  that  we  are  in  the  presence  of  a  superior  being. 

Advancing  slowly  through  this  enchanted  and  solemn  val- 
ley, wide  and  yawning  chasms,  and  narrow  and  irregular 
paths  of  great  length,  attest  the  poiPier  and  infltience  of  the 
long'continued  winter's  cold,  and  the  torrents  of  the  dfssnlv'' 
ing  snows  and  ice  in  spring,  in  wearing  down  the  face  of  the 
mountain,  with  a  retiistless  and  gigantic  force  rending  asund- 
er rocks  and  hurrying  them  to  valleys  beneath.  'I'he  vast 
clifTs,  hoary  with  age  and  the  tnoss  of  centuries,  preside  with 
frowning  dignity  over  ihe  desolate  and  deserted,  yet  most 
impressive  scene. 

From  the  Notch  the  descent  to  the  east  is  t^uite  steep,  hot 
to  say  even  dangerous,  and  for  16  miles  the  S^cois  a  brawf- 
ing,  tumbling  cascade,  and  very  rapid,  having  seven  falls,' 
two  of  40  feet  high-^its  whsle  course  may  be  110  milet, 


Hi' 


'  ai"4 .  f      J? 


I 


1^ 


Conway — Fryburgh^ Hiram    Boston. 


Conway  \a  about  25  miles  from  the  Notch,  towards  theAouth- 
eattt,  on  the  road  to  the  coast  and  Portland  or  Portsmouth,  and 
occupies  the  first  low  ground  or  bottom  that  occurs  on  the 
Saco  tit  for  agricultural  purposes  on  a  bend  of  the  river. 

Fryburgh  lies  in  a  remarkable  bend  of  the  Saco,  that  en- 
compasses the  township  on  the  north  and  east  for  20  miles; 
the  town  is  about  six  miles  north-east  of  Conway,  and  is  on 
&  sandy  level. 

Hiram  is  20  miles  from  Conway  to  the  south-east,  on  the 
side  of  the  Saco,  and  is  formed  of  swells  ;  on  a  hill  is  a  tine 
view  of  the  White  Mountains,  42  miles ;  here  the  oaks 
begin  to  appear  once  more  since  leaving  Bath  on  the  Con- 
necticut. 

From  Fryburc;h  to  Slandish,  on  the  Saco,  to  the  south-east 
of  the  Sebago  Pond,  is  marsh,  swells  or  hills,  easy  to  culti- 
vate, or  pine  plains  of  stiff  loam,  cold,  but  capable  of  im- 
provement. 

Between  Hiram  and  Standishare  the  cataracts  of  the  Saco, 
hero  a  large  stream,  rushing^  over  a  rocky  ledge  40  feet  high, 
tumultuous  and  wild. 

Standish  to  Gorham,  nine  miles;  Falmouth^  at  the  mouth 
df  the  Saco  on  the  north,  seven;  thence  across  the  riverto 
Portland,  three  miles.  Gorham  is  a  large  township  of  farms, 
its  surface  formed  into  hills  and  dales,  with  a  good  soil. 

The  Sebago  Lake  is  about  three  miles  north  of  Standish, 
and  is  13  miles  long  and  9  broad ;  its  outlet  forms  the  Pre- 
sumpscot  River,  that  aft^r  a  short  run  of  12  n.  es  to  the 
south-east,  empties  into  Casco  Bay,  at  its  south-west  side, 
near  Portland ;  there  is  also  a  short  canal  leading  direct  to 
the  latter  place.  The  Sebago  waters  abound  in  fish,  such  as 
trout. 

Portland  is  123  miles  north-east  from  Boston,  and  61  from 
Portsmouth,  &c. 


\ '  > 


',    it'.'  '  •  ,  "^1  •■ 


1        I!  *       J 

Boston «'       >^i 


Boston^  the  commercial  emporium  of  the  New  England 
States,  and  the  third  in  population  and  wealth  m  the  United 
States,  is  centrally  placed  on  the  eastorn  border  of  the  com- 
monwealth at  the  head  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  and  admira- 


■^'iu 


O. 


%N4^ 


■if 


^> 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.8 


1-25      1.4      1.6 

■• 6"     

► 

7] 


."^ 


*: 


^.-^^ 


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> 


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7. 


/ 


/^ 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  V>^SST  MA!M  S  iREET 

WEBSTEf.  A'  '.  14580 

(716)  873-4503 


i 


\ 


^ 


mmm 


mon wealth  at  the  head  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  and  admira* 


' ,  (" 


aa 


^Un  and  ETwirom* 


U^ 


Uy  feittmted  for  trade  and  inland  commerce,  being  on  a  pe* 
ninsula,  with  a  capacioug  hiirbor  and  deep  water,  and  welt 
protected  from  the  aea,  with  a  narrow  entrance  that  in  well 
fortified  by  the  wortcs  on  Castle  and  Goverrior'a  Islands,  forta 
Indej^endence  and  Warren.  There  are  40  itlanda  and  rockjr 
islets  included  between  the  outer  pronga  of  Nahant  on  thd 
north  bnd  Alderton  on  the  south,  the  tw6  points  that  form 
the  bulwarlia  of  the  outer  harbor ;  and  that,  with  Long,  Deer^ 
and  other  islands,  the  Brewstera  and  Point  Shirley,  shield 
the  inner  harbor  from  the  heavy  swell  and  tides  from  the  At* 
Untie,  and  foirm  one  of  the  safest  naval  arid  maritime  dep6ta 
Ota  the  (entire  coast  of  North  America. 

The  city  ia  exhibited  to  the  bet t  advantage,  either  by  coro^- 
il^g  in  froni  siea,  or  on  approachihg  by  one  of  itk  noble  bridg- 
es or  grand  avenues  leading  from  the  main,  and  that  form 
nich  a  Biriking  feature  to  all  strangerl,  more  especially  at 
night,  when  lighted  tip  by  the  numerous  lamps  that  form 
long  starry  vistas  on  the  waters,  and  indicate,  at  varioua  an-' 
gleii  and  coikverging  points,  the  great  metropolis  of  the  east, 
a  Venice  rising  out  of  the  deep ;  the  effect  in  the  day  ia  also 
very  imposing  from  the  clustering  of  domes  and  steeples, 
and  the  masts  of  shipping,  and  the  lofty  outlines  of  the  va- 
rious prominent  ranges  of  buildings  of  a  style  that^  even  at 
a  distance  of  miieR,  prepares  the  eye  to  ei\joy  the  excitement 
and  gratification  of  the  near  approach. 

At  Roxbury  the  traveler  finds  himi.3lf  entering  upon  the 
main  avenue  to  th^  city,  amid  asitncibtions  gluwmg  with  the 
most  intense  historical  interest,  from  the  remains  of  revolu- 
tionary fiuld-works,  and  pursuing  the  route  for  a  mile  over 
the  Neck,  plunges  into  thecpntr«^of  the  city,  that  extends 
by  the  principal  thoroughfares,  WHahington-slreet  and  Hn- 
nover*8ireol,  for  two  miles  to  VVinisinmol  Ferry,  nt  the  ex* 
treme  north-east  part  of  the  city;  such  is  the  entrance  in 
arriving  from  Providence  and  the  souih-east  parts  of  the 
Stale,  or  el:*e  through  South  Boston.  This  old  eniranre  is 
5397  feet  in  length,  and  at  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Neck 
it  is  only  a  few  rods  wide,  and  approaches  uloae  to  I  he  water 
on  the  cast,  but  has  been  filled  in,  and  extended  on  the  west, 
to  form  several  streets  or  blocks  of  ground. 

The  IVes'ern  Aoenue,  lending  from  Sewell's  Point,  in  Brook- 
line,  to  Beactm-atreet  at  the  north  side  of  Boston  Common, 
andpa»t  the  State  House,  is  a  massive  construction  of  stone 
tod  earth,  1|  miles  long,  and  60  to  100  feet  wide  and  13  high, 

21* 


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24lEr 


hdaioH, 


and  encloses  dCO  acres  of  flats,  over  which  tbe  tide  formerTy 
flowed ;  and  a  lateral  or  cross^dam  leadkig  to  Roxbury  di- 
vides this  enclosure,  and  by  flood  and  ebb- gates  forms  a  re- 
ceiving bdsin,  and  gives  great  water- pfower.  The  cost  of 
this  substantial  work  was  $700,000 ;  the  income  only  6  to 
$7,000. 

West  Bditon  Bridge,  connecting  Cambridge  Port  and  Bos- 
ton, has  180  piers,  and  is  6,190  feet  long,  including  abutment 
and  causeway,  and  40  broad,  and  coat  ^76,667— income,  13 
to  $15,000.   This  bridge  will  revert  to  the  State  in  40  years. 

Craffie's,  or  Canal  bridge,  ft-ont  Lechmere  Point  to  Boston, 
is  2,796  feet  long  and  40  wide,  floored  with  earth  ;  a  lateral 
bridge  extends  from  this  to  Prison  F^oint  and  Charlestown, 
and  is  1,930  feet  long  and  35  wide— income,  3  to  ^4,000; 
and  this  also  will  belong  to  the  State  in  40 years. 

Warren  Bridge  leads  to  Charlestown,  and  is  1,390  feet 
long  and  44  wide— income,  16  to  $20,000,  and  belongs  to 
the  State. 

Charles  River  Bridge,  from  Boston  to  Charlestown,  is 
1,603  feet  long  and  42  wide,  and  has  75  piers,  and  cost,  ori-' 
ginally,  $d0>(K)0,  but  the  present  owners,  $300,000— all  the 
flrst  owners  have  vacated.  This  will  belong  to  the  State  in 
1856;  the  income  is  about  10  or  $11,000. 

Bridge  from  Sea-street  to  South  Boston  is  500  feet  long  and 
38  wide,  and  is  free,  and  was  built  by  land-owners  in  the 
neighborhood. 

South  Boston,  or  the  Neck  Bridge,  is  1,550  feet  long  and 
40  wide,  ai»d  cost  $50,000,  and  is  now  free  and  city  property. 
Total,  seven  bridges;  length,  23,669 feet;  cost,  over  Ih  mil- 
lions  of  dollars. 

There  are  also  viaducts  over  the  Charles  lliver  for  the  raiU 
road  to  Lowell,  and  also  one  for  the  rail-road  to  Worcester. 

There  are  ^too  hundred  docks  and  wharves  surrounding  the 
city;  the  most  important  are  India  Wharf,  near  Fort  Hill,  980 
feet  long,  280  feet  wide,  with  a  splendid  range  of  39  stores^ 
four  stories  high,  size  22  by  80  feet,  built  in  1805. 

Central  Wharf,  built  in  1816,  1 ,379  feet  long,  150  feet  wide, 
with  54  stores,  four  stories  high,  and  23  by  ^  feet ;  an  obser- 
vatory or  signal-station  on  the  snmmit,  to  telegraph  the  ship- 
ping and  communicate  with  the  outward  station.  From  this 
elevation  strangers  can  obtain  a  fine  marine  and  city  view 
that  ought  not  to  be  omitted. 

Long  Wharf,  from  the  end  of  State-street,  1,800  feet  lonf, 


*•>» 


t( 


Baaion, 


247 


i200  wide,  76  storei,  with  a  well  of  goud  water  90  feet  deep. 

City  Wharfs  Mercantile,  Lewis,  Hancock's,  Scarlet, 
Union,  the  Marine  Railway,  Battery,  Holmes,  Weed, 
Winnisimmet,  Carney's. 

Commercial  Wharf,  1,100  feet  long,  160  wide;  34  granite 
stores,  25  by  60  feet ;  cost  $500,000,  and  in  grandeur  and 
convenience  are  unrivalled.  The  above  are  north  of  Indian 
Wharf;  on  the  south  is  Foster's,  Liverpool,  Russia,  Bull's, 
Francis',  Wale's,  Lloyd's,  Amory'e,  Davis',  Baxter's,  and 
Cobb's,  near  South  Boston  Bridge. 

The  population  of  Boston  is  about  85,000,  and  if  the 
towns  within  five  or  seven  miles  should  be  included,  the  ag- 
grcgate  would  be  120,000. 

The  Indian  name  of  this  place  was  Shawmut,  and  that  of 
the  first  English  settlers  Trimount,  for  its  three  hills ;  the  size 
of  the  peninsula  was  then  estimated  to  embrace  700  acres ; 
it  is  now  about  1,000,  by  filling  in  the  low  grounds  and  dock- 
ing; the  hills  having  been  reduced  and  graded,  and  adapted 
to  the  wants  of  a  large  city,  yet  leaving  some  elevations  of 
60to  110  feet.  4 

Boston  has  been  settled  209  years,  and  originally  was  dis- 
tinguished by  three  hills,  one  of  which  occupied  the  present 
site  of  the  State  House,  and  soared  up  to  an  acute  point  as 
high  as  the  apex  of  the  lantern  above  the  dome  of  that  build- 
ing, from  which  all  strangers  can  behold  the  panorama  of 
Boston  and  its  environs  at  an  elevation  210  feet  above  the 
harbor,  that  when  once  seen  and  studied,  will  not  soon  be 
forgotten  ;  it  cannot  be  exceeded  by  any  city  in  the  Unite4 
States. 

Many  of  the  islands  in  the  harbor  are  attractive,  and  15 
afford  pasture,  and  are  visited  in  summer  by  parties  of  plea- 
sure. The  rivers  that  empty  into  this  harbor  are  the  Mystic, 
Charles,  Neponset,  Manaticant,  and  around  its  borders  are 
Charlestown,  Chelsea,  Cambridge,  Brookline,  Brighton,  Rox- 
bury,  Dorchester,  and  Quincy  :  and  the  bays,  coves,  and  in- 
lets that  open  into  the  interior,  add  much  to  the  beauty  and 
attraction  of  the  environs. 

There  are  in  Boston  upwards  of  200  streets,  lanes,  &c. 
besides  courts  and  squares ;  28  banks,  with  a  capital  of 
$18,000,000;  27  Insurance  Companies,  with  a  capital  of 
$7,600,000,  and  a  Life  Insurance  Company,  of  $500,000. 
The  bank  charters  in  this  State  all  expire  in  1851 ;  those  of 
the  InsuynyMHi  Companies.  «re  optioBAl  wjtl|  tli9  Lpgisiflture. 


UB 


^Miani 


Ther«  are  more  than  50  pUcal  of  public  worthi^,  beaid^i 
Mission  Chapels,  Halls,  Bethels,  &.c.  There  are  12  larre 
Public  Schools,  including  the  Latin  and  English  High-^ 
Schoolfi,  opened  to,  and  frequented  equally  by,  the  poor  and 
rich,  besides  primary  or  minor,  and  Sabbath-schools.  The 
school  system  of  this  State,  and  especially  of  this  city,  ii 
perfect,  and  20,000  chilli  ten  of  this  city  are  kept  at  school  at 
a  yearly  expense  of  $200,000. 

The  true  American  spirit  and  feellnss  of  a  predominaht 
population  of  native  born  cilizeiis  is  the  characteristic  of 
this  city;  end  it  is  unrivalled  ib  its  literary  institutions 
and  its  richly  ^endowed  hospitals  and  asylums,  that  the 
munificence  of  its  citizens  has  delighted  to  establish.  In 
wealth,  enterprise,  pbblic  spirit,  and  patriotism,  ahd  the 
enlightened  intelligence  Of  the  people,  Boston  has  ev6r  been 
preeminent. 

Of  lis  public  buildings,  FrinbuU  Hall,  or  the  Cradle  of  Li^ 
berty,  in  Dock  Square,  at  the  head  of  State-street,  and  front- 
ing on  Washington-street,  or  Cornhillj  deserves  the  first  and 
most  honorable  mention,  as  where  the  great  men  of  this  cily« 
and  statp  and  nation,  havo  made  its  walls  resound  with 
thrilling  flashe^i  of  eloquence.  It  was  presf>nted  to  Boston  in 
1742^  by  Peter  Faneuil,  R^q  and  after  various  alterations,  is 
now  a  plain  brick  edifice  of  100  feet  by  80,  and  three  stories 
high,  the  lower  part  used  tor  stores;  the  hail  for  public  meet- 
ings  is  76  feet  FqUare,  and  36  feet  high^  and  has  deep  galle- 
ries  on  three  sides,  and  paintings  of  patriots^  warriors,  and 
statesmen,  with  an  armory  above. 

The  Stale  House  is  the  most  conspicuous  edifice,  and  on 
the  highest  ground  in  the  city,  ffonting  Beacon-street,  and 
looking  down  upon  the  beautiful  putdic  square,  mall,  or  com' 
nion,  of  48|  acres,  with  its  noble  elms,  the  growth  of  a  cen- 
tury ;  the  strU'-turc  is  brick,  and  the  style  plain-^length  173 
feet,  breadth  61,  with  a  paved  court  in  front,  and  an  area  on 
the  rear  of  the  first  finnr,  where  is  seen  €hantr>'s  htatue  of 
Washington.  The  dome  of  the  State  Houne  is  53  feet  in 
diameter  and  230  feet  above  tide  hwei,  and  of  course  looks 
down  and  lords  it  over  the  city,  harbor,  anti  the  country  sur- 
rounding it;  aA  the  ascent  is  arduous,  so  is  the  view  most 
magnincent.  The  legislature  of  Massachusetts,  a  numerous 
ody  of  500  or  600,  meet  in  the  halls  of  this  edifice,  thut  also 
omtmses  I h»?  various  official  rooms*  ^' 
-    The  Ciljf  Halty  formerly  used  af<  the  State  House  by  the 


Colon 
street 
and  r( 
ries  h 
Th« 
in  Coi 


^^ 


BottOH. 


249 


Colonial  and  State  governmentR,  is  on  State  and  Waahington- 
streets,  and  occupied  by  the  city  government,  post-office, 
and  reading-room,  is  110  feet  long,  38  wide,  and  three  sto- 
rieg  high. 

The  New  Court  Houses  between  Court  and  School-streets, 
in  Court  Square,  is  a  noble  building  for  the  courts  of  law, 
record  offices,  k,c.  and  ie  of  Quincy  granite,  176  feet  long,  54 
wide,  and  67  hi^h,  with  two  porticos,  each  of  four  fluted 
columns  of  23  feet  in  length,  and  four  feet  five  inches  in 
diameter,  and  25  tons  weight.  There  are  four  court-rooms 
50  feet  by  40;  the  cost  of  the  buildingt  without  the  land,  was 
$150,000. 

The  Massachusetts  Hospital  la  also  of  granite,  and  occupiet 
an  area  of  four  acres  on  Charles  River,  between  Allen  and 
Bridge-streets,  in  the  west  part  of  the  city,  and  is  168  feet 
long  and  54  broad,  and  is  a  monument  of  taste  and  benefi- 
cence ;  the  cost  of  the  land  and  building  was  $144,500;  the 
funds  of  the  institution,  including  the  donations  of  John 
M'Lean.  Esq.  and  Miss  Mary  Belknap,  is  $120,000.  About 
45  sick  on  an  average-^cost  each  $4  62  n  week.  There  are 
two  acting  surgeons  and  three  physicians. 

The  Massachusetts  Medical  College^  connected  with  Har- 
vard, is  a  spacious  edifice  of  brick,  in  Mason-street,  near  the 
Mall,  and  contains  a  medical  library  of  5,000  volumes. 

The  McLean  Jjsylum  for  the  Insane  is  at  Charlestown,  and 
is  a  branch  of  the  Massachusetts  Hospital,  and  occupies  a 
charming  site  of  rising  ground  near  East  Cambridge,  Ij^ 
miles  from  the  City  Hall,  and  has  15  acres  of  land  for  courts 
and  gardens.  The  buildings  (that  cost  $186,000)  are  larger 
and  well  adapted  to  aid  in  the  cure  and  conduce  to  the  com- 
fort of  the  inmates.  The  grounds  are  well  laid  out,  and  the 
walks  gravelled ;  and  there  are  summer-houses,  proves  of 
ornamental  trees,  shrubbery^  and  flowers ;  a  road  lor  riding, 
and  a  pond  with  gold  and  ailver  fish,  and  every  suitable  pro- 
vision made  to  beguile  the  patients  into  a  forgetfulness  of 
thoir  sorrows  and  melancholy  situation.  Such  an  institution 
is  an  honor  to  its  founders  and  to  human  nature. 

The  New  England  Institution  for  the  Education  of  the  Blind 
in  Boston,  is  another  philanthropic  emanation  of  benevolence 
begun  by  the  Hon.  Thomas  H.  Perkins,  who  presented  a  va- 
luable and  splendid  building  in  Pearl-street,  and  the  citizens 
of  Boston,  by  one  zealous  impulse,  consummated  the  gift  by 
raising  the  requisite  funds.   Dr.  S.  G.  Howe  is  the  director 


250 


'Botion, 


E.  Trencher!,  teacher ;  Lowell  Mnion,  profeiior  of  muiic. 
The  expenieto  pay-icholars  ii  $150  a  yeariUere  are  50 
inmates. 

The  Eye  and  Far  In6rmary,  by  Drs.  Jeffries  and  Reynolds, 
is  also  in  good  repute. 

The  Houses  of  Industry ,  of  Correction^  nnd  for  the  Reformo' 
tion  ofJuvenite  Delinquents,  are  all  In  South  Boston,  on  the 
margin  of  the  harbor,  nnd  are  stone  buildings  of '230  feet  by 
43,  and  make  a  conspicuous  appearance  from  Boston.  They 
occupy  60  acres  of  groUnd  on  the  famous  heights  of  Dor- 
chester, where  field  works  were  thro%Vn  up  by  the  American 
forces,  that  caused  a  speedy  evacuation  ot  Boston  by  the 
British  troops. 

The  poor«  old,  and  infirm,  and  those  able  to  work,  are  here 
supported  in  the  firht,  and  the  convicts  under  eight  years  in 
the  second  house  mentioned,  the  latter  on  the  (ilan  of  seclu- 
■iun.  silente,  ilnd  single  cells ;  there  are  here  about  3U0  con< 
fined,  half  of  them  foreigners;  and  of  the  paupers,  (841,) 
550  are  natives.  There  are  about  100  in  the  juvenile  delin- 
quent department.  The  whole  under  overseers,  with  a  super- 
intendent, physician,  and  chaplain  to  each  house 

The  Fanttiil  HMl  Market,  that  was  planned  ond  completed 
under  the  mayoralty  of  Josiah  Quincy,  Esq.  in  1826->>*27,  at  a 
cost  of  $150,000,  excUisive  of  land,  is  536  i'cet  long  and  50 
wide,  and  is  entirely  of  granite,  with  h  portico  at  each  end  of 
four  pillars,  23  feet  high,  and  extends  east  from  Faneuil  Hall; 
the  lower  floor  is  the  market  for  itieat,  fi^h,  arid  vegetables; 
the  second  Story  is  occasionally  occupied  for  large  sales  of 
dry  goods  arid  American  manufactures,  and  for  ware- rooms. 
Over  the  centre  of  the  building,  frurti  a  base  of  74  by  55  feet, 
springs  a  dome  of  fine  jirbpdrtion.  North  Market-street 
65  feet,  and  South  Market-street  102  feet  wide,  are  at  the 
respective  sided  of  this  splendid  edifice,  and  warehouses 
with  uniform  granite  fronts  line  the  street. 

There  are  other  markets  of  smaller  dintensibn  in  various 
parts  of  the  city,  kuch  as  the  Boylston,  corner  of  Washington 
and  Boylstonstreets. 

Hotels,— The  Tremont  House  is  three  storieA  hieh,  and  160 
feet  long,  on  Treniont-street ;  and  the  wing  Ori  BeacoU'Street, 
four  stories,  and  84  feet  long,  34  wide ;  and  the  wing  on  the 
south,  fronting  an  open  square,  is  four  storieU,  and  1 10  by  40 
feet,  and  there  are  180  rooms-'-Hsost  of  the  edifice,  withoutthe 
land,  $6S,000-^the  diuing-hall  is  70  by  31  feet,  and  14  high. 


J  ! 


!   t, 


Bottom. 


ttl 


Th«  eonitruction  i«of  Quincy  gmnite,  with  a  portico  of  four 
fluted  colurfht  25  feet  bi^ii,  endosinff  a  receii  37  feet  by  7. 
This  esta  anhment  occupies  an  airy,  pleasant,  and  commodi- 
ous  situation  near  the  Mail  and  opposite  to  the  Tromont 
Theatre,  and  has  hitherto  been  extremely  well  kept,  and  filled 
with  fashionable  society  and  strangers. 

The  American  House  in  Hanover-street  contains  125 
rooms,  and  is  well  arranged  in  modern  style,  lighted  with 
gss. 

The  Shawmut  House  and  Earls*  CoflTee  House,  also  in 
Hanover- street  J  the  New  England  in  Clinton-stroet,  and 
the  Exchange  CofTee  House,  Congress  Square ;  the  Pearl- 
street  House,  the  La  Fayette,  and  the  Marlboro'  Hotels,  the 
latter  being  a  temperance  house  in  Washington  street;  the 
Franklin  in  North  Marketstreet ;  Commercial  CoflTee  House, 
Broad-street;  City  Tavern,  Brattle- street;  Blackstone  House 
in  "    National  House,  Elm-street  Hotel ; 

Mansion  House,  Milk-street;  Eastern  Stage  House,  Ann- 
street;  one  in  Hownrd*street ;  and  the  Albion  and  the  Shaw- 
rout  ;  the  two  latter  arc  on  the  European  plan. 

The  Maverick  House,  East  Boston ;  the  Mount  Washing- 
ton  House,  South  Boston. 

The  American  Traveler  and  Stage  Register,  published  at  47 
Court-street,  will  be  useful  to  possess,  as  it  notices  the  vari- 
ous rail-roads,  stages,  and  steam  and  canal* boats. 

A  Steam-boat  for  Portsmouth  starts  Mondays,  Wednet- 
days  and  Fridays,  at  seven  in  the  morning,  and  for  Hing- 
ham,  daily  from  Foster's  wharf,  at  nine  A.  M.  and  five  P.  M. 
and  for  Bangor  and  Portland,  from  Lewis'  wharf,  Saturdays 
and  Thursdays,  at  five  P.  M.  and  one  from  Foster's  wharf, 
Mondays  and  Fridays,  at  five  P.  M.  and  one  for  Nahant, 
daily,  at  nine. 

The  slagee  for  the  interior,  depart  from  Nos.  34  to  41 
Hanover-street;  and  from  the  City  Tavern,  Brattle-street, 
and  11  Elm>street;  those  places  being  the  head-quarters  and 
old  established  stage-houses,  where  every  requisite  informa- 
tion can  be  obtained. 

The  Middlesex  Canal  may  be  viewed  by  taking  a  passage 
in  a  canal  boat  on  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays,  at 
eight  A.  M.  or  from  No.  9  Elm-street,  in  a  stage  that  takes 
passengers  to  the  canal  basin.  The  canal  extends  through 
Charlestown  to  Medford,  6  Woburn,  10  Wilmington,  14  to 
Lowell,  at  tjielocki  «nd.  on  the  Merrimack  River;  total,  69 


2S2 


Botton. 


( I 


milei.  It  CMl  $828,000,  h  30  feet  wide  at  top,  20  at  bottom, 
and  four  feet  deep;  the  tummit  level  being  Wi  feet  above 
tide  water,  and  32  feet  above  the  Merrimack.  It  was  in- 
corporated in  1789,  and  finished  in  1808,  and  was  the  first 
made  in  the  United  States,  and  for  several  years  lay  dor- 
mant, but  of  late  has  been  more  used.  The  locks  are  12  feet 
by  80. 

The  Post-Office  is  on  the  first  floor  of  the  west  end  of  the 
City  Hall,  on  Washington-street  and  State-street — 33  mail 
stages  arrive  and  depart  daily.  The  office  is  open  from  seven 
A.  M.  to  eight  P.  M.  and  from  five  to  six  P.  M.  on  Sundays. 
The  income  is  $78,000  to  $90,000  per  year. 

The  public  debt  of  tlie  city  is  $1,147,399 — the  receipts  per 
year,  $1,316,624 — expenditures,  $1,316,290— income  for  rents 
$44,000.  The  city  owns  7,000,000  square  feet  of  land  on  the 
neck  and  basin,  and  also  the  various  public  squares — the  Mall 
or  Common,  and  other  lands  of  great  value,  and  much  ea- 
ceeding  the  city  debt. 

The  Mall  or  Common,  that  is  justly  the  pride  of  the  citizeni, 
has  ever  been  preserved  inviolate  for  the  enjoyment  and 
health  of  the  city,  for  parades  of  the  militia,  and  as  a  prome- 
nade, and  has  a  sheet  of  water  near  a  remarkably  fine  old  eim 
tree,  coeval  with  the  beginning  of  the  last  century.  This 
park  or  common  has  been  recently  enclosed  by  an  iron 
railing;  at  a  cost  of  $35,000 — there  are  48|  acres. 

The  Boston  Jithenmm,  in  Pearl-street,  has  a  library  of 
40,000  volumes,  and  a  rich  cabinet  of  coins,  medals,  relict), 
&.C.  an  extensive  reading-room,  replete  with  all  the  periodi- 
cals and  best  newspapers  of  this  country  and  of  Europe*^- 
open  from  eight  A.  M.  to  nine  P.  M.  to  subscribers,  and  to 
visiters  that  they  introduce. 

Connected  with  the  above  is  a  suite  of  rooms  for  lectures, 
the  Academy  of  Science,  &c.  the  Massachusetts  Medical 
Library,  and  a  large  gallery  for  the  exhibition  of  paintings. 

The  Massachusetts  Historical  Society  have  published  a  series 
-  of  very  interesting  volumes,  and  have  their  library  of  3,000 
volumes  at  the  room  in  Franklin-street.  There  are  several 
valuable  libraries  in  the  city,  the  Boston  Library  Society  of 
10,000  volumes;  and  the  Columbian,  of  5,000;  Law  Library, 
2,000;  Mercantile,  3,000;  Apprentices,  3,000;  Theological, 
2,500;  American  Academy  of  Arts,  &c  2,000.  There  are 
three  valuable  museums. 
yk    A  mpply  ofpwre  water  is  brought  into  the  city  froip  ponds 


V:  -'r 


A  A 


Bo9ton> 


io  Framingham  and  Natick,  that  cover  885  acref,  icon  retonroir 
in  Roxbury,  two  and  three  quarter  miles  distant  from  the  city 
hall,  and  110  feet  above  lUe  marsh  Irvei. 

The  shipping  belonging  to  this  port,  200,000  toni;  the 
foreign  arrivals,  1,S<X);  coaktwiae,  4.000 ;  imparts,  18,000,000; 
exports,  10,000,000 ;  duties  on  imports,  &,()00.(K>0.  tiO.OOO 
hogsheads  of  molanses yoacly  imported,  and  also  60,000  baien 
of  cotton  received,  of  300  to  400  poi/nds  each,  and  4riO,0^tO 
barrels  of  flour,  and  one  and  a  half  million  of  bushels  of 
grain. 

Aline  of  four  new  and  splendid  steam-shipSf  of  1,250  tons 
esch,  and  460  horse  power,  200  feet  long  and  34  wide,  will 
be  established  in  ^840  by  Mr.Cuuard.to  rim  scrni*montlily  from 
Liverpooi  to  Boiton^  vi?.  Halifax,  with  snraS)  r  boats  to  keep  . 
up  a  communication  between  Pictou  and  Q,uet)oc.    The  East 
Boston  Company  haw  provided  berths  or  wharves  gratis, 
near  the  dep6t  of  the  £afltern  Kail-road,  on  ?^oddlefl  Island.  - 
There  are  several  large  glass  manufactories,  brass  a^^d  iron  < 
founderies,  rope«walk8,  and  of  hats,  candles,  paper  hanging,  1 
and  soap. 

The  immensely  valuable  manufactories  at  Lowel  (sec  page 
266)  are  principally  owned  in  Boston. 

In  some  parts  of  the  city,  the  streets  are  narrow,  crooked, 
sad  irregular,  and  thtire  are  many  hou£e»  of  wood  that  have 
been  spared  by  the  numerous  fires,  that  have  desolated  parts 
of  the  town  in  1711.     1760,  20lh  of  March,  when  350  dwell-' 
ings,  shops,  &.c.  were  burnt  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  Comhill, 
State,  and  Congress- streets  to  Fort  Hill — amount  of  damage, 
£100,000  sterlmg  ;  1787,200  buildings,  tevcn  rope  walks- 
loss,  $200,000 ;  1818,  3d  November,  the  Exchange  Coffee 
House,  seven  stories  high,  with  2iO  rooms — cost  half  a  million 
of  dollars;  1824,  April  7tb,  53  large  warehoui^es  in  Doane«»> 
street,  and  7ili  July,  15  costly  dwellings  on  Beacon,  Charles, 
and  Chesnut-streets ;  1825,  20  stores  and  shops,  and  35  law- 
jer'&  offices  on  Court-street;  in  18S3, 71  fires  occurred ;  and  in 
18S9,  in  January,  was  a  large  £re  in  Hanover-street. 

The  fire  department  at  piesent  is  very  efficient,  and  hnis  25 
engines,  20,000  feet  of  hoae,  with  hooks,  ladders,  carriages, 
buckets,  and  an  active  body  of  15  engineers,  and  1,500  firs- 
men,  i  ^ 
The  modern  buildings,  stores,  &:c.  are  all  of  brick  or  gran« 
ite,  and  vastly  improved  as  to  the  style  of  architecture,  mate- 
rials, &C.    Streets  have^  been  widened,  and  old  houses  sup- 

22      ■       ■  .'       ^    >- 


■\ 


>'-i 


264 


Bo$ton. 


planted  by  thousaiids  within  a  few  past  years,  and  things  have 
by  no  means  been  quiescent  or  in  repose,  but  constantly 
going  ahead ;  and  the  present  remarlnible  epoch  in  raiUroad 
construction  is,  no  doubt,  destined  to  give  to  Boston  that  im- 
petus to  its  trade  and  prosperity  that  the  inhabitants  little 
imagine,  and  will  cause  every  toot  of  land  above  and  bepeath 
a  moderate  depth  of  water  to  be  usefully  occupied. 

Besides  the  expensive  public  buildings  that  have  been 
enumerated,  some  of  the  banking  edifices  are  of  very  chaste 
and  elegant  architecture,  such  as  the  SufTolk,  the  Washinj^- 
ton,  and  the  late  United  States  Bank  ;  and  the  same  may  be 
said  of  a  few  of  the  churches,  and  of  hundreds  of  piivsto 
dwellings,  many  of  which  are  spacious  and  princely. 

The  Boston  Academy  of  Music,  and  a  religions  assembly, 
called  the  Franklin*8treet  Church,  now  occupy  the  old  Bo8> 
ton  theatre  on  Federal  and  Franklin-streets,  that  was  erected 
in  1798,  on  the  ruins  of  the  former,  that  had  been  destroyed 
by  fire  the  same  year.  The  present  edifice  is  of  brick,  61 
feet  wide,  152  long  and  40  high,  and  is  now  well  appropriated 
in  the  same  way  as  the  Chatham  Chapel  in  New-York. 

The  Tremont  Theatre  is  of  granite,  fronting  on  Tremont" 
street,  79  feet,  and  136  feet  in  depth,  and  is  neat  and  orna- 
mented, and  receives  a  tolerable  support. 

Churches. — The  Congregational  Church  in  Chauncey  Place, 
out  of  Summer-street,  has  at  this  time  for  its  pastor,  N.  L- 
Frothingham,  the  16th  in  descent  since  the  first  house  of 
worship  was  built  in  1630,  corner  of  State  and  Devonshire- 
streets,  and  John  Cotton,  and  .Tohn  Davenport,  and  Dr. 
Charles  Chauncey,  were  some  of  its  distinguished  ministers. 
A  stated  lecture  has  been  preached  at  this  church  on  Thurs- 
day, since  1633,  by  the  clergy  of  Boston  and  vicinity,  when 
all  intended  marriages  in  this  city  are  given  out  and  ttic 
banns  declared. 

The  Second  Church'on  Hanover-street  is  the  oldest  meet- 
ing-house now  standing  in  the  city. 

The  old  North  Church  was  in  North  Square,  and  was  bnilt 
in  1649;  burnt,  1676;  rebuilt,  1677;  and  was  destroyed  by 
the  enemy  in  1776,  after  it  had  existed  nearly  a  century,  and 
had  for  its  pastors  the  celebrated  Mathers,  Increase  and  Cot- 
ton, Dr.  Samuel  Mather,  and  Dr.  John  Lathrop,  and  others. 

The  old  South  Church  in  Washington,  corner  of  Milk- 
atreets,  is  88  by  61  feet,  and  being  central  and  having  two 
tiers  of  galleries,  is  used  on  public  occasions  where  largu 


Botton. 


!^ 


audiences  ftrd  eipected.  It  was  built  in  1730,  and  in  1770 
Warren  here  delivercii,  in  defiance  of  threats  and  the  pret- 
ence of  foreign  mercenaries,  his  memorable  address  on  the 
anniversary  ofthe  massacre  of  the  6th  March.     The  present 

ftastor,  S.  H.  Stearns,  in  the  I2th  in  descent  since  the  estab- 
ishment  of  the  original  church  at  Charlestown  in  1669. 
Among  the  distinguished  clergy  of  former  days,  here  was 
Fletcher,  Willard,  Pemberton,  Dr.  Joshua  Sewall,  from  1713 
to  1769 — and  the  celebrated  Thomas  Prince,  the  historian 
of  New  England,  who  died  in  1758 — Dr.  Joseph  Eckley, 
Joshua  Huntington,  and  Dr.  B.  VVisncr,  the  lamented  Secre- 
tary ofthe  American  Baptist  Foreign  Mission. 

First  Baptist  Church,  corner  of  Hanover  and  Union-streets, 
first  constituted  ot  Charlestown  1665;  the  present  edifice 
erected  in  1828-9. 

Second  Baptist  Church  is  in  Baldwin  Place. 

Third  Baptist  Church,  Charles-street. 

Freewill  Baptist  Church,  Sea-street. 

South  Baptist  Church  in  South  Boston.  ■< 

.Federal-street  Baptist  Ciuirch. 

First  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  North  Bennett-street. 

Second  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  Bronfield- street. 

Third  Methodist  Episcopal  church,  Church-street. 

First  Universalist  Church,  corner  Hanover  and  Bennett- 
streets.  V 

Second  Universalist  Church,  School-street. 

Central  Universalist  Church,  Bullfinch-street. 

Fourth  Universalist  Church,  South  Boston. 

Episcopal  Churches. — The  King's  Chapel,  (Unitarian,)  cor- 
ner of  Tremont  ami  School-streets, a  substantial  stbne'edifice, 
was  erected  1754,  on  the  site  ofthe  original  structure.  The 
present  rector  is  F.  W.  P.  Greenwood.  Christ  Church,  in  Sa- 
lem street,  near  Copp's  Hill,  has  a  peal  of  eight  bells,  with  an 
inscription,  *'  We  are  the  first  ring  of  bells  cast  for  the  British 
Empire  in  North  America,  A.  R.  1744."  '*  God  preserve  the 
church  of  England."  "Gloucester;  Abel  Rudhall  cast  us 
all,  1744." 

During  the  battle  on  CharlcvStown  heights,  a  smart  cannon- 
ade v/as  kept  up  from  Copp's  Hill  on  the  Americans ;  a  car- 
cass was  thrown  that  set  fire  to  an  old  wooden  house,  near 
the  ferry  on  the  opposite  side,  and  it  being  all  fired  in  other 
place«  by  order  ofthe  British  officers,  the  town  was  speedily 
wrapped  in  flames. 


356 


,^.Bo$ton, 


^ 


Trinity  Church,  Summer-street,  is  of  unhewn  granite,  and 
one  of  the  most  elegant  churches  in  the  city.  Among  its 
former  rectors  have  been  Dr.  Parker,  from  1774  to  1804 ; 
George  W.  Doane,  the  present  Bishop  of  New  Jersey;  and 
Dr.  Wainwright,  novr  of  Trinity  Church,  New- York. 

St.  Paul's  Church,  Tremont-street ;   former  rectors.  Dr.  S. 
F.  Jarvis,  Alonzo  Potter;  John  S.  Stone,  present  minister. 
.    St.  Matthew's  Church,  South  Boston. 

Grace  Church,  Temple-street;  Zacharinh  Mead,  rector. 

Brattle-street  Church,  (Unitarian,)  S.  K.  Loihrop,  present 
minister.  The  former  ones,  Dr.  Benjamin  Coleman,  1699  to 
1747;  Wm.  Cooper,  Samuel  Cooper,  Peter  Thatcher,  Joseph 
S.  Buckminster,  Edward  Everett,  John  G.  Palfrey. 

New  North  Church,  (Unitarian,)  corner  of  Hanover  and 
Clark-streets.  Dr.  Francis  Parkman,  minister.  Former 
clergy,  J.  Webb,  P.  Thatcher,  Dr.  Andrew  Elliott,  from  1742 
to  1772;  Dr.  John  Elliott,  1779  to  1813. 

New  South  Church,  (Unitarian)  on  Church  'Green,  at  the 
union  of  Bedford  with  Summer-street.  Alexander  Young, 
present  minister.    Former  ones,  Samuel  Checkiey,  1719  to 

1769 ;  P Bower,  J.  Howe,  O.  Everett,  Dr.  John  T.  Kirk- 

land.  1794  to  1810;  S.  C.  Thacher,  1811  tol8— ,  P.  W.P. 
Greenwood,  now  at  Kind's  Chapel. 

Hollis-street  Church  (Unitarian.)  John  Pierpont,  present 
minister.  Former  ones.  Dr.  Mather  Byles,  1732  to  1777;  Dr. 
Samuel  West,  1789  to  1808 ;  Horace  Holly,  late  President  of 
Transylvania  University  in  Kentucky. 

Federal-street  Church,  (Unitarian,)  formed  by  Irish  Presby- 
terians in  1727,  and  adopted  the  Congregational  order  in  1786, 
and  in  1788  the  Federal  constitution  was  adopted  in  the  old 
church  built  in  1744,  on  the  site  of  which  the  present  ediUce 
was  erected,  180d.  The  pastors  have  been,  in  succession, 
John  Morehead,  Robert  Annan,  Jeremy  Belknap,  J.  S.  Pop- 
kin,  Dr.  Wm.  E.  Channing,  and  Ezra  S.  Gannett. 

VVe»t-8treet  Church,  in  Lynde,  near  Cambridge-street. 
Pastors  in  succession  since  1737,  Wm.  Hooper,  Jonathan 
Mahew,  D.  D.  Dr.  Simeon  Howard,  1767  to  1804,  and  Dr. 
Charles  Lowell. 

The  Park-street  Church,  (Congregational,)  corner  of  Tre- 
mont-street, was  built  in  1809-10.  Its  steeple  is  218  feet  high. 
Dr.  Edward  D.  Griffin,  S.  £.  Dwight,  and  Edward  Beecher, 
have  been  the  former  pastors.  Joel  11.  Linsley  is  the  present 
minister. 


Botton. 


<m: 


Union  Church,  Esiex*8treet.    Nehemiah  Adams,  pastor. 

Phillip's  Church,  South  Boston.    Jay  H.  Faircbiid. 

Green-streot  Church.     Dr.  William  Jenks.  ' 

Chambcr-slreet  Church.     S.  Barrett. 

Bowdoin*8ireet  Church.  Dr.  Lyman  Beecher  was  the  first 
pastor ;  Hubbard  Wintilow  is  the  present  minister. 

Pnrchase>8treet  Church.    George  Ripley. 

Pine  street  Church.     Artemas  Boies. 

Salem-street  Church.     George  Blagden. 

South  Congregational  Church,  Washington.  Mellish  J. 
Motte. 

Hawes  Place  Church,  South  Boston.     Lemuel  Caper.  ■ 

Franklin>street  Church. 

Church  of  the  Holy  Cross,  (Roman  Catholic,)  Franklin- 
itreet. 

Church  of  the  Holy  Cross,  (Roman  Catholic,)  Pond  street. 

St.  Augustine's  Church,  (Roman  Catholic,)  South  Boston. 

Friends'  Meeting,  Milton  Place,  Federal-street. 

African  Baptist  Church,  Belknap-street. 

African  Methodist  Chapel,  May-street. 

New  Jerusalem  Church,  Trcmont-street.  Thomas  Wor* 
cester.  ^ 

First  Mariners'  Church,  Purchase-street.  D.  M.  Lord, 
minister. 

Second  Mariners*  Church,  North  Square.  Edward  D. 
Taylor,  minister. 

Masonic  Lodge,  or  Temple. 

The  Medical  College  in  Mason-street  near  the  Common  is 
a  branch  of  (ho  Harvard  University. 

South  Boston  occupies  an  area  of  ground  of  several  hun- 
dred acres,  bounded  south  by  Dorchester  Bay,  and  north  by 
the  bay  that  separates  it  from  old  Boston  ;  and  from  its  gene- 
ral elevation  there  is  a  line  view  of  the  city  and  harbor.  Two 
bridges  extend  across  the  bay  and  unite  it  to  the  main  city. 
The  improved  manner  of  laying  out  the  streets  and  squarea 
makes  this  a  very  desirable  residence. 

East  Boston,  or  Noddle's  Island,  has  about  660  acres  of  land, 
besides  flats,  and  is  1,980  feet  north-east  from  the  city,  and 
the  same  from  Chelsea,  with  a  bridge  spanning  this  arm  of 
the  hsrbor,  and  a  ferry  to  connect  it  with  Boston,  requiring 
but  five  minutes  to  pass.  The  new  rail-road  to  Salem  crosses 
this  island,  and  here  is  the  dep6t. 

This  if  likely  to  be  wanted,  from  its  vicinity  to  Bofton  for 

22* 


' 


&5S 


Mounf  Auburn  Cemftery-^  Cambridge. 


cheap  private  refidences,  with  the  advantage  of  gardens,  and 
ample  space  for  mechanical  operationi.  And  here  U  the  East 
Boiton  Timber  Company,  and  the  Sugar  Refinery,  Merchant's 
Marine  Rail-way,  and  the  Boyden  Maleable  Iron  and  Sleei 
Works,  and  the  Maverick  Hotel,  a  spacious  building;  also  the 
large  steam-packets  for  Liverpool.    The  population  is  1,700. 

Mount  ^iuburn  Cemeterj/.  This  lovely,  cheerful,  and  sacred 
enclosure,  so  well  chosen  and  tastefully  arranged  to  receive 
its  silent  tenants,  and  to  prepare  and  adraoninh  the  living  visit- 
er, is  in  the  towns  of  Cambridge  and  Watertown,  about  three 
miles  from  Boston,  and  one  west  of  the  University,  and  125 
feet  above  Charles  River  that  winds  near  its  base,  and  ii 
easily  approached  by  the  road  or  river.  > , 

The  grounds  comprise  100  acres  that  are  under  the  charge 
of  the  Massachusetts  Horticultural  Society,  and,  as  if  design- 
ed  happily  for  this  exact  purpose,  we  here  find  hill  and  dale, 
streams  and  meadows,  ponds  for  aquatic  plants,  the  reroaini 
of  the  ancient  forest,  tho  lofty  oak,  the  beech,  the  rustling 
pine,  and  trees  and  shrubs  of  almost  all  descriptions  that  grow 
in  this  vicinity;  we  also  find  the  lofty  hill  crowned  with 
forests ;  the  sheltered  valley  ;  the  abrupt  declivity  ;  the  deep 
glen;  the  grassy  glade ;  and  the  silent  grove: — and  what 
nature  has  so  admirably  prepared,  the  art  and  skill  of  man  has 
been  liberally  bestowed  to  polish  and  improve,  by  winding 
jabyrintiiian  walks,  thick  shrubberies,  and  emblematic  flow- 
ers to  shield  the  fresh  upturned  earth  and  new-made  grave. 
Consummate  ability  and  taste  is  evinced  in  all  the  masterly 
arrangements. 

Plots  of  ground  of  300  square  feet,  at  suitable  distances 
along  the  winding  passages,  are  sold  by  the  Society  at  $66 
each  as  family  burial-places,  with  the  perpetual  ri^ht  to  pur- 
chasers of  enclosing,  decorating,  and  using  them  for  that  pur- 
pose. The  cemetery  was  entered  upon  and  dedicated  in  1831, 
and  attracts,  to  behold  its  romantic  and  graceful  charms,  thou- 
Bunds  of  admiring  and  contemplative  travelers. 

Cambridge  contains  the  University  of  Harvard,  is  three 
miles  from  West  Boston  bridge  that  divides  Cambridge  from 
BoKton,  or  rather  connectr.  them,  and  has  eight  churches  and 
5,000  inhabitants. 

Canjkbriftge  Port  is  quite  a  bustling,  condensed,  and  pros- 
perous village,  midway  between  the, college  and  the  bridge. 
m  East  Cambridge  is  also  a  thriving  place  of  more  recent 
f  rowth^  and  bas  hf  county  coucti  and  buildings,  and  ii  united 


^■It*.--- 


f^      Harvard  CoUege—CharleUown. 


^im 


to  the  capital  by  the  canal  bridge  and  the  viaduct  of  the  Low- 
ell  Railroad  over  Charles  River.  The  Cambndffo  Bank  and 
the  Charles  River  Bank  have  each  a  capital  of  $KK),000,  and 
the  Middlesex  Bank  of  East  Cambridge  one  of  $150,000,  and 
an  Insurance  Company  of  $100,000,  with  various  and  exten- 
sive manufactories,  and  one  of  crown  glass  of  unrivalled 
quality. 

Harvard  College^  founded  in  1636  and  incorporated  in  1638, 
receives  its  name  from  lis  earliest  benefactor,  the  Rev.  John 
Harvard,  who  gave  it  a  legacy  of  £779  17s.  2d.  sterling.  It 
has  since  enjoyed  many  lar^^e  donationn,  and  the  constant 
protection  and  munificence  of  the  State — its  funds  exceeding 
half  a  million  of  dollars.  The  number  of  nhimni,  or  graduates, 
exceeds  5,000,  and  its  students  396,  viz.  divinity,  19;  law,  78; 
medicine,  82;  under  graduates,  217:  its  library,  42,000  vo- 
lumes, is  rare,  valuable,  and  complete  in  the  American  historic 
cal  department.  There  is  a  botanical  garden  of  seven  acres, 
and  a  professor,  {late  Nuttal,)  and  a  very  valuable  philoso- 
phical apparatus,  chemical  laboratory,  anatomical  museum, 
and  cabinet  of  mineralsi.  The  i^tnnual  commencement  is  on 
the  last  Wednesday  in  August,  when  crowds  of  fashion  and 
beauty  throng  the  assemiilage.  The  president  is  the  Hon. 
Josiah  Quincy,  LL.  D.  There  is  a  corporation  and  a  board 
of  overseers,  and  a  host  of  distinguished  professors ;  viz.  on 
divinity,  law,  and  medicine,  in  all  branches;  of  Greek, 
Hebrew,  Spanish,  and  French,  Italian,  German,  and  Portu- 
guese languages;  of  mathematics,  natural  philc?;ophy,  rhcto* 
ric,  and  oratory,  and  belles  lettres ;  of  chemistry  and  miner- 
alogy ;  of  intellectual,  natural,  and  moral  philosophy. 

The  medical  lectures  commence  in  Boston  in  November, 
by  Dr.  J.  C.Warren  and  Dr.  James  Jackson,  nnd  at  the  college 
between  April  and  July.  The  thenlo|>ical  department  is  un- 
der Professors  Ware,  senior  and  junior,  and  Professor  Palfrey. 
The  Hon.  Joseph  Story,  of  the  United  States  Supreme  Court, 
is  the  prore.«8orof  law,  and  S.  Greenleaf,  coadjutor. 

There  are  six  large  halls,  of  brick,  four  stories  high,  a  new 
stune  chapel,  the  president's  house,  and  three  others  of  wood 
for  students,  that  are  situated  on  and  around  a  spacious  pub- 
lic square,  or  green,  amid  academic  groves,  with  an  air  and 
aspect  of  «ieclusion  and  repose. 

CkarUs/otcn  is  on  a  peninsula  extending  from  north-west  to 
loutlveast  for  several  miles,  bounded  by  Charles  River  on  the 
south-west  and  Mystic  on  the  north-east,  with  a  narrow 


J 


I 


960 


Stale  PHton^Nuey  Yitrd^Dry  Dock. 


iithniui  uniting  it  to  the  mnin,  and  two  hridgea  to  Boiton,  and 
on«  to  Chei«en  nnd  Maiden  over  tlio  Myitic  River.  It  hai 
three  hank*  of  n  capital  of  $150,000  eacli,  and  a  populMlion 
of  9,000;  five  chnrcheii,  a  town  hnll  and  market-house,  n 
large  almK-honse,  the  Mnioachuiietts  State  Priiion,  and  the 
Hoipltal  for  the  Insane  on  Ploaiant  Hill,  (see  page  249)  the 
ruins  of  tho  convent  Hhamefully  doilroyed  by  a  mob  in  the 
ni|^ht,  on  Mount  Benedict.  The  United  Staten  Navy  Yard 
tnd  Dry  Dock,  and  Bunker's  Hill  and  tho  monument,  arc  a(l 
comprised  within  iho  precincts  of  this  town,  and  immortalised 
in  history. 

Tho  Stait  Prison  yard  is  500  feet  by  400,at  the  west  end  of  the 
town,  on  a  point  of  land,  and  enclnsen,  by  a  lofty  woll,  the  pris- 
on, that  is  built  of  jzranito,  200  feet  by  44,  and  nve  stories  high, 
with  single  ckIIm,  on  tho  modern  Auburn  plan  of  rigid  silence, 
hard  labor,  and  solitary  cells.    300  convicts  are  in  the  walls. 

The  United  Slates  STavy  Fan/ has  60  ocres  within  a  high 
wall  of  stono  or  brick,  and  contains  three  large  (thip^houses, 
with  two  74*8,  and  a  frigate  of  44  ready  for  the  launch  ;  ware- 
houses, oHicers*  quarters,  and  garden,  a  rope-wnlU,  marine 
barracks,  and  f^uard-house,  and  an  immense  amount  of  naval 
•tores  and  timber,  live  oak,  &ic. 

The  Dry  Dock  is  341  feet  lon^*,  80  wide  and  30  deep,  and 
it  constructed  of  hewn  granite,  of  exact  and  elegant  masonry, 
resting  on  piles  driven  three  feel  apart  from  centre  to  centre, 
on  which  is  laid  a  massive  floor  of  onk  planks.  Owing  to 
some  defect,  when  nearly  completed,  a  rupture  took  place  in 
the  wall,  and  h  thundering  rush  of  water  came  in  and  filled 
tho  excavation,  but  it  was  soon  pumped  out  and  efficiently 
repaired.  Tho  cost  whs  $670,000.  The  Ohio,  Constitu- 
tion, and  the  Delaware  have  entered  and  been  coppered  and 
repaired. 

The  Naval  Hospital  and  Magazine  aro  at  Chelsea,  three 
milPv^  north-east  of  Boston,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mystic  River; 
and  Winisimmot  Landing,  ferry,  or  village,  that  has  flared  up 
recently  into  some  importance  from  its  vicinity  to  the  Chel- 
sea beach,  a  frequented  .ind  popular  bathing-place  in  summer. 

Fifty  years  after  the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  (that  took  place 
oxx  17th  June,  1775,)  General  Lafayette  being  then  in  this 
country  was  invited  to  assist  in  the  solemn  ceremony  of  lay- 
ing the  foundatioO'Stone  of  an  obelisk  to  commemorate  that 
event ;  and  the  old  surviving  soldiers  of  that  day  were  on  the 
spot  to  add  all  possible  interest  to  the  event.    Daniel  Web- 


Dunktr'B  iJill'-Excurgion  to  Nahant^  SfC.  -ftii 

Iter  on  that  occaiion  mnde  one  of  thoso  attoniihing  diiplays 
of  eloquence  for  which  he  in  lo  famouf. 

The  hill  ovorlookhig  Charleitown,  Boston,  and  a  vaet  ex- 
tent of  marine  and  land  scenery,  is  62  feet  ahove  tide  water. 
The  foundation  of  the  haee  or  Rubflructure  is  a  square  of 
60  feet,  and  20  below  the  ■urfaen,  whore  it  is  30 feet  square, 
Hnd  i«  to  rise  220  feet  to  an  apex  of  15  feet  square  ;  its  total 
elevation  above  the  harbor,  282  feet,  with  a  winding  siair- 
caio  in  the  interior.  The  structure  is  of  the  blue  Quincy 
granite,  anu  some  of  the  masses  are  1 1  feet  Ion);,  and  two 
feet  eight  inches  deep,  and  15  tons  weight;  cost  $100,000. 

The  traveler,  if  desirous  of  tracing  the  scanty  remains  of 
the  military  works  thrown  up  by  the  American  forces  while 
the  enemy  held  possession  of  the  town,  can  bepin  at  Roxbury 
and  go  round  to  Dorchester  and  Nook  Hill,  near  South  Bos- 
ton Bridge,  or  to  the  fort  at  Brookline  or  Sewell's  Point,  that 
commanded  the  entrance  to  Charles  River,  also  a  furt  with 
three  guns,  on  the  north  shore  of  the  same  above  the  m^rsh  ; 
hut  the  works  in  the  best  preservation  are  those  on  Butler's 
Hill,  Cambridge,  and  Prospect  Hill,  and  Ten  Hill  Farm,  com- 
manding the  Mystic  River.  The  works  on  Winter  Hill,  that 
were  very  extensive,  are  nearly  destroyed.  1  he  fort  at  Lech- 
roere  Point,  and  the  causeway  in  the  marsh,  and  covered  way 
on  the  hill,  and  lines  on  Willis'  Creek,  may  readily  be  traced. 

Bunker's  Hill,  on  the  summit  and  face  toward  the  north,  yet 
retains  the  impreen  of  tiie  enemy's  strong  and  extensive  mi- 
litary works  ;  but  at  Breed's  Hill,  where  the  bloody  struggle 
took  place,  misnamed  the  Battle  of  Buriker's  Hiil,  all  traces 
of  the  hasty  works  thrown  up  in  the  night  before  the  17th 
June,  by  the  American  militia,  are  obliterated,  but  a  monu- 
ment indicates  the  spot  where  Warren  fell;  also  some  re- 
mainsof  the  British  works  on  Boston  Neck  may  be  discovered. 


Excursion  to  Nahant  ilirough  liynn. 

This  may  be  effected  by  taking  the  eastern  or  Salem  rail- 
road, at  East  Boston,  as  far  as  Lynn,  and  thence  walking  or 
riding  n  distance  of  three  miles  along  the  hard,  sandy,  and 
pebbly  beach,  in  full  view  of  the  open  sea,  and  with  a  chance 
of  a  sight  at  the  sea  serpent,  that  has  an  attachment  to  these 
shores. 

la  thf  warmfeaion  a  stean^-bp;^  pfieis  tbf  rfadiest  coa- 


Exeurtion  to  Nahant, 


Yeyance,  ns  one  plies  daily,  starting  from  Boston  at  D 
A.  M.  and  returning  in  a  few  hours,  to  give  visiters  time  to 
exarnino  the  island  and  dine  at  the  capital  hotel.  The  pp. 
ninnula  is  divided  into  Great  and  Little  Nahant,  and  Bass 
Neck.  On  Great  Nahant,  the  east  and  largest  division,  con- 
taining 306  acres  of  land  under  cultivation,  there  are  several 
dwellings,  and  tho  hotel,  an  edifice  of  120  rooms,  with  a 
piazza  on  each  floor,  and  a  promenade  that  commaudi  the 
most  enchanting  aud  boundless  coast  view. 

During  the  sultry  heats  of  June,  July,  and  August,  crowdi 
of  the  wealthy  and  fashionable  resort  hither  to  enjoy  cool 
and  refreshing  breezes,  and  commune  with  the  magnificence 
of  nature. 

The  rocky  peninsula  projects  boldly  out  into  the  Atlantic 
aevral  miles  beyond  the  general  line  of  the  coast,  and  its 
'  aho^  J8  arc  a  barrier  to  the  fury  of  the  an^ry  and  majestic 
waves  that  exhaust  their  force  upon  this  iron-bound  head- 
£and ;  and  after  a  long  prevalence  of  easterly  winds  and 
storms,  the  succession  of  foaming  and  dashing  waves  that 
impinge  and  burst  against  the  precipitous,  rud(%  and  craggy 
rocks,  40  to  60  leet  high,  and  completely  drowning  them  in 
a  milk-white  foam,  and  with  its  roaring  and  heavy  thunder- 
ing crash,  shaking  the  very  foundations  of  the  deep-toothed 
rock,  is  a  sublime  spectacle. 

On  the  south  8ide  of  the  Great  Nahant  is  the  dark  cave  or 
grotto,  called  the  Swallow^a  House,  10  feet  wide,  5  feet  high, 
and  70  long,  that  increases  in  size,  in  a  few  steps,  to  14  leet 
in  breadth  and  18  or  20  in  height.  At  low  tide,  at  the  east 
'end,  in  the  holes  among  the  rocks,  is  found  the  animal  flower 
or  rose-fish,  adhering  to  small  stones  in  water  four  or  five 
feet  deep.  On  the  north  shore  of  the  peninsula  is  a  chasm  20 
or  30  feet  in  depth,  called  the  Spouting  Horn,  into  which,  at 
about  half  tide,  the  water  rushes  with  great  violence  and 
noise,  and  forces  a  jet  of  water  through  an  aperture  in  the 
rock  to  a  considerable  height  In  the  art*,  to  the  surprise  end 
confusion  of  novices  and  those  uninitiated  in  tho  mysteries  of 
old  Neptune. 

Billiard-rooms,  and  baths,  both  warm  ano  floating,  and 
bowling-alleys ;  bathing  in  the  surf,  and  rifling  along  the 
beach,  may  all  be  enjoyed  in  perfection;  ard  also  fishing, 
sailing,  and  a  variety  of  amusements. 

The  Nahant  Hotel,  open  for  the  reception  o^  boarders  and 
transient  visiters,  is  situated  at  the  extremity  of  the  peninsu- 


-•*"/ 


Salem— Marblehead — Beverly. 


369 


la,  extending  three  miles  into  the  ocean  south  from  Lynn,  and 
ii  distant  from  Boston  12  miles  by  water  and  14  miles  by  land. 

The  superior  advantages  of  this  watering-place  are  too  < 
well  known  to  require  a  particular  description.  Suffice  it  to 
MV)  that  for  pure  and  bracing  air,  commanding;  and  beauti- 
fuf  prospect,  good  bathing  and  excellent  fishing- grounds,  it 
has  not  its  superior  in  the  Union.  A  good  steam-bont  is  cm- 
ployed  to  run  between  Boston  and  Nahont,  leaving  each 
place  twice  every  day,  and  omnibus  coaches  intersect  the 
Nalem  rail-road  from  Boston,  at  Lynn,  four  times  every  day, 
for  the  conveyance  of  passengers  over  the  beach  to  and  from 
Nahant.  The  passage,  cither  by  land  or  water,  is  made  in 
one  hour. 

A  short  distance  from  the  hotel  are  private  boarding- 
hounes  and  rustic  cottages  to  please  those  seeking  more  re- 
tirement than  a  large  public  house,  or  that  intend  a  continued 
residence.  The  beach,  on  the  north-east  side,  at  low  water, 
is  firm  as  adamant,  and  yields  to  no  course  in  the  world  for 
it  ride. 

Salem,  Marhlehcad,  and  Beverly  may  all  be  vif^ited  with 
gratification,  especially  the  first  and  lasf,  but  the  other  being 
A  little  distance  out  of  the  rond,  may  be  omitted.  It  is  re- 
markable as  a  port  owning  100  fishing,  coasting,  and  mer- 
chant vessels;  tonnage  7,200;  population  5,150.  Ith.istwo 
banks,  with  a  capital  of  $120,000  and  $100,000,  but  its  best 
banks  and  main  dependence  are  the  fishing  banks  and  the 
iiardihood  and  intrepidity  of  its  marine  population.  Tho 
buildings  are  antiquated,  unpainted,  and  time-worn.  The 
harbor  is  easy  of  access  and  commodious. 

Salem  is  14  miles  north-east  of  Boston,  on  a  considerable 
bay  or  indentation  of  the  coast  20  miles  southwest  of  Cape 
Ann,  and  is  a  safe  harbor,  and  has  12  feet  dratit  of  water  at 
the  wharves;  30,000  tons  of  shipping,  eight  banks,  capital 
11,850,000,  and  insurance  of  $950,000,  and  n  population  of 
15,000,  imbued  with  a  chivalric  and  enterprising  spirit  of 
commerce  and  sober  and  industrious  habits,  that  in  past 
years  has  raised  the  people  to  a  high  state  of  wealth,  and 
rivalry  even  with  the  metropolis. 

Nathaniel  Bo wd itch,  the  eminent  astronomer  and  mathe- 
matician, was  born  in  this  town,  in  March,  1773,  and  resided 
hpre  until  1823,  when  he  was  invited  to  Boston  as  actuary 
of  the  Massachusetts  Life  Insurance  Company,  and  there 
spent  the  last  fifteen  years  of  his  life,  and  died  iu  1838,  hav- 


I- 


Iff 

mi 

:  mil 


mi 


264 


LjfnH'-Aiubver  and  Haverhill  RaU-road. 


ing  liTod  to  witnMs  tho  neiir  completion  of  hit  translation  or 
La  Place'a  Mecanique  Celeste.  The  Emt  India  Marine  So- 
ciety, and  tlieir  curiouf  and  valujable  mu«ucm  in  this  placf, 
the  result  of  the  combined  eflorta  of  raercantile  and  sea- 
faring men,  voyagers,  and  captaina,  is  well  worthy  of  exami- 
nation, and  is  open  free  of  expense.  There  is  an  Atheneuin, 
a  Court  House,  an  Asylum  for  Orphans,  and  13  churches. 
The  public  square  is  pleasant;  has  many  elegant  residence! 
fronting  it. 

Beverly  lies  north  of  Salem,  and  is  united  to  it  by  a  bridge 
of  1,600  feet  in  length,  built  in  1788 over  the  north  bay;  it 
has  60  sail  of  fishermen  and  20  coasters;  large  manufactu- 
ries  of  shoes  and  cabinet  ware,  a  rope  walk,  and  two  hairfac- 
tories,and  a  bank  with  a  capital  of  $100,000.  Population  4,000. 

Danvers,  two  miles  north-west  of  Salem,  has  a  population 
of  4,228;  its  32  tanneries,  and  the  manufacture  of  shoes  and 
leather  is  computed  at  $760,000.  It  has  a  rolling  and  slitting 
mill,  14  nail  machines,  a  foundery,  and  considerable  water 
power  ;  bricks  and  pottery  ware  are  also  made  here ;  granite 
is  quarried.  Two  banks,  the  Danver's  and  Warren,  with 
capitals  of  $150,000  and  ji>120,000  respectively,  and  insur- 
ance capital  of  $100,000. 

Lynny  nine  miles  north-east  of  Boston,  on  the  road  to 
Nahant  and  Salem,  is  a  thrifty  town  of  6,500  inhabitanta, 
who  have  made  themselves  wealthy  and  famous  by  their 
persevering  industry  in  the  manufacturing  of  shoes,  that 
appears  to  engross  the  population  more  exclusively  than  any 
other  branch  of  business,  if  a  traveler  can  judge  by  the  snug 
workshops  that  abound.  Tho  road  to  Nahant  leads  out  to 
the  east  opposite  the  Lynn  Hotel.  The  Lynn  and  the  Na- 
hant Bank  at  this  place,  have  each  a  capital  of  $160,000, 
and  two  Insurance  Companies  $150,000.  There  are  several 
neat  churches. 

The  Andover  and  Haverhill  Rail-road  branches  at  the  15 
mile  post  out  north-east  from  the  Boston  and  Lowell  Rail- 
road in  Wilmington,  7i  miles  to  Andorer,  thence  \o  Bradford 
on  the  south  bank  of  the  Merrimnc  River;  five  miles  thence 
it  crosses  the  Merrimac  by  a  new  and  handsome  bridge  and 
viaduct  of  several  hundred  feet  in  length,  to  Haverhill  on  the 
north  shore.  Thence  it  is  continued  north  to  Exeter^  in  New 
Hamp«hire,  and  to  Dover;  thence  to  Portland,  with  a  branch 
to  Portsmouth. 

The  cost  of  construction  to  Haverhill,  and  thence  to  the 


t.      EMCurtioH  frmn  Bottom  U  /«»•/&  Vlt.^        Itt 

MatMchutetU  lin«,  was  $376,641.  Receipt!  in  on€  ytar  for 
ptMengeri,  $42,963— for  frei^ilit,  $12,664,  and  from  other 
Murcev,  $1,780.  Total,  $57,396. 

Merrimae  River  ii  navigable  for  veaaets  of  200  tons  to  Ha- 
verhill, and  for  boats  to  Concord,  Mew  Hampshire,  by  the 
Bow  Canal,  near  Concord;  the  Hooktett  Canal,  six  miles 
lower;  Amoskeag  Canal,  eight  milca;  Union  Canal,  south 
of  the  preceding;  a  canal  round  Cromwell's  Falls,  near  the 
mouth  of  Sauhegan  River,  and  the  Wicasseo  Cunal,  15  miles 
below,  and  three  miles  from  the  entrance  of  the  Middlesex 
Canal,  and  the  grent  manufacturing  town  of  LoweU. 

The  Merrimae  River  originates  in  the  most  lofty  part  of 
the  White  Mountains  in  New  Humpwhire,  in  ponds  near  the 
Franconia  Notch,  and  in  the  extensive  lakes  and  reservoirs 
of  Winnipiseogee,  Squnra,  &c.,  and  has  its  course  of  150 
miles  entirely  in  New  Hampshire  and  Massachusetts,  passing 
by  the  towns  of  Plymouth,  Concord,  and  minor  towns  in  New 
Hampshire,  and  Chelmsford,  Lowtllf  Haverhill^  Bradford) 
Amesbury,  Salisbury,  and  at  Newburypori  in  Massachusetts, 
where  it  terminates  in  the  broad  Atlantic.  It  is  onn  of  the 
inost  important  streams  in  the  Eastern  States  for  its  falls  ;  it 
runs  through  a  granite  region,  and  in  many  places  has  worn 
a  deep  rocky  dell  in  the  solid  rock. 


:i 


1 


Excursions  from  Boston  to  liowell^  9i 
milesy  and  on  to  Goncordy  Centre  Har- 
bor, and  Conway.  Y< 

''■  The  rail-road  from  Boston  to  Lowell  crosses  the  Charles 
River  to  Charlestown  on  a  viaduct  on  the  west  of  the  Warren 
bridge,  and  thence  proceeds  in  a  north-westerly  direction  25 
miles  to  the  Nourishing  town  of  Lowell,  on  the  Merrimack 
River,  through  Medford,  Woburn,  and  Tewksbury,  on  a  pa-^ 
rallel  not  far  distant  from  the  Middlesex  Canal ;  *he  country 
passed  over  is  uneven,  but  the  average  of  inclination  does 

*Rait-roiid, — Boston  to  Worcester,  45  miles,  fare  $1  50.  Boston  to 
LoweU,  25  niiieB,$l.  Boston  to  Andover  and  Haverhill,  88  cents.  Steam- 
boaU — Boston  to  Ban^i^or,  Maine,  $7.  Boston  to  Uallowell,  $4,  Boatoa 
t«  Portland,  $1.    Boston  to  Nahant,  25  cenU. 

23 


•la,  ii    j 

^  -I"  *•  1 


366         Boiton  and  Lowell  Rail-road — Manufaitoriet. 

not  vary  over  10  feet  in  a  mile,  lo  well  ii  the  gr»de  preierred. 

There  are  two  tracks,  and  Mtone  and  iron  are  the  basli  of 
construction.  This  is  or.e  of  the  bett,  though  not  the  most 
costly,  roads  in  the  United  States,  the  expense  having  been 
$1,675,663.  A  branch  to  i4ndoe«r,  of  seven  and  a  hairmilos, 
leads  out  to  the  north  east  from  Wilmington.  (For  Andover 
and  the  Theological  Seminary,  see  page  274.) 

Primary  rocks  of  granite,  gneiss,  mica  slate,  &.c.  are  pre- 
valent and  in  place,  and  in  boulders,  in  10 or  15  miles.  Gran- 
ite is  prepared  by  hewing  and  shaping  in  large  quantities  in 
the  vicinity  of  Lowell,  and  nt  various  places  on  the  Merrimac 
Bivor,  for  diKtant  markeis,  New-York,  &c.  The  boulders, 
that  in  some  places  cover  the  surface,  are  split  for  building 
purposes. 

The  most  expensive  and  singular  feature  of  this  work,  is 
the  deep  rock  cut  near  the  entrance  into  the  city,  of  one  fourth 
of  a  mile  long,  and  in  some  parts  thirty  to  forty  feet  deep,  of 
mica  slate,  in  nearly  perpendicular  strata,  with  injected  veint 
of  trap,  distorted  or  broken  off;  and  to  the  geologist  the  idea 
is  at  once  suggested  that  this  must  have  been  caused  hy  the 
action  of  intense  heat  and  fire  from  below  acting  upwards  on 
masses  in  a  state  of  fusion. 

Boston  and  Lowell  Rail-road.  Receipts  for  one  year  for 
passengers  between  Boston  and  Lowell,  $94,569.  For  freight 
between  Boston  and  Lowell,  $76,236.  For  passengers  for 
Andover  and  Haverhill,  $14,514.  For  freight  for  Andover 
and  Haverhill,  $3,482.  For  passengers  on  Nashua  and  Low- 
ell road,  $1,976.  For  mail,  Boston  to  Lowell,  $1,000.  To- 
tal receipts,  $191,777.  Dividend  in  one  year,  $90,000,  or 
near  six  per  cent.  The  company  have  also  land  for  sale  that 
cost  $48,635 ;  and  cash  on  hand,  $23,339  ;  besides  notes  and 
debts  due  them  to  the  amount  of  $36,511. 

The  population  of  Lowell  at  the  present  time  is  estimated  at 
20,000,  linti rely  dependent  on  the  vast  manufacturing  industry 
that  is  here  exhibited  in  its  Iwentj/'fiveltirge  brick  and  stone 
edifices^  each  being  over  150  feet  long  and  6  stories  hi&fh; 
total  number  of  spindles,  about  100,000;  and  of  looms,  4,000; 
and  of  operatives,  4,000  females  and  1,600  males;  using  up 
over  20,000  bales  of  cotton  in  a  year,  making  sixty-three 
millions  of  yards  of  cotton  goods !  besides  wool,  60,000 
yards,  and  as  many  pounds  made  into  carpets  of  all  kinds, 
rugs,  &.C.  and  as  much  also  made  into  cassimeres  and  other 

cloths.         ■■■•.'■'    "?■•;•■-■  ■  ■"•  -'^fmfit*!  -x^Tv^ii'  ■• 


Manufaetoriet — Merrimae  River. 


*9 


The  ftmount  of  capital  required  to  carry  on  theio  gigan« 
tic  operations  it  nearly  ten  niillioni  of  dollarn.  ' 

The  inexhaustible  reiourcci  ami  fallit  of  33  feet  in  the 
Mtrrimac  River,  give  the  water  power  at  this  place,  by  a 
canal  one  mile  and  a  half  lonff^,  60  feet  wide,  and  8  feet 
deep,  that  taps  the  river  above  the  fallii,  and  is  drawn  from, 
bv  minor  canals,  ducts,  or  race-ways,  by  each  factory,  and 
(li0charged  into  the  river  below  the  falls. 

The  machine  shop  is  of  brick,  four  stories  high,  220  feet 
long,  and  45  wide.  In  1813,  the  first  impultte  was  given  to 
this  place  by  a  factory,  and  the  war,  and  the  high  tariff.  The 
place  has  increased  with  rapid  strides,  and  the  Boston  capi- 
talists  are  the  prime  movers.  Here  American  ingenuity  and 
industry  shine  unrivalled,  and  in  the  finish,  beauty,  snugness, 
neatness,  method,  order,  quietness,  and  in  the  many  guards 
against  fire  :  and  in  voniitories,doors,  and  windows,  nothing  is 
omitted.  The  operatives  are  ail  natives,  and  are  from  the 
surrounding  towns,  and  cam  about  one  million  and  a  quarter 
of  dollars  in  wages  annually. 

The  mechanics  have  erected  a  large  hall,  and  public  lectures 
therein  are  given  on  useful  and  amusintr  topics,  by  talented 
persons  and  men  of  science ;  it  has  a  library  and  cabinet, 
and  has  dene  much  to  elevate  the  character  of  the  population, 
and  will  continue  to  effect  much  good. 

There  are  20  churches  of  various  denominations,  and  a 
high  tone  of  order,  police,  and  morality  is  sustained  in  this  town. 

From  Lowell  the  road  runs  along  the  south  shore  of  the 
Merrimae  for  10  miles,  and  there  it  crosses  the  river  Nashua 
to  the  town  of  that  name,  a  village  of  upwards  of  3,000  souls, 
and  of  several  factories  and  a  canal,  and  a  rail  road  leading 
to  Lowell  and  Worcester  ;  thence  it  pursues  its  course  up  by 
the  shores  of  the  lively  Merrimae  for  33  miles,  to  Concord, 
the  capital  of  New  Hampshire,  the  river  being  nuvicable  for 
boats  from  Chelmsford  to  this  place;  and  from  Boston  to 
Chelmsford  ii  the  canal  of  Middlesex. 

The  town  of  Concord  is  on  ^  plain,  with  hills  to  the  west ; 
has  300  houses,  and  about  2,0C0  souls.  The  views  on  the 
river  are  pleasant.  It  is  laid  out  near  a  bend  of  the  river,  on 
two  streets,  one  of  two  miles  long.  The  State  House  and 
Stale  Prison  are  both  of  granite  ;  several  churches,  a  bank, 
kc;  the  first  mentioned  are  elegant  erections. 

From  Concord  to  Centre  Harbor,  on  a  branch  of  Lake 
Wionipiseogee,  is  41  miles,  passing  through  Canterbury, 


.««., 


r 


2«8 


*      iMke  W%nHtpi»9»gee.   i***5* 


Northfield,  Sanborton,  Gilmanton,  Gilforrt,  and  Meredith,  ;ind 
passing  at  Guilford^  on  a  peninsula,  over  tlie  outlet  that  comes 
from  Winnipiseogee  Lake,  a  a  powerful  stream,  known  (is 
the  Aquedachton,  with  a  vigorous  current  over  a  clean  stony 
bed,  ils  water  pellucid  and  cold.  On  the  shores  of  the  Mer- 
rimac  River,  for  18  miles,  is  a  sandy  road,  then  Hof  hills  and 
dates.  Boscawen  is  on  a  single  street  parallel  with  the  river 
and  north  of  the  Contoocook,  that  comes  in  from  the  south* 
west.  The  next  town  is  Salisbury,  and  here  a  bridge  extends 
over  the  Pemigemasset,  (the  name  given  here  to  the  branch 
of  the  Merrimac  from  the  north)  and  another  is  soon  crossed 
over  the  Aquedachtun,and  Sanborton  is  entered,  a  fine  tract 
near  a  small  lake,  or  bay,  of  that  name,  ten  miles  long  and 
two  broad — in  fact,  it  is  a  branch  of  the  Winnipiseogee  Lake. 
The  road  goes  on  the  south  border  of  Sanborton  Bay,  in  Gil* 
mantown  township,  amid  fine  farms, 

Guilford  is  a  sprightly,  busy-looking  place,  haa  a  neat 
church  and  about  100  houses,  on  a  low  level  spot  on  each 
side  of  the  outlet,  with  mills.  The  aspect  of  the  country  as 
we  advance  is  rich  and  luxuriant,  the  hill  slopes  declining  to 
the  south-east ;  views  extensive  in  all  parts,  and  that  over  the 
Sanborton  Lake  peculiarly  fine;  and  the  smaller  lake  on  the 
north-east  is  also  attractive ;  the  former  prepares  one  for  the 
scene  that  bursts  upon  the  sight  on  arriving  at  the  yoint  where 
the  large  lake  is  completely  unfolded  to  the  enraptured  sight 
of  the  traveler. 


f'^ 


'  liake  liriniiipiseogrec* 

This  lake  is  20  miles  in  extent  from  north-west  to  south- 
east, and  from  five  to  10  miles  wide,  being  of  irregular  form, 
and  ia  of  great  depth,  and  has  an  abundance  of  delicious  fish. 
It  mast  receive  its  principal  fountains  of  supply  from  the 
deepest  sources  beneath,  as  there  is  not  any  stream  of  conse- 
quence pouring  into  it.  Its  purity  has  but  one  rival,  that  of 
Lake  George,  in  New- York.  This  b«ke,  perhaps,  in  some 
points  of  view,  has  even  the  preference  over  that,  but  nature 
has  a  thousand  charms  here  'n  reserve  for  its  votaries  and 
admirers,  and  we  shall  not  pretend  to  influence  their  opin- 
ions in  this  respect. 

Not  even  Lake  George  is  more  richly  and  gorgeously  stud- 
ded with  the  most  beautiful  islands,  of  all  sizes  and  forms, 


Boston  to  the  White  Mountains. 


than  this,  from  tufted  rocks  of  a  few  feet  to  those  of  500 
acres.  As  to  the  exact  number,  report  assigrn,  as  usual,  one 
for  every  dny  in  the  year.  14  or  15  are  large  enough  for 
farming  purposes. 

A  sleam  boat  plies  in  summer  from  Centre  Hnrbor,  in  the 
north-west  angle,  to  Merrymeeling  Bay  or  Alton,  in  the  south- 
west extremity,  arm  or  head,  that  yields  facility  in  beholding 
the  groups  of  islands  and  the  surrounding  shores,  that  is  in- 
valuable to  tlvo  stranger  and  the  lover  of  the  picturesque. 
The  peaks  of  the  White  Monntnins  are  among  the  grand 
outlines  of  this  laUe  voyage.  The  view,  under  favorable  cir- 
cumstances, of  this  sheet  of  water,  is  most  enchanting, 
either  from  gliding  over  its  bosom  in  a  boat,  or  in  looking 
down  on  its  glassy,  blue,  and  ethereal  and  trantiparent  sur- 
face from  any  of  its  prominences,  peaks,  headlands,  or  sum- 
mits, when  the  haze  and  hues  of  a  bird's-eye  or  plunging 
view  adds  vastly  to  the  unspeakable  illusions  of  the  scene. 
The  Red  Mountain  to  the  north-west,  Mount  Major  lo  the 
south,  the  Ossapee  to  the  north-east,  thcGunstock  Mount 
to  the  south-east.  The  hill  at  Centre  Harbor  head  presents 
n  complete  and  magnificent  view  of  the  lake  in  all  its  glory. 
The  peculiar  limpid  brij^htness  and  radiance  of  its  waters  is 
the  admiration  of  beholders,  and  a  constant  theme  of  eulogy. 
The  breaks  and  jagged  irregularities  of  the  outlines  of  this 
transparent  inland  sea  of  fresh  water,  is  one  of  its  striking 
and  picturesque  features. 

Sqaam  Lake  is  seen  to  advantage  In  going  from  Centre 
Harl)or  to  Plymouth  over  hills  and  dales;  its  indentaiions, 
points,  Jind  coves — islands  occasionally  gleam  f(»rlh  with  un- 
expectG«^  lustre  from  Holderness  on  its  west,  and  Sandwich 
on  its  e«;iit  border.  This  sheet  of  water  is  eight  or  ten  miles 
long,  and  three  to  five  wide. 

From  Ccsitre  Harbor  is  24  miles  to  Eaton,  at  the  head  of  a 
pond  or  lake  that  has  its  outlet  through  O-ssapce  River  to  the 
Saco.  This  route  is  for  the  most  part  through  a  secluded  val- 
ley amid  loff y  ridges,  and  14  miles  farther  to  the  north-east 
brings  us  to  Conway.     (See  page  244.) 

Another  route  from  Boston  to  the  Winnipiseogee  Lake  and 
the  White  Mountains,  is  by  the  north-eastern  rail-road 
through  East  Boston,  Salem,  and  Ipswich,  to  Newburyport, 
and  thence  to  Exeter  or  Portsmouth,  Dover,  and  Alton,  at 
the  south  of  the  lake,  and  by  steam-boat  thence  to  Centre 
Harbor,  as  before. 

23* 


ri' 


jKdfcLi-JfeJli.-AA.a:.  _l.>. 'i-.Vl  >Ifc  i.. 


570 


BotUm  to  the  White  Monntaim. 


'I  'i 


*^  At  Plymouth  a  road  extends  up  the  valley  of  Baker's  Ri- 
ver for  30  miles,  through  the  Fraiiconia  Gorge,  passing  the 
Moose-hillock  Mountain  on  the  left,  and  the  Profile  Mountain. 
(See  page  283  ) 

Baker's  River  is  the  remote  north-west  branch  of  the 
Merrimack,  and  is  a  large  mill-stream  bordered  by  hills  that 
at  timss  soar  to  mountains  ;  the  settlements  are  few  and 
far  between ;  and  on  the  summit  level  is  an  inn,  with  the 
ground  rising  to  the  north-east  and  south-west,  but  a  free 
passage  is  left  in  a  direction  north-west  and  south-east  to 
the  country  below,  with,  on  the  north,  a  lake  \^  uiiles  lon^ 
and  three  quarters  wide ;  the  inn  was  formerly  kept  by  Tarle- 
ton.  In  this  vicinity  the  moiinlain  ash  grows  in  abundance. 
•  From  Dover  to  JNorway,  or  Pine  Plain,  the  road  is,  in  part, 
excessively  stony,  and  the  rest  good  to  Middleton  and  to 
WolfbortP  Bridge  on  the  outlet  of  Smith's  Lake,  that  here 
joins  the  Winnipineogee,  where  is  about  50  hotises.  A  hay 
or  arm  of  the  greater  take  below,  six  miles  long  and  two 
broad,  reaches  up  to  this  spot ;  the  shores  are  winding,  the 
waters  of  tho  most  transparent  imaginable  clearness  and 
purity — shore  varied  and  sloping  gratefully  to  the  edge  of 
the  water — soil  rich  and  covered  with  verdure.  The  outlet  is 
a  large  sprightly  stream  ;  peach  trees  grow — other  fruits 
prosper;  spring  is  cold  and  backward,  from  the  ice  in  the 
lake  ;  at  XUe  bridge^  and  at  othtr  parts  of  the  big  lake,  are 
caught  trout  of  the  weight  of  one  to  20  pounds  !  pike  one  to 
four,  perch  one  to  three,  roach  one  to  two,  cush  one  to  four, 
pout  eels,  &c. 

John  Wentworth,  Governor  of  New  Hampshire,  before 
the  revolution,  had  his  residence  on  this  road,  five  miles  east 
of  the  t  idge,  when  this  was  all  a  wilderness.  Such  was  his 
opinion  at  thai  remote  period  of  the  beauties  and  charms  of 
this  lake,  that  has,  until  within  a  very  few  years,  remained 
almost  unknown,  unvisited,  and  neglected  by  Americans, 
from  its  being  heretofore  offthe  regular  track  to  the  "  Springs 
and  Falls."  It  now  begins  to  be  appreciated  as  it  ought,  and 
the  "lime  has  come"  when  the  purlieus  of  the  cities  are 
avoided,  and  sites  are  sought  for  on  our  most  secluded  lakes, 
as  the  residences  of  the  wealthy  and  tasteful,  the  literary 
and  refined. 

Arras  of  the  lake,  yielding  fine  views,  extend  far  up  into 
Tuflon  and  Moultou,  and  a  good  road  is  found  to  Centre 
Harbor.  ,  ■s'.'^'-i;-^^'  .f. 


Botton  and  Worcester  Rail-road, 


m^' 


Lake  WenUoorth.* — The  ascent  to  the  summit  of  Red 
Mouniain  in  steep  and  arduous,  and  can  be  effected  in  a  cnr<* 
riage  or  on  horseback  a  considerable  portion  of  the  dis- 
tance. The  south-east  face  of  the  mountain  gives  the  entire 
coup  d'ceil  of  the  lake  and  of  the  country  buhiacent  nnd 
panoramic.  The  great  Ossipee  in  the  south-east.  Mount  Ma- 
jor in  tho  N.  VV\  Moose  Mount  in  the  S.  W.  and  ihe  Alton 
Range,  are  all  seen  to  an  advantage  infinitely  exceeding  one's 
expect  tiUons. 

The  Red  Face  Mountain  is  not  less,  probably,  than  1,800  or 
2,000  feet,  jutting  out  boldly  into  the  lake,  that  from  ita  im- 
mediate base  deep  down  beneath  our  sight,  stretches  23 
miles,  its  various  prongs,  before  and  on  each  side,  deeply 
scooped  out  of  the  lofty  hilU  in  the  most  elegant  forms. 
The  islands  are  from  this  spot  seen  in  groups  on  each  side 
of  the  mid  channel,  their  length  at  right  angles  to  that  of  the 
lake,  as  though  the  chains  of  hills  had  been  absorbed  in  the 
depths  of  the  lake,  only  leaving  out  a  portion  of  the  rotund 
summit  or  apex — 45  of  such  may  be  counted.  The  points  or 
peninsulas  intruding  into  the  lake  from  the  sides  are  ample, 
and  retidy  to  become,  with  little  expense,  favorite  and  che- 
rished  residences  of  the  wealthy. 

J\Sonadnf)ck  MourUain,  70  miles  to  the  south-west,  is  a  frrand 
feature  in  the  dmi  distance,  and  on  tho  north  the  range  of 
Sandwich  Mountains. 

The  elevatirm  of  this  lake  above  tide  is  about  the  same  as 
Lake  Eric,  over  500  feet.  A  survey  for  a  canal  lo  connect  the 
north-west  arm  of  this  luke  by  the  outlet  of  Squam  Lake, 
and  up  the  valley  of  Baker's  River  to  the  Connecticut,  and 
the  south-east  arm  at  Alton  to  the  Conchecas  at  Dover,  and 
thence  to  tide  water  of  Portsmouth  harl>or,  has  been  made 
and  found  practicable,  n  »  >■  «> 

Boston  nnd  Worcester  Rail-road, — This  was  begun  In  Sep- 
tember, 1832,  the  year  after  the  incorporation  was  granted. 
It  commences  at  the  soiith  cove  on  the  margin  of  the  har- 
bor, near  the  free  bridge  in  the  south-east  part  of  Boston,  and 
paxseti  under  Washington  street,  and  emerges  at  and  pro- 
ceeds west  over  the  viaduct,  and  through  Brighton,  Newton, 
Needham,  Natick,  the  south  part  of  Framingham  and  South- 
borough,  the  north  part  of  Uopkinton,  the  middle  of  West- 
borough,  the  north  of  Grafton,  stopping  in  each  place  at  the 
depdts  for  passengers  and  merchandise.     The  road  is  of  the 

^  Or  Wiauipiseog'ee 


.ii.i-.a.'.;ii.i.'<^J.-ril*i.V«*-i><'t:-!../«=*A>.'l>^ 


raa 


272 


Newton — Natick—Framingham. 


I 


iron  edge  rail  on  cast-iron  chairs,  on  cross  sleepers  of  wood, 
the  foundation  of  stone  rubble  In  a  trench,  out  of  the  reach  of 
froat ;  length  42  miles.  The  cost,  including  the  branch  of 
three  miles  from  Grafton  to  Millbury,  and  the  dep6t8  at  Bos- 
ton an<l  Worcester,  and  on  the  route,  the  cars,  engines,  far. 
Sic.  is  .<?1.260,000,  or  $30,000  per  mile,  opened  from  Boston 
to  Newton  in  ApriJ,  1884,  and  to  Weslborough,  32  miles,  in 
November  following.  The  fare  to  Worcester  is  $1  50— lime 
three  to  four  hours.  Amount  of  copiial  stock  paid  in, 
$1,700,000.  Receipts' for  one  year,  $212,325.  Passengers, 
$112,000.  Dividend  6  per  cent,  per  annum.  After  proceed, 
ing  to  Cambridge,  it  crosses  the  Charles  River  on  a  hand- 
some  viaduct  of  solid  granite  piers,  and  goes  into  Brighton, 
five  miles  south-west  of  Boston,  where  is  the  famous  mart 
for  cattle,  and  a  pleasant  town  on  tbe  south  side  of  Charles 
River,  and  a  bank  with  a  capital  of  $150,000.  Monday  is  the 
market  day. 

!  Newton,  seven  miles  from  Boston,  is  both  an  agricultural 
and  manufacturing  town,  and  is  beautifully  disposed  into 
hill  and  dale,  and  having  the  Charles  River  within  its  borders 
for  several  miles,  and  falls  of  considerable  extent.  There  are 
manufactories  of  cotton  and  woolen  cloth,  paper,  iron,  ma- 
chinery, chemicals,  &c.  There  Is  a  Theological  Seminary, 
There  are  numerous  bridges  over  the  Charles  River  in  thi« 
township,  and  by  a  viaduct  the  rail-road  again  crosses  to  the 
west  side  of  the  stream,  and  passes  through  the  centre  of 
the  town.    Paper  and  iron  are  manufactured  here. 

J^atick,  16  miles  west  of  Boston,  is  also  bordered  by  the 
Charles  River,  and  contains  numerous  fish  ponds  and  facto- 
ries of  shoes,  paper,  &.c.  Its  nnme,  as  applied  by  the  Indians, 
means  a  hilly  region.  The  firf:t  Indian  church  in  Mew  Eng< 
land  was  established  here  in  1660  The  road  now  leaves  the 
water  of  Charles,  and  passes  over  the  hills  to  the  Concord 
River  by  the  head  or  around  the  south  side  of  a  pond, 

Framinghnm,  20  miles  west  of  Boston,  and  the  siime  from 
Worcester,  has  the  Sudbury  River  and  many  ponds  famous 
for  the  sports  of  fishing,  fowling,  &o.  and  for  its  factories  of 
cotton,  wool,  carriages,  ho.  It  hhs  a  bank  of  a  capital  of 
$100,000,  less  $550.  *   r ;  <    ^:^  ■£  U  <^rl  -; 

Snuthhoro\  25  miles  from  Boston,  is  passed  in  a  direction 
to  the  south-west,  that  in  three  miles  after  passing  out  of 
Middlesex  County,  introduces  us  to  the  county  of  Worces- 
ter, and  in  four  milea  more  to  VFeslborough,  32  miles  from 


Orafton — Leiceiter —  Weitfield  Riter, 


273 


Bolton,  and  3i^  north-^west  of  Hopkinton  Springs.  It  has 
the  head  waters  of  Concord  and  Sudbury  rivers,  and  seve- 
ral large  ponds  and  factories  of  shoes  and  edge  tools. 

The  Mintral  Spring  in  Hopkinton  is  much  visited  by  the 
Bostonians.  It  contnins  carbonic  acid  and  carbonate  of  !ini# 
and  iron,  and  is  :iear  Whitehall  Pond,  a  famous  place  for 
fishing;  and  it  has  the  attraciiong  of  a  good  hotel,  and  is 
seven  miles  from  the  canal  leading  from  Worcee^ter  lo  Pro- 
vidence by  the  Blackstone  Hiver,  30  miles  from  Boston  or 
Providence. 

Grafton  is  the  nest  settlement,  and  is  36  miles  south-west 
of  Boston ;  its  exports  in  leather,  boots,  and  shoes  amounts 
to  $700,000  a  year,  and  of  cotton  and  woolen  goods  and 
scythes,  $415,000,  besides  tin  ware,  &c. 
For  description  of  Worcester  see  Index. 
Leicester  is  six  miles  from  Worcester,  and  46  from  Boston, 
and  is  on  the  highest  ground  between  Boston  and  Connecti- 
cut River,  and  hus  an  academy  that  is  flourishing  and  in  ex- 
tensive repute,  with  ample  funds,  buildings,  and  airy  accom- 
modations. There  is  a  bank  with  a  capital  of  $100,000. 

The  road  now  crosses  a  chain  of  hilts,  and  attains  to  950 
feet  above  tide  at  Boston,  and  descends  to  Spencer,  12  miles 
from  Worcester..  Here  are  powder  mills,  cloth,  shoe,  and 
scythe  factories,  and  the  head  waters  of  the  Chickapee  Ri- 
ver, several  branches  of  which,  coming  from  the  north,  are 
crossed  as  we  proceed  to  Brookf,eld,  eight  miles  west  of 
Worcester,  and  68  miles  from  Boston.  It  is  a  capital  town- 
ship of  land,  and  has  several  large  ponds  with  plenty  of  fish, 
and  a  mineral  spring — raises  fine  cattle — has  a  satinet  fac- 
tory, a  furnace,  and  makes  shoes  in  quantities. 

From  this  point  we  descend  the  valley  of  the  Chickapee 
River,  past  ffes/cfn,  out  of  Worcester  into  Hampden  County, 
and  cross  the  Chickapee  into  the  town  of  Palmer^  70  miles 
from  Boston,  and  again  crossing  the  Chickapee  we  arrive,  in 
a  further  progress  of  20  miles  in  a  south-west  direction,  at 
Springfield,  on  the  Connecticut  River,  that  is  described  at 
page  223. 

After  crossing  the  roil-road  bridge  to  West  Springfield,  the 
road  ascends  by  the  valley  of  Westfield  River,  and  in  five 
miles  crosses  that  stream,  and  also  the  Hampshire  and  Hamp- 
den Canal,  that  extends  from  Northampton  to  New  Haven, 
(see  page  210,)  and  enters  the  town  of  JVeslJield,  one  of  the 
pleasing  settlements  of  this  county,  that  has  an  academy  of 


274 


Eaitern  Coart  Rduie-^Aruloifef. 


hig-h  standing,  and  a  bank  (the  Hampden)  with  a  capital  of 
$100,000.  The  manufacture  of  whips  here  employs  a  con- 
siderable population.  fri 
Russell  is  five  miles  from  Westfield,  and  100  from  Boston. 
Blanfordf  104  miles  from  Boston,  is  next  passed,  and  has  a 
cotton  factory  and  pape  mill,  with  soapstone,  &c.  The  road 
from  Westfield  has  been  in  a  north-west  direction,  and  so 
continues  to  Becket,  in  Berkshire  County,  and  soon  crosses 
the  Hoosick  range  of  mountains  to  Washington,  where  is  a 
deposit  of  burr  stones,  from  whence  we  descend  the  Housa* 
tonic  valley  to  Dalton  and  Pittsfitld,  and  to  West  Stock- 
bridge,  whence  the  railroad  is  continued  into  the  State  of 
New- York  through  the  Canaan  gap,  and  terminates  in  30 
miles  at  Hudson. 


Eastern  Coast  Route. 

Continutd  from  page  2^A. 

Andover  in  Essex  County,  Massachusetts,  has  a  population 
of  6,000,  and  is  20  miles  north  of  Boston,  16  from  Salem,  20 
from  Newburyport,  and  has  two  parishes,  the  northern  one 
being  first  rate  farms,  large  meadows  and  undulations  of 
much  beauty,  with  groves  scattered  and  disposed,  composing 
a  landscape  varied,  rich,  and  delightful,  and  is  thought  to  be 
one  of  the  best  farming  towns  in  Massachusetts.  South  An* 
dover  is  a  large  village  on  the  3hausheen  River  near  the  east- 
ern bank,  on  a  street  north  and  south  over  a  mile  long,  and 
has  a  number  of  manufacturing  establishments. 
w  The  unbounded  liberality  bestowed  by  the  Phillips'  family 
and  others,  in  founding  and  endowing  the  celebrated  acade- 
my in  this  place  and  in  Exeter,  and  the  Theological  Institu- 
tion here,  deserves  particular  notice.  In  1778,  the  Hon. 
Samuel  Phillips  and  the  Hon.  John  Phillips,  sons  of  the  Rev. 
Samuel  Phillips,  former  minister  of  Andover,  gave  141  acres 
of  land  in  this  place  and  200  acres  in  JafTrey,  New  Hamp- 
shire, and  $5,380;  the  land  to  be  let,  and  the  proceeds  invest- 
ed on  good  security,  and  the  profitit  for  ever  to  support  a  pub- 
lic free-tchool  or  academy  in  South  Andover.  In  1789,  the 
lirst  donor  again  gave  a  sum  of  $20,000,  and  one  third  of  the 
estate  at  his  death,  for  the  benefit  of  charily  scholars  of  supe- 
rior genius  and  good  moral  character,  pious,  and  for  the  aja^> 


u 


"^  Theolog-ical  Seminary  at  Andoter. ' 


m 


•iitance  of  ^outh  liberally  educated,  designed  and  stud/ing 
for  the  minigtry,  under  a  calviniKtic  teacher,  until  a  diviniiy 
professor  in  this  academy  or  £xeter  should  be  supported  ;  to 
this  last  fund,  the  Hon.  William  Phillips  gave  $4,000.  The 
plan  of  this  academy  was  drawn  by  the  Hon.  Samuel  Phil- 
lips, late  Lieutenant  Governor  of  Massachusetts,  when  only 
21  years  old ;  at  his  solicitations,  his  father  and  uncle  gave 
those  large  sums  that  founded  both  the  Andover  and  £xeter 
academies;  he  being  the  natural  and  rightful  heir,  and  an 
only  son,  and  his  uncle  had  no  child,  but  doated  on  this 
nephew,  and  iheret'ore  thegif't  may  be  so  considered  as  his. 

The  object  of  this  institution  is  instruction  in  the  English, 
Latin,  and  Greek  languages,  writing,  arithmetic,  music,  the 
art  of  speaking,  geometry,  logic,  geography,  and  such  other 
of  the  liberal  arts  and  sciences  or  languages  as  may  be  prac- 
ticable, and  the  trustees  shall  direct. 

To  extend  the  design  above,  last  alluded  to,  the  trustees  in 
1807  applied  for  and  received  a  charter,  to  receive  and  hold 
donations  for  a  Theological  Institution.  Immediately  after 
this  act,  Mrs.  Phoebe  Phillips,  relict,  and  the  Hon.  John  Phil- 
lips, son  of  Lieutenant  Governor  Phillips,  caused  two  build- 
ings to  be  erected,  with  rooms  for  50  students,  a  dining-hal), 
chapel,  and  lecture-room,  and  library,  and  room  for  the  stew> 
ards*  family,  and  a  kitchen. 

Samuel  Abbott,  of  Andover,  then  gave  $20,000 ;  Moses 
Brown,  $10,000;  William  Bartlett,  $20,000 ;  both  of  Newbu- 
ryport,  and  the  Hon.  John  Norris,  of  Salem,  $10,000;  all 
for  supporting  professors  of  Christian  Theology  and  students 
in  divmity,  as  the  statutes  direct;  Mr.  Abbott  and  Mr.  Bart- 
lett  reserving  to  themselves  each  the  nomination  of  a  profes- 
Kor.  A  Board  of  three  visiters  was  appointed  by  the  original 
and  associate  founders,  for  the  purpose  of  having  their  in- 
tentions fulfilled  ;  this  Board  elects  its  own  successors. 

The  Theological  Seminary  began  in  October,  1808,  under 
two  professors,  with  36  students — the  present  number  are  150, 
and  four  professors.  A  course  of  three  years  study  is 
required. 

The  buildings  of  the  Theological  Seminary  arc  situated 
on  a  hiil,  half  a  mile  east  of  the  village,  on  a  handsome 
xhaded  area,  commanding  a  fine  prospect ;  the  Divinity  Col- 
lege is  of  brick,  98  by  40,  four  stories  high ;  there  are  two  other 
«»iifices,  four  dwelling  houses  for  the  professors  and  officers, 
and  a  library  of  10,000  volumes.    >*   *if  i     i 


If  '■' 
',■■*  i' 
»-  ^  ■  ■ , 

it* 
5a 


^ri 


w 


HcwtrhUl'^Canali  on  the  Merrinuifit  ifc. 


The  entire  amount  given  from  first  to  the  present  time  is 
$360,000,  tty  six  families. 

Bradford  is  on  the  south  of  the  Merrimack,  between  Ando- 
ver  and  Haverhill,  on  the  same  pleasant  undulating  country 
as  North  Andover,  and  in  drawing  near  the  river,  are  a  suc- 
cession of  interesting  landscapes,  with  some  abrupt  and 
singular  hills  on  the  north-west;  the  land  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  ascending  gradually  with  variegated  eminences; 
the  town  of  Haverhill,  its  fine  bridges  over  the  Merrimac,  as 
seen  in  each  direction,  as  a  wide  and  really  imposing  river, 
forms  a  pleasing  combination. 

Haverhill  is  on  two  streets  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Merri« 
mac,  15  miles  west  of  Newburyport,  33  north  of  Boston,  34 
south-west  of  Portsmouth,  is  on  an  acclivity,  and  makes  a 
good  appearance.  One  street  ascends  from  the  bridge,  the 
other  runs  east  and  west  along  the  bank  of  the  river.  The 
bridge  is  864  feet  long  and  forma  a  noble  object.  There  are 
■even  bridges  over  the  Merrimac,  one  at  Essex,  Lower  Haver- 
hill, Upper  Haverhill,  Andover,  Dracut,  at  Patucket  Falls, 
Amoskeag  Falls,  and  Concord.  / 

Canal*  on  the  Merrimac — First,  two  miles  from  Concord, 
Turkey  Falls,  and  dam.  Bow  Canal,  one  mile,  west  side, 
dam,  450  feet  long,  10  feet  high ;  the  canal  560  feet  in  rock, 
30  feet  wide,  8  deep;  then  360  feet  across  a  gravelly  embank- 
ment, 12  feet  high  ;  then  a  rock  cut  320  feet,  16  deep,  12  wide ; 
then  2CX)  feet  to  the  three  locks,  with  falls  of  27  feet.  From 
the  Bow  Canal  to  Hookset  is  six  miles  to  the  island  dam,  &c. 
falls  17  feet,  two  locks.  From  Hookset  to  Amoskeag  is  eight 
miles  of  smooth  water.  The  canal  round  Amoskeag  Fails 
is  next  to  Middlesex  in  importance.  The  Union  Canal  is 
nine  miles  of  the  river,  with  six  falls  and  six  locks ;  then  is  five 
miles  to  Cromwell's  Falls;  then  15  miles  to  Wicassee  Canal, 
a  natural  passage  from  Tyng's  Island  to  North  Shore,  deep- 
ened and  improved,  with  lock  and  dams ;  then  three  miles  to 
Middlesex  Canal,  and  forming  with  that  a  chain  of  water 
communication  to  the  interior  of  New  Hampshire  for  150 
miles,  that  may  be  extended  to  Connecticut  River,  near  Wind- 
sor, Vermont,  by  the  north  branch  of  Contecook  River,  Suna- 
pee  Lake,  and  its  outlet  Sugar  Creek. 

Exeter,  New  Hampshire,  has  a  population  of  2,750,  and  is 
at  the  head  of  tide  near  the  falls  of  Squamscut  or  Exeter  Rivor, 
that  branches  from  Piscataqua,  14  miles  from  Portsmouth, 
up  to  a  ridge  of  rocks  where  the  tide  rises  11  feet.    Here  are 


--■K-r-  %":" 


Phillijpa*  jicadfmjf—RowUsjf'-Newburifport,  977^ 

aUo  manufactures,  grist,  saw,  oil,  chocolate,  fulling,  paper, 
snuiT,  and  slitting  mills,  and  a  furnace.  Granite  is  also 
worked.  v 

Phillip'i  Jcademy,  founded  in  1781,  with  funds  to  the 
amount  of  $80  00U  to  $100,000,  is  a  handsome  structure,  76 
feet  long,  30  broad,  wings  24  by  38,  with  ample  ground  at- 
tached, and  is  extensively  known  and  celebrated  for  many 
years,  as  having  produced  many  eminent  classical  scholars 
and  pious  men,  and  is  yet  eminently  prosperous  ;  has  seven 
trustees,  a  preceptor,  and  assistant,  and  80  to  100  students, 
part  are  aided  in  their  education  by  the  fund  left  by  thu  Hon. 
John  Pliillips.     The  site  is  low,  flat,  but  healthy. 

From  Haverhill  to  Kingston  is  rather  a  poor  country,  a 
pine  plain,  thin  soil.  The  road  from  Newburyport  to  Ports* 
rnoutn  is  nearar  the  coast. 

Rowley  is  noted  for  its  tanneries  and  shoe-making  to  the 
value  of  hnlf  a  million  of  dollars  a  year.  It  is  near  an  arm  of  the 
sea  between  Ipswich  and  Newburyport,  with  large  tracts  of 
salt  marsh,  and  includes  a  part  of  Plumb  Island.  Bald  PaU 
Hill,  392  feet  high,  is  the  most  elevated  land  in  Essex  Count]^. 
A  small  cut  through  the  salt  marshes  extends  from  the  Merri- 
roac  to  Hampton. 

Newburi/port  occupies  a  mile  in  length,  by  one  fourth  wide, 
is  on  the  south  bank,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Merrimac  River, 
and  is  one  of  the  handsomest  towns  in  the  Eastern  States^  having 
tufTtircd  from  several  awful  conflagrations,  and  been  rebuilt 
with  improved  beauty  ;  it  is  on  a  gentle  declivity  facing  the 
north-east — has  a  population  of  6,000  to  7,0(J0  ;  three  banks, 
capital  $700,000,  an  insurance  company  of  $200,000,  six 
churches,  Presbyterian,  a  court-liouse,  jail,  four  school-houses. 
It  is  engaged  in  the  whaling  and  fisliing  business,  and  has  a 
tonnage  of  20,000.  Combs  are  here  made  in  large  quantities. 
Distance,  34  miles  northeasr,  of  Boston,  20  of  Salem,  24  from 
Portsmouth,  and  two  miles  south- east  of  F.ssex  Bridge,  1,030 
feetloni^,  leading  across  the  Merrimac  to  Salisbury,  Hampton 
Falls,  Hampton,  and  Portsmouth.  During  the  American  Re- 
volution, ships  of  war  were  built  here,  and  at  Salisbury,  the  At- 
liancCj  so  celebrated  under  Paul  Jones.  The  hotel  at  Essex 
Bridge,  its  grove  of  pines,  group  of  islands,  and  the  surround- 
ing scenery,  make  it  a  favorite  place  of  resort, 

Jacob  Perkins,  the  ingenious  mechanician  and  engineer, 
engraver,  ^c.  hails  from  this  place. 
The  view,  from  one  of  the  elevated  spires,  of  the  interior 

24 


^-R 


M 


Balitburj/'^Ametbury^Portitnouth*     ' 


,  and  coast  scenery  Rhould  be  seen  if  practicable,  reaching 
from  Cape  Aim  on  the  Houih,  to  the  lele  of  Shoals  on  tho 
north-east,  and  a  long,  low,  fantastical  sand  beach  skirting 
the  Bca-coast  for  10  miles,  and  looking  down  on  tho  gardens 
and  elegant  residences  beneath  the  spectator.  The  mountain 
called  Agamcnticus  bounds  the  landscape  on  the  north. 

Salisburtf,  three  miios  north  of  Newburyport,  has  two  vil- 
Ingea,  Webster's  Point,  near  the  sea-shore,  and  the  upper 
village,  connected  witii  Amesbury,  with  the  Pawaw  River 

^  between.  It  is  united  to  Newbury  and  Newburyport  by  a 
couple  of  elegant  and  substantial  bridges.  Saiisburi/  Beach, 
un  the  Atlantic  sea-shore,  is  much  resorted  io  in  summer. 
The  manufactory  of  flannels  here  employs  500  persons,  and 
a  capital  of  half  a  million,  and  produces  annually  about  two 
millions  of  yards — a  tannery,  carding  and  fulling-mill,  and 

*;  candle  factory  also  are  here-  population  2,600. 

Amtnbury  is  seven  miles  north-east  of  Haverhill,  40  from 
Boston,  six  from  Newburyport ;  is  on  the  north  side  of  Merri- 
mac,  and  has  a  population  of  2,600,  the  most  of  them  being 
employed  in  manufactures,  that  of  flannel  being  the  chief; 
also  satinet,  carriages,  and  ships.  An  area  of  1,000  acres,  co- 

:  vereU  with  water,  near  the  town,  and  90  feet  above  tide,  gives 
a  fall  and  the  requisite  power  to  its  machinery.  From  Exeter 

(through  Stratham  and  Greenland  for  the  tirst  10  miles,  is  a 

4  aeries  of  beautiful  hills  and  vales,  with  a  good  road,  rich  soil, 
and  pleasant  scenery  ;  from  thence  to  the  Piscataqua  Bridge  is 
repulsive,  unanimated,  barren  ;  the  bridge  is  2,600  ft;el  long, 
and  with  its  auxiliary  features  of  islets,  rock  arches,  &c. 

i  stretching  over  the  river,  connects  the  east  and  west  shores 
of  the  river  by  a  road  from  Portsmouth,  leading  to  Concord 
and  the  interior  of  the  State.  This  arm  of  the  seoj  from  a 
half  to  three  miles  wide,  is  seen  for  a  lung  distance,  and  is  of 
irregular  form,  receiving  from  tho  north-east,  north-west,  and 
south-west,  several  small  streams,  the  Salmon,  Cocheco, 
Lamprey,  Squamscut,  Winnicut,  and  others,  that  are  received 
into  this  salt  water  lake,  that  has  scooped  out  a  deep  bed  with 
the  aid  of  tides  and  floods,  trending  in  a  direction  south-west 

i  to  north-east,  and  from  north-west  passing  Portsmouth  to 
the  south-east,  forming  its  capital  harbor,  including  some 
islands,  with  a  fort  and  light-house,  and  the  town  of  New 
Castle. 

Portsmouth^  the  only  sea-port  in  New  Hampshire,  has  8,500 
inhiibitants,  two  Preibyterian,  one  Episcopal,  one  Baptist, 


*•!«**??  y«r*— K«lilK*t<»*.     *** 


Hi": 


one  Univorialist,  one  Independent,  one  Sandeminian  Church- 
ei,  and  an  Athenonm;  and  occupies  a  handsome  pcninauia 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Piscataqua,  connected  with  the  main  by 
nn  isthmus,  and  with  Kiltery,  in  Maine,  by  two  bridges  on  the 
north.  In  December,  1813,  a  fire  here  destroyed  400  wooden 
hnuHes ;  brick  ones  have  taken  their  place.  The  harbor  is  deep, 
Mfo,  and  never  frefzes,  from  its  high  and  strong  tides.  A 
navy  yard  is  here,  also  a  handsome  market,  and  a  town 
hall,  occupying  the  second  story.  The  shipping  and  fishing 
vessels  are  the  principal  sources  of  employment.  Distant 
24  miles  from  Newburyport,  56  from  Boston,  54  from  Port- 
land. Sir  Ferdinando  Gorges  and  Capt.  John  Mason,  be- 
gan the  settlement  in  1623. 

From  Portsmouth  wo  cross  the  Piscataqua  to  Kittery  in 
Maine,  and  proceed  onward,  in  proximity  to  the  sca-coast, 
through  York,  Wells,  Kennebunk,  Arundel,  Biddeford,  across 
the  Saco  River  to  Sacoand  Portland.  The  Saco  River,  coming 
(rom  the  White  Mountains,  sixty  miles  north  west,  has  been 
noticed  before,  at  its  source  in  the  iXotch,  {see  page  241.) 
The  marine  views  along  the  coast  of  Maine  must  be  emi- 
nently gratifying,  though  from  Kittery  to  York  it  is  stony, 
bleak,  and  naked  of  trees. 

Yorkf  that  is  a  quiet  place  as  to  trade,  is  on  an  arm  of  the 
tea,  spanned  by  a  bridge  of  270  feet,  and  that  it  is  healthy, 
the  fact  that  one  in  seven  that  die  are  of  the  age  of  70  years 
and  more,  and  that  many  reach  near  100,  must  be  considered 
as  important.  The  Rev.  S.  Moody  began  his  ministry  in  the 
first  parish  in  1700,  and  died  in  1748,  and  was  succeeded  by 
Rev.  Isaac  Lyman,  who  retained  it  sixty  years.  In  1692,  the 
savages  and  French  invaded  this  place,  killed  75  persons, 
and  burnt  all  the  houses  except  four  that  were  garrisoned. 
IVells'  township  extends  10  mites  along  the  coast,  and  includes 
Bald  Head,  a  prominent  foreland,  and  the  JVells^  Rock.  Much 
of  the  face  of  the  country  is  a  continued  plain,  with  scattered 
l)ou$e«>  along  the  road,  only  relieved  by  occasional  glimpses 
of  the  majestic  ocean.  The  northern  portion  of  the  road  is  on 
a  (iandy,  unproductive  plain,  with  the  yellow  pine  as  its  only 
occupants. 

Kennebunk  is  reached  by  crossing  the  bridge  over  Mousun 
River,  a  small  stream  heading  in  small  lakes  near  the  Lake 
Winnipiseogee.  In  1692  it  was  attacked  by  the  same  infuria- 
ted bands  of  savage  French  and  Indian  demons  under  Mocke* 
wando  and  Labrgozee  that  destroyed  York,  and  after  fighting 


..j#-. 


'r%'  * 


1^ 


|..'i , 


280 


Saeo — Portland  Sanery. 


two  dayf,  the  enemy  retired  from  the  bold  defence  mnde  by 
the  brave  inhabitnnts.  This  ii  quite  a  lively  place — has  a 
population  of  2,500,  a  church,  and  a  compact  village  sur- 
rounding. 

Arundel,  or  Cape  Porpoise,  is  the  next  settlerncnt,  and 
from  Kennebunk  to  Biddeford  all  is  desolate,  cold,  nnd 
barren,  amid  stinted  pines  and  rocky  roads,  with  squalid  hutn 
inhabited  by  fishermen. 

Saco,  or  Pepperelborough,  on  the  cast,  and  Biddeford  on  the 
west  of  the  mouth  of  tho  Kiver  Saco,  is  five  milus  from  the 
Atlantic.  A  bridge  extendji  from  each  side  of  the  river  to  an 
island  ;  at  a  short  distance  above  a  ridge  of  rocks  crosoes  the 
Saco,  and  produces  a  cataract  of  40  feet,  winding  and  foaming 
down  its  tortuous  channels  with  much  violence,  noise,  and 
grandeur,  and  furnishing  fine  power  for  the  saw-mills  here 
established  at  the  head  of  navigation  for  sea  vessels.  Salmon 
and  shad,  in  their  season,  are  here  caught.  The  Pool  is  a 
good  harbor  on  the  west  side,  near  the  river's  mouth. 

Portland  is  115  miles  from  Boston,  54  from  Portsmouth, 
and  is  on  a  peninsula  that  has  been  likened  to  a  saddle  in  its 
appearance,  enabling  the  inhabitants  to  overlook  the  harbor 
and  distant  panorama  of  ocean  and  land.  The  harbor  is  capa- 
cious and  of  easy  entrance,  and  seldom  frozen.  There  are 
six  banks,  one  insurance  ofBce,  a  custom  and  court  houfie,  a 
library,  academv,  schools,  &c.  There  are  handsome  private 
and  public  edifices;  its  tonnage  about  60,000;  two  forts, 
Preble  and  Scammeli  defend  the  harbor;  a  bridge  extends  to 
the  main.  The  place  dates  its  origin  from  1670,  and  was 
assailed  by  the  Acadian  French  and  Indians  in  1689,  and 
ruthlessly  destroyed  in  October,  1776,  by  a  British  vandal 
who  wag  in  command  of  a  few  vessels. 


Fortlan4l   Scenery. 


A- 


The  scenery  in  and  around  Portland,  for  variety,  beauty, 
and  extent,  exceeds  every  view  of  the  class  in  the  United 
States.  The  town  itself,  built  in  a  neat  and  tasty  manner, 
containing  l!2,000  inhabitants  and  10  churches,  stands  on  a 
narrow  peninsula  that  rises  to  a  high  bluff  sea- ward,  with 
a  deep  bay  and  wooded  shores  on  either  side.  From  the 
signal  tower  and  observatory,  built  on  the  highest  point 


wmm 


Portland  Scenery^Bruntwiek. 


sal 


of  the  peninRulfl,  the  view  is  superb,  nnd  extends  to  the 
westward  and  north-east  from  (ho  misty  forms  of  the  While 
IMountainj),  dietant  60  mites  in  the  interior,  to  the  light- 
house at  the  entrance  of  the  Kennebeck,  36  miles  ucruss 
Cb:*co  Bay.  The  surface  of  the  latter,  timt  forms  the  outer 
harbor,  nppnars  spotted  and  broken  up  into  a  labyrinth  of 
lak^s  and  islands  clothed  with  wood,  of  which  between  300 
and  400  lie  between  Portland  and  the  Kennebeck  of  all 
shapes  and  uizes,  from  a  rocky  islet  to  those  of  10  or  12  miles 
in  circumference.  The  nearer  islands,  with  their  pretty  shores 
and  forests,  enclosing  the  sheltered  roadstead  and  the  va- 
rious passages  between  them,  the  little  forts  and  light- 
house, and  the  shipping  passing;  in  or  out,  form  a  lovely  mid- 
die  ground  to  the  eastward,  and  over  them  expands  the  even 
sea-line  of  the  blue  Atlantic.  Vessels  are  descried  at  the  dis- 
tance of  20  miles  from  the  port,  the  elevation  of  the  gallery  of 
the  obi^ervatory  being  237  feet  above  the  sea.  The  view  in* 
land  is  also  verdant,  varied,  and  extensive ;  comprising  a  wide 
expanse  of  forest  and  open  land,  interspersed  by  many  vil- 
lages and  farms.  The  Kennebec  is  a  beautiful  stream,  whose 
banks,  like  that  of  its  rival  to  the  eastward,  the  Penobscot,  are 
adorned  with  many  flourishing  towns. 

A  short  canal  connects  Portland  with  Sebago  Lake  nnd 
Its  smaller  branches  or  satellites,  and  it  cannot  be  long  before 
the  rail-road  from  Boston  to  Saloni,  Lynn,  Newbury  port,  and 
Porti>mouih,  will  be  extended  al  Uifist  as  tar  as  Portland,  and 
he  united  with  the  great  Kennebeck  and  Quebec  rad  road, 
thus  completing  an  immense  chain  of  rapid  communication 
between  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico — 
that  might  easily  be  traversed  in  five  to  seven  days,  and  with 
very  little  fatigue  and  loss  of  rest. 

From  Portland  via  North  Yarmouth  and  Freeport  to 
Brunswick,  and  across  the  bridges  to  Tophara,  on  the  An- 
droscoggin, is  26  miles,  following  the  road  along  the  west 
sideofCasco  Bay;  from  thence  to  Augusta  on  the  Kenne- 
beck, is  30  miles  via  Bowdoinham,  Richmond,  Gardiner,  and 
Hallovvel ;  from  Augusta,  through  Norridgewock  to  Anson, 
is 50  milns  ,  from  Augusta  to  Belfast  on  the  Penobscot  is  41 
miles,  or  from  Augusta  to  Bangor  direct,  via  Vassal boro, 
China,  Altnon,  Unity,  Troy,  Dixnonl,  Newburg,  Hampden, 
is  67  miles. 

Brunswick  contains  4,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  seat  of 
^owdoin  College,  apd  one  of  its  professors  (Cleveland)  pub- 

24* 


284 


Augunia — Thomaaton*  i-'i''^<»'^ 


lished  the  best  work  on  mineralogy  in  this  country.  It  is 
possessed  of  some  trade,  nnd  its  wuter-power  from  the  falls 
on  the  Androscogg:in,  aid  the  mill  and  factories. 

Augusta,  on  the  Kennebeck,  is  the  seat  of  the  State  govern- 
ment ;  has  a  court  house,  jail,  and  an  elegant  bridge  over 
the  Kennebeck,  of  two  arches,  each  of  a  span  of  180  feel,  and 
to  this  point  the  river  is  navigable. 

By  the  loiotr  road,  along  the  coast,  from  Brunswick  to 
Bath,  is  eight  miles;  thence  acioss  the  Kennebeck  to  Wool- 
wich, five  miles;  thence  to  VViscasset,  eipht  miles,  across 
two  arms  of  the  sea,  with  the  Sheepscui  River  on  the  east 
forming  its  large,  deep,  and  excellent  harbor,  enclosing 
several  considerable  islands.  ? 

From  VViscasset  stages  run  around  the  head  of  Sheepscut 
Bay  via  New  Castle,  12,  fmd  over  the  bridge  at  Damariscutta 
River,  (another  of  the  deep  inlets  extending  to  (he  north  from 
the  Atlantic  Ocean  for  30  miles,)  to  Waidoboro,  nine  miles  on 
the  Muscongus  River  and  bay;  ihence  in  five  miles  and 
across  the  S(.  Geor-^fe's  River  to  Warren ;  thence  to  Tho- 
maston  eight  on  ihe  Penobscot  Bay. 

Phippsburg.  Georgetown,  Edgecomb,  Booth  Bay,  Bristol, 
Friendship,  Gushing,  &ic.  occupy  positions  nearer  the  coast, 
south  of  the  stage  route  on  dilTerepi  points  of  the  peninsnlas 
jiitting  into  the  Allantir;  and  nothing  c:in  be  more  grand  and 
picturesque  than  some  of  the  marine  views  presented  from  nu- 
merous elevated  positions  along  this  entire  coast,  so  strikingly 
different  in  its  outlines  from  that  prevalent  from  Long  Island, 
along  the  southern  coast,  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

Thomaslon  has  a  population  of  4,500,  and  a  Congrega- 
tional and  Baptist  Church,  and  is  noti'd  for  the  vast  exports 
of  lime,  to  the  amount  of  200,000  or  8(»0,000  barrels  a  year, 
produced  in  part  from  the  convict  labor  in  the  Stale  Prison 
here  established,  ihat  is  built  of  granite,  and  is  surrounded 
by  a  yard  enclosing  several  acres,  including  the  lime  qnorry. 
It  is  190  miles  north  eai*!  of  Boston,  30  miles  south  of  Bel- 
fast, and  60  from  Bangor.  Casline  is  on  the  east  side  of 
Penobscot  Bay,  opposite  Belfast,  12  miles  across,  or  35  by 
land  round  the  head  of  the  bay. 

The  road  up  the  Pencl^scot  on  its  west  shore,  from  The- 
maston  to  Bangor,  via  Camden,  Lincolnville,  Nor.hport,  to 
Belfast,  yields  some  fine  views  of  the  bay  and  islands,  and  of 
the  interior.  Belfast  is  a  place  of  trade,  with  a  population  of 
3,000,  and  is  at  the  upper  extremity  of  an  arm  of  Penobscot 
Bay  on  the  north-west. 


Bangor^  White  Mouniaint  of  New  Hampshire.        2S3 


It  is 
fails 


Bingor,  since  the  mania  for  speculations  in  wild  pine  lands 
in  183>  and  ISSQ,  and  the  Aroo»<tock  war,  relative  to  the 
divsputed  boundary  with  New  Brunswick  in  1838-9,  has  at-' 
tracted  public  notice  to  its  ituation  on  the  west  hauk  of  the 
Penobscot,  and  the  north  of  the  Kendnskeag  River,  at  the 
head  of  tide  and  navigation,  35  mdes  from  Cusline,  five 
above  Hampden,  on  the  Sowadubrook,  and  \'2  above  Frank- 
fort; to  the  last  place  only  can  vessels  a&cend  in  winter. 
Bangor  hH^  a  population  01*5,000,  and  one  of  the  best  hotels 
in  I  he  country. 

In  the  entire  route  through  the  Eastern  States,  the  best  of 
accornmojationi^  !nay  be  safely  relied  upon,  and  the  charges 
and  expenses  of  every  description,  modei'atc  as  could  be  de- 
sired or  expected.  ..  t- 

Wbite   mountains  of  IVc^v  IInnipsliire->- 
the  Notch— Profile  mountain.  &c. 

[,   .     {See  also  page  2ii.)    ,,,,...  ,j-r,,-  ;^^.,,/* 


■m?^. 


-S.'V  ■ 


The  Profile  Mountain  is  near  the  road  leadin£r  from  Frcm- 
conia  by  the  foot  of  the  Haystack  Mountain  to  Plymouth  and 
Concord,  five  miles  from  the  lower  iron  workM  in  Franconia, 
and  about  three  miles  south  of  \1ount  La  Fayette.  The  ele- 
vation of  this  mountain  is  aboiit  1,GOO  feet.  The  road  passes 
very  near  ite  foot,  and  the  mountam  rises  abruptly  at  an 
angle  of  80°  to  the  profile  rock.  The  bare  rock  on  which 
tlie  profile  is  delineated  is  jgranite,  and  having  been  long  ex- 
posed to  the  atmosphere,  its  color  is  a  dark  reddiish  brown. 
A  side  view  of  the  projecting  rock,  near  the  peak  of  the 
mountain  in  a  northern  direction,  exhibits  the  profile  of  the 
human  face,  in  which  every  line  and  feature  are  conspicuous. 
But  after  passing  the  mountain  to  the  eocih,  the  likeness  ii 
immed  lately  lost.  :  ^.-.l     . 

The  White  Mountain  range  passes  through  the  eastern 
part  of  Franconia,  and  presents  numerous  elevations  and 
Bublimc  mountain  scenery.  Mount  La  Fayette,  that  forms 
the  northern  boundary  of  the  Notch,  is  4,000  fee|  in  height. 

The  White  Mountains  and  lakes  of  New  Hampshire,  and 
the  numerous  lakes  and  rivers  of  the  State  oi' Maine,  and  the 
ocean  inlets  that  deeply  indent  the  coast,  are  the  boldest  fea- 
tures in  the  topography  of  this  portion  of  the  United  Statei, 
and  are  worthy  of  a  visit  ia  the  warm  teatoo  inttrveniog  be- 
tween May  and  October. 


'I  ( 


284 


White  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire, 


That  region  is  easily  approached  from  New-York  via  Bos. 
ton,  and  thence  north-east  to  Salem,  Portland,  Bangor,  and 
by  cars,  stages,  or  stean^i-boatp,  or  by  ascending  the  charming 
vale  of  Connecticut  River  by  steam- boat  to  Hartford,  and 
from  thence  by  cars  or  stage,  (or  200  miles  north  to  the 
Ammonoosuck  River,  and  along  that  stream  to  the  Nolcli,  and 
descending  along  the  Saco  to  Conway,  and  thence  to  JPor/- 
land,  Bath,  Belfast,  and  Bangor;  or  r^-lurn  to  Boston  via 
Portland  and  Portsmouth,  Newbury  Port;  or  go  by  stage 
one  hundred  miles  easterly  to  Calais,  Robbin's  Town,  and  St. 
Andrews,  at  the  left  bank  of  the  St.  Croix  River,  at  the  head 
of  Passamaquoddy  Fay  ^  and  thence  70 miles  to  St.John^Sj  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river  of  that  name,  or  along  the  lower 
road  from  Belfast  or  Casline,  to  Machias,  Lubec,  a  busy  mart 
of  trade  on  the  main  land,  Cast  Port  being  on  an  islaid  four 
miles  east-north  east,  and  £Ja5{  Port,  tho  uU>m.i  l hi  of  the 
United  Stales  on  the  north-east  border;  and  L,  ?...\.  »o  St. 
John*.s  by  the  coasting  vessels,  or  through  the  British  Pro- 
vince of  New  Brunswick  from  St.  Andrews,  as  before  men- 
tioned. 

If  time  admits,  we  would  recommend  an  extension  of  the 
jaunt  to  E»atport  and  Passamaquoddy  Bay  and  St.  John's, 
at  the  entrance  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  where  the  phenomena 
oftlie  enormous  rise  and  fall  of  the  tides  that  characterise 
that  part  of  the  coast,  to  »  curious  or  philosophic  mind,  will 
bo  a  source  of  unusual  interest  and  reflection.  The  solitary 
island  of  Grand  Menan,  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
Bay  of  Fandy,  is  an  immense  rocky  bulwark  presenting  it- 
self boldly,  just  beyond  tiie  eastern  extremity  of  Maine,  to 
receive  the  rude  assaults  of  the  Atlantic. 

The  whole  interior  of  Maine  is  one  immense  wilderness  •'  ■ 
lakes  of  every  size,  and  noble  forests  of  pine  and  maple;  a: 
course  it  will  require  the  further  attraction  ofgood  roads  and 
hotels  to  be  plentifully  interspersed  throughout  this  wilder- 
ness before  the  course  of  fashionable  summer  travel  can  be 
drawn  far  from  the  coast  or  the  general  range  of  the  White 
Mountains,  and  the  nearest  lakes  to  their  ba.se,  Winnioiseo- 
gee,  Sebago,  and  others.  Steam  boats  run  frequently  be- 
tween Boston,  Portland,  and  other  towns  further  east  on  the 
coast  of  Maine  to  Belfast,  Bangor,  &c.  by  which  a  rapi '  'ex- 
cursion may  be  made  to  the  most  remote  points  in  the  -  ih- 
•ast  part  of  the  United  States,  and  to  the  British  possesc>>:<  -t 
of  New  Brunswick  and  Nova  Scotia,via  St.  John's  and  Halifax. 


m.mm 


Chaudiere  Valley  Scenery. 


285 


to 


f. 


Mount  Katahden,  in  Penobscot  County,  in  Maine,  is  about 
5,000  feet  high,  and  is  the  most  elevated  point  in  that  State  ; 
and  Mooaehead  and  Chenqunkook  Lakes,  in  the  adjoining- 
county  of  Somerset,  are  considerable  bodies  of  water,  form- 
ing the  sources  of  the  Kennebeck  and  Penobscot  Rivers. 

All  these  numerous  lakes,  both  great  and  small,  abound  in 
fine  trout,  and  other  fish  in  abundance,  as  also  do  most  of  the 
pure  mountain  streams  of  this  elevated  region  ;  and  this  alone 
would,  to  the  votaries  of  angling,  and  the  enthusiastic  disci- 
ples of  old  Isaac  Walton,  be  inducement  sufficient  to  warrant 
an  excursion  to  those  parts,  fully  prepared  with  the  requisite 
apparatus. 

Guides,  boats,  and  canoes  can  readily  be  procured  on  the 
spot  for  trips  of  this  description,  that,  to  give  u  further  zest  to 
the  intrepid  and  enterprising  explorer,  have  hitherto  been  so 
little  known  or  frequented. 

A  good  road  extends  from  Brunswick  and  Bath,  near  Cas- 
co  Bay,  north,  along  tho  Androscoggin  River  fur  80  miles  or 
more,  to  Phillips,  in  the  south-west  part  of  the  County  of 
Someriiet,  and  also  along  the  Kennebeck  River  to  Augusta 
and  Norridgewock  and  Anson  to  Moose  River,  and  the  tribu- 
tary waters  of  Moosekead  Lake,  and  from  thence  over  the 
dividing  ridge  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Chaudiere  River, 
and  along  side  of  that  stream  to  the  <S^.  Lawrence  River 
and  Q,uebec. 

The  fore«joing  extended  route  through  Maine  and  Lower 
Canada  is  the  probable  route  of  the  prcjected  rail-road  be- 
tween those  extremes,  and  has  been  surveyed  and  pronounced 
upon  favorably — and  if  matured,  will  become  the  ^r^nt  tho- 
roughfare between  the  lower  British  Province  and  the  north- 
east part  of  the  United  States. 

The  Chaudiere  Valley  Scenery,  and  new 
route  to  Quebec* 

From  Anson  is  five  days*  travel  to  Qu' bee— first  towards 
tht  sources  of  the  Kennebec  and  Penobscot,  and  then  over 
the  mountains,  forming  the  frontier  to  the  valley  of  La 
Cnaudiere,  a  tributary  of  the  St.  Lawrence — the  route  fol- 
lowed by  General  Arnold  in  his  campaign  against  Quebec 
in  the  revolutionary  war.     As  we  approach  the  frontier, 


Tfr^ 


urn 


S86 


Chaudiere  Valley  Scenery.  '  fi 


the  country  becomes  more  mountninous ;  densely  forested 
at  times  with  birch,  pine,  maple,  and  beech,  and  ahoimd- 
ing,  in  common  with  the  whole  of  the  northern  States,  with 
pondit  and  lakes.  The  frontier  line  runs  here  over  a  range  of 
mountains  of  medium  height,  and  a  few  hours  of  further 
travel  brings  you  to  the  *' head- waters"  of  I. a  Chaudiere. 
Thbt  fine  pastoral  stream  runs  for  50  miles  hrough  what 
may  be  called  a  continued  villa|g;e;  so  numerous  are  the  little 
farms  that  border  the  line  of  wood,  and  thicken  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  various  parish  churches.  The  fields  are  extremely 
narrow,  separated  by  fences,  and  run  up  from  the  river  bank 
far  into  the  country.  The  inhabitants  of  these  valleys  are 
n^^^h  in  the  same  condition,  both  moral  and  political,  as  they 
wt .         .  he  days  of  French  rule. 

Nc  g  can  be  more  striking  than  the  difference  of  the 
customs,  manners,  un<l  the  appearance  of  the  population  uii 
either  side  of  the  boundary.  To  the  north,  a  savor  of  an- 
cient simplicity  and  lazy  contentment  is  remarke<l,  that  con- 
trasts drolly  with  the  busy  speculative  deportment  and  brisk 
movement  of  their  neighbors  of  the  United  Slates.  Yon 
seem  to  have  dropped  from  the  top  of  the  hills  into  the  old 
world.  An  air  of  repose  reigns  in  the  landscape.  There 
is  an  aspect  of  quiet  contentment,  and  the  tracts  of  un« 
cleared  and  unappropriated  land  in  the  vale,  indicate  another 
state  of  things.  You  proceed  hour  after  hour  without  see- 
ing a  newly  constructed  house.  Crucifixes  are  reared  at 
the  roadside;  pretty  white- washed  chu.ches  after  the  true 
French  model — with  plainly  tinned  roofs  and   steeples,  and 


faded  interiors,  appear 


rismg  ove» 


the  grey  roofs  of  the 


village. 

The  gait  and  demeanor  of  the  peasantry  of  both  sexes — their 
language  and  costume — that  retain  much  of  their  French  uni- 
formity and  coloring — the  unfeigned  politeness  of  the  people 
to  one  another  and  to  the  passenger — the  constant  salutations 
that  you  are  invited  to  return — the  rovvs  of  neat  little  cot- 
tages, enc'osed  by  walls  like  dri/en  snow — conveniently  situ- 
ated with  respect  to  one  another,  so  that  daily  compliments 
and  gossip  may  reign  unbroken  along  the  whole  line — the 
orchards  and  little  strips  of  gardens,  often  but  the  breadth 
of  the  house,  and  a  couple  of  yards  across,  full  of  roses,  violeis 
and  pinks,  lying  sheltered  from  the  north-casf  wind — the 
cheerful-looking  girls  tripping  to  mass  with  a  flower  com- 
pressed between  the   folded  pocket  handkerchief  and  the 


'.(, 


Distant  View  of  Quebec, 


^IPf 


prayer-book.  Thege  and  a  thousand  other  details  remind 
the  traveler  of  the  field*  of  France.  There  you  have  an 
idea  of  the  general  appearance  of  the  vilJHgcs  and  scenes  of 
Lower  Canada,  both  up  and  down  the  St.  Lawrence  and  in 
the  converginjr  valleys  under  long  cultivalien. 

From  the  cres  of  ihe  ridge  forming  the  frontier,  you  gain  a 
glimpse  of  ihe  Montmorenci  Mountains,  60  miles  distant, 
though  they  are  subsequently  lost  sight  of  until  within  30 
miles  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  when  they  begin  to  form  a  promi- 
nent feature  in  the  landscape.  Advancing  from  the  south 
you  see  nothing  of  the  river  till  you  are  close  upon  it,  and 
then  the  view  that  bursts  upon  you  is  one  of  the  most  en- 
chanting you  can  conceive.  ^ - 

You  gain  the  brink  of  the  deep  ravine  down  which  that 
mighty  flood  glides  towards  the  yet  distant  ocean,  and  at 
once  Cape  Diamond,  the  city  of  Quebec,  the  port  and  river 
above  and  below,  with  the  distant  mountains,  and  wide  slope 
of  beautiful  country  sweeping  up  to  their  base,  open  before 
you. 

Your  first  glance  will  hardly  enable  you  to  realize  the  vast 
proportions  of  the  river  gliding  at  your  feet,  so  well  is  the 
great  breadth  supported  by  the  height  of  the  wooded  banks, 
that  arise  on  both  sides  nearly  perpendicular  from  the  mar- 
gin. The  sight  of  the  fortress,  the  Ehrenbreitstein  of  the 
west,  will  hardly  aid  you,  for  its  proportions  are  also  colossal ; 
and  it  is  not  till  you  look  to  the  detail ;  the  numerous  vessels 
ofall  burdens,  crowded  round  the  foot  of  the  promontory,  and 
spotting  the  water  far  and  near;  the  city  surrounded  by  its 
walls;  its  churches,  convents,  and  public  buildings,  and 
the  distant  fields  and  villages,  that  you  conceive  the  true 
sublimity  of  the  scene  before  you.  The  beauty  of  the  wide 
tract  of  country  lying  beyond  the  city,  with  its  thousand 
farms  and  villages;  the  appearance  of  the  long  line  of  white 
cottages  stretching  down  the  shores  right  and  left,  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach  ;  the  aspect  of  Orleans  Island  lying  in  mid- 
channei  a  few  miles  below  the  city,  and  of  the  double  range 
of  Montmorenci  Mountains,  coursing  obliquely  to  the  course 
of  the  river,  till  30  miles  below  the  city,  when  they  terminate 
in  the  bold  promontory  of  Cape  Tourment,  can  only  be  con- 
ceived by  those  who  have  gazed  upon  this  landscape. 

Near  Lubec  and  Eastporl  veins  of  lead  occur,  extending 
up  for  some  distance  from  the  water  ;  they  are  from  one  to 
six  feet  in  thickness,  of  the  crystalline  mineral  character. 


i'   * 


288       'Scenery  of  St.  Jphn**  River y New  Bruntvoick. 

Zinc  also  ishore  found  in  abundance,  and  specular  iron.  Piai* 
terof  Paris  sells  at  the  quarries  in  Nova  Scotia  nt  70  cents  per 
ton;  1,800  vessels  loaded  with  it,  averaging  100  Ions  eacht 
arrived  at  £astport  in  one  year.  ,  -; ' 

<S^  John%  in  New  Brunswick,  is  70  miles  from  Eastport, 
passing  Dead  Man's  Head  Point,  Laprcau,  and  the  Mahogany 
Islands.  The  falls  at  tho  mouth  of  the  St.  John's  are  a  curi- 
osity. A  reef  of  rucks  extending  across  the  river  is  covered 
nt  high  water  deep  enough  to  admit  vessels  of  all  kinds,  steam- 
boats, &.C.  to  pass  over,  and  penetrate  90  miles  in  the  interior ; 
this  is  the  critical  moment  to  be  embraced,  for  when  the  tide 
begins  to  fall,  a  slight  break  or  ripple  begins  at  the  narrows, 
that  increases  as  the  tide  falls,  until  the  entire  winding  rocky 
chasm  is  exposed  one-fourth  of  a  mile  in  width,  through  which 
the  mighty  torrent  of  the  great  St.  John's  river  pours  in  all  its 
force  for  several  hours,  until  the  rise  of  the  next  tide,  when 
for  a  similar  period  vessels  ascend  as  before. 

The  population  of  St.  John^s  is  13,000 ;  it  stands  on  a  rocky 
bluffofi^rey-wacke  slate,  that  rises  from  the  north-east  extre- 
mity of  tbe  harbor. 


Scenery  of  llic  St*    Jobn's  River, 

BruDSivick* 


New 


Prot«-eding  from  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  in  a  northerly  direction, 
up  the  St.  John's  we  arrive  in  a  few  miles  at  the  falls  that 
form  the  barrier  to  the  further  progress  up  the  river  of  large 
vessels,  excepting  at  the  top  of  high  tide,  though  above  tbi^ 
obstruction  the  river  is  navigable  for  steam-boats  90  miles,  to 
Frederickton.  A  new  and  excellent  road,  of  64  miles  in 
length,  on  >e  west  side  of  the  river,  also  connects  St.  John's 
and  Fredericton. 

Crossing  the  narrow  neck  of  land  that  intervenes  between 
the  harbor  below  the  falls  and  the  steam-boat  wharf  above, 
at  Indian  Town,  the  traveler  will  find  a  new  and  convenient 
steamer  at  the  appointed  hour  in  waiting,  and  will  here 
commence  his  trip  by  the  boats,  entering  upon  the  deep  and 
tranquil  waters  of  the  St.  John's,  that  here  glide  sidoothly  to 
the  very  edge  of  the  cataract,  a  short  distance ;  we  next  pass 
through  a  narrow  channel,  with  rugged,  bold,  and  lofty  banks, 
cftiting  tbfir  dark  shadows  over  th«  river,  aiid  emerging  from 


Setnery  of  (he  St.  John' 9  River,  New  Bruruudck.        289 

this,  the  river  in  a  few  miles  expands  into  Grand  Bay.  The 
shores  are  here  less  elevated,  and  have  a  more  cultivateu  as- 
pect, and  the  settlements  relieve  the  eye  from  the  monotony 
of  the  wilderness,  and  soon  the  Kennebeckeis  from  the  right 
unites  with  the  St.  John^s.  It  is  a  considerable  stream,  navi* 
gable  for  sloops  40  or  50  mite? ;  its  banks  are  well  seitled, 
and  there  are  some  quarries  of  plaster  of  Paris  in  the  valley 
through  which  it  tlows. 

The  residence  of  General  Coffin,  on  the  left  as  vou  proceed, 
if  attractive  from  its  neatness,  standing  on  a  sloping  bank, 
with  the  grounds  around  judiciously  laid  out,  and  clumps 
of  trees  and  shrubbery  allowed  to  remain  in  all  their  natural 
beauty,  thus  forming  a  most  striking  contrast  to  the  general 
want  of  taste  that  appears  in  most  of  the  settlers  in  this 
region  about  such  matters.  One  iiuch  beneficial  example 
should,  and  no  doubt  will,  have  its  influence  upon  others. 

Long  Reach  commences  12  miles  from  St.  John's,  and  ex- 
tends 19  miles  to  Bellisle  Bay,  and  above  the  river  again  con- 
tracts, and  is  overhung  by  bold,  precipitous  rocks.  On  their 
summit  is  a  block-house  that  guards  the  important  pass  into 
Sussex  Vale  ;  through  it  runs  the  main  road  to  I^ova  Scotia. 
The  mountain  ranges  hereabouts  roil  backward  in  successive 
ridges  from  the  river,  loaded  with  a  richness  of  drapery  that  is 
delightful  to  behold. 

The  hills  gradually  disappear  50  miles  above  St.  John's, 
or  are  only  observed  in  the  distance,  the  farms  improve  in 
appearance,  are  well  stocked,  islands  and  rich  intervals  oc- 
cur, and  there  appears  more  thrift.  At  the  inn  near  here, 
called  the  Half-way-house,  the  British  officers  from  the  garri- 
sons of  St.  John's  and  Frederickton  meet  in  winter  to  enjoy 
themselves,  and  glide  back  to  their  respective  quarters  in 
their  tandem  sleighs,  63  miles,  in  six  hours. 

We  now  pass  Gage  Town  on  the  lel^,  and  on  the  right  the 
Jemsegf  a  deep  inlet  that  leads  to  the  Grand  Lake,  30  miles 
long  and  nine  broad ;  a  district  famous  for  coal  mines  and 
trout-fishing,  with  streams  falling  into  it,  by  which,  with  a 
short  portage,  communication  may  be  had  with  the  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence. 

The  long,  unbroken  intervals  of  rich  alluvial  soil,  in  the 
parishes  of  Shefiield  and  Mangerville,  are  almost  on  a  level 
with  the  river's  banks,  and  are  ornamented  with  rows  of  trees. 

Oronacto  River  and  village  is  12  miles  below  Frederickton. 
This  river  is  very  deep,  and  ships  are  built  here  and  in  manjr 

25 


t90        Scenery  of  ike  Si.  John's  Riter,  New  Bruntwiek* 


See 


other  places  on  the  St.  John's,  amongst  meadows  and  corn* 
fields. 

On  rounding  a  projecting  point,  Frederickton,  the  metk'opo* 
lis  of  New  Brunswick,  appears  with  its  tiny  spires  rising  from 
the  bosom  of  the  waters — a  city  of  the  woods,  new,  white- 
washed, and  unfinished.  It  is  a  long  and  rather  straggling 
place,  laid  out  regularly  in  quadrangles,  with  wide  and  airy 
streets ;  the  principal  of  them  are  a  mile  in  length,  and  run 
parallel  with  the  river.  Many  neat  and  pleasant  cottagei 
are  scattered  over  the  town,  that  give  it  a  pleasing  sylvan 
aspect.  It  stands  upon  a  flat  sandy  tongue  of  land  formod 
by  a  bend  of  the  St.  Johns ;  the  plain  is  three  miles  in 
length,  varying  in  breadth  from  a  narrow  strip  to  half  a  mile; 
the  river  is  1,000  yards  across,  winding  past  in  front,  with  an 
amphitheatre  of  richly  wooded  hills  for  its  back-ground.  The 
view  both  up  and  down  the  valley  is  most  interesting — to  the 
north  an  uncleared  range  of  highlands,  with  detached  cones 
and  broken  hills,  thrown  out  in  bold  relief  upon  the  landscape. 
Villas  enclosed  in  the  woods,  and  farms  upon  the  clearings, 
are  the  chief  objects  it  presents;  while  to  the  south  the  river 
is  jeen  wipding  like  a  silver  cord  through  the  dark  wood- 
lands, until  it  disappears  among  the  islands  in  the  distance. 
The  site  of  the  city  is  low,  and  exposed  to  the  inundation  of 
the  river  in  spring,  and  to  the  easy  approaches  of  an  enemy. 

The  public  buildings,  with  the  exception  of  the  government 
house  and  the  college,  both  massy  stone  edifices,  have  little 
to  recommend  them.  The  population  \%  about  4,000,  in- 
cluding many  families  of  great  respectability,  chiefly  refugees 
and  loyalists,  or  tories,  lliat  settled  here  during  and  after  the 
American  Revolution.  <)  f^ 

Should,  in  the  course  of  human  events,  in  the  final  settle- 
ment of  the  boundary  question  between  Maine  and  New 
Brunswick,  an  exchange  of  territories  in  part  be  carried  into 
operation,  it  may  happen  that  the  portion  of  British  territory 
south  and  west  of  the  river  St.  John's,  and  along  the  sea 
coast,  may  be  ceded  in  lieu  of  that  large  tract  north  of  the 
St.  John's,  at  the  great  falls,  as  proposed  by  the  arbitration  of 
the  King  of  Holland,  to  be  the  adopted  line ;  in  this  case 
Frederickton  would  be  included  in  the  extreme  north-east 
ferritory  of  the  Union,  and  St.John^s  City  would  be  excluded 
by  the  intervention  of  the  noble  river^of  that  Mame. 

Whatever  decision  may  happen,  a  quiet  and  peaceable 
settlement  of  this  vexed  aind  agitating  subject  is  much  to  be 


desired ;  i 
their  dai 
eflected  fa 


Scenei 
of  I 
Scot! 

NovaS 
ning  at  D 
we  will  p 
Fondy. 

Digby  J 
the  minei 

Long  Ii 
west  of  r 
there  are 
and  at  Ic 
green  sto 

Thatp 
called  Lii 
features  f 
of  trap, 
the  river 
matic  col 
ken  horia 
basaltic  i 
blocks  ar 
times  off 
dashed  fr 
each  oth 
rude  forn 
trap  is  ve 
but  is  gei 

The  n< 
Cove,  foi 
ribbon  ja 
twelve  in( 
snd  is  re 
winding  i 
•ubjects 
namental 


Scenery  and  Mineralogy  around  the  Bay  o/Fundy.    291 

desired;  and  perhaps  a  complete  transfer  of  British  title  to  all 
their  claims  to  any  part  of  this  continent,  may  eventually  be 
eflfected  by  purchase. 


Scenerjr  and  Excursion  around  the  Bay 
of  Fundy*  and  Mineralogy  of  Nova 
Scotia. 

Nova  Scotia  offers  a  rich  field  to  the  mineralogist.  Begin- 
ning at  Digby  Neck,  in  the  south-west  part  of  the  province, 
we  will  proceed  north-east  tovirardg  the  head  of  the  Bay  of 
Fundy. 

Digby  Neck  affords  peculiar  facilities  to  the  researches  of 
the  mineralogist  and  geologist. 

Long  Island  and  Brier's  Island,  and  the  extreme  south- 
west of  Nova  Scotia,  is  composed  of  columnar  green  stone; 
there  are  veins  of  jasper,  chalcedony,  and  a  little  amethyst, 
and  at  low  water  the  amygdaloid,  on  which  the  columnar 
green  stone  rests,  is  accessible. 

That  part  of  Digby  Neck,  six  miles  from  Petit  Passage, 
called  Little  River  Settlement,  is  remarkable  in  its  geological 
features  for  the  wonderful  symmetry  of  form  in  the  prisms 
of  trap.  They  here  present  a  lofty  precipice  to  the  sea  where 
the  river  enters  St.  Mary's  Bay,  composed  of  regular  pris- 
matic columns  of  three,  five,  and  nine  sides,  frequently  bro- 
ken horizontally,  thus  resembling  in  a  striking  manner  the 
basaltic  rocks  of  the  Giants'  Causeway.  These  prismatic 
blocks  are  usually  two  or  three  feet  in  diameter,  and  some- 
times of  many  yards  in  length,  unbroken ;  others  have  been 
dashed  from  their  pedestals,  and  tumbled  in  confusion  against 
each  other,  forming  irregular  gothic  arches,  and  by  their 
rude  forms  give  an  additional  wildncss  to  the  scene.  This 
trap  is  very  heavy,  tenacious,  and  sonorous ;  its  color  varies, 
but  is  generally  greyish  black. 

The  next  place  that  will  interest  the  mineralogist  is  Mink 
Cove,  four  miles  east  from  Little  River ;  here  red, yellow,  and 
ribbon  jasper  traverse  the  precipices  in  veins  from  eight  to 
twelve  inches  wide  to  a  considerable  extent  through  the  rocks, 
and  is  rendered  more  beautiful  by  zones  of  various  colors 
winding  in  concentric  circles  through  the  mass.  They  are  fit 
subjects  for  the  lapidary's  wheel,  and  when  polished  are  or- 
namental specimens.  »''?***»?»«    ^^,  *;«f8^3»v^ 


t>  ii 


1;!! 


4 


39S    Bctnery  and  Mineralogy  around,  the  Bay  of  Fundy. 


The  next  considerable  indentation  upon  this  coast  is  Sandu 
Cove.  This  cove  is  tlie  largest  on  the  coast  of  St.  Mary's 
Bay,  and  from  its  favorable  situation  affords  n  safe  harbor  to 
tnnrinerii.  The  surrounding^  wall  consists  of  tabular  green- 
stone, rising  from  the  base  of  the  precipice  in  huge  sheets, 
Vertically  inclined,  and  sometimes  divided  into  separate  blocks 
that  lie  one  above  another,  with  their  reposing  surfaces  per- 
fectly flat. 

Laumonite  is  here  found  traversing  the  amygdaloid  in  veins 
a  foot  wide,  in  vertical,  inclined,  or  zig-zag  directions.  Into 
the  cavities  of  these  veins  the  laumonite  projects  in  beauti* 
ful  groups  of  crystals — they  are  colorless  and  transparent, 
and  frequently  an  inch  in  length;  interspersed  with  these  are 
brilliant  spangles  of  specular  iron  ore,  that  give  much  addi- 
tional beauty  to  the  specimens.  To  preserve  the  transparen- 
cy of  these  crystals,  they  should  be  prepared  with  a  strong 
protecting  solution  of  gum  arable  in  which  to  immerse  then), 
otherwise  they  will  crumble  into  dust. 

About  one  mile  east  of  Sandy  Cove,  the  specular  iron  ore 
appears  to  the  mineralogist  in  more  important  veins,  aflbrd- 
ing  specimens  not  inferior  in  beauty  to  those  from  the  island 
of  Elba.  Crossing  from  Sandy  Cove  to  the  Bay  of  Fundy, 
about  the  distance  of  one  mile,  we  come  to  an  indentation 
called  Outer  Santlp  Cove.  Between  this  and  the  inner  cove 
is  a  small  but  extremely  beautiful  lake  of  fresh  water,  with  a 
sandy  bottom,  and  having  a  very  diminutive  outlet  into  the 
Bay  of  Fundy.  These  two  coves  are  nearly  connected  by 
this  little  lake.  The  rocks  M,  this  cove  present  no  remarka- 
ble peculiarities  of  structure.  The  shore  is  composed  of  im- 
mense sheets  of  green>8tone  of  the  amorphoui::  variety,  that 
shelve  or  dip  towards  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  at  an  angle  of  10° 
or  15°,  and  finally  disappear  beneath  its  waters. 

The  most  interesting  features  of  this  place  are  the  large 
veins  of  red  jasper  that  appear  in  parallel  ridges,  resembling 
more  than  any  other  thing  the  brick  battlements  upon  in- 
clined roofs  of  houses;  and  extending  from  the  highest  part 
of  the  shore  to  low  water-mark.  These  ridges  stand  as  monu- 
ments to  show  the  continual  effect  of  a  turbulent  sea,  that 
has  worn  away  the  rock  they  traverse  with  comparative 
facility,  and  left  them  entire,  or  slightly  polished,  as  obstacles 
to  its  further  encroachments.  They  contain  in  some  places 
geodes  of  quartz,  amethyst,  and  rich  specimens  of  agai**, 
formed   by  narrow  threads  of  red  jasper  traversing  while 


masses  o 


bcenery  and  Mineraloffjf  around  the  Bay  »f  Fuady.    )9|l 

transparent  chalcedony  in  a  zit^-zag  manner,  and  when  pol> 
ished,  constitute  pleasing  specimens.  « ' 

Following  the  shore  of  St.  Mary's  Bay  eastwardly  ai  we 
leave  Sandy  Cove,  and  examining  at  low  water  the  fragments 
that  have  been  detached  from  the  precipices  above,  and  pro- 
fusely  scattered  along  their  base  at  the  water's  edge,  agalet  of 
various  kinds  and  of  great  beauty  are  found  in  abundance; 
some  are  of  that  variety  called  fortification-agate,  from  a  re- 
semblance to  military  works  on  the  polished  surface  of  the 
specimen ;  varieties  of  it  are  found  in  small  nodules  on  the 
shore,  polished  by  attrition,  and  resemble  the  Scotch  pebble. 

Brecciated  agate,  composed  of  angular  and  spheroidal 
masses  of  red  and  yellow  jasper  of  fine  texture,  cemented  by 
transparent  and  amethystine  quartz,  after  enclosing  in  geodes 
beautiful  crystals  of  pure  amethyst,  that,  covering  the  whole 
interior  of  the  cavity  with  protruding  cryataU,  ?ie  in  beauty 
with  any  specimens  brought  from  the  banks  of  the  Rhine.  A 
large  geode  was  found  near  the  estate  of  Mr.  Titus,  on  the 
shore  of  St.  Mary's  Bay,  that  weighed  more  than  40  pounds, 
and  was  composed  almost  entirely  of  the  richest  purple  ame- 
thyst— the  mass  having  but  a  thm  coat  of  fortilication-agate^ 
externally. 

On  the  coast  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  six  miles  east  of  Sandy 
Cove,  is  an  indentation  called  Trout  Cove ;  the  situation  of 
the  rocks  is  picturesque,  having  been  tumbled  in  great  con- 
fusion against  each  other,  forming  rude,  irregular  passages 
under  their  walls.  Here  are  found  some  varieties  of  agate, 
that  do  not  occur  elsewhere  on  Digby  Neck.  They  have  a 
ground  of  highly  translucent  chalcedony  of  a  blue  color,  with 
angular  fragments  of  red  jasper  included ;  it  has  slender 
threads  of  blood-red  jasper  twisted  iq  zig-zag  directions,  a 
singular  combination  of  fortification-agate  and  bipod-stone 
ia  the  same  specimen. 

GuUiver^s  Hole  is  a  cove  of  the  larji^est  indentation  that  thji 
soas  have  been  able  to  effect  in  this  iron-bound  coast.  It 
penetrates  three-fourths  of  a  mile  into  the  land,  and  being 
narrower  at  its  entrance,  and  protected  by  massy  columns  of 
trap  rock,  it  affords  a  secure  retreat  to  the  small  fishing  ves- 
sels when  the  wind  is  too  violent  for  them  to  ride  on  thi9  un- 
sheltered coast.  Here  is  a  prions  variety  of  stilbMe,  that  in- 
trusts the  wall?  of  narrow  but  deep  fissures  in  the  trap— 'th^ 
color  is  white,  with  a  tinge  of  gfe)^.    Long  sheets  «r0  f aaUjf 

8^  w^m^wm'^fim^i^'' W^i^ 


m 


Sctntry  and  Mineralogy  of  the  Bay  of  Fund f  A 


■>'■. 

V 


detached  from  the  rock  by  the  hammer  and  chiiel,  and  are 
remarkably  fine  specimens  of  this  singnlar  mineral. 

On  the  shore  of  St.  Mary's  Bay,  a  vertical  section  of  sand^ 
•tone  is  presented  of  160  feet  in  heifjfhf,  spreading  its  broad 
.face  to  the  sea ;  and  being  the  natural  barrier  to  bufTet  its  vio- 
lence, it  has  received  the  name  of  Sea-wall ;  the  entire  pre- 
cipice is  rapidly  acted  upon  from  the  usual  causes  of  decay, 
and  large  masses  are  frequently  falling.  The  tide  hcru  rites 
to  the  hei|;ht  of  36  feet,  or  a  foot  in  ten  minutes. 

Annapolis  Batin  is  the  most  capacious  and  secure  harbor 
for  large  vessels  in  Nova  Scotia— a  thousand  vessels  may  ride 
in  it  in  safety,  secure  from  every  wind ;  the  entrance  is  very 
narrow,  between  rocky  precipices,  with  a  light-house  to  guide 
to  the  entrance,  and  to  the  town  of  Annapolis  and  Digby,  at 
the  upper  part  of  the  basin.  The  site  of  the  light-house  is  on 
a  projecting  rock  of  columnar  trap,  and  the  fury  of  the  waves 
is  such  in  boisterous  weather,  that  they  dash  completely  over 
the  precipice  to  a  great  height.  The  gut  is  half  a  mile  wide, 
and  appears  as  if  it  had  been  separated  by  violence,  and  not 
worn  away  by  the  action  of  the  water. 

As  the  voyager  is  coasting  along-  the  bold  s'  elevated 
shores  of  the  south-eastern  side  of  the  Bay  of  F  ',  he  is 
suddenly  brought  to  a  narrow  passage ;  through  it  the  tides 
rush  with  great  violence  and  rapidity ;  the  banks  rising  on 
either  side  with  almost  perpendicular  ascent  to  a  niountainonc 
height.  In  a  few  minutes  he  is  swept  through  into  a  wide, 
calm,  and  sheltered  bay,  large  enough,  it  would  seem,  to  hold 
the  navies  of  the  world.  Tliecircuit  of  the  horizon  is  traced  on 
every  side  by  ridges  of  mountains,  richly  wooded  to  the  very 
summit ;  the  lowland  is  spread  out  in  wide  prairies,  and  there 
is  no  visible  outlet  to  the  sea,  the  narrow  strait  being  entire- 
ly concealed  by  the  projecting  hills  and  lofty  forests.  At  the 
head  of  this  noble  harbor,  the  JinnapolU  River^  after  having 
flowed  through  an  extended  valley  of  uncommon  beauty  and 
amenity  of  aspect,  and  watered  as  rich  a  soil  as  any  in  this 
partof  the  continent,  alternately  pours  itself  forth  in  a  rapid 
current  with  the  retiring,  or  yields  to  the  irresistible  power  of 
the  advancing,  tide.  Here,  in  1605,  was  laid  the  foundation 
of  the /Erst  permanent  eeUlement  in  all  British  North  America; 

UndiBr  the  name  of  Port  AoyoZ,  this  aneient  town  was  the 
scene,  for  more  than  a  hundredf  years,  of  the  most  interesting 
and  romantic  military  adventures  and  vicissitudes.  And 
now,  under  the  name  of  AnnapoUt  Royals  it  presents,  in  its 


Scenery  and  Mineralogy  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,         298 


beautiful  and  expansive  scenery — in  its  apparent  seclusion 
from  the  world — in  its  historical  recollections— in  Its  ancient 
fortresses— its  deep  and  verdant  moar,  and  narrow  draw* 
bridge  and  moldering^  batteries — in  its  rich  and  prosperous 
back-country — in  its  peaceful  tranquillity,  and  above  all,  io 
irs  amiable  and  intelligent  population,  one  of  the  most  inte> 
renting  villages  in  North  America.  It  is  probable  that  no  place 
in  the  now  world  has  passed  through  so  many  and  so  remark- 
able changes  as  the  little  town  of  Annapolis.  It  was  twice 
deserted  by  its  inhabitants  in  the  earliest  years  of  its  history ; 
it  has  been  invested  by  hostile  forces  ten  times ;  five  times  had 
surrendered  to  the  prowess  of  the  English,  and  again  been 
restored  to  France,  when,  by  the  treaty  of  1713,  it  was  finally 
ceded  to  Great  Britain,  it  has  repulsed  five  assaults,  the  In- 
dians having  invested  it  unsuccessfully  three  times,  and  the 
French  twice. 

Passing  from  Annapolis  gut  or  entrance,  we  arrive,  in  20 
miles  north-east,  at  Chute' a  CovCf  the  intermediate  being  an 
exceedingly  dangerous  part  of  the  coast,  and  presents  a  line 
of  interrupted  precipices  of  trap  r^  ks,  afibrding  the  mari- 
ner but  few  places  of  landing,  and  the  coves  that  occur  are 
not  of  sufficient  magnitude  to  ensure  protection  from  the  sud- 
den gales  that  are  here  sometimes  occasionally  encountered. 

Chule^s  Cove  forms  a  wide  interval  in  the  prevailing  ab- 
ruptness of  the  coast;  its  bottom  presents  a  great  extent  of 
surface,  and  on  examination  at  low  water  it  appears  to  con- 
sist of  distinct  columnar  green-stones,  whose  individual  faces 
are  probably  the  summits  of  long  columns  rising  vertically 
from  deep  foundations. 

Leaving  Chute's  Cove  and  proceeding  about  six  miles  east, 
we  arrive  at  St.  Croix  Cove ;  at  this  place  the  rocks  resume 
their  abruptness,  and  present  lofty  precipices  of  columnar 
trap,  resting  on  amygdaloid.  A  few  miles  east  native  copper 
has  been  found. 

From  St.  Croix  Cove,  pursuing  the  coast  easterly,  the 
amygdaloid,  crowned  with  columnar  green-stone,  continues 
and  forms  an  abrupt  precipice  for  five  miles,  where  it  is  again 
interrupted  by  Martel  Cove,  The  rotks  at  this  place,  and  the 
ruins  that  the  neighboring  shore  presents,  cannot  fail  to 
reward  the  labor  of  those  who  may  visit  this  locality,  as 
scarcely  a  week  passes  without  the  downfall  of  some  im- 
pending ateep  that  scatters  its  treasures  along  the  shore  be- 
fore shaded  by  its  brink.  Here  the  heulandite  exists  in  veins 


Tf 


299     Scenerp  and  Mineralogy  around  the  Bay  o/Fuudy. 


six  inches  wide,  extending  vertically  from  :he  base  of  the 
precipice  to  its  extreme  verge;  some  have  a  pearly-white 
appearance;  it  is  usually  colorless  and  transparent,  and  very 
rarely  of  a  red  color  like  those  from  Scotland  and  Germany. 
Analcime  with  native  copper  is  here  found — a  rare  association. 

Hadley^8  and  Gates'  Mountains  are  the  next  places  of  mi- 
neralogical  interest;  they  are  situated  near  each  other,  rising 
gradually  from  the  Bay  of  Fundy  to  the  height  of  300  feet. 
They  are  formed  of  amygcaioid,  and  the  included  minerals 
are  peculiarly  Ihrsie  and  ab  jndant,  and  in  obtaining  speci- 
mens  the  labor  of  digging,  or  ?ven  using  a  hammer,  is  here 
entirely  avoided,  for  masses  Ji  thomsonite  and  mesotypeare 
found  abundantly  scattered  over  the  fields,     i^^d^^-  rr 

The  next  place  of  interest  to  the  mineralogist  is  Peler^s 
Point,  a  promontory  that  projects  into  the  Bif«y  of  Fundy 
and  forms  a  shelter  on  the  west  to  a  small  creek  and  saw-mill, 
called  Stronac1i?s  Brook.  The  amygdaloid  has  here  been  wash- 
ed away  from  under  the  superincumbent  columnar  trap,  that 
presents  an  overhanging  precipice,  threatening  to  crush  the 
traveler  that  may  venture  b?neath  its  frowning  brink,  from 
iirhose  summit  large  masses  of  rock,  detached  by  the  frosts, 
are  almost  continually  falling  and  disclosing  valuable  trea- 
sures of  rare  and  beautiful  minerals,  laumonites,  &c.  which 
the  cavernous  recesses  here  display  in  abundance  and 
perfection.     '.5:5  s  y4-»»,fi»s;#  ^•js•^*fe^:-/J.'M  • 

Ac  French  Cross  Cove^  12  miles  east  of  Peter's  Point,  the 
precipice  rises  to  the  height  of  300  feet  perpend'xular.  The 
entire  front  of  this  precipice  can  only  be  examined  at  low 
water ;  the  laumonite  and  mesotype  are  again  found  here, 
and  heulandite  in  the  most  beautiful  crystals. 

Cape  Split  is  the  bold  promontory  terminating  the  north- 
cast  limit  of  the  mountain  range  on  the  east  side  of  the  Bay 
of  Fundy,  into  which  it  projects  in  a  south-west  direction, 
the  extremity  of  the  cape  having  been  detached  from  the 
main  land  by  ihe  undermjiiing  of  the  amygdaloid  by  the  tii- 
multuous  waves  and  tremendous  force  of  the  tides,  rising 
sometimes  to  the  height  of  50  or  60  feet,  that  has  caused  the 
weighty  mass  to  fall  from  the  contiguous  rock  into  the  sea 
beneath,  leaving  a  wide  chasm  through  which  the  tides  form 
a  rapid  and  dangerous  race-way,  the  Hurlgate  of  the  Bay  of 
Fwndy^  and  the  entrance  into  the  Basin  of  Mines^  a  large 
body  of  water  extending  50  miles  eastward,  and  10  to  20 
miles  in  width,  and  receiving  Windsor  and  Gay  Riven  on  ihe 


n  tr 


Scenerp  and  Miruralogy  arcund  the  Bay  of  Fundy*    297. 

louth  tide,  besides  numerous  small  streams  heading  in  the 
interior  lakes.  Windsor,  on  the  river  uniting  with  the  Basin 
of  Mines  at  its  south-east  prong,  is  a  line  village  30  miles 
south  of  ParsSoro',  and  48  north-wost  of  Halifax  ;  the  ex- 
penses of  traveling  and  the  fare  and  accommodations  are 
like  the  United  States.  The  road  to  Halifax  is  through  a 
poor,  rolling,  hilly  country,  thinly  peopled,  and  of  forbidding 
aspect,  scathed  by  fire ;  spruce  trees  are  seen,  and,  few  and 
far  between,  a  neat  dwelling  and  well  tilled  farm ;  and  threo 
miles  from  Halifax  is  seen,  at  the  head  of  Bradford  Basing 
the  ruins  of  a  costly  mansion,  formerly  Prince  Edward's. 

Ca^t  Split  forms  the  southern  boundary  of  a  strait  called 
b^  the  inhabitants  the  Gut.  It  presents  a  lofty  mural  preci* 
pice,  and  gradually  increases  in  height  till  it  finally  reaches 
the  elevation  of  500  feet  above  the  sea  at  Cape  Blomidon,  15 
miles  from  Cape  Split,  and  facing  towards  the  Basin  of 
Mines.  Heulandite  here  occurs  in  crystals  of  uncommon 
size.  HorO' stone,  masses  of  agate,  &c.  occur  scattered  among 
the  ruins  of  the  trap  rocks,  that  become  entirely  inaccessible 
as  we  approach. Cape  Blomidon.  This  cape  foimsan  abrupt 
termination  of  the  north  mountain,  or  Cornteallis  Mountain^ 
OS  it  is  termed,  and<  presents  us  with  the  outcropping  of  the 
sand*8tone,  that  here  give  support  to  the  trap  rocks,  and  con- 
stitute the  chief  part  of  the  precipice,  in  a  projection  called 
by  the  inhabitants  the  Offset. 

The  Mines  Basin  will  be  interesting  to  the  traveler,  not 
only  on  account  of  the  delightful  villages  seated  on  the  banks 
of  some  of  the  many  rivers  that  empty  their  waters  into  it, 
the  picturesque  anc^^  imposing  scenery  on  its  borders,  and  the 
enormous  tides  that  here  rise  to  the  height  of  sixty  to  seventy 
feet,  and  with  fearful  rapidity  ;  but  also  for  the  remarkably 
fine  illustrations  of  the.  geology  of  the  country,  and  the  inte- 
resting relations  of  the  difierent  formations  that  are  here  pre- 
sented in  an  unusually  distinct  manner.  The  geologist  will 
delight  to  ciicnmnavigate  its  coast  tae  whole  extent,  and  ex- 
plore the  connections  of  the  difi'srent  series  of  rock  forma- 
tions, the  highly  curious  and  important  junctions  of  the  trap 
with  the  sand-stone,  shale,  &c.  The  collector  of  specimens 
in  natural  history  will  also  be  richly  rewa/ded  for  the  perils 
he  may  incur  by  the  acquisition  of  many  of  the  rare  and 
beautiful  productions  of  the  mineral  kingdom. 

The  most  eligible  and  only  efficient  mode  of  exploring  this 
coast,  although  not  free  from  danger,  is  by  means  of  a  boat, 


298     Scenery  and  Mineralogy  around  the  Bay  of  Fundy, 

not  no  large  as  to  be  incapable  of  being  rowed,  in  case  of  fail* 
ure  of  wind  ;  for  besides  the  difficulty  of  transporting  speci- 
mens, the  traveler  is  constantly  in  danger  of  being  caught  be- 
neath the  insurmountable  precipices  by  the  rapid  influx  of 
the  tides;  an  accident  of  this  kind  having  once  caused  the 
writer  to  make  his  escape  by  clambering  up  a  precipice  cf 
300  feet  in  height,  to  the  imminent  risk  of  his  life. 

Cape  Chignecto  is  a  bold  headland  that  projects  into  the 
Bay  of  Fundy  for  about  forty  miles,  forming  a  bulwark  be* 
tween  Chignecto  Bay  on  tne  west,  and  the  Basin  of  Mines 
on  the  east,  and  is  an  immense  barrier  of  high  and  inaccessible 
cliffs  of  green-stone  trap  rock,  destitute  of  any  landing-place, 
and  a  constant  source  of  dread  to  the  mariner  in  these  turbu- 
lent seas,  and  iron-bound,  forbidding  coasts.  This  cape  forms 
the  south-east  extremity  of  the  County  of  Cumberland,  and 
near  Apple  River  is  an  abrupt  termination  of  the  trap  rock, 
where  the  sand-stone  comes  boldly  into  contact,  without 
dipping  beneath  it. 

Cape  d'Or,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  the  Basin  of  Mines  on 
the  west  side,  presents  a  mural  precipice  of  400  feet  elevation 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is  composed  of  trap,  resting 
on  amygdaloid  and  trap  tuflfa.  Deep  caverns  and  irregular 
arches  have  been  formed  beneath  the  superincumbent  rock, 
by  the  beating  of  the  angry  surges  against  the  walls.  The 
crevices  in  this  rock  are  occupied  by  irregular  masses  of 
native  copper,  of  two  or  three  pounds  weight,  and,  where 
exposed  to  the  action  of  the  waves,  it  is  always  bright,  and 
may  be  seen  for  some  distance  beneath  the  water,  and  was 
supposed  to  be  gold  by  the  first  French  settlers,  and  thus 
originated  the  name.  At  Wilmot,  25  miles  south-west  on  the 
other  side  of  the  bay,  is  also  found  copper  ore  in  veins,  in  a 
similar  direction.  On  the  eastern  side  of  Cape  d'Off  the 
precipice  assumes  a  concave  form,  and  is  named  Horse  Shoe 
Cove.  ■!rH'-*^-i'''''f  '•'V'  »■ 

Leaving  Cape  d'Or,  we  pass  Spencer^s  Island^  that  is  situa- 
ted a  mile  from  the  capo.  It  is  composed  of  columnrir  trap 
and  adds  much  to  the  piccuresque  scenery  of  this  region.  The 
altitude  of  this  island  considerably  exceeds  the  diameter  of 
its  base,  and  standing  alone,  like  a  tower  in  the  midst  of  the 
waters,  it  breaks,  in  a  degree,  the  violence  of  the  surge  that 
rolls  into  the  Basin  of  Mines  from  the  Bay  of  Fundy. 

Proceeding  along  the  coast  towards  the  east,  up  the  basin 
15  miles,  we  arrive  at  Cape  Sharp,  a  promontory  of  amor- 


■v:\:, 


Suwtry  and  Mineralogy  aroimd  the  Bay  ef  Fundy.     298 , 

phons  trap,  forming  a  precipice  or  blufTin  advance  of  the  low 
sand-stone  hills,  and  thus  protecting  them  from  the  ravages- 
of  the  sea.  Near  here  is  observed  ths  junction  of  the  sand* 
stone,  shale,  and  trap— the  two  former  dipping  beneath  the 
trap  an  angle  of  26  degrees. 

Partridge  Island^  in  crossing  the  Basin  of  Mines  six  miles 
from  Cape  Sharp,  after  passing  the  majestic  Biomidon,  is  the 
first  elevated  object  that  meets  the  eye.  It  consists  of  amyg> 
daloid  and  columnar  greenstone,  that  on  its  south-west 
side  presents  a  precipitous  and  overhanging  front  of  about 
250  feet,  rendering  precarious  the  situation  of  those  who  may 
pass  beneath  its  brow.  Stationed  near  the  verge  of  this 
precipice,  the  visiter  beholds  beneath  him  rugged,  insu- 
lated towers,  rising  abruptly  from  the  sea  almost  to  a  level 
with  his  own  standing,  and  having  withstood  the  frequent 
commotions  of  the  sea,  that  during  the  stormy  winter  months 
is  thrown  among  them  in  the  most  frightful  billows,  yet  re- 
main as  firm  and  immovable  barriers  to  resist  the  force  of 
these  repeated  attacks,  and  to  prevent  the  more  rapid  decay 
of  the  island.  Their  summits  are  crowned  with  a  thin  but 
luKuriant  soil ;  from  it  spring  up  a  few  scattered  hemlocks 
aad  a  low  underbrush,  that  nearly  obscures  the  face  of  the 
rock,  but  at  the  same  time  furniiiies  the  sea  bird  a  safe  re- 
treat beyond  the  reach  of  any  invader;  but  at  low  water  a 
scene  of  a  different  character  is  presented.  The  visiter,  now 
on  the  shore  beneath,  beholds  stupendous  objects  aliove 

him.  The  towers  and  precipices  b  a  <  lore  l^fty  than  before ; 
and  in  addition  to  the  wildness  and  ptciur'  que  beauty  of  the 
scene,  the  naturalist  will  find  before  hmi  a  field  so  richly 
stocked  with  interesting  minerals,  that  he  w.U  delight  ore- 
main  on  the  spot  and  gather  these  objects  of  science.  ' 

Of  the  many  interesting  minerals  to  be  found  at  this  piac  j, 
stilsite  associated  with  calcareous  spar  is  the  most  tuundant. 
Agatesof  various  kinds,  jasper,  and  chalcedony,  may  be  found 
in  the  columnar  rock,  and  along  the  shore  in  polished  frag- 
ments ;  but  the  substance  that  this  island  has  long  oeen 
known  to  possess  is  amethyst,  that  occurring  plen»  '  iy  in 
crystals  of  fascinating  beauty,  draws  hither  the  passit*^  travel* 
er,  who  seldom  departs  without  a  handsome  specimen  for 
his  cabinet. 

Six  miles  from  Partridge  I;.:and,  pursuing  the  northern 
fliiore  of  the  Basin  of  Mines,  we  arrive  at  the  Two  Islands, 
consisting  of  amygdaloid  and  columnar  green-stone,  rising 


900    Scenery  ^^  Mineralogy  around  the  Bay  o/Fundy,  ''■ 

abruptly  from  the  sea,  and  accessible  at  their  bases  only  at 
low  water.  On  the  main  land  near  Swan*B  Creek,  and  oppo- 
Bite  to  these  islands,  is  a  locality  of  uncommon  interest  of  the 
conversion  of  shale,  red  sand-stone,  and  compact  trap,  first 
into  a  coarse,  and  afterwards  compact  breccia,  and  finally  by 
gradations  into  amygdaloid.  The  shore  is  fronted  by  a  steep 
bank  about  100  feet  high  ;  from  the  bas  t  a  slope  of  debris, 
detached  by  the  frost,  inclines  down  into  the  sea. 

The  next  places  to  be  noticed  along^  the  northern  shore  of 
the  Basin  of  Mines  are  the  Pive  Islands,  and  an  eminence 
known  by  the  name  of  T\nDer  HUlf  100  feet  high ;  Shell  Is- 
lands form  a  group,  situated  in  a  direction  12  miles  south- 
east from  the  Two  Islands.  They  rise  abruptly  from  the  set 
in  lofty  fronts  of  a  picturesque  character.  The  island  most 
noted  is  the  one  standing  in  advance  of  the  others,  and  forms 
a  conspicuous  object  to  the  eye  of  the  mariner,  from  its 
having  been  undermined  by  the  action  of  the  surges  as  in 
other  instances  before  mentioned,  and  thus  presents  the  cu- 
rious phenomenaof  a  leaning  tower  ready  to  tumble  into  the 
sea  from  the  overhanging  weight  of  its  summit. 

The  sand-stone  constituting  so  large  a  portion  of  Nov& 
Scotia  is  of  various  appearances,  difllering  grestly  at  different 
places.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  trap,  as  at  Cape 
Chignecto,  Cape  Sharp,  and  Swan's  Creek,  it  is  of  a  dark 
brick-red  color.  Where  the  trap  and  sand^stone  pass  into  the 
shale,  they  are  so  gradually  blended  that  the  eye  cannot  dis* 
tinguish  the  line  of  division,  and  when  exposed  to  the  action 
of  the  waves  it  becomes  polished  on  the  surface. 
-  Near  Diligence  River  the  shale  is  almost  black,  and  include* 
a  large  bed  of  compact  limestone ;  a  section  of  it  is  formed 
by  the  encroachments  of  the  water.  A  little  beyond  Fox 
River  towards  Cape  'i'Or,  the  sand-stone  is  of  a  gray  color, 
and  is  seen  to  alterna  n  with  strata  of  greyish  black  shale; 
both  are  filled  with  relics  of  the  vegetable  kingdom  of  s 
former  world- 

The  whole  northern  coast  of  the  Basin  of  Mines,  with  the 
exception  of  the  capes  and  islands  of  trap,  before  described, 
is  composed  of  strata,  of  sand-stone,  and  shale,  alternating 
with  each  other,  and  presenting  to  the  sea  the  edges  of  their 
strata,  that  an  finely  exhibited  by  this  natural  section.  Their 
elevation  is  about  100  feet,  and  i  e  ihale  being  worn  away  bjr 
the  violence  of  the  waves,  exhibits  the  bold  ridges  of  sand> 
stone  strata,  contrasted  >witb  tUe  deep  furrows  eccasioned 


1\ 


Sceturjf  and  Mineralogy  around  the  Bay  of  Fundy,    801 

by  its  decay.  Near  the  village  of  Parsborough  the  red  shala 
appears  to  predominate,  and  constitutes  a  bed  more  than  100 
yards  thick,  ihat  is  beautifully  spotted  with  green,  and  con> 
tains  crystals  of  yellow  iron  pyrites. 

Beds  ofgypaum  occur  near  the  head  of  the  Basin  of  Mines* 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  Shubenacadie  RiveVf  but  much  larger  and 
more  vahiable  beds  occur  in  the  County  of  Hants,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Windsor,  south  side  of  the  basin,  and  great  quanti- 
ties are  sent  to  the  United  States.  This  gypsum  is  of  a  blue> 
ish  color,  and  although  valuable  abroad  as  a  manure,  it  here 
does  not  contribute  to  the  fertility  of  the  soil. 

The  gypsum  in  the  vicinity  of  Windsor  abounds  in  those 
conical  or  inverted,  funneNshaped  cavities  supposed  to  have 
been  occupied  by  salt  or  other  substances.  In  one  of  these 
caverns  the  bones  of  a  human  being,  support''*,  from  the  relics 
of  arrows  found  with  them,  to  have  been  those  of  one  of  tho 
aborigines,  were  discovered  in  opening  a  quarry.  It  is  pre- 
sumed that  this  unfortunate  individual,  while  pursuing  his 
favorite  occupation  of  the  chase,  was  precipitated  to  the  bot- 
tom of  this  frightful  dungeon,  and  being  confined  by  its  in- 
dined  walls,  was  unable  to  reach  its  summit  and  regain  the 
light.  Thus  incarcerated,  he  perished  by  hunger.  His  bonei 
are  preserved  in  the  library  of  King's  College  at  Windsor. 

The  most  extensive  beds  of  gypsum  in  the  County  of 
Hants  occur  in  Newport,  on  the  north-east  side  of  St.  Croix 
River,  where  it  forms  a  precipitous  wall  rising  from  the 
river,  and  extending  along  its  course  ;  it  is  more  extensively 
wrought  than  any  other  locality  in  Nova  Scotia. 

On  the  banks  of  a  small  but  romantic  stream,  that  empties 
itself  into  the  St.  Croix,  called  Montague  River,  a.  remarkably 
beautiful  locality  of  siliceous  breccia,  passing  into  gray-wacke, 
presents  itself  to  the  traveler — it  consists  of  angular  fragm)^nts 
of  quartz  and  feldspar,  and  a  few  spanglcit  of  mica;  the  feld- 
«par  being  of  a  flesh  red  color,  gives  it  an  appearance  at  a 
distance  resembling  red  sand>stoue  The  precipice  is  about 
60  feet  high,  and  rises  from  a  bnne  of  the  same  rock  forming 
the  bed  of  the  stream,  that  has  excavated  numerous  deep 
holes  into  the  bottom,  formmg  beautiful  reservoirs  of  limpid 
water;  the  direction  of  the  strata  is  north-east  and  south- 
west, and  the  dip  10°  to  the  north-west,  forming  a  declivity 
down  which  the  water  rushes,  and  falling  from  the  broken 
strata  produces  an  agreeable  effect.  This  place,  adorned  with 
overshadowing  trees,  is  a  favorito  place  of  resort   for  the 

26 


1! 


1 14 


m 


wmm 


^f^mm^^BBsmmm 


308    Seiner^  and  Mineratdgy  arounS  the  Bay  of  FunOy, 

visiters  of  tho  Mwtagw  Houst^  and  has  tempted  the  pencil  of 
«  noble  ludy  to  portray  its  beauties. 

The  shores  and  islands  bordering  on  Cumberland  Basin 
and  Chignecto  Bay  at  the  north-western  fork  and  head  of  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  abounds  in  that  peculiar  kind  of  sand-stone 
useful  for  grindstones  and  very  extensively  quarried  at  Apple 
River,  the  South  Joggin,  at  Meringuin  and  Grindstone  Island. 
Thev  are  ahvnys  taken  at  low  water,  and  as  deep  as  possi- 
ble from  the  surface. 

The  Joggins  are  celebrated  for  the  quarries  of  grind-stones 
that  are  produced  (without  tho  aid  of  blasting)  from  the  na>' 
tural  stratification  and  cleavage.  When  lifted,  a  pair  of  com- 
passes with  iron  points  makes  the  circle,  and  tne  hammer 
and  chisel  are  then  used  to  finish.  The  grind-stones  are  then 
sold  at  three  shillings  a  stone,  of  24  inches  over  and  four  thick. 
Some  contain  10  or  12  times  that  size. 

At  South  Joggin,  where  the  coal  occurs  tho  stratification  is 
very  be&utiful ;  the  lofty  sea-wall  rising  from  100  to  150  feet, 
end  striped  by  lines  drawn  with  precision  at  an  angle  of  about 
30°,  separating  the  shale,  coal,  and  gray-wacke  slate,  that  the 
body  of  the  clifll'  is  composed  of.  The  coal  at  South  Joggin 
is  bituminous,  of  good  quality,  but  is  not  quarried  extensively. 

The  isthmus  connecting  Nova  Scotia  with  New  Brunswick, 
situated  between  Cumberland  Basin  and  Bay  Verte,  on  the 
Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  is  but  12  miles  wide  from  one  shore  to 
the  other,  and  being  composed  of  a  friable  decomposed  sand- 
stone, opposes  a  feeble  resistance  to  the  rushing  waves  of 
Cumberland  Bay,  where  the  tides  rise  to  the  height  of  60  to 
70  feet,  while  on  the  shores  of  Bay  Verte  they  scarcely  at- 
tain the  elevation  of  eight  or  ten  feet.  One  would  suppose 
such  frail  barriers  would  give  way  before  the  pressure  and 
violence  of  the  conflicting  tides  ;  it  is,  however,  a  remariiable 
fact,  that  the  same  waves  that  cause  so  much  devastation 
along  the  rock-bound  coast  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  under- 
mining and  tumbling  in  confusion  the  lofty  trap-rocks,  roll 
harmless  against  tbese  shores,  protected  by  the  bold  promon- 
tories of  Cape  Chignecto  and  Meringuin,  depositing  their 
spoils  taken  irom  the  opposing  rocks  quietly  on  the  shores  of 
Cumberland  Basin,  and  thus  fortifying  the  isthmus  in  its 
weakest  point.  The  inhabitants  assist  the  process,  securing 
by  dykes  the  soil  deposited  on  their  lands,  and  proHtably  use 
the  bounties  heaped  at  their  door  by  the  tumultuous  sea. 

From  the  shores  of  Chignecto  Bay,  the  sand-stone  and 


*>, 


Banuhment  of  the  Aeadiaiu. 


*■■  V- 


sot 


ilate  foiming  the  County  of  Cumberland,  extend  to  the 
waters  of  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  on  the  north,  and  stretch- 
ing eaetwardly  towards  the  County  of  Sidney^  constitute  a 
part  of  the  diittrict  of  Colchester  and  Pictou.  Salt  springs  have 
l)een  found  in  various  places  near  the  shores  of  the  Gulf  of 
St.  Lawrence,  near  the  River  Phillip. 

Occasional  beds  of  coal  are  met  with  eastward,  on  the  north 
hank  of  the  West  River.  In  the  eastern  part  of  Cumberland 
County,  where  the  Kempt  Bridge  crosses  this  stream,  a  bed 
of  bituminous  coal,  with  lignites  about  four  or  five  inches  wide, 
occurs  in  the  cliff  of  sand-stone ;  a  section  of  it  is  formed  by 
the  bed  of  the  river.  At  this  place,  on  the  vicinity  of  the  road 
from  Truro  to  Pictou,  and  accessible  to  travelers,  are  many 
relics  of  culmiferous  plants. 

Carriboo  River,  in  the  township  of  New  Philadelphia,  seven 
miles  north  of  Pictou,  presents  afield  of  great  interest  to  the 
mineralogist  and  miner.  On  the  banks  of  this  stream,  two 
miles  from  where  it  enters  into  the  Gjlf  of  St.  Lawrence,  is  a 
bed  of  copper-ore,  included  between  the  strata  of  sand-stone, 
passing  intc  -coarse  conglomerate.  It  is  associated  with  lig> 
nites  of  enormous  size,  that  generally  lie  over  the  copper 
ore.  These  rocks  rise  from  ihe  river  15  or  20  feet  above  its 
level,  and  from  banks  precipitous  to  its  stream ;  the  lignites 
are  black,  and  resemble  common  charcoal ;  some  are  fibrous 
and  take  a  good  polish. 


H* 


■-'«- 


II 


Banishment  of  the  Acadlans. 


The  most  remarkable  event  in  the  history  of  Nova  Scotia,  is 
the  seizure  and  Iramporlation  of  the  JicadiatiM,  or  the  original 
French  settlers,  for  refusing  to  take  the  oath  of  allegiance  to 
the  British  government. 

That  an  entire  mass  of  people,  to  the  number  of  several 
thousand,  should  sufier  themselves  to  be  entrapped,  kid- 
nappofi,  and  ordered  out,  scattered  and  transported  away,  is 
only  equalled  in  its  atrocity  by  a  very  recent  occurrence  of  a 
similar  nature  within  our  own  borders,  relating  to  our  hordes 
of  aborigines.  But  the  case  with  the  Acadians  is  more  inex- 
cusable, and  productive  of  more  cruel  oppression  and  hard- 
ship, the  French  being  a  quiet,  simple,  and  religious  people, 
ftnd  for  a  long  time 'had  lived  peaceably  under  English  do- 
mination. 


■i 


I 


1 


304 


*       Baniihrnent  of  the  Acadiant. 


! 


A  proclamation  wag  issued  by  the  Governor,  requiring  their 
attendance  at  specified  places  in  their  several  getilements,  on 
the  same  day ;  but  it  was  so  framed  that  the  design  could  not  be 
discovered,  and  so  severe  in  its  penalties  that  none  dared  to 
disobey,  and  by  this  cuhning  contrivance  nearly  the  whole 
population  was  surprised  simultaneously  throughout  the 
whole  province  on  the  5th  September,  1755,  when  the  cruel 
order  of  the  British  government  was  made  known  to  the 
thunderstruck  and  miserable  inhabitants,  viz.  '*  That  your 
lands  and  tenements,  cattle  of  all  kinds,  and  live  stocks  of  all 
sorts,  bo  forfeited  to  the  crown ;  with  all  other  your  effects, 
saviog  your  money  and  household  goods,  and  you  yourselves 
to  be  removed  from  this  province.'' 

They  were  then  declared  the  king's  prisoners ;  but  as 
some  of  these  wretched  inhabitants  escaped  to  the  woods,  ail 
possible  measures  were  adopted  to  force  them  back  to  cap- 
tivity. The  coimtry  was  laid  waste  to  prevent  their  subsist- 
ence ;  houses,  barns,  mills,  churches,  all  were  burned  indis- 
criminately. 

In  consequence  of  their  earnest  entreaties,  the  men  were 
permitted,  ten  at  a  time,  to  return  to  visit  their  wretched 
families,  and  to  look  for  the  last  time  upon  the  beautiful  fields 
of  their  loved  and  lost  homes. 

When  the  appointed  day  of  embarcation  at  last  arrived,  the 
10th  of  September,  overwhelmed  with  gloom  and  despair, 
and  with  a  keen  sense  of  their  miseries,  they  were  drawn  up, 
and  the  young  men  were  ordered  to  go  first  on  board  the  ves- 
sels. This  they  instantly  refused  to  do,  declaring  that  they 
would  not  leave  their  parents,  but  expressed  a  willingness  to 
comply  with  the  order,  provided  they  were  permitted  to  era- 
bark  with  their  families.  This  request  was  immediately  re- 
jected, and  the  troops  were  ordered  to  fix  bayonets  and 
advance  towards  the  prisoners — a  motion  which  had  the 
effect  of  producing  obedience  on  the  part  of  the  young  men. 
The  road  to  the  shore  was  crowded  with  women  and  chil- 
dren, who,  on  their  knees,  greeted  them  as  they  passed  with 
their  tears  and  their  blessings,  while  the  prisoners  advanced 
with  slow  and  reluctant  steps,  weeping,  praying,  and  singing 
hymns.  This  detachment  was  followed  by  the  seniors,  who 
passed  through  the  same  scene  of  sorrow  and  distress.  In 
this  manner  the  whole  male  population  were  embarked  and 
guarded  by  troops.  The  women  and  children  foUowod  ia 
other  transport!  at  intervals,      --r'-^-p^^i,^-  .^f^-  v;      ; 


I 


II 


Height  of  Tides  in  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  Hi 

After  the  hurry  and  excitement  of  this  embarcation  and 
banishment  had  subsided,  the  nppaliing  effects  became  obvi- 
ous to  the  English  prnvinciala,  In  the  sm^kinf;  and  desolated 
hearths  of  tho  peasant's  humble  cotta^^e.  Without  a  foe  to 
subdu&or  a  population  to  protect,  the  novelty  could  not  but 
force  itself  upon  the  attention  of  the  unreflecting  soldiery. 
For  several  days  the  cattle  assembled  around  the  smouldering 
ruins,  as  if  in  anxious  expectation  of  the  return  of  their  mas- 
ters, while  all  night  long  the  faithful  watch-dogs  howled  ovar 
the  scene  of  desolation. 

The  whole  population,  amounting  to  18,000  souls,  were 
thus  suddenly  and  violently  torn  from  the  fertile  fields  that 
their  ancestors  had  cleared  and  cultivated,  and  on  which 
they  were  born  and  hoped  to  die,  were  robbed  of  their  most 
valuable  properly,  separated  from  their  families  and  friends, 
crowded,  as  in  slave-ships,  into  small  vessels,  at  the  rate  of 
two  persons  for  each  ton,  transported  to  distant  provinces,  and 
scattered  in  humiliation,  in  poverty,  and  with  broken  hcams, 
in  communities  hostile  to  their  religion  and  country,  and 
averse  to  their  manners  and  customs,  without  knowing  each 
other's  fate,  and  without  the  least  ground  of  hope  that  they 
should  ever  meet  again  on  earth. 

While  the  traveler  contemplates  the  noble  dikes  reared  by 
their  industry,  by  means  of  which  whole  regions  have  been 
won  from  the  rivers  and  the  seas — while  he  walks  beneath 
the  shade  of  their  abundant  orchards,  and  stands  over  the 
ruins  of  their  cottages,  or  muses  among  their  groves,  his 
imagination  goes  back  to  a  scene  of  rural  felicity  and  purity 
in  which  the  fables  of  antiquity  were  realized ;  his  heart 
melts  in  sympathy  with  the  sudden  misfortunes  and  the 
dreadful  fate  of  the  poor  Acadians.  ,:*>'» 


Height  of  the  Tides  at  important  points 
tn  the  Bay  of  Fundy  and  Ticinf  ty« 

■>•.:.-.,■,.:.■..  .  , ;  ...  .  Feet. 

Advocate  Harbor,        .    -^"^■'•'''\-''  --;^'"-'i'-'-  -',"■''  '-^'^    .        ,        50 

Andrew's,  St.  (on  north-west  coast  of  Bay,)      .     •   .       .        .  SJ5 

Annapolis, 30 

Apple  River, 50 

Basin  of  Mine«, tJO 

ChigncctoBay,  (north  part  of  the  Bayof  Fundy,)    ...  60 

Bell  Island  Straits, 30 

26* 

t 


* 


f»  •> 


\' 


4 


206  Height  of  Tideu  in  the  Bay  of  Fundy. 

i  Feet. 

Cape  Blomidoi),           60 

•*    D'Or, 50 

"    Split SS 

'   Cumberland,  at  the  head  of  the  Bay, ^71 

'  Digby, «        .       .        .       .  JU 

Eastport, S5 

Green  Islands, 16 

Gut  of  Annapolis, .  90 

St.  John's,  (New  Brunswick,)    .       .        .        ....  30 

Louisburg,  (Cape  Breton,)          .......  5) 

Moose  River, 30 

"    Island,  (Maine,) 25 

'    Partridge  Island, 55 

Passamaquoddy  River, 25 

Penobsrot  River, 10 

Seven  Isles  Harbor, 31 

Shubenacadie  River, 70 

Truro,  (head  of  Mines'  Basin,)           .       .        .       .  V    .       •  70 

'   Windsor,             V        .  60 

Yarmouth,  (on  the  south-west  coast  of  Nova  Scotia,)        .       .  12 

BayofClialeur,(Guirof  St.  Lawrence,)          ....  10 
Bay  Verte,  12  miles  north-east  of  Cumberland,  on  the  shore  of 

Northumberland  Strait,  and  facing  Prince  Edward  Island,  8 

The  Isle  of  Sable.,  the  scene  of  so  many  shipwrecks,  is  85 
miles  south-east  from  Cape  Canseau,  the  nearest  point  of 
Nova  S«otia. 

The  bore^  or  rush  of  water  at  the  springtide,  is  proverbial 
for  its  violence  in  places  borderinii^  on  this  bay.  At  Chig- 
necto  Bay  its  effect  is  occasionally  terrific  on  the  smaller 
craft,  and  is  frequently  productive  of  accidents,  and  an 
unwelcome  visiter.  Soon  after  midnight  I  was  once  awakened 
by  tho  shout  of  the  boatmen  to  prepare  for  the  approach  of 
the  bore;  presently  I  heard  a  distant  roar  and  the  surging  of 
waves,  gradually  but  rapidly  increasing,  until  every  other 
sound  was  lost  in  it.  The  boat  now  gave  a  sudden  and  heavy 
lurch,  and  quivering  with  the  violenceof  the  shock,  was  borne 
upon  the  surface  of  a  huge  body  of  water.  Then  succeeded 
a  pitching  and  rolling  that  lasted  for  ten  minutes,  when  all 
was  still  again. 

There  is  no  danger  to  be  apprehended  on  these  occasions, 
if  the  boat  is  kept  in  deep  water,  and  with  sufficient  cable  paid 
out;  otherwise,  from  a  neglect  of  such  a  precaution,  when 
the  wave,  or  bore,  strikes,  it  will  make  a  clean  sweep  of  the 
deck,  and  swamp  and  bury  the  boat  and  all  on  board. 

I  once  witnessed  on  shore  its  approach  in  the  day  time. 
The  noifeof  it  was  audible  long  before  any  thing  was  visible. 


^K'^vS- 


Halifax,  ^y 


n 


307 


At  length,  at  the  extremity  of  the  reach  that  bounded  my 
view,  appeared  a  huge  wave  or  wall  of  water,  that  rapidly 
approached  with  a  curled  and  foaming  cregt.  A  sand  bank, 
half  a  mile  in  length,  occupied  the  middle  of  the  river;  in 
two  minutes  not  a  vestige  of  it  remained :  the  wave  sweeping 
over  it  with  irresistible  violence,  now  gained  some  boats 
moo. ed  near  where  I  stood;  these  were  lifted  upon  high, 
and  descended  into  a  troubled  vortex  of  bubbling  waters, 
sand  and  mud,  whilst  the  unbroken  wave  passed  on,  and  dis- 
appeared round  a  projecting  bend,  or  angle,  in  the  bank  of 
the  river. 

A  miniature  representation  of  this  efTect,  or  scene,  may  be 
witnessed  during  the  rapid  passing  of  a  large  steam-boat 
along  the  bank  of  a  strait  or  stream  of  contracted  dimensions 
and  shallow  depth — as  on  the  Hudson  near  Albany,  or  in  pass- 
ing the  straits  near  Hurlgale^  and  the  Kills,  an  arm  of  the  sea 
between  Staten  Island  and  New  Jersey.  But  to  be  witnessed 
in  its  utmost  grandeur  and  extent,  the  observer  should  be  at  the 
head  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  or  on  the  banks  of  the  Severn,  or 
the  Sandit  near  Liverpool,  the  Garonne  in  France  near  Bor> 
deaux,  or  the  mouth  of  the  Hoogley  near  Calcutta. 

The  J5«v  of  Fundy  is  about  50  miles  wide,  and  180  miles 
long,  and  25  to  50  fathoms  deep  in  mid  channel.  Cape  Split 
is  accurately  named,  from  its  weather-beaten  aspect,  its  crumb* 
ling',  isolated  basaltic  pillars,  of  a  sharp  pointed  or  needle  ap' 
pearance,  as  torn  by  the  irresistible  fury  of  the  tides  and 
storms  ;  also  the  Five  Islands,  separated  by  narrow  arms  of 
the  bay.  Partridge  Island,  and  its  covering  of  pendant  ever* 
greens. 


tin 


Halifax, 


''4. 


,:fc  '  ■ 


The  capital  of  the  province,  is  one  of  the  most  convenient 
sea.ports  and  beautiful  cities  on  the  Atlantic  coast.  Its  pub- 
lic and  private  dwellings  present  an  aspect  remarkably  neat 
and  agreeable  to  the  eye. 

The  Province  House  is  a  fine  structure,  and  the  Navy 
Yard  is  extensive  and  complete  in  every  respect. 

Some  parts  of  Nova  Scotia  are  barren,  but  a  large  pro- 
portion is  rich  and  fertile.  There  are  few^  if  any,  better  agri- 
cultural townships  in  America  than  Cornwallis  and  Horton. 
There  is  an  abundance  of  the  best  bituminous  coal  in  Pictou, 


I        ! 


*,  .^A^i>^    i,   1 


308 


»:. 


Halifax. 


mined  to  the  bestadvantnge  by  English  capitaliiti ;  iron  ore 
and  lead  are  aUo  found. 

Piclou  and  Sydney  both  furnish  inexhaustible  supplies  of 
coal  for  the  English  and  American  Atlantic  steamers  that 
may  touch  there  on  the  voyages  to  and  from  Europe. 

The  quartz  rock,  in  the  township  of  Halifax,  constitutes 
those  dreary  and  barren  hills  surrounding  that  city,  that 
havo  been  falsely  considered  fair  epecimena  of  the  soil 
of  Nova  Scotin.  From  the  nature  of  this  ruck,  this  part  of 
the  county  must,  for  ages,  remain  sterile,  and  will  never  com- 
pare with  the  rich  loam  of  the  valley  of  Annapolis,  or  the 
garden  of  Acadia,  Cornwallis. 

Halifax,  fortunately,  is  not  dependent  upon  her  soil  to  yield 
her  bread ;  but  situated  at  the  head  of  one  of  the  most  beau 
tifui  and  safe  harbors  in  the  world,  with  the  romantic  Btd- 
ford  Basin  in  the  rear,  she  possesses  commercial  advantages 
to  which  those  of  no  other  place  in  the  country  can  be  com- 
pared— being  the  chief  rendezvous  and  naval  dep6t  for  the 
British  navy  on  the  North  American  station. 

The  entire  eastern  coast  of  Nova  Scotia  is  formed  of  pri- 
mitive rock,  and  is  deeply  indented  by  inlets  from  the  Atlan- 
tic ocean,  similar  to  the  State  of  Maine,  and  a  large  number 
of  the  inhabitants  are  supported  by  t,iie  fisheries,  cod,  he  ^ 
ring,  &c. 

The  traveler  proceeding  from  the  United  States  to  Halifax, 
who  is  desirous  of  examining  the  principal  rock  formations 
of  Nova  Scotia,  can  easily  arrange  his  route,  viz.  if  he  goes 
by  the  way  of  St.  John's,  (New  Brunswick,)  and  takes  the 
steam-boat  to  Annapolis,  he  may  examine  to  advantage  the 
green-stone  trap- rocks  of  the  north  mountains,  and  the  clay- 
slate  of  the  south  mountains,  in  his  journey  along  the  valley 
of  the  Annapolis  River,  in  which  he  will  travel  between  the 
two  ranges  to  Windsor,  and  then  take  the  country  across 
the  south  mountains  and  the  borders  of  the  sandstone  forma- 
tion to  Halifax.  We  should,  however,  were  it  not  for  the 
convenience  of  the  steam-boat,  prefer  making  our  entrance 
beneath  the  lofty  portals  of  Cape  Split  and  Cape  d'Or,  by 
taking  passage  from  St.  John's  to  Windsor  in  one  of  the 
packets  that  statedly  perform  this  voyage.  Passing  up  the 
basin  of  Mines,  the  tourist  will  behold  some  of  the  most 
sublime  and  beautiful  scenery  that  th,is  country  afibrds,  be- 
sides the  most  striking  geological  phenomena. 

Halifax  reaches  a  mile  and  a  quarter  along  the  harbor,  and 


w 


Ride  from  Pfetc-  York  to  New  B§dford, 


309 


runf  back  from  it  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  The  site  is  an  in- 
clined plane,  rising  from  the  water,  and  commanded  by  the 
fort  that  overlooks  both  town  and  harbor.  The  fort  ii  bomb 
proof;  magazines,  dwellings  are  all  undur  ground.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  bay,  a  little  farther  down,  is  another  fort, 
and  another  slill  on  an  island  a  milo  and  a  half  below  the 
town.  Nature  has  done  mu(  h  toward  making  Halifax  a  place 
of  strength,  and  art  has  done  all  that  is  necessary  to  render  it 
secure.  The  Province  House  is  one  of  the  handsomest  pub- 
lic buildings  in  the  provinces.  It  h  built  of  brown  colored 
free-stone,  handsomely  polished,  with  five  massive  pillars  of 
the  same  material  on  each  of  the  fronts,  and  on  one  front  are 
surmounted  with  the  British  coat  of  arms,  carved  in  the  stone. 
There  is  a  small  green,  with  shrubbery  around  the  building, 
the  whole  enclosed  with  an  iron  railing.  The  lower  fttory  is 
occupied  by  the  warden  and  a  number  of  different  officers. 
The  assembly  room,  court  room,  and  council  chamber  occu- 
py tho  second  and  third.  A  cabinet  of  shells  and  corals  of 
great  beauty  and  value  is  in  the  possession  of  Mr.  Star,  of  this 
place. 


I  i 


Ride  from  New-Tork,  along  the  Connec- 
tiiciit  and  Rhode  Island  shore,  to  New- 
port and  Nei¥  Bedford. 

The  Harlaem  Rail-road  is  the  onljr  one  that  penetrates  the 
centre  of  the  city  of  New-York,  and  is  destined  eventually  to 
be  extended  on  through  Westchester,  Putnam,  Dutchess,  and 
Columbia  Counties,  to  the  city  of  Albany.  The  road  is 
finished  to  Harlaem  River,  eight  miles,  and  extends  from  the 
City  Hall,  at  the  junction  of  Centre  and  Chatham-streets, 
through  Centre-street  and  the  Bowery,  and  the  4th  avenue  ; 
and  at  32d-gtreet,  or  Murray  Hill,  enters  the  first  deep  cutting 
into  the  solid  rock — a  work  of  immense  labor  and  expense, 
that,  in  connection  with  the  high  embankments,  the  great  tun- 
nel under  Prospect  Hill,  of  700  feet  in  length,  30  in  width, 
and  25  in  height,  that  alone  cost  many  thousand  dollars 
and  some  lives,  and  years  of  labor,  made  the  aggregate 
cost  of  this  road  to  be  about  a  hundred  thousand  dollars  per 
mile.  The  capital  is  nowSl}150,000;  the  number  of  passen- 
gers yearly  carried  upon  it  is  800,000— principally  as  a  plea- 


, 


910 


Harlaem —  We$t  Cheater, 


-<t 


sure  jaunt  for  the  citizen8,to  whom  it  offers  a  cheap  reereation ; 
fare  only  23  cents  for  the  eight  miles,  and  rateabiy  for  short 
distances.  The  entrance  to  the  tunnel  presents  a  front  of  60 
feet  in  height  to  the  top  of  the  parapet  in  86lh-street.  The 
hotel  on  the  summit  of  the  Prospect  Hill  gives  from  its 
observatory  a  most  charming  view  of  the  adjacent  gar< 
dens,  and  country  seats  in  the  immediate  vicinity,  occupied 
by  opulent  citizens  of  New-York  and  of  Long  Island,  near  the 
borders  of  the  tumultuous  and  angry  troubled  waters  of  HurU 
gate,  with  the  myriads  of  sloops  and  coasting  vessels,  steam- 
boats, &c.  passing  in  review  at  every  change  of  tide.  No 
stranger,  traveler,  or  sojourner  in  New- York  should  omit  to 
visit  this  spot  and  eiamine  the  tunnel,  and  the  expensive 
works  with  it  connected ;  also  Hall's  Gardens,  near  the  river. 

From  Harlaem,  alter  crossing  the  bridge  of  that  name 
that  terminates  the  3d  avenue,  the  road  enters  Westchester 
County,  and  follows  the  old  stage  and  mail  v>oute  to  the 
Eastern  Stales,  for  six  miles,  to  West  farms j  on  the  Bronx 
River,  a  small  stream  rising  about  25  rniles  north,  and  up  the 
valley  of  which  is  located  the  New-York  and  Albany  Rail-road. 
The  village  here  at  the  head  of  navigation,  three  miles  from 
the  Sound  and  12  from  New- York,  contains  about  60  dwell- 
ings and  several  manufactories,  and  the  tobacco  works  of 
Lorillard. 

"■  Westchester  village,  on  Westchester  Creek,  two  miles 
from  the  Sound  and  14  from  New- York,  has  a  church  and 
40  houses,  a  store,  and  tavern.  This  town  was  settled  in  1642 
by  New  England  people,  with  the  consent  of  the  Dutch.  It 
was  called  by  them  Eastdorp.  There  is  considerable  marsh 
on  the  borders  of  the  Sound  and  the  inlets,  and  on  the  Bronx. 
The  East  and  the  Westchester  Creeks  are  good  mill-streams. 
Marble  is  found  here  in  extensive  beds,  and  much  wrought. 
The  manor  of  Morissania,  originally  containing  above  3,000 
acres,  and  two  to  three  miles  long,  belonging  to  the  Morris  fa- 
mily and  the  descendants  of  the  late  Gouverneur  Morris,whose 
mansion  may  be  discerned  in  passing,  as  a  massive  stone 
house,  with  a  flat  roof,  one -fourth  of  a  mile  south  east  of  the 
public  road,  and  facing  southward  towards  the  waters  of  the 
Sound,  is  passed  by  the  traveler  through  the  centre  of  the 
manor  grounds,  and  in  full  view  of  the  narrow  strait  each 
liide  of  tne  island  towards  the  city. 

East  Chester  village  is  at  the  head  of  a  email  bay,  and  on 


^** 


Ntw  HofhelU^dlmMir^heck* 


m 


the  fork  of  a  creek  f  6  miles  from  New.Tork,  and  ig  a  small 
hamlet  and  cluster  of  15  or  20  dwellings  and  stores. 

New  Rochtlh,  20  miles  from  New-York,  and  one  mile  north 
of  the  Sound,  h&s  three  churches,  as  many  taverns  and  stores, 
and  40 dwellings,  with  a  landing  on  the  Sound,  where  a  steam- 
boat  touches  daily  to  and  from  New-York.  There  are  many 
pleasant  sites  and  choice  residences  in  this  vicinity.  Many 
descendants  of  the  French  population,  that  were  forced  to 
emigrate  a  century  and  a  half  since,  by  the  cruel  operation  of 
the  edict  of  Nanlz,  sought  and  found  a  safe  asylum  in  this  and 
other  towns  in  this  county,  and  their  names  still  prevail.  The 
distinguished  family  of  the  Jays,  at  Bedford,  is  one  of  these, 
besides  numerous  others  in  the  city. 

Mamaronecky  33  milep  from  New. York,  is  on  a  bay  a  mile  or 
two  from  the  Sound,  and  has  two  churches,  two  taverns  and 
stores,  and  two  cotton  factories  and  50  dwellings ;  and  hak 
regular  communication  with  the  city  by  steam-boats  and 
market  sloops. 

Ryty  26  miles  from  New-York,  and  one  fironi  the  Soundj 
has  threo  churches  and  thirty  dwellings,  and  two  academies, 
two  stores,  and  a  tavern.  At  the  landing  on  the  Sound, 
called  Milton,  is  also  30  houses. 

Sawpits,  27  milas  from  New- York,  on  an  arm  of  the  Sound, 
has  two  churches,  two  taverns,  10  stores,  and  100  dwellings, 
and  is  regularly  visited  by  steam-boats  daily,  and  has  naviga- 
tion and  business  that  employs  eight  coasting  vessels. 

White  PlainSj  27  miles  from  New* York,  and  seven  miles 
back  from  the  Sound,  in  the  interior  of  the  county,  has  the 
court-house  and  county  of^ces  of  stone,  an  academy,  a  Pres- 
byterian, Episcopal,  and  two  Methodist  Churches,  60  dwell- 
ings, principally  on  one  street,  four  taverns,  and  a  printing- 
office  and  weekly  paper. 

Leaving  Sawpits^  we  cross  in  a  short  distance  By  ram  River, 
the  boundary  of  Connecticut,  and  enter  the  county  of  Fair- 
field, and  the  township  of  West  Greenwich,  or  Horse-neck,  so 
called  from  a  peninsula  on  the  Sound,  u^^ed  as  a  pasture  for 
horses.  The  road  now  enters  a  tract  of  conntry  quite  wild 
and  savage  in  its  aspect,  large  rocks  being  confusedly  scat- 
tered about.  Several  inlets  from  the  Sound  intrude  to  the 
north,  and  form  landings  at  various  places  where  small 
streams  descend. 

Five  miles  west  of  Stamford  is  Putnam^s  Hill,  where  he 
rode  down  a  sleep  descent  at  full  speed,  at  the  risk  of  his  own 


« 


♦•     s! 


312 


Stamford^  Darien. 


and  the  horsc'g  neck,  when  pursued  by  a  marauding  detach* 
ment  of  the  enemy.  This  daring  and  celebrated  feat  was  cha- 
ractcrisic  of  the  man,  and  enabled  him  to  escape  from  the  foe, 
who,  when  the  dragoons  that  were  close  upon  hira,  arrived  at 
the  verge  of  the  hill,  drew  back  aghast  from  the  pursuit,  firing 
a  farewell  volley  that  sent  a  shot  through  his  hat.  The  road 
has  been  altered  of  late  years,  so  that  the  place  of  his  descent 
can  hardly  be  recognized  j  but  it  was  south  of  the  present 
turnpike,  where  a  few  trees  are  seen  ranging  up  the  ascent. 
A  small  house  and  church  are  near  by. 

Stamford,  36  miles  from  Now- York,  and  also  39  from  New 
Haven,  is  near  a  small  stream  called  the  Mill  River,  that  has 
ei^ht  feet  depth  of  water,  and  admits  sloops  and  coasting 
vessels.  It  has  an  extensive  iron-foundery,  two  churches, 
and  a  cluster  of  houses  where  the  road  crosses  the  river,  and 
700  inhabitants  in  the  village.  A  short  canal  of  180  rods 
long,  30  feet  wide,  and  7  deep,  communicating  with  the  Sound, 
was  made  in  1834,  for  $7,000,  including  three  stores  or  ware- 
houses. There  are  also  10  country  stores,  an  iron>foundery 
and  rolling-mill,  a  wire  factory,  two  large  boot  and  shoe  fac< 
tories,  and  a  bank  with  a  capital  of  $100,000. 

Darierif  three  miles  onward,  is  equidistant  from  New- 
York  and  Now  Haven,  and  is  on  a  small  stream  and  inlet  from 
the  Sound.  During  the  war  of  the  Revolution  in  1781,  a  bodj^ 
of  tories  and  refugees  came  across  the  Sound  from  Lloyd's 
Neck,  in  seven  boats,  and  secreted  themselves  in  a  thick 
•wamp  near  the  church,  and  when  the  congregation  were 
singing  their  first  psalm  in  the  service,  the  cut-throats  rushed 
out  from  their  lurking-place,  surrounded  the  church,  and 
made  prisoners  of  40  men,  tied  them  two  and  two,  placed  the 
minister.  Dr.  Moses  Mather,  at  their  head,  stole  40  horses, 
mounted  them,  and  marched  them  to  the  water  side,  and  put 
them  on  board  two  armed  vessels  that  came  to  for  the  purpose, 
and  that  took  the  whole  to  Lloyd's  Neck  across  the  Sound ; 
from  thence  they  were  soon  after  sent  to  New-York  and  con- 
fined iq  the  provost  or  jail,  where  some  of  them  perished 
miserably,  and  others  returned  after  having  had  the  small-pox, 
and  been  a  long  time  in  continement. 

This"  cruel  and  contemptible  system  of  petty  partizan  war- 
fare  could  not  have  any  beneficial  result ;  the  gratification  of 
private  malice  and  revenge  could  have  been  the  only  object 
in  thus  tearing  away  fathers  from  their  wives  and  children, 
ttod  inflicling  such  enormities. 


NonBolk. 


813 


Korwalk  is  48  milei  from  New-York,  33  from  N«w  Haven } 
haf  100  houses,  2  churches,  a  bank,  one  pottery,  and  two 
newspapers  ;  is  an  active  business  mart  with  the  up  country 
and  coasting  trade,  and  has  a  daily  communication  by  steam- 
boats with  New- York  and  along  shore.  The  valley  by  the 
river  is  handsome,  and  the  hills  have  fine  prospects  of  the 
village  and  of  the  Sound  for  a  lo  g  distance,  and  of  the 
group  of  islands  that  dot  its  surface. 

in  tho  warm  season  of  midsummer,  the  pleasant  farm- 
houses and  agreeable  retreats  that  abound  on  the  borders  of 
the  Sound,  swarm  with  the  lively  denizens  of  the  meiropoUs, 
that  issue  forth  to  enjoy  for  a  short  interval  the  blessing  of 
pure  air  and  green  fields ;  and  this  part  of  Connecticut,  from 
its  many  attractions,  and  the  cheap,  moderate,  and  simple 
style  of  living,  receives  its  full  share  of  city  visiters. 

The  highway  from  New -York  to  New  Haven  passes  alon*^ 
close  to  the  head  of  the  bay  that  opens  to  the  Sound,  four 
miles  distant,  but  the  harbor  is  rather  shoal,  and  vessels  draw* 
ingoversix  feet,  lar.J  at  the  Old  Well,  and  at  the  hamlet  some 
distance  below ;  those  of  lighter  draft  can  get  up  to  the  bridge. 

There  are  seven  hat  factories,  three  potteries,  and  one  car* 
riape  maker  in  (he  village. 

The  Old  Welt  is  so  called  from  vessels  formerly  taking  in 
their  supply  of  water  for  foreign  voyages  from  an  old  well 
or  spring  near  the  margin  of  the  water.  This  is  new  tho 
principal  landing-place  for  steam-boats  for  Norwalk.  There 
are  two  churches  here,  a  cotton  factory,  and  one  for  carpets, 
and  also  the  patent  carpet  company,  commenced  in  1834 : 
they  are  made,  without  spinning  or  weaving,  of  fetlingf  the 
material  that  is  used  for  hats. 

This  town  wa3  burnt  by  the  enemy  in  1779,  in  the  maraud- 
ing and  plundering  expedition  under  Governor  Tryon,  when 
80  dwelling  houses,  two  churches,  17  shops,  87  barns,  four 
mills,  and  five  vessels  were  consumed.  The  loss  was  esti- 
mated by  a  committee  of  the  Legislature  at  $116,338.  Fair- 
field was  burned  a  few  days  previous  by  tho  same  detachment, 
who  had  returned  to  Huntington  harbor.  Long  Island,  when 
they  again  sallied  forth  and  landed  in  the  evening  of  the  Uth 
July,  between  eight  and  nine  o'clock,  on  the  plain  on  the  east 
side  of  Norwalk  River.  Only  six  houses  were  spared  through 
tory  influence.  The  officer  in  command,  Governor  Tryon, 
seated  himself  on  the  top  of  Grummon's  Hill,  a  few  rods  east 
* ,   ^  -  .*' ■''-.  ■■'■  •  ''W,.'  ■  ■' ' 


•H 


ll 


t 


314 


SouQipori^Fatrjield. 


of  the  road  and  creek,  to  glut  his  eyes  during  the  8ce.ie  with 
the  opeclacle  of  destruction. 

After  the  war,  the  sufierers  by  this  cruel  calamity  received 
a  donation  from  Congress,  of  land  in  the  State  of  Ohio,  cf 
adequate  value,  as  a  remuneration.  In  surmounting  many 
of  the  ridges  in  reaching  thus  far,  the  traveler  will  have 
enjoyed  some  of  the  richest  scenery,  and  had  splendid  land 
and  marine  views  of  a  superior  description. 

We  next  encounter  the  small  hamlet  of  JVcstport.  South- 
port  is  at  the  mouth  of  Mill  River,  two  miles  south-west  of 
Fairfield,  and  is  a  flourishing  village  of  70  dwellings,  8  stores, 
an  academy,  bank,  and  a  church,  and  is  said  to  own  more 
shipping,  in  proportion  to  its  size,  than  in  any  other  place 
between  New- York  and  Boston,  having  the  advantage  of  a 
considerably  extensive  and  fertile  back  country,  the  produce 
of  which  is  sent  here  for  shipment.  Its  harbor  is  small,  and 
has  the  merit  of  being  free  of  ice  in  winter;  and  of  being 
accessible  to  vessels  of  100  tons.  A  breakwater  was  made  in 
1831  by  the  United  States,  at  an  expense  of  ^10,000,  to  im- 
pre  "e  and  protect  its  entrance.  The  New-York  turnpike,  or 
main  public  road,  is  one  fourth  of  a  mile  from  the  village. 
The  Episcopal  Church  occupies  an  elevated  and  prominent 
position.    There  are  about  500  inhabitants. 

The  Pequod  Swamp  is  in  the  rear  of  the  village,  where  this 
brave  and  powerful  tribe  of  savages,  fierce,  warlike,  and 
untaraeable,  made  their  last  and  desperate  stand,  in  July, 
1637,  against  the  combined  forces  of  Massachusetts  and 
Connecticut,  under  Captain  Mason,  when  the  poor  Indians 
were  overcome,  and  as  a  tribe  were  here  extinguished.  A 
memorable  spot,  indeed,  on  which  to  muse  on  the  destiny, 
the  rise  and  fall  of  man,  and  of  nations — 100  of  them  surren- 
dered. The  rest,  amounting  to  several  hundred,  resolved  to 
live  or  die  together. 

Fairfield  is  58  miles  from  New-York,  21  from  New  Haven, 
and  four  from  Bridgeport.  The  village  has  100  dwelling-houses 
■ituated  on  one  main  street  and  round  the  public  square  or 
green,  on  which  is  the  court-house  and  jail,  an  academy,  and 
the  Congregational  Church.  It  is  a  half-shire  town,  and 
Danbury,  20  miles  distant,  is  the  other. 

This  village  was  laid  in  ashes  in  the  war  of  the  revolution, 
in  July,  1779,  comprising  then  85  dwellings,  two  churches, 
the  handsome  court-house,  55  barns,  15  stores,  13  shops. 
While  the  town  was  in  fiarnes  a  thuuder-storm  overspread  the 


1 


OreenJUld. 


315 


heavens  Just  as  night  came  on.  The  conflagration  illumined 
the  earth,  the  skirts  of  the  clouds,  and  the  waters  of  the 
Soi!nd  with  a  gloom  and  grandeur  inexpressibly  awful  and 
magnificent — at  intervals  the  lightnings  blazed  with  a  livid 
and  terrible  splendor — the  thunder  rolled  above  the  crack- 
ling and  roaring  of  the  burning  houses  invtitved  in  flames, 
with  explosions  of  cannon  and  firing  of  musketry  answered 
and  reverberated  from  beneath,  with  the  shouts  of  the  ccm- 
bntantSj  and  the  shrieks  of  women  and  children,  to  form  a 
deep  impression.  In  1777  the  British  landed  at  Compo  Hill 
on  the  Sound  in  this  town,  and  marched  to  Danbury,  and  de- 
stroyed the  military  stores  there  collected  for  the  American 
army. 

Greenfield  Hill,  three  miles  north  of  Fairfield,  is  ever  me- 
morable, not  only  for  the  unrivalled  landscape  that  it  com- 
mands of  the  lower  surrounding  country,  that  has  been  im- 
mortalized by  the  Poem  of  " Greenfield  Hill"  from  the  early 
pen  of  the  eminent  President  D  wight,  but  also  by  his  resi- 
dence here  for  several  years,  while  pastor  of  the  church. 
The  house  that  he  built,  and  Occupied,  is  a  few  rods  south  of 
the  church,  and  has  since  been  the  residence  of  Isaac  Bron- 
son,  Esq.  now  deceased.  From  the  highest  ground  in  this 
vicinity,  or  the  belfry  of  the  church,  is  a  surpassingly  fine 
view  of  land  and  marine  scenery,  embracing  the  spires  of  17 
churches,  viz.  two  in  Fairfield,  three  in  Bridgeport,  two  in 
Stratford,  two  in  Milford,  two  on  Long  Island,  and  one  each 
in  Canaan,  Reading,  Northfield,  Green's  Farms,  Southport 
and  Canaan,  besides  five  light-houses,  viz.  Norwalk  Island, 
Eaton's  Neck,  Black  Rock,  Stratford  Point,  and  New  Pasture 
Light ;  and,  in  a  clear  day,  the  East  Rock  Mountain  near  New 
Haven.  There  are  l,*2do  inhabitants  in  this  parish,  that  is 
four  miles  square  and  includes  some  excellent  farmers,  and 
farms  that  average  150  acres  each,  worth,  on  an  average,  $100 
per  acre.  * 

The  assault  and  destruction  of  Fairfield  was  in  the  begin- 
ning of  wheat  harvest,  and  of  one  that  was  cheering  to  the 
farmer.  The  fleet  and  army  of  the  foe  that  had  just  taken 
and  plundered  New  Haven,  appeared  before  this  harbor  at  four 
o'clock  the  next  morning,  and  the  alarm  gun  was  instantly 
fired  from  the  fort  on  Grovers  Hill,  near  the  Sound.  They 
Heemed,  however,  to  be  passing  by,  and  at  seven  o'clock  they 
were  steering  for  New- York,  as  it  appeared,  when  a  very 
thick  fog  came  on  and  concealed  their  movements  till  ten, 


316 


Black  Rtrek— Bridgeport* 


' 


when,  the  mist  dispersing,  they  were  observed  to  be  close  on 
the  western  shore,  near  Kensie's  Point.  They  began  to  land 
at  four  o'clock  at  the  Pines,  and  marched  along  the  beach  to 
a  lane  opposite  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  in  an  hour  para- 
ded on  the  green,  set  their  guards,  and  commenced  the  scene 
of  destruction. 

Black  Rock  harbor,  1^  miles  from  the  Fairfield  Green,  ig  a 
good  harbor,  having  19  feet  of  water,  with  a  light-house  on 
Fair  Weather  Island  on  the  easterly  side,  with  a  small  fort 
commanding  the  entrance  of  the  harbor. 

The  Samp  Mortur  Rock,  three  milea  from  Fairfield  in  a 
north  direction,  is  a  precipice  70  feet  high,  terminating  a 
ridge.  On  its  summit  13  an  Indian  excavation  or  cavity  like 
a  mortar,  used  by  them  for  cracking  and  pounding  their  corn. 
The  valley  at  its  base  was  the  site  of  their  wigwams ;  and  once 
was  populous.  A  man  once  having  lost  his  way,  walked 
off  the  above  precipice  in  the  night,  and  it  is  also  known  as 
OwcfCs  Rock  from  that  circumstance. 

Bridgeport  is  62  miles  from, New- York,  and  17  from  New 
Haven ;  the  harbor  extends  three  miles  up,  where  the  Pe> 
quanock  River,  a  considerable  mill  stream,  comes  in  and 
meets  the  tide.  The  harbor  is  80  rods  wide,  but  at  low  water 
is  so  nearly  bar«,  there  is  a  channel  of  but  12  rods  wide,  with 
13  feet  on  the  bar  at  high  water.  The  bridge  is  75  rods 
long,  where  it  crosses  at  a  mile  and  a  half  above  the  entrance 
of  the  harbor.  The  inhabitants  that  in  1790  were  only  110, 
■mount  at  this  time  to  4,500.  There  are  two  Congregational, 
an  Episcopal,  a  Baptist  and  a  Methodist  Church.  Four  of 
them  having  spires,  and  of  an  aspect  of  some  pretension  to 
taste.    This  city  was  formerly  called  Newfield. 

The  surface  on  which  the  town  stands  is  a  plain  about  12 
feet  above  high  water.  A  second  plain,  called  Golden  Hill, 
begins  north-west  of  the  city  and  gradually  attains  an  eleva- 
tion .50  feet  above  the  lower  town,  and  exhibits  a  space  half 
A  mile  square,  with  a  fine  prospect  of  the  Sound  and  of  the 
viciniiiy.  There  are  two  banks..  The  whale  fishery  is  carried 
on,  and  there  is  a  large  factory  of  carriages  and  saddles ; 
l^reat  activity  in  trade,  and  this  busy  bustling  place  is  fait 
increasing  in  wealth,  comfort,  and  population.  A  rail-road  is 
projected  via  the  valley  of  the  Housatonic,  86  miles  north- 
west, to  West  Stockbridge,  and  another  towards  Sawpitt8,30 
miles  west,  to  be  eventually  extended  to  Harlaem,  and  pro- 
bably another  rail-road  east  to  New  H<«veD,  by  which  the  old 


^^Stratfordr^Milford, 


t 


line  of  land  travel  from  New- York  along  the  Connecticut 
shore  to  New  Haven,  and  thence  via  Hartford  and  Worcester 
to  Boston,  will  be  fully  and  agreeably  restored,  at  it  has  been 
from  New- York  through  New  Jersey  to  Philadelphia,  and 
thence  to  Baltimore,  and  again  made  the  graqd  mail  con- 
veyance. 

The  number  of  passengers  from  New  Haven  and  Bridge- 
port daily  by  steam- boat  to  the  metropolis,  is  estimated  at 
300  or  400,  for  a  portion  of  the  year  of  four  to  five  months,  and 
this  would  be  divided  between  the  land  and  water  routes. 
The  travel  to  Albany  by  this,  though  circuitous,  would  be 
desirable  as  a  change  and  novelty  for  travelers. 

Stratford  is  66  miles  from  Wew-York  and  13  from  New 
Haven ;  the  principal  street  is  a  mile  long  from  north  to  south, 
parallel  with  the  Housatonic,  level,  pleasant,  and  ornamented 
with  shade  trees ;  it  has  a  quiet  rural  aspect,  and  about  200 
dwellings  and  five  churches,  Congregational,  Episcopal,  Me- 
thodist, Baptist,  and  Universalist.  The  Episcopal  Church  waa 
erected  about  a  century  since,  and  is  the  oldest  in  the  State. 
The  Rev.  Dr.  Samuel  Johnson  was  the  first  rector,  and 
the  father  of  Episcopacy  in  the  state  of  Connecticut.  He 
was  born  in  Guilford  and  educated  at  Yale  College,  and  was 
tutor  for  three  years,  went  to  London  and  was  there  ordained 
in  due  Episcopal  form,  in  1723  settled  at  Stratford,  and  in 
1754  was  chosen  President  of  King's,  now  Columbia,  College 
in  New- York,  and  lived  there  nine  years,  and  in  1763  returned 
to  Stratford  and  resumed  the  charge  of  his  congregation,  and 
died  in  1772.  He  was  a  man  of  uncommon  talents  and 
learning,  and  bad  the  degree  of  doctor  of  divinity  from  Ox- 
ford University,  in  England. 

The  house  occupied  by  Dr.  Johnson  still  exists  about  40 
rads  north-west  of  the  church. 

General  VVooster,  of  the  Continental  Army,  who  was  killed 
at  Danbury  in  the  battle  in  April,  177*2,  was  a  native  of  this 
town.  A  large  tract  of  salt  meadow  belonging  to  this  town 
lies  on  the  Sound  and  the  river. 

Milford  is  71  miles  from  New- York  and  nine  from  New  Ha- 
v&n,  and  contains  in  the  town  plot  400  houses  and  2,800  in- 
habitants, 480  freeholders  and  electors.  There  are  two  Con- 
gregational, an  Episcopal,  and  a  Baptist  Church.  The  former 
are  but  a  few  rods  apart,  and  are  separated  by  the  Wepa- 
wany,  a  mill-stream,  passing  through  the  centre  of  the  village. 

At  the  first  settlement  of  this  town  the  Indians  were  nu- 

27* 


1:! 


•J 


318 


^  Milford^Verde  Antique. 


-\ 


inerons,  and  had  four  large  clusters  of  wigwams,  one  at 
the  creek  near  the  church,  one  at  Poconock  Point,  one  half 
a  mile  north  from  the  Washington  Bridge,  and  one  al Turkey 
Hill,  that  was  a  strong  fortress,  with  flankers  at  the  four  cor- 
'  ners,  to  fi^uard  against  the  Mohawks,  their  inveterate  foes. 
They  «oon  after  retired  to  Indian  Point,  and  lived  there  20 
years;  and  the  settlers  and  planters,  to  secure  themselves 
against  the  Indians,  enclosed  nearly  a  mile  square  with  pali> 
sades,  so  close  and  thickly  set  that  a  man  could  not  crowd 
between.  This  was  on  both  aides  of  the  Wanhaweag,  and 
served  to  keep  the  aborigines  in  awe  and  submission,  for  each 
soldier  stood  as  sentinel  every  fifth  day,  and  was  relieved  at 
sun-set  by  beat  of  drum.  The  men  on  Sabbath  and  lecture- 
days  went  armed  to  meeting,  and  to  the  field  labors  at  all 
occasions,  but  no  injury  was  ever  sustained  from  them  by 
the  whites. 

Verde  Antique  JMarble^  of  a  beautiful  quality,  has  been  found 
here  in  the  east  part  of  the  town. 

Milford  Island  lies  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  from  the 
shore,  and  contains  ten  acres  of  land  ;  it  was  called  Poqua- 
haug  by  the  Indians,  and  was  their  favorite  summer  resort. 
It  is  now  owned  by  John  Harris,  and  is  a  desirable  residence. 
The  bar  that  connects  it  with  the  main  rs  bare  at  half  tide. 

On  Poconock,  or  Miiford  Point,  at  the  south-west  extremity 
of  the  town,  is  a  cluster  of  15  or  ^0  huts  covered  with  sea- 
weed, and  occupied  by  60  persons, engaged  in  Ashing,  oyster- 
ing,  &c.  and  is  a  noted  place  for  the  resort  of  the  ceuntry 
people  in  salting-time. 

The  harbor  is  not  deep ;  formerly  it  had  wafer  suiScicnt  to 
admit  sea-brigs  to  Fowler's  Mills,  but  it  has  since  been  gra- 
dually filling  up.  A  break-water  is  proposed  to  be  built 
from  Indian  Point  towards  the  island,  by  which  a  capacious 
harbor  would  be  formed. 

Besides  the  Wepawany,  before  referred  to,  are  the  Indian 
and  Beaver  Rivers,  the  West  End  Brook,  and  Stubby  Plain 
Brook.  In  1648  the  Molinwks  made  a  descent  to  attack  the 
tribes  on  this  coast,  and  while  secreted  in  a  swamp  a  mile 
east  of  the  ferry,  were  discovered  and  attacked  by  the  Mil- 
ford  Indians,  defeated,  and  several  of  them  taken ;  one  of 
the  warriors  was  stripped  and  tied  in  the  great  meadows  for 
the  musquetoes  to  eat  and  torment.  A  Mohawk  chief  was 
buried  on  a  hillock  in  the  iwarop.  Many  of  the  Wcpawanys 


Orange^  or  Wett  Haven. 


3t9 


rk'.^A'ttiC'S'.')!.. 


eventually  W€nC  off,  and  joined  the  six  nationi  in  the  wett ; 
the  tribe  II  now  extinct. 

The  first  settlerg  hore  located  themselves  on  each  side  of 
the  Mill  River  and  West-End  Brook,  for  the  sake  of  water  for 
themselves  and  cattle,  and  erected  frame  houses,  covered 
with  rent  oak  clapboards  in  the  old  lean-to  style,  their  lots 
bcingr  laid  out  in  parallel  narrow  slips  of  three  acres,  to  keep 
compact  in  case  of  hostilities.  A  piece  of  upland  and  aalt 
meadow  was  allotted  to  each  family ;  and  as  the  population 
increased,  the  more  remote  portions  of  the  township  were 
laid  out  and  settled.  In  1640  Wm.  Fowler  was  encouraged 
by  a  grant  of  30  acres  of  land  to  build  a  grist  and  saw-mill, 
and  this  property,  now  very  valuable,  yet  remains  in  the  family. 

Mitford  h  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  Connecticut,  and  was 
begun  in  February,  1639,  and  a  tract,  comprehending  about 
two  miles  of  what  is  now  the  centre  of  the  town,  was  procured 
of  the  natives  for  six  coats,  ten  blankets,  one  kettle,  and  hoes, 
knives,  hatchets,  and  glasses.  Subsequently  other  purchases 
were  made.  Wepawany  was  the  Indian  name.  There  are  no 
mountains,  and  very  little  broken  ur  high  land  in  the  township. 
The  soil  is  good  and  productive,  but  is  managed  in  the  old 
fashion,  and  is  susceptible  of  vast  improvement.  The  shore 
bordering  tho  Sound  is,  as  elsewhere,  bristled  with  rocks,  and 
is  ragged  and  iron*bound  in  general. 

Orange^  formerly  West  Haven^  and  North  Milford,  is  the 
next  intervening  town  between  Milford  and  New  Haven, 
from  which  it  is  distant  to  the  south-west  about  3^  miles. 
The  green  at  Orange  or  West  Haven,  where  are  tho  Congre- 
gational and  Episcopal  churches  of  antiquated  appearance, 
though  formerly  marshes  and  covered  with  elder  bushes, 
is  now  a  pleasant  spot,  and  has  a  peculiar  air  of  neatness 
and  repose ;  and  one  mile  south  is  Savin  Rock,  a  place  of 
resort  in  the  warm  or  salt-bathing  season;  and  here  the 
British  forces  landed  when  they  invaded  New  Haven  in 
1779,  and  their  Adjutant,  Campbell,  a  man  of  fine  personal 
appearance,  was  killed  one  and  a  half  miles  north  of  the 
churches.  There  is  a  silver  mine  in  this  town,  owned  by  Mr. 
Lambert,  and  one  of  copper  in  the  same  range  of  rocks.  There 
are  also  found  coal  and  asbestos  in  the  southern  section  of 
the  town,  and  a  variety  of  minerals. 

The  building  of  the  General  Hospital  of  Conneetieut  will 
be  passed  on  the  suburbs  to  the  south-west  of  New  Haven, 
and  a  new  Catholic  Church  near  by,  before  the  traveler  en- 


.nijt 


East  Haven, 


ten  this  beautiful  city,  that  is  elsewhere  fully  described  in 
this  volume,  (see  page  204.) 

East  Haven  is  reached  in  three  and  a  half  miles  from  New 
Haven  by  crossing  the  bridge  over  the  Quinnipiac  River  at 
the  head  of  the  harbor,  as  we  pursue  our  route  along  the  shore 
east  towards  the  mouth  of  Connecticut  River. 

The  first  iron  works  in  Connecticut  were  begun  in  this 
tc^n  in  1655,  and  continued  '25  years,  and  then  given  up  on 
the  death  of  the  principal  workmen  during  a  great  mortality 
in  1679.  The  furnace  was  supplied  with  bog  ore  from  North 
Haven,  chiefly  carted,  but  occasionally  brought  from  Bog 
Mine  Wharf  by  water  round  to  the  point  below  the  fiirnace, 
and  from  that  fact  the  point  is  called  Bog  Mine.  Agriculture 
and  fishing  are  the  employ menta  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  Congregational  Church  is  of  the  red  sand-stone,  70 
feet  by  60,  erected  in  1773-4,  and  was  considered  to  be  a 
great  and  honorable  work  at  that  day  for  the  inhabitants,  and 
the  entire  completion  was  not  effected  in  several  years. 
There  is  also  a  smal'  Mscopal  church.  In  1797,  in  the 
month  of  October,  (lOi..,)  the  spire  of  the  Congregational 
Church  was  torn  off  by  a  sudden  tornado  or  whirlwind,  oc- 
curring in  a  very  remarkable  way,  at  a  singular  season  of 
the  year  for  such  storms.  The  houses  on  this  road  are  plain 
farmers^  dwellings.  In  the  Quinnipiac,  near  its  mouth,  ia  a 
very  large  and  most  prolific  bed  of  oysters,  that  are  taken  and 
opened,  put  in  casks  and  exported  over  New  England  ;  and 
thisai^crd^  full  employment  at  the  time  to  the  men  and  boys 
in  raking  up,  and  to  the  women  and  children  in  opening  the 
oysters;  and  this  for  a  series  of  years  having  been  found 
profitable,  like  all  regular  employments  for  an  industrious 
people,  it  has,  together  with  a  little  commerce  and  fishing, 
enabled  the  mass  of  the  inhabitants  to  obtain  prosperity, 
wealth,  and  comfort,  aided  by  the  well  known  frugality  of  the 
community.  The  market  of  New  Haven  also  absorbs  all 
their  produce  at  prices  sufficiently  remunerating. 

The  hills  or  ridges  that  come  down  from  the  north  and  ter- 
minate near  the  Sound,  intersect  the  road  as  it  passes  be- 
tween the  Sound  on  one  hand  and  the  hills  on  the  other ; 
and  the  road  exhibits  varying  glimpses  of  the  Sound,  and 
on  the  hills  many  charming  prospects  ;  the  forests  are  oak, 
bickory,  and  chestnut.  The  mineralogy  of  the  hills,  where 
pene^trated  by  the  high-road,  exhibits  the  trap-rock,  jagged, 
irent,  ^ixd  splintered  by  the  elements,  with  the  usual  slope  of 


Branford —  Ouilford, 


m 


debris  at  the  base,  and  the  red  land-stone  frequently  to  be 
•een  underlying  the  base  in  horisontal  strata. 

Fort  Hiilf  «n  the  east  side  of  New  Haven  harbor,  was  oc- 
cupied  as  a  signal-post  on  the  summit,  and  there  was  a  bury- 
ing-place  of  the  Indians  near  the  north  end.  JtfornV  Cove^ 
an  indentation  of  the  shore  near  the  base  of  the  hill  and  Fort 
Hale,  with  the  rocky  projection  of  Five  Mill  Point  surmount- 
ed by  the  light-hoiise,  finishes  the  outline. 

Branford  id  seven  miles  from  New  Haven,  and  has  a  Con- 
gregational and  Episcopal  church  on  a  large  and  open  area 
of  irregular  form,  with  the  burying-ground  adjacent.  The 
surface  of  the  township  is  uneven.  The  harbor  is  small,  but 
convenient  for  vessels  of  40  to  60  tons. 

A  cluster,  called  the  Thimble  Islands,  and  also  the  Indian 
Islands  in  Long  Island  l^ound,  belong  to  this  town,  and  va- 
rious kinds  of  salt  water  fish  are  to  be  had.  Eight  vessels  of 
this  town,  with  50  hands,  are  engaged  in  the  salmon  fishery 
of  the  Kennebec  from  April  to  Jul^. 

J\tomauguiUf  the  sachem  of  this  place  and  of  Quinnipiac, 
sold  the  land  to  the  whites  17  days  after  that  of  New  Haven, 
to  escape,  as  he  said,  the  heavy  taxes  laid  upon  them  by  the 
Mohawks,  and  by  the  Pequods,  a  tribe  near  New  London. 

The  taxeSf  if  any  in  those  days  as  staled,  pnid  by  one  tribe 
in  subjection  to  another,  must  have  been  paid  in  the  strings 
of  wampum  or  shell  money  of  those  days. 

The  white  fish,  a  species  of  herring,  so  fat  and  full  of 
bones  that  they  cannot  be  eaten,  are  used  as  manure,  and 
spread  upon  the  ground  as  they  are  caught  in  seines  in  vast 
quantities.  Ten  thousand  to  an  acre  is  a  rich  dressing ;  nu 
manure  fertilizes  like  this,  although  it  is  foetid  and  disagreea- 
ble if  not  ploughed  in  forthwith. 

Chiifford  is  nine  miles  from  Branford,  and  is  compactly 
built,  but  has  a  public  open  square  in  the  centre,  on  which 
are  an  Episcopal  and  Presbyterian  church  and  four  school- 
houses,  and  is  spoiled  by  a  burying- ground.  There  are  150 
houseg,  a  Congregational  and  an  Episcopal  church,  and  a 
Town-House.  Marks  of  antiquity,  repose,  and  even  decay 
are  but  too  visible ;  but  there  is  one  gratifying  exception,  and 
that  is  a  rarity  in  this  country — we  mean  the  old  itone  house, 
probably  the  oldest  now  standing  in  the  United  States,  erect- 
ed by  the  company  that  first  settled  here  in  1640.  The  leader, 
the  Rev.  Henry  Whitfield,  was  a  minister  of  the  church  of 
England,  but  a  non-conformist,  and  to  please  him  the  stone 


392 


Saolicm^t  Head-— Madison. 


was  brought  on  hand-barrows  from  a  ledge  some  distance 
oif;  the  cement  used  in  the  walls  is  harder  than  the  stone 
itself,  that  has  been  plastered  for  its  preservation.  Mr.  Whit- 
iield  grew  home-sick  and  returned  to  England  in  nine  years 
with  several  others.  It  was  used  as  a  fort  and  place  of  re- 
fuge from  the  savages.  The  first  marriage  that  took  place 
in  the  town  was  in  this  edifice,  and  the  supper  provided  was 
pork  and  peas.  This  venerable  remnant  of  the  olden  time,  tu 
their  credit  be  it  said,  is  now  occupied  and  in  good  repair ; 
long  may  it  remain  unaltered  and  religiously  preserved,  and 
it  will  eventually  be  a  fortune  to  its  lucky  owner.  The  man- 
ners of  the  people  arc  more  primitive  and  pure  than  in  many 
other. places. 

Sa^heni's  Head,  three  and  a  half  miles  south-west,  is  a  wild 
and  picturesque  spot,  and  is  furnished  with  a  good  hotel  and 
ample  accommodations  near  where'^he  8team*boat  lands  its 
freight  and  passengers,  and  in  the  warm  and  sultry  months 
of  summer  no  place  can  l>e  more  attractive  for  the  enjoyment 
of  pure  air,  fishing,  and  seabathing,  and  a  lively  society  such 
/af  collect  here.  There  is  another  establishment  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  the  Congregational  Church  ;  both  are  accessible  to 
■team-boats  in  short  trips  from  New-York,  and  the  towns 
along  shore,  at  moderate  charges. 

The  Great  Plains  are  passed  in  going  to  the  harbor,  that,  it 
must  be  truly  said,  is  shallow  and  encumbered  with  rocks ;  but 
that  of  Sachem's  Head,  two  miles  west,  is  excellent,  though 
small,  land-locked  on  all  sides  but  the  south-west,  the  entrance 
narrow  and  well  known  to  coasters.  Uncas,  the  sachem,  in 
one  of  his  battles  with  the  Fequods  near  by,  cut  off  the  head 
of  a  chieftain  and  stuck  it  in  the  crotch  of  a  tree,  a  large  oak 
near  the  harbor,  where  the  skull  remained  for  many  years— 
hence  the  aptness  of  the  name,  Sachem's  Head — none  could 
be  more  appropriate. 

^.  The  vicinity  of  Guilford  affords  several  fine  views.  White 
fish  are,  as  manure,  laid  in  furrows  and  covered  with  the 
plough,  or  singly  on  hills  of  maize  or  corn,  and  covered  with 
the  hoe,  or  formed  in  compost  heaps  and  spread  as  usual.  A 
single  net  has  taken  in  a  day  a  quarter  of  a  million  of  these 
fish  !  they  are  sold  for  a  dollar  a  thousand,  and  have  a  dura- 
ble efiect  on  the  soil  that  has  enriched  the  farmers  on  these 
shores.  ^ 

Madison,  formerly  East  Guilford,  is  five  miles  from  Gui!- 

j^ord,  and  has  a  Congregational  Church  and  Lee's  Academy, 


<■  i  >.. 


KiUingwor 


-'Lf^'?t  ■'at 


etibrook. 


323 


founded  by  Captain  Frederick  Lee,  that  commanded  the  Re- 
venue Cutter  ofT  New  London  and  the  east  end  of  Lon^ 
Iiland  Sound.  The  houses  are  on  one  street,  a  short  distance 
from,  and  parallel  with,  the  soa  coast. 

Quarries  fur  paving-stones  are  worked  near  the  shore,  and 
ship-building  is  carried  on,  and  charcoal  made,  and  corn,  rjre, 
and  potatoes  exported.  The  white  fishery  begins  about  the 
1st  of  June,  and  is  lucrative  to  those  employed,  and  to  this 
much  of  agricultural  prosperity  is  to  be  attributed. 

KUUngwortk,  or  Kenilworth,  four  miles  from  Madison,  38 
south-east  of  Hartford,  25  from  Now  Haven,  27  from  New 
London,  is  a  neat  town  of  150  houses,  Hitnated  on  a  fine  slope, 
with  a  gradual  descent  to  the  Sound.  The  street  is  a  mile  and 
a  half  long  and  six  rods  wide,  and  on  its  borders  the  houses 
are  principally  arranged  with  good  effect.  The  Indian  name 
was  Hammonassit,  and  every  way  preferable  to  its  present 
erroneous  cognomen  of  Ai^ingworth.  As  a  strong  instance 
of  the  beneficial  influence  of  white  fish  manure  in  this  town, 
a  Mr.  Dibbles  from  fivo  and  a  half  acres  of  land  had  244 
bushels  of  rye,  or  45  to  the  acre.  What  do  you  think  of  that? 
beat  it  who  can. 

Indian  River  crosses  the  street  about  midway,  and  gives  a 
healthful  aspect,  and  it  is  in  summer  a  pleasant  residence. 
The  Indians  long  abounded  and  lingered  here  as  late  as  1740. 

The  south  and  south-west  part  is  a  level  soil  of  loam,  sand, 
and  gravel,  very  productive.  On  the  border  of  the  Sound  is 
a  salt  marsh  of  1,000  acres. 

The  harbor  is  a  mile  off  from  the  street,  is  safe  from  winds, 
and  has  good  anchorage,  but  a  bar  of  only  seven  and  a  half 
feet  water.  There  are  three  ship-yards  on  Indian  River,  a 
small  stream  that  enters  the  harbor ;  five  vessels  are  built 
yearly  on  an  average. 

Rev.  Jared  Elliott,  D.  D.  an  eminent  scholar,  divine,  and 
physician,  and  son  of  John  Elliott,  of  Roxbury,  Moss,  the 
"  Apostle  to  the  Indians,*'  resided  in  this  town,  in  the  old 
house  opposite  the  church.  In  history,  natural  philososo- 
phy,  botany,  and  mineralogv,  he  excelled ;  he  died  in  1763, 
aged  78. 

Weatbrook,  &  point  of  Saybrook,  bordering  on  Kenilworth, 

is  the  next  township,  and  is  a  collection  of  farms  and  of  go- 

^  ber,  industrious  inhabitants  in  comfortable  circumstances. 

I     Saybrook  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  Connecticut  River,  on 

f  the  south  by  the  Sound.   The  hills  here  terminate  one  and  a 


o 


-HI 


Sayhrooh. 


quarter  aailei  from  the  Sound,  and  leave  a  plain  on  which 
the  town  is  built.  The  point  that  was  early  designated  as 
the  site  of  a  town  or  city  about  two  centuries  since,  is  bleak 
and  naked,  and  is  a  peninsula  circular  in  form  and  united  to 
the  main  by  a  narrow  neck,  overflowed  at  times  by  the  tide, 
and  was  secured  from  Indian  attacks  by  a  pallisade  or  stock* 
ade  from  the  river  to  the  cove.  The  soil  is  light  and  sandy, 
and  20  feet  above  tide  on  the  hig-hest  spot. 

The  first  building  erected  for  Yale  College,  when  first  es- 
tablished, was  of  one  story  and  80  feet  long,  and  stood  half 
way  from  the  picket  line  and  the  eastern  point,  and  the  cellar 
may  yet  be  traced  ;  1 5  commencements  were  there  held,  and 
60  young  men  graduated  and  became  clergymen  in  pursu- 
ance of  the  original  design  of  this  college  to  raise  up  young 
men  for  the  ministry  ;  and  in  conformity  to  this,  articles  or  a 
confession  of  faith  were  drawn  up  by  the  clergy  in  1708,  and 
known  as  the  Saybrook  Platform,  or  public  standard.  In  1718 
the  college  was  removed  to  New  Haven. 

In  1632  Lords  Say,  and  Brook,  and  Seal,  and  other  rich 
men  that  were  restless  and  disgusted  with  the  mismanage* 
ment  of  civil  and  religious  matters  in  England  in  the  days  of 
Charles  I.  procured  a  patent  under  the  great  seal  of  all  that 
territory  "  West  from  Narragansett  River  120  miles  on  the 
^ea>coaat,  and  thence  in  latitude  and  breadth  to  tho  South 
Sea."  In  1639  Colonel  Fen  wick,  one  of  the  patentees  or 
owners,  arrived  to  superintend  the  company's  affairs,  and 
remained  until  1644,  when  he  sold  out  his  patent  to  the  Con- 
necticut colony,  and  returned  to  England,  not  being  satisfied 
or  pleased  with  the  soil  or  the  climate,  and  the  hardships  of 
this  country,  and  having  lost  his  wife,  whose  monument  yet 
exists  30  rods  scuth-west  of  the  point  or  site  of  the  old  fort. 
This  fort  was  long  garrisoned  with  care,  as  commanding  the 
grant  river  of  the  country,  and  had  two  cannon  mounted  that 
sjffiead  to  deter  the  Dutch  from  their  attack  in  1635,  and 
was  of  UBB  in  the  war  with  the  Pequot  Indians  to  keep  them 
in  awe  and  to  protect  the  inhabitants.  In  1675,  Major 
Andross,  on  the  8th  of  July,  came  with  several  armed  sloops 
to  demand  a  surrender  of  the  charter  and  this  military 
post  to  the  Duke  of  York,  but  Captain  Bull,  of  Hartford, 
with  a  military  company  was  on  the  stpot  in  time,  and  not  to 
be  bull! 3d  so  easily  out  of  such  rights. 

▲bout  two  centuries  ago,  the  land  on  the  point  yvas  laid 
out  with  care  for  a  mik  around,  when  Hampden,  and  Crom 


Kb 


Route  up  the  River  to  Hartford. 


325 


well,  and  the  great  men  and  lofty  spirits  of  that  age  thought 
of  emigration  to  this  remote  spot  to  escape  tyranny  and  perse- 
cution. The  principal  street  is  facing  the  Sound,  and  is  one 
mile  in  extent,  with  some  neat  and  elegant  houses,  and  others 
that  have  a  more  time  worn  antiquated  appearance.  The 
river  steam-boats  call  at  the  landing  on  their  way  from  Hart- 
lord  to  New-York  daily.  >  ^  .  ^.     ;— 


Route  up  the  JFtiver  to  Hartford,  45  luiles. 

The  Connecticut  biver  is  one  mile  wide  between  Say- 
bropk  and  Lyme.  Ljpide's  Poinl^  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
on  the  west  shore,  is  a  most  valuable  property,  nearly  en- 
vironed by  the  waters  of  the  Sound  and  the  river,  and  only 
requiring  a  fence  at  the  neck  to  prevent  cattle  straying.  Tne 
soil  is  rich  from  the  drift,  sea-weed,  and  fish  secured  upon 
its  shores ;  and  its  surface  \*  pleasing. 

The  next  landing-places  for  steam-boats  ascending  Con- 
necticut River,  are  Essea:,  or  Peltipaugt  7  miles;  EastHad- 
dam,  13;  Haddam,  Higgenam,  Middle  Haddam,  2  ;  Mid- 
dletown,  9;  Upper  Houses,  2;  Stepney,  or  WelhersfielH, 
on  the  west,  and  Glastenbury  on  the  east,  4 ;  Hartford,  8. 

The  steaiu-boats  from  New-York  generally  pass  up  this 
route  in  the  night;  those /row>  HartJord  to  New-York  in  the 
day  time  ;  the  usual  fare  two  dollars.  The  shores,  for  a  few 
miles  near  the  riouth,  are  varied  in  character,  from  low  to 
hilly  and  rocky,  with  here  and  there  islands  and  meadows, 
subject  to  overflow,  a»  near  Esi>ex,  the  first  landing  on  the 
west, — a  cluster  of  houses",  »  church,  &c,  on  an  elevation. 
This  place  was  attacked,  and  some  damage  (!one  by  the 
enemy,  in  the  destruction  of  shipping,  during  the  war  of  1813. 

On  the  9th  of  October,  1832,  at  this  landing,  the  steam  - 
boat  New  England,  a  new  boat  with  copper  boilers,  ex- 
ploded, and  above  20  lives  were  lost. 

In  stretching  across  a  wide  reach  of  the  river  to  the  east 
side,  we  approach  close  upon  its  borders ;  an<'  also  near  a 
rock  that  an  Indian,  a  son  of  the  Mohcgan  chief  Uncas,  leaped 
from  into  the  stream  to  escape  pursuit. 

At  the  landing-place  at  East  Haddam  is  u  house  belon2in,tr 
to  the  Champions,  tliat  is  mofn  curiously  nestled  among  the 
■teep  rocks.     Th'e  Moodu!^  nmtes,  a  subte'^rantan  aound  or 

28 


'    • 

1     '                                             '   ■ 

326 

Route  up  the  Riaer  to  Hartford. 

shaking,  are  yet  heard  or  felt  at  intervals  in  this  vicniity.  Wn 
next  pass  in  review  the  landing-places  ofHaddam,  Higgenun), 
and  Middle  Haddam,  the  former  being  on  a  slope,  backed  by 
a  ran  """  of  hills ;  the  foreground  diversified  by  orchards  and 
cult"  tion.  The  latter  place  is  of  a  similar  character,  but 
of  more  romantic  features  as  we  approach  the  sudden  turn  to 
.he  west,  where  the  river  breaks  through  the  mountains  at 
the  Narrows,  and  unfolds  a  new  scene,  a  distant  view  of  Mid- 
dletown,  one  of  the  pleasantest  cities  on  the  river,  31  miles 
from  Saybrook,  15  from  Hartford,  25  from  New  Haven;  whli 
a  population  of  over  3,500;  seven  churches,  two  Congrega- 
tional, one  Episcopal,  one  Baptist,  one  Methodist^  one  Uni- 
versalist,  one  African.  The  Wesleyan  (Methodist)  University 
occupies  a  prominent  position,  and  is  seen  to  advantage  as 
we  approach.  It  has  a  president  and  four  professors,  a  valu- 
able library,  cabinet  of  minerals,  apparatus,  &c.  and  152 
students.  In  this  city  there  are  manufactories  of  cloths, 
cotton  goods,  combs,  axes,  tin  ware,  swords,  pistols,  powder, 
paper,  mathematical  instruments,  machinery,  &c.  There  are 
a  court-house,  jail,  alms-house,  custom-house,  two  banks. 

The  extensive  quarries  of  free-stone  are  seen  on  the  east 
shore,  in  the  remote  hills  of  Haddam,  Chatham,  &c.  The 
environs  of  this  place  are  delightful;  the  heights  back,  four 
miles  west,  are  800  feet,  the  intervals  rich  and  well  cuiti 
vated.  To  Laurel  Grove  and  the  Falls  in  Middlesex  is  a  plea- 
«ant  ride :  also  three  miles  north  to  the  Upper  Houses,  and  at 
this  commanding  eminence,  and  at  Stepney,  are  beheld  a 
part  of  those  fertile  meadows  and  rich  lands  that  line  the 
banks  of  the  Connecticut  for  300  miles.  For  Hartford  and 
environs,  see  page  214. 


Route   to  the  £ast  returned. 

Li/me  is  built  on  a  single  street,  halfa  mile  back  from  and  p.!- 
rallel  with  the  river,  and  is  15  miles  from  New  London  and  38 
from  Nevv  Haven,  40  from  Hartford  and  117  fnom  New-York. 
Like  the  opposite  town,  Saybrook,  it  occupies  a  plain  of  a 
mile  that  is  fertile  and  agreeable,  but  the  nearest  hills  are 
rude  and  rocky,  and  as  the  rOad  crosses  these  ridges  in  our 
course  to  the  east,  it  is  rough  and  unpleasant,  and  the  soil  is 
scant.  There  are  one  cotton  and  two  woolen  factories,  and 
one  church  with  a  ipire.    The  Lyme  hills  extend  north  into 


«  I  r 


Route  to  the  Eatf.  retttmed. 


zm 


Massachusetts,  and  form  a  dividing  line  between  the  waters 
of  the  Connecticut  on  the  west,  and  Thames  on  the  east.  The 
lait  marshes  and  meadows  are  extensive  and  productive. 

There  was  formerly  a  reserve  of  land  for  the  Nahantic 
Indians,  of  400  acres,  and  a  difference  arose  between  the 
towns  of  Lyme  and  New  London  as  to  the  quantity  to  be 
allotted  to  each  town,  or  as  to  a  line  ofdivision,  and  it  was 
agreed  to  leave  it  to  the  wager  of  battle,  to  be  decided  by  two 
champions  from  each  town.  Pickets  and  Latimer  from  New 
London,  and  Griswold  and  Ely  from  Lyme.  They  met  and 
fought  with  their  fiats,  till  victory  was  awarded  to  the  latter, 
and  Lyme  took  quiet  possession,  and  has  held  it  to  this  time. 
Matthew  Griswold  and  Roger  Griswold,  Governors  of  Con- 
necticut in  1784  and  1811,  were  born  in  Lyme. 

Nahantic  Bay  is  an  arm  of  the  sea,  and  has  a  bridge  that 
was  the  first  in  the  State  authorized  to  collect  toll — before 
that  it  was  a  rope  ferry,  and  considered  troublesome  and 
dan/zerous. 

Waterford  is  three  miles  from  Lyme,  and  has  two  woolen 
factories,  and  a  granite  quarry,  al  which  many  workmen  are 
employed.  There  are  three  Baptist  Churches,  one  of  them 
being  of  the  seventh-day  order,  observing  the  Jewish  Sabbath, 
Saturday,  instead  of  Sunday. 

New  London  is  admirably  situated  about  three  miles  north 
of  the  Sound,  on  the  rocky  extremity  of  a  peninsula  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  river  Thames,  or  Quinebaug,  on  one  of  the 
best  harbors  in  the  United  States,  with  ample  depth  of  water, 
and  seldom  frozen.  It  has  considerable  coasting  and  foreign 
trade  with  the  West  Indies. 

The  city  has  two  Congregational,  one  Episcopal,  one  Bap- 
tist, and  one  Methodist  places  of  worship  ;  three  banks,  two 
insurance  offices,  and  a  population  of  4,5(30.  The  whaling 
and  fishing  business  is  extensively  pursued,  employing  a 
capital  of  a  million  of  dollars,  and  30  to  40  ships,  and  a  thou- 
sand men  and  boys,  and  is  a  capital  nursery  for  seamen. 

The  Fort  Trumbull  on  the  west,  and  '^ort  Griswold  on  the 
east  side  of  the  river,  composes  its  defence ;  the  latter  is  going 
to  decay.  In  1646  the  settlement  of  this  town  began  by  the 
English — among  them  was  John  Winthrop,  Esq.  Governor. 

The  Indian  name  of  Namcaug,  or  Towawog,  is  lost  or 
merged  in  its  present  misnomer.  Pequot,  the  name  of  the 
fierce  aborigines  that  formerly  occupied  this  tract  of  country, 
that  were  to  barbarously  e.'ttirpated  at  a  blow,  ai  mentioned 


328 


Fort  Gritusold. 


in  page  390,  should,  in  justice  to  a  brave  and  warlike  race, 
Imve  been  preserved  in  the  name  of  the  place  as  a  memorial. 

There  is  a  capital  view  of  the  city  and  the  vicinity  to  bd 
obtained  from  the  high  ground  in  the  rear  of  the  capacious 
harbor  and  waters  of  the  Sound,  and  the  distant  shores  ot 
Long  Inland,  that  appear  to  ijreat  advantage,  enlivened  by  the 
steam-boats  anfi  coasting  craft.  Daily  communication  is  held 
with  the  city  of  New- York. 

A  rail-road  has  recently  been  formed  northward,  up  the 
%'alley  of  the  Quinnaboug  to  Norwich  and  the  rich  manufac- 
turing towns,  uniting  with  the  Boston  rail-road  at  Worcester, 
Massachusetts,  70  miles. 

It  16  a  half  shire  town  fur  this  county,  and  has  the  county 
buildings,  but  the  private  residences  generally  have  not  much 
to  boast  of;  the  recent  ones  are  more  elegant.  The  city,  besides 
rising  hke  a  phcenix  from  its  own  ashes,  as  it  has  done  since 
the  war  of  the  Revolution,  is  now  being  built  from  its  own 
granite  that  is  the  basis  of  the  city,  and  forms  the  best  material 
that  can  be  desired.  U  is  53  miles  east  of  New  Haven,  42 
south-east  of  Hartford,  13  south  of  Norwich,  and  133  north- 
east of  New- York.     Latitude  41°  0'  25''  N. 

The  city  was  assaulted  by  the  enemy  under  the  traitor 
Arnold,  in  1781,  who  burnt  all  the  stores,  and  the  most  valu" 
ble  part  of  the  town,  and  some  shipping,  but  the  rest  were 
eaved  by  being  moved  up  the  river  a  few  miles.  The  enemy 
staid  but  a  few  hours,  and  then  made  a  hasty  evacuation  of 
the  ill-fated  town. 

Fort  Griswoldf  at  Groton^  was  gallantly  defended  for  a  time 
by  200  militia-men,  hastily  drawn  up,  under  Col.  Ledyard,  but 
was  carried  at  the  point  of  the  sword,  and  the  colonel  and  85 
men  basely  murdered  after  they  had  ceased  to  resist.  When 
the  battle  and  carnage  had  ended,  the  enemy  collected  the 
wounded  and  dying  Americans  and  threw  them  intoawagoa 
and  sent  it  rolling  full  speed  down  the  long  steep  hill, 
firing  at  it  at  the  same  time  out  of  fiendish  malice  and  love  of 
cruelty.  65  dwelling  houses,  the  abodes  ot  97  families.  31 
stores,  18  shops,  20  barns,  and  nine  public  and  other  build- 
ings, tho  jail,  court-house,  and  church,  la  all  143,  \rere 
destroyed 

The  monumantnl  pillar  on  tho  apex  of  Groton  Hill,  that 
commemorates  this  bloody  affair,  is  130  feet  above  tide-water, 
and  the  shaft  127  feet  high  ;  the  pedestal  is  20  feet  high  and 
23  feet  Bi]uare  ;  the  obelisk  92  feet  high,  22  fctt  square  at  the 


'.'  Sastaeus^Forter^i  Rockt. 


329 


base,  and  11  at  the  summit,  and  is  ascended  by  165  stone 
steps  inserted  in  the  outer  wall,  and  rising^  in  acirctilar  forr.i, 
the  inner  ends  bv  an  iron  rail  and  banister.  The  cost, 
$11,000,  was  raised  by  lottery,  and  the  erection  efTected  in 
1830 — a  suitable  inscription  on  a  marble  tablet  is  placed  over 
the  entrance.  Every  person  visiting  New  London  should 
ascend  the  monument  to  the  top  to  enjoy  the  superb  pano- 
rama exhibited  from  the  dizzy  height. 

Sassacus,  the  sachem  of  the  Pequot  tribe,  had  his  royal 
residence  on  a  commanding  hill  south-east  of  Fort  Griswold, 
that  was  their  principal  fort;  another  was  to  the  north-west 
near  Mystic  Riv3r.  The  Pequot  Hill,  about  eight  miles  north- 
east from  New  London,  where  the  first  decided  battle  took 
place  between  the  English  and  the  aborigines  of  New  Eng- 
land, will  be  ever  memorable. 

Porter  s  Rocks,  on  the  shore  of  Mystic  River,  arc  half  a 
mile  south  of  Eldridge's  house,  and  the  same  distance  from 
the  village  at  the  head  of  Mystic  River,  where  Capt.  Mason 
and  his  companions  in  arms  lay  the  night  before  attacking 
the  Pequot  fort,  that  was  two  miles  to  the  south-west.  The 
savages  were  completely  surprised,  their  fort  entered,  wig- 
wams burnt,  and  the  terror  that  the  name  of  Sassacus  and 
his  Pequots  ha'^  excited,  was  set  at  rest  by  77  brave  de- 
voted men,  that  fought  for  posterity,  as  after  the  battle  the 
Indians  did  not  gne  trouble  for  40  years.  Sassaciis,  Monon- 
olto,  and  their  chief  counsellors  and  warriors  burnt  their 
remaining  fort,  and  abandoned  the  land  of  their  ancestors. 

From  Fort  Hill,  near  Mr.  Burrows'  house,  where  the  Indians 
so  long  held  undisputed  sway,  is  a  panoramic  view  that  em- 
braces 15  towns,  four  counties,  three  States,  20  islands,  part 
of  the  city  of  New  London,  Stonington,  Fort  Griswold,  the 
lofty  monument,  seven  light-houses,  with  rivers,  bays,  &c. 
Thither  resorted  the  women  and  children,  and  non-combat- 
ants from  the  surrounding  country,  and  beheld  the  appalling 
light  of  the  burning  of  New  London,  and  the  destruction  of 
their  fathers,  brothers,  and  neighbors. 

Portersrille  and  Lower  Mystic  are  both  on  the  river,  the 
former  on  the  east,  and  the  latter  on  the  west  side  of  Mystic 
River  or  inlet,  and  connected  by  a  toll-bridge  a  mile  below 
the  head  of  the  bay,  and  two  miles  from  itM  mouth,  and  seven 
cast  of  New  !<ondon.  The  river  is  the  boundary  line  between 
Groton  and  Stonington.  The  two  villages  conta!  160  dwell- 
ing houses,  10  stores,  two  taverns,  and  a  neat  church  in  For- 

28* 


nip  i 


14  m 

m  'if 


ml 


hji3  * 


330 


Sionington, 


i 


tersville,  open  to  all  denominations.  Vessels  of  400  tons  can 
get  to  tho  bridge ;  several  nvhale  ships  and  coasting  vessels 
are  owned  here,  as  are  many  of  the  wreckers  that  cruise  along 
the  Keys  and  coast  of  Florida  and  tho  Bahamas,  and  the 
fishing  smacks  that  fish  off  the  coast  for  the  Spaniards  in 
Cuba,  having  the  monopoly  of  that  trade  for  Havana,  and 
this  employs  300  men  and  boys.  Ship-building  is  also  here 
carried  on. 

Sionington  occupies  a  narrow  rocky  point  of  land,  half  a 
mile  long  and  a  quarter  broad,  and  is  a  semi-ellipsis  that  from 
the  centre  declines  every  way  with  a  graceful  arched  slope 
to  the  shore,  but  is  inconveniently  annoyed  by  a  super- 
abundance of  rocks.  There  are  150  dwelling-houses  and 
stores,  1,300  inhabitants,  a  Congregational  and  a  Baptist 
Church,  two  academies,  one  bank.  Sealing  and  whaling  voy- 
ages have  been  fitted  out  here,  and  resulted  favorably.  The 
wharves  are  built  of  stone,  and  a  breakwater  has  been  made 
at  the  expense  of  the  United  States,  that  cost  $50,000.  Tho 
Wodawannuek  House  is  the  best  hotel. 

It  is  12  miles  east  of  New  London,  and  45  south-west  fron 
Providence,  145  miles  north-east  of  New-York,  from  whence 
the  fastest  steam-boats  can  make  the  passage  in  10  to  IS 
hours,  and  the  rail  road  trains  to  Boston  in  foui-  to  five  houro, 
The  cost  of  the  rail-road  was  $40,000  per  mile.  The  travei 
on  this  route  is  very  great,  and  when  the  Long  Island  rai^ 
road  is  completed,  and  a  ferry  established  from  Stonington 
for  20  miles  across  the  Sound  to  Greenport,  on  the  north 
prong  of  the  eastern  extremity  of  Long  Island,  much  of  the 
travel  will  be  attracted  that  way.  Fisher^ s  Island,  Plumb 
Island,  &LC.  at  the  eastern  part  of  Long  Island  Sound,  act  as 
breakwaters  from  the  heavv  swells  and  storms  of  the  Atlantic, 
that  at  times  render  the  outside  passage  round  Point  Ju- 
dith insecure. 

The  marine  situation  and  other  causes  have  tended  to 
affiliate  the  people  to  a  sea.faring  life,  and  Stonington  is 
famous  for  having  produced  enterprising  and  capital  seamen. 

The  attack  and  bombardment  that  this  town  sustained  in 
1814,  on  the  9th  August,  from  a  British  squadron  under 
Hardy,  has  given  this  place  a  celebrity  and  popularity,  from 
the  brave  and  successful  defence  made  by  the  inhabitants  and 
local  militia,  that  it  would  otherwise  not  have  attained.  That 
a  74  gun-ship,  and  a  38  gun-frigate,  and  22  gun-brig  should 
waste  their  powder  and  cannon  balls  in  attacking  unawares  a 


T  n  1 


Paueatuek  River. 


331 


placa  10  exposed  and  feebly  armed  for  defence  at  was  this 
quiet  village,  appears  at  this  time  as  rather  derogatory  to  tho 
fame  of  the  attacking  force,  under  such  a  disparity  of  physical 
strength  ;  but  happily,  the  citizens  finding  the  danger  immi- 
nent, and  aided  by  a  hasty  call  on  all  capable  of  fighting, 
rallied  and  prepared  for  a  desperate  struggle  that  was  to  be 
encountered.     Only  one  hour  was  allowed  to  remove  the 
aged  and  the  young,  and  all  non-combatants  and  such  valua- 
ble effects  as  could  be  secreted  or  carried  off.     The  attack 
commenced  at  8  o'clock  in  the  evening  by  a  discharge  of  shells, 
rockets,  and  carcasses,  that  lasted  till  midnight,  and  in  the 
meantime  the  cannonading  and  the  brilliant  display  of  fire- 
works had  alarmed  the  country  for  miles  around,  and  the 
militia  poured  in  to  share   in  the  glory  of  the  defence,  and 
after  the  first  panic  had  subsided,  order  and  confidence  began 
to  prevail  attd  all  idea  of  the  landing  of  the  enemy  was  given 
up,  as  tfc  e  country  was  aroused,  and  no  fears  of  a  descent  after 
the  boats  had  once  been  repelled.     Few  lives  were  lost  on  our 
own  part — some  trifling  damage  was  sustained  by  the  shot 
that  came  on  shore. 

Paueatuek  River  divides  the  State  of  Connecticut  from 
Rhode  Island,  and  at  the  bridge  is  a  small  village  in  Rhode 
Island  of  50  houses,  and  in  five  miles  is  Westerly,  and 
a  bank  of  small  capital  of  $100,000.  The  inha'jitants  are 
supported  by  their  maritime  pursuits  ;  the  agriculture  is  tri" 
fling  in  amount,  and  grows  of  le»g  importance  as  we  approach 
the  rocky  and  sterile  shores  of  the  east.  Excellent  fisheries 
and  fish  abound  on  the  river,  that  in  the  bay  at  the  mouth  of 
Paueatuek  are  found  in  as  much  perfection  as  in  any  part  of 
New  England,  on  this  rocky,  iron-bound  coast,  so  favor- 
able for  lobsters,  black-fish,  eels,  bass,  &c.  Oysters  and 
clams  are  in  abundance,  and,  in  the  season,  shad,  and  all  the 
delicacies  of  the  ocean,  tempt  and  gratify  those  fond  of  fishing 
as  an  amusement.  The  land  being  hilly  and  stony  or  sandy, 
yields  but  a  scanty  supply  of  food,  but  the  deficiency  is  sup- 
plied as  above-mentioned. 

Many  large  ponds  abound,  as  Babcock's,  Canaguotoag,  and 
Pawwauget,  and  Charlestown  Pond,  near  Point  Judith,  all 
being  inlets  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  On  the  north  side  of  the 
road,  as  we  proceed  through  Westerly  and  Charlestown,  are 
large  ponds  or  lakes  of  fresh  water,  as  Chapman's,  Fairfield, 
Watchoag,  Warden's,  and  others,  yielding  fish  and  aquatic 
birdi,  and  ample  amusement  to  sportsmen. 


«'  m 


n 


M 


lid'  NarrttganttU  Indians. 

The  lands  in  Charlestown  are  better,  and  have  easy  slopes 
and  plains,  that  are  more  smooth,  fertile,  and  agreeable  to  the 
eye — the  inlets  on  the  coast  are  dirided  and  protected  from 
the  ocean  by  a  narrow  beach  of  sand  and  rocks ;  on  the  north 
side  of  the  road  the  hills  present  a  face  either  rocky  or  sandy, 
and  forbidding,  until  at  South  Kingston  a  change  occurs  for 
the  better  in  the  agricultural  aspect  of  the  country  ;  the 
road  turning  to  the  north,  proceeding  a  few  miles,  then  to 
the  east,  and  across  a  river  and  a  hill  of  a  fine  slope,  we 
are  on  (he  Canonicut  Ferry,  an  inlet  from  the  sea,  part  of 
Narraffsnsett  Bay. 

The  tribe  of  Narragansett  Indians  was  formidable  for  their 
bravery  and  their  numbers,  that  at  one  time  was  estimated  at 
20,000,  and  their  warriors  at  4,000;  their  country  included 
the  most  of  the  present  State  of  Rhode  Island,  the  best  fishing 
grounds,  and  every  desirable  requisite  to  sustain  a  dense 
Indian  population. 

In  the  war  of  1675  between  the  English  and  the  Indians 
under  the  influence  of  Philip,  the  Narragansetts,  out  of  fear, 
took  a  neutral  position  ;  but  the  English  settlers,  doubting 
their  sincerity,  and  mistrusting  them  as  friends,  determined 
to  be  before  them  in  anticipating  their  hostilities,  and  resolved 
on  their  destruction  in  November,  and  raised  troops — Massa- 
chusetts 527,  Connecticut  315,  Plymouth  158,  and  150  Indians 
of  the  Moheagana  and  Fequods,  the  rivals  and  foes  of  the 
Narragansetts. 

The  combined  forces  being  assembled  on  the  18th  of  De* 
cember,  the  next  night  was  cold  and  stormy  ;  snow  fell  deep, 
and  there  was  no  shelter,  yet  early  on  the  19th  they  advanced 
against  the  savages  that  were  concentrated  in  what  is  yet 
called  Indian  Swamp,  between  Watchoag  and  Cockanhoag 
Ponds  and  Charles  River,  a  branch  of  the  Pawcatuck  joining 
the  ocean  at  Watch  HUly  the  swamp  being  four  miles  north 
of  the  traveled  road  before  described  between  Westerly  and 
Charlestown.  On  an  island  of  five  acres,  in  the  midst  of  this 
dismal  swamp,  that  they  had  enclosed  with  palisades  and 
brush,  the  brave  Indians,  2,000  choice  warriors,  lay  in  se- 
curity, and  had  a  thousand  muskets,  with  powder  and  ball, 
besides  bows  and  arrows,  and  had  collected  all  their  strength, 
and  their  women  and  children,  and  stock  of  provisions. 

Guided  by  a  traitor  Indian,  the  little  array  advanced  to  the 
assault,  and  reached  the  fort  while  the  Indians  were  at  dinner 
at  mid 'day,  in  deep  security,  not  expecting  in  the  least  this 


Bay  of  Narragansett, 


333 


gudden  outbreak  of  English  vengeance  and  deadly  hate.  The 
entrance  was  only  by  h  log^,  over  a  ditch  ;  the  palisade  was 
(•urrounded  by  a  thick  hedge  of  bushes  and  branches  of  trees, 
and  as  the  alarm  had  been  given  by  a  party  that  was  in  th(^ 
Hnamp,  and  had  been  driven  in,  the  approach  was  guarded, 
and  they  tried  another,  where  some  trees  impeded  thorn,  and 
a  block-house  in  front  frowned  upon  them,  and  mowed  down 
very  fast  these  desperate  heroes  that  dashed  forward ;  but 
the  Indians  drove  back  the  assailants  M'ith  a  {^laughter  that 
told  tremendously,  and  would  have  terminated  the  conflict  in 
their  favor,  but  the  Connecticut  troops  moving  round,  and 
having,  while  the  battle  was  raging  in  front  of  the  block* 
house,  effected  an  entrance,  unseen  by  the  Indi^  ns,  through 
the  palisades,  poured  in  with  deadly  aim  a  nflirderous  fire, 
and  the  exclamation  from  an  officer,  ''  they  run !"  gave  fresh 
courage  to  the  English,  and  after  a  short  struggle  they  forced 
the  Indians  into  the  open  field,  where  the  battle  lasted  two 
hours,  but  the  Indians  fled,  and  their  fort  and  vvigw«i»s  were 
fired  and  destroyed.  Eight  of  the  captains,  and  210  of  the 
privates  were  killed;  and  of  the  aborigines,  1,000  were  de- 
stroyed, and  600  taken  prisoners,  and  2,000  escaped  and 
joined  the  hostiles  under  King  Philip. 

Canonicut  Island,  opposite  Newport,  is  one  mile  broad  and 
seven  long,  and  is  a  handsomely  formed  spot,  with  a  good 
soil,  and  afibrds  many  extensive  views  of  oceanic  grandeur. 

The  bay  of  Narragansett  is  25  miles  long  and  15  broad,  and 
is  formed  by  the  influx  of  the  Taunton  and  Pawtucket  Rivers, 
and  contains  Rhode,  Canonicut,  Prudence,  Patience,  Hog, 
Dutch,  Gould,  and  Hope  Islands,  besides  others  of  less  size 
and  importance.  Block  Island  also  is  attached  to  this  State ; 
200  square  miles  of  water  in  the  bay,  and  90  square  miles 
of  islands.  1,300  in  the  State — total,  1,G00  square  miles. 

The  harbor  is  deep,  and  every  way  preferable  to  any  other 
in  the  United  States  as  a  naval  rendezvous  anddep6t,  and  of 
ample  size,  and  is  strongly  fortified  by  new  works  erected  by 
Col.  Jos.  G.  Totten,  of  U.  S.  Engineers.  It  is  never  frozen, 
and  is  accessible  in  all  winds  from  any  point  of  the  compass, 
and  has  the  best  anchorage,  &5.  The  British  and  French 
fleets  alternately  held  the  mastery  of  it  for  several  years  of 
the  American  war,  and  gave  it  up  reluctantly. 

In  fact,  the  French  government,  in  1780,  made  propositions 
to  Congress  to  have  Newport^  or  that  island  on  which  it 
stands,  ceded  to  tliem  in  perpetuity,  also  the  jewel  of  a  har- 


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334 


y  Newport. 


bor  was  modestly  included ;  but  the  Americans  were  wide 
awake  to  its  importance  to  them,  and  rejected  the  intidioui 
proposal.  What  would  be  thought  of  a  proposal  of  the  United 
Slates  to  France,  to  cede  Brest,  Toulon,  or  Cherbourg !  ! ! 

The  primitive  name  of  the  island  was  Aquelneo  when  pur- 
chased of  the  Indians  in  1637,  by  Wm.  Coddington  and  17 
others,  who  took  possession  in  1639.  Roger  Williams  and  hia 
friends  settled  at  Providence  about  the  same  period. 

The  settlers  were  all  of  English  descent,  and  the  inhabit- 
ants have  ever  continued  to  preserve  the  appearance  of  health 
and  fairness  of  complexion  characteristic  of  that  race.  This 
has  doubtless  been  aided  by  the  native  purity  of  air,  and  the 
exposure  to  the  sea  breeze,  that  partially  make  it  warmer  in 
winter  and  cooler  in  summer  than  the  interior  of  the  eastern 
States  generally,  and  have  given  a  very  distinct  impression 
of  its  being  a  healthy  and  desirable  summer  residence. 

Newport  is  in  north  latitude  41°  30,'  near  the  south  part  of 
the  island,  and  lies  north  and  south  on  a  gradual  ascent  cast 
from  the  water,  that  presents  the  town  amphithealrically  on 
a  hill  sloping  to  the  west,  with  an  indentation  in  the  shape  of 
a  cove  in  the  line  of  coast,  having  an  island  in  its  front  that 
land-locks  and  secures  the  harbor  in  the  most  effectual 
manner.  The  streets  generally  are  rather  narrow,  but  are 
paved ;  the  principal  street  is  a  mile  long,  and  of  ample 
width.  There  are  not  many  expensive  private  residences,  or 
much  exhibition  of  wealth,  the  trade  of  the  city  having  di- 
minished, and  been  transferred  to  Providence.  From  ISUOto 
1806  were  years  of  prosperity  in  trade,  and  e^  jce  that  it  has 
been  on  the  wane,  and  exhibits  a  sad  contrast  to  the  bustle 
and  prosperity  of  a  thriving  city  like  that  of  Providence  or 
New  Bedford. 

Of  churches,  there  are  four  of  the  Baptist,  two  Presbyterian, 
and  one  each  of  the  Episcopal  and  Moravian  sects,  a  meeting- 
house for  Friends,  and  a  synagogue  for  Jews;  a  court-house, 
jail,  an  academy,  and  a  remarkably  good  public  library- 
population  8,000. 

The  soil  on  the  narrow  border  of  the  bay  and  ocean  is 
good.  Ascending  the  hill  in  rear  of  the  city,  and  pursuing 
the  roads  and  by-paths,  the  surface  of  the  island  is  seen  to  be 
of  a  shape  and  elevation  to  gratify  the  eye,  and  there  are 
many  commanding  positions  overlooking  the  city  and  harbor, 
and  as  far  as  the  eye  can  extend  to  the  south-west;  and  on 
the  other  hand,  by  a  change  of  position  to  the  south-east,  is  a 


Purgaiory  Point. 


n3S 


houndleM  ezpante  of  (he  pure  ocoan,  daihing:  it*  lurfet 
against  the  jagged,  rocky  shore,  and  shining  in  the  mid- 
day 8un.  ''      '    ' 

In  wanderinp  over  the  island,  we  see  flourishing  orchards 
of  the  choice  adnnired  varieties  of  apples,  pears,  &c.  and  gar- 
dens with  an  abundance  of  esculent  vegetables.  There  is  more 
stone  than  wood  used  in  fencing,  the  former  growth  of  forest 
tree?  having  been  cut  down  and  used  by  the  enemy  in  the 
revolution. 

The  remains  of  intrenchments  then  thrown  up  are  still  to 
be  seen  scattered  around ;  but  the  ruins  of  an  old  mill,  or 
circular  tower  of  titonc,  roofless,  with  arches  of  entrance 
supporting  the  structure,  supposed  tu  be  two  centuries  old,  is 
it  venerable  remnant  of  the  olden  time,  and  has  been  sketch- 
ed by  artists  and  introduced  in  legends ;  and  near  it  and  the 
summit  of  the  hill  is  one  of  the  finest  panoramic  views. 

The  modern  fortiBcations  on  Brenton's  Pointy  on  the  east 
or  right  side,  near  the  mouth  of  the  harbor,  yield  ample  pro- 
teclijii,  and  are  case-mated  and  bomb-proof,  and  filled  with 
heavy  metaled  guns  near  the  water's  edge. 

The  market  is  superior  and  much  extolled  for  its  variety 
and  ample  supply  of  fish,  including  112  kinds,  that  are  drawn 
from  the  neighboring  ocean  in  superfluity. 

It  is  five  miles  from  the  sea  by  channel,  and  two  miles 
overland  iowhrds  Purgatory  Point,  a  range  of  extraordinary 
clifTs  of  pudding  stone,  40  feet  high,  with  cavernous  or  yawning 
apertures  in  '*  hich  is  a  chasm  six  feet  wide  and  150  feet  long, 
and  of  indefin  "  depth  b  low  the  water,  with  its  sides  rugged, 
perpendicular,  ..  rjd  from  the  ceaseless  dashing  of  the  sea  in 
n  heavy  swell,  resounding,  revcvberatii.;^  in  its  dark  recesses, 
issue  unearthly  sounds  and  moans  that  are  aptly  and  poeti- 
cally named.  Sea  bathing,  fiiihing,  sailing,  and  riding  fill  up 
the  time  to  toe  amusement  of  strangers  and  visiters  that  in 
summer  fdl  all  the  hotels  and  boaromg-houses. 

The  basis  of  the  island  is  primitive  rock,  also  the  inlands 
and  shores  of  the  bay;  there  are  no  lofty  mountains  in  the 
Stale.  Mount  Hope,  the  reputed  abode  of  Philip,  the  chief 
sachem,  is  a  hill  of  only  moderate  height  in  the  vicinity  of 
B!;>  j1,  15  miles  northerly  from  Newport,  on  Mount  Hope 
fixy,  ,3\ow  the  entrance  of  Taunton  River.  Monthaup,  "r 
>;:;>'  up,  was  the  Indian  name — the  height  of  the  same  i,-- 
ing  out  239  feet,  and  from  it,  in  a  clear  day.  may  be  seen 
every  town  in  the  State  from  Providence  to  Newport,  the 


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fertile  island  of  Pappasquart,  and  verdant  and  luiuriant 
fields  far  and  near,  and  the  winding  shores  and  mazes  of  the 
bay,  form  a  coup  d'oeil  of  remarkable  beauty. 

The  wigwam  of  Philip  was  near  the  brow  of  the  hill,  by 
De  Wolfs  summer-house,  and  when  Church's  men  came  un- 
expectedly upon  him,  he  evaded  them  by  alertly  rushing  out 
and  rolling  like  a  log  down  the  steep  precipice  without  break- 
ing his  bones,  and  with  the  activity  of  a  tiger  ran  along 
shore  north-east,  and  entered  a  dense  swamp,  but  now  firm 
land,  and  was  ferreted  out  and  shot  by  one  of  his  own  copper* 
colored  foes.  PhUip^s  Throne  is  a  natural  excavaiion  in  the 
quartz  rock  five  or  six  feet  from  the  ground,  near  a  s  all  grass 
plat,  and  a  fine  and  never- failing  spring  of  water,  here  he 
used  to  sit  in  regal  style,  his  warriors  forming  a  semi-circle 
before  him,  and  issue  his  mandates  and  denunciations  against 
the  whites. 

Before  the  revolution  Newport  was  the  fourth  commercial 
town  in  the  colony.  It  suffered  severely  during  the  war,  and 
was  for  a  long  time  in  the  hands  of  the  enemy. 

About  1720,  the  learned  and  celebrated  Bishop  Berkley, 
then  Dean  of  Derry,  in  Ireland,  resigned  his  office  and  emi- 
grated to  America,' intending  to  establish  a  college  for  the 
benefit  of  the  colonies  and  the  promotion  of  classical  learn- 
ing, having  been  promised  £20,000  for  aiding  this  object, 
throurh  the  British  prime  minister,  Sir  Robert  Walpole. 
Bishop  Berkley's  arrival  caused  some  sensation,  and  was 
duly  noticed  in  the  papers  of  the  day.  His  first  step  was  to 
purchase  a  landed  estate  of  about  100  acres,  three  miles  from 
Newport,  to  mature  his  object  and  confer  with  influential 
men  ,  but  a  tedious  delay  and  disappointment  in  the  receipt 
of  the  expected  funds  thwarted  his  liberal  intentions,  and 
after  a  residence  of  three  years  he  gave  up  and  returned  to 
England,  and  became  Bishop  of  Cloyne,  and  died  while  on  a 
visit  to  Oxford  University ;  bequeathing,  his  property  in  Rhode 
Island  to  Yale  College,  to  endow  a  protessorsliip  of  the 
learned  languages,  or  to  give  triennial  premiums  for  scholars 
that  resided  in  the  college  for  three  years  after  graduation, 
and  excelled  in  classic  ioi>e.  Such  a  residence  as  belonged  to 
this  generous  donor  should  not  be  unvisited  by  the  learned, 
the  pa^triotic  Americsn,  as  a  tribute  to  worth,  and  to  inhale 
the  atmosphere  that  surrounds  the  spot,  and  tread  beneatii 
the  shades  once  graced  by  such  a  distinguish^^d  scholar  and 
philanthropist. 


■?=a*;»«i^^f^r¥'^rrTt'-nBr.'"'T7i» '■•?^:?'spn'»  ' V^^ ■^ ' 


Nanhagauttti  S*p* 


337 


TBIUIBB  ON  TKB  r*ROSFBOT  OF  PLANTIVO  ARTS.  AND  I.BAJIIII1I« 
IN  A  NBRICA.      BT  BISHOP  BBRKLBY. 

Thk  ni  ise  disgusted  at  on  age  ^.od  clime 

Barr«  )n  of  every  glorious  theme, 
In  dista  nt  lands  now  waits  a  better  time, 

Producing  subjects  worthy  fsune: 

Ib  happ  y  climes,  where,  iVom  the  genial  sub 

And  V  irgin  earth,  sucU  scenes  ensue, 
The  fori  :e  of  art  by  nature  seems  outdone, 

And  fancied  beauties  by  the  true. 

In  happ} '  climes,  the  seat  of  innocence,       ' 

When )  nature  guides  and  virtue  rules ; 
Where  n  len  shall  not  impose  for  truth  and  sense, 
;       The  pi  idantry  of  courts  and  schools. 

There  sh]  ill  he  sinjg  another  golden  age. 

The  sit  e  of  empire  and  of  arts. 
The  good  and  great  inspiring  epic  rage. 

The  wii  lest  heads  and  noblest  hearts. 

Not  such  I  IS  Europe  breeds  in  her  decay ;  * 

Such  as  she  bred  when  fresh  and  young, 

When  hea  ivenly  flame  did  animate  her  clay,  ' 

fi(y  futui  'e  poets  shall  be  sung.  ¥ 


Westwari  il  the  eourse  of  empire  takes  its  way : 

Thefou  r  first  acts  already  past, 
A  fifth  shal  U  close  the  drama  with  the  day— 

Tiae's  i:  loblest  offspring  is  the  last. 


Thn  Sound  steam 
Bfld  New -York,  Ian 
give  the  resident  n 
itours  with  New-Yo 
hours  with  Boston, 

Leaving  Newpori 
Among  the  archipei 
for  16  miles,  passin 
such  as  Eiist  Grteh 
wich  Bay,  and  *Appi 
and  Warwick  on  th) 
west  shore;  and  B 
farther  north,  War 
the  east  shore;  an« 
enter  Providence  B 
miles  «|>  at  th«  hea 


f 


i-boats  that  ply  daily  between  Proyidence 
d  and  receive  passengers  each  trip,  and 
;ere  constant  communication  in  lU  to  15 
rk  and  Philadelphia,  and  in  four  or  five 
by  the  rail-road  from  Providence. 
t  we  direct  our  course  north,  winding 
ago  of  islands  in  the  Nanhagansett  Bay, 
g  in  review  before  several  small  towns, 
\yaich  on  the  south-west  prong  of  Grecn- 
tnangt  or  Nassaukti,  on  the  north-west, 
3  north-east  of  the  same  bay,  all  on  the 
ristol,  near  Mount  Hope ;  and  five  miles 
Ten,  on  Warren  or  Palmer's  River,  on 
1  then  turning  more  to  the  north-west, 
ajr,  and  passing  Pawtucket  River,  in  five 
d  pf  the  bay,  just  before  arriving  at  the 
29 


n 


■P"^ 


if 


H 


I  • 


1  \ 


33S 


Protidenee. 


citj,  the  Pawtucket  RiveVf  alias  Sekonk,  or  Blackstone  River , 
that  rises  in  the  centre  of  Worcester  County,  Massachu- 
setts, and  accompanies  the  Blackstone  Canal  nearly  to  its 
termination  in  the  city  limits.  The  occurrence  of  three  seve- 
ral rivers  of  nearly  the  same  name,  and  all  beginning  with 
PaWf  and  all  in  the  same  State  within  a  few  miles,  is  puz- 
zling to  a  stranger,  and  must  be  explained  and  remembered. 
Pawcaiuck  is  the  river  that  divides  Connecticut  and  Rhode 
Island.  Pawtuxtt  River  enters  into  Providence  Bay  from 
the  west,  and  branches  in  the  counties  of  Kent  and  Provi- 
dence, near  the  centre  of  the  State.  A  small  town  of  the 
same  name  is  near  the  mouth.  Pawtucket,  or  Blackstone 
Biver,  comes  in  on  the  south-east  side  of  Providence,  and 
has  two  bridges  spanning  it,  the  India  and  Central  bridges. 

Providence  ranks  next  to  Boston,  and  is  the  second  city  in 
New  England  for  population  (30,000,)  wealth,  and  manufac- 
turing industry,  that  is  attracted  around  it  by  water  power 
and  other  facilities.  It  is  at  the  head  of  the  Providence  River, 
and  of  tide,  35  miles  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  is  a  plea- 
sant, well- built,  and  thriving,  active  place,  with  much  coasting 
and  foreign  trade ;  ships  of  large  size  can  reach'the  wharves, 
and  2,500  tons  of  shipping  are  here  owned.  The  new  rail- 
roads to  Boston  and  Stonington  meet  here.  Here  are  twelve 
churches  of  a  style  and  good  taste  (^uite  commendable ;  an 
arcade,  or  bazaar,  of  granite  of  a  light  color,  with  a  colonnade 
strikingly  fine  in  proportion  ;,  three  colleget  on  the  hill  over- 
looking the  city,  and  belonging  to  Brown  University,  under 
Baptist  influence.  There  are  two  bridges  over  to  Sekonk  on 
the  east,  and  another;  11  banks,  and  a  iiost  of  manufacto- 
ries, the  main-spring  of  its  prosperity  and  enterprise.  The 
education  of  youth  is  well  attended  to  in  its  schools  and  acade- 
mies. The  town  is  built  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  is 
united  by  a  beautiful  bridge  90  feet  wide,  spanning  the  river. 
The  usual  public  edifices,  a  market,  court-house,  and  jail, 
are  neat  and  well  built.  Religious  toleration  and  liberality 
in  religion  is  here  fully  understood  iand  enjoyed.  Of  the 
sects,  four  are  Baptists,  three  Congregationalists,  one  each 
of  Episcopal,  Friends,  Methodist,  Universal  is  t,  and  Africans. 
Many  of  the  private  residences  are  unique,  elegant,  and  fine- 
ly platted,  and  have  extensive  views  of  the  city  and  country. 


if^r^/ 


PavBtuehet—AUlehorough. 


33!» 


Boston  and  Providence  Railroad — The  capital  paid  in  is 
$1,783,000.    The  receipts  the  past  year  were, 

For  passengers, $196,974 

For  merchandise, 64,148      . : 

Mail,  ^,250,  rents  $1,741,      .        .        .  3.991 

Total $265,113 

Dividends  for  oiie  year,  $136,312. 

The  Rhode  Island  Rait- road  Company  extends  to  Pawtucket, 
or  the  Massachusetts  line,  four  mi]es  from  Providence. 

A  branch  rail -road  extends  from  the  Boston  and  Provi- 
dence Rail-road  to  Taunton,  15  miles  to  the  east. 

The  rail-road  cars  start  at  regular  hours,  and  not  on  the 
arrival  of  the  boats,  as  formerly.  Fare  to  Boston  $2,  Sto- 
nington  the  same — distance  40  miles.  ' 

Leaving  Providence  from  the  dep6t  at  Sekonk,  for 
Boston,  by  the  new  rail-road  route  of  40  miles,  or  by  a  good 
turnpike  nearly  parallel  with  it,  we  arrive  in  four  miles  at 
Pawtucketf  at  and  belo>v  the  beautiful  falls  in  the  river, 
north-east  from  Providence.  Here  a  grand  sight  bursts 
upon  the  traveler  as  he  crosses  the  bridge  or  viaduct,  and 
beholds  the  entire  body  of  the  large  Pawtucket  or  Blackstone 
River,  of  considerable  width  (200  feet)  and  volume,  tumb- 
ling over  the  rocks  in  a  variety  of  foaming,  heaving  chutes, 
with  a  descent  here  of  30,  and  in  all  of  50  feet,  that  gives 
immense  water  power  for  the  variety  of  manufactories  that 
are  here  established,  viz.  12  cotton  factories,  with  35,000 
spindles  and  1,000  looms,  five  machine  shops,  and  four  iron 
works,  &,c.,the  whole  employing  2,000  operatives.  The  river 
that  passes  down  through,  or  past,  two  bridges  as  before 
stated,  is  navigable  for  large  vessels  to  this  village — popula- 
tion 3,000.  The  Pawtucket  Bank  has  a  capital  of  $100,000. 
36  miles  south  from  Boston,  16  west  from  Taunton,  38  south- 
east from  Worcester.  In  this  town  the  first  cotton  factory 
established  in  the  United  States  commenced. 

AtlUhorough  is  the  next  town,  and  has  a  branch  of  the 
Pawtucket  and  other  streams,  with  tine  water-power,  eight 
cotton  mills,  with  13,000  spindles  and  356  looms,  employing 
420  operatives;  also  a  metal  button  factory,  75  men,  and 
manufacturies  of  jewelry,  glass  buttons,  straw  hats,  and 
shuttles.  There  is  a  small  village  round  the  church,  and 
there  are  in  the  township  two  Presbyterian  and  two  Baptist 
eongregationi. 


'' 


t) 


740 


Attleboraugh-^HaHjah  Weld. 


i 


t^ 


I'l 


( 


The  Rev.  Habijah  Weld,  pastor  of  the  fir»t  chureb  here, 
from  1727  to  1782—55  years,  deserves  mention,  as  a  most 
distinguished  examj^e  of  the  purity,  zeal,  and  exactness  of 
the  genuine  descendants  of  the  puritans  of  ithe  old  school. 
Mr.  Weld's  salary  was  but  $220  a  year,  and  th  e  use  of  a  par- 
sonage lot;  with  this  and  a  farm  of  70  acres,  he  was  enabled 
to  support  his  family  of  15  children,  and  educare  them  better 
than  usual,  to  entertain  much  company  very  hospitably,  and 
aid  those  requiring.  His  fixed  rules  were,  bre^akfai:  rat  six, 
dinner  at  12,  and  supper  at  six — all  precise  to  the  minute — 
no  visits  made  or  permitted  after  that  hour.  The  rigid  ab- 
servance  of  these  arrangements  by  his  children,  laborers,  and 
servants  with  cheerfulness  and  submission,  wasr  the  secret  of 
the  prosperity  and  pleasantness  of  the  family.  Hta  hired 
people,  no  matter  how  busy  the  season,  or  of  urgent  knpor- 
tance,  even  if  crops  were  in  the  open  field  and  threatened  by 
rain,  were,  according  to  the  custom  of  our  forefathers,  dis- 
missed so  early  on  Saturday  afternoon  as  to  allow  them  to 
reach  home  before  sunset,  the  begiiining  of  his  and  theNew 
England  Sabbath.  Cattle  all  fed,  cows  milked,  and  the 
family  assembled,  and  spent  the  evening  in  reading  and 
prayer  until  nine  o'clock,  when  they  all  retired,  and  on  the 
Sabbath  naught  but  acts  of  strict  necessity  and  mercy  were 
permitted  until  sunset* 

During  his  long  life  he  was  never  once  detained  from  the 
pulpit  by  disease,  nor  from  any  other  of  his  pastoral  duties. 
His  sermons  were  written,  and  exactly  delivered  ;  but  he 
could  extemporize  occasionally,  but  never  compromised  with 
error.  Not  a  riot,  or  dissipation,  or  violation  of  order  among 
his  parishioners  escaped  his  rebuke  in  public ;  and  if  any  one 
slept  during  divine  service,  a  sharp  and  pungent  reproof  fol- 
lowed. His  parochial  visits  were  punctual,  to  comfort, 
console,  rebuke,  or  alarm ;  and  stubbornness  and  impiety 
quailed  ai  his  solemn  and  severe  lessons.  Neither  by  ison- 
versaticn  or  in  public  did  he  allow  vicp,  licentiousness,  idle- 
ness, intemperance,  or  profaneness  to  escape  censure ;  and 
his  own  example  of  virtue  caused  in  others  the  greatest 
veneration  and  complete  irreproachability  in  his  character. 
His  manners  were  dignified  and  polite,  and  his  family  cour- 
teous and  well>bred,  and  harmony  and  good  will  ever  existed. 
He  was  below  the  middle  stature,  corpulent,  of  a  vigorous 
constitution  and  energetic  mind ;  and  in  his  seal  and  fidelity 
in  his  duties,  no  one  since  the  apostolic  days  ezceed'ed  Mr. 


Foxborough —  Canton^  Cohaittt. 


341 


W.  He  died  of  apoplexy,  in  his  83d  year,  and  so  were  his 
secular  affairs  arranged,  that  tlie  settlement  of  his  estate  cost 
less  than  tive  dollars ;  and  at  the  time  of  his  death  only  one 
of  his  congregation  was  living  of  those  who  assisted  in  his 
settlement.  Industry,  exactness,  economy,  and  regularity 
were  the  true  causei  of  his  prosperity,  and  ability  to  sustain  his 
large  family. 

In  Foxborough  and  Wrenthmn^  Franklin,  Med  way,  and 
Medfield,  large  quantities  of  cotton  and  straw  are  used  and 
made  into  bonnets  in  the  factories.  On  several  streams  in 
Wrentham,  issuing  from  a  large  pond,  are  five  cotton  mills 
and  factories  of  woolen  cloth  and  thread.  Anthracite  coal 
has  been  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  in  Mansfield,  contiguous, 
on  the  south-east.  The  Mansfield  Coal  Company  have  sunk 
a  shaft  to  the  depth  of  34  feet,  from  which  a  drift  is  worked 
horizontally,  a  short  distance  into  a  bed  of  anthracite  coal, 
about  10  feet  thick — of  carbon,  96  parts ;  aluminous  iron,  &c. 
four;  the  rail-road  from  Boston  to  Provide'nce  is  within  80 
rods.  Sharon  and  Wtdpok  have  the  head  waters  of  the 
!Neponsett  River,  and  in  the  latter  are  a  paper  and  six  cotton 
mills,  two  woolen  factories,  and  a  large  one  for  hoes,  and 
also  a  furnace — great  quantities  of  straw  are  also  made  up — 
limestone  is  here  found.   The  Mashapany  Pond  is  in  Sharon. 

Canton,  15  miles  south  of  Boston,  is  also  on  the  Nepon- 
sett,  has  several  large  ponds,  a  manufactory  of  bells  of 
superior  metal  and  sound,  a  steel  furnace,  two  forges,  two 
rolling  mills,  a  turning  mill,  and  a  factory  of  sheet  lead ;  also 
three  cotton  mills,  a  woolen  factory,  making  600,000  yards 
of  cloth  annually,  three  machine  shops,  and  factories  of  sati- 
net, thread,  wick,  yarn,  cutlery,  and  farming  utensils ;  it  has 
good  water  power,  and  iu  easily  approached  by  rail-road.  The 
viaduct  or  bridge  here  cost  $80,000,  and  is  of  massive  hewn 
granite,  600  feet  long,  63  feet  above  the  foundation,  on  six 
arches,  with  a  succession  of  arches  at  the  top,  and  is  an  ad- 
mirable  piece  of  workmanship; 

Cohassetf  on  the  sea  coast  of  the  Massachusetts  Bay,  is 
noted  for  its  rocky  coast  and  numerous  shipwrecks  ;  it  is  16 
miles  south-east  of  Boston  by  water,  and  30  by  land ;  has 
about  100  sail  of  merchant,  coasting,  and  fishing  vessels,  and 
a  large  tida-water  power.  Salt  is  made  here.  This  is  a 
great  resort  for  citizens  and  strangers  in  summer,  to  escape 
the  sultriness  of  the  metropolis,  enjoy  the  sea  view,  pure  and 
exhilarating  air,  and  the  pleasures  of  fashionable  society.. 

29^ 


( I 


34S 


MUton^  Quincy-^Dorehetter^Roxhury, 


■  \\- 


IW 


I  1  •T;^ 


\'Q' 


The  heavy  swell  and  surf  that  impinges  with  great  noise  an< 
violence  on  this  exposed  and  dangerous  coast,  during  a  long 
northeast  storm,  is  one  of  the  grandest  sights  in  nature,  and 
equal  to  Niagara. 

MUton,  on  the  Neponsett,  seven  miles  south  of  Boston  and 
six  east  of  Dedham,  is  near  the  head  of  tide;  and  Blue  Hill, 
about  four  miles  east,  710  feet  above  the  sea,  is  a  noted  land- 
mark for  sailors,  and  there  is  a  main  and  land  view  most  ex- 
tensive and  glorious  to  behold  from  its  prominent  and  eleva- 
ted summit ;  paper  mills  and  cotton  factories  are  at  the  stream 
near  its  base. 

A  branch  from  the  main  rail-road  leads  two  miles  west  to 
Dedham,  a  town  pleasantly  situated  on  Charles  River,  as 
here  called,  or  the  Neponsett,  10  miles  south-west  of  Boston. 
It  is  the  chief  town  m  Norfolk  County,  and  has  a  court  house 
of  hewn  granite,  three  cotton  and  one  worsiec^  factories,  a 
paper  mill;  lead  pipes  and  pumps  are  made.       ^ 

The  celebrated  orator,  Fisher  Ames,  was  born  here  in  1758, 
and  died  in  1808i  Dedham  Bank,  capital  $150,000^popa- 
lation,  3,117. 

Q,uincy  is  eight  miles  south  of  Boston,  and  10  east  of  Ded- 
ham, or  Quincy,  or  Braintree  Bay,  and  noted  as  the  birth- 
place of  two  distinj^uished  Presidents  of  the  United  States, 
John  Adams,  and  His  son,  John  Quincy  Adams,  who  now 
resides  here,  and  is  the  representative  in  Congress  from  that 
county. 

The  celebrated  granite  of  this  region  is  quarried  to  ■ 
great  amount,  and  taken  by  a  rail-road  down  to  the  Nepon- 
sett ;  this  was  the  first  rail-road  made  in  the  United  States. 
Boots,  shoes,  and  salt  are  here  made.  The  good  schools  and 
pleasant  site  induce  many  families  to  reside  here. 

Dorchester  can  boast  of  erecting  the  first  water  mill  in  this 
county  in  1633 ;  it  has  now  a  great  Variety  of  manufactures, 
and  the  soil  and  face  of  the  country  is  such  as  (o  please  and 
attract  the  horticulturist,  and  farmer,  and  the  wealthy  citizen. 
Dorchester  and  Milton  Bank,  capital  $100,000;  population, 
4,000. 

Roxburyy  three  miles  from  Boston,  is  separated  by  the 
celebrated  narrow  neck  or  strip  of  land  from  the  city,  and 
was  fortified  during  the  revolutionary  war  by  lines  thrown  up 
across  the  isthmus,  and  defended  by  the  enemy.  The  coun- 
try is  rocky  and  uneven,  and  by  the  eitercise  of  good  taste 
and  expenoitare  of  money  and  skill,  a  residence  here  is  r^ry 


V   '' 


Taunton, 


4 


A.,«.-.i- .... 


343 


ftttrtcUve,  tnd  it  abouDds  in  pleasure  groundi  and  neat 
pnansions— numeroui  omnibusses  ply  constantly,  to  the  de- 
light of  thousands. 

The  epvirona  of  Jamtdea  Pcndf  in  this  town^  are  very  at- 
tractive and  delightful,  and  every  stranger  should  make  a 
pilgrimage  around  its  vicinity.  The  late  defunct  Norfolk 
Bank  was  here,  that  had  a  capital  of  $200,000.  The  People's 
Bank  has  a  capital  of  $100,000.  In  1827  the  first  hourly 
coach  from  Boston  to  this  place  was  established,  now  others 
run  to  Charlestown,  Cambridge,  Dorchester,  and  other  pla- 
ces, to  say  nothing  of  rail-roads,  and  the  public  convenience 
is  greatly  promoted.  The  rail-road  enters  Boston,  and  lands 
the  traveler  at  the  dep6t,  near  the  Mall,  or  common. 

Taunton,  20  miles  east-north-east  of  Providence,  is  a  beau-*  i 
tiful  place,  and  the  shire  town  of  the  county,  at  the  head  of 
sloop  navigation  on  the  Taunton  River,  32  miles  south  of 
Boston,  and  32  north  of  Newport ;  it  has  much  water*power, 
eight  cotton  factories,  one  calico  printing  factory,  a  large 
forge,  and  factories  for  nails,  brads,  wire,  hoop  iron,  sheet 
sine,  &c.  and  coach  and  carriage  makers ;  30  coasting  ves- 
sels. A  rail-road  is  made  to  unite  with  one  from  Providence 
to  Boston.  Here  are  three  banks — the  Taunton,  capital 
$250,000,  the  Bristol  County,  capital  $100,000,  and  the 
Cohannet,  capital  $100,000;  also  two  Insurance  Companies, 
and  a  number  of  moral  and  religious  institutions — population 
of  the  township,  6,000.  The  town  is  built  on  the  west  side 
of  the  river,  and  has  two  lively-looking  verdant  greens  or 
squares,  the  Presbyterian  Church  being  on  one,  and  the 
court  house  on  the  other.  The  landing  is  at  a  village  one 
and  a  half  mile  down  the  river ;  a  great  deal  of  iron  is  used 
up  here,  and  the  first  shovels  in  the  old  colonial  times  were 
made  here  by  Samuel  Leonard. 

The  bog  iron,  or  ore,  that  grows  in  the  numerous  small 
lakes  in  Plymouth  County,  in  Pembroke,  Kingston,  Halifax^ 
Plymton,  and  especially  on  the  Assawampsit,  and  Long  Pond 
in  Middleborough,  that  is  raked  from  the  bottom,  has  given 
the  impetus  to  the  iron  trade.  One  of  the  first  rolling  and 
slitting  mills  in  New  England  was  in  this  county  in  1750. 

In  Bridgewater,  and  a  few  miles  north-east  towards  Scitu- 
ate,  and  on  a  line  extending  from  Taunton  towards  Roches- 
ter and  Buzzards  Bay,  begins  the  vast  body  of  sand  that, 
penading  the  south-east  of  Massachusetts,  forms  the  penin-. 
aula  of  Cape  Cod.  '' 


ii 


I 


i; 


344 


Raynkam^Fall  River. 


Raynham,  on  Taunton  River,  is  three  milei  east  of  Taun- 
ton. A  number  of  large  ponds  exist  in  this  township,  pro^ 
ducing  a  good  water  power,  and  to  which  vast  quantities  of 
herring  resort.  On  the  side  of  one  of  these  ponds  Philip 
had  a  hunting  house.  The  venerable  house  of  the  **  Leo- 
nard5,"  erected  in  1650,  an  oh)  gothic  building,  is  now  standing 
and  owned  by  the  seventh  generation ;  their  ancestors  were 
eminent  in  the  iron  business,  and  also  for  their  remarkable 
longevity,  for  of  44  males,  30  of  them  lived  to  be  74,  and 
between  80  and  90  years,  and  the  rest  to  be  aged ;  and  of  36 
females,  two  to  be  near  100 ;  three  above  80 ;  nine  above  75; 
five  near  70;  eight  were  aged.  The  love  of  good  order  that 
prevails  hero  is  proverbial,  and  it  has  been  said  that  "  among 
them  was  never  found  a  tory,  a  friend  to  paper  money,  or  an 
insurgent. 

The  road  from  Newport  to  Boston  by  land  is  up  the  island 
to  Tiverton  ferry,  thence  through  Troy  or  Fall  River,  and 
across  it  to  Somerset,  and  up  to  Dighton  and  Taunton. 

Fall  River,  so  named  from  being  on  the  Falls  of  the  out- 
let of  the  Wattuppa  Ponds,  is  an  important  manufacturing 
town  at  the  junction  of  the  stream  with  Taunton  River,  and 
near  Moi'-nt  Hope  Bay.  One  of  these  ponds  is  II  miles  long 
and  one  mile  wide ;  they  are  produced  by  deep,  never-end> 
ing  springs,  and  are  two  miles  east  of  the  settlement ;  the 
descent  of  this  river  is  136  feet  in  a  regular  volume  of  water, 
not  liable  to  excess  or  diminution,  and  adequate  to  heavy 
manufacturing  operations.  Here  are  nine  cotton  factories, 
31,000  spindles,  1,100  looms;  two  printing  establishments  of 
5,000,000  yards  of  calico  yearly  ;  one  satinet  factory  of 
260,000  yards  the  year;  one  rolling  and  slitting  mill  of  700 
tons  of  nails,  one  iron  foundery,  two  machine  shops,  1,768 
operatives — paid  for  labor,  $316,175;  the  cost  of  stock  and 
maieiials  manufactured  is  Siil32,583  annually.  Fall  River 
Bank,  capital  S200,000.  The  harbor  is  safe,  and  of  easy 
access,  and  deep  enough  for  the  largest  ships  that  are  fitted 
out  here  as  whalers ;  a  marine  rail-way  or  dry  dock  exists 
here.  The  population  in  1834,  5,500.  There  is  granite  here 
equal  to  any  in  the  Eastern  States  ;  a  rail-road  is  to  be  made 
to  Sekonk,  13  miles,  to  intersect  the  one  from  Providence  to 
Boston. 

The  Pocasset  Hotel,  built  in  1833,  is  a  splendid  building,  and 
no  house  in  the  country  has  better  accbmniodations.  A  regu- 
lar 8team*boat  line  exists  from  this  to  Providence^  28  mUes 


■•**■.# 


Difhtan—NetB  Bedford- 


>,% 


34S 


the 


bjr  water,  by  which  this  place  can  readily  be  visked  by  the 
curious  stranger  from  ^lew-York  or  elsewhere,  and  proceed 
south-east  to  New  Bcuford,  or  north-east  to  Taunton,  or  west 
to  Bristol  and  Mount  Hope,  and  Philip's  throne  and  spring. 
(See  page  336.) 

DightoD,  a  port  of  entry  on  the  west  side  of  Taunton 
River,  has  three  cotton  factories,  a  furnace  and  other  iron 
works,  and  is  noted  for  the  marks  or  hieroglyphics  that  re- 
main on  a  rock  as  when  noticed  by  the  first  settlers  200 
years  since,  and  supposed  to  be  Danish  or  Indian. 

In  proceeding  east  from  Newport  to  New  Bedford,  we  pass 
in  succession  Westportf  on  the  Acoakset,  and  Dartmouth,  on 
the  Accuahnot  River,  (two  small  streams  and  inlets  near  the 
mouth  of  BuBsarda  Bay,)  both  of  them  owning  a  few  whalerk 
and  coasters,  and  having  mills,  factories,  and  iron  works ;  and 
in  six  miles  arrive  at 

New  Bedford,  an  important  place  of  business,  a  port 
of  entry  on  the  west  side  of  the  Acushnot,  a  small  stream 
that  falls  into  an  estuary  of  Buzzards  Bay.  The  town  is 
on  a  hill  that  faces  towards  the  harbor  on  the  east,  and 
appears  to  good  advantage  from  Fairhaven  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  bay  or  harbor,  with  which  it  has  communi- 
cation by  a  bridge  of  three  quarters  of  a  mile  Inng,  besides 
the  abutments,  islands,  and  a  bar  that  extends  200  feet  itiore 
in  a  circuitous  manner.  The  water  in  the  channel  is  more 
than  30  feet  deep.  The  entrance  is  narrow,  the  anchorage  is 
good,  the  harbor  cspacious  and  safe.  The  whaling  business 
is  carried  on  from  this  town  on  a  large  scale,  employing,  at 
this  time,  150  ships  and  brigs,  amounting  to  70,000  or  80,000 
tons.  There  are  ^10  oil  and  candle  manufactories,  besides 
much  oil  and  spermaceti  sofd  in  a  crude  state.  The  popula- 
tion has  increased  from  700  in  1790,  to  13,354  in  1839: 
much  attention  is  bestowed  on  education  by  its  excellent 
academy,  and  16  public  and  many  private  schools  of  great 
excdlence.  There  are  four  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $1,300,000, 
and  an  insurance  capital  of  $400,000.  It  is  214  miles  north- 
east by  east  from  New- York,  52  south  of  Boston,  52  north- 
west of  Nantucket,  30  by  land  north-east  of  Newport.  The 
streets  are  too  narrow  for  comfort.  Three  churches  for  Pres- 
byterians, three  Friends*  meeting-houses. 

Fairhaven  was  so  named  from  the  beauty  of  its  situation. 
Mr.  Rotch,  of  Nantucket,  was  the  first  settler  in  New  Bed- 
ford,  in  1764,  and  bought  the  land  of  a  Mr.  Russel,  hence  (as 


346 


Cmpt  Cod^Kandtoich. 


■  u 


the  Duke  or  Bedrord  was  a  Russel)  this  name  of  New  Bed- 
ford, by  the  whim  of  the  proprietor,  was  sole  jted  and  deter* 
mined,  la  1778  this  place  was  burnt,  on  3d  of  September, 
by  4,000  British  troops  under  Gray,  and  property  to  the 
amount  of  S323,266  destroyed. 


Ni 


Cape  Cod* 

Sandwich  is  a  township  that  extends  from  Cape  Cod  Bay 
across  the  peninsula  for  five  miles  to  Buzzards  Bay,  and  con- 
tains streams  that  have  water-power  for  a  cotton,  a  woollen, 
and  a  nail  factory ,  a  furnace,  and  three  carding  machines.  The 
glass  factory  is  the  largest  and  best  in  the  United  States,  has 
225  workmen,  and  makes  glass  to  the  value  of  $300,000 
yearly.  The  yards  and  buildings  cover  six  acres.  Two  glass 
nouses,  one  of  10  and  one  of  eight  pots,  are  in  operation,  and 
a  cutting  shop,  a  cooper's  and  blacksmith's  shop,  to  make 
packages  for  the  ware,  and  there  are  others  for  all  the  pur- 
poses required  ;  two  vessels  also  to  bring  and  take  the 
materials  used  and  exported.  A  rail-road  and  a  canal  ex- 
tend  from  the  wharf  to  the  factory.  Of  raw  materials  used 
annually,  are  600  tons  of  sand  from  Mauric  River,  New  Jer- 
aey,  700,000  pounds?  red  lead,  450,000  of  pearlash,  70,000  of 
saltpetre.  There  is  consumed  1,100  cords  pine  and  700  of 
oak  wood ;  100,000  bushels  of  coal  from  Pictou,  Sydney,  and 
Virginia ;  66  tons  hay  and  straw  are  used  in  packing.  Order 
and  economy  in  the  use  of  materials  and  labor  is  strict — no 
loss — a  use  for  all ;  the  fire  for  the  steam  engine  is  made 
from  the  chips  and  refuse  coal ;  tli^e  heat  is  conveyed  in  iron 
pipes,  under  pans  filled  with  sea  water,  and  thus  evaporates 
water  and  makes  10  bushels  of  salt  a  day  ;  all  the  ashes  is 
bleached  and  the  lye  boiled  down  to  potash,  thus  saving  what 
others  lose  or  throw  away.  The  glass  made  her(^  is  equal, 
in  the  clearness  and  beauty  of  shape,  to  the  beat  in  Europe. 
There  are  60  houses  for  the  workmen  and  their  families, 
1,000  in  number. 

The  large  and  various  ponds  afford  fine  fishing  and  fowling, 
and  deer  are  to  be  had  by  shooting ;  and  this,  and  its  neigh- 
bor Barnstable,  for  rural  sports  are  celebrated.  The  harbor 
is  good.  There  are  13  sail  of  coasters,  fishing  vessels,  &c. 
A  ship  canal,  if  made  over  the  level  route,  a  mere  step  trom 
Buzzards  Ba    to  Massachusetts  Bay,  for  sea  vessels  to  pass 


i 


Barmlable-'BrcwiUr^  Chatham-- Vmnist  S(C»       347 


the 


through,  will  save  200  to  300  milot  of  the  most  dangeroui 
coait  navigation  on  the  coast  of  the  United  Statei,  around 
Nantucket  shoals  and  Cape  God. 

BarnstabUf  at  Sandy  Neck,  on  the  north  side,  has  a  good 
bay  and  harbor  for  vessels  of  eight  feet  drafl;  and  Hyannis, 
on  the  south  side,  six  miles  distant,  is  also  good,  but  the 
breakwater  now  being  made,  will  render  it  safe  from  all 
winds.  In  1779  the  manufacture  of  salt  began  here — it  then 
sold  for  $6  a  bushel ;  2,200  hogsheads  of  salt  are  made  in  a 
year  by  solar  evaporation.  This  town  has  50  coasting  ves- 
sels, many  ponds  and  extensive  salt  marshes — population, 
4,000—65  miles  from  Boston,  30  from  Plymoath. 
^  Breioster,  16  miles  ea8t-by>north  of  Barnstable,  and  six 
north  of  Chatham,  has  eight  fishing  and  coasting  vessels, 
makes  400  hogsheads  of  salt,  and  300  barrels  of  Glauber  and 
£psorn.  From  three  ponds,  covering  1,000  acres,  is  a 
stream  of  water,  on  which  is  a  cotton,  carding,  and  other 
umall  mills,  machine  shops,  &C. 

Chatham,  on  the  south  side  or  elbow  of  the  cape,  has  a 
good  harbor  at  Pleasant  Bay,  and  60  sail  of  coasting  and 
fishing  vessels — makes  2,300  hogsheads  of  salt. 

Dennis,  eight  miles  east  of  Barnstable,  has  7,000  tons  of 
shipping  in  the  fishing  and  coasting  trade.     Bass  River  and 

Eond  gives  a  small  water-power  ;  ^,000  bushels  of  salt,  500 
arrels  of  Epsom  are  made  yearly.     Scurgo  Hill  is  the  high- 
est in  the  county — extensive'  salt  meadows. 

Falmouthf  or  the  Vineyard  Town,  is  a  pleasant  town,  six 
miles  north  of  Holmes'  Hole,  or  Martha's  Vineyard ;  has 
seven  whale  ships  and  40  sail  of  coasters  and  fishers,  and  40 
ponds,  and  some  water  power,  a  woolen  factory,  two  carding 
machines. 

Yarmouth  has  75  sail  of  fishers  and  coasters,  makes  7,500 
hogsheads  of  salt  and  800  barrels  of  Glauber  and  Epsom. 
Bass  River,  the  outlet  of  several  ponds,  gives  a  small  water 
power.  Barnstable  Bank,  $150,000  capital;  72  miles  south- 
east of  Boston. 

Pleasant  Bay  and  Islands  is  just  north  of  or  below  the 
dhow  of  Cape  Cod  ;  between  that  and  Chatham  Beach,  a  long 
narrow  heap  of  sand,  as  is  Cape  Malabar,  that  juts  out  for  10 
miles  to  the  south-west  towards  Nantucket,  forming,  with 
the  coast  around,  the  elbow,  a  break- water  for  20  or  30  miles, 
to  receive  the  furious  assaults  of  the  surges  and  tides  of  the 
ocean. 


n 


I  i 


343 


PltOMant  Bay, 


Between  Pleasant  'Uy  on  the  south-east*  and  Welifleet 
Bay  on  the  north-west,  or  sheltered  side  of  the  cape,  and  on 
the  ridge  winding  to  the  north-east,  is  the  public  road,  lead- 
iog  through  Orleans  to  Eastham,  Welljket.  Truro,  Province- 
town,  and  Cape  Cod  And  Harbor;  passing  over  the  narrowest 
parts  of  the  cape,  and  enjoying  in  the  most  perfect  manner 
the  wild  coast  view,  the  raging  billows  bursting  in  near  prox- 
imity, and  the  deep,  fine  yellow  sands,  the  sport  of  the  whirl- 
ing winds  and  gales,  assuming  the  most  fantastic,  singular 
features,  even  productive  of  admiration,  amusement,  and 
comparison  to  the  snow  wreaths  of  winter,  or  hills,  valleys, 
or  plains ;  the  hills  rise  to  200  feet,  commanding  a  field  ot' 
vision  of  land  and  water  to  the  utmost  extent ;  in  form  they 
are  elegant,  round,  destitute  of  any  richer  verdure  than  the 
beach  grass,  or  the  whortleberry  bushes,  or  small  stunted 
oaks,  yet  they  captivate  the  eye  by  the  naked  gracefulness  of 
their  rough,  wild,  pointed  summits. 

Cape  Cod  houses  are  of  one  story,  with  four  rooms  on  the 
lower  floor ;  shingled  on  the  sides  and  roofs ;  the  chimney  in 
the  middle,  in  rear  of  the  Oont  door,  that  has  two  windows 
at  each  side  ;  there  are  also  two  larger  and  two  smaller  in 
the  gable  end ;  the  general  aspect  is  tidy ;  the  appendages 
neat,  denoting  comfort ;  in  some  instances  the  houses  are 
placed  on  wooden  blocks;  the  cellars  circular  or  cistern* 
formed,  of  bricks,  to  resist  the  inroad  of  the  sand. 

Much  of  the  road  from  Yarmouth  to  Orleans  is  hilly  or 
disagreeable,  with  a  lean  soil;  the  forests  low,  unthrifty,  ex- 
tending for  three  miles  in  Dennis,  but  admitting,  at  times, 
views  of  the  bay,  to  engage  the  attention  of  the  traveler. 

On  the  entire  salt-evaporating  region  of  Barnstable  County, 
from  Sandwich  to  Provincetown,  are  136  works,  with  an  area 
surface  of  1,213,138  square  feet,  yielding  40,438  bushels  o( 
salt,  181,969  pounds  of  Glauber ;  a  trifling  yield  compared 
to  the  vast  amount  of  the  saltworks  in  Syracuse,  New- York. 
(See  page  102.) 

Harwich  is  on  an  easy  declivity  towards  the  south,  over- 
looking a  number  of  large  and  small  lakes  between  it  and 
Chatham. 

Pocket  Neck  and  Pocket  Island,  in  Pleasant  Bay,  are  in 
the  township  of  Orleans,  where  12  to  15  bushels  of  maize, 
and  eight  of  rye,  are  an  average  crop.  Old  men  and  boys  do 
the  field  work:  the  young  and  active  middle-aged  do  the 
fishing ;  wood  is  scarce  and  dear,  and  peal  is  used  alto  as 


ll•^ 


Truro —  Welljleet—Ilace  Point, 


349 


iuel.    The  granite  rucks  are  not  seen  beyond  this  vicinity  on 
the  cape. 

From  Orleans  to  Provincetown  is  30  miles.  On  the  road 
to  Easthara,  diverging  from  the  road  towards  the  bay  on  the 
west,  is  seen  a  large,  frightful,  sandy  waste,  where  the  sur- 
face of  1,000  acres  has  been  blown  away  to  the  depth  of  10 
feet,  the  beach  grass  that  fdrmerly  protected  it  having  been 
destroyed  by  cattle ;  nothing  can  be  more  desolate,  abandon- 
ed, or  sterile  than  this  idea  of  an  African  Nubian  desert. 

At  Eastham  is  a  perfect  plain,  with  a  view  on  the  narrow 
peninsula,  of  the  bay  on  the  west,  and  the  ocean  to  the 
east,  both  magnificent,  and  seemingly  prepared  to  swallow 
up  the  narrow,  intrusive,  insignificant  strip  of  land  of  only 
three  miles  in  width;  the  sterile  soil,  large,  common,  unen- 
closed fields  increase  for  six  miles,  succeeded  by  a  dwarf 
forest  of  oaks  and  pines,  that  lasts  to  Wellfleet  and  Truro, 
at  first  over  a  high  level  surface,  then,  in  u  few  miles,  hills 
and  ralleys,  with  a  tract  of  200  acres  of  good  land ;  snug 
houses,  with  fences  and  apple  orchards,  sheltered  by  a  pro- 
tecting grove  of  locust  or  cherry  trees,  occur  occasionally  in 
valleys  environed  by  hills  of  a  size  to  give  the  aid  sought 
from  the  sea  exposure. 

Truro  and  Wellfleet,  though  on  the  westerly  side  of  the 
peninsula  near  the  harbors,  are  also  in  valleys,  and  enjoy  a 
better  soil,  with  more  immunity  from  violent  winds.  The 
Clay  Pounds  are  a  vast  body  of  clay  or  marl  in  the  midst  of 
the  sand  hills.  Pamet,  the  Indian  name  of  Truro,  is  on  the 
wris^  of  Cape  Cod  ;  Provincetown  is  on  the  thumb;  Wellfleet 
is  a  famous  place  for  good  oysters,  also  for  catching  gulls  by 
torch  light,  and  if  common  report  is  true,  also  for  a  prolific 
manufacture  of  twins  and  trios  in  the  family  way ;  it  is  33 
miles  from  Barnstable ;  Truro,  41.  Truro  makes  2,500  hogs- 
heads of  salt,  and  has  40  to  50  fishing  vessels. 

Race  Point  is  at  the  northern  extremity  of  Cape  Cod,  and 
Provincetown  is  three  miles  south,  52  south-east  of  Boston, 
50  north-east  of  Barnstable,  with  a  safe,  deep,  land'locked 
harbor,  open  to  the  south-east,  and  invaluable  for  the  safety 
and  refuge  ot  coasters,  as  was  first  tested  in  1620,  by  the 
MayJloweVj  with  its  sacred  freight  of  the  puritans  and  pilgrim 
fathers  of  New  England.  6,000  tons  of  fishing  and  400  of 
coasting  vessels;  a  whaler  or  two  are  owned  here;  5,000 
hogsheads  of  salt  are  made  in  a  year,  employing  in  all,  1,000 
men  and  boys.     There  is  a  sperm  candle  factory,  also  an 

30 


I 


1 


Iff  «l 


1  ) 


3&0 


Saerifiee  Rock-^Plpmoutht 


II 


insurance  capital  of  $50,000;  45,000  quintain  of  cod  and 
17,000  barrels  of  mackerel  have  enriched  this  place  in  one 
season. 

That  fortunes  have  been  made  on  this  unpromising  tract, 
by  zeal,  industry,  or  enterprise  properly  directed,  numeroug 
instances  might  be  adduced ;  let  one  instance  suffice,  that  of 
Doane,  of  Wellfleet,  whose  estate  reached  half  a  million. 

Fqv  thrift,  activity,  or  perseverance,  the  men  of  this  pe« 
ninsula  are  celebrated  as  navigators  or  commanders  of  mer- 
chant ships;  the  women  for  economy,  management,  and 
good  housewifery. 

From  Sandwich,  proceeding  north-west  to  Plymouth^  the 
settlements  in  the  forest  of  yellow  pines,  are  few,  lonely,  and 
sad  ;  alternate  prevalence  of  plain  and  hill;  on  the  chore  the 
scene  is  wild,  even  romanac. 

Sacrifice  Rock  and  Clam  Pudding  Pond  should  be  inquired 
for,  and  visited  by  curious  strangers,  as  memorable  places ; 
the  former  frequented  by  the  aborigines  in  their  religious 
ceremonies;  the  latter  by  the  early  colonists  in  their  festivals 
or  thanksgivings  ;  the  rock  that  received  the  feet  of  the  pious, 
hardy  pilgrims  on  their  landing,  will  of  course  be  eagerly 
sought  out  near  the  shore  by  every  descendant  of  those 
venerable  progenitors  of  a  great  and  respectable  portion  of  the 
American  population.  The  rock  is  removed  from  its  original 
site  to  the  centre  of  the  town,  to  be  more  prominent. 
-,  Plymouth  has  about  5,000  inhabitants,  three  Congrega- 
tional, one  Baptist  church,  a  court  house  and  jail ;  is  com- 
pactly built,  plain,  and  not  expensive ;  the  main  street  runs 
parallel  with  the  shore  on  a  side  hill,  irregular,  broken  by 
cross  streets;  the  hill  faces  to  the  north>east,  is  one  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  wide,  one  and  a  half  mile  long;  the  pine  plaia 
is  extensive,  connected  with  those  east. 

The  cemetery  of  the  first  settlers,  the  first  house  and  well, 
are  all  to  be  seen  with  emotions  of  a  peculiar  character,  from 
the  chain  of  events  and  causes  that  have  thence  ensued.  It 
is  35  miles  south-east  of  Boston,  with  a  spacious  but  not  deep 
harbor,  defended  by  Gurnet  Point,  projecting  to  the  south 
from  the  Duxberry  shore.  There  are  numerous  fishing  and 
coasting  vessels  ;  tonnage,  18,000.  A  large  pond,  with  its 
rapid  outlet  or  descent,  facilitates  manufactories  of  cotton, 
iron,  shovels,  rolling,  slitting,  and  oil  mills,  &c.  The  Old 
Colony  and  Plymouth  Banks  have  each  a  capital  of  $100,000. 
The  reminiscences  connected  with  its  first  settlement  or 


Plymouth- 


351 


early  history,  with  the  last  centurial  commemoration  here 
in  1820,  have  affixed  upon  it  the  strongest  attention  or 
attachments  of  the  eastern  people  and  their  descendants. 

The  main  road  to  Boston  is  through  Kingston,  Hanover, 
Weymouth,  Quincy,  Dorchester,  Roxbury  ;  a  road  more  to 
the  east  from  Kingston,  passes  through  Duxbury,  Marshfield, 
(the  residence  of  Daniel  Webster,)  and  over  the  North  River, 
a  deep,  navigable  stream,  to  Scituate,  Cohasset ;  thence 
westerly  to  Hingham,  Weymouth,  Quincy,  and  Boston.  This 
rnad  taken  in  reversed  order,  from  Boston  to  Plymouth, 
Sandwich,  Barnstable,  and  the  extreme  cape,  as  described, 
or  to  Marshfield  and  Falmouth,  on  the  east  of  Buzzards  Bay, 
where  are  yet  remaining  a  few  descendants  of  native  Indians 
on  the  coast  and  around  the  ponds;  and  pleasant  island 
scenery  may  be  reached  with  ease  in  a  short  time  from  Bos- 
ton, or  Taunton,  or  New  Bedford. 

In  the  town  clerk's  office  of  Plymouth  are  the  earliest 
records ;  the  original  charter  in  its  old  box,  &c. 


,^^'v?- 


\  I 


I/-:-.'    .'- 


...  I  '-> 


,,4.,,'.;v..    ,.    r- 


nt 


'  t' 


PART    SECOND.    - 


>  ,  't. 


t  rt  • 


SOVTHERIV     ROUTES. 


Route  from  New-York  to  Philadelphia, 
Baltimore,  and  the  Virgnlnia  (SpringSt 
and  througrh  Georgia  and  Alahania  to 
New  Orleans. 

Two  daily  routes  offer,  first  for  $3,  by  steam-boat  of  the 
Union  Line,  between  the  Battery  and  Morris-street,  at  six  A.  M. 
to  Amboy,  and  thence  by  rail-road  to  Bordentown.  Second 
for  $4,  by  rail-road,  through  Newark,  Elizabethtown,  New 
Brunswick,  and  Trenton,  at  eight  A.  M.  and  four  P.  M. 

By  the  first  route  the  steam-boats  depart  from  the  piers  in 
the  Hudson  River  near  the  Battery,  at  six  o'clock  in  the 
morning  in  summer,  and  at  seven  in  the  fall  and  in  the  cold 
season ;  the  other  line  leaves  the  foot  of  Liberty-street  at 
eight  o'clock. 

A  busy  scene  ensues  immediately  after  leaving  the  dock 
in  New- York,  from  the  crowding  of  passengers  to  the  office 
■window  to  pay  the  fare,  $3,  and  to  arrange  for  the  seats  in 
the  rail  cars;  on  this  the  comfort  and  pleasure  much  depend 
of  a  party  of  ladies  or  gentlemen,  and  this  should,  if  possible, 
be  attended  to  immediately,  before  or  after  starting,  or  even 
the  day  previous,  at  the  office  in  Washington-street,  as  the 
hurry  and  press  is  at  times  on  this  occasion  disagreeable. 

The  stranger  that  is  proceeding  across  the  bay  and  harbor 
of  New-York  towards  the  south  and  west,  will  have  his  at- 
tention engrossed  and  enchained  by  the  admiration  of  the 
panorama  that  is  presented  as  he  rapidly  advances  towards 
the  centre  of  the  lake-like  expanse  of  the  open  bay,  and 
gazes  at  the  admirable  features  of  the  marine  portion  of  the 
picture,  embracing  a  curve  of  more  than  twenty  miles  of 
shore  bounding  the  amphitheatrical  fra^ne  of  the  picture, 
with  the  aperture,  called  the  Narrows,  between  Long  Island 


:    .L^J-    WT*^;.-. .,    _-^_i«.. 


Rouitfrom  New-York  to  Philadelphia^  SfC. 


353 


and  Staten  Island,  leading  the  eye  towards  the  main  avenue 
to  the  broad  Atlantic  Ocean  and  the  highway  of  nations, 
enlivened,  perhaps,  at  the  time  by  ships  of  war  at  anchor  or 
under  sail,  and  the  arrival  or  departure  of  the  finely  modeled 
merchant  ship,  all  in  gallant  trim,  or  mayhap  the  still  more 
novel  and  impressive  sight  of  the  new  and  stupendous  ocean 
steamers  that  have  united  America  and  Europe  into  near 
proximity  of  social  and  commercial  intercourse,  and  intro- 
duced a  new  and  important  epoch  in  the  intercourse  of  dis- 
tant nations  with  one  another,  that  is  destined  to  have  a 
weighty  and  a  mighty  influence  in  war  or  in  peace,  in  civili- 
zing and  in  promoting  the  happiness  of  the  human  family. 

The  eye  instinctively  roams  from  the  fast  receding  city, 
its  tall  spires  and  clustering  taper  masts  of  the  shipping  that 
skirt  its  wharves  and  shores,  up  to  the  broad  and  noble  Hud- 
son, that  leads,  past  rocky  dikes  and  lofty  mountains,  to  the 
complete  interior  of  a  great  State  and  nation,  thus  forming  a 
stupendous,  deep,  natural  canal  of  mure  than  150  miles  long, 
and  a  mile  to  a  half  mile  in  width,  that  human  art  and  skm 
could  not  have  effected  on  such  a  grand  and  efficient  scale. 

The  light-house  on  Robin's  Reef  is  erected  on  the  edge  of 
the  channel,  on  the  western  side,  and  rises  from  a  ledge  of 
dangerous  rocks  so  near  the  usual  course  of  steam-boats  and 
ships  that  many  accidents  have  occured  thereby,  that  will 
now  be  avoided. 

New  Brighton  is  next  presented  on  the  north-east  point  of 
the  island  before  us,  arrayed  in  all  its  attractions  of  architec- 
tural good  taste  and  eligible  position,  that  commands  a 
capital  view  of  the  city  and  harbor  of  New-York,  its  islands, 
and  sweeping  and  graceful  shores. 

The  Pavillion  hotel,  and  the  Sailors'*  Smig  Harbor  a  mile 
beyond,  are  the  most  imposing  edifices  that  are  presented  on 
this  shore.  The  Sailors*  Retreat,  the  Hospitals,  and  splen- 
did diV\  pacious  erections  for  Quarantine,  are  all  on  the 
eastern  part  of  the  island,  and  seen  to  mote  advantage  by 
those  proceeding  to  or  arriving  from  sea. 

The  creative  feeble  efforts  of  man  sink  into  insignificance 
when  arrayed  on  shores,  where  the  natural  outline  compre- 
hends such  massive  and  sublime  features ;  nevertheless  the 
islands  in  the  harbor,  and  their  crowning  forts,  castle,  and 
ramparts  for  defence,  together  with  the  many  graceful  and 
imposing  architectural  erections  of  the  few  more  recent  years, 
that  aaluto  the  L-ye  of  the  passing  stranger  ai  he  urges  hia 

30* 


/p 


354 


Route  from  New- York  to  Philadelphia,  5fc, 


n 


i\ 


( 1 


way  through  the  narrow  straits  between  Staten  Island  and 
New  Jersey,  the  Kills,  are  certainly  entitled  to  respectful  notice, 
from  the  evident  and  rapid  improvement  of  the  taste  of  the 
owners  of  many  of  the  beautiful  temples,  and  palace-like, 
and  pillared,  and  portico  residences  that  adorn  this  arm  of 
the  sea  on  either  shore,  intermixed  with  the  more  unpretend- 
ing yet  comfortable  abodes  and  residences  of  the  ^less 
wealthy  portion  of  the  community, 

The  whole  face  of  the  island,  called,  by  the  first  Dutch  set- 
tlers, Stadt,  or  Staten  Island,  abounds  with  beauties  and 
capabilities  that  are  destined  sooner  or  later  to  bring  it  be- 
fore the  public  as  a  charming  resort  of  the  retired  and  weal- 
thy citizens  of  the  great  metropolis  adjacent;  from  the 
many  commanding  heights  and  elevations  are  the  finest 
views  towards  the  interior,  and  also  of  an  illimitable  expanse 
of  ocean,  said  to  be  the  finest  coast  views  in  the  United 
States. 

We  soon  draw  near  Amboy,  the  place  of  landing  on  the 
south  shore  of  the  Raritan  River,  that  here  unites  with  the 
great  bay  of  that  name,  and  by  the  transition  from  steaming 
by  water  to  that  of  steaming  by  land,  conveyance  is  eflfected 
in  a  miraculously  short  time,  aided  by  crosses,  puHies,  cranes, 
&c.  to  lift  and  arrange  the  huge  masses  of  trunks  or  luggage, 
or,  to  use  the  popular  American  phrase,  baggage. 

Before  arriving  at  the  landing-place,  at  South  Amboy,  25 
miles  from  New-York,  the  spacious  bay  and  estuary  of  the 
Raritan  expands  towards  the  east,  with  a  view  of  the  Atlan- 
tic Ocean,  and  of  the  light-houses  on  Sandy  Hook,  and  the 
highlands  of  New  Jersey,  and  the  shipping  entering  and  de- 
parting. The  route  to  New  Brunswick,  20  miles  west,  leads 
up  the  Raritan  River. 

On  arriving  at  South  Amboy,  the  cars  and  locos  will  be 
found  in  readiness  on  the  wharf;  the  ascent  soon  enters  a 
line  of  deep  cutting  through  the  sand-hills,  and  continues  in 
a  barren  and  uninteresting  region  to  Hubertsville,  Hights- 
town,  Spotswood,  and  Centrevjlle,  36  miles  to  Bordentown, 
on  the  Delaware  River. 

Although  uninviting  in  its  aspect,  yet  this  sterile  region 
has  important  deposits  of  marl  beneath  its  surface,  which  is 
beginninfT  to  be  used,  and  is  fast  improving  the  lands  in  this 
part  of  New  Jersey. 

Dreary  and  dull,  sandy  and  poor,  is  the  characteristic  of 
the  face  of  the  country  in  the  part  of  New  Jersey  pervaded 


New- York  and  Philadelphia  Rail-road. 


355 


by  the  rail-road  between  South  Amboy  and  Bordentown,  on 
the  Delaware,  a  distance  of  36  miles,  and  occupying  from  an 
hour  and  a  half  to  two  hours,  that  if  not  enlivened  by  agree- 
able society  and  companionship,  will  pass  heavily  and  weari- 
ly, from  the  tameness  and  monotony  that  prevails,  and  the 
utter  want  uf  excitement  in  the  proximate  objects,  until,  in 
reaching  the  vicinity  of  the  Delaware  River  at  Bordentowo, 
the  extensive  grounds  and  mansion  of  an  ex-king  of  Spain, 
of  the  Napoleon  dynasty,  forms  an  eager  subject  of  attention 
to  the  curious  traveler,  and  to  all  reflecting  or  well  informed 
persons,  a  striking,  instance  of  the  versatility  and  fluctuating 
nature  of  all  temporal  honors  and  enjoyments,  from  the 
throne  of  majesty  to  the  simple  republican,  of  retired,  unob- 
trusive, quiet  habits,  such  as  Joseph  Bonaparte  is  now  said 
to  be,  by  his  friends  and  neighbors. 

The  further  continuation  of  the  passage  onward  to  Phila- 
delphia is  usually  effected  in  the  pleasant  season  of  spring 
and  summer,  or  when  the  river  is  open,  by  steam-boat  con- 
veyance for  the  remaining  distance  of  30  miles ;  but  the  line 
of  rail-road  that  is  continued  on  the  immediate  bank  of  the 
Delaware,  for  the  most  part  from  Bordentown  to  Camden, 
opposite  Philadelphia,  always  oflers  as  a  resource  in  that 
short  period  of  the  winter,  when  the  ice  in  the  Delaware  pre- 
sents an  obstacle  to  the  free  or  safe  use  of  steam-boats. 

The  cars  make  a  pause  at  the  depdt  on  the  banks  of  the 
Delaware,  and  a  change  of  conveyance  takes  place  usually 
to  the  steam-boat,  down  the  river  to  Philadelphia,  although 
the  rail-road  is  continued  on  the  east  side  of  the  riverj  28 
miles,  to  Camden.  The  change  in  the  mode  of  getting  on 
from  Bordentown,  for  the  remaining  distance  by  water  of  30 
miles,  will  be  grateful,  and  will,  like  the  part  just  traveled  on 
the  rails,  occupy  about  two  hours  and  a  half  very  agreeably, 
in  passing  down  the  beautiful  River  Delaware,  and  past  the 
towns  of  Burlington  and  Bristol;  at  the  latter  place  is  the 
canal  leading*  on  the  west  side  of  the  river  to  Easton,  and  up 
the  Lehigh  River  to  Mauch  Chunk  coal  mines,  106  miles. 

The  entire  and  direct  rail-road  route  that  is  now  completed 
between  New-  York  and  Philadelphia,  via  Powles  Hook,  New- 
ark, Elizabethtown,  Rahvvay,  (Woodbridge,)  New  Brunswick, 
(Kingston,  Princeton,)  Trenton,  Bristol,  and  Frankford,  pur- 
suing very  nearly  the  old  established  revolutionary  stago 
route,  avoiding  all  water  or  steam-boat  transfer  from  the 
land,  and  vice  versa,  but,  in  four  or  five  hours,  quietly  taking 


M 


<  ( 


356 


New  Jtrsey  Rail-road. 


■it 


Up  the  traveler  in  one  of  the  principal  cities  referred  to,  at 
either  end  of  the  rail-road,  and  setting  him  down  and  trans- 
planting him  in  all  possible  ease  and  luxury  at  the  opposite 
extremity,  a  distance  of  94  miles,  will  undoubtedly  be  pre- 
ferred by  the  majority  of  timid  and  careful  travelers,  to  the 
more  circuitous  route  of  circumnavigating  Staten  Island, 
and  passing  over  New  Jersey  and  down  the  Delaware, 
though,  it  must  be  confessed,  the  difference  in  point  of  time 
between  the  two  routes  is  by  no  means  great,  and,  for  the 
sake  of  novelty  and  variety,  both  will  no  doubt  be  frequented 
and  receive  a  fair  trial  from  the  impartial  traveler. 

The  first  or  six  o'clock  line  of  passengers  from  New- York 
will  arrive  at  Philadelphia  at  three  o'clock  P.  M.  by  the 
steam  boat. 

By  the  second  oute  from  New-York  to  Philadelphia,  lead- 
ing by  rail-road  through  Newark,  Elizabethtbwn,  and  New 
Brunswick,  passage  is  taken  at  the  office  at  the  foot  of  Liber- 
ty-street, New- York,  departing  at  eight  A.  M .  nnd  four  P.  M. 
(and  for  Newark  and  New  Brunswick,  at  various  hours  in 
the  day,  as  may  always  be  ascertained,)  and  passing  very 
nearly  along  the  line  of  the  old  post-road,  more  in  the  interior 
of  the  ^  ate  than  the  first  route,  and  reaching  Philadelphia 
at  an  early  hour  in  the  afternoon,  fare,  ^4. 

The  New  Jersey  Rail-road^  incorporated  in  1832,  with  a 
capital  of  $750,000,  extends  from  the  Hudson  River  opposite 
Courtlandt-streel,  New- York,  through  Newark,  Elizabelh- 
town,  Woodbridge,  Rahway,  New  )ilrunswick,  to  Trenton, 
(and  thence  to  Philadelphia  by  another  charter. )  Two  and  a 
half  miles  from  Jersey  City  is  the  branch  leading  to  the 
manufacturing  town  of  PatersoUf  and  the  remarkable  Falli 
of  the  Passaic. 

After  passing  over  the  embankment  soon  after  starting, 
the  deep  rock  excavation  on  Bergen  Ridge  will  be  noticed, 
as  having  caused  a  great  amount  of  labor  and  expense  ;  and 
as  belonging  to  the  same  range  that,  extending  north,  forms, 
for  20  miles,  the  imposing  rampart  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Hudson,  called  the  Palisades.  On  passing  through  the  deep 
rock-cut  and  emerging  from  the  ridge,  a  striking  view  is 
presented  of  the  low  lands  bordering  the  Hackensack  River, 
and  the  city  of  Newark,  with  its  clustered  spires  and  houses, 
aT  d  a  back  ground  of  hills  and  mountains.  After  passing  the 
mradows  and  the  Hackensack  and  Passaic  Rivers,  on  a  via- 
duct, the  road  rounds  to  the  south,  and  skirts  along  the  city, 


Ntw  Jersey  Rail-road, 


357 


with  a  branch  leading  up  to  the  main  street.  The  Morris 
Canalj  (that  extends  through  this  State,  and  passing  north- 
ward as  far  as  Patterson,  there  winds  around  the  ridge  and 
assumes  a  south-westerly  direction  to  its  termination  at  the 
Delaware,  opposite  Easton  in  Pennsylvania,)  here  has  its 
eastern  descent  into  this  city  by  an  inclined  plane,  that  raises 
and  depresses  boats  by  iron  chains  and  rollers,  over  a  slope, 
from  the  hill  above  to  the  level  below,  of  60  feet,  and  by  locks 
into  the  Passaic  River. 

The  canal  winds  northerly  to  Paterson  12  miles,  thence 
westerly,  across  Morris  County,  for  30  miles,  and  receiving  its 
feeder  from  the  Hopatung  Lakey  900  feet  above  tide,  it  de- 
scends, by  the  vale  of  the  Musconetung  to  the  south-wsst,  for 
60  miles,  to  Easton  on  the  Delaware.  It  is  32  feet  wide  at 
top  and  18  at  bottom,  and  four  deep;  rise  and  fall  1,657 
feet ;  has  24  locks  of  a  rise  or  fall,  total  of  223  feet,  and  23 
inclined  plains  as  above,  in  the  aggregate  of  1,334  feet ;  cost, 
about  $2,000,000.  It  has  200  bridges,  12  aqueducts,  five 
dams,  30  culverts,  four  guard  locks  ;  began  in  1825 ;  finished 
in  1835. 

The  rail-road  to  Morristown,  32  miles,  begins  at  the  rail- 
road bridge,  and  pervades  Centre  and  Broad-streets,  and 
winds  through  the  gorges  and  vales  in  Orange,  Springfield, 
&c,  and  is  a  pleasant  route — fare,  $1. 

Newark  has  70  or  80  flourishing  manufacturing  establish'- 
ments  of  boots,  shoes,  carriages,  jewelry,  hats,  leather  in  all 
branches,  harness,  &c.  and  plating  in  silver  and  brass,  and 
an  active  population  of  20,000  souls,  20  churches,  and  many 
hotels,  &c.  four  banks,  and  insurance  companies,  and  2,500 
houses,  150  stores,  groceries,  &c.;  value  of  exports,  $8,000,000. 
It  has  ships  in  the  whaling  trade,  and  the  Lehigh  coal  trade 
passes  through  it  on  the  canal,  and  steam-boats  and  rail- 
road cars  ply  frequently  to  the  city  of  New  York. 

The  passenger  next  arrives  at  Eliza^eihtown  in  six,  Rah- 
way  in  five,  and  New  Brunswick  in  12  miles  ;  and  those  who 
have  in  times  past  been  obliged  to  crawl  along  at  a  snail's 
pace  on  this  thoroughfare,  with  the  mud  up  to  the  axles  of 
the  stage,  will  now  proceed  on  their  way  here,  rejoicing  at 
improved  velocity  on  the  iron  tracks  and  iron  wheels  beneath 
them,  aa  forming  a  very  agreeable  contrast  with  the  former 
means  of  conveyance.  •  ■  ^  , , 

New  Brunswick  has  600  houses,  6,000  inhabitants,  seven 
churches,  two  banks,  8  or  12  hotels,  and  over  100  stores,  and 


J>v     ' 


us 


New  Brumwick—Princeton, 


(f 


! 


is  situated  at  the  head  of  Rteam.boat  navigation  on  the 
Karitan  River,  and  is  also  the  seat  of  Rutgers'  Coll''gt  and 
school,  under  the  patronage  of  the  Reformed  Dutch  Church; 
and  iiere  also  commences  the  Delaware  and  Rariian  Canal, 
that  extends  to  Bordentown  on  the  Delaware  ;  it  is  42  miles 
in  length,  has  14  locks,  and  116  feet  of  lockage.  Locks  110 
feet  long,  24  wide,  and  navigable  lor  schooners  and  sloops, 
and  has  been  very  beneficial  in  its  operation,  and  saves  the 
exposure  and  risk  of  a  circuitous  coast  navigation  of  several 
hundred  miles,  and,  in  connection  with  the  Chesapeake  and 
Delaware,  and  Dismal  Swamp  Canals,  and  Long  Island 
Sound,  and  the  Bay  of  Chesapeake,  and  River  Delaware, 
forms  a  line  of  safe  interior  trade  from  Providence  and  New- 
port, Rhode  Island,  to  Norfolk,  Virginia,  and  to  the  waters 
of  Albemarle  and  Pamlico  Sounds,  on  the  coast  of  North 
Carolina,  within  Cape  Hatteras,  excepting  a  short  sea  ex- 
posure round  Point  Judith.  The  water  to  supply  this  canal 
is  taken  from  the  River  Delaware  at  Bull's  Island,  and  is 
conducted  for  23  miles  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  to  the 
main  canal  at  Trenton.  The  cost  of  the  canal,  feeder,  &c. 
was  about  $2,000,000. 

Princeton  is  the  seat  of  a  college,  (Nassau  Hall,)  and  of  a 
Theological  Seminary,  both  of  great  celebrity,  and,  from  its 
elevation  and  healthy  position,  is  much  resorted  to  as  a  place 
of  education.  A  battle  was  fought  near  Stony  Brook  in  thii 
vicinity,  during  the  revolution,  between  the  American  forces 
under  General  Washington,  and  those  of  the  British;  an- 
other action,  in  1776,  was  also  fought  at  and  near  Trenton,  in 
which  General  Washington  was  again  the  assailant,  and 
succeeded  in  capturing  several  hundred  men.  The  raiUroad 
from  Trenton  southerly,  begins  at  Morrisville,  on  the  west 
side  of  the  noble  bridge  over  the  Delaware,  and  passing 
through  Tullytown,  Bristol,  and  Frankford,  near  the  bank* 
of  the  river,  forms  a  beautiful  ride  for  26  miles,  along  a  most 
fertile  portion  of  Pennsylvania,  and  enters  the  city  of 


Philadelpliia,  ,    ^ 

through  the  northern  liberties.  The  most  fashionable  hotels 
are  in  Chestnut-street,  between  seventh  and  eighth,  and  in 
Third-street  and  adjacent.  Sanderson's,  in  Fourth-Btrcet,  is 
an  airy,  capital  house.    The  Exthange  is  a  chaste  and  ad< 


359 

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mired  edifice,  and  comprises  the  Post  Office,  a  reading-room, ' 
to  which  strangers  are  freely  admitted,  and  suit  of  offices  for 
insurance  companies,  brokers,  &c.  the  great  room  for  the 
merchants  is  on  the  second  floor,  and  facing  Dock- street, 
and  opposite  is  the  elegant  building  of  the  Bank  of  Pcnn- 
s)'lvania,  also  constructed  of  white  marble.  These,  together 
with  that  exquisitely-modelled  edifice,  the  United  States 
Bank,  and  most  of  the  public  buildings  in  this  city,  are  re- 
markable for  a  pure  and  chaste  style  of  architecture,  that 
also  pervades  the  general  appearance  of  the  private  dwell- 
ings, denoting  neatness,  comfort,  and  wealth. 

Sanderson^ s  Hotel,  in  Fourth-street,  for  extent  of  accommo- 
dation, salubrity  of  the  situation,  and  the  quiet  arrangement 
and  improvements  made  by  Mr.  Sanderson,  in  substituting 
speaking  tubes  to  the  regular  domestics  on  each  floor,  in 
lieu  of  the  noisy  gongs  and  bells  that  in  most  large  establish- 
ments of  that  nature  are  a  great  and  unceasing  annoyance 
to  travelers,  are  in  this  entirely  omitted,  and  the  self-evident 
change  for  the  better  in  this  instance  is  at  once  seen  and 
noticed,  as  the  mouths  of  the  trumpet-tubes  proceeding  from 
the  desk  of  the  clerk  or  overseer,  are  all  under  his  instant 
control  and  hearing. 

There  are  numerous  other  hotels  in  Chestnut-street,  Third- 
street,  and  other  parts  of  the  city,  of  an  inferior  grade,  that 
charge  from  two  dollars  down  to  a  dollar  and  a  half,  or  one 
dollar  a  day  ;  but,  on  trial  of  the  most  noted  house  in  the 
highest  repute,  fashion,  and  notoriety,  we  prefer  decidedly 
the  Merchants'  Hotel  of  Mr.  Sanderson,  in  Fourth- street,  be- 
tween Third  and  Arc}) ;  this  is  the  most  recent  and  deserv- 
ediy  popular  establishment ;  his  baggage-cart  always  awaits 
the  arrival  of  the  cars  and  boats,  and  takes  charge,  free  of 
expense,  of  trunks  desluied  for  his  hptel. 


•s. 


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^*i        V: 


Phi«es  to  be  visited. 


The  United  States  Mint,  in  Chestnut-street,  where  are 
coined  the  silver  half  doUars  and  gold  half  and  quarter 
eagles  of  the  United  Stales,  is  highly  interesting. 

The  Philadelphia  Library,  in  Fifth-street,  founded  by  Ben- 
[  jamin  Franklin,  contains  50,000  volumes,  and  is  open  to  the 
public  at  one  o'clock  P.  M.  and  free  to  strangers,  to  whom 
every  polite  attention  is  extended  by  the  Librarian. 


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\       '•: 


The  Atheneum  is  also  an  institution  that  duos  much  honui 
to  its  founders  and  supporters,  and  here  the  savans  and  liter- 
ary men  of  this  literary  and  quiet  city  may  usually  be  found, 
and  like  its  prototype  opposite,  the  noble  library,  it  abounds 
with  a  copious  supply  of  booKs  of  reference,  periodicals,  &c. 
that  enables  the  stranger  or  man  of  business  to  lounge  away 
a  leisure  hour  or  two  in  the  most  agreeable  manner. 

The  luxury  of  bookSf  enjoyed,  as  they  may  be  here,  at  the 
fountain  head,  constitutes  one  of  the  highest  and  most  de- 
lightful attractions  of  any  place,  and,  together  with  the  refined 
society  of  this  metropolis,  renders  it  a  pleasant  abode  to  en- 
lightened strangers  and  men  of  science. 

While  lingering  in  this  vicinity,  it  may  be  well  to  remind 
the  stranger  that  he  is  in  the  midst  of  places  rendered  inte- 
resting to  an  American  by  historical  associations.  The  Stale 
House  near  by  contains  the  room  in  which  the  Congress  pro- 
mulgated the  Declaration  of  Independence  in  1776,  and  where 
their  sessions  were  held  for  several  years.  The  square  in 
the  rear,  or  south  of  the  State  House,  is  well  laid  out  and 
adorned  with  forest  trees,  as  are  the  other  squares  in  differ- 
ent parts  of  the  city. 

The  Pennsylvania  Hospital  is  an  excellent  institution, 
founded  by  the  venerable  Penn,  whose  statue  in  bronze  is  in 
the  court  yard  in  front;  the  building  in  the  rear  contains  the 
large  and  beautiful  painting  by  West,  of  Christ  healing  the 
sick,  and  presented  by  him  to  this  Hospital,  as  a  memorial  of 
his  attachment  to  his  native  country  and  the  city  of  his  early 
residence. 

Other  charitable  institutions  also  abound  here,  such  as 
alms  houses  for  the  city  poor,  and  asylums  for  the  blind  and 
deaf  and  dumb,  for  orphans  and  widows,  and  for  the  Friends. 
The  first  is  a  very  (  itensive  building  on  the  Schuylkill  River, 
near  the  permanent  bridge  and  the  United  States  Naval 
Hospital.  •;    ^ 

The  lectures  that  are  delivered  at  the  medical  schools  by 
the  most  eminent  professors,  and  at  the  Franklin  Insiitnie^ 
deservedly  attract  hither  a  large  number  of  students  in  the 
winter  season. 

The  .Academy  of  Natural  Sciences^  and  the  American  Phi- 
loaophical  Society,  established  in  this  city,  enrol  among  their 
members  many  distinguished  men,  and  have  both  published 
several  volumes  of  transactions. 

There  arie  three  or  four  theatres,  a  hall  for  concerts  bs- 


■R 


Philadelphia, 


361 


longing  to  the  Musical  Fund  Socieiyt  a  Mcuonic  HaU^  and 
the  Academy  of  ArtSj  that  contains  some  good  paintings, 
gtatuarj,  cameos,  &c.  and  several  private  galleries  exist  also 
in  this  city.  The  Chinese  Gallery  is  of  all  others  the  most 
unique,  rare,  curious,  and  valuable. 

There  is  also  a  House  of  Refuge  for  Juvenile  Delinquents, 
and  a  splendid  State  Penite^iliary  a  short  distance  from  the 
northerly  part  of  the  city,  on  the  plan  peculiar  to  Pennsylva- 
nia, and  matured  by  some  of  her  amiable  citizens,  the  princi- 
pal feature  being  confinement  in  single  ceils,  and  exclu« 
sion  from  all  knowledge  of  or  association  with  other  criminals 
during  the  term  of  their  sentence. 

The  United  Stales  Na^iy  Yard  in  Southwark,  and  the  iVii- 
val  Hospital^  Almshouse,  and  Arsenal,  on  the  Schuylkill,  and 
the  ingenious  yet  simple  machinery  by  which  this  city  is 
copiously  supplied  with  water. by  the  works  at  Fair  Mount,* 
are  worthy  of  a  ride  to  visit,  and,  together  with  the  Peniten- 
tiary and  the  Girard  College,  with  the  House  of  Refujje,  in 
Francisville,  on  the  ridge  roHd,  and  the  Deaf  and  Dumb 
Asylum  in  Broad,  near  Pine-street,  may  all  bo  comprised  in 
the  same  excursion  ;  and  if  it  is  t-xtended  to  the  viaduct  over 
the  Schuylkill,  and  the  inclined  plane  at  the  Cnlumbi.i  Rail- 
road, or  a  visit  to  German i own,  the  remains  of  Bartrani's 
and  PratVs  Gardens^  the  unrivalled  scenery  of  the  Schuylkill^ 
it  will  not  leave  any  thing  on  the  stranger's  part  to  regret 
as  unfinished  in  the  environs. 

In  the  city,  Peate's  Muneum,  in  the  arcade  in  Chestnut- 
street,  the  shot  towers,  the  city  markets,  the  scientific  lectures, 
the  book  and  map  establishments,  public  scliools,di.spensarie9, 
churches,  Friends'  Meeting  in  Arch-street,  grave  of  Frank- 
lin, srientiBc  instituiiuns,  libraries,  post  o)Kce,  and  exchange, 
the  banks,  and  bridges  over  the  Schuylkill,  should  all  receive 
a  timely  visit. 

The  new  hall  of  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences  is  a  fire 
proof  building-,  45  feet  front  by  85  feet  deep,  containing  an 


Hi 


;■'■*'!     it- 1  it 


i 


*  The  watftr-powor  acquired  by  a  dam  across  the  Schuylkill  of  seven 
feet  in  height,  gives  motion  to  wheels  in  the  stone  house  adjoiiiinjr,  by 
which  a  lieavy  column  of  water  is  propelled  up  the  hill,  and  supplies 
constantly  six  large  reservoirs,  of  fourniillions  of  gallons  each,  en  the 
summit,  from  whence  iron  pipes  descend  into,  and  branch  under  every 
street  in  the  city.  40  miles  of  pipe  are  laid,  and  8,000,000  of  gallons  can 
be  supplied  in  a  day.    This  is  considered  a  chef  d'ceuvre  of  its  kind. 

31 


;  W.,i.     la-  ■.. 
-      t'      .if?' 


t  ( 


362   . 


PhiUsdelphia.'  ' 


ample  saloon,  with  ranges  of  galleries ;  in  the  baiement  is  a 
lecture-room  capable  of  receiving  500  persons. 

Mr.  Maclure,  the  geologist,  was  the  principal  benefactor  to 
this  institution,  having  given  $20,000,  besides  an  invaluable 
library,  with  many  specimens  in  natural  history. 

There  are  13  Episcopal,  16  Presbyterian,  tour  Dutch  Re- 
formed, iivaRoman  Catholic,  five  Baptist,  10  Methodist,  and 
three  Lutheran  Churches,  one  Synagogue,  one  Unitarian  and 
one  Moravian  church,  and  several  others  in  the  city  and  liber- 
ties, and  in  the  suburbs. 

Twelve  principal  hotels  and  numerous  boarding  houses. 

Philadelphia  ranks  as  the  second  city  in  the  Union  in  popu- 
lation, and  the  first  in  regularity  and  beauty.  The  streets  are 
laid  out  parallel  with  the  two  rivers  from  north  to  soutli,  and 
crossed  by  others  at  right  angles  from  east  to  west.  Water- 
street  is  nearest  to  the  river,  and  directly  in  rear  of  the 
stores  that  face  the  Delaware,  then  comes  Front-street,  ex- 
tending three  or  four  miles,  parallel  with  the  river;  then 
Second,  Third,  Fourth,  Fifth,  Sixth,  Seventh,  Eighth,  Ninth, 
Tenth,  Eleventh,  Twelfth,  Thirteenth,  then  Broad-street, 
that,  as  being  the  central  street  between  the  Delaware  and 
Schuylkill  Rivers,  is  of  uncommon  width,  and  contains  the 
rail-road  leading  to  Wilmington  and  Baltimore,  and  to  the 
Susquehannah  River,  82  miles  to  Columbia,  100  to  Harris- 
burgh,  (see  index,)  and  also  to  the  N&vy  Yard  in  South- 
wark,  and  thence  along  Swanton-street  to  the  public  land- 
ing,  to  near  Cedar  or  South-street,  and  a  branch  goes  east 
down  High-street,  by  the  side  of  the  market,  extending 
eight  sq  tares  in  length,  and  at  the  bottom  of  which  is  the 
ferry  across  the  Delaware  to  Camden,  in  New  Jersey,  and 
the  rail-road  lending  to  Amboy  and  New- York.  The  next 
street  south  of  High,  or  Market-street,  and  running  west  to 
the  Schuylkill,  is  Chestnut-street,  at  which  landing  the  east- 
ern and  southern  lines  of  steam-boats  congregate  ;  the  next 
streets  are  Walnut,  Spruce,  Pine,  and  Cedar,  all  from  river 
to  river; — north  of  Market  or  High-street  is  Filbert;  then 
Mulberry  or  Arch-street,  Cherry-street,  Sassafras  or  Race- 
streets;  then  Vi'ie;  then  follows  the  jurisdiction  of  city 
called  the  Norlliern  Liberties,  containing  Wood- street.  Callow- 
hill-street;  then  Willow  and  James-streets,  through  which  is 
a  rail-road  to  the  Lahigh  coal  dock,  and  connecting  the  rails 
leai^'ng  to  Trenton,  through  Front  and  Maiden-streets,  and 
Frankfort  road,  and  also  through  North  Ninlh-streer,  with 


Philadelphia.  \         "^f 

the  rails  leading  to  Gtrniantown  and  Norristown ;  thus  in> 
tersccting  the  city  in  the  most  convenient  manner  with 
rail-road  communication.  Viewing  the  markets  in  High- 
street  as  the  centre  of  the  city,  all  the  great  streets  leading 
from  it  to  the  norlk  are  therefore  called  North  Front,  North 
ijecond,  and  so  on  up  to  Thirteenth,  and  all  the  streets  lead- 
ing south  from  Hi<:h-slreet  ore  called  South  Front,  South 
Second,  and  so  on  to  Thirteenth.  There  are,  besides  the  fore- 
going, a  multitude  of  interior  or  second-rate  streets,  courts,* 
lanes,  alleys,  &c. 

Five  noble  public  squares,  viz.  Penn  in  the  centre,  intersect- 
ed by  Broad  and  High-streets;  Franklin  to  the  north-east, 
and  Logan  to  the  north-west,  between  Vine  and  HHce*streeif); 
Riltenhonse  to  the  south-west,  and  Washington  to  the  south- 
east, between  Walnut  and  Spruce- streets,  and  Independence 
in  the  rear  of  the  Slate  House,  between  Chestnut  and  Walnut- 
streets,  and  the  open  grour.ds  around  the  Pennsylvania  Hos- 
pital, and  in  other  places,  constitute  very  agreeable  features 
in  the  general  aspect  of  this  city.  h.  terrace,  or  promenade, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Delaware,  is  only  wanting  to  perfect  the 
flymmetrical  plan;  and  this,  it  is  hoped,  wdl  be  realized 
eventually  through  the  munificent  bequest  of  Mr.  Girard. 
The  population  of  the  city  is  about  220,000,  comprised  in 
a  circle  of  seven  miles,  and  with  room  for  expansion  ;  its  in- 
habitants are  wealthy,  prosperous,  and  enterprising ;  peacea- 
ble in  their  habits,  and  attached  to  order  and  regularity  ia 
society,  which  renders  it  a  desirable  home  to  strangers,  and 
a  saf !  and  permanent  residence  to  those  who  are  unwilling 
to  behold  their  ancient  domains  violated  by  the  ruthless  and 
relentless  hands  of  modern  corporations. 

A  ride  of  half  a  day  around  the  city  of  Philadelphia  and  its 
immediate  vicinity,  within  five  or  10  miles  to  the  west  and 
north,  but  more  particularly  to  view  the  banks  of  the  Schuyl- 
kill, its  elegant  bridges,  viaducts,  gardens,  and  promenades, 
dep6ts,  and  the  lovely  views  of  and  from  Fairmount  Hill  of 
the  reservoir,  the  water-works,  the  simple,  yet  grand  and 
eflficient  machinery  and  constructions,  that  are  hv  re  brought 
to  bear  with  such  uncommon  beauty  and  skill,  to  supply  the 
want.s  of  a  great  metropolis,  for  its  needful  supply  of  water 
for  all  the  purposes  of  life,  cannot  be  too  much  admired  and 
appreciated. 


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Girard  College—Laurel  Hill  Cemetery. 

The  large  Penitentiary  of  Pennsylvania,  with  its  gloomy 
and  massive  walls  and  castellated  structures,  arrest  the  at* 
tention,  and  require,  and  will  repay  the  time  consumed  in 
the  interior  examination.  The  walls,  that  are  30  feet  high, 
enclose  30  acres  of  ground. 

The  GiRARo  College,  n  short  distance  from  the  water- 
works of  Fair  Mount,  and  the  last-n  ntioned  building,  offers 
a  pleasing  contrast  both  in  the  elegance  and  beauty  of  the 
various  edifices,  and  the  liberal  and  humane  plan,  objects, 
and  endowment  of  the  founder,  that  will  perpetuate  his  name 
as  one  of  the  noblest  benefactors  ot*  the  human  race. 

Founded  for  the  support  and  education  of  a  large  number 
of  orphan  boys,  the  various  edifices  are  adapted  for  both 
dormitories,  Ptudying,  and  public  rooms,  and  have  the  mo> 
dern  improvements  in  every  department. 

The  entrance  to  the  spacious  grounds  is  on  the  east,  from 
the  Germantown  road.  The  main  building  is  of  the  purest 
style  of  Grecian  architecture,  and  is  of  while  marble  from 
quarries  in  Stockbridge,  Massachusetts. 

The  colonnade  on  the  eastern  front  has  pillars  of  most 
imposing  dimensions,  72  feet  in  height,  and  eight  feel  in  di- 
ameter, of  the  Corinthian  order,  with  capitals  of  exquisite 
workmanship. 

The  Laurel  Hill  Cemttery,  on  a  lofty  promontory  on  the 
banks  of  the  Schuylkill,  promises  to  be  one  of  the  loveliest 
retreats  and  of  public  resorts  to  all  strangers  and  travelers 
of  taste.  Passing  a  gateway  of  most  imposing  structure, 
is  seen  on  entrance  a  group  in  free- stone  of  Old  Mortality 
chiseling  an  inscription,  with  8cott,  the  imaginary  creator  of 
the  Action,  leaning  on  a  tomb,  as  an  auxiliary.  Ti>e  tenden- 
cy  to  associate  the  visits  of  the  living  to  the  resting-places  of 
the  departed  "more  with  our  pleasures  than  our  duties,"  as 
here  evinced,  or  at  Mount  Auburn  near  Boston,  or  Green- 
wood Cemetery,  near  Brooklyn  and  New- York,  and  the  one 
near  Baltimore,  is  most  commendable. 

This  well-chosen  spot  is  deeply  shaded  with  aged  forest 
trees  ^  the  views  amid  the  undulations,  or  winding  of  the 
drive  or  pathway,  through  the  shady,  sombre  glades  or  dells, 
are  full  of  sweetness,  stillness,  or  repose;  the  quiet,  dark, 
mirror-surface  of  the  river,  with  the  drooping  branches  of 
the  shrubbery  and  forest  trailing  in  its  hushed  current,  is  all 
in  keeping  with  the  seclusion  here  sou|;ht. 


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■■if,* 


Rail-road  from  Philadelphia  to  Reading. 


365 


Kail-Koad  from  Pliiladclpliia  to  Read- 
iiigr,  and  the  Coal  JUines  in  Schuylkill 
County. 

This  is  a  new  and  elegant  route,  with  (?oine  original  and 
uncommon  features  ;  the  scenery  of  the  Schuylkill,  the  tun- 
nel, and  the  bridge,  and  the  approach  and  entrance  to  Read- 
ing, arc  in  the  highest  degree  gratifying,  and  the  accommo> 
datious  for  travelers  are  satisfactory.  The  extension  of  this 
road  from  Reading  to  Pottsville,  37  miles,  completes  the  en- 
tire route  of  96  miles  to  the  anthracite  coul  region  of  Schuyl- 
kill  County.     From  Reading  to  the  Delaware  is  69  miles. 

The  important  items  on  this  road  are  easy  grades  and 
long  tunneling;  the  grades  are  IS  feet  to  the  mile,  as  tho 
highest  down  to  11  feet  and  one  foot.  The  road  for  five 
miles  from  Reading,  where  it  winds  round  the  hase  of  the 
Never  Sink  Mountain,  is  heavy  and  expensive,  on  a  narrow 
ledge  cut  from  the  solid  rock  at  the  foot  of  a  lufty  hill. 

The  Black  Rock  Tunnel^  the  longest  in  the  United  States, 
cuts  ofl'a  bend  of  the  river  three  miles  round.  It  is  1,932 
feet  long,  cut  through  solid  blue  slate  rock,  19  feet  wide  and 
17  feet  high.  It  was  worked  from  the  ends  and  from  five 
vertical  shafts,  one  of  which  was  140  feet  from  the  surface  of 
the  ground  to  grade  of  tunnel ;  it  cost  $150,000.  It  is  one 
mile  above  Phoenixville. 

On  the  same  line  with  this  tunnel,  and  immtidiately  adjoin- 
ing it,  is  a  beautiful  stone  bridge  across  the  Schuylkill,  with 
four  arches  of  72  feet  span  and  16^  feet  rise,  each  built  of 
cut  sand-stone. 

At  Flat  Rock,  one  mile  above  Manyunk,  is  another  tunnel  of 
960  feet  long,  through  solid  gncis  rock  :  surface  of  road,  21  feet 
wide  on  embankments,  and  25  feet  in  cuts,  with  side  ditches 
in  the  latter,  one  and  a  half  feet  deep;  its  side  slopes  are  one 
and  a  half  base  to  one  rise,  on  embankments;  one  to  one  in 
earth,  and  one  third  to  one  in  rock  cuts.  In  the  wood  work 
of  bridges,  Irvin's  lattice  for  spans  over  40  feet — Hn<l  for  loss, 
the  king  and  queensport  truss,  and  simple  joist  forrns — the 
lattice  bridges  ot  white  pine,  the  others  of  while  oak  timber. 
Culverts  of  stone,  with  semi-circular  arches  of  six  to  50  feet 
span.  The  trail  is  laid  on  white  oak  i>ills  or  sleepers,  three 
fee'  one  and  a  half  inches  apart  from  centre  to  centre;  rail 
three  and  a  quarter  inches  high  ;  its  upper  surface  two  and  a 


r": 


u 


366 


Rail-road  from  Philadelphia  to  Reading, 


\  II 


quarter  inches,  and  lower  three  and  a  quarter  inches  wide, 
with  a  stem  |  inch  thick ;  it  is  rolled  in  lengths  of  18  feet 
nine  inches,  and  weighs  45  pounds  per  linear  yard.  The 
sill  is  seven  feet  long,  and  seven  by  eight  inches  square,  laid 
on  its  flat  side. 

The  joints  of  the  rails  fit  into  a  cast-iron  chair,  shaped  to 
receive  exactly  the  whole  of  the  under  surface,  and  one  side 
of  the  end  of  each  rail,  that  is  furnished  with  a  bolt-hole 
through  which,  and  one  in  the  chair,  a  screw-bolt  passes,  nut* 
ted  on  the  inside,  with  a  true  and  level  joint,  and  securing 
the  ends  of  the  rails  firmly  to  the  chair.  Between  the  ends, 
the  rail  is  fastened  to  the  sills  by  a  bill-headed  half  pound 
spike,  that  clamps  the  rail  down  to  a  quarter  of  an  inch  notch 
cut  in  the  sill,  no  intermediate  chairs  being  used  as  with 
most  other  solid  rails.  Under  every  sill,  except  in  rock  cuts, 
a  trench  eight  feet  long  is  dug  and  filled  to  the  depth  of  14 
inches  with  broken  stone,  well  rammed  in  three  separate 
layers.  ,..^  .    .■;>;?•„  •.•,-•,>  ■     \ 

This  is  one  of  the  best  constructed  rail-ways  in  the  United 
States,  and  therefore  is  more  minutely  described. 

When  the  unevenness  of  thecountry  through  which  the  road 
passes,  and  the  sudden  bends  of  the  River  Schuylkill  are  con- 
sidered, its  curves  arc  light;  819  teer  and  1,480  struck  with 
the  radius,  others  from  2,000  to  3,000  feet.  The  cost  of  this 
road,  with  dep6t8,  tunnels,  and  a  double  track  of  edge  rails, 
is  $45,000  per  mile.  The  engineers  were  Moncure  and  Wirt 
Robinson. 

This  rail-way  at  Pottsville  unites  with  the  Mount  Carbon 
rail-road  and  Danville  and  Pottsville,  and  in  half  a  mile  with 
the. Mill  Creek  and  Schuylkill  valley  rail-roads,  and  in  four 
and  a  half  miles  west  the  Mine  Hill  and  Schuylkill  Haven 
rail-roads  ;  ond  at  Port  Clinton,  15  miles  from  Pottsville,  with 
the  Little  Schuylkill  Rail-road ;  by  this  road  the  Lehigh  Coal 
and  Navigation  Company  can  send  their  coal  to  the  Reading 
Rail-road  ;  -md  the  coal  from  all  the  above  mines  brought  in 
cars  to  the  Delaware  River,  at  Philadelphia,  at  63  cents  ex- 
pense per  ton  less  than  via  canal,  and  with  less  waste  and  in 
much  better  order.  \ 

The  capital  stock  is         .         .         .         .         $2,000,000 
Loan  in  England  at  five  per  cent.        .        .      2,000,000 

Total,     $4,000,000 
Two  millions  of  tons  of  coal  may  be  passed  annually,  at  a 


( .  ' ' 


-lajfe" 


SehuyUcill  Canal, 


367 


locomotive  expense  at  17  to  23  cents  per  ton  ;  other  expen- 
ses, 50  cents  per  ton.  From  the  mines  the  line  varies  from  a 
Itnd  to  a  descent  of  19  feet  per  mile,  and  a  slight  ascent  near 
its  termination. 

The  Schuylkill  navigation  and  canal  extends  from  the  dam 
at  Fairmount,  near  Philadel|thia,  to  Port  Carbon,  on  the 
Schuylkill,  168  mileH,  bein^  a  scries  of  dams  and  pools;  the 
first  pool  above  the  Fairmounl  dam  is  entered  l)y  a  canal 
opposite  the  water-works,  and  is  six  miles  to  Flat  Bock  ; 
thence  in  one  and  a  half  miles,  the  Manyunk  Canal  connects 
with  and  rejoins  the  stream,  and  enters  the  second  pool. 
This  lasts  four  miles,  a  small  canal  linking  it  to  a  third  pool ; 
in  three  miles  a  small  link  of  a  canal  reaches  the  pool  abovo 
Norristown ;  thence  by  short  canals  and  pools  to  the  Oaks 
Canal,  three  and  a  half  miles  long,  that  begins  half  a  mile 
above  Perkiamen  Creek,  and  by  the  north  or  left  side  of  the 
river  to  a  dam  one  mile  and  a  half  above  Phoenixville,  there 
entering'  the  river.  The  next  pool  is  five  miles  long,  reaching 
to  the  Vincent  Canal ;  one  mile  above  begins  the  Girard  Ca- 
nal, 22  miles  long,  on  the  right  or  south  side  of  the  river  to 
Pigeon  Creek,  five  miles  from  Reading,  that  is  reached  by  a 
short  canal  and  two  dams.  From  Reading  to  Hamburgh  is 
the  canal  of  Hamburgh,  10  miles  long,  and  one  of  three  miles, 
and  a  series  of  short  canals  usually  on  the  left  or  north  bank, 
and  also  to  the  end  at  Fort  Carbon.  Canals  27  ;  making  58 
miles;  pools  and  dams  34;  making  50  miles;  canals  36  feet 
wide  at  top,  23  at  bottom,  three  feet  six  inches  deep,  117 
locks,SOhy  17  feet*,  a  tunnel  of  385  feet;  total  rise,  610  feet; 
nearly  all  are  double  locks.  Capital  stock,  originally  33,312 
shares,  at  $50;  now  increased  by  loans,  &c.  to  the  value  of 
$3,531,644;  present  market  price  of  each  share,  S'50.  The 
interest  on  the  stock  and  loans  is  $201,049  ;  other  expenses, 
repairs,  wages,  fee.  ^121,246;  total,  ^322,296;  needing  a 
transmit  of  732,400  tons  of  coal,  at  50  cents  per  ton,  to  meet 
the  amount.  The  freight  at  present  charged  on  this  canal  is, 
for  a  ton  of  coal,  $1  28,  and  other  expenses  at  landings,  labor, 
wastage,  screenage,  wharves,  $1  03;  the  canal  toll  is  92 
cents  per  ton;  total,  $3  23i. 


■MVi' 


■  A  new  and  short  three  days'  route  from  Philadelphia  to  JVTieel- 
ing  or  PittsburjBr,  on  the  Ohio  River,  can  be  made  by  following  the  great 
State  Kail-road  leading  to  Lancaster,  and  then  taking  the  branch  ex- 
tending to  Harrisburg ;  and  thence  crossing  the  River  Susquchannah  by 
a  splendid  viaduct  and  rail-road  bridge  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  proceed- 


M 


♦l- 


368 


Philadelphia  to  Chamber thurgh^  SfC. 


1 1 '' 


ing  oil  by  rniUroad  to  CarlitUt  18  niilos,  and  toClinmborfllMir|ih,3:2  railop, 
niukinff  150  miles  from  Pliiladolpliin ;  usuidly  run  in  ubout  10  or  13  houm, 
and  advancing  the  impntiont  truvolor  so  fur  very  rupidly  towards  hia 
woMlorn  point.  More  tlie  rpguliir  sta^on  for  VVIieeling  tal<o  up  tlio  pnM- 
Bongni'a,  und  travel  day  and  niglit.  pushing  liy  n  good  and  tolerably  lovcl 
road,  partially  Alucadaniiisod  throuyb  tiie  entire  extent  of  the  8tatR  to  itH 
western  limits,  toucliing  ArConnol's  T«wn.  Bedford,  Soinorsei,  Mount 
Pleasant,  Hob's  Town,  on  the  Yonngliiogany,  Wdliamsport,  on  the 
Monongahola,  and  Wnshinglon,  whoro  it  meets  the  gronif  national  or 
Cumberland  rond,  that  is  folFowod  ihrongli  West  Alexandria  to  Whticlin)^. 
This  road  snvos  about  half  a  day  in  avoiding  the  routu  in  going  from 
Baltimore  to  Wheeling,  via  the  rail-road  to  Ellicott  mills,  along  the 
Patapsco,  and  to  Pred«:ri(:k,  in  Maryland;  and  thttnco  by  stage  to  Ila- 
garstown,  Hancock's  Town,  and  Cumberland,  and  thence  by  the  great 
nationitl  road  of  1*2C  miles  to  Wheeliuir.  The  expense  by  either  of  tlieso 
routes  should  not  exceed  $10  or  $12,  though  $15  is  charged  and  some- 
times obtained  by  the  shrowd  stage  proprietors — ever  greedy  and  uu- 
satisfiod 

Both  of  these  principal  routes  to  the  groat  western  country  pn^s  over 
nnd  across  the  same  general  chains  or  lidges  of  the  Alleghanies,  that  as- 
Fumo  diffnrent  names  in  adjoining  States,  or  ovci)  vithin  sliort  distancn, 
but  are  all  distini^uished  for  their  magnificent  features  and  grandcurof 
outline,  as  viewed  from  the  most  prominent  points  and  elevations,  such 
as  the  Tuscarorn  Mountain,  Sideling  Hill,  Bitck  Bone  Mountain,  Laurel 
Hill,  Chestnut  Ridgo,  &c.  &c.  Some  of  these  sierras  or  ranges  are  seen 
to  riso  with  iuHiiite  sublimity,  though  gradually,  hill  beyond  hill,  Alp  no 
Alp,  until  un  altitude  of  about  3,000  feet,  or  perhaps  mure,  and  a  moit 
extensive  and  commanding  horizon  is  obtained. 

Those  choosing  the  route  by  rail-road,  as  above  slated,  to  the  western 
country,  via  Chambersburgli,''  and  the  centre  of  Pennsylvania,  beMdrs 
avoiding  the  expense  of  going  hence  to  Baltimore,  ($•!,)  pass  directly 
through  the  ri«  hest  agricultural  region  of  Pennsylvania,  and  on  their 
arrival  at  Harrisburgh,  the  capital  of  the  State,  can  proceed  by  the  canal 
boats  that  are  constantly  passing  along  by  the  picturesque  valley  nnd 
banks  of  the  much  admired  Juniata  Rivtr  to  HnUidapabitrff,  the  head  of 
the  canal  at  the  base  of  the  n)oi:ntain  ridges;  and  thonce  by  rail-road, 
nnd  the  10  inclined  planes,  for  36  miles  to  Johnstown,  on  the  CoHemavgh 
River,  where  the  canal  for  the  west  is  a^ain  resumed,  following  the  val- 
ley of  the  Conemaiifth  and  tha  Kiskimvietaa  Rivera  to  the  confluence 
with  the  brisk  nnd  lively  Alleghany  River,  nnd  pursues  tho  right  bank 
of  that  stream  to  the  town  or  suburbs  opposite  Piitaburg,  where,  by  nn 
aqueduct,  it  is  conducted  over  to  it."  terniinution  in  the  last  mentioned 
place  For  minute  description  of  the  great  internal  improvements  of 
Penu'^ylvania,  see  pages  369  to  384. 


*Chambersbn;-gh  is  a  town  of  about  5,000  inhabitants,  and  is  well,  and 
substaniially,  and  compactly  built,  near  the  eastern  base  of  the  'I'uscarorB 
Mountain,  or  the  grand  chain  of  the  Alleghanirs,  about  central  or  midway 
from  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburg,  20  miles  north  of  the  Maryland  line. 
Here  is  a  law  ackool  connected  with  Marshall  Collope  at  Merceraburfr, 
in  Franklin  County— terms,  $75  per  year  for  tuition  ;  board,  $2  to  $2  50 
per  week,  in  Chamber»burg,  where  is  the  law  library  ond  school  of 
Judge  ThorapsoD,  the  lecturer.  ^ 


\  I 


Penmyltania  ImprotementM*    . 


369 


rittaburgh  ii  one  of  the  moat  attractive  ond  gotliering  pointa  to  tha 
eountlens  number  of  pilgrima  ami  irnvclora  from  nil  pari*  of  the  vnkt, 
that  hero  nro  nsHemhInd  and  coiicontratod  as  a  foc-iu,  from  wlicnce  to 
choosu  their  peouliur  mode  of  gelling  on  down  the  Oliio  River,  and 
■calloring  ovnr  tlio  vast  aurfuce  and  ramilicutiona  of  the  Immense  expanse 
of  country  that  is  included  between  the  Aiiughanica  and  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  For  a  fiirtlier  and  more  minute  dr.tail  of  the  scenery  and 
charncloristic  inridenti  attending  a  voynge  of  1,01)0  milcx  on  tlio  Ohio, 
and  hctwocn  2,U(I0  and  3,(l00  on  the  Ali(isi»8i]tpi  Rivera  and  their  most 
important  tributaries,  aoo  future  pages,  and  index. 


The  srrcat  Pennsylvania  Rail-road  and 
Canal,  leading  to  Plltsburg^h,  and  con- 
necting^ with  the  Ohio  Canals  and  £«ake 
Erie.  , .  .  4t  ^. 

To  a  cursory  observer  of  the  map  of  Pennsylvania,  it 
would  appear  almost  irnpracticnble  to  form  a  junction  be- 
tween the  castorti  and  western  waters,  from  the  numerous 
ridges  of  mountains  running  from  north-east  to  soutli-west, 
at  right  angles  to  the  route  required  ;  but  nature  has  accom- 
plished  it  in  the  channel  of  the  Juniata  River,  that  has  burst 
throujzh  all  the  opposing  obstacleH  on  the  east  slope  of  the 
Aiieghnnies,  and  formed  a  wild  ravine  to  the  valley  of  the 
Susquchannah  exactly  in  the  direction  required;  and  the 
only  mountain  ridges  west  of  the  Alleghany  are  the  Laurel 
ai;a  Chesnut  Hills;  both  of  those  are  rent  to  afford  a  passage 
for  the  Conomaugh,  that  rises  on  the  west  slope  of  the  Alle- 
ghanies,  nearly  opposite  to  the  Juniata,  and  flows  to  the 
Ohio.  The  first  appropriation  for  the  Pennsylvania  Canal 
ivas  made  25th  February,  1826,  the  first  contract  in  June, 
and  on  the  4th  July  the  same  year  it  was  commenced. 

The  Pennsylvania  canals  are  distinguished  by  the  names 
of  the  main  line,  which  is  the  chain  of  rail-roads  and  canals 
extending  from  Philadelphia  to  Pittsburgh  ;  and  the  branches 
that  run  along  the  banks  of  the  Delaware  and  Susquehannah, 
and  its  east  and  west  branches,  and  along  the  Beaver  River 
and  French  Cret;k. 

This  grand  route  leading  to  the  Western  States  is  now  a 
formidable  connpetitor  of  the  grand  Erie  Canal  of  New- York, 
and  of  the  Maryland  improvements,  all  of  which  have  for 


4.1 


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370 


Philadelphia  and  Columbia  Rail-road. 


their  ulterior  objects  the  attraction  of  the  commerce  of  the 
States  bordering;  on  the  Oiiio,  tho  MieslMsippi,  and  tho  lakes, 
to  their  rettpcctive  commercial  emporiums,  New-Yoi  k,  Phila- 
delphia, and  Baltimore.  The  Stale  of  Pennsylvania  lias  put 
forth  her  energies  to  attain  it,  and  has  alrcaily  75U  miles  o( 
public  improvements,  conyistnig  of  G30  of  canals  and  slack 
water  navigation,  and  120  miles  uf  rail-ways,  the  whole  coi-t- 
ing  $32,000,000,  besides  other  canals,  &c.  by  joint  stock 
companies. 


Philadelphia  and  Columbia  Rail-road. 

The  Philadelphia  passengers  having  previously  made  their 
arrangenionts  at  the  oflices  of  the  Company,  will  be  called 
for  at  the  proper  hour  by  an  omnibus,  and  taken  to  iho  place 
of  general  assemblage  of  all  these  going  in  the  train,  at  the 
dep6t  in  Broad- street ;  the  usual  hours  are  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  at  different  intervals  during  the  day.  All  being  in 
readiness,  the  train  commences  its  progress,  and  passes 
through  ihe  suburbs  of  tho  city  in  a  north-west  direction, 
past  the  water-works,  and  along  tho  lovely  banks  of  the 
Schuylkill  for  three  miles,  just  below  Peter's  Island,  where 
ihe  viaduct*  crosses  the  Schuylkill  to  the  west  bank.  The 
hasty  glimpse  gained  of  the  river  in  passing  over  this  viaduct, 
that  is  1,045  feet  long,  41  wide,  and  38  nbove  the  surface  ot 
the  water,  induces  the  traveler  to  long  for  its  further  ac- 
quaintance; but  onward  is  the  word,  and  the  cars  having 
arrived  at  the  foot  of  the  inclined  plane,  that  is  2,805  feet  in 
length,  and  the  great  endless  cable  of  nine  inches  in  circum- 
ference—(cost  $2,800,  weight  eight  tons,)  that  is  connected 
at  the  top  of  the  plane  by  machinery  managed  by  steam 
power,  and  that  is  prevented  from  trailing  along  the  ground 
by  resting  upon  iron  wheels  liiaiL  revolve  in  iron  sockets— 

*TIii8  is  of  wood,  four  distinct  trusses  of  arch  pieces,  king  posts,  and 
braces — Burr's  plini  inodiAed  ;  width  49  feel  ciglit  inches;  three  separate 
passages;  two  of  18  and  a  half  feet  in  the  clear;  one  for  loot,  of  fuiir 
feet;  one  of  the  foruior  being  for  the  rail-way,  one  for  common  car- 
ringes  ;  seven  spans;  their  lengths  in  the  clenr,  between  piers,  are  two 
ofi'ii  feet  each,  three  of  135,  two  of  137  feet;  the  eastern  abutment  and 

Eiers  are  solid   rock,  tie  others   on  hnnl  gravel;  masonry  in  courses, 
aramer-dressed ;  bridge  floor,  38  feet  above  the  usual  water  lius.    Coit, 


including  painting,  $133,946. 


S<V-f:'|i 


im 


Philadelphia  and  Columbia  Rail-road. 


having  been  securely  fastened  to  the  roremost  of  the  train, 
the  signal  is  given,  and  the  train  commences  the  ascent  to  the 
summit,  that  is  187  feet  above  tide  water.  And  hero  It  may 
he  proper,  once  fur  ail,  tu  acquaint  the  traveler  that  accidents 
have  occurred  at  thi«  and  oilier  planes  hy  the  parting  of  the 
cable,  when  the  momentum  of  the  descent  has  dashed  the 
cars  to  atoms;  therefore  the  timid  and  the  prudent  should 
alight  from  the  cars  at  the  be^inningof  the  plane,  and  ascend 
or  descend  them  on  foot.  Having  safely  arrived  at  the  sum* 
mit  of  the  plane,  and  cast  a  hasty  retrospective  glance  at  the 
fine  grouping  of  the  objects  beneath  his  eye,  the  traveler  is 
reminded  by  the  hissing  and  smoke  of  the  locomotive  here 
ill  readiness  that  no  time  is  to  be  lost,  when,  resuming  his 
seat,  the  truin  again  starts  on  a  six  hours'jaunt  to  Columbia, 
iind  the  passenger  has  full  time  to  enjoy  the  excitement 
arising  from  the  rapidly  changing  scene  and  objects  that  he 
finds  himself  passing  with  a  speed  varying  from  Id  to  20 
miles  an  hour,  and  fairly  on  his  route  westward. 

The  road  is  kept  on  the  dividing  ridge  to  near  the  VV^st 
Chester  Fork,  where  it  is  254  feet  above  tide,  the  grades  thus 
far  varied  or  wnvins;  but  now  descends  the  north  slope  of 
the  South  Valley  Hill  into  the  great  Chester  Valley,  over  the 
Valley  Creek'*'  to  the  east,  or  Big  Brandy  wine  at  Downinston  ; 
iho  descent  for  11  miles  being  29  fuet  per  mile;  (height  of 
railroad  above  tide  at  Brandy  wine,  250  feet ;)  thence  seven 
miles  to  West  Brandywine,  is  ascending;  the  whole  rise  be- 
ing 121  feet ;  then  il  ascends  the  oouthern  slope  of  the  Morth 
Valley  Hill,  to  the  summit  of  the  mine  ridge  at  the  Gap. 


ill.* 


*  The  Valley  Creek  viaduct  has  four  spans,  each  of  130  feet;  piers  of 
rubble  masonry,  49  ieet  high ;  tlie  first  erection  \v&9  destroyei)  hy  fire; 
tlie  present  i.s  n  lattice  bridge;  the  rail-way  is  on  ilie  top;  cost,  $17,218. 

East  Brandy  wine  v'adtict  is  477  feet  long,  and  30  feet  above  the  water; 
cost,  $17,5'23.  West  Vraudywino  viaduct  is  835  feet  long,  72  feet  aiiovo 
the  water;  cost,  $57,916 ;  the  rail-wny  being  on  the  top  like  rhe  vailry 
viaduct.  The  wooden  superstructure  resets  on  iibnimeiits  and  piers  of 
coursed  masonry,  with  rustic  faces  nr  rock  work.  On  the  Columbia  and 
Pinladelphia  Rail-road  are  75  culverts  of  stone,  in  rubble  woik,  spans  of 
four  to 25  lent;  22  rail-way  bridgen  or  viaducts,  on  stone  abutments  or 
pier?,  01,425  porches  of  masonry,  and  7,212  feet  of  wooden  platform,  and 
33  bridges  across  the  rail-way,  for  public  and  private  roads  'V\\b  IVat 
Chester  Branch  Rail-way  is  10  miles  long,  using  horse  power.  The 
Harrisbvrg  Rail-way  is  40  niili's  long,  using  steam  power,  both  are  char- 
tered companies.  Total  cost  of  the  Columbia  and  Philadelphia  Ua.il- road, 
iucluding  &  new  road  to  avoid  Columbia  plane,  f  4,296,' 96. 


i 


, 


(I 


372 


A^yroach  to  Lancaster. 


If  the  season  and  weather  admits  of  an  outside  seat  on  top 
of  the  cars,  it  is  preferable  in  some  respects,  as  presenting  an 
unobstructed  view  of  the  best  and  richest  portion  of  the  State 
of  Pennsylvania,  that  is  here  an  undulating  country  of  fertile 
vallej's  and  agreeable  slopes,  thickly  dotted  and  interspersed 
with  houses  and  villages,  giving  every  indication  of  wealth 
and  comfort  in  an  agricultural  point  of  view.  At  the  dis- 
tance of  20  miles  from  Philadelphia  the  line  is  intersected  by 
a  branch  road  to  V/est  Chester  of  nine  miles  in  length; 
thence  it  passes  by  Downingstown,  (Trom  whence  a  branch 
rail-road  diverges  north-west  to  R,eading,  on  the  Schuylkill, 
at  the  east  termination  of  the  Union  Canal;)  and  in  40  miles 
from  Philadelphia,  hy  Coatesville  head  waters  of  Brandy  wine 
Crfjek,  and  over  the  lofty  viaduct,  spjinning  a  deep  and  charm- 
ing valo  beneath,  with  a  bird's-eye  view  of  a  stone  bridge, 
mill-pond,  and  rich  lowlands,  at  52  miles  from  Philadelphia, 
arrives  at  the  Deep  Gap  Cut  at  Mine  Hill,  and  to  a  geologist 
an  interesting  section  of  the  road,  and  at  its  greatest  elevation 
above  tide  water  in  the  Delaware  of  555  feet.  Near  this  spot 
great  difficulty  and  expense  wat.  encountered  in  excavating 
a  hill,  of  a  soft,  spongy,  and  yielding  nature,  of  mud  of  differ- 
ent colors,  that  had  to  be  planked  over  on  piles,  and  nu- 
merous piles  driven  down  at  the  side  to  prevent  or  keep  down 
the  upward  pressure  of  the  semi-fluid  mass,  ever  which  the 
road  pauses  on  a  trough- shaped  but  apparonily  secure  bed  or 
bridge  of  stout  plank  and  timber. 

Hence  the  road  descends,  after  crossing  Pequea  and  Mill 
Creeks,  the  Big  Conestoga,  and  enters  the  city  of  Lancaster. 
I'iie  Pequea  viaduct  is  a  span  of  135  feet ;  cost  $8,735 ;  that 
of  Mill  Creek  is  650  feet  in  the  platform,  40  feet  above  water; 
cost  S9,273;  that  of  Big  Conestoga  is  1,412  feet  long,  60 
feet  above  water,  piers  of  rubble  masonry ;  the  superstructure 
of  lattice  work  on  Town's  plan ;  cost  $31,503;  tho  largest 
span  is  120  feet.  The  others  are  on  Burns*  plan,  as  is  the 
viaduct  over  the  Little  Conestoga,  (v/est  of  Lancaster,)  of  804 
feet  in  the  flooring, 47  feet  above  water;  cost  $15,350. 

Tite  approach  to  Lancaster  is  peculiarly  line,  winding 
around  among  lofty  hills,  and  passing  a  viaduct  over  the 
Conestoga  Creek,  that  has  a  remarkably  meandering  course 
through  the  rich  bottom  lands.  Sine ;.  leaving  mine  ridge,  the 
waters  take  towards  the  valley  of  the  Susquehannah  on  the 
west. 

Lancaster  has  about  9,000  inhabitants,  most  of  Qerman 


Valley  of  Chester  County. 


373 


l-l 


descent,  and  having  their  newspapers  and  almanacs  in  that 
language.  Rifles  are  made  here.  There  are  other  manufacto- 
ries and  mills  on  the  Conestoga  Creek  adjacent, that  joins  the 
Susquehannnh  in  nine  miles ;  here  is  a  court  and  a  market 
house,  u  jail  and  large  school,  two  churches  for  German 
Lutherans  and  Calvinists,  and  one  each  for  Presbyterians, 
Episcopalians,  Catholics,  Methodists,  Moravians,  and  Friends. 

Scarcely  any  part  of  the  United  States  presents  a  more 
beautiful  succession  of  hill  and  dale,  verdant  slope  and  gush- 
ing  springs,  than  thai  between  Phjludclphia  and  Lancaster  • 
the  valley,  however,  of  Chester  County,  including  Downingg- 
town,  exceeds  every  other,  except  the  site  of  Lancaster,  in 
fertility  and  rural  enjoyment.  It  is  about  25  miles  in  length 
by  one  in  breadth,  and  has  a  general  direction  from  north' 
east  to  south-west.  The  rock  throughout  this  valley  is  calca- 
reous, and  the  soil  is  consequently  of  a  superior  quality.  This 
limestone,  that  has  been  as$iiduously  examined  by  the  mine- 
ralogists and  naturalists  of  Philadelphia,  though  not  very  dis- 
similar to  that  of  the  Western  States,  except  in  the  high  in- 
clination of  the  strata  and  the  predominance  of  spar,  has 
never  yet  been  found  to  contain  any  kind  of  organic  remains; 
but  Chester  County  presents  to  the  geologist  and  mineralo- 
gist a  rich  field  for  investigation ;  it  lias  a  cabinet  of  Natural 
Sciences,  with  a  fine  collection  of  minerals  and  an  extensive 
herbarium. 

The  traveler  has  thus  far  passed  thr^ujih  the  counties  of 
Pliiladetphia,  a  corner  of  Delaware  and  Monlgiimery,  and 
entirely  through  those  of  Chester  and  Lancaster,  and  is  now 
rapidly  nearin.^;  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Alleghany  Moun- 
tains, that  he  begins  to  distinguish  at  a  distance  from  any 
previously  passed,  by  their  superior  altitude  and  wild  wood- 
ed appearance.  He  passes  through  Mount  Pleasant,  seven 
miles  from  Lancaster,  and  in  five  more  is  at  the  head  o'  the  in- 
clined  plani,  i,'*^00  feet  long,  and  enters  lae  town  o.  Colum- 
bia on  the  Susquehannah,  whe.-e  the  rail-road  terminates  at 
82  miles  from  Philadelphia,'"  under  the  great  bridge.  And 
here  a  rail-road  begins  on  the  bridge,  that  leads  to  Yorkf 

*A»«ior«ut«or«ix  miles  Ifingis  to  t)P  made  to  dispense  with  this  sncoml 
inclined  plane,  tli«  ^rade  l>eing  only  35  foot  |»er  mile.  The  fVett  PhUa- 
nielphia  rail-way  «t'eight  miles  long,  witli  57  feet  per  niiio  grade,  will  aUo 
obviuto  the  first  inclined  phne,  at  .57  to  43  to  the  Schuyikiil;  also  the 
Valley  and  Norristown  route  of  331  miles,  only  adding  two  and  oue«ighth 
wilefito  the  dUtouce  ;  the  grade  tieing  3t)  to  37i  feet  ixer  niiie. 

3^4 


I  mm 


374 


Canal  along  the  Susquehannah. 


13  miles  off  to  the  west ;  from  thence  is  a  rail-road  to  Balti< 
more,  65  miles.  (Seepage  .)  If  the  traveler  is  not  in  a  hurry 
to  get  on,  he  may  linger  a  few  hours  in  this  place  very  pleas- 
antly— cross  the  bridge  of  a  mile  in  length — sketch  the  scene- 
ry, embracing  many  little  rocky  islets  in  the  river,  and  rocky 
ledges,  and  the  banks  of  the  river  bounded  in  the  distance  by 
spurs  of  the  mountuin  ridges  jutting  in  the  stream. 

Immense  quantities  of  lumber,  boards,  &c.  are  hero  de- 
posited on  the  banks  of  the  river,  waiting  for  a  market  at 
Baltimore. 


^       Caeial  along:  the  liusqueliannah. 

The  transfer  of  persons,  baggage,  and  Affreights,  &c.  from 
the  rail-road  to  the  canal  boats,  and  vice  versa,  here  take* 
place,  and  those  who  do  not  end  their  jaunt  here,  as  many 
citizens  do  in  the  warm  season,  must  prepare  for  an  entire 
new  change  of  scene  and  of  the  style  of  traveling  for  the 
next  70  or  80  hours,  until  they  arrive  at  Pittsburgh. 

Entering  into  a  canal  boat  that  proceeds  up  the  eastern 
side  of  the  river,  where  in  many  places  a  scanty  room  has 
been  boldly  scooped  out  of  the  sleep  and  rocky  hill  side  for 
the  passage  of  the  canal,  while  on  the  other  the  river  glides 
in  close  contact,  and  so  continues  for  28  miles  to  Harris- 
burgh,  passing  Marietta  in  three  miles  from  Columbia, 
Bainbridge  in  8i.\  and  a  half,  Falmouth  three  and  a  half, 
and  arriving  at  Middletown  in  four  and  a  half,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Swatara  Cr^ek,  and  ther**  also  intersecting  the  Union 
Canal,*  leading  to  Reading  on  !he  Schuylkill,  50  miles  east. 

The  inclined  plane  at  Columbia  is  1,800  feet  long  and  90  feet  fall ;  the 
engine-house  at  tbe  head  is  of  brick,  with  a  machine  of  40  horse  power; 
double  tracks  pass  cars  up  and  down  simultar.eously  bore,  as  is  alsodoiio 
&t  tbo  plane  near  the  Schuylkill. 


*  This  following  up  the  valley  of  the  Swatara,  extends  for  50  miles  in  a 
rorth-east  direction,  to  a  point  on  the  Schuylkill  Canal  and  river,  two 
miles  below  Reading;  there  is  a  feeder  of  24  miles  long  from  near  thn 
sources  of  the  Swatara;  and  aiso  a  tunnel  of  729  feet,  IS  wide  end  14 
high  ;  two  summit  reservoirs,  containing  12,000,000  cf  cubic  feet  of  water, 
one  covering  27,  the  other  ei<rht  acres;  two  stean-cngines,  each  of  100 
horse  power,  and  three  water  wheels  for  feeding  the  canal  by  pumping, 
two  dams,  4J  wasie  weirs,  49  culverts,  135  bridges,  12  small  and  two  large 
aqueducts,  two  guard  locks  of  wood,  92  jut  stnno  locks,  and  14  miles  of 


Harruhurgh, 


876 


From  Middletown  rcsijming  our  route,  we  continue  along 
by  the  Susqnehannah  for  three  intlei)  to  High<«pirctovvn,  an<( 
in  six  and  a  quarter  miles  arrive  at  Flarrisburgh,  the  >ieat  of 
government  of  the  State  of  Pennsylvania. 

Ilarrisburgli  is  a  well  built  brick  city,  of  4,000  to  5,000  in- 
habitants, with  the  elegant  edifices  of  the  State-house/pub. 
lie  officios,  several  churches,  and  a  bridge  and  viaduct,  both 
of  an  imposing  character,  and  of  one  mile  in  extent,  here 
spanning  the  noble  Susquehannah  60  feet  above  the  river, 
(see  page  367.) 

The  capitol  stands  on  a  gentle  eminence  and  commands  a 
fine  view  of  the  Susquehannah  and  the  surrounding;  country. 
'J'he  chambers  of  the  Senate  and  House  of  Hepresentativeu 
are  large,  light,  and  well  arranged  to  accommodate  the  c<d- 
lected  wisdom  of  the  Stale.  The  Speaker  of  the  lower  houso 
occupies  the  chair  that  .John  Hancock  >Ht  in  when  the  De- 
claration of  Independence  was  si£i;nnd  in  I'hiladelphia. 

From  the  opposite  or  west  bank  ot*  the  river  a  rail- road 
extends  to  Carlisle  18  miles,  and  thence  to  Chambersburgh 
31  miles,  from  whence  it  will  eventually  be  extended  to  Pitts- 
burgh, and  also  south  to  the  Maryland  line,  and  intersect 
the  Baltimore  an«l  Ohio  Rail-road  at  Hagerstown,  18  miles. 

From  Harrisburgh  we  still  continue  on  the  ed^t  bank 
of  the  Susquehannah  for  seven  and  a  half  miles  to  Port 
Dnuphin,  and  in  eight  and  a  half  arrive  at  the  place  dfcrosii. 
ing  to  the  west  bank  of  the  Susquehannah  at  Duncan's  Island, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Juniata,  where  the  Susquehannah  is 
passed  by  a  towing-path  bridge. 

For  the  distance  of  several  miles  past,  ilie  canal  is  at  the 
b  .-ii'  ')■(  a  mountain  that  skirts  the  east  side  of  the  river  with 
,  <ft  ■  I  .nd  imposing  effect,  forcing  the  bed  of  the  oanal  to  he 
f.  <o  n  the  rock,  and  raised  above  and  protected  from 
the  •;  .s  .floods  of  the  river  by  a  strong,  high,  an<l  mighty 
wall  or  ciemi-cmbanUmcnt  of  stone,  laid  in  a  solid,  master- 
ly, and  everlasting  style,  like  the  works  of  the  old  Romans, 
and  in  this  way  it  opens  into  a  spacious  deep  pool  or  ex- 
panse of  water,  made  to  rise  to  a  lovel  with  the  canal  by  a 
dam  acros.s  the  river,  and  of  course  causing  a  wide  fail  or 

protection  waP  of  stone;  wi<!th  of  tlie  canal  at  the  surface  36  foet,  and 
24  at  tlie  bottom,  ai.j  four  feet  in  tiepih  ;  locks,  75  feet  long  and  eight  and 
ii  half  wido ;  tiere  is  also  connectt  ^  with  this  canul,  a  rail-road  of  four 
:xileRii\  '..igth,  extending  from  the  baoin  at  Piue  Grove  to  thocool  niinca. 
«- i/sit  of  the  whole  of  the  worki,  $9,000,000. 


1, 


1  \i     ♦  '    ' 

'  ■'  •  M  i 


ti  Km 


i 


m 


376 


DuncarCi  Island. 


cascade  that  reaches  to  Di^.ncan's  Island  and  the  west  aide 
beyond ;  the  horaes  cross  on  a  high  bridge  or  tow-path  to 
the  island,  but  this  and  (he  dam  are  liable  to  be  soon  and 
easily  destroyed  by  the  heavy  freshets  and  the  ice;  this 
is  unavoidable.  The  canaUhoat,  after  passing  across  above 
the  dam  in  the  manner  described,  enters  a  lock  of  durable, 
massive,  and  superior  masonry,  and  continues  on  up  the 
valley  in  a  westerly  direction,  side  with  the  wild,  rough  banks 
of  the  JuniatOj  that  hero  disgorges  \U  superfluous  floods  into 
the  lap  or  receptacle  of  the  Susquehannah. 

Travelers  so  disposed  can  stop  at  the  hotel  on  Duncan's 
Island,  that  contains  360  acres,  and  is  25  feet  above  the  river, 
and  in  part  cohered  with  trees,  that  shade  and  conceal  the 
hoiise  and  the  i  r  '  r^'two  to  three  miles,  that  is  pleasant  for 
a  walk  or  ride  at>.  '  the  green,  quiet  island,  amid  patches 
of  cultivation. 

The  canal  skirts  the  island  for  a  mile  to  the  north-west, 
then  is  led  over  the  Juniata  by  an  aqueduct  made  of  wood 
and  covered. 

From  Duncan's  Uland  we  proceed  in  a  north-west  direc- 
tion for  10  miles  tu  Newport,  on  the  west  side  of  Juniata 
River,  and  in  six  miles  arrive  at  the  lower  aqueduct,  and 
cross  it  to  the  north  or  left  bank  of  the  Juniata,  and 
arrive  at  Thompsontown  in  five  miles,  Mexico  in  seven, 
Mifflintown  in  four,  Lewistown  in  14  miles.  This  is  a  thriv- 
ing place  of  2,000  inhabitants,  and  is  one  of  the  new  crea- 
tions arising-  from  the  new  route  of  trade  and  intercommuni- 
cation of  Pennsylvania.  The  places  previously  seen,  are  all 
of  some  attraction,  but  this  excelleth.  Here  the  valley  of 
the  Juniata  takes  a  south-west  <lirecti(>n,  and  passes  Waynes- 
burgh  in  10  miles,  and  recross^-s  to  the  south  bank  by 
the  aqueduct,  and  continues  for  a  fow  miles,  and  again  re- 
crosses  the  Juniata  at  a  hend  in  the  river  near  Mamiltonville, 
and  continues  on  the  north  shore  to  Aughweck  Falls  12 
miles,  Huntington  17  miles,  Pelersbura  seven,  Alexandria 
seven,  Williamsburg  13,  Frankatown  10,  and  in  three  more 
to  its  point  of  termination  at  HoHidaysburp,  in  a  largo  basin 
and  warehouses,  havmg  traveled  171  and  three  quarter  miles 
of  canal  from  Columliia,  and  attained  here  to  an  elevation 
of  910  feet  above  title  water  at  Philadelphia;  passed  111 
locks,  making  747|  feet  lift  in  all ;  canal  40  feet  wide  at 
top,  28  at  bottom,  and  four  feet  deep,  and  having  18  dams, 
33  aqueducts,  and  16  miles  of  slack  water  navigation,    A 


Alleghany  Portage  Rail-road. 


377 


change  in  the  mode  of  conveyance  a^ain  occurs,  the  canni 
is  left  and  cars  rcceivo  passengers,  baggage,  and  merchan- 
dise soon  as  the  transfek'  can  be  cficcted. 

The  city  resident  that  is  fortunate  in  his  ability  to  enjoy 
(he  thrilling  scenes  of  wildness  and  grandeur  that  are  con- 
stantly presented  in  advanr'ng  up  this  gorge  amid  the  bow- 
ers and  secret  penetralia  of  the  Alleghanies,  may  luxuriate 
from  the  deck  of  the  canal  boat  for  a  few  hours,  in  contem- 
plating the  rapid  and  magical  changes  as  they  pass  in  review 
the  ptimitive  face  of  nature — glens,  lofty  precipices,  and 
mountains,  clad  in  all  the  beauty  and  luxuriance  of  orii>inal 
creation,  contrasted  with  the  intrusions  of  man  into  these 
domains,  his  bold  attempts  to  form,  in  defiance  of  obstacles 
innumerable,  a  way  to  enable  him  to  connect  or  communi- 
cate with  facility,  extreme  and  remote  places,  that  nature 
had  apparently  defended  by  ramparts  and  barriers,  to  pre- 
clude all  attempts  of  man  to  overcome. 

Another  transfer  in  the  mode  ofconveyance  now  occurs  for 
I  he  next  37  miles,  across  the  ridges  of  the  Alleghanies  that 
divide  the  waters  that  run  eastward,  from  those  llmt  <»n  the 
western  side  seek  the  channel  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi. 
The  eastern  slope  is  much  the  steepest,  and  the  traveler  will 
hardly  have  time  here  to  look  around  him  and  contemplato 
the  scene,  before  he  will  he  summoned  to  enter  the  cars,  and 
will  soon  arrive  in  four  miles  at  inclined  plane  No.  10,  and 
in  six  and  a  half  miles  at  No.  G,  another  plane,  and  in  nine 
at  the  mountain  bridge;  in  three  more  at  the  bridge;  in  10 
more  at  the  Staple  Bend  Tunnel;  and  in  four  and  a  half  at 
Johnstown  on  the  Conemaitgh  or  Kiskiniinitas.* 

The  Alles^hnny  Porl age  Rail-road  commences  at  Hollidays- 
burgh,  and  crossing  the  mountain  at  Blair's  Gap  Summit, 
thence  descends  the  vulley  of  the  Conemaugh  to  Johnstown, 
(where  the  western  division  of  the  canal  commences,)  over- 
coming in  its  ascent  and  descent,  2,570  feet,  1,398  of  which 
are  on  the  eastern,  and  1,172  on  the  western  side  of  the 
mountain.    Two  thousand  and  seven  feet  of  the  ascent  and 


'til  m 


^Income  of  1836. 

Schuylkill  Navigation  Company,      ....  $490,078 

Union  Canal, 1.33,025 

Lohigh    «lo I0-J,000 

Pennsylvania  State  Canal, 860,000 

New- York        do.        do 1,550,000 

Open  15tb  April— shut  Nov. 


m 


••«>»>    ;5'4i| 


I    I 


3?9 


Alleghany  Portage  Rail-road. 


I 


deRcent  ard  overcome  by  planes  of  various  inclinations,  and 
for  163  feet  by  grading  or  slopes  of  the  rail- road.  There  are 
also  on  this  short  but  elevated  line,  four  extensive  viaducts, 
an  1  a  tunnel  870  feet  long  and  20  feet  high,  making  a  cut 
through  the  Staple  Bend  Mountain  of  the  Conemaugh  River. 
The  rail- road  is  made  25  feet  wide  for  two  sets  of  tracks,  and 
its  greatest  elevation  above  tide  water  is  2,491  feet,  and  its 
cost,  SI, 526.000. 

We  now  commence  the  descent  of  the  western  division  of 
the  Pennsylvania  Canal,  that  at  Johnstown  is  elevated  1,154 
feet  above  the  Atlantic,  and  taking  a  north-west  course,  ar< 
rive  at  Laurel  Hill ;  Fairfield,  six  and  a  half  miles ;  Lockport, 
nine  and  a  half;  Chesnut  Hill,  five  ;  Blairsville,  eight ;  Saltz- 
burg,  16';  salt  works,  seven  ;  Warrenton,  five ;  Leechburg, 
10;  and  in  three  miles  reach  the  aqueduct,  that  here  cross- 
es to  the  west  side  of  the  Alleghany  River,  and  in  two  miles 
arrive  at  Freeport;  thence  south-west,  at  13  at  Logan's  Fer- 
ry  ;  at  12  Pine  Creek  ;  and  in  seven,  after  passing  a  rubble 
aqueduct,  arrive  at  Pittsburgh,  and  passing  through  Grant's 
Hill  by  a  tunnel,  emerge  into  the  Mononguhcia,  104  miles 
from  Johnstown.  Exclusive  of  all  side  cuts  and  branches', 
the  canals  overcome  1,178  feet  of  ascent  and  descent,  and 
the  rail-roads  3,416  feet ;  total,  4,594  feet. 

The  annexed  table  may  be  useful  in  a  topographical  point 
of  view.  It  shows  the  height  of  the  most  important  places  on 
the  main  line  above  :ide,  and  the  diflerences  in  level  between 
them.  It  also  gives  the  distances  of  the  same  points  from 
Philadelphia  and  from  each  other.  The  distances  are  measur- 
ed by  the  route  of  the  public  works,  and  the  'avels  are  those 
of  the  canal  or  rail-road  at  the  points  named. 

The  mode  of  usuing  the  table  will  be  evident  on  examina- 


iion. 


-■:._:    ,p'    ■'-    ■::■■     t'- '■-•y'^''*'i>f'      ?'-•?:    '•»-,,S^  i:-5t' -  '-i    '::•'."■ 


'X'-' 


.•i-^wtVil.:'^. 


:  I 


;•  '„-   ■  "  '1. 


Sujj^v'*    fi.-.»'A    -j)j,-'.,i  t«'ijr. 


■>A^  Distance  and  Elevationt. 


J 

1 

.t; 

Table  oreleralioii  aiul  din- 

• 

i 

E 

_5 

•1 

E 

g 

m 

a. 

tnnces  on  llie   main  line 

« 

w) 

- 

A 

• 

s 

1. 

, 

. 

of  the  I'cnniylvni  In  In* 
ternal  Improveraenti. 

"»» 

•1 

s 

1 

V 

Bl 

>• 
It 

1 

s 

If 

9 

"O 

B 

JIM 

sS 

^ 

« 

• 

.• 

i-O 

a 

V 

S 

*t 

V 

w 

k 

&■ 

w 

M 

' 

MM 

■E 

"o 

«3 

i 

S 

"c 

3 

c 

"a 

w 

«>• 

t, 

S 

O 

ii 

o 

T 

a 

>->_ 

s 

Ci. 

*» 

16  el 

^^" 

•  ■• 

<B^V 

— . 

Philadeli'lila,     .... 

rnilen 

set 

237 

2Sb 

312 

332 

601 

928 

2327 

1151 

904 

761 

680 

Mine  ridge  summit,    .    . 

5i 

323 

270 

248 

■228 

44 

368 

1787 

591 

344 

2fl 

120 

Colnmbia, 

S2 

3( 

53 

75 

95 

367 

691 

2'  9!i 

914 

667 

024 

443 

Middletown 

101 

4& 

19 

2i 

42 

MA 

63ft 

2037 

861 

614 

47] 

390 

Ilanishuvgh,      .... 

nil 

5S 

2S 

9 

2U 

•,92 

616 

2015 

839 

592 

449 

368 

Duncan'*  Itland,   .    .    . 

125 

73 

43 

21 

15 

272596 

199'. 

819 

572 

429 

318 

Ituniingdnn,      .... 

215 

)63 

133 

114 

105 

91' 

324 

1723 

647 

SiO 

157 

7a 

Ilullidiiytburgli,     .    .    . 

254 

2i"^ 

17-2 

153 

114 

1V9 

39 

1399 

223 

24 

167 

248 

Ulair's  Uap  Summit, 

SG'i 

21  w 

182 

163 

154 

139 

49 

10 

1176 

1423 

1566 

1617 

Johnstown 

291 

236 

2' 9 

jl9t 

181 

16S 

76 

37 

27 

217 

390 

471 

Claii'sville,    .    .    .    .     , 

321 

•;tjD 

239 

2*2(1211 

196 

106 

67 

57 

at; 

113 

224 

Freepurt, 

3661  314 

v84 

•:65|2:)6 

.41 

151 

112 

I'J!/ 

75 

44 

81 

Piittbiirgli, 

3»5|3I3 

313 

294 1285 

J;7(t 

Idi 

Ml 

131 

104 

71 

29 

The  canal  down  from  Johnstown  to  Pittsburgh  is  104  miles 
in  length,  has  64  locks,  (and  four  on  a  side  branch  canal  to 
Alleghany,)  and  471  feet  of  lockage,  10  darns,  two  tunnels,  16 
aqueducts,  64  culverts,  39  waste  weirs,  and  152  bridges. 
The  whole  distance  by  the  foregoing  routes  of  raiUroads, 
canals,  and  planes  between  Philadelphia  and  Pittsburgh,  is 
395  miles,  being  just  100  miles  further  than  on  the  old  turn- 
pike and  stage-road  between  the  two  places:  tho  passage 
costs  usually  about  $10,  which  is  very  moderate;  the  con- 
course of  travelers  on  this  route  is  great,  and  the  raerchan- 
disc  and  freight  also  of  immense  value ;  the  revenue  produced 
by  the  lolls  in  1830,  was  $860,000.  . 
Canal  tolls  in  1838,        .         .         .         .         .     $415,631 

Rail  road  tolls, 305,827 

Motive  Power,      , 237,877 


illfii! 


^;: 

'i;, 

1^' 

•  •.!,     i 

1 

|i 

*'Ji 

i JVi.  '; 

?, 

.a. 

i'" 

,.'.) 

■■  ^!}- 

\ 

a*' 

■«: ' 

<■  ; 

■i^_; 


Total,    $959,335 


Traveliiigr  to  the  ^Vest  and  Soutli.    . 

Distances  and  expenwe  In  traveling  down  the  Ohio  (o  New 
Orleans,  and  up  the  Mississippi  to  St.  Louis  and  the  Falls 
of  St.  Antl  ouy.  The  following  table,  prepared  with  care, 
is   as    nearly    accurate  an   any    such  table  can    bo  made. 


K*. 


380 


Traveling  to  the  We»t  and  South. 


There  are  contingent  circumsrances — the  low  slate  of  ihe 
Ohio  River,  the  overflow  of  passengers,  &,c.  that  may  vary  the 
rAtes  a  little,  but  in  general  the  following  are  the  uniform 
charges. 

It  is  proper,  however,  to  inform  all  those  who  travel  west, 
that  they  cannot  always  procure  a  passage  from  Pittsburgh 
down  ihe  river  to  Louisville,  for  there  are  seasons,  betiidca 
those  of  winter,  when  the  steam-boats  cannot  run  on  account 
of  the  drought.  Those  periods  are  from  about  the  15th  July 
to  the  middle  of  September,  the  water  then  being  so  low  that 
not  more  than  12  or  18  inches  are  to  be  found  on  some  of  the 
bars  and  shoals.  There  are  occasionally  exceptions;  for  there 
may  be  swells  from  rains,  immediate  or  remote,  but  in  gene- 
ral the  fact  is  as  stated. 


From  Pittsburgh  to  MiU$. 

Economy, 18 

,   Beaver,  Pa.        .       .        .       ,-  |8 " 

Wellsville,  0 20    " 

Steulieiiville,  O.        .        .       ''.  23 

Wcll.sI)urgh,Va 7 

Wlieeling,  Va.  ....  16 

^   Marietta,  O.         ....  84 

,;.  Parkersb<irgh,  Vo.    .        .        .  12 

:  Point  Pleasant 80 

Galiopolis,(.> 4 

*  Gnyaiidott,  Va 36 

*  Portsmouth,  O.         ...  55 

Miiyosville,  Ky .'lO 

Ripley,  0 12 

,     Cincinnati,  0 53 

''  Port  William,  Mo.  Ky.  river,  .        80 

Madison,  iml 20 

VVestport.  Ky.  ...        .        .        22 

Loui»ville,  Ky 28 

Rome,  Ind 100 

Troy,  Ind 35 

Yellow  Banks,  Ky.    ...        30 

Evansville,  Ind 50 

Henderson,  Ky.  ...  12 
Shawnnotown,  HI.  .  .  .55 
Smithfield,  Mo.  of  Cumberland,  6) 
Mouth  of  Oliio,  .  .  .  .65 
A'cw  Madrid,  Mo.     ...        75 

Memphis, 'I  ean 150 

'    Hftlenn,  Ark 85 

s"!  Vickshurph,  Mis 300 

Natch>>z,  Miss.  .  .  .  110 
JNew  Orleans,  La.     .       .       .300 


\: 


Miles. 

Fare. 

5   75 

30 

1  50 

50 

1  50 

73 

2  (!0 

2  50 

3  00 

180 

5  00 

192 

6  00 

272 

8  0(1 

276 

8  no 

312 

8  50 

367 

9  no 

417 

10  00 

4:9 

10  00 

482 

12  00 

562 

12  UO 

582 

♦  '  12  00 

004 

12  00 

633 

12  00 

732 

«  20  00 

767 

r^-rcn   20  on 

797 

'   so  00 

847 

22  00 

859 

•  22  00 

914 

22  00 

979 

25  00 

1,044 

fv«  V  25  00 

1,119 

28  00 

1,269 

35  00 

1,35J 

'  H   38  00 

1,654 

^if  %      40  00 

1.764 

,.  . ,.      40  00 

2,064 

:,'■  45  00 

if.  t^-i     DtMtanceM on  the  Aiu$i$*ippi.  ■'    '      381 

The  above  are  the  rates  of  what  is  called  cabin  passage,  and 
includes  boanling.  Deck  passengers  find  themseives,  and 
are  carried  at  about  one-fourth  of  these  rales.  The  part  of 
the  boat  occupied  by  the?o  is  comfortable  enough,  has  berths 
and  some  conveniences  for  cooking.  It  is  a  cheap  and  rapid, 
but  not  very  desirable  mode  uf  traveling. 

The  foUowinj^  is  copied  from  a  statement  compiled  from 
good  authorities: 

From  St.  Louia  to  Missouri  River, 1 6  miles. 

Alton,  llliuuis, 6  lt4 

HatnburfT.do 15  30 

Clarksville,  Mo 60  09 

Louisianu,  do 1*2  1 1 1 

Savcrton,  do 2.1  134 

Hannibal,  do 7  141 

Marion  city,  do 10  151 

Qiiincy,  HI 10  Ifil 

Lagrange,  Mo 12  178 

Tully,  do .        .        .  8  ISl 

Warsiaw,  111.  near  Fort  Edward, 90  201 

Mouth  or  De  Moines  River,  Mo 2  203    , 

Keokuk,  Iowa, 1  204 

ConimorRc,  111.  head  De  Moines  Rapids,  ....        18  222 

Appanoose,  do.  oppo8itc  Fort  Madison,      .        .        .        .10  2.13 

Burlington,  lown, 20  252 

Yellow  Banks,  111 15  267 

New  Boston,  III.  opposite  Mo. Iowa  River,      ...        15  282    ; 

Jo  A'a,  near  mouth  of  Pire  Iliver, 35  317    • 

Rockporl,  III.  mouth  ofRock  River,       ....        10  327    . 
Montevideo,  Iowa,  opposite  Rockport, 

Scnasepo,       do. 4  831    j 

Steven«un,  III 5  330 

Davenport,  Iowa,  opposite  Stevenson, 

Rock  bland,  HI.  foot  of  Rapid.s I  337 

Cana^in,  do  head  of  R.  J.  Rapids 18  355 

New  Philadelphia,  Iowa,     .        .        .        •  ^  ;.'       .        .    40  395  , 

Savanna,  III *'"    *        >        20  415    ; 

Smithvilie,  do 10  425 

Belleview,  lowl^, 6  431 

Fever  River,  111 6  437 

Galena, 8  445 

Du  Biiqne,  Iowa, .        .        .30  475 

Cussville,  Wisconsin  Territory,        .        .        .        .        .        30  505 

Prairie  La  Porte, 8  513 

Prairie  Dn  Chien, 22  535    . 

Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  about      <» 2ii5  800 

Price  of  passage  the  same  as  on  the  Ohio  River,  viz.  about 
$3  per  100  miles  for  long  distances,  and  four  to  five  cents 


'','<■ 


H 


t\' 


rvHJ 


m 


m 


I 


382        Return  Route  from  Pittsburgh  to  Philadelphia. 

per  mile  for  short  ones.  Dock  pasaengers*  about  $1  per  100 
miles.  The  usiinl  speed  of  the  boat$  is  six  niilcH  an  hour 
up  Rtrcain,  and  10  down. 

■  ■■■      Mi'       %«'    -. 


Iletum  Route  from  Plttubnrgh  to  Philadelphia. 

Find  out,  if  possible,  a  boat  starting  in  tlio  morning  on  the  canal  to  scq 
till)  Allflj^tiany  River,  and  travel  by  day-light  entirely,  if  it  <-an  bo  so 
arranged,  over  the  portage  or  mountain  part.  Soon  after  starting,  the 
canal  packet  entirrs  tlie  aqueduct  that  leads  over  the  Alleghany  River  to 
the  west  bank,  and  in  north-east  course,  fur  30  milc3,  pasjiMg  severni 
villages  to  the  mouth  of  the  Kiskiminetas,  that  comes  in  on  the  o.ist  side, 
auain  crossing  the  Alleghany  by  an  aqueduct  to  the  north  bank  of  the 
Kiskiminetas,  and  up  that  large  and  beautiful  stream  in  a  south-east  di< 
roction,  through  romaniic,  varied,  and  striking  scenery,  a  distance  of  100 
miles,  including  tile  (yonemaugh,  through  a  coal  and  ^lalt  rei;ion,  visible  in 
many  places  by  the  beams  and  strata  of  the  hills,  and  the  deep  auger 
borings  through  several  hundred  feet  of  solid  ruck,  to  reach  the  salt 
water. 

Past'ing  Leechburg  and  Saltzburgli  and  a  splendid  stone  aqueduct  con* 
ducts  the  canal  to  a  tunnel  800  feet  in  length,  that  saves  a  circuit  of  four 
miles.  A  tunnel  of  this  size,  of  which  400  feet  is  cut  through  limestone 
rock,  and  the-rcst  arched  with  solid  masonry,  iscertatidy  a  great  achieve- 
ment, and  the  approach  to  it  is  so  managed,  and  the  attention  of  the 
traveler  is  so  engrossed  with  the  beauties  of  the  scenery  while  pai<sing 
over  the  aqueduct,  and  the  imposing  entrance  of  tliO  great  archway  that 
suddenly  presents  itself,  that  he  is  overcome  with  the  sudden  change  as 
he  diveo  into  the  gloomy  and  cavern-like  perforation  that  is  soon  passed, 
and  the  boat  emerges  upon  the  bright  and  beautiful  scene  beyond,  caused 
by  the  expansion  of  the  canal  into  a  spacious  reservoir,  and  in  lU  miles 
more  arrives  at  Johnstown,  where  the  canal  this  side  ends  and  the  por- 
tage road  begins. 

First  ascent,  101  feet ;  in  four  miles  in  cars  with  horse  power  to  Plane 
No.  1,  150  feet;  length  1,608  feet;  then  through  another  tunnel  of 
000  feet  in  rock.  The  cars  then  go  by  stnani,  14  miles  in  ono  hour,  up  a 
gradual  ascent  of  190  feet,  pasiiiiig  tiie  Conemaiigh  on  a  viaduct  of  one 
semi-circular  arch  of  80  feet,  of  most  beautiful  construction  of  cut  stone, 
its  height  78  feet  from  the  foundation. 

Plane  No.  3,  i.s  3*2  in  height,  1,760  lung;  third  ascent,  14  feet  six  inch- 
es, and  l|miteslonff — horsepower. 

Plane  No.  3,  130  feet  high,  1,480  feet  long;  fourth  ascent,  19  feet,  and 
two  miles  lo:ig. 

Plane  No.  4,  188  feet  high,  2,196  feet  long;  fifth  accent,  26  feet,  and 
three  utiles  long. 

Plane  No.  5, 202  feet  high,  2,629  feet  long,  and  is  on  the  top  2,397  feet 
''abovetide,  and  l,40l)above  Hollidaysburgh,  and  1 .172  above  John:stown. 
'The  air  here  is  pure  and  cool.  The  summit  road  is  If  miles  long, 
and  has  a  stone  tavern.  The  descent  on  the  eastern  slope  is  much  greater 
than  the  western,  and  has  also  five  planes,  and  five  gradual  slopes,  the 
last  being  four  miles  long,  ending  at  the  basin  at  HoUidaysburgh  ;  this  is 
traveUd  by  the  can  without  atuam  or  borset^  by  the  impulse  of  gravity, 


Rtturn  Route  from  Pittsburgh  to  Philadelphia.        3S3 

•low  at  fir»t,but  soon  attainingf  most  fearful  apned,  gradually  checked  by 
a  slight  ascent  at  the  tenninatioii.* 

TravelerK  from  the  EuAterii  States  who  wish  to  visit  the  nearer  portion 
of  the  west,  and  behold  u  portion  of  the  glorious  Ohio  River,  and  that 
about  the  best  part  of  it,  and  afterwards  to  visit  the  interior  of  Virginia, 
and  touch  at  all  the  frequented  springs,  cannot  lake  an  easier  and  more 
gratifying  route  than  the  line  of  the  Pfnn$ylvania  Ruil-roatl  and  Canal 
to  Pittsburgh  V  and  tlience  down  llie  Ohio  to  the  great  Keuatoka,  or  to 
Ouyandotle,  and  up  the  vallyos  of  the  latter  rivers  to  the  Wiiite  Sulphur, 
a  distance  of  IGO  mili's,  over  a  good  road  through  a  romantic  country,  and 
by  au  established  lino  of  good  stogo-coachcs. 

*  "  The  viaduct  over  the  little  Conemaugh,  at  tho  Horse  Shoe  Bend,  has 
a  semi-circular  arcli  of  VO  feet.  Tho  height  of  thf  abutment  walls  from 
tlic  foundation  to  the  springing  line  of  the  arch  is  20  feel;  do.  from  low 
water  20  feet.  The  risi;  of  the  arch  is  40  feet.  The  distance  from  tho 
top  of  the  arch  to  the  top  of  the  parapet  is  9^  feet.  The  whole  height 
of  the  walls  above  the  foundation  is  78^  feet.  Ditto  above  the  surface 
of  low  water  iri  69.^  feet.  The  masonry  is  of  the  most  substantial  kind. 
Tho  stonorf  that  form  the  faces  of  the  walls  contain  from  12  to  25  cubic 
feet  each ;  the  beds  are  well  cut  and  fitted  together.  Width  at  top  of 
parapet  28  feet.  Ditto  at  foundation  40  do.  Cost  about  $52,000.  The 
viaduct  over  the  Ebensburg  branch  of  the  Conemaugh,  one  arch  ;  6pan  40 
feet;  ri.se  of  arch  10  feet;  height  of  walls  from  foundation  totopofparopet 
31}  feet;  ditto  from  low  water  27  feet;  width  ni  top  of  parapets  25  feet 
lU inches.  Cost  about  $8,600.  The  viaduct  over  the  mountain  branch  of 
the  Conemaugh: — one  arch  ;  span  40  feet;  ri>e  of  arch  10  feel;  height 
from  foundation  to  top  of  parapet  23^  feet;  ditto  from  surface  of  low 
water  17  feet;  width  at  top  25  feet  10  inches.  Cost  about  $6,500.  Tho 
viadurt  over  tho  Reaver  Dam  Branch  of  the  Juniata: — two  oblique  arch- 
es, each  of  40  feet  31  inches  npan  measured  on  the  skew  face,  and  33  feet 
measured  at  right  angles  to  the  axis  of  the  vault;  rise  of  arches  lOj  feet ; 
height  from  foundation  to  top  of  parapet  20  feet.    Cost  about  $10,000. 

"  Culverts. — There  are  68  culverts;  the  spans  vary  from  5  to  20  feet; 
they  are  built  of  stone  laid  in  lime  mortar;  the  faces  of  the  walls  at  the 
ends  are  built  of  hammered  stone  laid  in  courses  ;  the  coping  and  steps, 
and  the  voussoirs  that  form  the  hcad.s  of  the  arches,  are  smoothly  cut. 

"  jDratii«.--Thore  are  80  drains  of  from  two  to  three  feet  span;  the 
walls  are  laid  without  mortar.  The  viaducts,  culverts,  and  drains  make 
together  157  passages  for  water  under  the  rail-road. 

"Tho  inclined  planes  are  regular  in  descent,  from  the  top  to  a  point  200 
feet  from  the  foot,  and  terminate  in  a  circular  arc,  to  which  the  plane  and 
level  arc  langents.  Tho  descent  in  100  feet  is  shown  in  the  table.  Tho 
descent  in  thd  last  200  feet  is  tho  tfcime  as  iu  100  feet  above.  The  inclined 
planes  are  all  straight  in  plan. 

"The  entire  cost  of  the  Portage  Rail-road,  with  single  track,  machine- 
ry, and  single  stationary  engines  at  the  inclined  planei ,  is  about  $1,1 55,000. 
The  cost  of  laying  a  second  track  is  about  $295,Clt0.  The  cost  of  an- 
other set  of  stationary  engines  is  about  $25,000.    Total  $1,475,000. 

^^Description  of  the  Machinery.— FirH  Set  of  Engines :  The  system 
of  machinery  adopted  at  the  inclined  planes  of  the  Portage  Rail-way  is 
different  in  many  of  its  features  from  thn  plans  heretofore  adopted  in  Eu- 
rope and  this  country.  The  trade  on  this  road  will  preponderate  in  dif- 
ferent directions  at  different  seasons  of  the  year;  and  in  consequence  it 


j!'i 


ill 


•  '111 


u  ■  -^ 

I  I': 


*■    :-X\ 

\  m 


384        JUturn  Route  from  PitUhurgh  to  Philadelphia* 


WM  deemed  neeeennry  to  place  stcnin  engines  at  all  the  planoa,  nnd  alto 
to  arrange  tho  macliinni-y  so  iliut  tlipy  may  bo  nelf-actinir  if  necessary. 

••Two  veriicH?  sheaves*  of  cast  iron,  8.J  feet  in  diameter,  and  inrn- 
ed  in  the  gtoovoet  so  as  ^o  he  exactly  ttimilur  to  oacii  other  in  form 
and  dimRnsions,  are  placed,  one  iii  the  centre  of  onch  ruii-way  traek,alinut 
100  feet  fro:n  tho  head  of  the  plane ;  the  topn  of  them  extending  six  inches 
above  the  rcila.  The  nhnfts  on  which  these  sheaves  are  placed,  are  goercd 
together  by  equal  ipur  wheels  four  feet  in  diameter^  so  ub  to  revolve  iu 
opposite  directions.  Intheplanef  pasdinjir  throufth  the  bottom  of  thcsu 
nhenves,  and  in  a  pit  between  tiiem  and  the  bead  of  tho  (inclined)  plane,  a 
horizontal  shouve,  (the  diameter  of  which  la  equal  to  the  distance  bo< 
tween  tho  centres  of  the  tracks,)  is  placed,  tho  groove  of  which  in  also 
turned  smooth.  This  Inst  is  fitted  into  a  strong  frame,  which  may  bo 
moved  for  a  distance  of  1")  feet  towords  the  head  of  the  plane,  by  means 
of  a  weight  attached  to  a  chain,  and  hanging  in  a  well,  'I'liere  is  anothi^r 
horizontal  sheave  40  feet  from  the  foot  of  the  plane,  on  the  level,  which 
ii  also  fitted  into  a  strong  framo  moveable  50  feet,  by  means  of  a  double 
pully-block,  rope,  and  windlass.  The  rnpc  is  endless,  and  is  supported  by 
(east  ir»n?)  sheaves  18  inches  (in)  diameter,  with  hardened  steel  axles, 
placed  24  feet  apart.  It  passes  around  the  horizontal  sheave  nt  the  foot 
of  the  plane,  up  the  centre  of  one  track  until  it  meets  the  vertical  sheave 
above  the  head  (ofthephtne,)  parses  half  round  it;  and  returning  towards 
tho  head  of  the  plane,  meets  the  horizontal  sheave,  passes  half  round  it, 
returns  to  tho  second  vertical  sheave,  passes  hall  round  it,  and  down  the 
other  track  of  the  rail-way  Tite  moveable  sheave  of  the  head,  has  tho 
effect  of  drawing  the  rope  tightly  into  the  grooves  of  tho  working  sheaves, 
obviating  the  danger  of  slipping,  and  equalizing  the  strain,  that  at  the 
foot  will  pcrmiuhe  slacknoi^s  of  thero()o  tobe  takenup  as  it  stretches  by 
use,  without  tlie  necessity  of  cutting  and  splicing  it. 

'•  The  steam-engine  which  drivest'ie  above  machinery  is  coupled  to  the 
ehari  of  one  of  the  vertical  sheaves.  It.  is  n  dotible  cylinder,  high  pres- 
sure, slide  v.-dve,  horizontiil  engine,  wiihout  a  fly  whoel,  and  drives  the 
working  8huf\  directly  without  the  intervention  of  geering.    At  six  of  the 

R lanes  the  engines  arc  of  35  horse  power,  and  at  the  remaining  four  of  30 
orse  power.  When  the  number  of  strokes  of  the  mgine  is  1 4  per  minute, 
the  velocity  of  the  rope  is  about  four  miles  an  hour.  The  form  of  the  en- 
gine, although  somewhat  more  expensive  thim  the  comnson  one,  is  recom- 
mended by  its  greater  safety.  Being  under  more  perfect  command  than 
a  single  cylinder  engine  with  o  fly-wheel,  it  may  be  started,  or,  in  case  of 
accident,  be  stopped  with  great  facility.  When  the  descending  load  ex- 
ceeds tiie  ascending,  the  hydraulic  regulator  is  thrown  into  goer.  This  is 
a  horizontal  cyliiidor  filled  with  water,  14  inches  (in)  diameter,  made  of 
cast  iron,  and  having  a  piston,  piston-rnd,  slides,  pitman,  Slc.  similar  to  a 
steam-engine  cylinder.  It  has  a  side-pipe  connecting  tho  ends,  in  wliich 
is  placed  a  valve,  worked  by  an  elevating  screw  similar  to  that  of  a  com- 
mon throttle  valve.  A  spur-wheel  geering  with  one  on  the  shaft  of  one 
ol  tho  vertical  sheaves,  works  a  pitman,  which  drives  the  piston  backwards 
and  forwards  through  tlie  cylinder.  At  each  half  stroke  of  tho  piston,  the 
whole  of  tlie  water  iu  the  cylinder  is  forced  through  the  orifice  formed  by 
the  valve  in  the  side  pipe,  and  as  this  may  be  regulated  by  hand,  any  de- 
cree Qf  retardation  required  may  be  obtained. 


'WheeU, 


t  Imaginary. 


'  \ 


Schuylkill  Coal  Region. 


Schuylkill  Coal  Regioii. 

The  head  waters  oi  tlic  River  Schuylkill  arc  situated  in  tho 
lijhest  cohI  region  in  the  United  Slutes.  ,  :  .     . 

Pcunsvlvaniu  is  !ii:y[hly  favored  in  the  Rhundance  of  her 
coal  and  iron,  more  valuable  to  her  than  diumonda  or  pcarla, 
fcilvor  or  gold. 

Tho  annual  consumption  is  more  than  800,000  tons,  and 
rapidly  increasinm-.very  suoccssivo  year.  The  average  price 
III  Ihe  mines  is  $4  a  ton,  amounting  to  over  ^3,000,000  to  ihe 
State  for  tliis  nriicle  of  export  alone,  for  which  the  neighbor- 
ing States  will  for  ever  be  tributary  to  her,  and  whon  the 
consumption  increases  as  it  %viU  in  20  years  to  3,000,000 of 
tons  per  annum:  it  presents  the  most  dazzling  vision  of  pros- 
perity and  wealth  to  the  zeal  and  industry  of  this  nation. 
The  collieries  of  England  are  said  to  produce  annually 
28,000,000  of  tons,  and  give  employment  to  many  thousands 
of  laborers  and  seamen,  and  is  tho  principal  relMuice  of  her 
navy  as  a  nursery  for  seamen,  and  such  also  will  >e  the  effect 
here.     There  are  three  great  coal  basins  in  Pennsylvania. 

First,  comprising  the  Lehigh,  Sw-atara,  Schuylkill,  and 
Little  Schuylkdl,  being  70  miles  long,  and  ranging  north  7'2^ 
cast;  one  mile  wide  at  the  Lehigh,  five  at  the  west  branch  of 
the  Schuylkill,  and  branching  off  into  two  points,  one  between 
the  Second  and  Peter's  Mounlaius,  and  the  other  in  Lykin's 
Valley. 

Second,  the  Shamokin,  IVlahony,  or  Beaver  Meadow  coal 
region,  six  to  eight  miles  north  of  the  first,  and  likewise  ex- 
tending from  the  Susquehannah  to  the  Lehigh,  and  rang- 
ing in  a  similar  way:  the  veins  are  very  large  and  position 
nearly  horizontal. 

Third,  the  Siisq'ielmnnah,  Wilkesbarre,  and  Lackawanna 
region,  extending  from  the  head  waters  of  the  latter,  down 
the  Susquehannah  some  miles  below  Wilkesbarre:  the  beds 

"The  westerii  approrich  to  LewiHton  is  remarkably  interesting;  the 
landscape  possessing  every  beautiful  natural  fcaturo  tlialcan  be  furnished 
by  tiic  various  combinations  of  mountain,  valley,  river,  iiill,  and  wood, 
both  wild  and  cultivated.  PHssing  Duncan's  Island  and  Icavinj;  the  valley 
of  the  Juninta,  vvc  glide  into  the  broad  bosom  of  tho  noble  Susquehannah, 
and  entorinp  the  canal  ou  its  eastern  side,  arrive  at  Hurritburgh,  ut  WiU 
■on's  excellent  hotel. 

/./■;-:■::■    33 


L,>'       r--* 


\t' 


..   , 


i 


i  'M 


88G 


SchuylHU  Coal  Region. 


are  nearly  horizontal,  and  the  basin  from  five  to  seven  miles 
wide  and  80  miles  in  length. 

On  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  first  basin  are  the  Mauch 
Chunk  or  Lehigh  coal  mine&,  and  fiv^  miles  west  is  the  large 
quarry  of  the  Little  Schuylkill  at  Tamaqua,  and  four  miles 
west  of  the  latter  the  Tuscarora  mines,  which  are  the  first 
in  the  Schuylkill  region,  extending  fiom  this  20  miles  west, 
andoccupy:ng  the  broadest  and  best  part  of  the  basin,  that 
includes  every  variety  of  anthracite  cofii,  and  most  accessible 
to  the  great  markets.  West  c''  this  is  the  Swatara  or  Pine 
Grove  region. 

The  basins  are  composed  of  alternate  strata  of  rock  and 
coai  at  irregular  distances.  Tunnels  have  been  made  in  vari- 
ous parts,  and  one  of  half  a  mile  in  length.  From  the  uni> 
formity  of  the  coal  ranges,  whenever  a  mine  of  a  superior 
quality  of  coal  i3  discovered,  it  can  easily  be  traced  to  a  con- 
siderablo  distance,  and  the  *'  Spohn  "  and  "Lewis  "  veins 
have  been  identified  for  10  miles  or  more,  although  there  are 
some  dislocations  and  distortions  that  evince  a  strong  up. 
heaving  force,  so  that  the  strata  is  seen  occasionally,  verti' 
cal,  or  in  olher  positions.  The  coal  is  divided  into  three 
classes  ;  that  which  burns  freely  and  has  a  residuum  of  red 
ashes,  another  harder  and  more  difficult  to  ignite,  leaving 
gray  ashes,  and  the  third  still  harder  and  more  difficult  of 
ignition,  leaving  white  ashes. 

The  ScHuv'.kiil  mines  have  the  advantage  of  ready  access 
to  the  beds  of  coal  by  rail-roads,  without  the  application  of 
stationary  engines,  or  self-acting  planes,  that  are  much  more 
expensive  than  other  power  applied  on  a  properly  graded 
rail-road. 

The  Schuylkill  Canal  commences  opposite  the  Fair  Mount 
water-works  near  Philadelphia,  and  is  continued  on  the  west 
side  of  the  river;  has  30  dams,  by  which  is  produced  a  slack 
water  navigation  of  45  miles;  125  locks,  80  feet  long  by  17 
in  widih,  of  which  28  are  t,uard-locks,  17  arched  aqneducis, 
a  tunnel  of  450  feet  in  leiigth,  cut  through  and  under  solid 
rock,  anrl  65  loll  and  gate-houses;  the  dams*  are  from  three 
to  27  feet  in  height.  Cost  $2,336,380.  Length  lOS  miles; 
breadth  at  the  surface  36  feet,  and  24  at  bottom,  xnd  four 
feet  deep ;  lockage  620  feet ;  it  extends  to  Reading,  52  miles 
from  Philadelphia,  (where  the  Union  Canal  comes  in  from 
the  west,  and  extends  to  the  Susquehannah,)  (see  index)  and 
from  Reading  56  miles  to  Mount  Carbon,  and  is  intersected 


Port  Clinton — Port  Carbon. 


387 


by  rail-roads  connected  with  the  most  important  collieries  as 
follows,  viz. 

First,  at  Port  Clinton,  mouth  of  the  Little  Schuylkill,  87 
miles  from  Philadelphia,  comes  in  the  road  of  the  Littlo 
Schiiyikiil  RaiUroaii  and  Coal  Company,  who  have  laid 
out  thiatown  and  establislied  extensive  landing's  there  for  the 
shipment  of  their  coal,  and  have  made  a  well  graded  rail-road 
of  22  miles  in  exteni  ending  at  Tamaqiia.  Locomotive  steam- 
engines  are  used  on  the  whole  line;  34,121  tons  were  ship- 
ped by  them  m  1834. 

Second,  next  is  Schuylkill  Hnven,  100  miles  from  Phila- 
delphia, a  place  of  deposit  and  shipment  for  the  collieries  of 
the  west,  and  the  west- west  branches  of  the  Schuylkill  River. 
The  Mine  Hill  and  Schuylkill  Haven  Rail-road  Company  have 
a  branch  leading  from  this  to  the  Broad  Mountain,  about  11 
miles  in  length,  following  the  course  of  the  west  branch,  and  a 
branch  of  about  three  miles  in  len;E!ih,  up  the  west- west  branch. 
The  main  road  penetrates  the  coal  region  about  six  miles  froip 
Schuylkill  Haven,  and  intrrsects  the  (Strata  at  right  angles  ; 
and  there  are  several  important  branches,  the  property  of  in- 
dividuals, the  whole  calculated  for  horse  power,  but  admit- 
ting steam  if  required.  41,529  tons  of  coal  were  shipped  in 
1834. 

Third,  Mount  Carbon  and  Pottsville  Landings  are  106  miles 
from  Philadelphia,  and  situated  on  the  ei\ge»  of  i he  coal  basin, 
in  the  gap  of  tiie  Sharp  Mountain.  The '' Mount  Carbon  and 
Norwegian"  Rail-road  extends  from  this  point  until  connect- 
ed with  the  Pottsville  and  Danville  Rail  road,  at  the  foot  of 
their  inclined  plane  on  the  east  branch  of  the  Norwegian 
Creek,  and  a  branch  of  their  road  is  also  carried  for  several 
miles  up  the  west  branch  of  the  same  creek,  s'^ing  access  to 
the  most  celebrated  veins  of  the  red  ash  coal.  Horse-power 
is  used,  but  steam  can  be.    88,117  tons  shipped  in  1834. 

Fourth,  Port  Carbon,  108  miles  from  Philadelphia,  at  the 
junction  of  Mill  Creek  with  the  Schuylkill  River.  Mill  Creek 
has  formed  a  deep  ravire  across  the  roal  reghn  in  a  tliroct 
line,  and  thus  yields  easy  access  to  the  veins  in  the  basin. 
Up  this  stream  the  Mill  Creek  Rail  road  extends  from  the 
canal  about  four  miles,  to  the  foot  of  the  inclined  plane  of  the 
Pottsville  and  Danville  Rail-road,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
£road  Mountain;  with  it  arc  connected  collier'es  on  the  most 
celebrated  veins  of  the  region,  furnishing  every  variety  of 
coul,  such  ai  tho  "  Pott  and  Bannun,"  "  Diamond/'  "  Peach 


,■<: 


388 


Schuyjkill  River. 


Mountain," '*Spohn,"  '•  Lewis,"  Gate,  <lir.  Uorecpowrr  ia 
used,  but  Rtearn  can  be.  60,475  tons  shipped  in  1834  from 
Port  Carbon. 

The  Schuylkill  River  takes  its  rise  12  miles  from  Port  Car- 
bon,  and  rims  alone;  the  eonih  side  of  Sharp  Moiintain,  par- 
allel with  the  coal  strata,  and  presenting  the  most  desirable 
prade  for  a  rail-road.  The  Schuylkill  Valley  Navig:afion  and 
Rail-road  Company  l^'^ve  constructed  a  rail-road,  10  miles  in 
extent,  to  Tuscarora.  Several  streams  that  take  their  rise  at 
Iho  north,  at  convenient  dislanres,  inteioect  the  Schuylkill  in 
this  valley,  and  cut  the  coal  strata  at  right  angles,  thus  giv- 
ing  great  facilities  for  mining  the  coal,  and  for  roads  of  a  pru< 
per  grade.  Numerous  lateral  roads,  the  property  of  individu* 
ais,  are  by  this  means  connected  with  the  Schuylkill  Vailcy 
Rail  /oad,  and  the  mines  on  most  of  the  approved  veins. 

In  visiting  the  various  ramiBcations  of  these  rail-roads, 
near  the  head  waters  of  the  Schuylkill  River  and  the  canal, 
we  see  Fort  Clinton,  Orwigsburg,  Schuylkill  Haven,  Mount 
Carbon,  Pottsville,  Cresgona,  VVetheull,  Port  Carbon,  New 
Philadelphia,  Tuscarora,  Tamaqua,  Edgevvorth,  Middleporf, 
Patterson,  IVIinersville,  New  Castle,  St.  Clair,  Loulsbiirc, 
Greenfield,  M'Keensburg,  and  from  Tamaqua  it  is  but  12  or 
15  miles  to  iNlauch  Chunk  village,  and  the  mine  only  six. 
No  where  in  the  United  States  can  such  a  busy  scene  of 
mining  operations  be  seen  in  such  a  concentrated  and  advan- 
tageous manner. 

To  reach  Port  Clinton  from  Philadelphia  the  boats  have  to 
pass  75  locks. 

To  reach  Schuylkill  Haven,  25  locks,  .         .         100 

"      "     Mount  Carbon  and  Pottsville  Landing,  45  120 
"       "      Port  Carbon,  4  mor.^,  .         .         .         1-24 

A  tunnel  and  rail-road  of  four  and  a  half  miles  from  Tusca- 
rora  to  the  mouth  of  Cold  Run  Crock,  that  can  be  made  for 
S50,000  far  a  single  track,  will  much  shorten  this  distance  to 
Phdadelphia,  and  save  the  circuit  via  Paterson,  Middleport, 
New  Phdudelphia,  Port  Carbon,  Pottsville,  JMount  Carbon, 
and  Schuylkill  Haven. 

Three  miles  irom  Potts*villo  or  Town  is  the  celebratd 
Klingleberg,  or  Chiming  Rocks ;  l>y  striking  on  the  stones 
various  sounds  are  heurd  equal  to  a  Hue  chime  of  bells.  There 
is  n  cave  near  also  worthy  of  attention 

The  Vaucliise  Mineral  Springs  are  a  mile  from  Lehighton, 
in  a  re  mantle  spot,  and  here  was  formerly  the  ruins  of  an 


Easton,  Mauch  Chunk,  and  Lehigh. 


989 


Indian  sweating-house.  The  springs  are  chalybeate  and  verr 
cold.  A  mile  and  a  half  from  the  sprinjis  on  Weiss'  farm  is  a 
well  du^  by  Dr.  Franklin,  when  stationed  at  this  post  in 
1756.  The  war  path  over  the  Mauch  Chunk  Mountain  is 
preserved ;  minerals,  shells,  and  other  objects  of  scientific 
research  are  in  abundance,  and  the  neighboring  streams  and 
lakes  abound  in  trout  and  other  fish. 


.*■-> 


y.  .»  >i' 


•j.-S  ,•■ 


Easton,  Itlaucli  Chunk,  and  L.ehigh. 

Easton^  at  the  confluence  of  the  Lehigh  and  Delaware  Ri- 
vers, is  an  ancient  and  respectable  town,  wi'h  u  population  of 
about  3,000.  It  is  built  mostly  of  stone  and  brirk,  and  has 
a  substantial  and  comfortable  appearance.  The  Dela> 
ware  hero,  with  its  bold  and  precipitous  banks,  and  the 
picturesque  Lehigh  and  its  attendant  canal  and  verdant 
slopes,  are  the  principal  features  of  the  landscape  as  viewed 
from  the  surrounding  heights.  A  roofed  wooden  bridge  leads 
over  the  Delaware,  resting  on  two  slone  piers,  and  is  about 
800  feel  in  length.  Ove»- 1  he  Lehijjh  soot  h  of  Ension,  is  also  a 
handsome  chain  bri<lgp,  ubout  600  feel  in  length,  botli  bridjo^es 
having  separate  pj'ssagcs  for  foot  passengers  and  carriages, 

Easton  is  72  miles  from  N«w-York,  and  62  fron*  Philadel- 
phia. Passengers  can  from  the  former  city  proceed  through 
New  Jersey  via  Newark,  Morristovvn,  and  hoo'ey  Moun- 
tain, and  call  at  the  mineral  springs  ihert ,  d  ihencp  to 
Easton  ;  or  by  steam-boat  to  New  Brunswick  '15  m\\ef  and 
ihence  by  stage,  and  arrive  the  same  day  by  sundo^vn  at 
Easton. 

From  Easton,  if  time  permits,  there  are  two  remarkable 
spots  which  the  geologist  or  the  admirers  of  the  wild  scenes 
of  nature  can  visit  with  instruction  and  delight ;  these  are 
the  Delaware  Water  Gap,  and  the  Wind  Gap;  the  former  is 
about  25  miles  to  the  north-enst,  and  the  latter  12  miles  north- 
west from  E^aston,  and  are  wi<le  rents  in  the  «hain  of  tho 
Blue  Ridge,  evidently  made  by  some  great  convulsion  of  na- 
ture, an«l  presenting  features  of  rude  grandeur  and  sublimity. 
The  latter  gap  leads  over  «heP<»kono  Mountain,  ond  through 
the  grouse  region  so  much  frequented  by  sportsmen,  passes 
near  tho  upper  falls  of  the  Lehiuh,  and  thenco  on  to  Wiikes- 
barreand  the  Sufquehannnh  valley. 

Bethlehem  is  a  Moravian  town,  situated  about   12  miles 


I     ih 


390 


BethleJtem — Nazareth. 


8outh>west  from  Easton  on  the  Lehigh  River  and  Cnnal,  and 
is  truly  a  charming  spot,  and  diatinguished  for  its  appearance 
of  neatness,  comfort,  good  order,  Jind  industry ;  and  (he  scene- 
ry, as  wo  descend  towards  the  river,  winding  among  lovely 
hills  and  meadows,  paiks,  forests,  and  lawnf,  is  of  the  tir»t 
order  of  rural  heauly. 

The  Female  Seminary  in  this  place  is  a  conspici  lus  ob> 
eel,  and  it  is  one  of  the  attractions  to  strangers  and  to  pa- 
rents from  all  parts  of  the  United  States. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Bethlehem  the  region  is  of  the  limestone 
formation,  and  the  inhabitants  mostly  the  descendants  of 
German  emigrants  from  Wirtemherg,  who  still  retain  their 
language,  hut  not  in  its  native  pinify.  They  have  their  news- 
papers and-  almanacs  printed  in  the  same  language.  The 
Manokisey  Creek  bounds  the  village  on  the  west,  and  empties 
into  the  Lehigh  ;  there  is  a  bridge  over  each  stream  ;  the 
high  and  wooded  elevations  opposite  the  town  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Lehigh  River,  the  fine  state  of  cultivation  that 
prevails  near  this  settlement,  the  luxury  of  wide  and  sha- 
ded  walks  neatly  paved  with  brick,  and  the  pleasant  pro- 
menades  in  every  direction,  combine  to  make  an  agreea- 
ble impression  on  the  visiter.  There  is  no  community  of 
goods  here  as  in  some  o'lier  German  places  in  Pennsylvania 
and  Ohio.  The  musical  genius  of  the  German  nation  is  here 
displayed  in  weekly  concerts,  and  in  their  public  worship  on 
the  Sabbath,  in  the  most  attractive  manner.  There  are  800 
inhabitants. 

Nazareth,  six  miles  to  the  north,  is  another  town  of  500  in- 
habitants, belonging  to  the  same  society,  and  has  a  large 
school  for  boys.  The  road  to  it  passes  through  a  well  culti- 
vated district,  evincing  the  wealth  and  ease  of  the  proprie- 
tors ;  that  of  Mr.  Schlahach,  who  came  over  as  a  redemption- 
er,  Is  especially  worthy  of  notice 

The  road  up  to  MaucU  Chunk  passes  throush  Kreidersville, 
Cherryville,  Berlinsville,  over  n  most  beautiful  country,  pro- 
ducing fine  crops  of  wheat  and  grass  ;  the  inhabitants  being 
Germans,  and  here  as  elsewhere  thriving  and  industrious. 
The  scenery  increases  in  interest  as  you  approach  the  Blue 
Ridge,  which  is  seen  rising  before  you  like  a  barrier,  and 
stretching  for  many  milei  in  a  northeast  and  south-west  di- 
rection, at  right  angles  to  your  course,  an«'  thickly  wooded, 
with  a  very  aieep  appearance,  and  become-,  still  more  beau- 
tiful as  you  approach  and  enter  the  gap,  l.v  the  side  of  the 


Lehigh  and  Mauch  Chunk, 


391 


river  nnd  canal,  with  the  cleft  mountain  rising  1,000  feet, 
»nd  presenting  on  either  side  a  bold  projection  of  rocks 
riHing  very  al»riiptly,  and  forming  an  imposing-  portal  to  tho 
Ptibsequent  scenes.  Soon  after  passing  Lehighton^  we  enter 
a  long  circuitous  gorge  that  near  Mauch  Chunk  narrows  and 
diminishes  in  width,  and  barely  leaves  room  for  the  river  and 
canal,  and  for  a  road  partly  cut  out  of  the  mountain. 

[n  this  wild  gorge  the  traveler  will  find  an  excellent  hotel, 
that  in  the  rear  is  overhung  by  the  mountain,  while  near  by 
in  front  is  the  rapid  Lehigh,  and  one  of  the  numerous  dams 
for  feeding  the  canal,  that  extends  from  its  head  here  to  Eas- 
ton,  and  along  the  right  bank  of  the  Delaivare  to  Bristol,  18 
miles  above  Philadelphia;  total  60  miles,  being  the  channel 
by  which  the  coal  of  trie  Lehigh  reaches  the  tide  water  to  the 
Delaware. 

Tlie  canal  along  the  Lehigh  is  a  creditable  work.  The  Links 
are  firm  and  lined  chiefly  with  stone  •,  locks  100  feet  long  and 
22  feet  wide,  of  hewn  stone  laid  in  hydraulic  cement,  and 
lined  with  plunk  ;  tho  canal  is  60  feet  wide  at  top,  45  at  bot- 
tom, and  five  feet  deep  ;  364  of  ascent  fnim  Easton ;  54  locks 
:md  nine  dams.  Total  distance  from  the  mines  to  Philadel- 
phia, 124  miles. 

The  principal  object  worthy  of  the  examination  and  enjoy- 
ment of  the  traveler,  is  the  vast  depopit  of  coal  in  this  vicini- 
ty, and  the  agreeable  and  easy  method  of  reachmg  the  spot 
by  a  mountain  excursion  of  nine  miles  on  a  rail  road,  that 
commences  near  the  hotel  by  a  very  steep  ascent  of  215  feet, 
in  an  inclined  plane  of  700  feet.  This  part  is  only  intended 
for  the  descent  of  loaded  coal  wagons  and  the  simu!taneon< 
ascent  of  empty  ones,  and  is  managed  in  the  usual  manner 
of  inclined  planes  before  described  on  the  Columbia  Rail-road, 
(see  Index.)  From  the  t>ummit  of  Ibis  short  plane  commen- 
ces the  main  rail-way  to  the  mines  ofnine  miles,  besides  se- 
veral miles  of  side  railing  or  lateral  road.  This  main  road  is 
graded  to  100  feet  of  ascent  per  mile,  and  is  of  timbor,  shod 
with  flat  bar  iron  on  the  upper  and  inner  edge,  and  cost  only 
$3,^00  per  mile. 

Here  the  traveler  enters  the  car  «h«t  is  drawn  by  horses, 
and  for  one  hour,  which  is  the  time  taken  to  ascend,  can  en- 
joy the  scene  without  tliC  least  fatigue  or  dancer,  till  he  ar- 
rives at  the  summit,  and  by  walking  a  short  distarice  looks 
down  into  the  immense  excavation,  where  the  minors  are 
busily  at  work  loosening  the  coal  in  heavy  masses,  the  whole 


\         4 

1 

t  Ik 


m 

m\ 


'i. 


irtii 


I  ilili 


392 


Maueh  Chunk  Coal  Mines. 


hnving  the  appearance  of  an  open  stone  quarry  exposed  to 
the  canopy  of  heaven  ;  the  guperincurnbent  earth  and  rocks 
having  been  removed  in  the  first  stages,  and  pitched  into  a 
ravine  at  hand. 

The  coal  mine  occupies  an  area  of  more  than  eight  acres, 
and  the  excavation  is  in  the  form  of  platforms  or  steps  of  a 
colossal  size,  forming  an  angular  area,  with  roads  leading 
down  to  the  interior.  The  eeams  or  beds  of  coal  are  of  great 
thickness,  varying  from  12  to  25,  35,  and  54  feet,  and  more, 
and  the  perpendicular  sections  cut  through  display  the  con* 
tortious  and  irregularities  to  the  best  advantage ;  rails  are 
laid  in  the  mine  for  conveying  the  coal  to  the  main  rail-way, 
and  to  the  chute  at  the  end,  where  it  is  precipitated  or  dump- 
ed down  the  last  slope  into  the  coal  barges  or  canal-boats ; 
146,000  tons  were  sent  from  this  rjiine  in  1836 ;  and  upon  the 
Schuylkill,  436,000  tons;  and  of  the  Lackawanna,  102,000 
tons;' in  all,  684,000  tons  of  anthracite  coal;  in  1835  the 
amount  was  557,000  tone. 

The  coal  rubbish  is  conveyed  in  cars  on  a  rail-way  that  ex- 
tends longUadinally  along  the  mountain  slope,  and  by  seve- 
ral branches  at  right  angles,  reaching  over  the  vale;  the  coal 
at  the  terminations  is  ejected  to  a  great  depth  below,  and  has 
already  accumulated  in  several  black  mounds. 

An  amusing  feature  of  the  rail-way  operations  is  presented 
in  witnessing  the  descent  of  the  mules,  that  are  taken  down 
in  pens  to  the  end  of  the  rail-way,  to  drag  the  empty  cars 
up  the  nine-mile  slope,  and  their  imperturbable  gravity 
while  munching  their  provender  and  enjoying  their  rapid 
flight,  that  constant  and  daily  habit  has  taught  them  is  so 
much  easier  than  to  walk  the  distance,  and  thai  no  coaxing 
or  whipping  could  force  them  to  attempt,  that  even  Cruik- 
shank  him^ielf  could  not  have  a  better  subject  for  his  satiri* 
cal  touches.  „   ■    ;^    r.      a         'js^    .- 

A  visit  to  the  coal  hasm  group  of  mountains  tn  Pennsyl- 
vania is  now  an  established  summer  route,  uniting  fine  and 
varied  scenery  and  the  benefit  «>f  puro  air  wiih  amusement 
of  the  most  exhilaralin?  description.  The  hotel  offers  every 
comfort  and  accommodation  to  the  traveler,  and  conveyance 
may  readily  be  procured  for  Pottsville,  Wiikesbarre,  and  other 
places. 


Valley  of  Wyoming  and  Lackawanna. 


''i"**.     w. 


393 


Talley  of  IVyoming:  and  Liackawanna. 

The  anthracite  region  of  the  Sus<]nehanna  is  GO  or  70  miles 
long,  and  about  five  broad;  leaving  out  of  view  its  irregu- 
larities, tliis  valley  may  be  regarded  as  the  lower  half  of  a 
vast  flattened  tube  lying  horizontally,  within  which  are  laid 
n  series  of  sections  of  smaller  tubes  whose  sic'es  continually 
diminish  :n  height,  and  end  with  the  omission  of  those  toword 
the  centre;  the  bottom  of  these  sections  represents  the  strata 
in  the  lower  parts  of  the  valley,  and  the  sides  those  of  the 
slopes  of  the  hills  and  mountains.  The  Lackawanna  Creek 
and  Susquehannah  Uiver  flow  through  a  natural  canal, 
scooped  out  longitudinally  in  the  lower  part  of  the  upper 
strata,  winding  irregularly  in  a  line  nearly  but  not  exactly 
central,  and  tending  most  towards  the  side  which  represents 
the  western  barrier  of  mountains. 

The  figure  of  an  inverted  arch  gives  an  ideal  section  of 
the  strata,  as  regards  their  position  and  arrangement,  with- 
out any  pretension  to  accuracy  in  the  proportions  or  num- 
ber of  strata;  and  the  v.Jcasional  irregularitio'S  as  well  as  the 
steep  ascent  up  the  mountains  to  the  extreme  right  and  left 
are  intentionally  omitted.  The  strata  are  those  of  ihe  an- 
thracite coal  formation  ;  only  throe  wifi  be  noticed.  At  the  top 
a  rock  composed  of  Ihe  ruins  or  friigmenls  of  other  rocks, 
the  parts  and  cements  of  which  arc  principally  siliceous^  the 
fragments  of  various  sizes  from  thatofpebbles  to  that  of  sand, 
forming  s.and-stone  or  pudding-stone,  or  grnuwacke,  noxt 
argillaceous  slate,  with  vegetable  impressions;  then  anthra* 
cite  coal  between  roof  and  pavement:  the  direction  of  the 
strata  is  near  north  east  an<l  south-west;  the  dip  is  towards 
the  river,  on  the  eastern  side  it  declines  to  west,  and  on  the 
west  towards  the  east. 

The  strata  of  particular  mines,  however,  generally  copy 
the  form  of  the  upper  surface  over  them,  either  curved  or  ir- 
regular, saddle-shaped,  mantle, or  dome-  there  are  irregulari- 
ties and  exceptions  arising  fcora  convulsions  and  strange  con- 
tortions*, the  coal-beds  vary  in  thickness  from  one  to 27  feet; 
the  lateral  extent  of  the  beds  is  immense,  they  break  out  in 
the  precipices  and  hills,  and  form  in  some  places  the  pave-^ 
mpnts  of  thoriver,  and  appear  in  the  sides  and  channels  of 
moat  every  stream  from  the  mountains  ;  they  blacken  the  soil 
in  places,  and  wells  are  sunk  iu  the  coal.    The  supply  is  ia* 


''  m^ 


X'l 


''?•>•»»«», 


394 


Carbondate- 


cxhnuslible,  and  more  important  to  the  country  than  mines  of 
gold  and  silver.     The  Pennsylvania  Canal  \9  at  hand  to  con- 
duct to  Baltimore  or  Philadelphia,  or  to  New-York,  hy  the 
Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  and  Rail-road. 

The  valley  of  Wyoming  is  rich  in  soil  and  the  best  agricul- 
tural proJuctions,andis  unrivalled  in  fertility  and  beauty,  full 
of  interesting  historical  association,  and  the  descendants  of  a 
high  minded  race  of  men;  it  will  ever  be  one  of  the  most  at- 
tractive regions  to  every  intelligent  and  patriotic  Am(>rican. 

Its  form  is  that  of  a  long  oval  or  ellipse ;  the  first  glance  of 
a  strxngcr  from  the  eastern  rocky  summit  is  rich,  beautiful, 
varied,  and  grand  ;  few  landscapes  can  vie  with  it;  several 
villages  or  clusters  of  houses  appear.  VVilUesbarre  is  a  well 
built,  rural  village,  and  has  2,500  or  more  inhabitants. 

Cnrburidnle  is  situated  on  the  Lackawanna,  a  creek  emp- 
tying into  the  Sui^cjuehannah  at  the  head  of  the  valley  of 
Wyoming. 

The  mine  is  situated  in  the  front  of  a  hill ;  it  is  quarried  in  a 
continuous  line  for  sixty  rods,  and  presents  a  front  of  ^ood 
Gonl  of  20  feet  in  thickness,  besides  several  feet  more  of  roof 
coal,  stained  and  shattered  by  time  and  the  weather.  Seve- 
ral steam<enginesdra>v  up  the  coal  in  wagons:,  on  a  rail-way 
from  the  mine  to  the  summit  level,  whence  it  descends  by 
another  rail-way  16  m'les  long,  to  the  canul  at  Honesdale, 
on  the  Lackawaxen,  and  along  that  stream  30  miles  to  the 
Delaware,  and  down  the  valley  on  the  east  side  to  Carpenter 
Point ;  thence  It  turns  north-east  and  extends  to  the  Hudson 
at  Kingston. 

The  Lackawaxen  is  a  wild  mountain  stream  running 
through  Wayne  and  Pike  Counties  in  Pennsylvania,  and 
along  its  banks  the  canal  is  constructed  until  it  meets  and 
crosses  the  Delaware, 

The  summit  level  of  the  canal  is  only  60  feet  above  the 
Delawate  at  Port  Jarvis,  535  above  the  Hudson  at  Kingston ; 
the  distance  between  the  two  points  is  59  miles;  and  from 
Port  Jarvis  up  the  Delaware  to  the  Lnckawaxen,  and  up  tho 
latter  stream  to  Honesdale,  49  miles;  total  108  miles;  and 
including  the  rail-road  as  above,  124  miles.  The  New-York 
portion  of  the  canal  runs  along  the  foot  of  tlie  western  slope 
of  the  Shawangunk  range  of  mountains  between  the  Hudson 
and  the  Delaware,  in  Ulster  and  Sullivan  Counties,  and  up 
the  valley  of  the  River  Delaware  on  the  New-York  side. 
^  The  Delaware  and  Hudson  Caoal  is  32  feet  wide  and  four 


Lackawaxen  and  Delaware, 


395 


feet  deep;  ascent  and  descent  625  feet ;  62  locks;  coiitofthe 
can nl  $1,000,000;  commenced  July,  1825  ;  finished  October, 
1828.  An  elevation  of  800  feet  on  the  east  side  of  Monsic 
Mountain  is  overcome  by  five  inclined  planes,  ep^h  from 
2,000  to  3,000  feet  in  length.  In  drapgin^  the  coal  up  to  the 
summit  level  from  the  mines  on  the  west  side  of  the  mountain, 
accidents  have  occurred  formerly  from  the  breaking  of  the 
iron  chains  extending  from  the  coal  was^ons  to  the  fixed 
steam-engine  at  the  top  of  the  hill,  when  such  was  the  rapid- 
ity of  the  descent,  the  vehicle  could  only  be  seen  as  a  dim 
streak  darting  through  the  air;  this  is  now  remedied  by  the 
use  of  hemp  cables. 

Along  the  Lackawaxen  and  the  Delaware  the  canal  is  in 
several  places  supported  on  the  brink  of  the  river  by  massive 
stone  walls  from  15  to  40  feet  in  height,  the  rocks  having 
been  blasted  out  of  the  precipice  on  the  east,  and  thrown  into 
the  bed  of  llie  river  to  form  the  basis  of  the  canal,  which  thus 
for  many  miles  runs  side  by  side  with  the  heavy  tumultuous 
current  of  the  adjoining  river,  and  presenting  many  imposing 
views  of  the  rough  and  wild  scenes  of  nature,  in  strong  con- 
trast with  the  smooth  and  peaceful  surface  of  the  canal, 
along  which  we  glide  in  security,  although  in  such  near 
proximity  to  what  must  sometimes  be  a  source  of  apprehen- 
sion to  the  timid  or  nervous,  but  more  generally  causmg  a 
state  of  delightful  excitement.  To  the  tourist  in  search  of 
pleasure  or  the  picturesque,  this  excursion  in  summer  may 
be  entered  upon  at  either  extremity,  Carbondale  or  Kings- 
ton, and  the  coal  region  of  Mauch  Chunk  on  the  Lehigh,  or 
at  the  head  of  the  Schuylkill,  near  Pottsville  and  the  Union 
Canal,  taken  to  proceed  to  or  from  the  valley  of  Wyoming,  as 
before  described.  '' 

This  excursion  can  be  made  in  a  few  days  and  at  trifling 
expense,  either  from  New-York  or  Philadelphia;  in  the  for- 
mer case  proceeding  up  the  Hudson  and  debarking  at  the 
entrance  of  the  Rondoul  Kill  near  Kingston,  and  following 
up  the  Shawangunk  Valley,  or  in  the  latter  taking  the  Schuyl- 
kill Canal  or  the  rail-road  to  Rending  and  Port  Carbon,  and 
thence  to  Mauch  Chunk  or  Easlon,  or  down  the  Nescopeck 
Valley  to  the  Susquehannah,  as  may  bo  readily  seen  on  any 
good  map  of  the  States  of  New-York  and  Pennsylvania.- 

The  Mnrris  Canal  leads  from  Powles  Hook,  opposite  the 
cjjy  of  New-York,  through  Newark,  and  thence  in  a  north- 
ern direction  along  the  eastern  slope  of  Newark  hills  towards 


i}  11 


396 


Morri$  Canal,  New  Jersey. 


the  manufacturing  town  of  Pnterson,  which  it  overlookii  as 
it  wind:!  slowly  to  tho  westward  rou»d  an  elevation,  twice 
crossing  Lhc  Passaic  River  above  the  celebrated  fails  of  that 
name,  (which  niny  easily  be  visited  in  two  hours  from  New- 
York,  using  the  rail-roud  conveyance,)  thence  winding 
through  the  valleys  in  Morri*  and  VVarrcn  Counties,  and  re- 
ceiving a  feeder  on  the  summit  level  from  the  Hopatcong 
Lake,  900  feet  above  tide,  a  clear  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
it  descends  through  the  valley  of  the  Musconctcong  and  en- 
ters the  Delaware  River  opposite  Caston  in  Pennsylvania, 
and  the  mouth  of  the  Lehigh  River. 

The  transportation  of  the  coal  that  cotnosdown  the  Lchigli 
Canal  from  the  Mauch  Chunk  mines,  36  miles  north-west 
from  Easton  to  the  city  of  New- York,  and  the  east,  is  the  prin- 
cipal source  of  the  business  of  the  Morris  Canal,  and  in  time 
will  render  it  proHtable,  although  jt  is  connected  with  a  hank 
of  the  same  name,  having  an  office  in  the  ciiy  of  New-York, 
and  at  present  more  lucrative  than  the  canal  stock  to  the 
stockholder^^,  under  a  most  liberal  charter  from  the  State  of 
New  Jersey.  si,. 

This  canal  was  commenced  in  1S25.  It  is  116  miles  long, 
32  feet  wide  at  the  surface,  four  feet  deep,  rise  and  full  1,657 
feet,  of  which  223  are  overcome  by  24  locks,  and  the  remain- 
ing 1,434  by  23  inclined  planes  of  a  very  ingenious  construc- 
tion, combining  water-power  and  machinery  on  the  plan  of 
Professor  Renwick,  of  Columbia  College,  of  the  city  of  New- 
York;  there  are  also  four  guard-locks,  five  dams,  30  culvert?, 
12  aqueducts,  and  200  bridges  ;  cost  $2,000,000.    !• 

The  counties  adjoining  this  canal  arc  rich  in  iron  ore  and 
in  valuable  minerals,  especially  Sussex  County  in  thn  north- 
west part  of  the  State,  and  in  numerous  clear  and  beautiful 
lakes  and  mountain  streams,  abounding  with  trout  and  other 
fish,  and  the  woods  with  game,  hke  all  similar  regions  in  the 
United  States. 


Upper  Falls  of  tlie  Crenessee'in  IVenr-York. 

Sixty  miles  south  of  Lake  Ontario,  23  above  Moscow,  are 
remarkable  falls,  or  rather  three  falls  in  a  diyJance  of  three 
miles  ;  these  are  very  little  known  from  being  somewhat  out 
of  tho  range  of  fashionable  travel ;  they  each  differ  much  from 
the  other,  and  are  at  present  di£ScuIt  to  approach,  but  this  \% 


Scenery  of  the  Geneesee  RiMr. 


397 


easily  obviated.  The  three  falls  are  60,  60,  and  110  feet  high, 
Bad  are  grand  objects,  but  they  are  almost  forgotten  in  the 
feelings  oi  wonder,  and  even  of  fear,  with  which  the  sublime 
perpendicular  walls  of  the  river  inspire.  They  may  truly  be 
called  walls,  for  they  do  not,  like  the  beautiful  rocks  at  Tren- 
ton, recede  as  they  -approach  the  top,  but  are  for  a  great  dis- 
tance perfectly  upright  or  impending,  and  almost  as  regular 
for  a  great  part  of  three  miles  as  a  work  of  art,  and  rising 
from  200  to  600  feot ;  to  this  depth  the  river  seems  to  have 
worn  its  circuitous  passage  in  the  solid  rock,  in  turns  almost 
as  short,  and  bends  nearly  as  graceful,  as  if  winding  through 
the  softest  meadows. 

A  scene  of  more  savage  grandeur  and  loneliness  can  seldom 
be  witnessed  than  the  view  from  the  top  when  looking  into 
the  deep  gulf  from  one  of  the  highest  points,  to  the  very  edga 
of  which,  by  trusting  to  the  boughs  of  the  thick  shrubbery, 
you  can  approach  without  apparent  danger.  Gigantic  ever« 
greens  stand  upon  the  extreme  verge,  and  the^  seem  from 
their  height  to  have  held  their  places  on  this  brmk  for  ages. 

The  region  of  the  Genesee,  as  well  as  the  Niagara,  are  re- 
markable for  their  very  distinct  and  almost  horieontal  strati- 
fication. 

The  rocks,  consisting  principally  of  limestone,  sand-stone, 
and  slate,  although  greatly  indented  on  the  surface,  scooped 
into  deep  basins  and  valleys,  swollen  info  high  hilli,  and  pre- 
senting great  variety  of  outUne  in  the  sweeps  of  bold  and 
beautiful  curves,  are  generally  laid  down  with  the  regularity 
of  a  work  of  art,  and  remain  evidently  in  the  horizontal  po- 
sition into  which  they  first  subsided — the  observer  is  impress- 
ed by  the  grandeur  of  the  piles,  by  the  different  colors  of  the 
alternating  strata  of  rocks,  reposing  upon  each  other  in  per- 
fect order,  as  if  reared  by  the  mason's  art  and  power ;  by  the 
mild  beauty  of  the  trees,  shrubs,  and  verdure  on  their  sum- 
mits and  edges,  and  by  the  enormous  masses  which  time  has 
thrown  down  in  ruins  to  be  washed  by  the  ceaseless  wear  of 
a  river,  always  powerful,  and  at  times  swollen  to  an  over- 
whelming torrent. 

The  Asphaliic  or  slate  rock,  that  is  so  highly  charged  with 
bitumen  as  to  be  capable  of  combustion,  is  found  at  the  out- 
let of  Honeyoye  and  Canesus  Lakes,  and  on  the  C&naseraga 
branch  of  the  Genessee  River.  If,    i     i»-     • 


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398 


From  Philadelphia  to  Baltimore. 


t  t.i' 


;..-,  "S  I 


J  .^ 


Sauihern  JRoute  resutned  from  page  358^ 
From  Philadelphia  to  Baltimore. 

The  traveler  has  the  choice  of  several  routes  to  proceed  td 
the  South  from  Philadelphia: — 

First,  by  rail-road  via  Wilmington  and  Havre  de  Grace  ^ 
through  in  about  five  or  six  hours. 

Second,  by  steam-boat  to  New  Castle  ;  thence  by  raii*road 
for  16  miles,  ending  by  the  steam-boat  on  the  Chesapeake, 
dovirn  the  Bay  64  miles  to  Baltimore.  The  fare  by  each  line 
is  $4.  The  canal  from  the  Delaware  to  the  Chesapeake  ii 
entered  10  miles  below  Ne«v  Castle  at  Delaware  City ;  this  is 
frequented  by  schooners,  sloops,  or  steam-bqats,  as  herealter 
described.  .  ^     ,  .  .  .    ' 

Those  preferring  the  combined  route  by  river  and  rail-road 
will  proceed  to  Chesnut-street  wharf,  before  the  boat  leaves 

•  the  city  early  in  the  day,  at  seven  or  six  o'clock  ;.  or  at  nuon, 
on  the  arrival  of  passengers  by  the  eastern  routes,  at  twelve  to 
two  o'clock,  when  the  boat  glides  rapidly  past  the  southern 

,part,  or  river-front  of  the  city  and  suburbs  of  Philadelphia, 
The  most  prominent  building  to  attract  the  eye  of  a  stranger, 

•  ii  the  Ship-house  at  the  Navy  Yard,  where  some  of  the  no- 
blest and  best  ships  in  the  navy  of  the  United^  States  have 
been  constructed,  the  Delaware,  the  Pennsylvania,  and  oth- 

-  ers  ■,  from  thence,  passing  Gloucester  Point,  League  Island, 
■  and  the  termination  of  the  isthmus,  between  the  Schuylkill 
I  and  Delaware,  the  traveler  will  notice,  on  the  left  or  east 

-  bank,  the  site  of  the  revolutionary  fort  of  Red  Bank,  the  for- 
.  mer  scene  of  strife  and  bloodshed.  Some  miles  onward,  be 
.  will  pass,  on  the  west  bank,  the  Lazaretto  or  Quarantine 

buildings.    The  banks  of  the  Delaware  are  penerally  of  but 
moderate  elevation,  on  either  side  of  this  portion  of  the  river; 
.  the  aspect  tame  or  uninteresting  at  a  distance  -,  bui  the  land 
is  of  the  most  fertile  description,  the  lowlands  or  meadows 
:  protected  by  embankments  from  inundation.     Two  or  three 
^  hours  are  occupied  before  the  boat  arrives  at  New  Castle, 
i  where  the  land  route  across  the  State  of  Delaware  commen- 
ces.    Distant  views  of  Chester  and  Wilmington  are  had  in 
proceeding  thus  far,  the  former  in  15  miles  ;  the  latter  in  28 
miles    from    Philadelphia,  between    the  Brandy  wine  and 


New  Ca»ile^Che»apeake  and  Delaieare  Canal.       399 

ChristianA  Creeks,  one  mile  above  their  confluence,  two 
west  of  the  Delaware;  the  population  about  7,000;  its  eitua* 
tion  elevated  and  pleasant.  (See  rail-road  route  next  descri- 
bed.) " 

New  Castle  is  33  miles  from  Philadelphia;  it  was  settled 
by  the  Swedns  in  1627,  before  the  arrival  of  William  Penn. 
The  population  is  2,5<J0;  it  has  places  of  pijMic  worship  for 
Episcopalians,  Presbyterians,  Methodists,  also  a  court-house, 
jail,  and  an  academy.  Some  remains  of  its  antique  houses 
rnay  perhaps  yet  be  seen,  also  tombs  of  the  early  colonizers, 
that  had  a  contest  with  the  Dutch  for  sovereignly,  in  the  in- 
fancy of  the  colony,  1655,  when  the  latter  prevailed,  but  in 
1664,  were  themselves  subdued  by  the  English,  when  New 
AK)t>terdam  was  merged  in  New- York. 

The  New  Castle  and  Frenchtoion  Rail-road  is  now  part  of 
the  jp;reat  thoroughfare  between  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore; 
it  affords  a  safe,  rapid  means  of  communication  between  the 
Delaware  and  Chesapeake  Bays.  The  road  is  16^  miles  long, 
nearly  straight ;  (the  curves  only  adding  2,559  feet.)  The 
greatest  variation  from  a  level,  is  in  one  section  of  4,000  feet 
long,  that  has  a  slope  of  29  feet  to  the  mile;  in  others  it  is 
only  10  or  16  feet  to  the  mile.  The  amount  of  excavation 
v,MO  c 00,000,  and  of  embankment  420,000  cubic  yards. 
There  are  four  viaducts,  29  culverts,  all  of  stone.  It  was 
completed  in  1833.  Total  cost,  $400,000,  including  land, 
wharves,  cars,  engines,  &c. 

The  Chesapeake  and  Delaware  Canal  commences  10  miles 
below  the  rail-road,  at  a  place  called  Delaware  City,  oppo- 
site an  island  of  small  extent,  on  which  is  Fort  Delaware,  in 
ruins.  The  canal  extends  in  a  south-western  direction,  four 
miles  through  the  marshes  to  St.  George's;  it  soon  after  en- 
ters upon  the  Deep  Cut,  that  is  six  miles  long,  70  feet  in  the 
deepest  part,  with  an  arched  bridge  of  235  feet  span,  90  feet 
above  the  water,  thus  admitting  steam-boats,  schooners, 
sloops,  or  barges,  to  pass  beneath,  while  passengers  or  car- 
riages may  be  seen  at  a  giddy  height,  on  the  elevated  arch 
above.  Prom  this  to  Chesapeake  City,  at  the  western  ter- 
mination on  Back  Creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Elk,  is  four 
miles. 

This  canal  runs  three  quarters  of  its  distance  through  the 
State  of  Delaware,  the  rest  in  Maryland ;  it  is  60  feet  in 
breadth  at  the  surface,  10  feet  in  depth,  has  two  tide  and 
two  lift  locks,  100  feet  long,  22  feet  wide  in  the  clear.    The 


r 


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V 


4  <    »•■« 


♦ » 


9T, 


400 


Delaware  Breakwater. 


summit  level,  that  is  12  feet  above  tide,  is  supplied  by  a  re* 
servoir,  covering  an  extent  of  100  acres,  10  feet  deep.  It  was 
commenced  in  1824;  opened  for  navigation  in  1829;  it  cost 
$2,200,000,  and  is  in  a  ^reat  part  attributable  to  the  public 
spirit  of  the  citizens  of  Philadelphia.  It  is  one  of  the  moat 
useful  works  in  this  country,  and,  like  the  canal  between  the 
Raritan  and  Delaware,  it  saves  a  circuitous  and  sometimes 
dangerous,  exposed  soa  and  river  navigation  of  384  miles 
from  Philadelphia,  by  way  of  the  Delaware  and  Chesapealce, 
up  to  the  head  of  the  bay.  The  trade  carried  on  through 
the  canal  is  brisk  and  constantly  increasing. 

Great  obstacles  in  constructing  the  canal  were  encounter- 
ed in  the  outset,  in  the  deep  tide  marshes  of  St.  George's,  bj 
the  porous,  spongy  soil,  that  gave  way  under  the  pressure  of 
a  heavy  embankment,  that  sank  to  the  depth  of  40  or  50  feet; 
also  by  the  sliding  of  the  earth  into  the  canal  at  the  heavy 
steep  slopes  at  the  deep  cut,  before  it  was  rendered  secure 
by  turf  or  thatch.  The  piers  forming  the  harbor,  at  the  en- 
trance into  the  Delaware,  enclose  several  acres  of  surface; 
there  is  the  first  tide  lock,  also  one  of  the  moveable  bridges. 

The  Delaware  Breakwater  at  Lewiston,  near  Cape  Heolo- 
pen,  is  an  immense  work  of  national  undertaking,  (costing  a 
million  of  dollars,  and  yet  unfinished,)  that  has  long  been  re< 
quired,  for  the  protection  of  the  coasting  trade  from  the  north- 
east storms,  and  from  which  this  is  the  only  refuge  in  such 
cases  for  a  considerable  extent  of  coast. 

Steam-boats  in  the  summer  season  occasionally  visit  it,  as 
they  do  Cape  May  on  the  opposite  shore  of  the  bay,  and  in^ 
termediate  places  up,  such  as  Chester,  Wilmington,  New 
Castle,  and  the  cityy  at  the  entrance  of  the  Delaware  and 
Chesapeake  Canal. 

At  the  termination  of  the  New  Castle  and  Frenchtown 
Rail-road,  near  the  head  of  Elk,  (a  bhort  distance  below 
w^here  the  Philadelphia  and  Wilmington  Rail-road  extendi 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Susquehannah,)  passengers  take  the 
steam-boat  here  found  waiting  the  arrival  of  the  train,  and 
proceed  down  the  Elk,  13  miles  to  its  confluence  with  the 
Chesapeake  Bay  at  Turkey  Point,  where  the  bay  expands 
northward  towards  Havre  de  Grace,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
famous  Susquehannah;  here  the  glance  that  is  had  for  a  few 
miles  at  its  bold,  upland,  not  to  say  rocky  outlines  to  the 
north-west,  /eveals  sufficient  of  its  beauty  to  induce  the 
disposition  of  the  passing  traveler  to  behold  still  more  of  its 


ITT 


Philadelphia  mnd  Wilmington  Rail-road  Route.        401 

wild,  romantic  borders,  rendered  classical,  almost  immortal, 
by  the  genius  of  the  poet  Campbell,  or  the  bloody  feats  re- 
corded of  the  wily  Indian  warriors. 

Taking  the  course  down  the  broad  and  shallow  bay  to- 
wards Baltimore  or  Norfolk,  we  reach,  in  six  milcp,  Grove 
Point,  Poolers  Island  in  16,  Middle  Island  in  eight,  and  North 
Point  in  eight  miles,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Patapsco,  ex- 
tending towards  Baltimore ;  and  here  is  usually  encountered 
the  steam-boat  that  has  just  left  the  latter  city,  on  its  way  to 
Norfolk;  therefore  all  those  bound  southward  or  to  Rich- 
mond, or  theVtrginia  Springs,  can  embrace  (his  opportunity, 
and  have  their  trunks,  &c.  transferred  '.o  the  downward  boat, 
that  comes  along  side  for  that  purpose,  to  save  time  or  pre- 
vent travelers  taking  any  other  interior  route,  as  they  may 
perhaps  be  inclined  to  adopt,  if  they  proceed  to  the  city  of 
Baltimore  or  Washington.  After  passing  Sparrows  Point 
in  four  miles,  Fort  M'Henry  in  six  miles,  in  three  miles  the 
traveler  is  at  Baltimore. 

The  Philadelphia  and  Wilmington,  or  Upper  Rail-road 
route,  must  be  exclusively  resorted  to  when  the  navigation 
of  the  rivers  and  bays  are  obstructed  by  ice;  also  at  other 
times  by  those  desirous  of  avoiding  steam-boats,  or  wishing 
to  pass  through  the  interior  of  Delaware,  near  the  old  stage 
road;  by  a  diversified,  hilly  route,  that  has  sufficient  variety 
to  please.  Leaving  the  city  of  Philadelphia  by  the  usual  hours 
at  the  dep6t  in  Broad-street,  the  train  passes  through  the 
suburbs,  and  soon  reaches  the  Schuylkill  River,  crossing  it 
by  a  substantial  viaduct  or  floating  bridge  to  its  west  shore ; 
thence  proceeding  rapidly  in  a  south* west  directicn,  it  reach- 
es Darby  in  seven  miles,  thence  to  Chester  in  eight  miles. 
This  is  quite  an  ancient  place,  with  a  population  of  1,000,  also 
the  seat  of  the  first  legislature  after  the  arrival  of^  William 
Penn  ;  thence,  along  the  road  in  the  vicinity  of  the  shore  of 
the  Delaware,  by  an  embankment  over  the  meadows  for 
some  distance,  to  Marcus  Hook  five,  Wilmington  eight  miles, 
or  28  from  Philadelphia.  This  is  a  wealthy  city,  also  a  port 
of  entry,  owning  over  12,000  tons  of  shipping,  and  numer- 
ous flour  mills,  that  the  falls  of  the  Brandy  wine  furnish  with 
power,  also  for  100  manufactories  of  various  kinds,  cotton, 
wool,  paper,  powder,  iron- castings,  within  10  miles.  The 
upper  waters  of  this  useful  stream  are  crossed  on  the  roads 
from  Philadelphia  to  Lancaster,  (see  page  370.)  Here  is  a 
town  ball,  two  markets,  three  banks,  13  places  of  wqrship— 

34* 


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II 


^,  ..    ir-,.  (n.>; 


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I'l* 


402 


Christiana  Creek. 


three  each  for  EpiscopalianB,  Presbyterians,  and  Methodists, 
two  Friends,  one  Catholic,  one  Baptist.  Two  neat  bridges 
and  the  rail-road  viaduct  span  the  streams.  To  the  town 
is  14  feet  depth  of  water ;  to  the  mills  eight  feet.  The  coun- 
try ardund  or  adjacent  is  very  attractive,  and  the  springs  at 
Brandy  wine,  five  miles  off,  are  of  the  chalybeate  kind,  and  a 
popular  place  of  resort  in  the  warm  season,  with  ample,  spa- 
cious accommodations.  The  capacious  stone  hotel  at  the 
Chalybeate  Spring  is  460  feet  above  the  Delaware;  it  can 
accommodate  300  persons  ;  its  halls  and  chambers  are  large 
and  airy,  the  mammoth  dining-room  has  its  windows  from 
floor  to  ceiling,  open  on  both  sides,  cool  as  though  out  doors, 
(a  luxurious  fe^'urd  usually  overlooked ;)  its  reading  and  ball- 
room are  rendered  attractive  by  a  full  supply  of  papers,  and 
choice  musicians ;  it  has  bathing- houses,  billiard-rooms,  ball 
pin  alleys,  ornamented  grounds,  shaded  walks,  with  cascades, 
fountains,  and  embowered  streams,  imparting  a  grateful  cool- 
ness. Extensive  stabling,  covered  carriage-houses,  &c.  are 
provided.  The  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore  Rail-road  is  in 
two  miles,  with  oranibusses  in  attendance ;  carriages  or  sad- 
dle horses  are  ready  for  jaunts  to  the  most  interesting  sites, 
either  historical  or  picturesque.  There  are  40  schools  in  this 
city.  There  is  a  library  of  3,000  volumes,  four  printing-offices 
and  papers.  The  two  boarding-schools  for  boys,  with  one  for 
girls,  owned  by  Friends,  are  of  old  date,  and  very  celebrated. 
The  city  is  furnished  with  water  for  families,  on  the  plan  of 
Philadelphia;  the  streets  are  likewise  rectangular.  It  is  a 
lively,  pleasant  residence,  having  its  own  steam-boats  plying 
to  the  metropolis  of  Pennsylvania. 

The  Christiana  Creek  is  20  miles  long :  the  rail- road  keeps 
near  its  border  for  five  miles  to  Newport,  where  is  a  depth  of 
water  of  nine  feet,  and  to  Chnstiana  Bridge^  five  miles  on,  is 
a  depth  of  six  feet.  Here  is  a  small  hamlet  of  about  50  houses. 
Newark,  five  miles  beyond,  has  the  Delaware  College  and 
an  academy;  it  is  a  pleasant,  healthy  site.  In  five  miles  be- 
yond  we  are  at  Elktoriy  at  the  fork  of  the  river,  at  the  head  of 
tide,  14  miles  above  its  mouth  at  Turkey  Point ;  it  has  a  court 
house,  jail,  and  methodist.church  ;  is  a  neat  quiet  place.  In 
six  miles  we  are  at  the  village  of  North- East,  on  a  stream 
of  that  name;  in  three  rniles  we  are  at  Charlestoui ;  and  in 
seven  miles  we  reach  the  eastern  or  left  bank  of  the  noble 
Susquehannah,  opposite  Havre  de  Grace,  just  above  its  re- 
ception into  theample  bosom  of  the  Chesapeake,  that  ex- 


\     \ 


403 


»to20 

V  many 

vania, 

tin  ar- 

of  the 

inocky 

rm  its 

^est  of 

denta- 

iid  fish 

de,  but 

pposite 

ver  the 

d  in  six 

I  miles, 

having 

unsur- 

I  many 
id  spa- 
Ihaoge 
lies  or 
I  great 
Dliver, 

ny  to 
•nd. 

teort  of 
t  Spar* 
le  Bay ; 
I  pointa 
tidy  six, 
id  nine, 
:,  mouth 
.ock,2i, 
>rt  nine, 
y  Iii^land 
cbmond, 
Burrill's 
:,  Wind- 
.0,  War- 
hington, 
Bland  IS, 
ek, near 
'12,Ro- 
rfolk  87, 


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Wi|pwJ'i'iPMp'^>tn^' MMli^* 


f*' 


A 


o 

5 


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ci^R. 


Si 

A  §=K      E 


B 


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mm^mfmrni^fff^ 


i'  -.^t-: 


A»  : .  -4.  - 


402 

three  e^ 
twoFi 
and  tbj 
is  14  (i 
try  art 
Brand^ 
popult 
cieus 
Chalyl 
accomi 

and  airl   h  ^■■^s^.^-m 
floor  toll  li^N^ 
(aluxur)  if  / 
room  arl  \\  ■  •" 
choice  ni 
pin  alley 
fountain:       /•, 
nesf,    E  . 
provided    I'M- 
two  mile.-^;  fyv^    j  • 
die  horsci  |«  >   j 
either  h|  I 

city.  TK     *  "^-    i;,.,. 
andpapl    ^    N^   |(-*:, 
girls,  oM  jl  1: 

The  citi  i 

Philadei 
lively,  p., 
to  the  ni' iHniIJi 
TheC       k^' 
near  its  '<■•  \o.i^ 
vrater  of  *  |*;^ 
a  depth 
Newar' 
an  aca< 
yond 
tide,  14 
house,  j 
six  m'lu 
of  that  I 
seven  m 
Susqueh       si 
ception    a  to  it 


1»«"  4,^14        «-*.U««(>',-J>      *Ifc(    ,    I.  . 


^VV 


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vA; 

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,^f»     BtUtimare.     ./.J^*^ 


403 


tends  from  this  point  370  miles  to  the  Atlantic,  is  two  to  20 
miles  broad  below  this,  and  nine  fathoms  deep ;  receires  many 
noble  rivers,  that  pervade  the  remote  parts  of  Pennsylvania, 
New- York,  Maryland,  and  Virginia,  and  forms  a  main  ar- 
tery and  a  leading  feature  in  the  map  and  geography  of  the 
United  States.  The  Susquehannah,  Potomac,  Rappahannock, 
York,  and  James  or  Powhattan  rivers,  and  others,  form  its 
confluent  mass  of  waters,  all  yielded  by  the  three  largest  of 
the  old  confederated  States  of  the  Union ;  its  arms,  indenta- 
tions, winding  shores  abound  in  the  luxuries  of  fowl  and  fish 
of  the  choicest  quality  ;  the  river  is  about  a  mile  wide,  but 
the  daily  trains  of  cars  are  soon  transferred  to  the  opposite 
shore  in  Havre  de  Grace,  and  the  route  resurned  over  the 
neck  for  11  miles  below  Hall's  cross  roads,  Harford,  and  in  six 
miles  crossing  Bush  River,  Little  Gunpowder  in  seven  miles, 
and  in  16  miles  we  are  at  ihe  dep6t  at  Baltimore,  having 
finished  98  miles  in  a  style  of  luxury  and  ease  quite  unsur- 
passed. 

*  Baltimore  has  a  population  of  90,000 ;  it  contains  many 
splendid  public  buildings,  churches,  monuments,  and  spa- 
cious hotels ;  of  the  latter,  the  one  adjoining  the  exchange 
is  sufficiently  retired,  quiet,  and  desirable  for  families  or 
traveling  parties ;  it  has  been  erected  and  fitted  up  at  great 
cost;  it  belongs  to  William  Patterson^  Esq.  Robert  Oliver, 

*  St«ani-boat   Route  doDen  tl&e  Chesapeake  Bay  to 
NonTolk— and  up  tlie  James  River  to  Riohmond. 

Leaving  Baltimore,  proceeding  east  past  Fell's  Point,  the  resort  of 
heavy  shipping,  in  three  miles  we  pass  Fort  M'Henry,  in  six  Spar- 
rows Point,  and  in  four  North  Point  at  the  entrance  of  Chesapeake  Bay ; 
then  taking  a  southerly  course  down  the  broad  expanse,  the  pointa 
or  headlands  passed  in  view,  are  Bodkin  four.  Stony  four,  Sandy  six, 
Thomas  10,  Three  Sisters  six,  Herring  Bay  seven,  Sharp's  Island  nine. 
Cove  20,  Drummouth  of  Patuxent  six,  Cedar  four.  Point  Lookout,  mouth 
of  the  Potomac,  17,  Smith's  11,  Windmill,  mouth  of  Rappahannock,  21, 
Gwynn's  Island  seven,  Point  no  Point  six,  New  Point  Comfort  nine. 
Black  river  12,  Old  Point  Comfbrt  10,  Fort  Calhoun  one,  Craney  Inland 
eight,  Norfolk  six,  total  197  miles,  faro  |i  00;  thence  to  Richmond, 
down  to  Craney  Island  six,  Newport  nine,  Tindrel  Shoals  eight,  Burrill'i 
Bar  seven,  James  Town  12,  Dancing  Point  nine.  Tree  Point  six,  Wind- 
mill nine,  Harrison's  six,  City  Point  five,  Sharley  two,  Osborn  10,  War- 
wick SO,  Richmond  seven,  total  116  miles,  fare  |4  00 ;  from  JFathington, 
on  the  Potomac,  to  Alexandria  five,  Mount  Vernon  nine,  Crane  Island  IS, 
Sandy  eight,  Boyd's  18,  Matthias  eight.  Cedar  seven,  Pope's  Creek,  near 
the  birth-place  of  Gen.  Washington,  four,  Blackstone's  15,Peney  12,  Ro- 
ger's 16,  Smith's,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Potofflac,lQve,  thence  to  Norfolk  87, 
—total 206 miles,  .        ,  ,  .,  .  ,    ...    ,„-,v_  . 


ii 
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404 


Waihington  Monument. 


John  Donnell,  and  Sons,  and  Jerome  Napoleon  Bonaparte, 
with  the  intention  of  making  it  a  first-rate,  fashionable 
house ;  it  has  extensive  nuits  of  parlors  and  bed-rooms, 
baths,  reading-room,  with  erery  commodious  arrangement, 
and  has  been  most  admirably  conducted  by  Mr.  Page,  in 
his  quiet,  attentive  way. 

The  Washington  Monument,  and  the  domes  of  the  Ex- 
change and  Cathedral,  make  an  imposing  appearance  in  the 
approach  to  this  city  by  water;  the  surrounding  country 
also  being  hilly,  well  cultivated,  sprinkled  with  villas  and 
country  residences,  the  eye  cannot  but  be  delighted. 

The  late  Barnum's  Hotel  in  Calvert-street,  opposite  the 
Battle  Monument,  is  an  extensive  hou^e,  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
Post-Office,  Museum,  and  many  of  the  public  institutions, 
near  the  busiest  streets,  stage-houses,  &c.  The  great  hotel 
in  Baltimore-street  is  a  new  extensive  house,  fronting  on  two 
streets,  replete  with  every  comfort  in  arrangement,  such  as 
suits  of  parlors  with  adjoining  bed-rooms,  single  or  double 
rooms,  baths,  with  a  copious  supply  of  water,  conducted  up 
the  house  in  leaden  pipes ;  the  upper  stories  and  the  observa- 
tory command  a  most  extensive  view  over  the  city  and  coun- 
try to  Chesapeake  Bay.  The  views  also  from  the  Washing- 
ton Monument  or  the  Shot  Tower,  having  an  extensive  field, 
with  a  bird's-eye  glance  over  the  city,  should  receive  a  visit. 
Besides  these,  there  is  the  Indian  Queen  Hotel  and  several 
others,  and  many  boarding-houses. 

The  Washington  Monument,  a  column  of  white  marble,  is 
situated  on  very  elevated  ground,  in  the  vtpper  part  of  the 
city,  with  a  surrounding  park  ;  the  shaft,  20  feet  in  diameter 
at  bottom,15  at  top,  rises  to  the  height  of  160  feet,  the  figure 
at  top  is  15  feet,  the  base  is  50  feet  square,  25  in  height,  sur- 
rounded by  an  iron  railing ;  the  ascent  to  the  top  is  arduous, 
but  is  accomplished  by  a  winding  stone  stair-case  of  330  steps, 
occupying  the  interior  of  the  pillar  or  shaft,  that  opens  at  the 
summit  on  an  area,  secured  by  an  iron  railing  around  the 
exterior  circumference. 

The  Catholic  Cathedral  is  the  most  splendid  in  the  United 
States ;  it  possesses  two  valuable  paintings,  presented  by 
Charles  X,  King  of  France ;  the  green  curtain  covering  them 
is  withdrawn  aAer  mass  on  Sundays;  the  music  and  singing 
here  is  truly  delightful  and  attractive  to  strangers.  The 
deep-toned  bell  of  this  Cathedral  is  remarkably  fine. 
'-*  The  Unitarian  Church,  near  the  Cathedral,  is  one  of  the 


(l  t' 


Univtr»ity  of  Maryland. 


:^1 


405 


handsome  structures  of  the  city,  it  is  also,  with  St  Paura 
(Episcopal)  Church,  frequented  by  the  fashionable.  There 
are  many  other  places  of  worship  of  various  denominations 
scattered  about  the  city,  of  less  pretension  as  to  style  or 
architecture. 

The  University  of  Maryland,  the  atheneum,  two  theatres, 
museum,  hospital,  court-house,  penitentiary,  alms-houses, 
five  markets,  10  banks,  50  or  more  churches,  together  with 
the  appropriate  monument  in  Cal vert-street,  to  the  memory 
of  those  brave  citizens  that  gloriously  fell  in  battle  in  the  de- 
fence of  their  city,  when  attacked  in  1814  by  the  enemy,  are, 
togethei  with  the  unrivalled  cathedral  and  monument,  strong 
evidences  of  the  existence  of  great  public  spirit  and  activity 
in  the  citizens,  and  a  just  pride  in  its  literary,  scientific, 
charitable,  and  religious  instiiuiionH. 

The  hotels  and  public  houses  vie  in  size  and  accommo- 
dation with  those  of^the  other  cities  of  the  United  States ;  the 
private  mansions  are  many  of  tiicm  handsome,  all  are  sub- 
stantial, neat,  chiefly  of  brick ;  the  streets  are  rectangular, 
the  raiUroads  and  cars  are  introduced  to  the  centre  of  the 
city,  in  Pratt-street,  near  the  water's  edge,  for  the  conveni- 
ence of  trade  and  travel.  Beside  the  great  western  rail-road 
of  300  miles  to  Wheeling,  Ohio,  soon  to  be  completed,  an- 
other of  60  miles  extends  due  north  to  Fork  Havetif  on  the 
Susquehannah,  that  will  attract  trade  and  travel  from  that 
direction  in  part ;  this,  with  the  canal  along  tiie  river  of  40 
miles  from  Port  Deposit  to  the  coal  regions  in  Pennsylvania, 
will  conduce  much  to  improve  and  mature  the  internal  trade 
and  resources  of  this  thriving  city.  Much  of  the  modern  part 
of  the  city,  and  decidedly  the  most  healthy  and  pleasant  in 
the  view  of  a  stranger,  is  built  on  the  more  elevated  grounds 
near  and  around  the  Cathedral  and  Monument;  it  is  fast 
extending  and  prevailing  in  that  quarter.  The  latitude  of  39° 
IT  north  ensures  it  a  temperate  climate  and  mild  seasons, 
favorable  to  navigation  and  early  spring  trade. 

The  merchants  and  inhabitants  of  Baltimore  possess  a 
large  share  of  wealth,  industry,  and  enterprise,  us  is  evinced 
by  the  accomplishment  of  their  public  works  of  internal  im- 
provement for  the  securing  of  the  western  trade,  also  by  the 
active,  foreign,  and  domestic  business  here  transacted. 

Flour  and  tobacco  being  the  staple  commodities  of  Mary- 
land, are  here  exported  in  great  quantities,  constituting  the 
leading  articles  of  the  State.  The  harbor  is  safe,  and  is  formed 


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40« 


Baltimore  and  Vicinity. 


by  a  large  inlet  extending;  west  from  the  Chesapeake,  called 
the  Patapsco;  the  upper  portion  of  it  forms  an  extensive 
commodious  basin  in  the  central  commercial  part  of  the 
city,  surrounded  by  spacious  warehouses,  accessible  by  steam- 
boats, coasting  vessels,  or  schooners;  the  heavy  ships  coma 
to  at  Fell's  Point,  at  some  distance  below. 

Steam-boats  for  Norfolk,  and  for  the  eastern  route,  start 
from  the  east  side  of  the  basin,  foot  of  South-street.  The  div- 
tance  to  Norfolk  197  miles,  fare  S8  00.  Though  only  40  mile« 
by  rail-road  direct  to  the  city  of  VVashiugton,  yet  by  the  circuit 
of  the  Chesapeake  and  up  the  Potomac  it  is  204  miles,  and 
to  Philadelphia,  by  a  like  circuitous  conveyance  round  the 
capes,  it  would  be  206  miles,  that  the  direct  rail-road  shortens 
to  96  miles.  By  land  to  Wheeling,  on  the  Ohio,  by  the  near- 
est route  across  the  Allcghanics,  is  279  miles. 

Baltimore  is  well  supplied  with  pure  water,  leading  from 
Jones'  Falls,  a  small  stream  that  pervades  the  lower  ground 
of  the  city,  and  over  which  there  are  s^  ral  bridges;  near 
by  is  one  of  the  principal  markets ;  also  u  lOt  tower  upwards 
of200  feet  high. 

The  elevated  ridge  on  the  south  side  of  the  basin  com- 
roands  a  good  view  of  the  city,  harbor,  and  of  the  distant 
waters  of  the  bay ;  here  are  the  signal  poles,  communicating 
with  others,  also  with  the  rotunda  in  the  Merchants'  Ex- 
change. 

The  plan  of  the  city  is  laid  out  with  as  much  regularity  as 
the  ground  will  admit ;  the  streets  are  too  destitute  of  shade- 
trees,  are  of  moderate  width,  kept  in  tolerable  order,  but  are 
not  liberally  or  sufficiently  lighted  at  night;  but  the  general 
aspect  betokens  solidity  and  comfort. 

In  September,  1814,  an  unsuccessful  attempt  was  made  by 
the  British  fleet  and  arms  to  capture  this  city.  A  detachment 
of  several  thousand  men,  under  the  command  of  Gen.  Rosf>, 
landed  at  North  Point,  12  miles  east  of  Baltimore,  but  were 
met  by  the  American  troops,  principally  composed  of  militia 
hastily  collected  from  the  city  and  vicinity.  A  battle  ensued  ; 
Gen.  Ross  was  killed,  and  many  lives  were  lost  on  both  sides. 
There  \a  a  handsome  monument  in  Calvert-street,  in  memory 
of  those  citizens  of  Baltimore  that  fell  in  this  engagement. 
Fort  M'Henry  was  at  the  same  time  bombarded,  but  without 
any  effect,  when  the  fleet  and  army  of  the  enemy  retired. 


StuqutkaniMh  Rail-road. 


m 


Siisquebannali  RaiNroad. 

From  Baltimore  this  road  extends  north  66  miles  to  York, 
thence  east  north-east  lli^  miles  to  Wrightsville,  on  the  Sus-> 
quehanuah  River  opposite  Columbia,  with  which  it  is  con> 
nected  by  a  bridge  one  and  a  quarter  miles  long,  and  then 
reaches  the  Pennsylvania  improvements  of  canal  and  rail- 
road to  Pittsburgh,  of  373  miles,  and  of  rail-road  to  Philadel- 
phia 82  miles.  Thus  from  Columbia  it  is  13  miles  less  dislancii 
to  Baltimore  than  to  Philadelphia. 

It  leaves  Baltimore  from  the  dep6t  in  Cathedral-street,  and 
strikes  the  Gunpowder  about  half  a  mile  above  Tyron*8  mill, 
and  continues  along  the  right  or  west  bank  of  that  stream  to 
the  forks;  then  follows  the  north  branch  as  far  as  its  junction 
with  Bee  Tree  River,  leaves  this  last  stream  at  its  source,  and 
follows  the  Codorus  to  York. 

The  rails  on  this  road  are  xolid  and  much  superior  to  some, 
and  will  be  more  durable.  The  grades  are  gentle,  but  in  one 
place,  for  a  short  distance,  the  locos  have  ascended  the  un- 
heard-of acclivity  of  84  feet  in  a  mile,  or  in  that  proportion 
for  a  short  distance,  and  a  weight  equal  to  250  passengers,  at 
a  speed  of  seven  miles  an  hour.  The  curves  are  slight,  being, 
with  but  a  few  exceptions,  over  1,000  feet  radius. 

About  five  miles  south  of  York,  is  a  tunnel  of  250  feet  long. 
The  branch  of  11^  miles  to  VVrightsville,  passes  through  a 
beautiful  and  fertile  valley,  and  has  gentle  grades. 

From  York  there  is  also  a  rail-road  to  Gettysburgh ;  and  at 
Chambersburgh,  25  miles  west  of  Gettysburgh,  is  a  continuous 
line  of  rail-road, — the  Cumberland  Valley  Rail-road,  of  162 
miles  to  Philadelphia,  via  Carlisle,  Harrisburgh,  and  Lancas- 
ter, through  in  10  or  12  hours,  that  will  soon  be  extended  over 
the  magnificent  barriers  of  the  AUeghaniesto  Pittsburgh,  162 
miles  west,  thus  making  Gettysburgh  the  half  way  between 
Pittsburgh  and  Philadelphia,  and  the  transit  from  the  Dela- 
ware  to  the  Ohio  thus  easily  made  in  20  to  24  hours. 

The  engineers  have  ascertained  that  a  track  for  this  road 
can  lie  taken  over  the  Cove  Mountain,  at  a  grade  or  elevation 
not  over  50  feet  to  the  mile,  and  that,  by  the  same  route,  from 
Bedford  to  Philadelphia  is  227  miles  only. 


,i 


^HH 


409 


Itail-romd/rom  Bmllimort  to  Wathington* 


Bail-road  from  Baltlniore  toUTash- 

loKton* 

The  rail-road  from  Baltitnoro  to  Washington  starts  from 
the  general  dep6t  in  Pratt-street,  and  foliows  the  same  line  as 
before  described,  in  going  to  Eiiicott's  mills,  but  diverges 
at  Elkridge  Landing  at  the  mouth  of  the  Patapsco,  10 
miles,  thence  strikes  off  to  the  Savage  Factory  Branch,  nine 
mileSf  (with  the  divergence  to  Annapolis  alluded  to,)  Vanns- 
ville  eight,  Bladensburg  seven,  Washington  six ,<— total,  40 
miles ;  fare,  $2.  Here  at  present  ends  the  progress  of  the 
raiUroad  to  the  south  or  west ;  the  present  route  is  by  steam- 
boat down  the  Potomac  to  Fredericksburg,yirginia,  60  miles  ; 
thence  by  rail-road  through  Virginia  and  North  Carolina,  a 
long  stretch  of  263  miles  to  Wilmington,  on  the  coast  of 
North  Carolina,  as  more  minutely  described  hereafter. 

Washington,  the  present  seat  of  the  National  Government, 
is  comprised  in  the  area  of  10  miles  square,  that  was  ceded 
by  Maryland  and  Virginia  to  the  United  States  in  full  sove- 
reignty when  the  archives  And  government  were  transferred 
from  Philadelphia.  The  permanent  population  may  amount 
to  over  30,000 ;  the  transient  population  during  the  session 
of  Congress  adds  much  life,  vivacity,  gaiety,  beauty,  fashion, 
and  display  of  ostentation  and  dissipation ;  at  other  times, 
the  city  is  dull,  tame,  vapid,  and  disagreeable. 

The  Magnificent  Capitol,  the  headquarters  of  the  Repre- 
sentatives of  the  People  and  of  the  States,  with  its  extensive 
library  of  16,000  volumes,  the  surrounding  and  highly  em- 
bellished grounds,  tastefully  laid  out,  and  planted  vi^ith  trees, 
shrubbery,  and  exotics,  native  and  foreign,  guarded  by  an 
iron  railing,  is  of  itself  an  immense  structure,  to  be  ex- 
amined in  detail  from  the  crypt  to  the  towering  dome. 

The  President's  House,  the  curiosities  in  the'War  and  In- 
dian departments,  the  records  and  revolutionary  documents 
in  the  Secretary  of  State's  office,  and  the  patents  and  curious 
machines  and  inventions,  with  a  jaunt  to  Mount  Vernon, 
Alexandria,  the  Falls  of  the  Potomac,  Georgetown,  and  the 
battle-grounds  in  the  vicinitv,  with  many  attractive  views  in 
the  environs,  are  worthy  of  being  souent  out  by  all  curious 
strangers.    The  navy  yard  is  also  entitled  to  attention. 

The  Rotunda  of  the  Capitol  under  the  centre  dome  is  paved 
with  marble i  it  is  90  feet  high  and  in  diameter;  the  reverbe- 


places  of  ^vorshlp  for  Presbytenaris,  two  »or  r^pwcuiialians, 
one  each  for  Friends  and  Catholica;  ita  strceti  and  iquarM 

36 


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The  Rotunda  of  the  Capitol  under  the  centre  dome  is  paved 
with  mArblei  it  is  90  feet  high  and  in  diainetei'i  the  reverbe- 


Mount  Vernon,  S(C. 


409 


rations  of  sound  made  here  have  an  aitounding  eflect.  Four 
niches  over  the  doors  leading  ou:  uf  this  room  contain  each 
basso  relievos  of  historical  scenes;  Ist,  Of  the  landing  of 
the  Pilgrims  at  Plymouth,  Mass.  in  1620;  2nd,  IVin,  Penn 
forming  a  treaty  with  the  aborigines  in  168*2,  in  Pennsylvania  ; 
3d,  Pocahontas  interposing  to  save  the  life  of  Captain  John 
Smith  in  Virginia,  from  the  uplifted  club  of  Powhatan,  in  1606 ; 
4th,  A  scene  characteristic  of  the  skirmishes  of  the  early 
settlers  of  Kentucky — Daniel  Boon  and  others. 

Besides  the  above,  here  are  also  Trumbull's  painting  of 
the  Declaration  of  Independence  in  1776,  containing  exact 
portraits  of  all  the  signers  of  that  immortal  state  paper;  the 
most  prominent  figures  in  the  foreground  are  Thomas  Jef- 
ferson, Benjamin  Franklin,  John  Adams,  Roger  Sherman, 
and  Chancellor  Livingston,  the  drafting  committee,  present* 
ing  the  sama  to  John  Hancock,  the  President  or  Chairman 
of  Congress. 

The  Capture  of  Cornwallis  and  the  British  Army  at  York- 
town,  in  Virginia,  is  faithful  in  its  likenesses  of  Washington 
and  the  principal  American  ofRcers;  but  those  of  the  Brirish 
are  not  attempted  by  the  artist. 

IVashinglon  resigning  his  Commission  is  the  last  and  closing 
scene  of  the  drama  of  the  revolution,  as  here  painted  by  Col. 
Trumbull,  himself  a  participator  in  the  stirring  scenes  he  so 
faithfully  represents.  Statues  of  War  and  of  Peace,  sculp- 
tured by  ■ "  ■"  ■  an  Italian  artist,  are  on  each  side  of  the  main 
entrance  of  the  east  front  of  the  Capitol.  * 

At  the  Navy  Yard,  a  mile  from  the  Capitol,  is  a  monumental 
tribute  to  the  brave  officers  of  the  United  States  Navy  that 
fell  in  the  attack  of  Tripoli. 

Mount  Vernon  is  a  melancholy  place  of  pilgrimage,  from  its 
neglected  dilapidated  condition  and  its  troublesome  access, 
except  by  water.  The  remains  of  Washingt07i,  now  depo- 
sited in  the  new  marble  sarcophagus  and  vault,  after  await- 
ing nearly  half  a  century  the  tardy  action  of  Congress,  seem 
destined  to  be  consigned  to  a  more  distant  posterity  to  have 
full  justice  awarded  by  the  country  to  his  fame,  so  far  at  can 
be  exhibited  by  a  splendid  national  monument. 

In  the  Museum  at  Alexandria  may  be  seen  a  few  relics 
that  belonged  to  Washington  in  his  early  and  latter  years. 

The  population  of  Alexandria  is  about  8,000.  It  has  two 
places  of  worship  for  Presbyterians,  two  for  Episcopalians, 
one  each  for  Friends  and  Catholics;  its  streets  and  squarts 


irn 

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,^  Gaorgetoten. 


are  well  arranged;  much  life,  fashion,  and  .activity  prevail 
here  during  the  session  of  Congress  in  Washington;  at  other 
timet  it  is  not  so  animated.  The  connection  or  extension  of 
the  rail- road  from  Fredericksburg  through  this  place  to 
Washington,  thus  completing  the  only  link  wanting,  is  most 
desirable  for  the  public  accommodation,  and  cannot  long  be 
withheld. 

Georgetown  is  a  suburb  of  Washington,  being  separated 
from  it  only  by  Rock  Creek,  and  the  basin  of  the  Chesapeake 
and  Ohio  Canal,  on  the  banks  of  the  Potomac.  The  popula- 
tion is  about  9,600,  It  is  three  miles  to  the  Capitol  Hill.  The 
edifices  of  the  Catholic  College  of  Georgetown  are  spacious 
and  have  180  students.  There  is  also  a  Nunnery  of  60  in- 
mates, and  a  boarding-school  of  120  young  ladies.  It  is  con« 
sidered  healthy ;  its  site  is  elevated  and  pleasant.  There  are 
four  churches,— ^Episcopal,  Presbyterian,  Baptist,  Method- 
ist,—and  a  court-house  and  academy. 

A  ride  to  the  Falls  of  the  Potomac^  16  miles  distant,  is  usu* 
ally  made  by  strangers  in  the  pleasant  season,  following  the 
left  bank  and  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal  for  five  miles,  and 
then  crossing  by  a  hanging  bridge  of  116  feet  Jong  acd  16 
wide  to  the  right.  The  trees  seen  are  oak  and  hickory.  The 
shores  are  rocky,  with  hills  of  agreeable  undulation.  Above 
the  falls,  the  Potomac  is  a  mile  and  a  quarter  wide;  it  soon 
contracts  as  it  approaches  the  gorge  and  alters  its  direction. 
The  rooks  are  of  slate  in  strata,  glossy,  and  sparkling.  At  the 
Falls  the  river  is  1,160  feet  wide,  with  several  chutes  raging 
and  roaring  in  the  depths  and  in  various  crevices;  the  de- 
scent of  the  full  being  about  40  feet.  In  the  dry  season  the 
quantity  of  water  here  is  very  limited.  The  bed  of  the  river 
bristling  with  dark  rough  rocks  of  a  cavernous  tortuous  for- 
mation, in  admired  disorder,  must  in  a  full  stage  of  water 
have  a  grand  stunning  effect,  as  beheld  in  safety  from  a  se- 
cure position  on  the  elevated  precipice  adjacent. 


bii 


Rail-road  from  Baltiiiiore  to  Annapolis. 

The  rail-road  from  Baltimore  to  Annapolis  pursues  the 
Washington  route  to  the  18th  niile-stono,  at  a  point  1G8  feet 
above  tide;  the  line  conforms  to  the  waving  nature  of  the 
ground  near  the  creit  or  dividing  ridge  between  the  Patux- 
ent  and  Severn  Rivers,  passing  from  the  Patapsco  by  Chand- 


!  ij  I' 


Rail-road  from  Baltimore  to  Annapolis.  411 

ler'8  or  Dorset's  Run,  and  through  Rogue's  Run,  towards  the 
Severn,  spanning  the  former  by  a  wooden  trestle  or  pile 
bridge,  and  the  latter  bj  a  permanent  embankment  over  a 
stone  culvert.  A  singular  feature  of  this  country  is,  that  the 
lateral  ridges  are  higher  than  the  main  or  dividing  ridge, 
the  level  ground  being  on  the  summit  of  the  plateau. 

The  road  diverges  to  the  south-east,  near  the  Savage 
factory  and  the  valuable  granite  quarries  of  the  Patuxent, 
and  in  the  first  mile  crosses  Chandler's  Run.  At  the  end  of 
the  third  mile  is  a  very  narrow  ledge,  the  outcropping  of  a 
conglomerate  of  pebbles  united  by  a  ferruginous  cement, 
forming  the  basis  of  the  country  neur  Dorsey's  and  Miller's ; 
here  the  high  embankment  spans  the  road  and  water-way, 
and  at  the  deep  cut  at  the  sixth  mile,  near  Watts*  tavern, 
through  a  narrow  sand  ridge  to  the  seventh  mile  deep  cut, 
past  Sappington's  ;  and  in  the  next  mile  the  deep  cut  of  20 
feet  is  seen  of  46,000  cubic  yard:*,  and  strikes,  in  the  ninth 
mile,  Jay's  branch,  and  ends  on  Dorsey's  farm. 

The  next  division  has  98,645  cubic  yards  of  excavation 
and  101,808  cubic  yards  of  embankment,  ending  in  two  and 
a  half  miles,  near  the  primary  school-house,  the  sun  tavern, 
and  post-office;  then  tbiluwti  in  two  miles  115,200  cubic 
yards  of  embankment  and  1  i2,000  cubic  yards  of  excava- 
tion, ending  opposite  Inglehart's  house  ;  thence  in  A)ur  and 
a  half  miles  it  ends  in  the  upper  part  of  West  Annapolis. 
The  approach  to  Annapolis  is  peculiarly  fine. 

The  length  from  the  radiating  point  on  the  Washington 
road  is  19|  miles,  or  28  miles  from  Baltimore.  Cost  ^350,000. 
The  population  of  the  capital  or  seat  of  State  government 
is  2,700;  '  s  public  buildnigs  are  the  state-house,  where  Gen. 
Washington  resigne<l  his  commission  to  the  continental  con- 
gress at.er  the  close  of  the  revolutionary  war,  an  Episcopal 
and  Mmwdist  Church,  a  theatre,  and  bank.  The  streets  ra- 
diate fmm  the  line  state-house  and  churches.  It  is  a  city 
and  part  of  entry,  ivo  miles  from  the  south-west  side  of 
the  moatb  of  the  Severn,  that  joms  the  Chesapeake  Bay  40 
wtikam  east-north-east  of  Washington  ;  its  site  is  healthy  and 
plea 


It  i 
1 1 


|i 


iht 


'   I 


412         Vicinity  of  Baltimore^  Falls,  Water-PotDer,  SfC^ 


Vicinity  of  Baltimore,  Fails,  UTater- 
^  Ponrer,  Ae» 

The  vicinity  of  Baltimore  13  remarkable  for  its  great  water 
poiver,  as  within  20  miles  of  the  city  it  is  computed  the  pow- 
er is  adequate  to  keep  in  motion  1,613,000  cotton  spindles. 
But  a  small  portion  of  this  immense  power  is  occupied  by  the 
flour  mills,  factories.  &c.  although  there  are  within  its  influ- 
ence between  60  and  60  flour  mills,  one  of  them  having 
turned  out  over  30,000  barrels  in  a  year.  Manufactories  of 
iron,  cotton,  gunpowder,  paper,  and  cloths  are  also  establish- 
ed. The  trade  not  only  of  Maryland  but  much  of  that  of 
Pennsylvania  and  the  States  west  of  the  Ohio,  is  here  con- 
centrated, and  in  foreign  and  home  trade  this  city  holds  the 
third  rank  in  the  Union,  with  a  population  of  80,000  to  90,000. 
Vessels  of  200  tons  can  with  difficulty  reach  the  inner  basin ; 
those  of  the  larger  dimensions  cannot  get  much  farther  up 
than  Fell's  Point.  A  portion  of  the  lower  part  of  the  city 
is  separated  from  the  upper  by  a  small  run  of  water  call- 
ed Jones'  Falls,  that  has  several  bridges,  and  that  is  sub- 
jected to  tremendous  and  dangerous  floods;  but  there  is  a 
portion  of  it  drawn  ofl^at  a  suitable  distance  above  the  city, 
and  conducted  to  a  reservoir,  that  is  convenient  for  its  dis- 
tribution to  the  citizens  in  h^'drants  and  fountains. 

The  Patapsco  River,  within  10  miles  of  Baltimore,  has  193 
feet  fall  or  elevation  above  the  tide,  at  the  head  dam  of  EUi- 
cott's  old  upper  mill,  and  five  miles  farther  up  is  76  feet 
more  fall. 

The  Great  Gunpowder  Falls,  21  miles  off,  on  the  York  road, 
has  an  elevation  of  .300  feet  above  tide,  and  a  power  equal  to 
the  Patapsco  below  EUieott's. 

Little  Gunpowder  Falls,  250  feet  of  descent,  within  10  to 
20  miles. 
Jont 
Choi 
Hen 
Unic 
Win 

Patuxent  River,  north  branch  at  Savage's  Cotton  Factory, 
is  181  feet  above  tide. 

Ditto  west  branch,  a  fall  of  160  feet. 

Having  given  the  partiruinrs  of  the  leading  rail-road  and 


Jones'  Falls,  in 

10 

miles 

of  the  city,     259 

feet. 

Qioinns'  Falls, 

10 

do. 

do.             373 

do. 

Herring  River, 

5 

do. 

do.             150 

do. 

Union  River, 

5 

do. 

do.             106 

do. 

Winters*  River, 

5 

do. 

do.              150 

do. 

• 


Grand  Route  to  tht  South-*De$tf  Sfc. 


413 


canal  routes  from  Philadelphia,  through  the  central  parts  of 
Pennsylvania  to  Pittsburgh  and  Wheeling,  we  also  give  the 
details  of  the  present  rail*road  and  stage  route  from  Balti* 
more,  through  Maryland,  Pennsylvania,  and  Virginia,  by  tho 
national  road  to  Wheeling. 

The  two  grand  routes  above  referred  to  in  the  two  adjoin- 
ing States  pursue  nearly  parallel  lines  in  their  western  course, 
being,  as  at  Chamhertburgh  and  Hagerstown,  Jd^ConnelPa 
Town,  and  Hancockstown,  not  over  30  miles  apart,  and 
also  between  Cumberland  in  Maryland,  Bedford,  and  So- 
merset in  Pennsylvania,  is  the  same  attraction  inwards 
each  other:  it  continues  to  draw  nearer,  until,  at  Washington 
in  Pennsylvania,  they  both  merge  in  the  grand  national  road 
to  the  Onio  River  at  Wheeling.  That  two  such  rival  routes 
may  be  duly  appreciated,  we  shall  give  the  items  of  the 
south  or  lower  road  from  Baltimore  to  Frederick,  Hagers- 
town,  Cumberland,  and  Wheeling,  as  existing  at  present. 
For  the  Pennsylvania  route  see  page  367. 

The  entire  rail-road  route  over  the  mountains  in  Pennsyl- 
vania or  Maryland,  from  Chambersburgh  or  Frederick  re- 
spectively, can  hardly  be  completed  for  several  years,  in  the 
face  of  tne  present  depression  and  financial  embarrassment. 


a'! 
i 


\W 


Orand  Route  to  the  South-west,  from 
Harpcr^s  Ferry  &  Winchester,  through 
Virginia  and  the  mountain  regions  of 
the  Caroiinas,  Tennessee,  and  Oeorgia. 

This  journey  may  be  so  arranged  as  to  occupy  a  month  or 
more,  according  to  the  time  allotted  to  the  various  places  of 
fashionable  resort:  the  caves,  natural  bridges,  or  tunnels, 
gaps,  springs,  (in  all  their  variety  of  white,  black,  red,  blue, 
or  clear  sulphur,)  falls,  and  other  natural  curiosities,  visits  to 
elevated  peaks  or  mountain  crests,  pinnacles,  or  knobs. 

This  comparatively  new  but  fashionable  touk  may  be 
entered  upon  by  travelers  from  the  Eastern  or  Middle  States 
conveniently,  by  following  the  extensive  fertile  limestone 
valley  of  Virginia,  from  Winchester  in  the  north-east  to 
Abingdon  in  the  south-west,  307  miles,  or  via  Ricliroond  and 
Lynchburgh,  see  page  431.    It  can  be  prolonged  with  de 

35* 


U' 


414 


Orand  Route  to  the  South-toetiy  SfC. 


light  through  the  valley  of  Holston,  Clinch,  and  Tenneiiee 
Rivers,  to  Blountsville  and  Knoxville,  Tenneisee,  thence 
by  the  Hiwasse  Rail-road  for  98  miles  in  use,  to  ithe  State 
line  of  Tennessee  (here  see  the  Nickojaek  Cave^  the  Suck  in 
the  Tennessee  River,  and  the  Look  Out  Mountain)  and  Geor- 
gia, thence  by  rail- road  through  the  interesting  gold  region 
and  charming  tract  of  country  recently  vacated  by  the  tribe 
of  Cherokees,  (a  serai-civilized  race  of  red  skins,  now  sup- 
planted by  semi-barbarous,  rough  class  of  whites  or  blacks, 
as  pioneers  for  a  better  race  hereafter,)  thence  by  rail-road 
through  the  north-west  counties  of  Georgia,  by  New  Echota, 
CasBville,  Marietta,  Decatur,  118  miles;  (the  Scone  Moun- 
tain, a  lofty  insulated  eminence  near  here,  is  a  curiosity, 
and  an  object  of  admiration  to  the  residents  on  the  low 
lands;)  Covington,  Madison,  Greensboro',  Warrenton,  to 
Augusta,  123  miles;  to  Charleston,  186  miles. 
,  A  variation  may  be  preferred  by  adhering  to  the  hilly 
country,  and  leaving  the  rail-road  at  Echota,  and  going  east 
to  Dahlonega,  (the  new  United  States  Mint,)  to  Clarksville 
in  Habersham  County,  visiting  the  Toccoa  and  Turora  Falls 
in  that  vicinity,  crossing  the  Savannah  River  to  Pendleton, 
and  through  a  corner  of  South  Carolina;  thence  by  the  upper 
western  Counties  in  North  Carohna,  by  Asheville,  on  the 
French  Broad,  again  crossing  the  Blue  Ridge  to  Morganton  ; 
or  taking  a  zig-zag  course,  amid  the  fine  system  of  moun- 
tains, leisurely  back  in  Georgia,  North  Carolina,  and  Vir- 
ginia to  Lynchburg;  visiting  the  Table  and  Glass  Mountains 
in  South  Carolina,  and  the  Pilot  J^IountaiUj  and  the  pinnacles 
of  the  Dan  in  North  Carolina,  the  Peaks  of  Otler^  &c.  No 
region  on  this  continent  can  be  more  attractive  in  its  scenery 
or  enjoy  a  purer  air  than  this,  in  this  latitude  (34  to  37°,) 
while  adhenng  to  the  uninvaded  domams  of  these  mountain 
ramparts. 

The  traveling  between  Baltimore  and  Winchester  in  Vir- 
ginia, is  easily  performed  in  a  day;  viz.  70  miles  on  the  Bal- 
timore and  Ohio  Rail-road,  to  the  point  of  rocks  on  the  Poto- 
mac, in  six  hours,  from  whence  is  taken  the  Chesapeake  and 
Ohio  Canal  to  Harper's  Ferry,  that  takes  two  hours,  and 
thence  to  Winchester  30  miles,  by  the  rail-road,  time  eight 
or  nine  hours  from  Baltimore  to  Winchester;  from  whence 
the  route  leads  to  the  Virginia  Springs,  in  a  south-west  direc- 
tion, parallel  with  the  Blue  Ridge,  through  the  great  valley 
between  the  mountain  ridges.  The  arrangements  of  the  rail- 


National  Armory  at  Harp^^s  Ftrry. 


415 


road^  canal,  and  coaches,  have  been  regulated  with  a  view  to 
co-operation,  so  that  no  time  is  unnecessarily  consumed  on 
any  part  of  the  route.  Travelers  not  intending  to  pass  on 
to  the  southern  States  in  the  summer  season,  may  safely  pats 
by  this  route,  as  above  designated,  and  behold  the  splendid 
mountain  scenery,  and  the  celebrated  gorge  of  the  Hhtnan- 
doah  and  Potomac  at  their  confluence  at  Harper  s  Ferry ^  and 
also  the  United  States  Armory  and  Dep6t  there  established, 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Potomac.  The  structures  of  the  Na- 
tional Armory  are  t«vo  rows  of  seven  large  stone  buildings  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountain,  on  the  bank  oi'^the  Potomac  River. 
The  muskets  cost  the  government  $10  loStS  each.  There  are 
1,500  inhabitants,  including  the  workmen.  There  are  also 
several  houses  and  a  beautiful  Catholic  chapel  perched 
upon  sites  cut  from  the  solid  ruck,  at  elevations  of  from 
fifty  to  one  hundred  feet,  that  are  approached  by  flights  of 
steps  also  cut  from  the  rock,  that  have  a  beautiful  and  ro- 
mantic appearance,  and  command  a  fino  view  of  the  whole 
scene.  There  is  a  covered  bridge  over  the  Potomac.  From 
the  neighboring  hills  there  are  gratifying  views  in  several 
directions,  and  the  traveler  should  not  omit  to  reach  the 
rock  called  after  Mr.  Jefferson,  from  being  the  spot  where 
he  wrote  his  account  of  this  place  in  his  ^' Kales  on  Virginia?'* 
This  singular  rock  is  on  a  high  hill  that  overhangs  the  town; 
its  top  is  flat,  nearly  square,  and  about  twelve  feet  wide,  its 
base  does  not  exceed  four  or  five  feet  in  width,  and  rests  upon 
the  top  of  a  larger  mass  ofrock  jutting  from  the  hill;  its  height 
is  about  four  or  five  feet ;  it  can  be  made  to  vibrate  on  its  base, 
but  let  no  sacrilegious  hand  or  means  be  ever  applied  for 
its  displacement.  The  Globe  Inn  (Fitzsiramon's)  is  said  to  be 
good. 

The  National  Armory  at  Harper's  Ferry,  in  Virginia,  re- 
quires an  expenditure  of  about  one  hundred  thousand  dollars 
per  annum.  The  eulogium  on  this  celebrated  position,  the 
junction  of  the  Shenandoah  and  Potomac,  mentioned  by  Mr. 
Jefferson  in  his  "Notes  on  Virginia"  as  "being  worth  a 
voyage  across  the  Atlantic  to  behold  from  his  position  on  the 
elevated  rock  alluded  to,  was  published  half  a  century  since, 
when  all  this  vicinity  was  a  wilderness,  the  noted  White  Sul- 
phur Spring  being  barely  alluded  to,  and  only  one  Natural 
Bridge  in  the  limestone  rock  then  known ;  now  the  nume- 
rous sulpur  springs  in  this  State  ooze  out  in  hundreds  of  places, 
in  exactly  the  positions  most  needful  or  convenient  as  hyge- 


! 


I 


n 


4U 


Woodttoek. 


ian  regorls  for  the  cure  of  diseases  arising  from  bilious  dii- 
organization,  and  where  the  pure  mountain  air  is  at  the  same 
time  fully  enjoyed  z»  an  auxiliary,  and  other  striking  posi- 
tions or  sublime  natural  features  are  developed. 

As  far  as  Harper's  Ferry,  or  Winchester,  we  can  travel 
smooth  as  satin,  m  first-rate  modern  style;  then  comes  the 
change  to  the  old,  slow,  unsteady  method  of  stages  or  post- 
coaches,  over  any  thing  but  a  bed  of  roses;  but  to  Winchester, 
and  no  farther  in  this  direction,  has  the  net-work  of  our  fine 
system  of  rail-roads  penetrated;  we  have  reason  to  be  satisfied 
for  even  enjoying  it  m  the  last  30  miles,  in  contrast  with  its 
former  rough  natural  state.  We  pass  in  18  miles  from  Har- 
per's, Smithfield,  and  in  seven  miles  occurs  a  warm  sulphur 
springy  as  we  travel  pleasantly  over  a  region  shaded  by  oaks, 
chesnuts,  acacias,  and  cedars,  in  sight  of  gurgling  brooks, 
when  in  due  time  we  are  at  Winchester,  the  county-seat  of 
Frederick,  in  Virginia,  70  miles  from  Baltimore  or  Washing- 
ton ;  it  has  5,0U0  inhabitants,  a  church  for  Presbyterians,  Epi&i. 
copalians,  Lutherans,  Baptists,  Methodists,  Roman  Catholics : 
also  a  court-house,  jail,  alms-house,  market,  two  banks,  two 
academies,  a  free-mason's  hall,  two  newspaper  offices:  the 
streets  paved,  the  houses  of  brick,  the  families  receiving  water 
from  a  reservoir.  Mineral  springs  are  near  that  attract  much 
company ;  it  ii  a  healthy,  pleasant  residence  and  important 
flour  mart.  Taylor's  Hotel  is  the  best.  It  is  95  miles  to  Staun- 
ton, via  Stephensburg  nine  miles,  Strasburg  11,  Woodstock 
11,  Mount  Jackson  seven.  New  Market  13,  Harrisonburg  18, 
Mount  Crawford  eight,  Mount  Sidney  eight,  Staunton  10. 
Strasburg  is  an  ancient-looking  settlement  of  65  houses  of 
wood  and  shingles ;  in  lieu  of  which  they  might  better  have 
been  built  of  stone,  as  there  is  no  lack  hereabouts. 

Woodstock  (Reamer^s  tavern)  is  the  capital  of  Shenan- 
doah County,  Virginia;  has  four  places  for  religious  worship, 
Lutheran,  Presbyterian,  Episcopal,  Methodist;  a  stone  court- 
house, and  jail,  academy,  market:  population  600.  The  aspect 
here  improves ;  the  Blue  Ridge  is  on  our  left  or  east,  as  we 
go  south ;  another  ridge  on  the  north,  leaving  a  valley  10 
miles  wide,  of  rich  cultivated  aspect ;  the  houses  and  fences 
of  stone,  indicating  in  the  owners  comfort,  ease,  or  indepen-> 
dence. 

From  Woodstock  to  New  Market  is  a  rough  road ;  her* 
is  a  neat  Episcopal  church  and  100  houses.  The  road  con- 
tinues rather  rough  for  SO  miles  to  Harrisonburg,  that  has 


SUtunton. 


■*, 


417 


1,000  inhabitants;  the  houses  most  of  wood,  some  of  stone; 
the  country  well  cleared  and  cultivated,  but  hilly,  the  road 
passes  many  brooks  and  rapid  clear  torrents,  and  crosses  the 
Shenandoah  near  its  source. 

Travelers  taking  this  road  far  us  Harrison,  that  do  not 
desire  to  visit  Staunton  or  keep  on  by  the  main  valley  road, 
but  to  arrive  at  the  fashionable  springs  by  the  most  direct 
road,  they  can  save  12  miles  by  leaving  Staunton  to  the  cast, 
and  keeping  to  the  mail  road  to  tht-  warm  springs.  Har« 
rison  to  Frazer's  is  22  miles,  good  road  in  forest  or  open 
plain. 

Stauntoriy  Virginia,  the  capital  of  Ans^ustn  county,  is  en- 
vironed by  wood«clad  hills,  has  2,500  inhabitants,  three  places 
of  worship,  an  academy,  court-house,  and  jail ;  is  a  healthy 
site,  a  place  of  trade,  especially  as  u  flour  mart,  for  consider- 
able extent;  it  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of  this  great  agri- 
cultural state,  120  miles  west  of  Richmond,  near  one  of  the 
sources  of  the  James  River.  The  traveling  is  great  on  the 
road  that  radiates  from  this  to  the  succession  of  noted 
springs,  the  Warm  and  Hot,  the  Blowing  Cave,  the  White, 
Sweet,  Grey,  Red,  and  Salt  Sulphur  Springs,  all  being 
west  and  south-west  of  Staunton ;  also  Peter's  Mount  Lake, 
Parisbut^  Marshall's  Pillar,  and  the  Falls  on  New  River.  The 
Cumberland  Gap,  and  Grotto  with  the  Great  Tunnel^and  the 
Vast  Arch  in  Scott  County,  over  the  vale,  of  several  hundred 
feet  in  height,  width,  depth,  and  length,  is  so  gigantic  that, 
in  comparison,  the  famou^  "nd  well  known  Natural  Bridge  in 
Rockbridge  County  dwino  ^  to  insignificance  in  its  dimen- 
sions. It  is  near  Clinch  Rivt  ,  in  the  south-west  angle  of  the 
State,  between  Jonesville  ann  Estilville. 

From  Staunton,  through  Fair  field, 2'^  miles,  and  Lexington 
11  miles,  and  also  the  road  to  the  Natural  Bridge,  we  see 
many  neat  country  houses  of  the  Virginia  gentry.  Another 
road  may  be  taken,  through  Middlebrook  and  Brownsburg,  to 
Lexington;  but  this  also  in  places  is  rough  or  uncomfortable : 
distance  not  varying  far. 

Wier^s  Cave  is  18  miles  from  Staunton,  by  a  decent  coun- 
try road,  pervadin^a  hilly  woody  region,  underlaid  by  lime- 
stone, that  is  to  protrude  through  the  soil.  It  is  ren* 
dered  lively  jy  n  abundance  of  game,  clear  sparkling 
streams,  miSlp  ;, ,  The  road  to  Charlottesville,  32  miles,  is 
by  the  Rock  Jtj  iap,  over  the  Blue  Ridge,  with  scanty  evi- 
dences of  population,  wealth,  comfort,  or  improvement.  The 


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418 


CharloUettiUe  Uniternty. 


ascent  of  the  mountain  is  easy ;  the  view  from  its  summit 
commanding  o'er  hill  and  dale;  the  trees  are  oaka,  nuts,  oc 
juglans  in  variety,  firs,  larches,  acacias,  pines,  with  the  ad- 
mired rhododendrons  and  creeping  wild  vines. 

Charlottesville  University  is  placed  on  an  eminence,  form- 
ing a  conspicuous  object  from  afar,  having  a  view  of  the  Blue 
Bidge,  Monticello,  &c.  It  was  founded  in  1824,  and  was  the 
cherished  offspring  of  the  sage  of  Monticello  in  his  latter 
years.  The  buildings  consist  of  a  central  edifice,  with  a  pan- 
theon-shaped dome ;  the  ten  other  small  college  buildings  are 
arranged  on  each  side. 

From  the  hill  of  Monticello,  the  for-  er  abode  of  the  Yjr* 
ginia  philosopher,  we  are  sufficiently  ne  and  elevated  to  look 
down  and  watch  over  the  university,  or  to  penetrate  the  val- 
ley of  the  Rivanna,  and  the  low,  subsiding,  tamer  re^^ion :  to- 
ward the  sea  coast  the  view  is  boundless. 

It  is  65  miles  hence  to  Richmond.  The  road  for  a  Hew  miles 
is  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Rivanna,  that  soon  joins  the 
James ;  a  portion  of  the  road  is  hilly  or  over  causeways,  but 
it  improves  as  we  proceed ;  the  canal  and  river  being  in  sight 
for  the  latter  part  of  the  ride  over  a  loamy  or  sandy  region, 
with  but  few  settlements. 

'  To  revert  in  due  course  to  our  line  of  travel  in  the  interior 
valley  of  Virginia : — the  road  from  the  JNatural  Bridge  to  Fin- 
castle  34  miles,  then  west  to  Union,  of!ers  itself  across  the 
mountains,  or  from  Staunton  52  miles  to  the  Gap  in  the 
Short  Mount,  then  taking  the  springs  in  succession  to  the 
south-west  for  60  miles.  Tho  distances  on  the  main  central 
road,  south-west  from  Staunton,  through  Virginia  and  East 
Tennessee,  are  as  follows :  to  Greenville  12  miles,  Fairfield 
12,  Lexington  11,  Natural  Bridge  15,  Pattonsburg  10,  Fin- 
castle  12,  Amsterdam  four,  Salem  18,  Christicinsburg  27, 
Newbern  17,  Evanshaw  28,  Pleasant  Hill  15,  Seven  Mile 
Ford  18,  Abingdon  23,  Blountsville  24,  Kingsport  14,  Sur- 
geonville  17,  Roger's  10,  Bean's  Station  18,  Holsion,  on  the 
Rutledgc,  nine,  Blair's  Cross  Roads  12,  Knoxville  21. 

Taking  our  departure  from  Staunton,  in  a  westerly  direc- 
tion, we  arrive  in  three  or  four  hours*  ride  at  the  base  of  the 
Short  Mountain ;  here  we  intersect  the  road  from  the  north- 
east to  Borth-west,  and  pursue  the  latter  course,  that  in  due 
time  brings  us  to  the  Cow  Pasture  River,  a  head  branch  of  the 
James.  Cloverdalo  h  a  good  resting  or  refreshment-place.  To 
FrsEier'a  is  14  miles,  thence  to  Lange's  (a  rich  French  Hotel) 


^HP 


Warm  Springs'-^  Hot  Springs* 


^1» 


28;  the  road  is  recent,  but  toleroble ;  over  the  ridgei  it  is  fine, 
made  easy  of  ascent  by  skilful  grades  and  the  art  of  the  en- 
gineer, leading  from  the  planes  along  the  side  hills  by  exca* 
vatin^  the  soil  or  rock,  throwing  it  to  the  lower  side,  and 
building  up  a  wall  or  allowing  the  primitive  forest  trees  to 
remain,  forming  the  only  but  inefficient  skirt  or  xcreen  to 
veil  or  guard  on  the  side  towards  the  sheer  descent.  A  walk, 
up  or  down  these  exciting  places,  is  recommended  as  a  matter 
of  sectirity  or  safe  enjoyment. 

From  the  verge  of  the  heights,  in  crossing  the  diflferent 
gaps,  is  overlooked  a  vast  expanse  of  mountains,  vales,  rocks, 
forests,  scantily  intermixed  with  the  woodman's  hut  or  cabin, 
or  the  spacious  erections,  or  brood  of  small  tenements,  clus- 
tering about  the  vicinity  of  the  various  seats  of  hygeian  re- 
sort In  the  vales  below. 

The  steep  acute  angles  or  sudden  turns  of  the  road  are 
startling  in  a  rapid  descent  in  the  stage  or  coach,  as  the  least 
restiveness  in  the  horses  or  lack  of  skill  in  the  driver  leads 
to  fatal  results ;  yet  the  keen  excitement  this  momentarily 
produces  keeps  one  on  the  qui  vive— the  gentlemen  ready  for 
a  spring,  the  ladies  for  a  scream  of  alarm  or  admiration ;  yet 
after  the  danger  is  passed,  who  but  considers  these  adven- 
tures as  among  the  essential  ingredients  of  a  pleasant  summer 
excursion,  leaving  the  most  lasting  impressions  on  the  ima- 
gination. 

By  tracing  a  line  on  the  map  of  Virginia,  from  Bath,  in 
Morgan  county,  and  through  the  State  in  nearly  a  south-west 
course  to  Blountsville,  Tennessee,  most  of  the  celebrated 
springs  or  natural  curiosities  herein  described  or  referred  to 
may  be  readily  found,  as  being  near  or  bordering  it  within  50 
miles.  The  mineral  and  thermal  waters  are  found  usually 
on  the  western  slopes  of  the  ridges  or  in  elevated  valleys;  this 
is  the  case  with  the  warm  and  all  the  sulphur  springs,  that 
also  discharge  by  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  valley ;  the  exception 
to  this  rule  is  the  Hot  Spring,  that  is  but  five  miles  from  the 
Warm,  and  discbarges  on  the  east  slope  by  the  James  River. 

The  constant  temperature  of  the  Warm  Springs  is  96^,  or 
blood  heat ;  the  area,  114  feet  in  circumference,  is  transparent 
as  air;  the  whole  is  enclosed ;  there  are  dressing-rooms,  and 
istcps  to  descend  to  the  surface  to  any  depth  desired. 

The  Hot  Springs  are  reached  by  an  hour's  ride,  or  an  easy 
healthy  foot  excursion  over  the  intervening  mountain,  when 
the  cluster  of  cabins  and  the  hotel  are  seen  skirting  the  op- 


i 


430 


,ij. 


Sulphur  Springi* 


posing  «vood>^clad  elevation,  with  a  smiling  green  vale  adja« 
cent.  This  spring  is  of  the  high  temperature  of  106°.  It  is 
brought  in  a  tube  to  play  on  the  body  or  limbs  with  power- 
ful effect.  The  accommodations  are  ample.  This  is  in- 
creasing in  popularity. 

Leaving  the  Warm  Springs,  the  tavern  of  Shumates  is  14 
miles.  Plum's,  late  Callaghan's,  next  occurs,  18  miles  from 
White  Sulphur,  in  the  valley  of  the  Green  Brier,  a  branch  of 
the  Kenawha,  90  miles  long.  The  vicinity  of  this  spring  is 
obvious  to  the  olfactory  sense  from  its  Harrowg&te'like  of- 
fensive smell;  its  pure,  limpid  gushing  water  is  elegantly 
enclosed  in  slabs  of  white  marble  seven  feet  long,  five  feet 
wide,  and  five  deep,  as  it  bursts  out  of  the  rock  below.  Over 
it  is  a  dome  with  a  wooden  statue  of  the  goddess  of  health 
strangling  a  serpent,  or  preparing  to  dose  it  with  a  bowl  of 
the  medicinal  waters;  the  moral  of  this  maybe  surmised. 
The  tout  ensemble  of  this  watering-place  and  focus  of  fashion 
is  unique  and  striking;  the  exit  and  entrance  being  con- 
cealed by  over-lapping  hills  or  gorges  emanating  from  this 
small  but  secluded  vale  of  healing  fountains;  as  usual,  here 
is  a  main  edifice  with  several  rows  of  lodging-rooms  ;  some 
trees  and  formal  dusty  walks,  and  rides  of  great  attraction 
up  and  around  the  hills. 

To  Lewisburg,  nine  miles  west  of  White  Sulphur,  is  a  most 
commendable  ride  over  the  hills,  and  the  Green  Brier  River; 
the  road  good,  redolent  of  beauty  and  attraction  in  its 
scenery.  If  the  courts  are  in  session,  perhaps  some  of  the 
eloquent  members  of  the  Virginia  Bar  may  be  heard.  In  eight 
miles  are  the  Falls  of  the  New  River,  near  the  base  of  the 
White  Top  and  Flat  Mountains,  of  exceeding  height  and 
beauty. 

From  the  White  Sulphur  to  Sweet  Spring  is  only  eight 
miles  direct,  but  16  by  the  crooked  road  over  the  principal 
dividing  ridge  of  the  Alleghanies,  or  back-bone  of  the  United 
States ;  its  utmost  crest  is  gradually  and  easily  attained.  This 
is  on  the  identical  chain  as  the  Hot  Spring  described.  The 
Sweet  Spring  throws  out  a  heavy  volume  of  water  of  70^ 
temperature.  This  has  been  frequented  many  years,  as  seen 
I  at  once  by  the  time-worn  aspect  of  the  hamlet. 

From  the  Sweet  Spring  the  road  leads  to  Union,  in  Mon- 
roe County ;  then  past  the  Organ  Cave  to  the  Salt  Sulphur, 
24  miles  from  White  Sulphur,  by  a  road  in  and  along  the 
channel  of  a  stony  creek,  through  forest  and  wild  dell.    The 


.»•'♦■ 


Snlphur  Spring»» 


411 


StU  Sulphur  is  on  the  west  or  fashionable  slope  of  a  noun* 
tain,  similar  to  the  Warm  and  White  Sulphur.  Its  qualitiea 
are  purgative;  the  table  is  most  liberal!/  furnished;  the 
dining-hali  airy,  lofty,  and  pleasantly  fanned  in  southern 
style.  Near  by  is  an  auxiliary  Sweet  Sulphur  Spring.  Ac« 
commodations  for  250. 

Hence  to  Red  Sulphur  is  IS  miles,  in  part  on  a  narrow 
roof-iike  ridge,  looking  down  on  either  side  into  a  deep 
plunging  vale  far  beneath ;  then  taking  to  the  level  of  a  creek, 
and  following  it  some  miles  to  the  Red  Sulphur,  one  of  the 
choice  retreats  of  the  chain  of  wonderful  Sulphur  fountains, 
here  seen  in  a  well  six  by  five,  and  four  deep,  cased  in  mar- 
ble, temperature  54*^.  Its  qualities  are  diuretic  and  aperient. 
The  pink  colored  tinge  of  the  water  is  the  cause  of  the  name 
of  this  spring.  There  are  three  hotels  and  three  rows  of 
cabins. 

The  Qr<xif  Sulphur  Spring  is  nine  miles  south-west  of  the 
foregoing  Red  Sulphur,  bordering  on  Monroe  and  Giles  Coun- 
ties, 20  from  Salt  Sulphur;  the  surrounding  country  broken 
by  hills  and  vales;  the  lofty  continuous  range  of  Peter's 
Mountain  rises  within  two  miles,  severed  here  by  the  New 
River  breaking  through  the  chain  to  the  west,  giving  several 
striking  views,  with  instructive  geological  sections. 

The  Gray  Sulphur  waters  issue  from  a  vertical  seam  in  a 
hard  slate  rock,  that  has  been  enlarged  to  form  a  reservoir; 
its  medical  qualities  are  anti-dyspeptic,  its  temperature  67°. 
At  times  a  bluish  gray  precipitate  floats  in  veins  like  blue 
smoke  in  the  clear  air  after  a  shower ;  no  deposit  is  found  on 
the  rock. 

Tho  mysterious  pond  on  Peter's  Mountain  is  ofrecent  ori- 
gin ;  the  small  rivulet  that  once  was  absorbed  in  some  crevice 
that  has  been  filled  up  by  decay  of  leaves  and  trees  in  the 
hollow,  has  caused  the  pond  to  accumulate  to  a  considierable 
depth,  and  to  submerge  tall  trees  in  its  clear,  cold  waters, 
that  are  fresh,  not  salt,  as  asserted. 

In  the  event  of  continuing  on  in  the  great  Virginia  valley 
at  Parivburg,  where  the  New  River  escapes  through  the  gaps 
in  Peter's  Mountain,  the  road  still  adheres  for  40  miles  to  the 
valley  of  the  New  River  to  Newbern,  in  a  course  south  of 
east,  when  it  there  curves  around  again  to  the  south-west, 
leaving  the  aforesaid  valley,  and  crossing  in  28  miles  to 
Evansham,  in  Wythe  county,  and  Mount  Airy,  being  on  the 
highest  part  of  the  valley  that  separates  the  waters  of  Virginia 

36 


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mm 


I  I 


in 


Grand  Interior  Route  by  rail-road,  SfC, 


and  Tenneiiee,  at  the  remotest  sources  of  the  Holston,  and 
d9wn  its  valley  our  road  continues  to  BlountsviUe,  that  also 
being  the  nearest  point  to  diverge  to  the  north- west  to  visit 
the  Great  Tunnel  or  Jfatural  Bridge,  in  Scott  county ;  this  is 
R  vaulted  passage  of  600  feet,  under  a  mass  of  limestone  500 
or  600  feet  high,  that  links  two  opposite  hills  of  the  same 
height,  the  excavation  being  of  a  wmding  form,  with  a  run  of 
water  occupying  the  floor ;  we  have  not  seen  any  exact  mea- 
aurement ;  its  proportions  are  said  to  be  gigantic,  overwhelm- 
ing the  beholder  in  astonishment. 


Orand  Interior  Route  by  rail*road  from 
Baltimore  to  Frederick)  thence  by  the 
State  macadamized  road  to  Cumber- 
land)  and  by  the  National  Road  to 
WheeliuiTf  on  the  Ohio  River* 

Until  the  State  of  Pennsylvania  completes  the  rail-road 
over  the  Alleghanies  from  Ghambersburgh  to  Pittsburgh  or 
Wheeling,  (see  page  367)  the  Maryland  line  will  have  the 
preference,  merely  ft'om  the  difference  in  the  distance,  about 
^  miles ;  but  when  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  route  is  both 
straightened  and  improved  to  Frederick,  by  avoiding  inclined 
planes,  and  laying  and  extending  the  iron  tracks  over  the 
barriers  of  her  gigantic  mountains  to  the  banks  of  the  Ohio 
at  Wheeling,  as  now  under  contract  and  in  rapid  progress 
to  maturity,  this  will  enable  travelers  with  ease  to  accom- 
plish in  one  day,  or  less,  what  now  requires  about  three  of 
constant  travel,  at  risk  of  life  both  day  and  night. 

Seats  or  tickets  for  the  entire  route  cost  from  10  to  13  or 
15  dollars,  as  the  season,  state  of  the  roacis,  or  quantity  of 
travelers  may  prevail  at  the  time.  At  present  the  steam 
cars  are  only  used  to  Frederick,  60  miles;  then  by  post 
coaches  to  Middletown,  eight  miles,  Boonesboro'  eight,  Ha< 
gerstown  wine,  Clear  Spring  11,  Hancock  13,  Bevansvilie  17, 
Flintstone  10,  Cumberland  13,  Frostburg  10,  Little  Crossing 
10,  Somerfield,  in  Pennsylvania,  19,  Union  Town  21,  Browns- 
ville 13,  Bealsville  eight,  Hillsboro'  three,  Washington  11, 
Claysville  11,  West  Alexandria  six,  Triadclphia,  Virginia,  10, 
Whwling  nine.     >,,   „,  ,,v.  •  v •.....•■  .i ■  >- ,--;r-^  -<...- r^,  -■   •' 


%. 


>  \ 


Carrolton  Viaduct. 


423 


flio 

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As  tho  most  expensive  portion  of  this  rail-road  occura 
within  20  miles  of  tho  city,  those  persons  desirous  of  seeing 
the  Carrolton  and  Thomas  Viaducts,  the  great  embankments, 
spacious  culrerts,  &c.  ns  exhibited  on  this  line,  that  has  the 
merit  of  taking  the  lead  of  all  others  as  to  the  magnitude  or 
importance  of  the  undertaking  at  that  period  (1828^  when 
it  was  commenced,  should,  if  practicable,  make  a  special  trip, 
to  devote  the  requisite  time  or  minute  attention  required  for 
the  satisfactory  examination  of  the  various  details;  otherwise 
the  transient,  unsatisfactory  glance  acquired  when  the  train 
passes  is  but  momentary,  and  inadequate  to  acquire  that  dis- 
tinct or  vivid  impression  justly  demanded.  When  all  is  ad- 
justed, moving  from  the  de|)6tin  Pratt-street  slowly  through 
'the  city  and  suburbs,  until  the  cars  are  secured  to  receive  the 
impulse  of  the  steam-power,  that  soon  gives  a  fearful  veloci- 
ty, we  are  fairly  on  the  way  to  the  interior. 

Tho  Carrolton  Viaduct^  a  mile  from  the  city,  crossing 
Gwynn's  Falls,  is  312  feet  long,  63  feet  high,  26  wide;  the 
principal  arch  80  feet  span,  47  above  the  water;  the  whole 
structure  is  of  the  most  magnificent,  massive,  durable  de- 
scription, built  of  dressed  granite.  It  was  named  after  the 
oldest  surviving  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence 
of  the  United  States  in  1776,  Charles  Carroll,  under  whose 
auspices  this  work  was  opened  with  much  ceremony. 

The  Great  Embankment  at  Gadsby's  Run,  five  miles  from 
Baltimore,  is  nearly  a  mile  in  length  ;  its  greatest  elevation 
66  feet ;  the  viaduct  over  the  same  stream  is  an  arch  built,  in 
a  massive  style,  of  granite.  In  passing  over  this  stupendous 
embankment  we  lose  the  distant  view  of  this  city  of  domes, 
towers,  and  monuments,  and  for  the  pre^-ent  bestow  our  at- 
tention on  the  scenes  rapidly  passing  on  each  side,  that  soon 
display  to  our  view  the  branch  rail-road,  that  here  diverges 
from  our  route,  as  it  proceeds  to  the  citjr  of  Washington,  30 
tniles  to  the  south-west,  across  the  beautiful  l%omas  viaduetf 
one  of  the  most  strJVing  erections  on  the  entire  line,  seen  to 
infinite  advantage  and  with  admiration  as  it  spans  the  vale 
of  the  Patapsco,  10  miles  from  Baltimore,  where  a  sudden 
bend  to  our  right  in  a  north-west  direction  enables  us  for  a 
moment  to  behold  the  graceful  viaduct  as  we  leave  it  on  our 
left,  and  plunge  into  the  lovely  valley  of  the  Patapsco,  that 
for  a  few  miles  rivets  our  admiration  with  its  richly  wooded 
banks  rising  on  either  side  to  a  towering  elevation,  appa 
ren'.ly  of  several  hundred  feet.  ■■-  .-^■■■r-^^r^..:^,',-*- 


(   f 


4t4 


Patapteo  Valley^ 


We  proceed  up  the  charming  Patapico  Valley,  skirting 
with  increased  velocity  near  the  foot  of  the  lofiy  hill,  that 
has  been  blasted  to  alloiv  grudgingly  a  scanty  road-way  to 
be  preserved,  barely  adequate  to  prevent  the  cars  from  com- 
ing in  collision  with  the  ragged  spurs  or  projections,  that  by 
their  sharp  angles  are  almost  brushed  within  a  hair's  breadth 
as  the  train  is  urged  madly  on,  apparently,  in  its  frightful  ca- 
reer of  most  alarming  ppeed,  followivug  a  tortuous  course, 
that  is  too  dangerous  to  permit  the  admiration  of  the  features 
of  the  picturesque  to  intrude. 

We  continue  on  embosomed  among  lofty  hills,  in  proximi- 
ty to  the  brawling  turbuleM'  stream  that  is  crossed  to  the 
south  side  before  arriving  at  the  watering  station  at  £llicott*8 
mills.  The  series  of  milis  and  snug  cottages  nestled  in  this 
exquisite  valley,  the  succession  of  rapids,  chutes,  tumbling 
foaming  waters,  the  changing  features,  receives  the  unquali- 
fied admiration  of  travelers.  The  citizens  of  Baltimore  can 
here  revel  amid  the  refreshing  sights  of  this  fairy  creation. 
Foreigners  and  visiters  should  not  omit  to  behold  this  wild, 
varied,  and  most  delightful  scenery.  At  13  miles  from  the 
city  are  many  large  manufactories  and  flouring  establish- 
ments near  a  commodious  hotel ;  and  several  hours  may  here 
be  enjoyed,  romping  and  ruralizing,  scrambling  up  the  wind- 
ing paths  to  a  giddy  height,  and  wandering  amongst  fantas- 
tic rocks  overhanging  the  road  and  river  beneath  ;  near  by 
is  the  Paterson  Viaduct^  that  is  constructed  of  huge  blocks 
of  granite,  has  four  arches,  besides  wings  and  abutments  ;  it 
is  375  feet  long. 

The  surface  of  the  country  between  the  valley  of  the  Pa- 
tapsco  and  Frederick  is  satisfactory:  the  land  is  good,  farms 
well  cultivated,  the  houses  comfortable  or  handsome,  with 
an  aspect  of  long  settlement.  The  cuts  along  the  railroad 
occasionally  expose  masses  of  that  pudding-stone,  as  seen  in 
a  polished  state  in  the  handsome  columns  of  the  chamber  of 
the  House  of  Representatives  at  Washington. 

As  the  valley  of  the  Patapsco  is  ascended  gradually,  but 
insensibly  at  the  rate  of  18  feet  to  the  mile,  (see  page  412) 
ihe  stream  lessens  in  volume  and  force,  or  is  for  a  time  lost  to 
the  view,  being  shrouded  by  impending  trees  or  thick  shrub- 
bery; in  dashing  through  and  under  these  o'er  arching,  ver- 
dant passages,  the  fiery  smoking  engine  vomits  from  its 
chimney  a  galaxy  of  sparks  with  lurid  flames  as  it  impetu- 
ously darts  under  the  low  branches  of  the  woods  into  the 


;  no;^, 


Frederick. 


435 


deep  shadows  of  the  forest,  transiently  lighting  up  the  sombre 
gloom  with  the  sudden  glare  of  an  illumination. 

So  abrupt  are  the  curves,  the  radius  of  the  road  so  adjust- 
ed in  many  places,  that  during  the  wriggling  progress  of  a 
long  train,  winding  like  the  path  of  a  snake  over  ihe  surface 
of  the  ground,  the  passenger  seated  in  the  rear  car  is  fearful 
of  the  dangerous  consequences  momently  threatened  if  the 
locomotive  engine  should  swerve  from  the  track ;  the  most 
rueful  accidents  of  that  nature  are  liable  to  ensue  on  such 
ill-made  meandering  rail- ways. 

K  The  rapid  diminution  of  the  stream  as  we  trace  along  its 
banks  towards  Parr's  Spring  and  Ridge  is  evident  to  the  eye 
of  the  most  careless  observer;  the  dividing  ridge  formerly 
was  passed  by  horse-power,  but  recent  improvements  have 
obviated  this  detention  ;  the  entire  distance  from  the  city  of 
Baltimore  to  Frederick  is  performed  in  four  to  five  hours. 
This  is  the  capital  of  Frederick  County;  its  population  is 
above  7|000;  it  has  seven  or  eight  places  of  public  worship, 
a  court-house,  market,  jnil,  and  academy ;  its  houses  of  the 
better  class  are  of  stone  or  brick ;  the  streets  are  regular,  its 
situation  pleasant ;  it  is  an  important  flour  mart  or  place  of 
general  trade  for  a  certain  district  of  rich  agricultural  coun* 
try  ;  the  site  is  healthy,  being  near  the  base  of  the  first  ranges 
of  mountains  that  are  encountered  on  leaving  this  settlement. 
It  is  47  miles  from  Baltimore,  44  from  Washington.  The 
branch  rail-road  to  Harper's  Ferry  on  the  Potomac  is  passed 
to  the  left  just  before  arriving  here. 

Stages  or  cars  are  found  in  readiness,  time  only  barely 
allowed  to  snatch  a  hasty  meal,  ere  the  startling  sound  '*  The 
stage  is  waiting,  gentlemen,"  hurries  every  one  away  grum- 
bling or  dissatisfied  ;  but  all  is  soon  forgotten,  both  host  or 
dinner,  as  the  Gatoctin  Mountain,  with  the  bold  majestic  blue 
rid^e,  here  called  unmeaningly  the  South  Mountam,  rises  in 
all  Its  glory  before  the  traveler,  as  one  of  the  grand,  ever- 
lasting barriers  of  this  continent. 

The  next  27  miles  to  Hagarstown  is  amidst  a  luxuriant, 
fertile  country  in  the  heart  of  Maryland,  in  the  County  of 
Washington,  and  nearly  parallel  with  the  Potomac  River  and 
the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal,  that  subsequently  is  side 
by  side  for  several  miles  before  arriving  at  Hancock^s  TotDti. 
The  underlying  strata  of  blue  limestone  pervades  this  dis- 
trict of  country,  that  sends  annually  to  Baltimore  more  than 
100,000  barrels  of  the  best  flour. 

36* 


1 

^ 


\i 


\.  I  i 


4S6 


HdgartUmn--Haneo€kitoum. 


The  road  from  Frederick  to  Cumberland  ii  an  excellent 
macadamized  turnpike,  the  surface  material  bein^  for  more 
than  60  miles  the  same  kind  uf  blue  limestone.  58  miles  of 
this  part  of  the  road  was  ordered  bj  the  Legislature  of  Mary  • 
land  to  be  made  by  the  banks  in  Baltimore  and  three  other 
baoki  in  the  western  districts  of  that  Stale,  on  the  same  con- 
itruction  as  the  national  road,  as  a  condition  of  the  renewal 
of  their  charters  in  1814 ;  the  average  cost  was  over  $8,000 
a  mile,  the  banks  being  permitted  to  establish  tojl-jatea. 

Hagarstown  la  the  county  seat  of  the  County  of  Washing- 
ton, 71  miles  from  Baltimore,  63  from  Washington,  has 
several  churches,  a  court  house,  jail,  market,  a  bank ;  most  of 
the  buildingp  are  of  a  substantial  character,  of  brick  or  stone ; 
near  it,  on  Antietam  Creek,  are  several  mills.  Its  trade  is 
considerable,  its  vicinity  fertile ;  population  over  3,000. 

From  Hagarstown  to  Williamsport  is  nine  miles  in  a  south- 
west direction  to  the  Potomac  River,  thence  crossing  the 
Conocoeheague  Creek,  the  road  for  27  miles  is  along  the 
north  side  of  the  Potomac  River,  with  the  Chesapeake  and 
Ohio  Canal  in  view  to  Hancockstown,*  where  Pennsylvania 
and  Virginia  (a  i.Trrow  part  of  Maryland  intervening)  ap- 
proach within  three  miles.  The  Tusearora  Mountain  cem- 
presses  on  the  north  side  of  the  river  close  upon  Hancock, 
and  admits  but  a  narrow  space  for  the  windings  or  acclivities 
of  the  road  ;  the  south  bank  of  the  Potomac  appears  dense- 
ly and  beautifully  wooded,  and  is  pretitnted  in  all  its  attrac- 
tions to  the  spectator. 

From  HancockstowQ  to  Cumberland  is  39  long  miles,  that 
are  consumed  in  passing  over  several  mountain  ridgea  of 
■tupendous  magnitude,  such  as  Sideling  Hill,  Rugged  and 
EviWs  JVfoutttoin,  and  others,  with  the  intervening  valleys, 
hills,  or  plains  ;  here  will  be  enjoyed  all  the  picturesque  or 
striking  features  of  the  Alleghanien  ;  travelers  among  them 
in  the  western  Counties  of  Pennsylvania,  Maryland,  or  Vir- 
ginia, will  notice  the  manner  the  streams  find  their  way  amid 
the  parallel  ridges  that  extend  from  north-east  to  sooth-west, 
that  are  parted  to  let  the  small  streams  pass,  that  after  find- 

:  *  Six  miles  tVom  Hancock,  on  the  opposite  south  side  of  the  Potomae, 
is  Bath,  with  its  warm  waters,  good  hotels,  shady,  agreeable  walks,  or 
rides  in  a  hilly,  romantic  tract,  admired  by  the  gentry  of  the  vicinity, 
and  the  Baltimoreans.  The  accommodations  ar^  said  to  be  good.  It  is 
36  miles  to  Winchester,  with  a  small  tavern  in  18  miles  on  an  elevation, 
with  a  dense  forest  surrounding,  tempting  the  traveler  to  repose. 


/*v<iwitii«      Cumberland.     .  l^rR 


iV 


ing^  their  way  quietly  along^  the  bases  of  the  mountains  in 
ipr  cate  windings,  unite  riven  that  have  a  plight  declivity  to 
the  g^eheral  level  of  the  plain  ;  the  absence  of  lakes  or  ponds 
ie  also  a  peculiarity ;  large  gushing  sprini^s  or  fountains  arc 
but  seldom  witnessed. 

The  moment  the  wheels  of  the  carriage  strike  the  great 
national  road  at  Cumberland,  on  the  Potomac  River,  in  AII«> 
|!h&ny  County,  Maryland,  the  traveler  is  impressed  with  the 
fact  that  he  is  on  the  Simplon  of  America,  that,  with  its  sur- 
face of  iron-like  solidity,  unites  in  bonds  of  amity,  peace,  and 
commerce  the  social  intercourse  with  the  family  interests  of 
the  great  communities  of  the  States  on  both  sides  of  the 
monntain  border. 

The  location  or  line  of  this  road  is  creditable  to  the  United 
States  engineers  :  the  contour  is  admirable :  to  geoloj^ists  it 
roust  be  interesting,  as  it  presents  a  profile  section  across  the 
entire  range  of  Alleghanies,  clinginar  on  one  side  to  the 
mountains  that  in  some  places  rise  fnr  above  the  traveler, 
while  on  the  other  is  a  dangerous  precipice,  ready  to  engulf 
the  unwary  traveler  that  approaches  its  brink. 

In  many  places  on  the  Savage  Mountain  the  side  presents 
a  mural  front  of  sand  stone  in  layers,  resembling  regular 
masonry,  and  in  parts  the  summit  appears  to  be  actually 
flagged  with  sand-stone;  some  of  the  slabs  seem  as  true  as  if 
dressed  for  pavements  in  cities:  they  are  of  granular  quartz, 
strongly  coherent,  of  a  light  pearl  color,  that  when  pulverized 
is  nearly  as  white  as  snow. 

There  are  extensive  settlements  along  the  whole  line  of 
the  road ;  not  a  tract  of  table  land,  gentle  slope,  valley,  or 
wide  glen,  but  is  under  cultivation.  Vast  quantities  of  bitu- 
minous coal  of  the  best  quality  are  on  the  banks  of  the 
Yougheogeny  and  Moftongahela  Rivera,  and  the  grandeur  of 
the  natural  scenery  in  crossing  from  Baltimore  to  the  Ohio 
will  always  be  a  source  of  gratification  to  the  naturalist, 
the  tourist,  and  to  those  that  admire  the  wild  scenes  of  our 
country. 

Cumberland^  the  county  seat  of  A''eghany  county,  Mary- 
land, is  on  the  Potomac,  at  the  junction  of  Will's  Creek,  that 
comes  from  the  north  alonsr  the  base  of  Will's  Mountain. 
148  miles  from  Baltimore,  155  from  Washington.  It  has  three 
churches,  one  each  for  Catholics,  Methodists,  Lutherans;  also 
a  court>house,jail,  market,  and  a  bank;  inexhaustible  beds  of 
capital  bituminous  coal  are  near  it,  ready  to  be  transported 


< 


I 


*  » 


428 


Biuk  Bone  or  Savage  Mountain, 


down  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal  to  tide-water  in  the 
district  of  Columbia;  these  mines  are  owned  by  eastern 
capitalists,  and  destined  soon  to  be  introduced  in  the  Atlan- 
tic market.  There  were  formerly  300  houses  in  this  place, 
but  in  1833  a  portion  of  them  were  destroyed  by  fire. 

We  here  take  leave  of  the  Potomac  and  the  streams  run- 
ning to  the  esstern  coast,  as  the  next  waters  encountered  in 
our  western  course  will  be  those  of  the  Yougheogeny  and 
Monongahela,  running  northerly,  and  forming  tributaries  of 
the  Ohio  at  Pittsburgh.  We  have  now  to  surmount  the 
grei^  dividing  ridge  or  Back  Bone  Mountain  that  separates 
here  the  eastern  fVom  the  western  system  of  rivers. 

On  leaving  Cumberland,  the  great  National  Road  soon 
enters  on  an  ascent  that  follows  the  gorge  or  narrowSf  on 
crossing  the  capital  bridge  over  Will's  Creek,  (a  fair  speci- 
men of  the  excellent  masonry  of  those  structure*  on  this  en- 
tire road.) 

The  Back  Bone  or  Savage  Mountain  is  passed  at  a  gap  or 
depression  with  ease  and  security  ;  the  view  when  at  the  sum- 
mit, 3,000  feet  above  tide,  is  truly  grand,  and  when  on  the  en- 
suing ranges,  the  retrospective  view  of  this  towering  sierra  is 
of  infinite  sublimity. 

The  distances  as  we  proceed  are,  to  Mount  Pleasant  10 
miles,  thence  to  Petersburg  over  the  Pennsylvania  line  '2b 
miles  of  rough-looking  country ;  four  miles  beyond  we  are  at 
Smithfield  on  the  Yougheogeny  River,  thence  to  Union  is  21 
miles,  and  12  more  brings  us  to  BrownswiUe  on  the  Monon- 
gahela,  from  whence,  in  a  full  stage  of  water,  large  boats  that 
are  built  here  are  sent  60  miles  down  to  Pittsburgh,  or  ply  on 
the  Ohio  or  Mississippi.  To  Centreville  is  five  miles,  Beal's- 
▼ille  three,  Hillsboro  three,  Washington  12,  Martinsburg  five, 
Claysville  four,  West  Alexandria  six,  thence  we  descend  n 
hill  rapidly  and  continue  along  the  valley  of  Wheeling  Creek 
16  miles  to  Wheeling. 

>  Several  miles  before  entering  the  city,  at  the  cross  roads 
or  junction  of  two  branches  of  ttie  creek,  is  a  pedestal  with  a 
figure  of  Fame,  and  tablets  descriptive  of  the  national  road, 
its  builders,  or  projectors.  From  this  point  the  road  ascends 
for  five  miles  to  the  sharp  summit  of  the  hill  that  overlooks 
the  smoky  city  below.  The  manner  in  which  the  road  is  cut 
out  of  the  solid  limestone  rock,  that  rises  steeply  on  one  side, 
and  the  parapet  that  defends  it  an  the  other,  with  the  heavy 
wall  built  up  from  the  depth  below,  exhibits  the  skill  of  the 


Inland  Route  from  Baltimore  to  New  Orleans.        499 

«Qgineer  and  cf  the  workmen  engaged  in  the  construction, 
and  the  lavish  expenditure  of  the  national  trnaiure  bestowed 
upon  this  road  in  this  spct,  and  also  on  tho  whole  route,  in  a 
•eries  of  years,  from  1802,  amounting  in  the  aggregate  to  two 
or  three  millions  of  dollars.  This  road  is  now  m  the  posses- 
■ion  of  the  States  of  Maryland,  Pennsylvania,  and  Virginia, 
with  power  to  establish  gates  and  receive  toils,  tf^  keep  the 
road  in  repair.  ,  _,  ..,  ,  ^,„ 

Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal. 

It  begins  at  Georgetown,  at  the  head  of  tide,  and  is  to  ter- 
minate on  the  Ohio  at  the  moui'h  of  Wheeling  Creek,  oi  at 
Pittsburgh,  to  be  60  to  80  feei  wide  at  top,  50  tieet  at  bottom, 
six  to  seven  feet  deep — 341  miles  Hong — to  have  branches  to 
Alexandria,  to  the  Navy-Yard,  and  Baltimore — chartered  by 
Virginia,  Maryland,  and  Congress  in  1824-5 — commeneed 
■n  1828— finished  to  Cumberland,  on  the  Potomac.  Its  (inai 
completion  is  very  distant.    ,, ,,     .    .  ,  ,  , 


Main  Southern  inland  Route  from  Balti- 
more or  l¥ashfinirton  through  Virginia 
and  the  Carolinas,  Georgia  and  Alaba- 
ma to  Montgomery,  Pensacola»  Iflobile, 
and  Ncur  Orleans. 


'.M,; 


The  route  down  the  Chesapeake  by  steam-boat,  from  Bal- 
timore to  Norfolk,  thence  to  Richmond,  has  been  given,  (see 
page  403,)  but  as  many  travelers  hav^.  a  strong  aversion  to  any 
water  conveyance,  from  the  casualties  felt  or  feared,  and 
also  desiring  to  see  the  inland  towns,  setllameRts,  or  cities, 
manners,  customs,  et-cetera,  as  now  perfected  or  perma- 
nently fixed  for  several  hundred  miles  south  of  Fredericks- 
burgh,  th«y  will  find  such  a  route  hero  detailed. 
^  As  to  the  exact  time  required  by  tho  routes  respectively, 
either  from  Baltimore  or  Washington,  to  the  place  of  inter- 
section of  the  rail-roads  from  the  north  and  east  at  the 
Roanoke  River  at  Weldon,  there  cannot  be  much  variation 
in  time  ov  expense ;  being  by  steam-boat  tc  Norfolk,  and  rail- 
road via  Portsmouth   to  Weldon  287  miles,  20  hours  to 


I   i 


430 


Central  Route  to  ike  Virginia  Springe,  8fe. 


Norfolk,  Tare  $8  00,  or  up  to  Richmond  by  steamboat,  fiire 
$4  00.  On  the  inland  route  it  is  264  milea ;  the  first  60  being 
by  steam>boat  from  Washington,  down  past  Alexandria  and 
IVlount  Vernon,  on  the  Potomac  River  to  the  landing  at  the 
Potomac  Creek,  thence  by  rail-road  from  Fredericksburg  to 
Weldon  on  the  Roanoke,  150  miles.  Expense  of  rail-ruad 
and  steam-boat  $13  00,  (fare  $2  00,  Baltimore  to  Washing- 
ton, and  40  miles  distance  to  be  added.) 

As  to  the  fatigue  incurred  on  the  two  routes,  there  is  no 
loss  of  sleep  on  the  Chesapeake,  or  up  tho  James  River  to 
Richmond.  The  coast  down  the  bay  is  low  and  tame,  almost 
losing  sight  of  the  shore,  or  only  beholding  it  from  point  tn 
point,  or  as  a  line  of  trees  peering  above  the  briny  flood,  until 
Hearing  the  fortifications  in  the  lower  part  of  the  bay,  at  old 
Point  Uomfort,  and  the  Rip  Raps,  that  it  is  desirable  to  view 
as  military  positions  of  the  utmost  importance. 

By  the  route  down  the  Potomac,  four  hours'  sleep  may  per- 
haps be  enjoyed,  with  as  much  dozing  in  the  cars  as  may  hrt 
agreeable  from  Fredericksburg  to  Richmond,  or  Petersburg 
to  the  Roanoke.  Take  care,  in  the  outset,  of  all  impositions 
from  agents  or  scouts  acting  for  opposite  lines,  either  in  Bal- 
timore or  Washington;  and  especially  to  make  all  possible 
inquiry  trom  the  best  sources ;  and  in  paying  the  fare  re- 
serve the  privilege  of  having  it  refunded,  if  desiring  to  tarry 
on  tho  way,  or  else  pay  only  from  town  to  town,  or  by  short 
stations,  so  as  not  to  be  hurried  past  places  of  importance, 
exciting  useless  regret  or  chagrin. 

Passengers  from  the  north  leave  Washington  city  every 
evening  at  half-past  six  o'clock  in  the  steam-boat  for  Fre- 
dericksburg, arrive  in  six  hours;  thence  by  the  rail-road  cars, 
via  Junction  to  Louisa  Court  House,  and  by  coach  to  Char- 
lottesville. Arrive  at  the  Junction  by  four  o'clock  A.  M.  rest 
four  haunt  till  eight  o^cloek  A.  M.  and  arrive  at  Charlottesville 
titxt  morning  at  three  o^ clock ,'  at  Staunton  by  11  o'clock  the 
same  rooming,  and  proceed  in  tho  line  of  Messrs.  Porter  and 
Boyd  to  Cloverdaie  the  samo  day ;  breakfast  tho  next  morn- 
ing at  the  Warm  Springs,  arrive  et  the  Hot  Springs  the  samo 
morning  about  11  o'clock,  and  at  the  White  Sulphur  Springs 
early  in  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day.  Passages  may  be 
taken  to  Charlottesville  on  board  the  steam-boat,  or  at  the 
rniUroad  dep6t,  Fredericksburg. 

From  the  end  of  tho  rail-road  to  Charlottesville  is  26  miles. 


Prgdericktburg, 


431 


Two  dtily  tind  a  tri-weekly  line  of  itage^coachef  run  hence 
to  the  ipringi. 


Central  Route  to  the  Virginia  Sprtags. 

From  Frederickiburg  to  Lynchburr,  via  Richmond,  tho^ 
fare  paid  through  is  $12  00,  or  $9  60  from  the  latter. 

Fredericksburg  (opposite  Falmouth,  on  the  north  bank) 
has  3,500  inhabitants,  is  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Rap- 
pahannock River,  on  elevated  ground,  very  conspicuous, 
striking  the  traveler  from  the  north  as  having  the  aspect 
of  an  eastern  city  from  the  neatness  of  the  streets,  the 
brick  buildings,  gardens,  with  the  high  cultivation  seen  in 
the  town  and  suburbs.  It  is  near  the  head  of  navigation,  110 
miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river;  in  a  rich  fertile,  well  cul- 
tivated country,  famous  for  its  crops  of  corn,  flour,  tobacco, 
or  other  produce,  here  exported  to  the  value  Of  four  millions 
of  dollars  a  year.  It  has  a  court-house  and  jail,  being  the 
capital  of  Spotsylvania  County;  there  are  two  banks,  an 
academy,  and  several  churches;  one  of  them  contains  a 
handdome  monument  to  the  memory  of  the  *'  Mother  of 
Washington."  This  is  the  northern  neck  of  Virginia,  between 
the  Potomac  and  Rappahannock ;  it  has  produced  many  dis- 
tinguished  men. 

Leaving  Fredericksburg,  the  traveler  enters  upon  the  grand 
raiZ-roadand  central  route  through  Virginia  ana  North  Caro- 
lina, and  is  smoothly  whirled  along  at  his  ease,  making  south 
latitude  at  the  rate  of  10  to  15  miles  an  hour,  passing  in  20 
miles  a  corner  of  Spotsylvania  and  Caroline  Counties,  and 
several  head  branches  of  the  Mattahony,  that  falls  into  York 
River  50  miles  south-east.  Towards  the  Potomac  River  the 
country  is  flat  and  sandy,  with  a  dreary  aspect  for  miles  of 
extensive  plains  and  worn-out  fields,  exhausted  by  tobacco, 
overrun  with  sedge  of  a  green  or  yellow  color,  dotted  with 
pine  and  cedar  trees  by  way  of  contrast.  As  we  proceed 
south,  we  gradually  And  ourselves  penetrating  the  region  of 
pines,  that  almost  exclusively  holds  possession  of  the  sea- 
bordering  plain  of  Virginia  and  the  Carolinas.  Leaving 
Caroline,  we  cross  the  Pamunkey,  or  North  Anna,  that  also 
unites  with  the  York  at  the  confluence  of  the  Mattahoney, 
««d  are  in  Hanover  County  ;  thence  across  the  Chickabema- 


m 


^fr^r  Riclimtmi* 


nia,  a  branch  of  the  James  River,  when  we  are  in  Henricff 
County,  and  in  eight  miles  further  at  the  city  of  Richmond, 
near  the  falls  on  the  James  River  at  the  head  of  tide,  150 
miles  above  its  mouth,  or  60  above  City  Point. 

At  Richmond,  Virginia,  the  James  at  Fredericksburg,  the 
Rappahannock  at  Petersburgh,  the  Appomattox  and  the 
Roanoke  at  and  above  Weldon,  have  falls  or  rapids  that  are 
but  partially  used,  in  comparison  with  the  heavy  water  power 
that  may  be  commanded  at  these  several  points,  and  that  will 
sooner  or  later  be  subservient  to  the  arts,  the  industry,  and 
the  manufactures  of  a  great  and  populous  nation,  when  pro- 
perly directed  to  these  objects. 

At  each  of  these  interesting  and  important  points  the  rail« 
road  on  this  route  crosses  at  or  near  ihe  rapids,  thus  giving 
the  scientific  traveler  or  geologist  a  hasty  view  as  he  passes 
over  the  spacious  viaducts  that  span  tho  noble  streams  in 
Virginia  and  the  Carolinas.  The  places  above  referred  to 
are  also  noted  flour  markets  or  dep6ts  of  grain  from  the  in< 
terior,  and  the  outlets  of  large  sections  of  the  neighboring 
country  between  the  Blitt  Ridg*  and  the  head  of  tide  water} 
and  being  near  great  falls  in  each  stream,  it  seems  designed 
by  nature  that  large  manufacturing  or  commercial  pktcea 
should  arise  from  the  combined  facilities  here  presented ;  why 
they  should  have  been  so  long  overlooked  is  surprising,  and 
only  to  be  attributed  to  the  indisposition  of  the  people  to 
embark  in  trade  and  manufactures.  A  few  flouring  mtJls  on 
a  large  scale  seem  to  engross  and  comprise  the  whole  of  the 
manufacturing  industry  of  these  Virginia  CUiea  of  the  Falls., 

Richmond  appears  to  advantage  as  it  is  approached  on 
either  side,  being  on  a  gradual  rise  from  the  river  to  the  sunn 
mit,  that  is  crowned  by  the  Capitol  and  handsome  public  and 
private  edifices;  these,  with  the  bridges  and  viaduct  connect- 
ing with  the  opposite  side,  produce  an  imposing  appearance* 
The  city  contains  over  20,000  inhabitants,  including  an  equal 
number  of  whites  and  slaves,  and  is  a  place  of  much  trade, 
a  port  of  entry,  and  has  a  concentration  of  business,  owing  to 
the  canal  and  rail-roads  pervading  the  State. 

It  has  two  streets  that  are  parallel  with  the  river,  and  other* 
of  less  note.  The  main  street  is  a  mile  long,  with  paved  side 
walks  of  brick.  Coal  or  pine  being  the  fael  used,  the  tinge  of 
the  smoke  is  evident. 

The  ezpendituresof  this  State  within,  ten  years  for  internal 
improvements  have  been  liberal  and  judicious,  and  made  to 


tt 


Southern  Route  to  Ihe  Virginia  Springi. 


433 


centralize  upon  this  position ;  this  has  aided  mucb  to  increase 
the  wealth  and  prosperity  of  this  metropolis  of  the  old  do- 
minion. The  natural  beauties  of  the  environs,  its  finely 
wooded  eminences,  the  islands  and  rocky  shores,  and  on- 
structions  in  the  river,  that  add  life  and  animation  to  the 
scene,  have  been  recently  developed  in  the  grandest  and 
most  effective  manner,  from  the  costly  and  magnificent  Via- 
ducty  that  connects  the  city  with  the  south  shore  by  22  mas- 
sive stone  piers  resting  on  solid  rock  under  the  bed  of  the 
stream ;  the  rail- road  cars  passing  at  a  height  of  40  feet  above, 
the  width  of  the  river  being  900  feet,  the  whole  forming  one 
of  the  most  expensive  and  imposing  artificial  erections  in  the 
southern  Stales. 

Bituminous  coal,  pine  and  other  wood  found  in  abundance 
near,  can  be  cheaply  delivered  in  the  city  and  to  the  various 
fHCtoriea  that  the  water-power  derived  from  the  canal  and 
river  has  tended  to  establish.  There  are  eight  locks  of  10 
feet  each,  and  a  canal  basin  for  boats.  Bolow  the  locks  is  a 
wooden  bridge  crossing  the  river  to  a  smalt  island  &nd  public 
garden;  about  it  is  a  ledge  of  rocks  and  a  small  rapid ;  others 
occur  beyond.  The  James  River  Canal  and  slackwater  na- 
vigation extend  for  220  miles  up  the  interior.  <: 

There  are  ten  places  of  public  worship;  one  of  them,  of 
chaste,  striking,  and  elegant  stj^le  of  architecture,  contains  a 
monument  erected  upon  the  site  of  the  former  theatre,  that 
was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1820,  when  70  or  80  persons  pe- 
rished: the  new  court-house  is  a  handsome  structure;  the 
penitentiary  and  State  armory  are  extensive  and  appropri* 
ate.  The  classical  edifice  that  is  used  by  the  Legislature 
has  eight  Ionic  columns  of  wood  (those  of  the  four  Doric  col- 
umns of  the  massive  court-house  are  of  stone;)  it  is  visible 
from  afar,  and  forms  the  principal  feature  as  we  approach. 
Here  is  a  statue  of  Washington,  that  was  taken  from  life,  (by 
Houdon,  an  Italian  artist;)  it  is  esteemed  the  best  extant. 

The  <ino4t  southern  rouH  to  the  Virginia  Springs  from  the 
<east  is  via  Norfolk  and  Richmond,  up  the  James  River  val- 
ley by  Columbia,  Scottsvillo,  Warminster,  New  (iksgow,  and 
Amherst  court-house,  to  Lynfihburg,  pursuing  the  north  side 
of  the  river  through  a  most  pleasant  portion  of  the  State, 
with  a  view,  the  greater  part  of  the  way,  of  the  fine  scenery  of 
the  river  in  its  meandering  course,  the  canal  in  proximity. 
The  distance  is  130  miles,  fare  $8  to  f  9  50.  The  stages 
leave  here  at  three  to  six  o'clock  in  the  morniag,  Monday, 

«7 


!     J 


4Si 


■aM^^ii/^'  *'     Lynchburg* 


.ci^isitfs  ?»»>■>. 


Wednefldajr,  and  Friday,  renting  at  night,  reaching  hynth* 
burg  the  next  evening,  and  the  subsequent  day  to  and  acro«» 
the  Blue  Ridge;  the  lofty  acuminated  Pea^^  ox  Conea  of 
Otter  being  in  sight,  towering  4,000  feet  above  the  vale  with 
much  grandeur.  The  Balceny  Fallt  and  the  Blue  Ridge 
Canal  are  seen  in  passing  through  the  gap  io  She  Natural 
Bridge  in  Rockbridge  County.  In  20  miles  is  Harris  hotel,  a 
first-rate  house,  and  a  farm  of  750  acres  and  appurtenances, 
all  abounding  in  the  comforts  of  life.  Columbia  is  at  the 
raouth  of  the  Rivanna;  up  its  valley  is  the  road  to  Char" 
Jottesville  and  Monticello.  Raine's  lavern,  70  miles  from 
Hichmottd,  is  a  resting  or  halting- place  for  stages  east  or 
tvest.  The  road  now  is  compact;  rocks  are  seen  in  12  mile» 
to  Newitone^  thence  n  miles  to  Patterson's  the  undulations 
of  the  road  increase,  as  doe«  the  scenery  in  romantic  beauty 
and  interest;  the  next  10  miles  to  Ghitlow'a,  and  17  more  to* 
JLofnchburg,  that  is  beheld  on  the  south  side  of  Jamea  River, 
in  descending  a  hill  and  across  the  valley,  it  rises  in  terrace 
form ;  the  streets  are  iMconvenient  in  acclivity;  its  houses  are 
of  brick ;  the  streets  are  paved ;  fountains-of  water  on  the  hill 
are  used  to  supply  the  eitizens  ^  population  6,000.  Wheat^ 
flax,  hemp,  flour,  tobacco,  are  concentrated  here,  and  find 
their  way  down  to  tide  by  the  canal.  It  is  also  a  hog  or  pork 
mart.  There  are  four  churches,  several  hotels^the  Franklin, 
by  Morris,  and  others. 

At  Lynchburg  there  are  two  bridges  oyer  the  river.  The 
ware-houses  for  receiving  tobacco  or  flour  are  large  and  indi' 
cate  much  trade;  also  manufactories  of  cotton^  woollen,  ^, 
In  its  vicinity  are  four  mineral  springs.  It  is  21  miles  to  the 
great  Fails,  10  miles  in  the  outset  being  to  the  first  gap  at 
Davis'  Hotel,  on  very  elevated  ground ;  a  part  of  the  road  is* 
on  the  south  bank  of  the  James  before  reaching  the  ferry,, 
and  crossing  it  to  the  north  and  topping  the  Sue  Ridge. 
Here,  as  in  previous  crossings  of  the  gaps,  are  beheld  the 
roost  splendid  bird's-eye  views  of  the  deep  valley  below ;  the 
river,  as  it  breaks,  foaming  and  glistening  over  the  rocks ^ 
with  the  winding  canal,  and  a  panorama  of  lof^y  wood-clad 
mountains ;  the  same  sensation*  of  fear, terror,  admiration, 
and  affright  are  inflicted  (as  before  felt)  by  Ihe  ingenuity 
of  the  engineer  in  farming  the  road,  in  lt»  ending  at  abrupt 
angles,  that  seem  unguarded  from  the  rapid  velocity  of  the 
heavy  descending  vehiiclt ;  but  whilf  the  heart  faila  and 
quails,  the  danger  is  past  and  we  breathe  in  safety.   Darst'» 


Petertburgh^  The  Roanoke  Riter. 


4H 


extensive  hotd  is  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain  and  eight 
miles  from  the  Naturd  Bridge,  and  to  reach  it  walking  i« 
preferable  to  rough  riding  in  carriages. 

The  road  from  this  to  Fincastle,  Blountsville,  Khozville, 
connects  with  stage  lines,  via  Nashville  to  Memphis,  on 
the  Mississippi,  or  to  Huntsville,  and  Atabana,  Arkan- 
flas,  &c. 

As  we  resume  our  great  southern  route,  on  leaving  Rich- 
mond and  crossing  to  Manchester  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river,  we  are  in  Chesterfield  County,  and  pass  succes- 
sively Falling  and  Swift  Creeks,  the  latter  a  branch  of  the 
Appomatex,  and  we  soon  are  at  Petertburg^  in  Dinwiddie 
County,  27  miles  south  of  Richmond  ;  here  are  falls  that  are 
used,  as  at  Richmond  and  Fredericksburg,  for  milling  and 
flour  making.  A  canal  also  extends  around  the  falls  to  faci- 
litate the  trade  up  the  country,  and  cheapen  the  expense  of 
taking  from  distant  parts  the  heavy  articles  of  wheat,  flour, 
tind  tobacco,  the  staples  of  this  State.  The  population  of 
this  city  is  about  ten  thousand.  Vessels  of  100  tons  can  reach 
here,  but  ships  only  to  City  Point,  13  miles  below  on  iames 
River. 

Passing  on  for  30  miles  over  runs  or  creeks  that  join  the 
Nettowtijf  River,  a  branch  of  the  Cfwwan,  that  falls  into  Al- 
bemarle Sound,  we  are  in  Greenville  County,  and  next  cross, 
after  several  small  runs,  the  Meherrin,  also  a  branch  of  the 
Chowan,  then  through  or  near  Hick  ford,  we  cross  Fontaine's 
Creek,  and  soon  after  the  line  of  Virginia  and  North  Caro- 
lina, and  are  in  Northampton  County ;  and  in  10  miles  further 
we  are  un  the  banks  of  the  Roanoke  River,  at  Weldon,  and 
coon  intersect  the  Portsmouth  and  Roanoke  Rail-road^  tltat 
extends  north-east  86  miles  to  the  Chesapeake  Bay,  at  Ports- 
mouth and  Norfolk. 

The  Roanoke  is  one  of  the  largest  rivers  in  the  southern 
States,  and  has  its  head  springs  amid  the  loftiest  mountains 
in  Virginia  and  North  Carolina ;  it  collects  and  discharges 
from  its  prolonged  course  of  400  miles  a  most  turbulenn  mass 
of  waters,  that  reaches  Albemarle  Sound  at  the  confluence  of 
Chowan  River,  80  miles  below  Weldon,  and  the  falls  at  the 
head  of  tide. 

Halifax  is  seven  miles  below  the  Falls,  and  to  this  point 
vessels  of  &0  tons  burthen  can  reach-,  a  canal  opens  the  na- 
vigation for  130  miles  beyond  the  great  falls  above  Weldon. 

The  Viaduct  over  the  Roanoke  at  Weldon  is  another 


i: 

; 


436 


■s*'4!i,' jv  •;  ."a     WUmingion.     h^H. 


splendid  construction,  honorable  to  its  projectori,  to  the  mil- 
road  company,  and  to  the  improved  style  of  engineering  and 
workroaaship  here  exhibited;  it  being  a  seriet  of  piers  100 
feet  high,  of  hewn  stone,  with  a  platform  and  bridge  on  the 
lattice  plan  one  thousand  three  hundred  and  twenty  feel  long, 
including  flats  and  abutments;  advantage  is  here  taken  of 
the  same  obstructing  ledge  of  rock  as  at  Richmond  and 
elsewhere,  that  furnishes  a  firm  foundation,  and  facilitates 
the  passage  of  this  stream  at  such  a  giddy  height. 

Garey's  is  the  place  of  intersection  of  the  two  railroads 
from  Petersburg  and  Richmond  to  the  north,  and  Ports- 
mouth and  Norfolk  to  the  north-east,  one  mile  and  a  half 
from  Blakely  and  Weldon ;  then  the  route  is  again  resumed 
southerly  through  Halifax  and  the  borders  of  Nash  and 
Edgecomb  Counties,  crossing  various  streams  subsidiary  to 
the  Tar  River,  and  over  that  at  the  Bocky  Falls,  and  in  30 
miles  over  the  Contentny,  a  branch  of  the  AVuse  River,  near 
- Stantonsburg  and  bridge;  taen  across  Wayne  County  30 
miles  to  Waynesboro, on  the  Neuse  River,  51  miles  south- 
east from  Raleigh,  the  State  Capital;  and  across  Duplin 
County,  following  the  valley  of  the  north-east  branch  of 
Cape  fr'ear  River,  in  New  Hanover  County,  60  miles  to  Hit- 
mingtoUf  on  the  low,  sandy,  eastern  bank  of  Cape  Fear  Rivei\ 
36  miles  from  the  ocean.  A  portion  of  the  above  extensive 
line  is  nearly  straight  for  39  miles. 

f  ^i  fVilmington  ban  a, 000  inhabitants,  two  banks,  an  Episco- 
palian  and  Presbyt^ian  Church,  an  academy  and  printing- 
office,  court  house  and  jail.  The  islands  in  the  river  opposite 
the  town  caut^e  three  channels  ;  the  entrance  is  quite  shoal, 
but  admits  vessels  of  200  or  300  tons ;  it  is  the  principal  place 
(eiccept  Newbern,  on  the  Neuse  River)  for  the  exports  of 
this  State,  consisting  of  tar,  turpentine,  and  cotton. 

From  Charleston  it  is  150  miles  to  Wilmington,  thence  via 
Weldon  and  Portsmouth  and  Roanoke  Rail-road  to  Norfolk, 
Virginia,  is  300  miles,  traversed  in  36  hours  over  a  swampy 
or  sandy  soil,  productive  of  trees  of  the  pitch  pine,  that  look 
monotonous  or  gloomy,  with  cleared  spots  occurring  rarely. 
Leaving  Norfolk  in  the  evening,  the  traveler  gets  to  Baltimore 
at  nine  o'clock  the  next  morning,  at  Philadelphia  in  the  after- 
noon, at  New- York  in  six  hours  following,  Tlie  expense  for 
the  whole  distance  is  about  $40.  By  the  ship  or  coast  line 
$20. 
i«P  From  IVilmington  to  Charleston  by  steamboat  down  Cape 


> -^  Chmrletton, 


"^^ 


^'^'p' 


VAVW, 


416 


J^HtaiMMit^i^ 


\ 


~**H»>. 


J 


;■  \:-- 


/  .  -'' 


-.:    -X 


ChmrUitom, 


437 


Fear  River,  past  Brunswick  and  SmithviUe,  an<1  along  the 
coaat  for  150  miles  is  the  only  sea  exposare,  and  occupies  10 
or  15  hours  in  fisvorable  weather ;  the  time  required  from 
Boston  to  Charleston  is  four  davs;  the  conputed  distance 
being  1,100  miles.  From  Charleston  via  the  rail  road  to 
Augusta,  on  the  Savannah  River,  and  across  the  States  of 
Georgia  and  Alabama  to  Montgomery  and  Mobile,  or  Pen- 
aacola,  and  by  steam-boat  to  New  Orleans  in  five  days. 

CharluUnt  South  Carolina,  is  in  north  latitude  B2P  37' on  a 
point  of  land  between  the  Ashley  River  on  the  south- west, 
and  Cooper  River  on  the  north-east,  seven  miles  from  the 
ocean ;  its  defences  are  Castle  Pinckney  on  an  island  in  the 
harbor  south-cast  and  near  the  city ;  Fort  Moultrie  on  Sulli- 
vau*s  Island,  four  miles  on  the  east  side;  and  Fort  Johnson 
two  and  a  half  miles  on  the  west  side  of  the  entrance  to  the 
harbor;  but  its  shoals  and  changing  channels,  at  all  times 
difficult  or  dangerous,  and  only  admitting  a  depth  of  16  feet, 
are  perhaps  its  best  protection.  A  caiuU  of  22  miles  from 
the  head  of  Cooper  River  connects  the  waters  of  the  harbor 
with  the  Sante  River,  50  miles  to  the  north,  opposite  Black 
Oak  Island  in  Sumter  County. 

The  great  Florida  or  Chufttruvm  runs  past,  and  only  15 
to  20  leagues  distant  from  the  bar,  and  has  a  powerful  influ- 
ence in  its  constant  action  on  the  shores  and  harbors,  in 
mltering  the  conformation  of  the  coasts,  or  in  modifying  or 
influencing  the  climate. 

The  population  of  this  beautiful  city  of  the  south  is  com- 
puted to  be  37,000  to  40,000 :  about  half  being  whites,  the 
rest  slaves  or  mulattos.  There  are  30  churches  of  various 
denominations;  several  large  valuable  libraries;  the  atreetc 
and  squares  are  shaded  by  the  Pride  of  India ;  the  gardens 
and  embellishments  have  a  tropical  appearance  in  summer ; 
its  winter  climate  is  mild,  but  not  as  equable  for  invalids  as 
St.  Augustine  or  Key  West,  or  the  south  side  of  the  Island 
of  Cuba  for  those  desirous  of  a  soft  dry  atmosphere. 

The  great  fire  in  1838  devastated  a  large  and  valuable 
portion  of  the  city,  that  is  now  re-built  with  renewed  beauty 
and  durability,  and  increased  safety,  in  modern  atvle.  The 
impulse  given  to  the  growth  and  prosperity  of  the  city  is 
evident  since  the  State  and  individuals  have  entered  into 
the  rail-road  system.  This,  if  cautiously  extended  as  con- 
templated, will  no  doubt  be  beneficial.  The  Orphan  Asylum 
and  other  institutions  here  are  well  supported.    Forthtir 


438 


MoultrUville, 


intelligent,  liigh  chivalric  feeling,  politeness  and  hospitality, 
the  citizenR  of  this  capital  are  proverbial. 

MouUrieviUe,  on  Sullivan's  Island,  a  flat  sandy  place 
covered  with  palmetto  trees,  is  much  resorted  to.  in  summer 
as  a  healthy  position  by  t^e  inhabitants  of  this  metropolis, 
for  sea-bathnif,  riding,  &c.  on  t^e  shore. 

The  city  of  Savannah  may  be  reached  by  steam-boat  or 
coasting  craft,  that  either  take  the  outside  passage  or  follow 
the  intricate  chain  of  passages  in  more  safety,  made  during 
the  war  of  the  revolution  by  the  enemy,  crossing  over  16 
rivers  and  threading  some  very  narrow  cuts,  and  pausing 
over  shoals  and  by  13  islands,  with  occasional  open  chaii- 
nels  and  glimpses  ocean  ward  on  the  blue  expanse. 

From  Charleston  the  route  through  the  State  of  South 
Carolioa  is  t>y  the  rail-road  for  Hamburgh,  firat  taking  a 
north-west  direction  for  130  miles,  then  westerly  six  miles 
to  the  banks  of  the  Savannah  River,  opposite  Augusta  in 
Georgia,  fare  thus  far  $7 ;  thence  by  the  rail-rosd  made  by 
the  Georgia  Rail-road  and  Banking  Company  through  the 
Counties  of   Richmond,    Columbia,    Warren,    Talliaferro, 
Greene,  to  Greensboro'  or  Madison,  thence  to  be  through 
Covington  to  Decatur,  123  miles  from  Augusta,  nearly  fin- 
ished ;  here  the  State  RaiUroad  begins,  arid  has  its  route  of 
1 18  miles  in  a  north-west  line  through  the  old  Cherokee  lands, 
via  Cobb,  Cass,  Murray,  and  Walker  Counties,  there  touch- 
ing the  Tennessee  line  and  the  internal  improvements  of  that 
State,  by  the  Hiwasaee  Railroad  of  98ii  miles,  extending  up 
valleys  and  through  gorges  of  the  lovely  Alleghanies,  to 
KnoxviUe.   This  is  a  new  and  beautiful  route  that  may  be 
easily  traced  north-east,  through  North  Carolina  and  Vir- 
ginia to  the  various  springs,  caves,  falls,  mountains,  &c.  to 
Staunton,  Winchester,  Harper's  Ferry,  to  Baltimore. 

Restimtng  our  south-western  route  from  its  present  tempo- 
rary t^mination  at  Greensboro'  or  Decatur,  the  stages  are 
taken  towards  the  Chattahoochee  River.  The  rail-road  is  to 
et^oss  at  West  Point  or  by  a  branch  at  Columbus,  and  con- 
tinued through  A\hbAmti to  Mofltgomenj ;  thence  south-south- 
west to  Pensacola,  or  a  branch  to  Mobile  Bay ;  thence  by 
steatn-boat  to  New  Orleans,  as  may  be  traced  in  the  reversed 
order,  with  full  details  in  our  route  from  New  Orleans,  by 
the  ▼arit>u8  eastern  river,  land,  stage,  rail-road,  or  other  ar- 
Ting^n^enti,  {wt  Index  and  table  of  cdnt^iitf ,) 

#.':*!,•  .       -     '  -»       "  '     '"' 

5  *i  ;, 


Canal,  Rail-road,  and  Vitmal  Swamp,  Virginia  .^    439 


Canal,  Baii-rond,  and  Dismal  Swampy 
Tlrirlnltt  and  North  Carolina* 

Th«  great  morass  called  the  Dismnl  Swamp,  hai  some 
peculiar  and  remarkable  features  not  generally  known  or 
attended  to  until  the  great  thoroughfares  of  late  opened  tip 
into  it :  the  canal,  the  road  on  its  hank,  from  Norfolk  to  North 
Carolina,  and  the  raii-way  that  dips  into  the  northern  bor- 
der of  the  swamp,  have  elicited  some  novel  characteristics 
in  the  geological  and  agricultural  features  with  which  it  is 
connected. 

The  swamp  is  40  miles  from  north  to  south,  and  25  from 
east  to  west, ( 1,000  square  miles  or  640,000  acres,)  and  all  this, 
except  some  small  spots,  is  a  quagmire,  a  mass  of  shaking, 
irembling,vegetable  matter,  or  labyrinth  of  roots,  rotten  logs, 
shrubs,  and  trees,  matted  and  almost  impenetrable,  and  in- 
stead of  being  lower.than  the  level  of  the  surrounding  coun- 
try, or  a  receptacle  of  the  streams  flowing  therefrom,  it  in 
fact  is  higher  than  all  or  nearly  all  the  firm  and  dry  lands 
that  encompass  it,  and  the  interior  of  the  swamp  is  general- 
ly higher  than  its  outer  circumference. 
P  The  only  exception  to  both  of  these  facts  is  on  the  west 
side,  where  for  12  miles  the  streams  flow  from  higher  lands 
into  the  swamp,  and  supply  all  its  abundant  a^'^d  overflow- 
ing water ;  but  to  the  north-east  and  south,  the  drain  and 
descent  is  self-ev4dent  to  the  observer,  showing  the  outlet 
and  current  from  the  swamp  to  diflierent  rivers,  and  of  the 
superior  level  of  the  former.  The  levels  and  profiles  of  the 
rail-way  from  Portsmouth  to  Suffolk,  and  of  the  Dismal 
Swamp,  and  the  Land  Company's  Canal,  all  evince  the  truth 
of  this  statement; 

Where  the  rail* way  passes  through  about  four  miles,  it  is 
above  the  level  of  the  firm  land  on  either  side  by  six  or 
seven  feet.  The  central  part  of  the  swamp  is  five  or  six  feet 
above  the  middle  section  of  the  Dismal  Swamp  Canal,  that 
itself  is  13  feet  above  the  rivers  into  which  it  empties,  and 
these  rivers  are  not  more  than  five  or  six  feet  below  much 
ef  the  dry  but  low  lying  land  of  this  flat  country. 

It  is,  in  short,  an  immense  aggregation  of  vegetable  mat- 
ter allied  to  peat,  and  in  a  state  of  rapid  growth,  and  hence 
its  height  above  its  margin  ;  below  the  living  roots  all  is  black 
■oil  mud ;  and  over  it,  under  shelter  of  the  large  trees,  shrubs, 


•  If. 


"*■-  ¥■', 


440      Canalt  Rail-road,  and  DUmal  Sieamp,  Virginia, 

or  reeds,  is  h  Chick  carpet  of  tender,  tnotty  plants  that  rise 
four  or  five  inches,  and  that  can  be  taken  up  ko  easily  they 
appear  to  have  slight  hold  of  the  soil,  that  is  wet  as  water 
can  make  it,  and  la  the  least  solid  of  the  whole,  and  most 
favorable  to  the  junipcr-tiees,  that  stand  barely  supported 
by  their  sap  roots  in  these  quaking  bogs  oCsurfot  rponge, 
as  it  is  called. 

1  This  wetness  and  extreme  richness  of  the  soil  causes  an 
immense  growth  of  a(;^uatic  plants  ofall  sizes  and  of  various 
kinds,  from  the  dimmutive  moss  and  the  water-loving 
hydran^GS,  with  its  large  and  beautiful  paeony-size  ilowert; 
to  the  gigantic  cypress.  The  botanist  can  here  luxuriate, 
and  nature  will  ever  reign  triumphant  in  this  solitude  and 
miasmatic  domain. 

The  ^vet  soil  causes  more  evaporation  and  cold,  and  the 
heat  of  the  sun  is  excluded  by  the  thick  dense  foliage  of  the 
trees;  and  coldness  thus  produced  allied  to  a  more  north- 
ern climate,  and  the  leaves  and  vegetable  matter  that  fall 
are  but  partially  decomposed,  and  thus  add  annually  to  the 
thickness  of  the  soil.  ""' 

Cape  Hatteras  is  well  known  to  mariners  not  only  as 
a  dangerous  place,  but  remarkable  for  magnetic  anomalies, 
that  may  perhaps  have  some  affinity  to  the  non-variation  of 
the  compass  at  this  cape.  The  warm  waters  of  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico  here  appreach  within  a  few  miles  of  the  cold  mass 
of  water  embraced  in  the  Dismal,  the  great  heat  of  one  and 
the  cold  of  the  other  neutralizing  the  effect  of  the  magnetic 
and  electric  heat. 

'  No  one  can  be  awnre  of  the  magnitude  of  the  difficulty  in 
traveling  upon  this  swampy  and  semi-fluid  surface  until  trial 
is  made.  The  mat  or  web  of  living  roots  is  the  only  protec- 
tion from  total  submersion,  where  roads  and  paths  of  logs, 
and  fascines  of  twigs  and  brushwood  are  not  laid  out. 

It  was  not  until  30  years  before  the  revolution  that  Lake 
Drummond  was  discovered.  This  singular  lake  is  nearly 
oval,  seven  miles  long  and  five  and  a  half  wide.  It  has  no 
beach,  the  thick  and  tall  forest  being  at  and  in  its  margin, 
and  the  water  even  with  and  often  gently  overflowing  its 
banks,  that  sink  perpendicularly. 

This  fairy  and  lovely  sheet  of  water,  and  the  more  attrac- 
tive, perhaps,  from  the  repuUi  'e,  gloomy  aspect  of  its  bor- 
ders and  the  difliculty  of  approach,  has  had  its  tales  of 
wonder  and  incredulity  in  its  reported  unfathomable  depths. 


Diimal  Swamp^  SfC. 


441 


&c.  and  of  there  being  a  lubterraneous  communication  with 
the  ocean,  or  with  Albemarle  Sound ;  but  thliia  ftet  at  rest  by 
Riddick  Senior,  of  Suffolk,  and  Commodore  Barron  having 
sounded  acroia  the  lake,  and  the  depth  about  the  middle 
being  only  15  feet,  the  bottom  being  otmud  like  the  iwamp, 
but  sometimes  a  pure  white  sand  colors  the  mud  a  fool  or 
more  in  depth. 

General  Washington  and  a  few  other  gentlemen,  acting 
from  his  knowledge,  acquired  as  a  surveyor  in  early  life, 
purchased  a  part  of  the  Dismal  Swamp  wilderness  a  few 
years  before  the  revolution,  except  the  cream  of  the  whole— 
che  lake,  then  not  estimated  is  worth  even  the  lowest  pit- 
tance  of  the  State  taxation,  but  now  of  inestimable  value  for 
canal  purposes ;  40,000  acres  were  then  taken  by  the  Com- 
pany, but  It  is  now  known  as  much'largcr — size  65,000  acres ; 
they  also  bought  a  farm  on  the  borders  that  had  been  drain- 
ed and  rendered  rich  and  productive,  and  the  Company  dug 
a  canal  of  some  miles  in  length  from  the  high  land,  m  to- 
wards the  lake,  that  is  yet  large  enough  for  boats  to  pass, 
and  is  called  the  "  Washington  Ditch,**  and  was  nearly  use- 
less for  many  years,  until  they  began  the  getting  of  juniper 
shingles,  and  this  is  found  so  profitable  that  the  shares,  at 
first  only  of  $3,000  each,  are  now  worth  $15,000  each,  and 
the  dividends  even  then  are  large. 

The  curious  traveler  intending  to  explore  the  mysteries 
and  penetralia  of  the  dark,  secret  recesses  of  this  semi-fluid 
re|^ion,  must  procure  the  services  of  the  swamp  bontmen,  as 
bemg  best  acquainted  with  (not  to  say  indispensible  to)  the 
voyage,  and  mode  of  getting  on  in  the  canal  or  ditch. 

Starting  from  the  north  end  of  the  canal,  one  mile  from 
SuiToIk,  where  all  the  shingles  are  brought  from  the  interior 
of  the  swamp  and  put  over  to  the  tide  creek,  that  is  20  feet 
lower  level,  and  taken  by  sailing-craft  to  various  markets, 
we  find  the  boats  ready  in  which  we  are  to  proceed.  They 
are  flat-bottomed,  long  and  spacious,  and  well  designed  to 
receive  passengers  in  the  trips  to  the  lake  for  pleasure 
or  business. 

A  pole  is  fixed  across  the  boat  at  the  bow  and  stern,  and 
reaching  over  the  tow-path  on  each  side,  by  which  the  men 
push  the  boat  along  rapidly,  with  ease  by  four  men,  relieved 
at  times. 

The  canal  is  12  feet  wide,  four  deep,  and  is  10  miles  long, 
nearly  straight  and  level,  there  beinj[  but  a  slight  impulse 


I 


y^ 


449 


tuterior  of  the  Dumal  Swamp. 


or  current  from  the  middle  towards  each  end.  In  passing 
through  the  firm  land,  the  banks  are  one  to  two,  and  for  h 
dhort  space  three  to  four  feet  high,  till  at  the  swamp  it  is 
firm  but  more  depressed  for  a  few  rods,  and  for  seven  or 
eight  miles  the  path  is  almost  even  with  the  swamp ;  but 
holes,  brush,  mud,  and  constant  treading  of  the /)U«/i«r9, give 
more  consolidation. 

Wooden  roads  for  miles  are  made  throughout  the  swamp 
to  convey  the  shingles  to  the  borders  of  the  canal,  and  these 
nmle-road4  are  five  and  six  miles  long.  The  water  crosses 
in  many  places  over  the  margin  of  the  canal,  and  we  soon 
reach  the  juniper  or  cedar  trees,  and  the  soO  swamp  soil  in 
which  only  they  will  grow ;  they  are  high,  straight,  and  have 
naked  trunks  to  a  certain  height,  where  a  thick  tuft  comes 
out,  that,  when  they  are  compact,  forms  a  high  roof  of  ever- 
greens beautiful  to  behold.  Patches  of  burnt  woods  occur 
where  the  trees  have  been  killed  by  fires  in  olden  times. 
From  the  slight  rooting  or  penetration  of  the  trees  in  the 
semi-liquid  mass  they  are  easily  upset  or  blown  down,  and 
then  are  soon  covered  with  water,  and  so  remain  for  ever 
without  rotting,  except  the  sap-wood,  an  inch  thick ;  and 
much  of  the  timber  now  got  is  found  by  probing  or  sound- 
ing, ai  which  they  are  very  dexterous,  and  thus  fish  up  or 
saw  oif  from  a  foot  or  two  deep. 

The  trees  each  side  of  the  canal,  where  they  almost  unite 
their  branches  across  into  an  arch  of  verdure,  form  a  vista 
and  vanishing  point  or  perspective  of  striking  besuty — and 
at  night,  when  the  light  of  the  pine  torches  flashes  through 
and  lights  up  the  deep  gloom  of  the  midnight  darkness,  a 
scene  is  presented  for  the  admiring  artist. 

The  original  gigantic  forest  is  yet  preserved  in  part,  and 
these,  .  ided  by  the  thick  growtli  of  reed,  give  a  footing  to 
rest  upon  occssionally  ;  and  this,  it  is  hoped,  will  for  a  long 
time  be  spared  from  the  ruthless  hand  of  man,  where  the 
king  of  the  forest,  the  cypress,  the  gum,  &.c.  will  be  found, 
with  a  host  of  inferior  vegetation. 

The  camp  or  huts  of  the  shingle-getters  are  mere  shan- 
ties or  covers  for  ave  or  six  men  to  lie  in,  close-packed,  like 
spoons,  with  heads  to  the  back  wall,  and  feet  to  the  fire  in 
front — their  beds  of  shingle-shavings,  and  their  yards  filled 
with  the  same. 

There  are  500  slaves  employed  in  this  work  by  task,  and 
their  week's  work  is  said  to  be  easy,  and  done  in  less  than 


Upper  RuU'toad  in  North  Carolina. 


Aii 


the  time  allotted;  they  have  plenty  of  leisure,  are  fond  of 
the  einploymeni,  and  are  healthy. 

After  making  a  slight  deviation  from  the  course  pursued 
for  several  miles,  the  boat  glides  most  unexpectedly  out  into 
the  open  lake,  where  the  oars  are  taken  up,  and  we  advance 
for  two  miles  towards  the  centre,  and  find  that  we  are  en- 
compassed round  its  margin  by  a  thick  growth  of  tall  trees, 
the  cypress  being  most  conspicuous.  Though  not  exactly 
land-locked^  yet  the  vegetable  margin  from  the  middle  of  this 
expanse  of  water  of  course  appears  low,  and  offers  but 
slight  protection  from  the  violent  winds  that  at  times  sweep 
over  from  Albemarle  Sound  and  the  near  Atlantic,  and  the 
violence  of  storms  is  here  as  often  seen  as  on  the  sea. 

The  water,  though  it  looks  dark  in  the  canal  and  lake, 
from  its  vegetable  tinge,  is  clear  in  a  glass,  or  of  a  wine  co* 
lor,  and  is  the  same  throughout ;  it  is  palatable  and  whole- 
some, and  is  preferred  by  the  men  to  any  other,  though  to 
most  strangers  disagreeable;  but  invalids  come  and  use  the 
water  for  consumption,  and  remain  at  the  tavern  on  the  op- 
posite or  south  side  of  the  lake,  near  the  Dismal  Swamp 
Canal. 

Oar  fish  ot  great  size,  five  feet,  are  caught,  and  others  thai 
are  esteemed,  and  the  dining  on  them  is  a  part  of  the  grati- 
fication of  the  traveler.    Bears  abound  in  the  thick  recesses 
of  the  cane-break,  and  prey  on  the  hogs  of  the  farms  ad- 
jacent.    Wild  and  pole-cats  also  are  known  to  be  here. 


ITpiier  Rail«road  in  North  Carolina* 


Froid  Weldon,  on  the  Roanoke,  a  branch  rai!-road  diverge 
•8  south-west  for  86  miles  to  RcUgigh,  the  capital  of  the 
State,  in  Wake  County,  between  the  Ifeuse  and  Cape  Fear 
Rivers,  latitude  35^48'.  Its  population  is  1,800,  concentra- 
ted near  the  public  square  of  10  acres,  on  a  pleasant  ele> 
vation,  that  is  surmounted  by  the  chaste  and  elegant  State- 
house  ;  a  former  edifice,  in]183l,  was  destroyed  by  fire,  with 
Canovd's  statue  of  Washington — an  irreparable  loss  to  the 
fine  arts  and  the  world.  There  are  two  churches,  two  aca- 
demies, four  printing-offices,  a  theatre,  bank,  court  house, 
jail,  and  market.  It  is  27  miles  north  of  Sraithfield,  the  near- 
est head  of  sloop  navigation ;  50  from  Waynesboro*,  or  the 


\f 


♦  f 


444 


Old  Route  from  Norfolk  to  Charleston, 


intersecting  point  on  the  great  rail-road  from  Wcldon  to 
Wilmington  ;  60  north  oi'Fayetteville;  164  sout^-south-west 
of  Richmond,  Virginia;  119  northrwest  of  Newhern. 

The  streets  are  100  feet  wide  each  side  of  the  squaee,  thus 
dividing  the  town  into  four  equal  parts.  The  viaduct,  or 
structure  supporting  the  rail-road  above  the  Neuse  River,  is 
1,000  feet  long,  on  lofty  granite  piers ;  thus  far  can  boats 
reach  usually.  The  extension  of  the  rail-road  hence  to  Fa- 
yetteville  60  miles ;  thence  to  Chera w  60  miles }  Camden  and 
Columbia^  South  Carolina,  through  dark  forests,  86  miles; 
thence  to  Charleston,  via  Branchville,  is  120  miles,  is  de- 
sirable for  travelers,  to  give  a  safe  upper  route  to  attain 
Charleston,  and  avoid  the  150  miles  of  sea  risk.  From  Co- 
lumbia, by  stage- road,  to  Augusta,  Georgia,  is  78  miles  in  a 
south-west  course. 

Fayelteville  has  a  population  of  3,000.  It  is  on  the  west 
side  of  Cape  Fear  Ri\er,  here  1,000  feet  wide,  spanned  by 
a  bridge,  and  navigable  thus  far  for  vessels  of  150  tons.  A 
brisk  trade  is  carried  on  in  cotton,  tobacco,  flour,  turpentine, 
iic.  The  town  is  principally  one  mile  from  the  river,  in  1831 
it  was  nearly  consumed  ;  it  has  been  re-built  in  a  more 
secure,  efficient,  and  ornamental  manner.  There  is  a  ca- 
pital hotel  here.  The  roads  traveled  by  stages  pervade  the 
region  of  pine  woods  in  all  directions  for  hundreds  of  miles. 


Old  Stage  Route  from  Norfolk  to 
M^ .  .^  -   .V    Charleston, 


From  Norfolk  to  Murfreesborough,  by  the  old  stage-road, 
is  68  miles,  crossing  in  the  outset  two  small  Inlets  from  the 
bay,  on  long  bridges,  passing  near  Portsmouth  and  the  !Navy 
Yard,  and  soon  entering  a  forest  that  skirts  on  the  north  the 
great  Dismal  Swamp,  herein  described.  The  old  road  is 
sandy  ;  the  forests  thick  with  oak,  cypress,  cedar,  and  pine ; 
magnolias,  laurel,  holly,  and  evergreen  on  the  marshy  spots, 
with  a  wilderness  of  vines  and  climbing  plants  of  the  vari-^ 
ous  parasites. 

Suffolk  is  reached  in  28  miles  from  Norfolk ;  it  is  a  small 
place,  of  a  few  wooden  houses  in  the  midst  of  the  forest,  a 
resort  for  travelers  in  the  olden  time  as  a  half-way  house. 
Cotton  plantations  in  fields  and  corn  bi^ad  in  taverns  soon 
begin  to  appear  when  we  cross  the  rivers  Nottoway  and 
Moherrin.  x 


tiUeiior  ilotlle  in  North  Carolina. 


44d 


At  SuHolk,  where  the  new  and  all-absorbing  rail-way  in« 
tersects  the  ancient  route,  that  goes  more  south  than  the 
course  of  the  Potomac  and  Roanoke  Rail-road,  that  is  hero 
left  to  the  north,  we  continue  on  to  Sommerton,  and  noon 
cross  th0  line  of  Virjiinia  and  North  Carolina,  then  the  Not> 
towBy  and  Moherrin,  and  are  at  Murfreesborough  on  the 
banks  of  the  latter  river,  that  at  the  union  of  the  Nottoway 
a  few  miles  below,  forms  the  Chowan  River,  that  disgorges 
by  a  wide  bay  into  the  Albemarle  Sound.  The  aspect  of  the 
flat  forest  and  marshy  country  continues  more  dotted  by 
plantations  of  corn  or  cotton  ;  the  owner's  house  with  a 
pia:>za  in  tho  midst,  the  huts  of  the  slaves  and  the  barns 
on  the  right  or  left.  This  continues  till  we  meet  the  Roan, 
oke  River  and  arrive  at  Halifax.  The  banks  of  the  river 
are  picturesque,  and  exhibit,  by  tho  variety  of  new  plants 
or  shrubs,  our  approach  to  more  southern  and  genial  climest 

Pursuing  our  course  due  south,  in  SOmiles  we  are  at  Tar- 
borough,  (or Tar  River,)  with  800  inhabitants,  streets  broad, 
regular — houses  of  wood.  To  reach  Fayettevillo  we  travel 
86  miles  in  a  thick  forest.  At  Waynesborough  we  intersect 
the  grand  rail  road  line  from  the  Roanoke  to  Wilmington* 
(see  page  435 ;)  no  other  village  of  note  occurs.  The  Neuse 
and  Cape  Fear  Rivers  are  the  largest  streami  crossed.  Over 
the  latter  is  a  long  covered  bridge  on  the  lattice  plan,  when 
we  are  at  Fayetleville.  Hence  are  two  routes  to  Charleston ; 
the  upper  is  60  miles  to  Cheraw,  through  forests  and  over 
roads  of  sand ;  we  begin  to  see  near  the  houses  the  melia 
aeadarach,  or  Pride  of  India,  and  other  trees,  indicative  of 
a  softer  climate ;  crossing  Lumber  River^  reaching  Laurel 
Hillf  the  Little  Pedee,  and  after  crossing  the  lines  of  North 
and  South  Carolina,  the  Great  Pedee,  at  Cheraw,  thence  to 
Camden^  on  the  Catawba,  is  68  miles,  through  a  thick  wood, 
over  Black  and  Lynch's  creeks— the  road  sandy,  the  trees 
or  evergreens  fine ;  in  32  miles  we  are  at  Columbia,  the  capi- 
tal of  the  State.  The  last  stagt  of  32  miles  more  hilly  ;  sand 
more  yellow,  mixed  with  clay. 

Columbia,  South  Carolina,  contains  500  inhabitants.  It 
is  situated  on  an  eminence  at  the  confluence  of  Broad  and 
Saluda  Rivers,  that  here  merge  into  the  Congaree.  The 
streets  are  100  feet  wide,  shaded  by  the  Pride  of  India  trees  ; 
the  houses,  of  a  superior  grade,  have  elegant  gardens;  the 
spciety  is  refined,  and  the  college,  endowed  by  the  State,  is 
here  located.    The  State-house  is  a  large  plain  wooden  cdi* 

38 


. 


9m 


mssamoBBBm 


446 


Columbus  to  Charieiton^ 


fice.  A  canal  3  miles  long,  with  four  locks  of  nine  feet  ench, 
here  avoids  the  falls  in  tbeCongaree,  over  a  chain  of  rocks. 
The  locks  are  two  of  granite,  two  of  brick ;  the  bridge 
over  the  Congaree  is  on  eight  stone  piers,  and  cost  ^70,000. 
A  raiUroad  of  60  miles  leads  hence  to  Branchville,  and  in 
SO  more  to  Chariest  n  by  the  rail-road  from  Augusta  or 
Hamburgh  to  Charleston.  The  road  is  sandy,  swampy,  and 
at  times  hilly,  through  a  forest  of  oaks  and  the  long-leafed 
pine,  with  the  Spanish  moss  adhering  to  the  branches  and 
waving  in  the  wind.  Live  oaks*  magnolias,  kalmeas,  and 
garden ia8"^the  palmetto,  the  macaw,  the  yucca  gloriosa,  in* 
crease  in  size  and  beauty  as  we  approach  the  coast.  Dor- 
chester is  passed,  then  the  venerable  church  and  burying- 
ground  of  St.  Andrews;  the  plantations  are  more  frequent 
and  of  superior  embellishment,  evincing  the  near  approach 
to  a  large  or  populous  city,  that  at  length  is  disclosed  as  the 
forest  is  left  behind.  The  houses  of  the  suburbs,  with  their 
gardens,  orange*trees,  roses,  and  the  glorious  novel  combi- 
nations of  scenery  peculiar  to  a  city  of  the  south,  become 
more  completely  unfolded ;  the  piazzas  or  balconies,  with 
))illars  festooned  by  flowers  and  creeping  vines,  the  passion* 
flower  Ok'  convolvulus  of  the  rose,  and  others,  regale  the 
senses  and  contribute  to  enhance  and  gratify,  in  the  highest 
degree,  the  wondrous  effects  to  a  stranger  from  the  frigid 
north  on  his  first  entrance  into  the  capital  of  South  Carolina. 
The  long  market,  on  the  Philadelphia  plan,  that  reaches 
from  the  harbor  up  the  city  in  five  compartments,  is  well 
supplied  from  home  and  abroad.  The  police  of  the  city  is 
strict  and  efficient ;  philanthropic  institutions  abound. 


'U. 


fk    :.'3;V.": 


Rail«road  from  Charleston  to  Cincinnati^ 

South  and  North  Carolina  and  Tennessee  have  granted 
acts  of  incorporation  to  aid  in  the  formation  of  this  road 
through  their  respective  States;  with  banking  privileges  of  a 
liberal  description. 

This  Company  purchased  of  the  Charleston  and  Hamburg 
Rail-road  Company  their  road  to  the  Savannah  River  at 
Augusta,  at  25  per  cent,  advance  on  the  first  cost  of  the 
shares,  payable  one  third  in  cash,  the  rest  in  one  and  two 
years ;  thus  securing  a  road  of  136  mileBfJUled  in  solid,  and 
for  66  miles  on  to  BranchvUles  this  now  forms  a  part  of  the 


"^''■ 


Rail-road  from  CharUiion  to  Cinciunali, 


m 


great  road,  and  the  privilege  of  extending  it  to  Columbia, 
the  capital  of  the  State,  is  exclusively  in  this  Company. 

From  Columbia  it  is  to  extend,  by  the  east  or  the  left  bank, 
up  the  Broad  River  to  its  extreme  head  waters  in  North  Caro- 
lina, in  Rutherford  County,  and  through  the  Butt  Mountain^ 
or  Hickory  Mountain  Gap,  to  AahevUle,  and  along  the  valley 
of  the  French  Broad  to  Knoxville,  Tennessee,  Lexington, 
Kentucky,  (Charleston  to  Columbia,  128  mile";)  at  Deep 
or  Big  Creek  Gap,  a  grade  of  50  or  60  feet  per  mile,  is  over 
the  Cumberland  Mountains. 

The  great  bank  of  $12,000,000  capital,  chartered  by  North 
and  South  Carolina  and  Tennessee,  called  the  "  South-  West' 
em  Rail-road  Bank**  for  31  years,  will  give  the  funds  re- 
quired to  equalise  the  currency  and  the  exchange  between 
the  States  of  Ohio,  Kentucky,  and  Tennessee  at  the  west, 
and  the  States  of  South  and  North  Carolina  and  Georgia  on 
the  east  of  the  mountains,  and  will  facilitate  by  its  banking 
operations  the  formation  and  progress  of  this  mammoth 
operation. 

The  Bank  Charter  is  of  the  most  liberal  tenure,  and  with- 
out any  bonus.  The  stock  is  exempted  from  taxation,  also 
the  dividends ;  the  bills  are  receivable  at  the  State  treasu- 
ries. 

From  BranchviUe  to  Columbia  the  lines  are  straight  in 
general,  and  vary  from  a  level  to  25  feet  grade  to  the  mile, 
and  the  curves  are  a  radius  of  2,800  to  5,700  feet. 

The  Charleston  and  Hamburg  Rail-road  was  originally 
constructed  on  sl  frame  work  of  wood  or  trusses,  (without  any 
embankment,)  and  bars  or  rails  of  iron,  fiat,  and  only  weigh- 
ing 15  pounds  to  the  yard,  fastened  on  string-pieces  of  wood  by 
iron  spikes.  This  cheap  method  was  the  only  one  that  was  ad- 
visable at  the  time,  from  the  limited  resources  at  command, 
but  has  been  since  remedied  throughout  the  entire  line.  It 
was,  when^r5(  undertaken,  longer  than  any  other  rail-road  in 
Europe  or  America,  and  is  still  destined  to  carry  the  palm 
in  this  respect;  and  the  entire  reconstruction  of  these  136 
miles  of  embankment  has  put  the  whole  on  a  solid  and 
secure  basis. 

The  income  is  steadily  advancing,  the  receipts  being,  in 
1838,  about  $300,000,. 

The  substitution  of  slave  labor  in  the  grading  and  working 
up  the  road  from  BranchviUe  to  Columbia  is  a  new  feature 
and  of  great  importance  to  the  southern  States,  and  quite  as 


44t 


^4- 


Ma4i»on  Springi,  ^v.  nv 


•  ?. 


eflTective  and  more  to  than  white  labor,  at  less  cost  and  be- 
low the  estimates  of  engineers,  even  competed  for  by  the 
planters  to  get  contracts ;  thus  avoiding  bringing  free  white 
labor  to  mingle  with  their  slaves;  15  cubic  yards  of  exca- 
vation in  a  day  per  slave  is  by  them  an  easy  task,  and  is  a 
day's  vroxk  among  the  Irish  at  the  north ;  but  18  cubic  yar^s 
each,  and  even  33  in  a  day,  has  been  done  by  the  blacks  in 
gangs. 

In  XhBsovih  they  have  in  abundance  the  best  of  pine  tim- 
ber  on  the  very  track  of  the  rail-roads,  the  surface  is  level 
with  a  sandy  soil,  not  requiring  to  guard  against  frost  in 
winter,  that  at  the  north  adds  $5,000  a  mile  to  the  cost. 

The  labor  of  slaves  can  be  had  to  any  extent,  and  no  more 
expense  for  the  increased  demand,  no  rioting.  Fuel  only 
costs  one  fourth  as  much  as  at  the  north,  and  is  inexhausti- 
ble. 37  feet  per  mile  is  the  utmost  grade ;  cars  run  in  8  to 
10  hours ;  engines  drag  trains  of  100  tons  136  miles  both 
ways  in  three  days. 

Madison  Springs  in  Madison  County,  23  miles  north-east 
of  Athens  and  seven  of  Danielsville,  are  tinged  with  iron, 
and  used  for  rheumatism  and  cutaneous  diseases,  are  a 
fashionable  resort ;  here  is  a  hotel  to  accommodate  20O  per- 
sons, and  other  houses  for  summer  residences ;  and  none  can 
be  healthier  than  this,  or  have  purer  water  or  a  poorer  soil 
around. 

SpHngs  similar  to  the  above  are  in  Franklin  County, 
eight  miles  further  north,  that  are  also  resorted  to  by  inva- 
lids to  spend  the  sultry  summer  months;  others  also  exist 
near  Athens,  and  in  Wilkes,  Jefferson,  (Cobbs,)  Greene, 
Wayne,  Talliaffero  and  Pike  Counties :  near  the  Flint  River 
is  one  called  the  Thundering  Spring ;  Greensboro  has  also 
in  one  of  its  public  wells  d\  grains  of  iron  to  the  pint,  and 
carbonic  acid  and  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  Fare  in  stage  to 
Augusta  $10  00  for  90  miles. 

From  MUiedgeville  to  Sparta  is  23  miles  over  a  hilly  coun- 
try mixed  with  clay  and  rock,  the  vales  sandy  and  heavy ; 
the  long-leaved  pine  prevails,  and  underneath  may  frequently 
be  seen  the  bivouacs  of  travelers  in  wagons,  on  their  way  to 
Alabama,  Mississippi,  Louisiana,  Arkansas,  or  Texas,  with  a 
large  slave  force,  this  road  being  the  great  thoroughfare. 
V  ^fmrittf  in  Hancock  County,  has  750  inhabitants,  a  female 
academy,  (on  the  Renssellaer  or  self-teaching  and  lecturing 
plan,)  and  70  houses  and  stores,  and  a  Methodist  church ;  it  is 


i^- 


Warr$aton'-'AugU9U», 


14  miles  to  Powellton  and  22  to  Warrenton,  and  28  west  to 
£atonton,  and  64  from  Augusta.  PowelUon  is  one  and  a  half 
inilei  virest  of  the  Ogeechee  River,  over  which  ii  a  bridge ;  here 
are  two  academies,  a  small  cluster  of  dwellings,  and  places  of 
worship  for  Baptists  and  Methodists,  a  few  stores,  doctors, 
and  mechanics. 

Warrenlon  is  the  county  town  of  Warren,  and  has  30  to 
40  dwellings,  stores,  and  offices,  an  acadeniy  and  Methodist 
place  of  worship,  and  is  on  a  branch  of  Savannah  River, 
called  Briar  Creek.  Here  lived  for  many  of  his  latter  years, 
Buahnellf  the  inventor  of  a  machine  for  blowing  up  ships 
with  gunpowder,  used  in  a  torpedo  under  water ;  he  was 
eccentric,  reserved,  slow,  cautious,  distant,  and  forbidding, 
and  a  native  of  Saybrook,  Connecticnt ;  he  acquired  consi- 
derable money  by  his  economy,  and  died  in  1826,  in  Haber- 
sham County,  worth  $9,000.  There  is  a  brick  court-house, 
and  a  jail  made  of  beams  and  planks  strongly  nailed  together. 
To  Lombardy  13  miles,  and  Augusta  25  miles;  this  is  a  hilly 
and  tedious  road,  sandy  In  the  extreme,  with  a  few  stray 
rocks  and  abundance  of  pine  trees,  but  few  or  none  of  the 
evergreens  and  beautiful  southern  plants  seen  elsewhere. 

Augusta  is  in  latitude  33°  33'  on  the  south-west  side  of 
the  Savannah  River,  that  is  here  1,100  feet  broad,  and  has  a 
bridge  leading  to  Hamburgh  on  the  east  shore.  This  is  a 
great  cotton  mart,  receiving  and  shipping  150,000  bales 
or  more  a  year,  having  16  warehouses,  300  to  500  feet 
long  and  4*0  broad.  Broad-street  is  180  feet  wide,  two 
miles  long;  it  pervades  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  is  full 
of  the  cotton  brought  to  the  city  in  wagons  or  by  the  rail- 
road. There  are  15  to  20  steam-boats  that  ply  to  Savannah 
in  five  days,  with  800  to  900  bales  and  passengers,  besides 
many  pole-boats  with  500  to  800  bales.      •         -  - 

There  are  daily  stages  or  rail-road  routes  to  Charleston, 
140  miles ;  Savannah,  127  miles ;  Columbia,  83;  Athens,  93 ; 
Greensboro',  74 ;  Madison,  94;  Carnsville. 

There  are  places  of  worship  for  Presbyterians,  Methodists, 
Episcopalians,  Baptists,  Catholics,  Unitarians,  Africans,  two 
banks,  two  markets,  five  hotels,  a  theatre,  court-house,  jail, 
hospital,  asylum,  arsenal,  free-school,  masonic  hall,  academy, 
45  by  40,  and  two  wings  93  by  32  feet ;  a  city  hall,  120  by 
60,  three  stories  high,  and  cost  $100,G0O.  Population  8,500. 
The  streets  are  wide,  well  laid  out,  planted  with  trees, 
and  cross  at  right  angles,  from  a  large  bend  in  the  river. 


i    I 


450 


Hamhurgh^Hiwaasee  Rail-road. 


The  town  faces  to  the  north-east,  and  the  houses  and  stores 
are  large  and  elegant;  the  streets  are  not  paved,  but  there 
art  brick  foot-paths.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  20  feet  high, 
and  the  place  of  landing  has  three  terraces,  the  first  faced 
ivith  cypress,  the  second  and  third  with  brick,  with  wooden 
landings;  the  lops  of  the  terraces  are  paved,  belonging  to 
the  State  Bank  of  Georgia,  and  pays  good  interest.  All  the 
upper  country  east  of  Ocomee  trades  here.  First  house  erected 
in  1755  by  Gen.  Ogelthorpe.    The  Globe  Hotel  is  good. 

Hamburgh,  opposite  Augusta,  has  600  inhabitants,  and  one 
row  of  houses  parallel  with  the  river,  and  150  paces  back. 

The  Hiwassee  Rnil-road,of  ninety^cight  and  a  half  miles  in 
length,  pervading  East  Tennessee,  begins  at  KnoxviUe  on  the 
Holston,  a  branch  of  the  Tennessee,  and  continues  along  its 
vale,  crossing  the  Hiwassee  River  at  Cdhoun,  passing  near 
Athens,  in  Monroe  County,  Ten  lessee,  and  crossine  the  Slate 
line  a  few  miles  from  Rossville,  and  near  Brainerd,  a  former 
missionary  station  for  the  Cherokees,  and  touching  the  rail- 
road entering  the  State  of  Georgia. 

The  Grand  Mountain  thoroughfare  and  line  of  travel,  con* 
necting  the  north-eastern  and  south-western  States,  already 
one  of  the  stage  mail  routes  to  Alabama,  Mississippi,  Ar- 
kansas, and  Louisiana,  must  eventually  be  matured  by  ex- 
tending  the  Hiwassee  Rail-road  up  the  charming  valley  to 
the  head  waters  of  the  Holston,  touching  Blountsville,  Ten-' 
nessee,  and  Abingdon,  Virginia,  and  on  to  Richmond. 

From  the  Hiwassee  termination,  as  above,  comiDences  the 
Western  and  Atlantic  or  Georgia  State  Rail-road;  continuing 
it  in  a  south  and  south-east  direction  for  118  miles,  to  near 
Decatur  in  De  Kalb  County,  crossing  the  head  branch  of  the 
Coose  River  near  New  Echota,  and  through  Cass  and  Cobb 
Counties. 

From  Decatur  to  Augusta  123  miles,  in  a  direction  nearly 
west  to  east,  a  private  incorporation,  the  *^ Georgia  Rail-road 
and  Banking  Company"  capital^two  millions  of  dollars,  one 
half  in  bank,  one  half  invested  in  rail-road,  have  completed 
the  route  through  or  near  Covington,  Madison,  Greensboro, 
Crawfordville,  Warrenlon  to  Augusta,  on  the  Savannah 
Biver.  Bv  the  South  Carolina  Rail-road  of  136  miles  from 
Hamburgh,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  we  reach  the  At- 
lantic sea-board  at  Charleston. 

Thus  from  KnoxviUe  to  Charleston,  as  above,  is  a  conti- 
nuoui  line  of  rail-road  of  476}  miles,  extending  for  over  half 


Rail-road  from  Savannah  to  Macon* 


451 


the  (liAtanco  through  a  romantic,  healthy,  pure  mountain  re- 
gion ;  the  road  has  no  tunnels  or  inclined  planes,  and  none 
of  its  grades  exceed  36  feet  to  the  mile,  or  its  curvatures  in 
radius  1,000  <)r  1,400  feet;  thus  admitting  a  regular  and 
Mafe  speed  of  20  to  30  miles  an  hour  with  locomotives;  this 
is  remarkable  for  such  an  extent  of  road,  and  is  caused  by  its 
occupying  a  series  of  valleys  at  the  base  of  the  chain  of  moun- 
tains in  Virginia,  Tennessee,  Georgia,  and  that  here  subside 
and  admit  of  easy  curves  around  their  west  and  south*west 
bases,  thus  entering  upon  the  south-cast  slope  to  reach  the 
Atlantic. 

By  the  above  rail-road  goods  may  be  sent  from  New- York, 
Philadelphia,  or  Baltimore,  via  Charleston,  in  a  week  or  ten 
days  to  the  remote  inland  counties  of  East  Tennessee,  at  $1 
or  $1  50  per  hundred  pounds.  Hitherto  this  has  been  a  se- 
eluded  out'-of-the-way  region,  depending  upon  wagons  or 
'stages  to  communicate  with  Rlulimond,  Baltimore,  or  the 
nearest  market  town. 

Following  the  present  mail  and  rail>road  line,  that  we  have 
traced  from  Charleston  to  Hamburg,  and  Augusta  in  Georcia, 
thence  it  is  continued  westerly  to  CrawfordvilUf  53  miles, 
Greensboro  18,  Madison  20,  Covington  26  ;  hence  it  is  to  di- 
verge in  a  south-west  direction  for  lOO  miles,  the  line  to 
reach  the  frontier  of  Georgia  and  Alabama,  on  the  Chatta- 
hoochee at  West  Point.  The  continuation  in  Alabama,  in 
the  same  direction  for  70  miles  nearly  completed,  will  reach 
Montgomery  on  the  Alabama  River,  (thence  it  is  forming  to 
Pensacola  and  Mobile.) 


Rail-Uoad  from  Savannah  to  lHacon. 

This  long  line  of  196  miles,  made  by  the  *^ Central  Rail- 
rond  and  Banking  Company,^''  chartered  by  the  state  of 
Georgia,  with  a  capital  of  $3,000,000;  of  this  amount 
$1,500,000  to  be  employed  in  banking. 

The  road  begins  at  the  dep6t  and  company's  ground  of  five 
acres,  granted  by  the  city  authorities  of  Savannah,  on  the 
Bouth-west  suburbs ;  thence  the  track  takes  a  westerly  direc- 
tion 13  miles,  and  soon  crosses  in  one  mile  a  heavy  embank- 
ment, approaching  to  within  a  mile  and  a  half  of  the  Great 
Ogeechee  River ;  then,  bending  to  the  right,  follows  the  ge- 
neral direction  of  that  river,  at  a  mean  distance  of  three  miles 


45S 


Saponnak, 


from  it,  through  the  fint  lands  of  Kffingham  County,  to  the 
hammocki  in  Scriven  County,  bordering  the  river  Swamp, 
aroiding  the  undulating  lurface  of  the  pine  lands  to  Brun- 
■on't  Nlill  Creek,  and  up  its  valley  and  around  the  east  base 
of  Paramour  Hill,  and  across  Buck  Head  Creek,  into  Burke 
County,  and  by  the  river  flats  crossing  the  Ogeechee  12  miles 
aouth  of  Louisville,  and  up  Williamson's  Swamp,  crossing  the 
stream  near  the  double  bridge,  and  taking  a  west  course  two 
and  a  half  miles  south  of  Sandersvllie,  to  the  Oconee  River 
and  swamp,  and  across  the  same,  and  up  along  the  Commis- 
sioner Creek  towards  Clinton,  and  south-west  to  Macon. 

Sixty-five  miles  are  straight — 16  are  curved — least  radius 
2,000  feet— 13  miles  are  level-^SS  have  a  slope  of  five  feet  in 
a  mile — 11  have  a  slope  of  five  to  10  feet— 19  have  over  10 
and  under  25  feet — 11  have  under  30  feet— this  covers  more 
than  half  the  diltance  from  savannah  to  Macon.  Savannah, 
by  means  of  the  existing  rail-road  facilities  in  Georgia,  and 
others  constructing  and  nearly  completed,  has  only  one  more 
link  of  the  chain  to  finish  to  connect  it  with  Augusta ;  this 
link  is  from  a  point  79  miles  north-west  of  Savannah,  at  the 
confluence  of  Buck  Head  Creek  in  Burke  County,  with  the 
Great  Ogeechee  River,  224^  north  to  Waynesboro,  on  Briar 
Creek,  thence  32^  miles  north  to  Augusta.  Thua  55  miles 
would  accomplish  this  desirable  connection,  and  enable  Sa- 
vannah to  compete  with  Charleston  for  the  trade  of  the  in- 
terior  and  upper  portions  of  Georgia  and  Tennessee.  The 
distance  being  tne  same,  475  miles  to  both  cities  by  the 
Hiwassee  road,  and  through  Georgia  to  Augusta,  snd  thence 
branching  off' to  Charleston  and  to  Savannah  as  proposed. 

As  respects  Savannah,  it  wilt  be  ahortened  19  miles  by  ex- 
tending the  rail-road  of  25  mt/e«,  that  cost  $300,000,  now  in 
use  from  Macon  to  Forsyth ;  to  connect  in  69  miles  with  the 
other  rail-roads  touching  Decatur.  In  this  generous  rivalry 
between  Charleston  anr'  Savannah,  for  the  trade  of  the  up 
country  in  Tenneisste,,  Kentucky,  and  the  Ohio  River  Valley, 
Savannah  cannot  but  reap  certain  benefits,  that  a  short  time 
and  the  lapse  of  events  must  disclose. 

'  Savannah  has  a  population  of  about  eight  thousand ;  is  in 
north  latitude  32<^  6',  was  laid  out  in  1733,  by  Gen.  Ogle- 
thorpe, on  the  south-west  bank  of  the  Savannah  River,  18 
miles  from  its  mouth,  on  a  sandy  plain  18  feet  above  the 
water.  Its  streets  are  airy,  wide,  rectangular,  beautifully  or- 
namented and  shaded  by  the  Pride  of  India  or  China  Tree; 


Rail-roadi  in  Alabama. 


453 


its  numerous  picturf  <que  houses,  insulated  and  embellished 
by  gardens  rich  in  the  floral  beauty  and  vegetation  of  this 
inild  region,  the  abode  of  the  orange  and  fig ;  its  frequent 
open  squares  and  grassy  lawns,  and  the  plantations  in  the  vi- 
cinity, give  a  sylvan  agreeable  aspect  around  it,  to  a  stranger 
from  the  more  rigid  climate  of  the  north. 


It  has  been  severely  visited  and  purified  by  fire,  that  of 

'3  buildings,  principally 
wood;  loss  estimated  at  three  or  ibur  millions  of  dollars: 


January,  1820,  having  destroyed  46^ 


their  place  has  been  supplied  by  durable  brick  edifices,  and 
the  city  thus  essentially  benefited.  The  Exchange  is  five 
stories  high;  the  Academy  is  180  feet  front,  60  in  width,  built 
of  brick  and  stone;  as  is  the  handsome  Presbyterian  Church ; 
there  are  also  places  of  worship  for  Episcopalians,  Methodists, 
Baptists,  Lutherans,  Catholics,  Jews,  and  Africans;  also  a 
theatre,  jail,  poor*house,  hospital,  three  banks,  three  news* 
papers. 

The  cotton  here  exported  is  about  150,000  bales  a  year, 
valued  at  8,000,000  to  10,000,000 of  dollars;  besides  7,000  to 
10,000  tierces  of  rice,  and  some  tobacco.  Distances  118  miles 
south-west  of  Charleston,  123  by  land  south-east  of  Augusta, 
350  by  river ;  163  east-sauth-east  of  Milledgeville,  the  State 
^  capital.  In  1817  the  first  steum-boat  ascended  to  Augusta 
in  three  weeks ;  they  now  go  it  in  30  hours,  and  18  in  descend- 
ing. Above  Augusta  <?ole-boa*ts  go  up  100  miles  to  the  Kio- 
wee  and  Tugaloo,  to  Mullen's  Ford  160  miles,  and  return 
with  30  to  60  bales  of  cotton.  Tide  flows  up  but  25  miles; 
the  water  is  fresh  three  miles  from  the  city;  thus  far  navigated 
by  sea  vessels  with  two  to  3,000  bales  of  cotton,  at  five  fathom 
pole ;  it  is  250  yards  wide,  eight  feet  deep ;  opposite  the  city, 
the  river  with  its  islands  occupies  a  width  of  one  fourth  to 
half  a  mile. 


Rail-roads  In  Alabama* 

Wetumpka  to  Fort  WHliam  on  the  Coosa  River;  Wetumpka 
is  18  miles  north-east  of  Montgomery  by  land,  or  twice  that 
distance  by  the  sinuosities  of  the  river. 

The  Coosa  and  Wetumpka  Rail-road  is  making  in  the  val- 
ley of  the  Coosa,  for  60  miles,  to  avoid  the  Fish  Trap  and 
other  shoals,  and  to  unite  with  the  rail-road  through  Alabama, 
from  Mma  on  the  Alabama  River,  latitude  32^  30',  that  is 


(i 


!l. 


464 


Rail-roadt  in  Alabama, 


forming  through  the  Pleasant  and  Cabawba  Valleys,  due 
north,  north-eaBt  to  Huntaville,  Alabaima,  latitude  34°  45'. 
This  extensive  route  will  unite  with  the  HiWaasee  and 
Georgia  Rail-roads,  by  a  branch  diverging  to  the  north-east 
from  near  Asheville,  in  St.  Clair  County,  Alabama,  and  lead* 
ing  up  the  valley  of  the  Coosa  River,  near  Turkey  Town, 
and  through  the  recently  evacuated  Indian  or  Cherokee 
country,  to  near  New  Echota  in  Murray  County,  Georgia ; 
thus  tapping  the  great  arterial  vein  of  travel  from  north-east 
to  south-west,  and  attracting  a  portion  of  it  through  the  cen- 
tral, fairest,  and  richest  parts  of  Alabama,  towards  Mobile 
and  the  shores  of  the  Gulr  of  Mexico  and  New  Orleans. 

The  great  stale  of  Georgia,  after  seeming  to  slumber  for  a 
time  in  its  internal  improvements,  and  permitting  other  States 
to  go  ahead  rapidly  and  outvie  it,  awoke  at  last  to  the  vital 
importance  of  this  subject  in  time  to  redeem  its  reputation 
and  preserve  its  interest ;  and  has  thus  far  by  its  own  efibrts, 
and  granting  privileges  to  chartered  companies  enumerated, 
nearly  accomplished  a  continuous  lint  of  rdit-road  within  its 
own  borders  of  700  r^^iles,  in  a  direction  from  the  south-east 
at  Savannah  diagonally,  reaching  up  to  its  north-west  corner 
at  Rosa'  landing,  on  the  Tennessee.  Distance  from  Ross* 
via. New  Echota,  Cassville,  Marietta,  to  Decatur,  on  the 
Western  and  Atlantic  Rail-road,  made  by  State  authority 
!18  miles;  underthe  engineering  supervison  of  Col.  Long. 

Thence  is  69  miles  unfinished  to  Forsyth  ;  here  the^  AAm- 
rot  Company's  Rail-road  of  25  miles  is  completed  to  Macon, 
and  in  daily  operation.  The  capital  of  this  incorporation  ia 
$600,000,  with  liberty  to  raise  it  to  $1,200,000,  to  extend  it 
from  Forsyth  to  the  State  road  at  Decatur,  in  De  Kalb 
County;  a  company  is  also  chartered  to  form  a  rail-road 
from  Columbus  to  the  State  road,  distance  100  miles ;  capital 
$2,000,000.  From  Macon  to  Savannah  is  the  Central  Rail- 
road of  196  miles.  From  Decatur  to  Augusta  is  123  miles  of 
rail-road,  owned  by  the  Georgia  Rail-road  and  Banking  Com- 
pany. 

The  Raii-road  from  Savannah  to  Macon  is  to  extend  to 
Ttdbotton  in  Talbott  County;  thence  branches  will  go  to 
Columbus  in  Museogee  County,  also  to  Wtst  Point  in  Troup 
County,  both  on  the  Chat'.ahooche  River;  whence  lines  will 
go  through  Alabama,  from  both  places,  to  Montgoihiery  on 
the  Alabama  River,  thence  to  Pensacula  and  Mobile. 

(.For  rtmainier  of  matUr  relative  to  Oeorgia  tee  pages  466  (o  468.) 


Neit  Orkant, 


455 


■  .  ,    I       ,.;.      >.. 


BTcw  Orleans* 

The  city  of  New  Orleans  is  situated  fn  29°  57'  Ab"  north 
latitude,  and  13°  5'  Abf'  longitude  west  from  Washington. 
The  difference  between  New  Orleans  and  Paris  in  time  is  six 
hours,  nine  minutes,  15  seconds.  A  few  workmen  left  b^ 
Governor  Bienville  in  1718,  laid  the  foundation  of  the  ctpi« 
tal  of  Louisiana  and  emporium  of  the  west.  The  uneiam-* 
pled  increase  of  New  Orleans  since  the  cession  to  the  United 
States  in  1803,  attests  the  sagacity  of  its  founder.  It  was  in- 
corporated February  1 7th,  1805.    On  the 26lh  of  Dec««»''    ', 

1814,  IfOuisiana  was  invaded  by  a  British  army  ezceediiig 
112,000  in  number,  having  for  its  object  the  capture  of  the 
city.  Xhe  American  army,  consisting  of  3,500 effective  men, 
under  the  command  of  Major  General  Andrew  .1  ackson,  ar- 
rested the  progress  of  the  invaders,  and  finally  defeated  and 
repulsed  the  enemy  in  a  single  battle  on  the  8th  of  Januaryi 

1815,  about  five  miles  below  the  city.  On  the  Ist  of  April. 
1833,  the  suburbs  Nuns,  Lafayette,  and  Livanston  in  the 
parish  of  Jefferson,  were  incorporated  under  the  name,  City 
of  Lafayette.  The  population  in  1820  was  27,166,  at  present 
it  has  during  the  winter  and  spring  months  a  population,  in- 
cluding strangers  rnd  visiters,  of  upwards  of  100,000,  but 
during  the  summer  about  60,000,  including  the  city  of  La- 
fayette. The  Orleans  Navigation  Company,  incorporated 
the  3d  of  July,  1805,  is  in  full  operation.  The  Barataria  and 
Lafouche  Canal  Company,  incorporated  Februaiy  6th,  1829, 
has  for  its  object  the  communication  of  the  Bay  of  Barataria 
with  the  Mississippi,  and  Attacapas  with  New  Orleans.  The 
work  is  in  full  progress.  The  Pontchartrain  Rail-road  Com- 
pany, incorporated  January  20th,  1831,  is  finished  and  in  full 
operation  The  New  Orleans  Canal  and  Banking'  Company, 
incorporated  March  5th,1831,ha8  completed  the  New  Orleans 
Canal.  An  unsuccessful  attempt  was  made  to  plant  the  sugar 
cane  in  1766,  the  cultivation  of  the  cane  was  however  continu- 
ed on  a  small  scale  by  Messrs  Mendez  and  SoUs.  In  1796  Mr. 
Etienne  Bore  renewed  the  attempt,  and  his  enterprise  was  re- 
watded  by  a  crop  which  produced  12,000  pounds.  The  ex- 
ports of  cotton,  sugar,  tobacco,  and  molasses  in  1839,  were  as 
follows : 

967,949  balet  of  cotton  (  35,491  hogsheads  of  tobacco 


i\ 


V. 


466 


New  Orledns, 


3'2,95i  hogsheads  and  773  barrels  o(  sugar)  and  l'2,(i4d 
hogsheads  and  6,544  barrels  of  molasses. 

In  1832,  the  amount  of  articles  exported  was  as  follows: 
cotton  407,220  bags,  23,701  hogsheads  of  tobacco,  29,333 
hogsheads  and  3,287  barrels  of  sugar,  and  18,443  hogsheads 
and  11,576  barrels  of  molasses.  In  1839  the  exports  were 
much  greater.  The  value  of  all  the  exports  in  1839  was 
upwards  of  ^50,000,000.  The  number  of  ships,  brigs, 
schooners,  and  sloops,  arrived  at  New  Orleans  in  1830,  wss 
altogether  1,120,  besides  778  steam-boats  navigating  tho 
Mississippi,— 1833, 1,304  and  1,081  steamboats. 

The  annual  rise  and  fall  of  the  Mississippi  at  New  Orleans 
is  about  14  feet  six  inches. 

The  rise  usually  commences  in  November,  tho  latter  part, 
but  it  is  mostly  checked  by  the  frost  in  December  and  Jan* 
uary;  the  general  rise  commences  with  the  breakt  ?  up  of 
the  ice  about  the  Kt  of  February,  and  the  river  :  "^  a  its 
greatest  height  from  March  until  June.  The  ^juiifiiissippi 
has  in  the  vicinity  of  New  Orleans  a  fall  of  one  inch  per 
mile,  whilst  towards  the  Balise  it  has  a  fall  of  about  eight 
feet  in  100  miles,  and  towards  Natchez  five  and  one-twelfth 
inches  every  three  miles. 

Public  Edifices.  The  cathedral,  city  hall,  court  house,  seve* 
ral  markets,  Orleans  Cotton  Press  Company,  custom  house, 
hospUals,  churches,  Louisiana  Sugar  Refinery^  State  House, 
American  Theatre,  French  Theatre,  two  Consents,  Colleges, 
several  banks,  three  Catholic,  Presbyterian,  Epiacopal, 
Baptist,  and  Methodist  Churches. 

Along  the  levee  in  the  busy  season  is  2,000  flat  boats  and 
all  kind~  of  river  craft,  and  several  thousand  boatmen ;  a 
host  of  steam-boats  also  are  here  displayed;  others  also  oi. 
Lake  Pontchartrain  at  the  rail- road  landing. 

The  width  of  the  River  Mississippi  is  here  over  half  a 
mile*  its  depth  about  50  fathoms.  The  French,  English, 
Spanish,  German,  and  other  languages  are  here  commonly 
used. 

The  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  for  many  miles  above  and 
below  the  nucleus  of  city  population^ have  been  laid  out  in 
streets  and  squares  by  speculators,  in  anticipation  of  future 
times.  The  sudden  revulsion  of  1836  to  1840  has  caused  a 
pause  in  these  wild  schemes ;  but  the  irresistible  whirl  {4' 
commerce  and  prosperity  will  gradually  bo  restored,  a^d 
continue  like  the  mighty  current,  to  tho  end  of  time.       ;  '^ 


I  ' 


RouUb  from  Neio  Orleam, 


iby 


Routes  from  JVew  Orleans* 


»g* 


New  Orleans  to  Nashville,  via  Pass  MaiiebaC)  Tangi* 
pan,  Madison,  Covington,  Franklinton,  Jacksonville,  Mi- 
neral Spring,  Holmesville,  Monticello,  on  Pearl  River,  Brook- 
haven,  Qallatin,  Jackson,  on  Pearl  River,  Brandon,  Carthage, 
Canton,  Kosciusko,  Lexington,  Carrolton,  Cofieeville,  Ox- 
ford, Jefierson,  Clarendon,  Greensboro',  Houston,  Pon- 
totol,  Tishornings,  Jacinto,  Tennessee  River,  Muscle  Shoals. 
The  rail-road  that  is  to  extend  to  Nashville,  begins  on 
the  west  side  of  New  Orleans,  and  pursues  a  north-west 
direction,  and  in  13  miles  is  on  the  border  o^ Lake  Pont" 
chartrain,  where  there  is  a  hotel  and  a  watering-place,  and  a 
wide  and  noble  prospect  of  the  blue  expanse  of  the  lake,  and 
of  the  boundless  prairie,  with  its  tall  grass  and  ocean  of  ver- 
dure, in  contrast  to  the  liquid  expanse  on  the  east.  Winding 
around  to  the  north,  between  Lakes  Maurepas  and  Pontchar* 
train,  the  scenery  is  interesting,  as  on  the  whole  route  from 
New  Orleans,  and  also  picturesque,  pleasing,  and  imposing. 
The  prairie  alone  is  aui  eye- feast,  and  the  vicinity  of  the  me- 
tropolis of  the  Mississippi  and  Gulf  of  Mexico  here  unfolds 
a  flreat  variety  of  new  objects  of  contemplation  to  the  gra- 
tified traveler. 

The  mechanism  of  the  drawbridge  over  which  the  steam^ 
cars  cross  the  canal  is  to  be  obsenred ;  a  fixed  steam  engine 
moves  the  bridge  entire,  for  passing,  in  half  a  minute,  and  re^ 
places  it  in  a  few  seconds ;  this  operation  by  hand  would  re- 
quire an  hour.  The  rail  track  is  laid  at  the  rate  of  two  miles 
each  month,  and  is  finished  to  Sal  ranches  plantation  30  miles, 
and  on  to  Pass  Manchac ;  here  the  produce  and  commerce  of 
the  lake  shore  and  vicinity  comes  into  this  new  re  vfe  to  New 
Orleans.  Marketing,  firewood,  lumber^  vegetables,  fruit, 
heahhy  milk,  grain,  d^c.  all  pour  In,  cuttmg  up  the  monopo* 
lixer84 


New  Orleans  to  Mobile,  Fcnsaeola,  Mont« 
gomery,  West  Point,  Madison,  Gains- 
boro%  Angnsta»  Charleston. 

,  New  Orleans  to  Mobile  is  near  190  miles  by  lake,  canal, 
tnd  land;  fare  $13  00.  The  bayou  St.  John  csnal,  or  rail- 

39 


\v 


\» 


458 


Atobite. 


ff 


road,  all  conduct  the  traveler  speedily  to  the  snores  of  the 
lake.  The  bayou  is  rather  sluggish,  but,  like  all  others,  is  a 
vent  to  the  great  river  and  lake,  and  used  as  a  canal  through 
cedar  swamps. 

Lake  Pontchartrain  trends  west  to  east,  and  is  35  miles 
long  and  26  miles  wide,  and  12  to  20  feet  derp;  its  outlet  to 
the  ocean  on  the  east  is  through  Lake  Borgi^e,  by  the  Pats 
Chef  Menteufand  the  Rigolets,  that  are  guarded  and  forti'^ 
fied,  and  the  exterior  Pass  Marian,  near  east  and  south  Pass 
Islands ;  on  the  north-west  it  touches  Lake  Maurepas,  and  by 
the  Amitie  and  Iberville  bayous  the  Mississippi  above  Pla- 
guimiii£,  and  below  Baton  Rouge.  Its  shores  are  very  low, 
ind  on  the  north  border  is  Madisonville,  a  place  of  resort  for 

'tens  of  New  Orleans. 
>  ,,«  ;  Borgne  il  a  similar  expanse  that  extends  from  the 
south  ivest  branch  near  the  English  7>trn,  40  miles  north-> 
east,  to  the  bayou  of  St.  Louis  find  BUaxi,  the  old  French  Set- 
llement  west  of  the  mouth  of  the  Paseagoula  River  and  its 
delta  of  low  islands.  Portersville  is  32  miles  from  Mobile. 

Thus  far  the  steam-boat  comes,  and  hence  to  Mobile  re* 
sort  is  had  to  stages,  that  conduct  over  level  poor  pine  land, 
with  swamps  and  ponds,  for  20  miles  to  Sjning  Hill,  from 
whence  to  J^obUe  is  a  pleasant  gay  drive  of  twelve  miles* 


"«  jH;,;^ 


mobile* 


The  public  buildings  in  Mobile,  are  the  City  Hotel,  Alaba- 
ma Hotel,  Dauphin-street  Hotel,  Government-street  Hotel, 
Michael- street  Hotel,  Theatre,  Catholic  Church,  Episcopal 
Church,  Presbyterian  Church,  Baptist  Church,  Methodist 
Church,  African  Church,  Mansion  House,  Court  House,  Mar* 
ket,  Seminary,  Custom  House,  and  United  States  Court 
Room,  City  Hospital,  Mobile  Bank,  Planters*  and  Merchants' 
Bank,  Branch  of  State  Bank,  Barton  Academy,  Unitarian 
Church ;  there  are  46  wharves.  In  1827,  170  buildings  were 
burned ;  in  1839, 600  more  destroyed^ 

There  are  300  blocks  or  squares,  laid  out  south  of  Canal - 
street,  350  north  of  Canal,  and  west  of  river,  Commerce* 
street  next  to  the  river,  then  Water,  Magnolia,  Royal,  Ema- 
nuel, Joseph,  Conception,  Jackson,  Joachim,  Claiborne, 
Franklin,  Hamilton,  Lawrence,  Cedar,  Rowen,  Dearborn, 
Wilkinson,  Scott,  Bayou,  Jefferson,  Broad,  Spring  Hilk 


Mobile. 


Crom-streett,  Madison,  East* street,  Monroe,  Church,  and 
Theatre,  GovernmeDt,  Conti,  Dauphin,  Francis,  Michael, 
Louis,  Anthony,  Bloodgood,  State,  Congresa,  Adama,  Lips- 
comb, Hunt. 

As  a  cotton  mart  and  place  of  export,  Mobile  is  next  in 
import!  ce  to  New  Orleans  and  Charleston,  having  exported 
250,000  bales  a  year.  Its  site  is  dry  and  pleasant ;  its  har- 
bor ehoal;  the  channel  circuitous.  Back  of  the  town  aro 
swamps  and  ponds;  in  front  is  a  low  marshy  island. 

Whilo  under  the  Spanish  and  French  domination,  this 
place  languished;  it  has  of  late  risen  rapidly,  though  often 
checked  by  heavy  conflagrations ;  rebuilt  soon,  usually  in 
an  improved  st^le. 

This  place  is  frequented  and  enlivened  by  many  steam- 
boats, that  in  a  short  run  down  the  bay,  and  along  the  Lakes 
Borgne  and  Ponchartrain,  to  the  rail-road  connect  it  with 
New  Orleans ;  also  when  the  rivers  are  high,  the  interior 
trade  to  Montgomery  and  other  places  is  brisk.  Fort  Bowyer, 
or  Morgan,  is  its  protection  at  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  30 
miles  below  the  citv,  on  a  long,  low,  sahdy  point,  opposite 
Dauphin  Island.  This  fort  was  attacked  15th  September, 
1814,  by  he  British,  when  they  were  defeated  and  lost  a 
ship ;  on  the  15th  February,  1815,  after  the  battle  of  New 
Orleans,  but  before  the  news  of  peace  had  reached  that 
quarter  of  the  country,  they  again  attacked  and  carried  this 
weak  military  position  by  an  overwhelming  force. 

The  population  is  estimated  at  10,000  during  the  busy 
season. 

Mobile  was  established  by  the  French  about  the 

year        .        ...        .        .        .        1700 

,  France  ceded  it  to  England  by  treaty,  in  .  .  1763 
.  England  surrendered  it  to  Spain  in  .  .  1780 
.   Spain  do.        to  the  Americans.  April  5th,    1813 

:    Was  incorporated  as  a  town,  April  20th,  .    1814 

Do.        do.  do.    city,  December  17th,  .        1819 

Latitude  30°  40'.  Longitude  west  from  Washington  City, 
11°  15'  30".  Longitude  west  from  Greenwich,  88°  IT. 

Mobile  by  water  to  Montgomery,  406  miles.  ^ 

Do.     by  land  to  do.  only  180    do. 

The  Tmsaw  and  Mobile  Rivers,  the  outlet  of  the  Ala- 
bama and  Toinbigbee,  emp^  into  the  estuary  of  the  bay  of 
Mobile,  through  a  labyrinth  of  islands  and  .channels,  form- 
ing an  intricate  delta.    The  Alabama  is  a  river  to  be  com- 


I  \ 


% » 


460 


Mobile  to  Blakely. 


pared  in  size  with  the  Delaware  or  Hudion  in  average  width ; 
Its  banks,  at  times  lofty  or  low,  subject  to  floods  of  50  or  60 
feet,  are  richly  wooded  with  a  mass  of  luxuriant  foliage,  and 
among  its  forest  trees  we  see  the  magnolia,  grandiflora, 
gum  tree,  hackberry,  plane,  maple,  many  varieties  of  oak 
and  dogwood. 

Route  by  land  to  Augusta,  (Georgia,)  Blakely  to  Colum- 
bus on  the  Chattahoochee  River,  Georgia,  Rocky  Hill  9, 
Taitsviile  38,  Burnt  Corn  46,  Greenville  46,  Hickory  Grove 
31,  Pintetata  10,  Montgomery  13,  Fort  Meigs  13,  Tuskegce 
37,  Foft  Mitchell  40,  Columbus  10. 

Mobile  to  Huntsville  is  373  miles,  via  Blakely  11,  Clai- 
borne 71,  Dale  Town  51,  Cahawba  31,  Selma  ll,Monte- 
vallo  59,  £lyton  40,*  Blount's  Springs  31,  Somerville  42, 
Triana  10,  Huntsville  16. 

Mobile  to  Blakely,  13  miles  by  water  around  Marshy  Isl- 
ands, covered  with  cane  and  shallows.  The  town  has  a  good 
appearance,  and  is  well  situated  on  an  elevated  position. 

Blakely  to  Pensacola  is  65  miles ;  at  the  ArH  is  a  grove  of 
live  oaks  and  bush  palms ;  the  Spanish  bayonet,  a  kind  of 
macaw  tree,  is  here  seen  as  the  hill  is  ascended,  that  gives  a 
good  retrospective  view  of  the  bay  and  the  deserted  town 
with  a  few  houses,  the  valley  with  its  meandering  streams 
and  rich  vegetation,  magnolias,  laurels,  and  the  water-oak , 
a  bushy  evergreen. 

In  one  mile  these  give  place  to  sand  and  the  long-leaved 
pine,  and  here  and  there  plantations  that  cultivate  the  dry 
rice^  that  yields  50  bushels  an  acre,  but  little  inferior  to  the 
swamp  rice  of  Carolina.  The  33d  mile  is  at  Belle  Fontaine  ; 
here  is  a  log-house  and  a  clearing,  and  in  13  miles  the  west 
bank  of  the  Ferdido  River  and  bay,  the  boundary  line  that 
divides  Alabama  from  West  Florida,  and  formerly  the  east 
boundary  .  <"  Louisiana,  as  purchased  by  the  United  States 
from  France. 

Ferdido  River  is  small ;  the  bay  is  a  considerable  expanse 
of  water,  shallow  and  unimportant ;  the  shores  sandy,  with 
the  bushy  palmettos  and  pines,  that  as  we  advance  give 
place  to  dwarf  oaks  or  water  oaks  in  marshes. 


-•i»i^v:f^- 


Pensacola* 


Pensacola  has    about  two  thousand  inhabitants,  and  is 
pleasantly  situated  on  a  dry  sandy  plain,  20  feet  above  the 


Feruacola, 


461 


sea  and  10  miles  from  the  entrance  into  the  bay,  that  it  18 
miles  long  and  three  to  seven  wide,  trending  north  and  south, 
and  is  the  best  harbor  on  the  Gulf;  having  twenty>one  feet 
OD  the  bar,  and  deepening  to  seven  or  eight  fathoms ;  is  land- 
locked and  safe  from  all  winds,  and  is  now  the  naval  depdt 
of  the  United  States,  for  the  ships  that  cruise  on  the  Mexican 
and  West  Indian  statious. 

It  is  noted  for  its  salubrity  and  exemption  from  yellow 
fever,  owing  to  the  dryness  of  the  air  and  there  not  being 
any  swamps  near.  The  pure  breezes  from  the  ba^  and  the 
pine-clothed  ridges  inland  are  the  guarantees  oi  its  safety 
from  disease.  •  ^  ,^;t  '^ys's'.;  ?■ 

The  town  is  in  north  latitude  30°  23'  43^'  and  in  longitude 
10*^  from  Washington,  and  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay, 
and  has  a  neat  market-house  on  the  margin  of  the  beach  on 
Ferdinand  Square,  and  near  by  is  the  Custom  House,  Ca- 
tholic Church,  Court  House,  and  Jail,  old  Calaboose,  and 
the  United  States  Public  Store.  The  streets  are  at  right  an- 
gles, and  those  parallel  with  the  bay  are  Government,  Hos- 
pital, Intendentia,  Romana,  Garden ;  and  those  at  right  an- 
{;les  are  Balen,  Pallafax,  and  Alcarex- streets.  The  two 
alter  front  the  public  square,  and  Hospital  street  and  the 
bay  are  its  other  sides.  Forts  St.  Michael  and  St.  Bernard. 
The  I*favy  Yard  includes  80  acres  of  land  within  high  brick 
walls ;  it  appears  well  in  coming  in  from  sea.  The  officers*  re- 
sidences are  neat  two  story  buildings,  with  balconies ;  there 
is  a  large  naval  store  of  brick,  a  shed  for  timber,  a  sail  loflr, 
and  shop  for  blacksmiths  ;  the  grounds  are  well  and  taste- 
fully laid  out ;  neat  gardens  are  attached  to  the  quarters  of 
the  officers  stationed  here. 

Fort  Pickens  on  the  San  Rosa,  or  south-east  side  of  the 

bay,  has  280  gufis  of  the  largest  calibre ;  the  channel  for  ves- 

.  sels  over  300  tons  leads  close  to  this  formidable  battery, 

thence  to  the  large  Fort  on  Foster's  Bank,  nearly  opposite : 

:-  vessels  venturing  to  pass  are  thus  exposed  to  a  most  destruc- 

i  tivti  cross  fire,  also  to  the  point  blank  shot  of  the  San  Carlos 

Fortf  At  the  Barrancas,  ArBt  built  by  the  Spaniards ;  repaired 

and  rebuilt  by  the  United  States  recently,  after  having  lain 

in  ruins  several  years  since  its  capture  by  General  Jackson 

in  1814.    A  wharf  extends  out  600  feet  to  the  edge  of  the 

.  shoal;  the  houses  are  low  one  story  buildings,  and  are  color- 

.'  less  and  far  from  attractive,  except  some  ofrecent  erection  ; 

here  is  a  bank,  three  churches,  four  hotels,  City  Hall. 

39* 


I    I  N't 


462 


Vicinity  of  Pentacola, 


The  white  sand,  daEsling  the  eyes  almoit  to  blindnetf  in 
the  hot  season,  is  annoying,  but  the  regular  land  and  sea 
breeEes  are  pleasant  to  mitigate  the  suhnness. 

A  new  quarter  or  suburb  is  about  arising  at  the  old  Baran- 
cas  or  broken  high  ground,  half  mile  from  the  shore,  or  San 
Carlos  Fort  block-house,  that  overlooks  the  whole  bay  in 
the  most  enticing  manner;  this  village  is  halfway  from  the 
harbor's  mouth  to  the  Navy  Yard;  the  city  is  eight  miles 
above. 

From  the  elevated  site  of  the  village  of  the  Barancas,  the 
eye  ranges  over  the  distant  gulf  and  low  long  islands  of  St. 
Rosas  to  the  east,  covered  with  small  trees  or  shrubs,  while 
the  spectator  is  situated  under  a  grove  of  large  umbrageous 
live  oak  trees  of  great  age,  that  have  been  preserved  fortu- 
nately from  destruction. 

The  old  half-moon  fort  in  its  days  of  streugtth  was  at  the 
foot  of  a  hill,  that  had  on  its  summit  a  block-house,  now 
in  ruins;  the  fort  was  capable  of  strong  resistance;  it  had  a 
covered  way  that  led  to  the  block-house.  In  the  rear  is  the 
old  burial-ground  of  the  Spaniards,  now  used  by  the  Ame- 
ricans. 

Ariola  in  1689  was  sent  by  Spain  to  erect  a  fort  at  Ar- 
chasa^  the  Indian  name  of  the  bay ;  this  he  did  at  the  site  of 
the  Barancas,  and  also  added  a  church  and  a  few  dwelling- 
houses.  In  1719  Bienville,  the  French  commander,  broke  up 
this  post.  In  1763  the  English  look  Florida,  and  held  it  for 
twenty  years.  During  this  period  Florida  was  in  its  glory; 
settlements  were  formed,  Pensacola  was  laid  out  with  regu- 
larity and  beauty;  but  at  the  return  of  the  Spaniards,  anarchy 
and  ruin  again  overspread  the  country  for  many  years,  and 
it  has  not  yet  had  a  respite  from  a  constant  succession  of 
war,  carnage,  iniquity,  and  misgovcrnment. 

Climate,  the  first  and  last  consideration,  and  of  vital  impor- 
tance to  all  visiters  here,  that  may  be  attracted  from  northern 
regions  in  search  of  a  more  genial  and  mild  atmosphere,  is 
here  put  on  a  footing  that  yields  to  no  other  part  of  the  United 
States  as  a  safe  residence  for  those  desirous  to  escape  from 
the  rigors  of  a  northern  winter. 

The  completion  of  the  rail-road  hence  to  Montgomery,  and 
through  the  State  of  Georgia  to  Augusta  and  Charleston, 
will  open  a  new,  safe,  and  rapid  conveyance  in  six  days  from 
New- York  to  Pensacola,  and  vice  vefsa,  ih«it  cannot  but 
greatly  increase  the  general  travel  in  both  directions. 


Ceota  Valley— Pleatant  Valley, 


46S 


The  distance  to  Montgomery  it  about  190  miles  north* 
north>eait  from  Pensacola,  and  from  thence  to  Columbus  on 
the  Chattahooche  due  east  about  70  miles,  or  to  West  Point, 
a  little  further  north  on  the  same  stream,  about  80  miles. 

Alabama  River  is  navigable  for  itcam-boats  to  .the  union  of 
the  Cooca  and  Tallapooga;  a  few  miles  from  this  the  rapids 
commence  on  the  Coosa,  and  are  seen  for  sixty  miles,  but  are 
covered  at  high  water;  then  steamboats  can  ascend  in  deep 
smooth  water  200  miles  to  near  its  source,  almost  touching  a 
branch  of  the  Tennessee. 

Coosa  Valley  is  extensive  and  well  known,  and  contains 
the  river  of  that  name. 

Pleasant  Valley  extending  north  from  Selma  in  range  17 
above  Cahawba  for  70  miles,  there  unites  with  Cahawba 
Valley,  that  trends  to  the  north-east  60  miles,  and  reaches  to 
the  hilly  region  near  Ashimbo  in  St.  Clair  County.  In  this 
prolonged  valley  is  the  main  road  through  the  centre  of  the 
State,  and  is  to  be  the  rail-road  from  the  south  to  the  north. 

From  the  union  of  Coosa  and  Tallapoosa  the  Alabama 
runs,  westerly  100  miles,  but  only  50  in  a  direct  line  to  CahnO' 
da,  coming  in  from  north,  the  banks  50  feet  above  low  water, 
(the  river  in  winter  rising  that  much,)  striped  with  layers  of 
clay  of  variegated  colors,  so  pure  that  thev  are  used  for  paint, 
and  are  of  red  and  deep  blue,  to  a  fine  white,  soft  and  unctu- 
ous, ofone  inch  to  several  feet  in  thickness;  20  feet  is  their 
line  above  low  water.       a  .m*  ra«?#M- 

Shells  displaying  a  fine  display  of  colors  are  found  in  the 
islands,  also  small  gravel;  on  the  prairies  west  of  Cahawba 
is  lime-stone  and  shell  lime-stone ;  in  the  regionto  the  south, 
towards  the  gulf,  also  salt  springs. 

From  Selma  north  for  45  miles  it  is  hilly,  with  few  rocks ; 
there  is  seen  large  boulders  of  granite,  but  none  in  place  un- 
til 15  miles  further  north  is  the  gray  secondary  lime-stopf . 
For  70  miles  it  is  then  hilly  to  mountainous,  rising  to  300  or 
400  feet  above  the  valley,  with  red  and  gray  sand  and  lime- 
stone, level  for  60  miles,  but  elevated  at  Tf^pnessee  River, 
the  descent  to  it  for  a  mile  being  very  steep,  jkirted  by  lime- 
stone. In  the  midst  of  this  extensive,  fertile,  and  rich  vale  is 
the  charming  town  of  Huntsviile. 

Claiborne,  80  miles  above  MobUe,  is  a  ftmall  settlement 
on  a  bluff  300  feet  high,  a  little  way  from  ti\ie  river,  and  is 
a  landing-place  of  flight  import,  as  is  Pertlsftd  a  little  farther 
Up  the  river;  also  BlackfviilU,  Canton,  Fprtland,  M%t  in 


I  f 


Route  bff  iteatn-boat  down  the  Alabama  River. 

tuecession,  and  then  Cahawba,  the  old  leat  of  goTernmonl, 
at  the  junction  of  the  Alabama  and  Cahawba  Rivera;  here 
are  but  few  houses  of  inferior  description.  It  is  11  miles 
from  Selma. 

Montgomery,  on  the  Alabama  River,  in  the  next  range  be- 
low the  Coosa  and  Tallapoosa  Rivers,  has  2,000  inhabitants ; 
the  streets  are  broad  and  the  houses  decent,  and  tho  place 
is  lively,  it  being  on  the  great  public  road  and  thoroughfarti 
from  the  south-west  to  the  north-east.  (Population  of  Ala- 
bama 508,054 ;  whites,  282,338 ;  blacks,  823,897 ;  froe,  1,819.) 

Montgomery  to  Augusta,Georgia,  is  289  miies,via  Walker's 
25,  Fort  BainbridgeSl,  Fort  Mitchell  on  Chattahoochee  is  25, 
Cunnels  33,  Flint  River  28,  Macon  31,  MilledgeVille  30, 
Sparta  22,  Augusta  64,  Charleston  136. 

As  we  leave  Montgomery  for  the  east,  we  pass  a  number 
of  pleasant  residences  of  the  planters  in  a  few  miles,  their 
houses  of  two  stories,  painted  white,  with  piazzas  and  balco- 
nies :  the  soil  of  a  dark  rich  description,  well  cultivated  in 
cotton  and  corn ;  the  forest  trees  bemg  the  lofty  live  oak  and 
other  oaks,  magnolia,  and  macrophylas,  wherever  the  mois- 
ture of  the  ground  admits  of  such  a  growth.  After  arriving  at 
and  passing  the  line  of  the  Old  Creek  boundary  amid  a  roost 
luxuriant  vegetation  for  several  miles,  a  long  causeway  over 
a  marsh  is  encountered,  and  then  a  bridge  300  feet  long;  af- 
ter that  a  diversity  of  good  and  bad  country ;  and  in  a  few 
miles  a  considerable  stream  with  a  bridge  80O  feet  in  length, 
followed  by  another  causeway  over  a  swamp  of  a  mile  in 
width,  with  noble  specimens  of  the  magnolia  80  feet  high, 
,  and  beautiful  evergreens  pervading  the  banks  of  the  creeks 
and  marshy  spots. 


i^i- 


Route  by  steam-boat  down  the  Alabama 
River  to  Mobile. 


*w 


Perhaps  some  travelers  arriving  at  Montgomery  from  the 

east  by  stage  or  rail-road  may  be  desirous  of  floating  down 

'  the  Alabama  to,  Mobile  by  steam-boat,  for  the  sake  of  change 

or  variety,  or  to  rest  their  weary  limbs,  though  the  distaoco 

is  much  more  than  by  land.  <^ 

Near  this  place  (Montgomery)  the  banks  of  the  rivor  are 

high,  and  consist  of  red  earth  with  flint,  and  have  a  growth 

'of  willows;  in  18  miles  we  arrive  at  Washington,  and  piss- 


>•/    i(r-f'w'«f'7itt*i   M>  L'ittibovne*  »»l  4*a  *.« 


465 


ing  on  our  left  the  "  Holy  Ground  "  of  Ihe  Creek  Indiang,  and 
clie  landing  uf  Vernon,  Autau<;a,  and  Selma,  on  the  nortli 
bank ;  the  general  width  of  the  river  being  300  yards  or  lets. 
The  right  bank  is  60  feet  high,  the  left  not  lo  much;  the 
strata  of  clay  and  soil  elsewhere  alluded  to,  arc  here  also 
evident. 

Both  shores  are  wooded  close  to  the  edge  with  willows, 
and  farther  back  are  oaks,  planes,  hickories,  and  other  nuts, 
beech,  ash,  elder,  and  tall  green  canes. 

Flocks  of  bujEzards,  wild  geese,  and  ducks  are  seen  in  the 
season. 

The  river  is  remarkably  winding,  and  has  many  islands 
and  sand  banks  in  it.  At  Cahawba  the  right  bank  of  the 
river  is  rather  high,  and  since  the  seat  of  the  State  Govern- 
ment is  transferred  to  TutcaUosa,  its  glory  and  prosperity 
has  departed.  A  bad  road  leads  up  to  the  village,  that  has 
two  very  bruad  streets  that  intersect  at  right  angles  :  some 
of  the  houses  are  of  brick,  others  are  of  wood  at  a  distance 
from  each  other. 

Below  Cahawba,  the  banks  of  the  river  are  occasionally  100 
feet  high,  of  steep  sand  stone  rock  with  gushing  springs. 

ClMthome  is  on  an  eminence  nn  the  left  bank  of  the  river. 
In  three  miles  is  Wiggins'  Landing,  the  settlement  being  on 
a  height,  among  tall,  thin,  old  oak  trees,  with  a  very  pic- 
turesque appearance,  with  the  Spanish  moss  dangling  from 
the  trees :  near  thii  place  was  a  stockade  in  the  Indian  wars. 
Gov.  Claiborne,  when  in  Congress  in  1801,  gave  the  casting 
vote  in  the  presidential  election  in  favor  of  Jefferson,  and 
against  Burr,  and  was  made  Governor  of  Louisiana,  and  took 
possession  of  it  when  first  acquired  from  the  French  in  1803 
for  $15,000,000. 

Hence  the  shores  subside  by  degrees,  but  continue  wood- 
ed with  oak  and  covered  by  long  moss,  with  a  thick  under 
growth  of  cane  20  feet  high.  The  shores  here  being  liable  to 
be  submerged,  are  thinly  inhabited,  and  cut  up  into  bayoui 
and  islands.  The  uni)n  of  the  Alabama  and  Tombigbee 
forms  the  Mobile  River.  Three  miles  below  is  Fort  Stoddart, 
on  the  right  bank  and  the  3l8t  degree  of  north  latitude, 
once  the  boundary  between  the  United  States  and  Spain. 

The  river  increases  to  half  a  mile  in  width.  The  dia- 
tance  is  408  miles  by  water,  196  miles  by  land,  yet,  owing  to 
bsd  roads,  the  river  route  is  used  occasionally. 


n 


\» 


Route  by  land  to  A«gu$tay  Georgia,  8fC. 


Vt^di       tS^A  .^..^K      1. 


Route  by  land  to  Ani^vstu,  OeoryiAy 
throuyh  Alabama*  -'' 

(S«€  page  4640 

On  the  road,  a  few  milet  before  arriving  at  Fort  Mitchell, 
are  eininencei  that  give  a  view  of  the  country  around.  The 
road  is  sandy  and  heavy ;  pine  trees  the  prevalent  growth. 

The  soil  here  assumes  a  reddish  yellow  hue,  and  the  trees 
are  of  the  hickory  and  nut-bearing  tribes,  oaks,  &c.  the  road 
then  becomes  unpleasant  and  hilly  for  a  few  miles  before  we 
arrive  at  the  Little  and  Great  Uchee  Rivers^  that  are  spanned 
by  bridges,  wh«n  we  plunge  intaa  region  of  oaks  and  hicko- 
ries,  succeeded  by  pines,  with  the  same  reddish  yellow  soil, 
that  in  a^  few  miles  is  supplanted  by  sandy  and  poor  land, 
with  the  eternal  pine  trees,  that  continues  through  a  very 
hilly  country  to  the  old  Fort  Bainbridge  or  United  States 
•Agency,  81  miles  from  Montgomery. 

From  this  to  the  ChtUtahoochee  River  is  25  miles,  M'hen  we 
are  near  the  old  Fort  Mitchell,  that  is  to  the  north  of  the  old 
ferry  road  on  an  eminence. 

Columbus,  11  milea  north,  is  at  the  falls  on  tl  ^t  of  the 
Chattahoochee,  and  has  been  founded  about  10  j curs-,  hero 
is  a  bridge.  The  river  at  the  falls  is  only  350  feet  wide,  but 
soon  widens  to  750  feet. 

The  town  is  60  feet  above  the  river,  and  covers  1,200  acres 
level  surface.  Two  of  the  streets  running  north  and  south, 
parallel  with  the  river,  are  165  feet  wide,  and  six  others  are 
J 32  feet,  and  the  12  that  intersect  are  99  feet  wide. 
V  Much  praise  is  due  to  those  that  laid  the  plan  on  such  a 
liberal  scale,  that,  aided  as  It  has  been  since  by  an  intermix- 
ture of  shade  ornamental  trees  with  the  native  forest,  makes 
it  a  desirable  residence. 

<  The  614  half  acre  lots  each  brought  from  $100  to  $1,859 
in  July,  1828,  when  there  were  900  persons  on  the  ground 
in  temporary  huts ;  and  in  December  there  were  100  framed 
buildings  finished  and  neatly  painted. 

There  is  a  fall  of  1 1 1  feet  in  four  mUe$  up  above  the  town ; 
and  as  the  water  is  clear  and  good,  and  brought  to  the  place 
in  aqueducts,  it  gives  a  facility  in  making  jets  and  fountains. 
The  distance  to  the  confluence  with  the  Flint  River  is  300 
miles,  to  Appalachicola  Bay  460  miles,  taking  52  to  86  houra 
to  descend  by  steam.    It  is  128  miles  west-south- west  of 


■^j.'Ji.-^'i'.'k.i  jlki*i'ui.>..v,'vii^'. 


Columbu*  on  the  ChaUakoochee. 


467 


•»■« 


Milledgoville.  The  best  road  for  carriages  when  the  season 
is  dry  is  via  Clinton  and  Forsyth. 

The  stores  are  well  supplied,  and  the  warehouses  filled 
with  cotton,  and  the  place  with  planters  and  strangers,  and 
girinj^  life  and  animation  to  trade. 

The  river  front  is  truly  wild  and  pleasant,  as  the  gardens 
interspersed  exhibit  taste,  comfort,  and  wealth  easily  ac- 
quired. ;  >^'t', 

Columbus  being  at  the  head  of  steam  navigation,  and  hav- 
ing abundant  water-power  and  a  fertile  cotton-growing 
country  around,  has  grown  to  be  a  place  of  much  considera- 
tion, and  the  new  rail-roads  leading  to  and  from  it  render 
it  a  great  thoroughfare.    The  population  is  2,600. 

From  Columbus  the  rail-road  is  to  extend  to  Talbottown, 
thence  to  Macon  and  Savannah. 

^The  west  bank  of  the  ChMllahoochee  at  Fwt  Mitchell  is 
steep,  and  composed  of  the  red  earths  before  alluded  to ;  the 
east  bank  is  lower  and  marshy,  covered  with  willows,  laurel, 
and  cane,  but  on  rising  b«  rond  these  we  again  encounter  a 
hilly  country,  green  thickets,  laurel  bushes,  and  at  intervals 
a  clay  and  sandy  soil  followed  by  pines,  quite  uninteresting 
ft>r  61  miles,  the  last  part,  though,  being  a  handsome  tract  on 
the  bank  of  the  Flint  River,  a  rapid  stream  that  rushes 
over  a  rocky  bed  between  very  steep  banks  -j  and  here  was 
an  United  States  Agency  for  the  Creek  Indians,  21,000  in 
number.  Ho-o-no-te-as-kah  was  the  Indian  name  for  the 
place. 

From  this  to  Macon^  31  miles,  we  pass  through  a  more 
wild  country,  with  log  huts,  oceasiooally  sandy,  rocky,  and 
tineven,  with  pine  woods,  and  again  canes  in  low  marshy 
spots,  and  oaks,  laurels,  and  evergreens. 

The  east  head  of  Flint  River  is  in  De  Kalb,  and  the  west 
in  Campbell  County ;  its  entire  course  is  300  miles ;  its  depth 
at  the  union  with  the  Chattahoochee  is  six  feet ;  breadth  there 
450  feet,  admitting  steam-boats  to  go  up  to  Baiobridge,  50 
miles  farther. 

The  Chattahoochee  River  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  State, 
and  rises  in  Habersham  County,  and  receiving  several 
branches,  runs  south-west,  and  at  33®  bends  to  the  south, 
and  has  a  winding  channel  360  miles,  where  it  meets,  at  the 
aouth-west  corner  ef  the  State,  the  flintf  and  forms  the 

AppalaChiCOlt,-.'^^r>    •./.l,'-*Ji'!>-.:-    ,,,,-Wf     '  '-.,.        --.-..,;;    i^;,,        f:     ;,.(     ;>.«     ' 


mm 


{\ 


ii 


m 


'•^.;^M 


Vicinity  of  Macon. 


i>j\:! 


It  was  first  explored  by  steam-boats  in  182t,  and  is  56(7 
miles  long  and  760  feet  wide  at  the  mouih  of  the  Flint. 

The  principal  rapids  are  from  Columbus  to  Miller's  Bendf 
30  miles,  and  to  this  spot  boats  descend  from  De  Kalb  and 
the  upper  counties  in  the  vicinity  with  produce. 
^  When  the  river  is  quite  low«  ail  the  water  at  Columbus 
runs  in  a  width  of  3U  or  40  feet  and  rushes  over  the  falls 
with  great  velocity. 

A  branch  issues  from  a  springy  in  the  mountains,  900  yards 
from  the  source  of  the  Hiwassee,  that  runs  west  into  the 
Tennessee. 

The  Jnike  Turnpike  crosses  the  river  in  Habersham  28 
tines  in  eight  mUea^  such  are  ifts  serpentine  wanderings  and 
meaoderings  amo  ng  the  hills.         nm-mr-mfMff:r.:_^  mtrw'"' 

Celumbus  to  y^'ugus/a  247  mites,  to  Macon  is  112  miles^ 
via  Christie  16,  Waveriey  12,  Lrberty  14,  Marshairs  Ferry 
15,  Thomaston  5,  Barnsville  14,  Forsyth  13,  Macon  25. 
The  direct  course  north-cast  from  Fort  Mitchell,  on  the  Chat^ 
tahoochee,  to  ]|[acon  is  but  92  miles ;  the  upper  route  is  U8u< 
ally  taken.  The  pine  forest  prevails,  and  the  road  is  a  bed 
of  sand,  in  Which  the  wheels  sink  12  inches^ 

Macon  is  the  county  town  of  Bibb  County,  and  is  situated  on^ 
both  sides  of  the  Ocmulgee  River,  32  miles  west-south- wea^' 
of  Milledgeville,  and  has  a  population  of  3,000  collected  since 
1823.  There  are  many  neat  and  large  houses,  70  stored,  gro- 
cers, druggists,  and  confectioners. 

The  old  Fort  Hawkins,  with  a  tract  of  reserved  land,  is  on 
the  east  side  of  (he  river,  over  which  is  n  bridge.  The  streets 
nm  north-west  and  south-east,  are  180  and  120  feet  wide; 
and  the  Wharf-street  nearest  the  river  is  880  feet,  the  next 
130  feet,  and  so  on.  Lots  'of  10  and  2&  acres  were  sold  in 
1838;  the  great  space  and  liberality  exhibited  in  laying  out 
gardens,  highwajrs,  and  squares,  &c.  is  very  pleasing  to 
strangers  and  residents.  It  is  in  the  midst  of  a  rich  and  fertile 
country ;  and  the  steam-boat  has  got  up  thus  far,  yet  produce 
and  goods  are  put  in  flats,  that  carry  from  500  to  800  bags  of 
cotton,  and  return  with  00  to  90  tons.  The  cotton  crop  sent 
from  here  is  50,000  bales ;  the  freight  to  Savannah,  62||  to  75^ 
cents  per  hundred.  WJ  <  ptJf  «5<' 

There  are  14  saw  mills  and  nine  grist  mills  in  Swift 
County  and  others.  The  town  is  healthy.  The  Macon 
Bank  is  a  fine  three  stiyry  edifice.  Branches  eilst  (»f  Staie 
and  Darien  Banks. 


■'f\ 


Pifte  Mouniaint. 


469 


J82t,  and  Is  bGO 

>f  the  Flint. 

to  Jfi7/er»»  Bendf 

'm  De  Kalb  And 

ice. 

er  at  Columbu* 

>es  over  the  falls 

itarns,  900  yards 
s  west  into  the 

1  Habersham  28 
vranderings  and 

n  is  iI2  miles^ 
farshall'g  Ferry 
13,  Macon  25. 
11,  on  the  Chat- 
ter route  is  U8u< 
le  road  is  a  bed 

id  is  situated  on 
i^est- south-west' 
colFected  since 
70  stores,  gro- 

ved  land,  isoir 
The  streets 
20  feet  wide; 
feet,  the  next 
were  sold  in 
in  laying  out 
y  pleasing  to 
ich  and  fertile 
r,  yet  produce 
o  800  bags  of 
tton  crop  sent 
!iah,62ito7& 

lis   in  Swift 

The  Macon 

xisft  (»f  Siaie 


Tfie  Court  House  on  Bridge-street  is  three  stories  high, 
93  by  47  feet,  with  a  cupola,  and  appears  well  from  Fort 
Hawkins,  on  the  east  side  of  the  river  ;  the  basement  con- 
tains various  offices,  and  in  the  second  story  are  large  rooms 
U*t  C(  'irt  and  County  purposes,  in  the  third  nre  clerks'  rooms. 
There  are  places  of  worship  for  Baptists,  Presbyterians,  and 
Methodists, 

Thomaston,in  Upson  County,  is  oneofthe  prettiest  villages 
in  Georgia,  and  is  11  miles  cast  of  MarshaH's  Ferry  on  Flmt 
Kiv.er,  75  miles  west-south-west  of  Milledgeville,  45  west  of 
Macon,  30  west-soulh-west  of  Forsythe,  and  has  50  houses, 
20  stores,  four  law  and  four  medical  offices,  a  court-honse  of 
brick  rough-cast,  jail,  maleaad  female  academy,  a  Methodist 
church. 

The  soil  in  town  is  sandy,  but  in  the  vicinity  red  clay  and 
very  fertile;  the  plantations  around  on  Potato  Creek  are 
highly  cuhivated.  Ther^  are  lively  falls  within  a  short  dis- 
tance. 10  miles  north  is  Zeiulcn  in  ?ik«  County,  and  on  the 
road  thence  to  Indian  Spring  is  Bath,  where  the  road  crost  es 
the  Ocmulgee  River,  that  is  70  miles  long  and  90  feet  wide; 
and  at  the  falls  or  high  shoals  12  miles  north-west  of  For- 
sythe,  it  widens  to  100  yards,  and  is  separated  for  some  rods 
by  an  island;  the  descent  is  10/ee(  in  100 yards. 

The  Pine  AJbuntotns  are  a  range  that  is  traveled  over  in 
going  from  Zebulon  in  Pike  County  to  Thomaston;  they  ex- 
tend south-west  through  Merriwethe  and  Harris  Counties  to 
the  Chattahoochee  River,  and  rise  to  QdOfeet  at  the  highest 
summits,  in  a  gradual  ascent  of  four  miles  each  side.  Thty 
cause  the  rapids  where  they  cross  25  miles  aitove  Columbus ; 
at  Miller^s  3end  below  West  Point,  in  Troup  County ;  to  this 
point,  produce  is  floated  down  from  the  up  country,  and 
wagoned  to  Columbus. 

Miller's  Bend  is  a  crook  in  the  Chattahoochee,  in  latitude 
32°  52'  IG'^t  where  the  line  of  Georgia  and  Alabama  di- 
verges from  the  river,  and  !'ins  north  9°  26'  3G^^  to  Nicojack 
on  the  Tennessee,  146  miles;  this  line  was  made  by  Georgia 
alone. 

Forsythe,  in  Monroe  County,  occupies  elevated  ground  in 
latitude  33°  12^  below  the  Towcloga,  50  miles  west-north- 
west of  Milledgeville,  and  has  100  houses  and  stores,  an 
academy,  Baptist  churdi,  a  court-house,  jail,  and  an  air  of 
neatness  pervades  the  place.  The  road  from  Macon  to  Mil- 
ledgeville, 30  miles,  is  sandy  and  uneven,  through  pine  woods, 

40 


i70 


-f... 


m 


mutdgtmt* 


■rtk-         '<. 


with  piiiohei  of  cotton  and  Indian  corn  in  tiie  nrnMoii ;  llifT 
bmikH  oi  tlio  Ocont)o  oro  hi^li  mid  Mloop. 

MiUedgevUUt  tito  i«&t  of  lli«  Hlnto  Lrgiffluturn,  in  on  tl)«r 
w««t  bHiiii  of  tne  Oconvo  llivnr,  in  Intitudu  33!'  4'  lU^^  at  lliit 
limit  o(  nttvi(;ation,  15H  milui  iioi(li«weit  oi  SnvNiitinli,  Hil 
weit>ioutli-w«Nt  oC  Au^iiktn,  11)8  tiotili  of  Dnridn,  71  ioiilii 
of  Attiont4, 2)0  cimtiiorltfnnNl  of  Miuon,  l'J5  Irorii  l'«>lumi)UR, 
nnd  ItfB  from  Montgomery,  AiubnmM.  It  it*  wii  nlwntrd 
Krounu,  iinii  20  itreoti  nnd  iuwr  nqunrei,  bniitHlfld  moiiIIi  i>y 
Fishing  Crt^oli  iind  «ai»l  hy  (li«  Oc  n(t«,  65(;  f««t  «vi<lo,  will» 
n  briiigo  spanning  it.  TIh)  iitrootM  cwitn  ni  rigiit  auKUiit,  nnd 
nro  bruad  but  iinpnvod.  Tharu  uroUOUiiousoi  and  Mtorcs,  aii«S 
:t,000  inbabitnuli,  a  largo  botei,  itnd  tun  ^mHller  tin«i;  tlio 
houieM  aro  of  wood,  nnd  tlir*  stornM  iiro  well  fdled  and  elegunt  ^ 
i\w!t9  arc  l)Ool«-MtoruN,  and  funr  guantleii. 

The  Stal§  llmiBt!  U  on  un  f^inirifoi't;  tln'a«-quHrt»ri>  of  n  iniln 
from  iho  rivur,  in  )iie  ct'ntro  of  State  llonHo  hf|uar»,  on  wliict* 
are  alio  thrnu  plucci  of  woraliip  on  tlio  oortii  vido  incinjj  the 
Stato  IIouio.  (iaiiiiid  by  a  powder  niagHzine,  Artcnal,  and 
academy.  Tho  jail  and  courl-lioufe  ate  on  the  i(|uare  near 
the  PenUenUaryt  where  tiie  mi^ainnarica  to  tho  CUntoUwi* 
were  confinod ;  this  iit  a  largo  brick  editico  with  a  high  wal)^ 
and  a  ivntry  at  eacli  corner  to  overlook  ijio  yard.  A  turret  or» 
the  top  of  tho  prison  ban  an  oxteniiive  view  over  tiie  town 
and  county,  that  is  uneven  and  covered  with  woud  from  tho 
edge  of  the  aetllemeoiDr  and  in  monotonous  and  dull. 

The  gothic  Stuto  Home  contains  the  looms  for  the  Legis- 
lature and  public  odicerN,  and  lire- proof  rooms  for  records; 
ho  large  hall,  (10  by  54  feet,  lian  lull  length  portraits  of  Gen. 
Oglethorpe,  Lafayette,  Washington,  and  Jefferson,  and  ai» 
old  ono  of  Ugletitorpe  is  in  the  benuto  Chamber. 

This  edifice  cost  i)ill  1.5,000.  The  markel'housc  haa  a  room 
for  the  police.    Tliero  are  three  banks. 

The  cotton  warehouses,  one  and  hulfmitei  below  the  bridge^ 
have  a  canal  and  locks.  Troni  4  OUO  to  H,000  bags  aio  sent 
from  here  annually;  tho  soil  is  red,  the  sui  face  variegated; 
the  pino  lands  aro  a  "-^fuj^u  in  cuae  of  sickncas;  the  Moun« 
tain  Spout  Hotel  is  three  4|uartera  of  a  mile  oH'and  mucii  fre- 
quented. 

The  Indian  Springs  in  Bulla  County  nro  in  the  forki  oC 
two  creeks  10  miles  west  of  the  Ocmulgee,  and  contain  aul- 
phur  and  other  ingredients,  and  arc  used  for  the  gravel,  rheu- 
matiam,  and  cutaneous  dist^aiei,  ond  to  remove  the  free  us» 
of  calomel* 


Hetnerf/  in   Virginia. 


471 


thff 
the 

,  m 

lUlll 

bu», 
Ird 
by 

II  nd 

uiuS 

Iho 

uiit ; 


' 


^T\i<*y  iirfl  moit  fnililnnnbly  frfqiirntml,  iinil  fifreim  larf^M 
liotcl  thnt  can  rur'^iva  100  pnrNoriN  ;  nlio  50  cabin«  nrnt  flttd 
r.omforttilflft,  (hnt  nro  r«n(«?<l  to  TMniiifei.  TIm  tmaly  for  ili« 
liidiHfi  land*  wai  hold  Iraro, 


llr<!iicry  mill  iiuliiral  «5iirioNlllf*ii  In  Vlr*» 
ICiiiifiy  lli«)</itrolliifi«f  Ueowuiin^  und  Esinl 
Tciiii«««cr. 

Thff  Blue  T(idf(r)  conntiiiitei  tho  dividinn;  lino  between  \\\ti 
grnriitf)  and  ltini'»tone;  Cor  you  no  tooiior  rnacb  ili*  wf»»f- 
torn  btiNff  tbait  tbf;  fixwn  atoiin  and  opidoto  dinappear,  and 
liiTinNlonn  porvndwn  tho  country.  Th«  cbango  In  tno  i^cob^gi 
«3al  formdtion  ii  ho  auddnii  nod  Mtrikinjf,  that  it  would  bn 
difficult  for  tho  mnni  CHTVi\n%n  trnvckr,  with  \m  nym  opi»n, 
not  to  obiArvc  it.  Tho  fnco  of  nature  wtara  a  di/lTdrriint  aa- 
pof  t,  (hn  (lir  ii4  rnorn  cool  and  lively  ;  <;vcn  the  wat«r  poafana- 
<!a  M(!W  properties  p('r(?rrplihlo  to  thi;  laMo.  Tbo  inhabftantu 
tio  \on^t!r  Npeak  oi  thvir  ftnudittonn  water,  but  of  their  )im«- 
atono  water;  every  «prin|:;  and  rivulet  i«  ttronffly  impref^na- 
t>'d  with  carbonnte  of  linif  ;  liie  veMela  in  whicTi  it  ia  prepor- 
i.mI  Cor  culinary  u<4e  aoon  I  forne  lined  with  a  white  calcare- 
ous crunt ;  nor  ia  ita  laiile  i  hn  only  in'^onvenience  experienced 
by  the  traveler  tif  "rntttomed  to  it;  It  often  injurea  the 
health  of  a  itrangc.,  d  rover*  the  xurfaccofthe  body  with 
cutaneous  oruptionr. 

Tho  country  between  the  H'  e  Ridge  and  thr  Cnmherland 
Mountain*,  in  Kast  Tennesinfe,  in  journevinii  fronri  north- 
vnni  to  Kouth-woHt,  over  the  ftne  rnnftea  ot  the  Allaghanies. 
The  strata  lies  in  the  name  ranf^e  as  the  moon^  tins,  wih  an 
nngle  or  <lip  of  from  25'^  to  4b^ ;  color  blue  «r  grayish,  frac- 
ture conchoidal,  but  with  aome  exceptions  ,  and  this  is  the 
general  character,  except  near  Knoxviile,  where  it  has  a 
more  variegated  appearnnce.  Fine  white  marble,  resembling 
the  Italian,  is  found  1.5  miles  from  Staunt' 

Another  great  division  of  the  lirncst/  o  country  exterdi 
5300  m\U'%  from  the  Cumberland  Mountun,  and  others  aiso- 
ciated  with  it  south-west  to  the  dividing  ridge,  which  sepa- 
rates the  waters  flowing  into  the  Tennessee  irom  those  which 
proceed  directly  to  the  Gulfof  Mexico  ia  distinguished  from 
(  he  preceding  by  its  strata  being  perfectly  horizontal,  and 


ir 


472 


Scenery  in  Tennenet, 


may  frequently  be  seen  forming  bold  precipices  along  bftn&s 
of  rivers  and  other  places. 

The  Cumberland  Mountain  is  a  singular  formation,  and 
belongs  to  the  foregoing  class  of  flat  or  table  mountains  on 
its  summit ;  its  width  varies  from  a  few  to  many  miles  ;  it 
forms  a  circuit  or  sweep  of  a  cresent  shape  from  the  south- 
western part  of  Virginia  through  Tennessee  and  the  western 
part  of  Kentucky.  Windings  lo  the  iouth-west  it  keeps  a 
course  north  of  the  Tennessee  River,  in  some  places  nearly 
parallel  with  it,  and  passes  a  few  miles  to  the  south-east  of 
Huntsville,  in  Alabama,  At  one  place  it  is  found  1&  miles 
wide.  At  a  place  150  miles  south-west  of  KnoxvillQ,  latitude 
35^  15'.  the  beight  diminishes  as  it  approaches  the  Missis- 
sippi. The  Raccoon  Mountain  crosses  the  Tennessee  River  at 
the  place  called  the  '*  Suelc,"  and  the  Look-out  Mountain, 
Avhich  terminates  abruptly  about  six  miles  to  the  left  of  the 
Suckj  form  an  acute  angle  with  the  Cumberland,  and  are 
composed  of  horizontal  strata  of  limestone. 

Let  us  here  glance  at  the  aspect  of  the  scenery  in  thi» 
neighborhood,  which  is  yet  mostly  in  a  state  of  nature.  The 
Tennessee  River,  having  concentrated  its  mass  from  the  nu- 
merous streams  it  has  received  in  its  course  of  three  or  four 
hundred  miles,  glides  through  an  extended  valley  with  a  ra- 
pid and  overwhelming  current  of  half  a  mile  in  width.  Al 
this  place  a  group  of  mountains  opposes  its  progress.  The 
Look-out^  an  independent  range  commencing  30  miles  below, 
presents  opposite  to  the  river  course  its  bold  and  rocky  termi- 
nation of  2,000  feet ;;  around  its  brow  is  a  pallisade  of  naked 
rocks  from  70  to  100  feet  high.  The  river  flows  upon  its  base, 
and  immediately  turns  to  the  right  '^  passing  on  lor  six  miles 
farther,  it  turns  again,  and  is  met  by  the  side  of  the  Raccoon 
Mountain;  here  collecting  its  strength  into  a  chamiel  of  only 
70  yards,  it  rushes  tumultuausly  through  the  rocky  defile, 
wafting  the  treipb  mg  navigator  at  the  rate  of  a  mile  in  two 
or  three  minutes.    1  his  passage  is  called  the  Suck. 

The  summit  of  the  Look-out  Mountain  overlooks  the 
whole  country,  and  to  those  who  can  be  delighted  with  the 
view  of  an  interminable  forest,  penetrated  by  the  windings 
of  a  bold  river,  interspersed  with  verdant  prairies,  and  bro- 
ken by  many  ridges  and  mountains,  furnishes  a  landscape 
which  yieldo  to  few  others  in  extent,  variety,  or  beauty.  Even 
the  aborigines  have  not  be*  >  ins^ensible  to  its  charms,  for 
in  the  name  which  they  have  given  to  the  Look-out  Moun- 


Nieojaek  Cave,  Tennes$ee. 


473 


tain,  we  have  a  laconic  but  very  striking  description  of  the 
icenery.  This  name,  in  the  Cherokee  languai^e,  without  the 
aspirated  sounds,  is  0-tullee-ton*tanna-ia-kunna-ee,  lite- 
rally mountains  looking  at^each  other.  This  spot  is  near  the 
north-west  angle  of  Georgia  and  the  Tennessee  line. 

A  sandstone  rock  of  a  peculiar  character,  that  abounds 
here,  is  used  for  millstones  at  the  missionary  settlement  of 
Brainerd,  eight  miles  east  of  the  Look-out  Mountain. 

A  great  number  of  caves  are  found  in  this  region,  both  in 
the  inclined  and  horizontal  limestone;  some  of  them  are  se- 
veral miles  in  extent,  and  abound  in  alkaline  salts.  The 
great  Nieojaek  Cave,  in  the  Cherokee  country,  is  20  miles 
south-west  of  the  Look-out  Mountain,  and  half  a  mile  from 
the  south  bank  of  the  Tennessee  River. 

The  Raccoon  Mountain,  in  which  it  is  situated,  here  fronts 
to  the  north-east.  Immense  layer»  of  horizontal  limestone 
form  a  precipice  of  considerable  leis^ht ;  in  this  precipice 
the  cave  commences,  not  however  with  an  opening  of  a  few 
feet,  as  is  common,  but  with  a  mouth  50  feet  high,  and 
160  wide;  its  roof  formed  by  a  solid  and  regular  layer  of 
limestone,  having  no  support  but  the  sides  of  the  cave,  and 
is  as  level  as  the  floor  of  a  house.  The  entrance  is  partly  ob- 
structed by  piles  of  fallen  rocks,  which  appear  to  have  been 
dislodged  by  some  great  convulsion.  From  its  entrance  the 
cave  consists  chiefly  of  one  grand  excavation  through  the 
rocks,  preserving,  for  a  great  distance,  the  same  dimensions 
as  at  its  mouth. 

What  is  more  remarkable  than  all,  it  forms,  for  the  whole 
distance  it  has  yet  been  explored,  a  walled  and  vaulted  pas- 
sasre  for  a  stream  of  cool  and  limpid  water,  which,  where 
it  leaves  the  cave,  is  six  feet  deep,  and  60  feet  wide.  A  few 
years  since,  a  Col.  James  Ore,  of  Tennessee,  commencing 
early  in  the  morning,  followed  up  the  course  of  this  creek  in 
a  canoe  through  this  extensive  cave,  or  natural  tunnel,  far 
three  miles.  He  then  came  to  a  fall  of  water,  and  was 
obliged  to  return  without  making  any  farther  discovery, 
havmg  been  busily  enj^aged  in  his  subterranean  voyage  for 
12  hours.  He  smt^d  that  the  course  of  the  cave,  after  pro- 
ceeding some  way  to  the  south-west,  became  south  and 
«outh-ea8t>hy>soutb  the  remaining  distance.  Here  is  a  dirong 
temptation  to  penetrate  to  its  utmost  limit  the  hidden  splen- 
dors of  this  mysterious  excavation.  There  are  several  apart- 
menls  leading  out  of  the  main  cavern,  that  furnish  the  earth 

40* 


474 


Scenery  of  Norih  Carolina^ 


that,  by  lixiviaiinn  and  cry8talli2ation,  produce  the  nitra  t  e 
of  potash.  In  the  space  of  20  feet  siiuare  100  human  sku  tU 
were  found,  lying  in  great  confusion.  The  natives  to  this 
day  use  similar  caves  as  burial-places  tor  their  dead. 


i  . 


Tlie  Pilot  and  Sa^^rata  mountain  and 
Torjr  Honse  or  Cave,  Kocicingliani 
County,  North  Carolina,  and  tbe  Pin« 

t   nacies  of  tlie  ]>an  in  Virg^inia. 

In  approaching  from  the  east,  the  first  glimp«e  of  the 
Pilot  Mountain  resembles  a  magnificent  temple  with  a  su- 
perb cupola,  not  unlike  the  dome  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome. 
The  symmetry  of  ita  structure  is  still  preserved  on  a  nearer 
vieu',  and  nothin;;  can  exceed  the  regularity  and  beauty  of 
its  appearance.  The  country  around,  for  a  great  extent,  es- 
pecially to  the  east  and  south,  though  undulating,  is  still  so 
low,  compared  with  this  eminence,  that  the  latter  seems  al- 
most to  rise  from  an  immense  plain. 

Grassy  Creek,  a  small  stream,  runs  at  the  base,  from 
which  the  ascent  is  so  gradual  that  one  may  proceed  on 
horseback,  the  acclivity  being  only  about  20°,  until  you  ar- 
rive at  a  spring  and  a  port  of  rest  and  refreshment ;  and 
from  its  temperature,  58°,  this  may  be  assumed  as  the  ave- 
rage temperature  of  this  position. 

From  this  spot  the  ascent  becomes  more  abrupt  and  fa- 
ticuing  on  the  north  side  to  the  foot  of  the  pinnacle,  and  the 
only  practicable  pass  to  the  summit.  The  form  of  the  pin- 
nacle is  almost  perfectly  cylindrical.  The  perpendicular 
wall  is  201)  feet  in  height,  and  many  of  the  visitants,  unac- 
customed as  they  are  to  Alpine  scenery,  are  so  affected  by 
the  bewildering  aspect  of  the  world  below  them,  and  so  ap- 
palled at  the  idea  of  hanging  on  the  sides  of  the  cliff  that 
frowns  over  their  heads,  that  no  persuasion  can  induce  them 
to  ascend  the  pinnacle.  The  path  is  indeed  narrow  and 
steep,  but  it  appears,  when  viewed  from  below,  more  for- 
midable than  it  really  is.  In  some  places  the  ascent  is 
nearly  perpendicular,  but  convenient  cavities  and  projec- 
tions are  found,  by  which  the  feet  and  hands  may  be  made 
suie.  The  course  winds  along  westwaisdiy  on  Ihesideof  the 
clifl)  and  at  length  passes  abruptly  over  its  brow,  and   the 


/ 


Scenery  of  North  Carolina, 


475 


nitra  t  e 
I  skuMs 
to  this 


md  fa-     ' 
nd  the 


IS 


adventurer  finds  htmseif  on  the  convex  summit.  More  than 
three-fourths  of  the  horizon  is  distinctly  in  view.  On  the 
south  and  south-west  spreads  an  interminable  plain,  meeting 
the  sky  like  the  ocean.  On  the  west  and  north  the  Blue 
Ridge  presents  an  outline  of  unrivalled  grandeur,  and  the 
Sawrata  on  the  east,  and  on  the  south-west  are  caught  a 
few  glimpses  of  the  Yadkin  River. 

The  height  of  the  mountain,  above  the  creek,  is  1,551 
feet,  and  of  the  pinnacle  250  feet  on  the  south  side.  Al- 
though this  height  may  not  be  thought  remarkable  by  those 
familiar  with  mountainous  regions,  yet  it  must  be  recollect- 
ed the  Pilot  stands  alone  ns  un  advanced  guard,  and  that 
the  neighboring  country,  for  40  miles  around,  is  compara- 
tively a  plain,  and  those  that  ascend  this  mountain  have  just 
emerged  from  a  region  over  which  the  prospects  are  ob- 
structed, and  the  horizon  concealed  by  boundless  forests, 
and  that  the  Pilot  is  a  most  favorable  post  of  observation 
for  viewing  the  Blue  Ridge  in  its  sublimest  attitude. 

The  geology  of  the  mounte.in  can  be  favorably  observed 
by  following  a  foot-path  that  environs  it  close  to  its  base. 
The  j-innacie  is  made  up  of  mica,  slate,  and  quarts;  its 
rocky  wall  is  full  of  rents  from  top  to  bottom,  and  it  is  re- 
gularly stratified,  the  strata  dipping  easterly  at  an  angle  of 
10^,  and  is  divided  into  tabular  masses  by  the  seams.  The 
most  abundant  rocA  is  a  peculiar  kind  of  grit-rock,  compos- 
ed of  very  fine  granular  quartz,  with  flesh-red  mica  inti- 
mately disseminated  ;  the  texture  is  exquisitely  fine,  and 
the  cohesion  so  loose  that  it  may  be  crumbled  between  the 
fingers  into  the  finest  white  sand.  Mill-stones  and  grind- 
stones are  quarried  from  this  and  other  mountains  on  the 
north-west  side  df  the  Pilot. 

The  Sawrata  Mountain,  though  higher  than  the  ^ilof, 
is  less  difficult  and  perilous  in  tho  ascent ;  the  view  from  the 
summit  is  similar.  The  scenery  that  adorns  the  sides  of 
Moore's  Mountain  is  also  worth  seeing. 

On  the  ascent  is  a  cascade,  which,  though  small,  is  emi- 
nently pleasing  to  the  eye,  presenting  suddenly  to  the  visit- 
er, in  a  chasm  between  perpendicular  rocks  65  feet  in 
height,  a  narrow  sheet  of  silvery  foam,  falling  first  down  a 
precipice  30  feet,  and  then  rolling  down  an  inclined  plane 
With  peculiar  grace  and  beauty.  This  water-fall  is  so  hid- 
den among  inaccessible  rocks,  as  to  be  known  to  very  few 
persons. 


476 


Interior  Mountain  Scenery. 


The  Tory  House  is  a  celebrated  grotto,  the  access  to  which 
on  all  sides  is  precipitous  and  difficult.  Hence  it  was  select- 
ed during^  the  revolutionary  war  by  a  number  of  tories  and 
marauders,  who  occaeionally  sallied  forth  upon  the  low- 
lands, and  plundered  the  inhabitants.  This  secluded  spot  has 
an  arched  entrance,  after  passing  which  we  find  ourselves 
in  a  vaulted  cavern  of  very  regular  structure,  15  feet  high, 
60  feet  long,  and  20  feet  wide  in  the  centre,  but  converging 
towards  the  farther  end.  The  arch  is  throughout  remarka- 
bly well  turned.  The  rocks  consist  of  angular  pieces  of 
quartz,  so  wedsed  as  to  fit  each  other  with  great  precision. 
The  height  of  Moore's  Mountain  is  1,833  feet.  Petrifactions 
of  trees  are  found  two  miles  east  of  Gcrmantown,  and  in 
the  road. 

The  Pinnacles  of  Ike  Dan,  in  Virginia,  are  remarkable  emi- 
nences, where  the  head  waters  of  the  Roanoke  find  their 
way  through  the  Blue  Ridge.  This  is  truly  the  regi<in  of  the 
clouds,  where  nature  reigns  in  awful  solitude.  The  Ridge  is 
so  well  defined  in  some  places,  that  we  are  at  one  time  with- 
in a  stone's  throw  of  the  waters  that  empty  into  the  Missis- 
sippi on  the  one  side,  and  of  those  that  empty  into  the  At- 
lantic on  the  other.  Of  the  former  are  the  head-waters  of 
New  River,  and  of  the  latter  are  the  remotest  fountains  of 
the  Yadkm  and  the  Roanoke.  The  Pinnacles  of  the  Dan 
are  sharp  conical  peaks,  rising  1,200  or  1,500  feet  above  the 
bed  of  Dan  River,  and  converging  so  nearly  to  a  point,  that 
one  standing  on  the  vertex  may  almost  reach  round  the 
mountain  with  his  cane.  There  are  several  of  these  sharp 
peaks  that  together  constitute  the  Pinnacles.  The  mica  slate 
rocks  at  their  base  project  their  perpendicular  strata  (called 
by  the  inhabitants  saw-teeth)  into  the  stream,  first  on  one 
side  then  on  the  other,  forcing  it  in  a  zig-zag  course  down 
the  declivity,  and  maintaining  an  obstinate  and  angry  con- 
flict with  its  waters. 

North  of  the  point  where  the  James  River  leaves  the 
mountains,  the  high  ridge  of  the  AUeghanies  is  called  the 
Blue  Ridge.  In  North  Carolina  this  name  is  applied  to  the 
ridge  that  separates  the  eastern  and  western  waters.  This  is 
commonly  the  first  high  mountain,  but  not  always  so. 

The  Table  Mountain  that  forms  so  fine  and  striking  a  fea- 
ture in  the  scenery  about  Morganton,  is  not  a  part  of  the 
Blue  Ridge,  but  a  spur  or  outlier.  From  Morganton  it  seem:) 
to  be  a  round  tower  rising  perpendicularly  from  the  summit 


Heighit  of  Mounlaim, 


All 


the 

the 

the 

IS  is 


of  Ihe  firil  range  of  the  Alleghanies.  It  is,  in  Tact,  a  narrovi' 
ridge,  afTording  a  very  fine  prospect  of  the  fertile  valley  of 
the  Catawba  and  its  tributaries  0!(i  the  south-east  and  east, 
and  of  nature  in  her  wildest  dresA  where  the  Linville  pours 
over  the  rock  along  a  deep  ravins  wholly  untenanted  and 
uncultivated,  and  of  a  vast  extent  of  mountain  peaks  and 
ranges  on  the  north-east.  Its  top  is  2,453  feet  above  Mor- 
ganton,  and  15  miles  distant  in  a  direct  line. 

The  Grandfather,  17  miles  from  the  Table,  and  28  from 
Morganton,  has  hitherto  been  generally  supposed  the  high- 
est mountain  in  North  Carolina.  There  is  a  mountain  not 
far  off,  called  the  Grandmother^  from  being  crowned  with  the 
balsam  fir ;  it  is  thought  to  be  2,600  feet. 

The  Roan  Mountain  is  15  miles  fiom  the  Grandfather, 
and  36  north-west  from  Morganton,  lying  directly  over  or 
beyond  the  HawkbUl.  It  touches  the  Tennessee  line,  but  the 
highest  peaks  are  in  North  Carolina.  Xi^is  ■>  ^^^  easiest  of 
access,  the  most  beautiful,  and  will  best  repay  the  labor  of 
ascending.  Near  its  south-west  extremity  is  a  body  of  rocks 
looking  like  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle.  The  top  is  a  vast 
meadow  or  plain,  without  a  tree  to  obstruct  the  prospect ; 
where  a  person  may  gallop  his  horse  for  a  mite  or  two,  with 
Carolina  at  his  feet  on  one  side,  and  Tennessee  on  the  other, 
and  a  green  ocean  of  mountains  raised  into  tremendous 
billows  immediately  about  him.  It  is  the  Elysium  of  south- 
em  botanists,  as  a  number  of  plants  are  found  growing  in 
this  cold  and  humid  atmosphere,  that  are  not  seen  again  till 
we  have  gone  hundreds  of  miles  farther  north.  It  is  the  pas- 
ture-grouiid  for  the  young  horses  for  the  whole  country  about 
it  during  summer.  The  strawberry  is  found  here  in  abun- 
dance, and  of  the  finest  quality  as  to  flavor,  long  after  it  has 
gone  from  the  plains  beneath. 

The  Black  Mountain  is  a  long  ridge  30  miles  from  Mor- 
ganton.  It  has  some  peaks  of  greater  elevation  than  any 
east  of  the  Rocky  Mouniainsj  and  believed  to  be  the  highest 
mountain  in  the  United  States, 

Mount  Washington,  in  New  Hampshire,  6,234;  highest 
peak  of  the  Black,  6,476;  Roan,  6.038  ;  Peaks  of  Otter,  3,955  ; 
Black,  at  T.  Young's,  5,946  ;  Yeates'  Knob,  5,895  ;  Grand- 
father, 5,556;  Table  iVlountain,  Burke,  North  Carolina, 
3,421 ;  Catskill,  3,804. 

The  Bald  Mountain  and  the  White  Top,  in  Virginia,  are 
nearly  if  not  quite  as  high  as  the  Roan.    In  the  south-east 


478 


Black  and  Saluda  MounUtiut. 


part  of  Heyward  County,  near  the  South  Carolina  line,  ii  a 
iremendous  pile ;  and  between  Heyward,  and  Macon,  and 
Tennessee,  the  Unika  soars  up  high. 

The  Pilot  Mountain,  that  has  heretofore  enjoyed  great  ce- 
lebrity, is  much  lower  than  several  others.  The  ascent  of 
the  Black  Mountain  is  very  difficult  on  account  of  the  thick 
)aurels  that  are  so  closely  set,  and  their  strong  branches  so 
interwoven,  that  a  path  cannot  be  forced  by  pushing  them 
aside;  and  the  hunters  have  no  method  of  advancing,  when 
they  fall  in  with  the  worst  of  them,  but  that  of  crawling 
along  their  tops.  The  bear,  in  passing  up  between  the 
mountains,  fyids  it  easiest  to  keep  the  ridges ;  and  trampling 
down  the  young  laurels  as  they  spring  up,  breaking  the  limbs 
from  th9  old  ones,  and  pushing  them  aside,  he  forms  at  last 
a  sort  of  burrow  above  ground  through  this  bed  of  vegeta- 
tion, along  which  ho  passes  without  difficulty  :  this  is  a  bear- 
trail.  The  top  is  covered  with  the  balsam  fir,  from  the  dark 
and  sombre  8ha<le  of  whose  foliage  it  doubtless  received  the 
name  of  the  Black  Mowilain.  The  growth  of  the  tree  ia 
such  on  these  high  mountains,  that  it  is  easy  to  climb  to  the 
top,  and  taking  hold  of  the  highest  branch,  look  abroad  upon 
the  prospect.  It  la  occasionally  enveloped  in  mist,  when  the 
view  is  circumscribed  to  one  or  two  hundred  yards ;  and  it  is 
then  cold  and  penetrating,  when  perhaps  at  a  small  dis< 
tance  below  the  ridges  the  thermometer  may  be  at  80°. 

The  finest  ice-water  is  a  vapid  drink  compared  with  the 
pure  element  that  gushes  from  the  sides  of  these  western 
mountains,  varying  from  48®  to  52'^  in  temperature. 

The  ascent  of  the  Saluda  J^ountain  is  arduous,  rough,  and 
fatiguing;  but  the  way  is  agreeably  beguiled  by  the  succes- 
sion  of  extensive  views  presented  to  the  eye  of  the  admiring 
traveler,  that  here  luxuriates  over  the  very  commanding  and 
expansive  prospect  of  the  lower  country.  The  parched  and 
thirsty  are  delighted  here  to  encounter  the  cool  fountain 
gushing  from  the  pure  granite  rock,  as  the  waters  burst  forth 
forming  the  head  waters  of  the  Saluda  River,  that,  with  the 
waters  of  the  Broad,  Pacolet,  Tyger,  and  Eimoree  Rivers, 
drain  the  eastern  slopes  of  the  mountains  and  hills  in  this 
part  of  the  State,  pass  by  Columbia  the  State  Capital  in 
Richland  County,  and  then,  taking  the  name  of  Congaree, 
soon  after  unites  with  the  Catawba  coming  from  North  Ca- 
rolina, called  also  in  South  Carolina  the  Watcree,  and  thence, 
under  the  name  of  the  Santee,  flows  on  in  a  south-oast  course, 


Scenery  of  Frtnch  Broad  River. 


'479 


when 


and  falls  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  in  latitude  33°  10'.  From 
the  diversity  of  name»  this  river  nssumes  in  various  pnrt:ii  of 
its  course,  people  not  familiar  with  this  State  are  at  first  a 
little  puzzled  to  connect  the  numerous  ramifications.  f  „ 

Soon  after  passing  the  dividing  lidge,  we  arrive  at  the  Flat 
or  Table  Kock  so  called,  where  the  wealthy  inhat>i(ants  ofthe 
city  of  Charleston  have  their  villas,  nestling  among  the  se« 
eluded  recesses  of  the  mountains. 

The  descent  of  the  French  Broad  River,  from  its  head 
sources  in  Buncombe  County,  North  Carolina,  (from  the  De- 
vil's Court  House  Mountain j  and  the  Hog's  Back  Mountains, 
to  where  it  passes  through  the  Unika,  Smoky,  or  Bald  Moun* 
tain,)  is  near  or  quite  1,500  feet  in  40  miles,  and  of  course 
must  ofier  n  continued  scene  of  wild  romantic  beauty.    Here 
we  are  at  the  very  fountain-head  of  one  ofthe  auxiliories  of 
the  Ohio  and  Mississippi,  near  the  confines  of  Georgia, 
South  Carolina,  North  Carolina,  and  Tennessee.    The  road 
follows  a  deep  gorge,  that  embosoms  the  roaring  waters  of 
the  French  Broad  branch  ofthe  Tennessee  River;  we  are 
upon  a  side  hill,  with  only  barely  enough  of  excavation  from 
its  steep  slope  to  give  a  precarious  footing  for  horses  and 
carriages,  the'lofty  precipice  on  one  side,  the  deep,  dark, 
yiiwning  valley  on  the  other.  We  hear  the  furious,  brawling 
stream,  at  first  concealed  from  view  by  thick,  impervious 
trees   and    shrubbery,    projecting    rocks   o'erarching    and 
shrouding  the  workings  of  the  furious  element,   and  then 
again  suddenly  disclosing  it  for  a  moment  in  its  rapid  career, 
and  anon  vanishing  in  its  onward  course,  gathering  force 
and  grandeur  at  everjr  step  of  its  descent,  amid  opposing 
riDcks,  acute  and  graceful  turnings,  green  tufted  islands,  and 
bleak,  worn  masses  of  sharp  rocks,  giving  every  variety  to 
the  picture,  aided  by  the  beautiful  laurel  and  rhododendron/ 
and  the  mosses  and  shrubbery  attached  to  the  rocks  like  a 
thick  coat  of  frosting  and  sugar-plumb  ornament  to  an  im- 
mense cake. 

Cascades,  tricked  out  in  all  the  witchery  of  nature,  leap 
from  rock  to  rock,  and  are  received  in  deep-shaded  reser« 
voirs,  tempting  the  bather  and  the  thirsty  soul  to  enjoy  the 
treat.  The  day  can  be  spent  in  revelling  in  these  lovely 
scenes ;  we  forget  all  sense  of  fatigue  in  the  deep  excitement 
we  enjov  and  the  pure  air  we  breathe. 

The  Painted  Rock  is  a  lofty  wall  of  200  or  300  feet,  that 
rises  by  the  road  in  near  proximity,  and  is  staiaed  of  a  yel- 


480 


Mountain*  in  Georgia. 


low  color  by  the  exudation  of  water  through  the  crevices 
'eading  ftom  beds  of  clay,  as  is  seen  at  the  painted  or  pic- 
'Ured  rocks  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior,  and  doubtless 
Hi  many  other  places.  Passing  this  we  are  et  the  termination 
^f  the  gorge,  and  emerge  upon  the  State  of  Tennessee. 

The  CurroAee  Mountain,  near  Clarkesville,  in  Habersham 
tnd  Franklin  Counties,  in  the  north-east  part  of  Georgia, 
'.ppears,  as  it  1)4  seen  from  the  south,  to  be  insulated,  no 
>ther  eminences  being  seen ;  but  it  is,  in  fact,  a  spur  that 
'manates  from  the  Blue  Ridge  or  Alleghany  Mountains,  as 
nay  be  seen  from  its  conical  summit  of  650  feet.   There  is 
^  boundless  prospect  over  the  country  to  the  south-east 
And  south-west ;  to  the  north-west,  at  30  miles,  the  Blue 
Ridge  is  seen  majestically  soaring,  being  at  the  head-watorit 
tbatemptyintotheSavannah,  Chattahoochee,  and  Coosa  Ri- 
vers, and  forming  the  ridge  or  roof  that  separates  the  waters 
that  run  into  the  Tennessee  and  Mississippi  Rivers,  from 
those  emptying  south-east  to  the  coast  of  Georgia,  or  south 
into  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  is  four  miles  south-west  of  Toc- 
koa  Falls;  16  north-west  of  Carnesville;  five  south-east  of 
Clarkesville.  There  is  a  much-frequented  public-house  at  the 
base  of  the  mountain,  where,  during  the  heats  of  summer 
in  the  low  country,  the  gentry  resort  for  a  change  of  air,  and 
to  enjoy  the  mountain  scenery,  and  the  Falls  of  Tockoa  anu 
Tallulah.  (See  page  483)  In  Gilmer,  near  the  line  of  Lump- 
kin County,  is  a  remarkable  fall  of  400  feet,  18  miles  west  of 
Dahlochnega,  latitude  34°  30^ 

From  Clarkesville  the  roads  in  all  directions  are  very 
pleasant,  but  especially  in  going  to  the  south-west  and  in 
coming  from  Gainesville  to  Clarkesville,  when  the  view  of 
the  Yumah  Mountain,  in  a  favorable  time,  as  light  and  shade 
may  offer,  is  charming  in  the  highest  degree. 

Clarkesville  i&  the  county  town  of  Habersham  f\n  Georgia; 
and  is,  from  its  location  in  a  temperate  region  in  the  vici- 
nity of  the  mountains,  a  healthy  and  delightful  residence, 
favorable  for  a  place  of  departure  to  reach  the  Falls  of  Toe- 
coaand  Tellulah.  The  brick  Court-house,  as  usual  in  coun- 
try towns  in  the  south,  fornas  the  nucleus  of  the  public 
square ;  and  the  neat,  airy,  well-built  residences  of  the 
wealthy  and  comfortable  citizens  are  built  at  suitable  inter- 
vals afound  the  green  square. 

The  Xaueoochy  Vallev,  with  its  small  Indian  mound,  will 
be  noticed  as  worthy  of  attention,  from  the  relic*  that  have 


r 


,  i 


■.-Ai^-^i.if^'-.'ri-'.    1.: 


Scenery  in  Georgia. 


481 


boen  (lieinterre'l  at  this  spot,  and  as  being  an  old  Indian  field. 

The  Cowela  FallSf  on  the  Chuttahuochee  River,  arc  at  the 
head  of  iteam-boai  navigation,  near  the  town  of  Columbui, 
in  Georgia,  where  the  river  is  400  or  500  yards  wide,  and  at 
the  fall  or  rapid  \h  out  12  or  15  feet  in  all,  or  rather  but  a 
8eries  of  shoals;  yet,  occurring  as  they  do  in  a  flat  country, 
they  form  a  feature  that  gives  life  and  animation  to  the  vi- 
cinity ;  and  something  of  beauty,  from  the  irregularity  of  the 
curves  of  the  foaming  billows  ihat  are  presented  in  various 
aspects  from  the  adjacent  shores,  and  from  the  bridges  con- 
necling  Columbus  with  the  shore  in  Alabama. 

An  agreeable  promenade,  in  a  venerable  grove,  has  been 
judiciously  preserved  by  the  citizens,  in  laying  out  the  town 
near  the  Fulls;  and  the  native  forest  trees  have  ahobeen  in 
1«me  measure  retained,  and  are  intermingled  with  the  resi- 
dences and  grounds  for  their  salutary  shade  and  ornament. 

The  river,  for  many  miles  above  Columbus,  forms  a  series 
of  rapids,  and  its  shores  have  much  of  picturesque  beauty 
for  those  that  have  time  and  inclination  to  visit  them,  amid 
the  wild  ravines  and  bold  bluffs  that  repel  all  attempts  to 
explore  them,  except  on  foot — winding  along  near  the  bank 
of  the  river,  and  keeping  a  sharp  look-out  for  rattlesnakes, 
and  Indians,  flowers,  &c. 


Great  Stone  or  Rock  Iflouiitaiii  in  Be 

Kalb  County,  Georgia. 

<i .. '  ■    I  •  •  ■...•■, 

The  occurrence  of  this  solitary  stupendous  mountain,  in 
the  midst  of  a  country  remarkable  for  its  regularity  of  sur- 
face, and  plain  and  uniform  features,  and  its  being  faraway 
from  any  continuous  range,  are  the  characteristics  that  cause 
this  wonderful  production  of  nature  to  be  yiewed  by  the 
admiring  inhabitants  of  the  surrounding  plains,  as  a  wonder 
surpassing  in  grandeur  the  pyramids  of  £gypt. 

It  is  about  90  miles  distant  from  the  general  terminating 
chain  of  the  Alleghanies  that  pass  on  the  north,  through  the 
counties  of  Habersham,  Lumpkin,  Gilmer,  and  Cherokee ; 
i»  on  the  south  side  of  the  Chattahoochee  River,  which 
sweeps  nearly  around  it  in  a  graceful  bend,  and  thus  en- 
closes and  insulates  it  from  the  celebrated  gold  region  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  about  five  miles  south  of 
the  34^  of  north  latitude;  and  if  the  elevation  ascribed  to  it, 

41 


II 


"it 


482 


Route  and  Scene*  in  Georgia. 


2,700  to  3,000  feet,  is  correct,  it  is  by  far  the  most  elevated 
point  in  the  extreme  south-western  part  of  nny  of  the 
southern  atlantic  States,  and  standu  forth  proudly,  as  it  were, 
a  huge  Cerberus,  or  sentinel,  or  watch-lower,  to  guard  the  goUl 
mines. 

The  nearegt  way  to  approach  it  from  Charleston  would 
be  by  way  of  the  raii-road  to  Augusta,  and  thence  to  Madi- 
son, and  thence  to  Decatur,  and  from  the  Rock  Mountain 
after  passing  through  the  auriferous  region  and  along  the 
skirts  of  the  Cherokee  Indian  country  ;  the  Tockoa  and 
Tallulah  Falls,  in  Habersham  County,  might  be  comprised 
in  a  short  journey  to  the  north  part  ot  Georgia;  and  if  de- 
sirous of  a  further  extension  of  the  route,  the  Table  Moun> 
tain  in  South  Carolina,  and  the  Pilot  and  Sawrata  Moun- 
tains in  North  Carolina,  and  the  Pmnaclee  of  the  Dan  and 
peaks  of  Otter  in  Virginia,  might  all  be  visited  on  ihe  way 
to  the  different  Virginia  Springs.  \  \ 

The  Stone  Mountain  is  so  much  of  a  curiosity  in  that  part 
of  the  world,  that  no  traveler  ever  omits  visiting  it.     There 
is  a  comfortable  house  at  the  base  of  the  mountain  for  the 
accommodation  of  travelers,  kept  by  a  Mr.  Wood,  who  also 
officiates  as  guide  in  visiting  that  neighborhood.    It  is  said 
to  be  an  immense  outline  of  solid  and  barren  rock,  towering 
far  above  the  high  hills  around  it.    The  ascent  is  a  mile  and 
a  quarter;  the  south  is  steep,  and  on  the  north  it  is  nearly 
perpendicular,  or  overhanging  with,  an  aspect  fearful  and 
frowning  to  behold.    The  view  from  the  top  is  extensive  and 
imposing,  and  gives  the  beholder  a  bird's  eye  view  of  the 
lower  counties  towards  the  coast,  presenting  in  its  general 
aspect  an  ocean  of  verdure,  with  here  and  there  a  cotton 
plantation,  and  on  the  north  the  hilly  region  round  the  head 
waters  of  the  Chattahoochee  River,  with  the  clear  and  regu- 
lar defined  blue  outline  of  the  lofty  Alleghanies  on  the  ex- 
tremcst  verge  of  the  horizon.    Far  beneath  your  feet,  the 
clouds  float  Iig4itly  and  shroud  the  rough   flatures  of  the 
rocks,  and  occasionally  collect  in  masses  and  emit  flashes 
of  electricity,  followed  by  the  reverberating  peal  of  thunder, 
dying  away  in  distant  echoes,  and  giving  new  features  of 
sublimity  to  the  scene,  much  to  the  gratihcation  of  the  con- 
templative traveler. 

The  rock  consists  of  a  solid  free-stone,  porous  but  very 
hard,  the  top  is  nearly  flat  and  about  300  feet  in  diameter. 
The  circumference  of  the  base  of  this  vast  pyramidical  for- 


' 


Tochoa  and  TaUulah  Falls. 


483 


_  i,,*J»L*>  ' 


rnatioh  is  about  seven  miles ;  a.>d  t]\e  heiglit  near  3,000  feet ; 
the  whole  covers  250  acres.  A  wall  of  rocks,  six  to  eight 
feet  high,  id  a  wonder,  environing  the  mountain  about  one- 
fifth  of  the  way  down  ;  no  one  knows  any  thing  of  or  about 
the  makers  of  this  stupendous  work  of  man. 

The  Rock  Bridge  is  six  miles  easterly  from  the  Rock 
Mountain,  where  the  road  to  and  from  Monroe,  in  Walton 
County,  passes  over  this  natural  bridge  of  nolid  rock,  that 
extendi  nearly  across  the  Yellow  River,  one  of  the  branches 
of  the  Ocmulgee.     ^    , 


Tockoa  and  Tallulali  Falls  in  Oeorg^la, 
•   Habersham  County. 

Those  only  who  have  visited  and  contemplated  this  in- 
teresting section  of  our  country,  can  justly  appreciate  the 
beauty  and  magnificence,  and  the  wildness  and  sublimity  of 
the  natural  scenery  around  the  southern  termination  of  the 
Blue  Ridge.  There  are  many  rich  scenes,  whose  unknown 
and  heretofore  unfrequented  recesses  have  never  yet  been 
described,  along  the  western  and  mountainous  border  of  the 
Carolinas  and  Georgia. 

Tockoa  Fall  is  in  a  small  creek  of  the  same  name,  just  be- 
fore it  runs  into  the  Tu^aloo,  150  miles  north-west  from 
Augusta.  The  perpendicular  fall  is  186  feet.  It  is  surround- 
ed  by  no  wild  scenery.  The  rivulet,  disturbed  by  no  rapids, 
moves  with  a  gentle  current,  and  drops  without  warning  into 
a  beautiful  basin  below,  expanding  into  tine  rain  before  it 
reaches  the  bottom;  the  breeze  which  always  plays  there 
spreads  a  thick  spray  around,  and  ornaments  the  falling 
water,  the  rock  and  the  shrubbery  with  rainbows.  A  car- 
riage-road is  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  falls,  and  a  party 
can  ride  to  the  base  and  toths  summit  of  the  precipice.  The 
Tockoa  produces  a  sensation  rather  of  the  beautiful  than 
the  sublime ;  it  pleases  but  does  not  terrify;  it  satisfies,  but 
does  nut  overwhelm  the  expectation.  It  is  a  fine  preparation 
for  the  scenery  which  awaits  the  traveler  16  miles  to  the 
northward. 

The  rapids  of  TaUulah  are  in  Georgia,  in  Habersham 
County,  10  miles  above  the  union  of  the  Taltulah  and 
Chataoga  Rivers,  which  form  tho  Tugaloo,  five  miles  from 
South  Carolina,  and  about  20  miles  from  the  line  of  North 


I' 


i  1 


484 


Falls  in  Georgia. 


Carolina.  Ttie  river,  that  is  40  yards  wide  above  the  rapids, 
is  forced,  for  a  mile  and  a  fourth,  through  a  range  of  moun- 
tains into  a  channel  scarcely  20  feot  broad.  TUe  mountain 
receives  the  water  into  a  broad  basin,  surrounded  by  solid 
rocti  100  feet  in  height.  Here  the  stream  pauses  in  antici- 
pation of  the  gulf  below;  then  rushes  down  a  cataract  40 
feet,  then  hurrying  through  a  narrow  winding  passage, 
dashing  from  side  to  side  against  the  precipice,  and  repeat- 
edly turning  at  right  angles,  is  precipitated  100  feet,  and  in 
a  moment  afler,  50  feet  more,  and  then,  making  many  short 
turns,  it  rushes  down  three  or  four  fails  of  20  and  10  feet. 
The  sum  of  the  fall  in  the  distance  of  a  mile  is  estimated  at 
350  feet. 

T.'^e  rapids,  however  splendid  apart  from  the  sublimity 
with  which  they  are  surrounded,  are  only  an  appendage  to 
the  stupendous  banks  of  solid  rock  descending  almost  per- 
pendicularly to  the  water  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and 
varying  in  the  distance  of  a  mile,  from  700  to  1,000  feet  in 
height,  so  that  the  stream  literally  passes  in  that  distance 
through  the  mountain,  or  rather  through  the  high  lands  that 
connect  two  mountains.  The  visiter  approaches  from  the 
west,  finds  an  easy  descent  for  the  last  mile,  and  drives  his 
carriage  to  the  very  edge  of  the  gulf.  No  unusual  appear- 
ances of  pointed  rocks  or  broken  lands  admonish  him  that 
the  rapids  are  near,  till  suddenly  he  sees  the  opening  abyss. 
He  advances  cautiously  from  tree  to  tree,  till  lie  looks  down 
upon  the  water.  Instantly  his  mind  surrenders  itself  to  the 
overwhelming  sensation  of  awe  and  amazement.  Some 
visiters,  hurrying  down  to  the  brink  without  giviug  the  mind 
time  to  collect  itself,  experience  dizziness  and  faintness,  and 
are  compelled  to  crawl  back.  Here  are  no  artificial  em- 
bellishments. The  scenery  wears  the  artless  robe  of  nature's 
wildness.  The  romantic  variety,  magnificence,  and  sublimi- 
ty of  Jehovah^s  works  are  untouched  by  human  hands.  The 
itapids  are  in  the  bosom  of  a  forest. 

In  front  of  the  spectator,  the  perpendicular  face  of  the 
rock  on  the  opposite  shore  presents  a  variety  uf  figures  and 
colors,  brown,  white,  azure,  and  purple,  overhanging,  re- 
ceding, angular,  and  square  surfaces ;  figures  in  bas-^relief, 
ornamented  with  shrubbery ;  small  rivulets  falling  in  grace- 
ful  cascades  down  the  precipice ;  the  opening  abyss  lined 
with  massive  rock  ;  the  foaming,  roaring  water  at  the  bot- 
tom, encircled  by  rainbows,  are  all  seen  at  one  view.    The 


f 


^ 


f,    if  '---y- 


.v;.i  Georgia  Falls, 


485 


C^ 


scenery  does  not  lose  its  power  by  long  and  minute  examina- 
tion ;  the  writer  lingered  about  the  rapids  three  days,  and 
the  effect  was  rather  heightened  by  new  discoveries  than 
weakened  by  familiarity. 

The  most  magnificent  general  view  is  from  a  part  of  the 
precipice  which  projects  over  the  abyss  20  feet,  and  which 
is  gained  by  a  descent  of  15  feet.  This  is  halfway  between 
the  commencement  and  the  termination  of  the  rapids,  near 
the  highest  part  of  the  mountain  through  which  they  pass, 
not  less  than  1,000  feet  above  the  water,  and  Hfibrdsthe  best 
view  of  the  second  and  third  falls,  one  of  which  is  almost 
under  the  projection.  The  rock-house,  formerly  the  entrance 
of  the  Indian's  paradise,  but  now  the  eagle's  habitation,  is 
seen  ;  the  earth  in  front  and  on  either  hand  opens  wide  and 
deep ;  under  it  is  seen  and  heard  the  pouring  and  dashing 
of  the  cataracts.  4 

Tlie  rock-house  is  an  entrance,  apparently  10  feet  square, 
leading  into  the  perpendicular  face  of  the  rock,  too  far  down 
the  side  to  be  accessible.  We  were  informed  by  the  guide,  of 
nn  Indian  trac^ition,  that  this  is  the  door  of  jIlLradise.  They 
had  frequently  traced  iheir  lost  companions  to  this  spot,  and 
could  never  hear  of  them  again  ;  since  which.no  Indian  has 
been  known  to  hunt  near  the  rapids  of  Tallulah.  At  present 
the  less  superstitious  eagle  finds  there  a  safe  retreat  to  rear 
her  young. 

There  are  three  places  of  descent  to  the  bed  of  the  river; 
two  of  these  meet  at  the  same  place,  and  the  other  leads  to 
the  bottom  of  the  upper  fall.  The  other  falls  have  been  ap- 
proached very  seldom,  and  only  by  fording  up  the  stream. 
Both  descents  cannot  easily  be  performed  the  same  day ;  the 
upper  one  to  the  fall  is  the  most  interesting.  To  look  out  at 
the  opening  of  this  deep  gulf  pays  the  excessive  fatigue  of 
the  lower  descent,  but  the  view  from  several  positions  above 
produces  the  most  enchanting  effect  of  grandeur  and  sub« 
Jimity. 

The  best  judges,  however,  unanimously  express  a  prefer- 
ence for  the  rapids  of  Tallulah.  As  at  the  Table  Mountain, 
BO  also  two  days  at  least  should  be  devoted  to  the  rapids. 

Mud  Creek  Fall  is  25  miles  north  of  Tallulah.  The  whole 
fall  of  the  cataract  is  280  feet,  and  the  effect  is  eminently 
iuteresting. 

The  Carribee  Mountain,  one  mile  from  the  Tockoa  Falls, 
as  first  described,  afibrds  a  rich  reward  for  the  toil  of  gaininff 

41* 


p 


486 


Falls  in  Georgia. 


I. 


its  gummit.  On  ihe  north  is  a  view  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  sun 
pasied  in  its  progpect  of  mountain  piled  on  mountains,  per- 
haps by  no  other  site  in  the  United  States.  On  the  south, 
Georgia  and  South  Carolina,  vrith  the  exception  of  a  few 
plantations  on  the  Tugaloo,  present  ono  unbroken  forest  as 
far  as  the  eyesight  extends.  As  you  traverse  this  forest 
you  will  sometimes  see  splendid  situations  insulated  from 
the  rest  of  the  world  in  the  fertile  valleys,  surrounded  by  the 
conveniences,  the  elegancies,  and  the  domestic  refinements 
of  social  life.  The  fertility  of  the  soil,  the  salubrity  of  the 
climate,  the  vicinity  of  boat  navigation,  in  a  word,  every  na- 
tural advantage  unites  to  persuade  u«(  that  cultivated  planta- 
tions, elegant  and  happy  homes,  and  spires  of  churches,  may 
one  day  be  seen  from  the  Carribte,  as  they  are  now  from  the 
top  of  Mount  Holyoke. 

The  mountain  rock  through  which  the  TalUiIah  passeg  ig 
of  a  dark  grey,  sometimes  approaching  a  blue  color.  The 
first  bed  of  rocks,  descending  perhaps  160  feet,  is  irregularly 
broken  into  masses  of  all  forms  and  sizes,  then  succeed 
others  with  loM[  parallel  seams,  dipping  in  a  regular  line 
with  the  fall  of  the  river ;  these  rest  upon  a  third  class  of 
rocks,  solid  and  of  a  light  grey,  which  form  the  bed  of  the 
stream.  The  Indians  say  that  no  fish,  not  even  the  smalle»t 
minnow,  are  found  above  the  rapids. 

Springs  impregnated  with  lime  and  iron  are  found  in  the 
vicinity.  Alum  and  a  hill  containing  a  mineral  resembling 
coal  are  situated  below  the  rapids.  A  few  white  pine  and 
hemlock  trees  grow  upon  the  rapids.  They  are  the  only 
trees  of  the  kind  which  I  have  seen  in  South  Carolina  and 
Georgia,  and  gentlemen  from  both  these  States  were  of  our 
party  who  had  never  before  seen  the  species.  None  of  our 
company  had  seen  the  spruce  pine  in  these  Stales.  We  no- 
ticed eight  species  of  oaks,  white,  red,  black,  Spanish  post, 
black  jack,  chestnut,  and  live  oak. 

The  following  is  from  an  ancient  '^history  of  the  Chero- 
kee country : 

The  natives  make  two  divisions  of  their  country,  which 
they  term  Ayratt  and  Ottare^  or  low  and  mountainous.  The 
former  division  is  on  the  head-waters  of  the  beautiful  Savan- 
nah River,  and  the  latter  on  those  of  the  easternmost  river  of 
the  Mississippi.  Their  towns  are  always  close  to  some  river 
or  creek,  as  there  the  land  is  commonly  very  level  and  fer- 


^ 


Atpeci  of  the  Cherokee  Country, 


Ml 


, 


tile,  on  account  of  the  frequent  washings  off  the  moiintaini, 
and  the  moisture  it  receives  from  the  waters  that  run  through 
their  fields.  The  eastern  or  lower  parts  of  this  country  are 
eharo  and  cold  to  a  Carolinian  in  winter,  and  yet  agreeable  ; 
but  those  towns  that  lie  among  the  Appalache  Mountains 
are  very  pinthing  to  such  who  are  unaccustomed  to  a  savage 
life.  The  ice  and  moio  continues  on  the  north  side  till  late  in 
the  spring  of  the  year — however  the  natives  are  well  provided 
for  it  by  their  bathing  and  anointing  themselves.  This  regi- 
men shuts  up  the  pores  of  the  body,  and  by  that  means  pre- 
vents too  great  a  perspiration  ;  and  an  accustomed  exercise 
of  bunting,  joined  with  the  former,  puts  them  far  above 
their  climate ;  they  are  almost  as  impenetrable  to  cold  as  a 
bar  of  steel,  and  the  severest  cold  is  no  detriment  to  their 
hunting. 

Formerly  the  Cherokces  were  a  very  numerous  and  potent 
nation.  Not  above  40  years  ago  they  had  64  towns  and  villa- 
ges, populous  and  full  of  women  and  children,  and  6,000 
fighting  men,  defended  by  blue-topped  ledges  of  inaccessi- 
ble mountains,  where  a  few  could  make  a  successful  cam- 
paign even  against  their  own  watchful  red-color  enemies. 
Their  towns  were  scattered  wide  of  each  other,  the  land  not 
admitting  of  any  other  settlement ;  it  is  a  rare  thing  to  see  a 
level  tract  of  400  acres.  They  are  also  strongly  attached  to 
rivers,  all  retaining  the  opinion  of  the  ancients,  that  rivers 
are  necessary  to  constitute  a  paradise.  Their  rivers  are  ge- 
nerally very  shallow  and  pleasant  to  the  eye,  for  the  land 
being  high,  the  waters  have  a  quick  descent ;  they  seldom 
overflow  their  banks,  unless  when  a  heavy  rain  falls  on  a 
deep  snow ;  then  it  is  frightful  to  see  the  huge  pieces  of  ice, 
mixed  with  a  prodigious  torrent  of  water,  rolling  down  the 
high  mountains,  and  over  the  steep  craggy  rocks,  so  im- 
petuous that  nothing  can  resist  their  force.  Two  old  tra- 
ders saw  an  instance  of  this  kind  which  swept  away  great 
plantations  of  oaks  and  pines,  that  had  their  foundations 
as  in  the  centre  of  the  earth,  it  overset  several  of  the 
higher  rocks,  where  the  huge  rafts  of  trees  and  ice  had 
stopped  up  the  main  channel,  and  forced  itself  through  the 
smaller  hills. 

Where  the  land  is  capable  of  cultivation,  it  would  produce 
any  thing  suitable  to  the  climate.  Hemp  and  wild  vine 
grapes  grow  there  spontaneously  to  admiration  in  plenty 
and  variety,    if  these  were  properly  cultivated,  there  must 


t  I 


H 


tr 


488 


Cherokee  Mountain*.   ''^> 


I  I  ■': 


■«' 


he  a  good  return.  There  is  not  a  more  healthful  region 
under  the  sun  than  this  country,  for  the  air  is  commonly 
open  and  clear,  and  plenty  of  wholesome  and  pleasant  wa- 
ter. 1  know  several  bold  rivers  that  fill  themselves  in  run* 
ning  about  30  miles,  counting  by  a  direct  course  from  their  se- 
veral different  founiainx,  and  which  are  almost  as'transparent 
as  glaHS.  The  natives  live  commonly  to  a  great  age,  which  is 
not  to  be  wondered  at,  when  we  consider  the  high  situation 
of  their  country  ;  the  exercises  they  pursue ;  the  richness  of 
the  soil,  that  produces  plenty  for  a  needful  support  of  life, 
without  fatiguing  or  overheating  the  planters;  the  advanta- 
ges they  receive  from  such  excellent  good  water  as  gushes 
out  of  every  hill  ;  and  the  great  additional  help  by  a  plain 
abstemious  life,  commonly  eating  And  drinking  only  ac- 
cording to  the  solicitations  of  nature.  Those  reach  to  a 
great  age  who  live  secure  by  the  fire-side,  but  no  climates 
or  constitutions  can  harden  the  human  body  and  make  it  bu'- 
let-proof.  The  Cherokee  country  abounds  with  the  best 
herbage  on  the  richer  parts  of  the  hills  and  mountains,  and 
a  great  variety  of  valuable  herbs  is  promiscuously  scattered 
on  the  lower  lands. 

From  the  head  of  the  southern  branch  of  SavannahKiyer 
it  does  not  exceed  half  a  mile  to  a  head  spring  of  the  Mi»- 
sissippi  water,  that  runs  through  the  middle  and  upper  parts 
(the  Tennessee  River)  of  the  Cherokee  nation  about  a  north- 
west course,  and  joining  other  rivers,  they  empty  themselves 
into  the  great  Mississippi  River.  The  above  fountain  is  call- 
ed Herbert's  Spring,  no  named  from  an  early  commissioner 
of  Indian  affairs ;  it  is  a  noted,  well  situated,  and  good  spring. 

The  Cherokee  Mountains  look  very  formidable  to  a  stran- 
ger, when  he  is  among  their  valleys,  encircled  with  their  pro- 
digious, proud,  contending  tops  ;  they  appear  as  a  great  mass 
of  black  and  blue  clouds,  interspersed  with  some  rays  of 
light.  But  they  produce  or  contain  every  thing  (or  health  and 
wealth ;  and  if  cultivated  by  the  rules  of  art,  would  furnish, 
perhaps,  as  valuable  medicines  as  the  eastern  countries,  and 
as  great  quantities  of  gold  and  silver  as  Peru  and  Mexico, 
in  proportion  to  iheir  situation  with  the  equator.  On  the  tops 
of  several  of  these  mountains  I  have  observed  tufts  of  grass 
deeply  tinctured  by  the  mineral  exhalations  from  the  earth, 
and  on  the  side  they  glistened  from  the  same  cause.  If  skil- 
ful alchy  mists  made  experiments  on  these  mountains,  they 
could  soon  satisfy  themselves  as  to  the  value  of  their  con- 
tents, and  probably  would  find  their  account  in  it. 


lioMle  up  thi  Houiatonick. 


489 


New  Rail-road  and  Statfc^roule  up  the 
Valley  of  the  lloiisalonlck  from  BrldKe- 
port  or  New  Haven* 

Bridgeport  is  reached  in  four  or  five  hours,  by  a  daily 
steam-boat  line,  that  starts  at  6  or  7  o'clock  in  the  morninfi; 
from  the  vicinity  of  Catharine  Market  or  Slip,  East  River } 
fare  50  to  75  cents ;  distance  58  miles.    (See  page  316.)        * 

The  neio  rail'^road  is  hen*  entered  upon,  that  is  finished, 
and  in  daily  use  to  New  Milford,  37  miles  on  the  Housato- 
nick,  passion  in  a  north-west  direction  up  the  borders  of  the 
Pequannee  River,  through  the  County  of  Fairfield  and  the 
townships  of  Trumbull  and  Newtown ;  crossing  the  HoU'> 
satonic  on  a  viaduct  to  New  Milford,  and  eontinuins  up  the 
beautiful  valley  to  Sheffield  and  Stockbridga,  Massacnusetts. 

This  route  may  even  be  used  in  winter,  or  any  other  sea- 
son, to  reach  Albany,  in  competition  with  other  facilities 
from  New-York  or  New  Haven ;  or  to  reach  Derby,  Dau- 
bury,  Southbury,  Woodbury,  Roxbury,  Bethlehem,  Litch- 
field, or  many  other  places  in  the  western  parts  of  Con- 
necticut. 

The  Valley  of  the  Pompefaug  River,  extending  north  from 
its  junction  with  the  Housatonick,  opposite  or  ncxr  New- 
town, through  Southbury  and  Woodbury,  is  worthy  of  no- 
tice, as  possessing  peculiar  attraction  in  rural  beauty  for  se- 
veral miles  on  the  nearest  road  to  Litchfield. 

Travelers  that  prefer  to  take  the  steam-boat  direct  from 
New- York  to  New  Haven,  and  thence  by  stage  to  Albany, 
will  intersect  the  above  route  from  Bridgeport,  in  the  north- 
west part  of  Connecticut ;  thus  one  may  be  used  in  goings 
the  other  in  returning. 


^'     Mincralogical  Tour*  i 

Koute  from  J^eio  Haven  through  Woodbridge,  10  mllos ; 
Bethany,  Middlebury,  Waterhury,  10;  Watertown,  8;  to 
Litchfield,  10;  and  thence  to  Goshen,  G  ;  Canaan,  9;  Salis- 
bury, and  by  the  Housatonick  Valley,  through  Sheffield,  12  ; 
Great  Harrington,  G ;  Stockbridge,  13 ;  Concord  and  Al- 
bany, 26. 

£very  week-day  stages  depart  on  the  route,  leaving  New 


f( 


410 


htinernlogical  Tour. 


Ha?en  early  in  tho  morning,  and  arrivinfi:  in  AlUony  the  neit 
day  Qt  a  o'clock  P.  M. ;  dimiince  110  niiieti;  farif  $5.  ' 

riiiH  intorciting  rido  Icadu  through  New  Hiiven  nnd 
Litchfiuld  Couiitifn,  in  Connecticut,  and  tho  w«>itern  piirt 
of  Borkihiio,  in  MnstsiMchusetta,  by  h  inuuntum  mute  replete 
with  beauty,  and  hIio  of  rouiu  notoriety  in  a  ininoralogical 
and  geoloKical  conaiderHtion.  % 

The  landy  nnd  level  plHin  of  New  Haven  in  pasfied  in  a 
westerly  direction,  forHlmut  two  nnles  to  ilotchkiastown,  at 
the  basie  of  the  West  Rock,  before  dcneribod,  (seo  pogo  303,) 
MS  a  body  of  green-stone  or  trap,  resting  on  Nandsione,  and 
presenting  n  bold  nnd  precipitous  front  of  400  foot  high. 
Ai>er  rounding  this  ridgn  close  to  its  base,  the  rood  takes  up 
a  direction  more  northerly  in  a  vallov,  contracted  on  the  east 
by  the  green-stone  range,  ond  on  tho  west  by  hills  of  slate- 
rock  ;  thisi  gorge  continues  for  some  miles  these  striking  and 
inagnificenl  features.  The  range  on  the  tight  in  honi-y,gray, 
atid  time-worn,  except  where  niae^ses  have  been  loosened  by 
the  elements,  or  sundered  and  toin  awny,  defaced  nnd  red- 
dened by  the  spoliations  of  man,  for  the  use  of  the  ncigli- 
boring  people,  and  in  New  Horvcn. 

As  we  proceed  north,  this  range  ia  concealed  by  the  culti- 
vated slopes  that  gradually  creep  up  and  encroach  on  ita 
sides  ;  the  hills  on  the  left  are  rather  abrupt  in  dencent  to- 
M'ards  the  valley.  A  few  miles  onward  the  trap  range  en- 
tirely disappears  beneath  the  soil  that  is  clad  in  thick  for- 
ests on  the  crowning  summit.  Tho  rond  follows  near  a  ver- 
dant low  ground,  and  u  lively  niillstream  at  the  base  of 
the  ranges. 

Lodge,  or  Hatchet  Fort,  about  seven  miles  from  New 
Haven,  was  one  of  the  concealed  residences  of  the  rogi' 
cides  GofTe  and  Whalley,  in  16G1,  when  their  lives  were  in 
jeopardy,  and  tliey  were  sought  at\er  by  the  English  govern- 
ment. On  the  declivity  of  a  hill  to  the  north,  is  a  spring  be- 
tween two  trees,  four  miles  north-west  of  Sperry's  farm  ; 
this  fountain  is  stoned  round,  ns  left  by  the  regicide  judges. 
When  they  came  to  thi««  spring,  one  of  ihem  said,  *'  Would 
to  God  we  had  a  hatchet !"  and  found  oae  soon  after,  and 
cut  down  boughs  for  a  shelter,  and  gave  ii  the  name  of 
Hatchet  Harbor.  On  an  eminence  west  of  this,  by  the  sido 
of  a  ledge  of  rocks  20  feet  high,  they  also  built  a  side  wall 
or  cover,  that  was  found  in  good  crder  as  late  as  1794,  and 
may  still  be  traced,  and  was  a  very  recluse  and  secreted 


Mlneralogical  Tour. 


plnco.  From  nn  cininnncn  nonr  hy,  cnilccj  Fort  Hill,  tliera 
wns  un  oxientiivti  look-out,  nixl  m  full  vintv  nf  llio  h(iil:or, 
uiid  of  voioIh  puKaitiK  in  niid  out.  Thuy  liaii  oilier  tempo- 
rnry  lodiru*,  oiiu  at  PuujeaRMOt,  or  Dt^iliv  ;  on«  Ht  Totoket, 
or  Brnriiord  ;  nttd  un  HAyliiiii  at  jMilior(f,  nt  Mr.  Tomkini', 
30  rods  rroiii  the  iMeitting-liouMP,  in  ii  house  20  feet  nquaff , 
of  Iwu  Htoriec;  tlin  lowor  wub  l>uilr  with  a  lione  vvnli  an  a 
Mtore-room,  that  nhovu  of  wood,  nnd  uwed  Hit  a  S|iinriitiK- 
roum ;  the  family,  ignorHut  of  the  occupants  Ixdow,  whoru 
ihuy  residod  lor  two  yunrs  without  going  abroad,  so  hoi  wns 
the  pursuit  of  ilu-m. 

In  a  few  milcN  llio  roud,  in  its  nxcent  ttp  the  valley,  in- 
clinos  niuro  to  tho  loft;  primilivo  ar^ilite  ui'  ftlute,  tortuous, 
glistening  with  vein<n,  and  ntanMes  of  quartz  appearing  like 
rock-salt,  several  feot  ni  diameter,  and  in  large  pieces  uncon- 
nected with  nny  rock,  are  .socn  on  the  west  of  the  valley. 
Mica  slate  alternates  and  blends  with  other  rocks  in  some 
upol.s,  and  buitding-Hlute  is  quarried.  Ei^ht  miles  from  New 
Haven  the  road  suddenly  turns  to  the  west,  and  crosses  the 
strata  before  mentioned,  with  argilite  for  two  miles,  and  in 
six  or  seven  miles  immenHO  etrata  of  mica  slate,  vertical  or 
inclined,  is  crossed  ;  and  in  14  miles  from  New  Haven  wo 
are  on  the  Beacon  Mountain,  a  rough  castellated  range,  ex- 
tending northeast  to  south-west.  Here  is  Collins'  Tavern, 
an  old  and  excellent  eHtablishment,  and  the  Straitville 
post-office. 

A  deep  gulf  or  defile  here  H(n)rd8  a  narrow  passage  amid 
the  scraggy  rocks  that  arise  in  lofty  and  impending  masses, 
and  appear  to  threaten  destruction  to  the  passing  traveler. 
In  the  rocks  are  garnets  and  staurotide,  and  tho  large  debris 
at  the  base  have  left  the  strata  overhanging,  arching,  and 
presenting  fine  geological  and  picturesque  eflt'Cts.  After 
threading  thix  narrow  gorge  by  the  side  of  a  rivulet,  and 
then  crossing  some  hills,  in  three  or  four  miles  we  come 
upon  the  Naugatuck^  a  branch  of  the  Housatonick,  at  the 
bottom  of  a  deep  dell,  and,  on  crossing  it,  at  a  small  cluster 
of  houses,  called  Salem,  with  a  church  on  a  hi^h  hill,  form- 
ing a  pleasing  object  in  the  landscape ;  we  strike  the  gneiss 
rocks,  and  continue  over  a  hilly,  picturesque,  and  beautiful 
country,  to  Waterlown,  28  miles  from  New  Haven. 

IVaierbury,  that  k  left  a  few  miles  to  the  east,  is  situated 
in  a  vallev,  washed  by  the  Mad  River  onvthe  east,  and  the 
Naugatuck  on  the  west;  has  4  churches^  150  houses,  aM 


I  i 


499 


Waterhury  and  Watertown. 


|! 


1,500  pooplf!,  thai  are  employerl  in  the  trade  of  making  pilt 
buttons,  and  the  rolling  oP  hrass  and  copper  metals,  in  five 
factories,  on  an  extensive  scale,  and  in  making  brass  ware  and 
tubeing  ;  the  mnking  of  wooden  clocks  is  also  quite  a  largo 
business  in  this  tovrn.  There  are  two  satinet  and  one  wool- 
en factory,  and  many  minor  auxiliary  works.  The  avails  of 
the  whole  are  estimated  at  $1,000,000  a  year.  A  canal  is  to 
be  made  to  brin^  the  water  of  the  Naugatuck  into  available 
operation.  In  early  times  the  first  settlers  had  to  go  20  miles 
to  Farmington  to  mill,  through  a  wilderness,  to  get  their 
corn  ground. 

Samuel  Hopkins,  D.  D.  the  author  of  the  System  of 
Theology  that  bears  his  name,  was  born  in  this  town  in  1721, 
and  such  was  th(>n  the  purity  of  manners  among  the  youth 
of  this  place,  that  for  15  years,  while  he  livod  with  his  pa- 
rents, employed  in  agriculture,  he  never  heard  any  of  them 
use  a  profane  expression;  he  lived  and  studied  at  North- 
ampton with  the  celebrated  Edwards,  and  was  settled  at 
Great  Barrington,  and  aftcrwar's  at  Newport,  R.  I.  where 
he  died  in  1803.  Dr.  Idaniuel  h  kins,  a  poet,  was  born  here 
in  1750. 

Near  Watertown  granite  is  seen  in  loose  masses,  and 
two  miles  U^eyond,  graphic  granite  and  radiated  or  plumose 
mica,  both  handsome.  The  feldspar  of  the  granite  is  white, 
with  a  high  pearly  lustre,  end  the  gray  quartz  is  delicate- 
ly intermixed  in' graphic  forms  in  specimens  of  extreme 
delicacy. 

Watertown  is  on  a  hill,  and  has  a  smiling  appearance  with 
its  two  neat  churches  and  spires,  and  white  houses  ;  a  lively 
stream  of  water,  bordered  by  a  chain  of  rich  meadows, 
adds  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  place.  This  town  has  been 
noted  for  the  size  of  its  forest  trees.  It  is  said  that  one  of 
the  Arst  settlers,  having  no  s'.ielter  for  the  night,  peeled  off 
the  bark  of  a  tree  and  laid  down  on  the  inside;  in  the  morn- 
ing, when  he  awoke,  he  found  the  bark  rolled  up  so  closely 
that  he  was  entrapped,  and  could  with  difficulty  extricate 
himself.  Another  owe,  by  the  name  of  Brown,  in  his  hungry 
days,  sold  one  of  his  sons  to  a  neighbor  for  a  barrel  of  pork, 
in  order  to  sustain  the  rest  of  his  family.  Some  of  the  most 
respectable  inhabitants  of  the  town  are  the  descendants  of 
this  child. 

John  Trumbull  the  poet,  the  author  of  M'Fingal,  a  sa- 
lire  of  some  celebrity,  was  born  in  this  tor;fii  in  an  old-fa- 


Woodbury  Valley  Mineralogy. 


m 


•hioned  double-house,  of  one  chimney,  and  a  low  sloping 
roof  to  the  rear,  a  iialf  mile  below  the  Congregniional 
Church,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Waterbury  road,  a  large  elm 
tree  being  seen  at  a  distance  in  the  background — now  owned 
by  Mr.  Pitcher. 

Woodbury,  that  we  have  left  a  short  distance  to  the  south- 
west, from  our  road  to  Watertown,  is  too  interesting  a  spot 
to  the  mineralogist  to  pass  unnoticed  when  so  near  at  hand, 
and  so  easily  visited. 

The  village  contains  two  Congregational,  one  Episcopal, 
and  one  Methodist  churches,  and  70  or  80  houses  pleasantly 
situated  in  a  level  valley,  near  the  confluence  of  a  number 
of  small  streams  that  form  the  Pomparaug.  It  is  surrounded 
by  high  hills  on  every  side,  forming  an  amphitheatre*,  the 
valley  extends  north  and  south  for  eight  miles.  The  geolo- 
gical traveler  is  instantly  struck,  on  entering  this  low  basin, 
with  its  marked  difference  of  features  from  the  country  en- 
closing it. 

From  flat  and  alluvial  plains  rise  abruptly  fronts  of  dark 
colored  and  frowning  naked  rock,  of  mural  precipices  and 
sharp  ragged  ridges  fringed  with  wood,  with  debris  reaching, 
as  usual,  from  the  base  half  or  two-thirds  up  the  precipice. 
The  hill,  east  of  the  main  street,  is  of  considerable  eleva- 
tion, and  on  its  westerly  front  resembles  the  east  and  west 
rocks  near  New  Haven,  on  a  small  scale,  and  forms  a  very 
striking  and  singular  feature  to  the  stranger  on  his  arrival 
in  this  lowland  prairie  or  basin  of  secondary  trap,  the  whin- 
stone  of  the  Scotch,  the  grunstein  or  green-stone  of  the 
Germans,  on  the  old  red  sand-stone  of  Werner,  in  the  midst 
of  an  ocean  of  gneiss. 

This  remarkable  depression  and  conformation  of  surface 
did  not  escape  the  notice  of  Mr  M'Lure,  in  his  book  on  the 
Geology  of  the  United  States.  Prehnite  is  found  here  in 
abundance,  and  of  beautiful  quality,  among  the  stones  louse 
at  the  bottom  of  the  precipices,  in  mamillary  andbotryoidal, 
or  clustered  grape-like  masses,  or  in  almost  perfect  spheres, 
or  in  veins  or  diverging  fibres,  of  a  delicate  green  color. 
Agates,  tourmalines,  and  zeolites  are  also  found,  and  bitu- 
minous stones,  and  fibrous  limestone,  as  though  soaked  in 
tar,  the  true  asphaltum.  Has  this,  then,  ever  been  a  second 
Sodom  and  Gomorrah?  a  sunken  spot,  a  sort  of  dead  sea, 
or  a  lake  of  liquid  fire,  like  the  yawning  fiery  abyss  of 
Hawaii? 

42 


<l 


•It 


494 


RouU  to  Litchfield,  ^  . 


W ' 


From  the  fuoimit  of  the  ridge,  on  the  easterly  nide  of  thif 
vale  of  the  Pomperaug  ur  Woorfbiirjr,  nn  ohgf  rver  may  look 
down  directly  into  the  village,  with  its  streets  and  gardeni 
beneath  hit  eyes,  like  an  exquisite  mop  or  page  of  the  book 
of  nature,  with  a  bright  silvery  stream  ripphng  throu|zh  its 
meadows  of  vivid  green,  and  may  trace  its  winding  path  by 
the  trees  that  incline  over  its  crystal- like  waters,  count  the 
comfortable  farm-houses  that  dot  the  valley,  as  it  fades  to 
indistinctness,  and  mingles  with  the  vapory  and  distant 
boundnries  of  this  exquisite  and  secluded  panorama. 

The  Bethel  Rock,  a  favorite  place  of  resort,  is  on  the  east' 
em  side  of  the  ledge  of  rockii,  as  the  village  is  entered  from 
the  south,  half  a  mil6  east  of  the  Episcopal  church,  and  is 
a  rock  40  (ttt  high,  leaning  over  eastward  three  or  four  feet, 
and  affording  shelter  and  shade  from  the  noonday  sun. 

The  Rev.  Zachariah  Walker  wan  the  first  minister  in  this 
place  in  1668,  and  before  that  in  Jamaica,  Long  Island,  and 
from  thence  removed  to  Stratford  and  to  Woodbury.  There 
were  two  licenciates  then  preaching  in  Stratford,  Mr.  Wal- 
ker find  Mr.  Read.  As  there  was  some  controversy  who 
should  leave  and  go  with  the  Woodbury  settlers,  the  two 
licenciates  were  requested  to  deliver  a  discourse  on  the  day 
when  it  was  to  be  decided,  Mr.  Walker  in  the  forenoon  and 
Mr.  Read  ia  the  afternoon.  Mr.  Walker  took  for  his  text, 
"  What  went  ye  out  into  the  wilderness  to  see  7  a  reed  shak- 
en with  the  wind?  He  enlarged  upon  the  circumstance  and 
propriety  of  a  reed  being  found  in  the  wilderness ;  and  Mr. 
Read  in  the  aflernoon  took  for  his  text,  "Your  adversary,  the 
^QsW^toalketh  about,  seeking  whom  he  may  devour."  In  the 
course  of  his  observations  he  stated,  that  the  great  adver- 
sary of  men  was  a  great  walker,  and  instead  of  remaining 
with  the  brethren,  ought  to  be  kept  walking  at  a  distance 
from  them. 

Bethlehem,  32  miles  from  New  Haven,  seven  and  a  half 
from  Litchfield,  and  six  from  Watertown,  lies  a  short  dis- 
tance west  of  our  road,  and  is  remarkable  as  being  the  resi- 
dence of  two  able  divines  of  former  years.  Rev.  Joseph  Bel- 
lamy, D.  D.  author  of  *'  True  Religion  Delineated,"  and  the 
Rev.  Azel  Backus,  the  successor  of  Dr.  Bellamy,  and  after- 
wards the  first  President  of  Hamilton  College  in  New-York. 

Litchfi£ldj  the  seat  of  the  county  courts,  is  100  miles  from 
New-Yerk,  38  from  New  Haven,  and  30  from  Hartford. 
The  township  comprises  much  mountainous  land,  computed 


l{ 


Vicinity  of  Litchfield. 


496 


to  be  1,200  or  1,500  feet  above  tide,  and  with  an  agreeable 
lurface  of  hills  and  daleA  running  north  and  south;  and  of 
these  Mount  Tom  is  the  highest.  The  Lake,  of  900  acres,  to 
the  south* west  of  the  village,  is  a  handsome  expanse  of  wa- 
ter, (is  five  miles  long  and  one  wide,)  said  to  be  the  largest 
in  the  Stale,  and  filled  withfibh.  This  town  abounds  in  good 
springs  of  water;  has  the  name  of  a  healthy  situation,  and 
a  tine,  pure,  and  salubrioun  nir.  The  village,  of  uuwards  of 
lOOdwelJing-hou.'tes  and  800  inhabitants,  is  famou8iy  located 
on  a  plateau  of  table  land,  having  extensive  prospects  and 
very  interesting  scenery.  Tho  principal  street  is  200  feet 
wide,  a  mile  and  a  half  long,  from  north-west  to  south- 
east,  besides  cross  streets,  east  and  west,  of  400  feet  wide  : 
the  whole  comprising  many  handsome  residences,  painted 
white,  and  embellished  with  gardens,  court-yards,  shrubbe- 
ry, trees,  and  ornamental  fences  of  much  taste  and  beauty 
in  the  eyes  of  the  admiring  traveler,  with  a  public  square  in 
the  centre,  and  two  fine  parks.  There  is  a  branch  of  the  Phe- 
nix  Bank  of  Hartford,  two  printing-offices,  a  court-house, 
jail,  professional  offices,  mercantile  stores  and  mechanic 
shops,  it  formerly  had  a  law-school  of  celebrity,  under  Tap- 
ping Reeve,  a  judge  and  jurist  of  eminence,  and  assisted  by 
James  Gould,  to  which  law  students  resorted  from  all  parts 
of  the  United  States  There  is  a  high  school  for  young  la- 
dies, in  which  music  and  the  common  and  also  higher 
branches  are  taught.  Here  is  also  an  infirmary  for  curing 
diseases  of  the  spine.  In  Litchfield  South  Farms  is  also  an 
academy,  that  was  established  in  1790  by  James  Morris,  for 
teaching  the  higher  branches,  the  classics,  &c.  thut  is  yet 
ably  kept  up  by  his  successors. 

Mount  Prospect  is  a  rocky,  wood-clad,  elevated  ridge  of 
two  miles  in  extent.  From  its  summit  an  interesting  and  di- 
versified view  is  presented  of  villages  and  lakes,  and  of  a  well 
cultivated  country.  A  chalybeate  spring,  on  the  east  side  of 
this  mountain,  four  miles  west  of  Litchfield,  copious  and 
perennial,  issues  from  a  bed  of  sulphuret  of  iron,  and  de- 
posites  oxide  of  iron,  ochre,  &c. ;  a  smell  of  sulphur  is  per- 
ceived, and  remains  on  the  hands  after  washing.  Rheuma- 
tism and  debility  are  cured  by  using  the  waters.  Sienite,  in 
ledges  of  some  height,  with  crystals  of  feldspar,  is  the  com- 
p»nent  rock. 

Oliver  Wolcott,  the  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence, was  a  native  of  Windsor,  but  resided  here  many 


« I 


496 


Vicinity  of  Litchfield. 


\ 


years;  he  was  invested  with  many  offices  in  his  day,  and 
when  in  tho  enjoyment  of  the  last  and  highest,  that  of  Qo* 
vernor  of  this  State,  he  died.  He  was  the  son  of  Roger 
Wblcolt,  also  a  Governor  durin;;  the  colony.  The  last  Oli' 
ver  Wolcott^  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  under  Waslringtou, 
and  Governor  of  Connecticut  from  1817  to  1827,  will  ever 
be  memorable  as  having  been  the  third  person  of  that  name 
invested  by  a  different  generation  with  that  distinction.  Ho 
died  in  New- York,  in  1S33,  while  on  a  visit. 

The  outlet  of  the  lake  forms  the  Shepau;;  River,  a  branch 
of  the  Housatonick,  that  it  unites  with  in  Southbury,  about 
20  miles  below. 

Litchfield  is  surrounded  with  a  rich  agricultural  country, 
swelled  into  graceful  hills,  and  scooped  into  luxuriant  val- 
leys, the  whole  covered  with  verdure,  and  exhibiting  an  in- 
teresting and  gratifying  spectacle.  The  hill  reposes  on  mica 
slate,  and  this  continues  to  be  the  prevalent  rock  on  the  road 
to  Goshen.  Garnets  and  staurotide  are  often  found  in  il ; 
some  of  the  crystals  of  the  last  form  the  cross.  Drawing  a 
meridian  line  from  this,  the  country  on  the  east  is  granite 
to  the  Atlantic,  and  to  the  west  limestone  to  the  Mi8i=iissippi, 
with  some  exceptions,  and  interruptions  by  slate  and  granite. 

Between  Litchfield  and  Goshen,  ledges  of  granite  and 
gneisr  are  crossed  in  immediate  succession.  Goshen  is  a 
pretty  village,  with  a  neat  Congregational  Church,  and  some 
other  houses  in  the  centre,  but  the  population  is  principally 
in  scattered  farms,  well  adapted  to  grazing,  and  having  the 
best  dairies,  and  producing  the  best  butter  and  cheese  in 
the  State.  The  township  is  the  most  elevated  in  the  State, 
but  not  generally  mountainous,  the  surface  being  undulating 
with  a  diversity  of  hills  and  dales  ;  the  soil  is  a  gravelly 
loam,  .'-^ep,  strong,  and  fertile.  The  inhabitants  are  indus- 
trious, pro«perou8,  and  happy,  with  comfort  and  neatness  in 
all  their  dw*'llings. 

Ivy  Mounlain^mi\aB{own^  is  the  highest  land  in  the  State  ; 
it  affords  a  most  extensive  and  interesting  prospect  of  tlie 
distant  Catskills,  and  of  the  elevations  near  Connecticut 
River,  and  of  the  Taughkanock  range,  or  Mount  Washing- 
ton near  by,  at  the  north-west  corner  of  the  State  and  the 
line  of  Massachusetts. 

Canada  Village  is  a  cluster  of  several  mills  and  manufac- 
turing establishments,  one  and  a  half  miles  from  the  cer're 
of  the  settlement,  aud  has  a  Methodist  Church.  The  stream 


a 


,'\ 


Routt  from  Oo$hen  to  Canaan. 


497 


ung- 
the 

kifac- 

ream 


that  passes  this  place  is  fed  from  a  large  pond  in  the  vicinity, 
and  is  not  afiected  by  drought  or  freshets. 

On  leavinju;  Goshen  a  great  defile  is  entered,  and  vast 
Icdgeft  of  gneiss  are  on  buth  sides,  forming  entire  mountains, 
a  winding  valley,  and  ac  far  as  the  eye  can  stretch  to 
the  north,  mountains  rise  behind  mountams,  till  they  fall 
away  in  the  distant  horizon.  In  passing  on  from  Goshen  into 
the  corner  of  Cornwall,  and  to  CanHan,  the  country  becomes 
very  hilly,  and  we  cross  great  ledges  of  gneiss,  with  veins 
of  quartz. 

On  leaving  Goshen,  in  .':«  road  to  Canaan,  we  follow  a 
deep  gorge  or  indentation  that  descends  rapidly  for  two 
miles ;  and  at  the  head  of  the  valley  we  look  through  a  long 
magnificent  vista,  terminating  in  two  promontories  that  in- 
trude  into  the  valley  in  grand  style,  as  we  look  north-west 
towards  Salisbury,  Canaan,  Sheffield,  Mount  Washington, 
and  Egremont,  united  by  Taughknnock  on  the  north-west, 
one  of  the  giants  of  Massachusetts.  The  valley  contains  a 
mill-stream  that  accompanies  our  descent,  and  groves  of 
white  pines  riso  on  its  borders. 

A  short  distance  onward,  on  the  banks  of  a  rivulet  called 
the  HoUenbeck,  in  a  secluded  spot  in  the  midst  of  moun- 
tains, is  an  anchor  and  iron  manufactory,  (formerly  owned 
by  four  brothers  of  the  name  of  Hunt,)  that  has  supplied 
many  large  anchors  for  theshipsof  war  of  the  United  States, 
cf  eight,  nine,  and  ten  thousand  pounds ;  the  ore  is  that  of 
Salisbury,  and  is  on  the  spot  reduced  to  a  malleable  state  by 
being  first  pulverized  Hy  ponderous  machinery,  and  thrown 
into  a  largo  fire  and  melted.  Screws  of  the  largest  kind  are 
also  here  made. 

The  mineralogy  and  geology  of  this  vicinity  possesses 
some  interest,  and  the  scenery  and  picturesque  features  of 
the  landscape  is  attractive  ;  fragments  of  dolomite  are  seen, 
with  line  specimens  of  the  crystals  of  trcmolite,  and  ledges 
of  white  limei(tone.  We  are  now  in  the  limestone  val- 
ley of  the  Hausatonick,  extending  from  Bridgeport  and 
Stratford,  on  Long  Island  Sound,  through  NewMilford,  and 
to  the  head-waters  of  the  Housatonick  around  West  Stock- 
bridge,  in  Massachusetts,  and  even  into  Vermont  to  the  Ca- 
nadian border. 

A  road  here  diverges  from  our  route  and  crosses  the  river 
Housatonick  to  the  west,  by  and  through  Salisbury,  touching 
the  new  rail-road  from  New- York  to  Albany,  and  crossinr 

42* 


M 


W 


498 


Valley  of  the  Housatonick. 


the  Ancram  Creek  Valley  that  extendg  north-east  to  south- 
west for  30  miles  towards  Poughkeepsle,  by  a  good  carriage- 
road,  near  the  Wappinger's  Creek,  on  the  level  borders  of 
which  it  in  p?  *  ibllows,  with  the  lofty  range  of  the  Taugh- 
kanock  Mou  tins  at  the  angle  of  Massachusetts  and  Con> 
necticut  bordering  on  the  east,  and  filling  the  horizon  with 
its  grandjur. 

The  falls  of  the  Housatonick,  one  quarter  of  a  mile  above 
the  bridge,  where  they  fall  for  60  feet  over  a  limestone  ledge, 
are  about  30  rods  wide,  with  a  front  irregular  and  broken, 
giving  a  variety  of  beautiful  forms.  The  entire  descent  in  a 
short  space,  including  other  falls  and  rapids  above  and  be- 
low the  main  chute,  is  130  feet.  The  buildings  of  the  Salis- 
bury Iron  Manufacturing  Company  are  adjacent;  other 
iron  works,  saw-mills,  &c.  Within  five  to  ten  miles  are  the 
North-west  Lake,  the  North-east  Lake,  and  Furnace  Lake, 
three  large  sheets  of  water  secluded  among  the  mountains. 

In  Cornwall,  the  adjoining  town  on  the  south,  veins  of 
black  lead  and  beds  of  porcelain  cliiy  have  been  discovered. 
The  village,  situated  in  a  deep  vale,  consists  of  a  neat  church 
and  20  dwellings,  painted  white,  that  contrast  well  with  the 
verdure  of  the  interval,  and  the  lofty  mountains  that  euvi* 
run  them. 

Following  the  valley  of  the  Housatonick  for  12  miles, 
bounded  by  the  Green  Mountains  on  the  east,  and  Taugh- 
kannock  on  the  west,  that  has  a  chain  of  rich  land  through- 
out, we  arrive  at  Sheffield,  a  town  built  on  a  single  street  of 
four  and  a  half  miles  on  the  west  of  the  valley  ;  it  is  much 
in  the  style  of  towns  on  Connecticut  River;  a  long,  strag- 
gling, but  pleasant  settlement,  having  for  its  adornment  the 
everlasting  hills  and  the  sublime  mountains  of  which  the 
Taughkannock  is  decidedly  the  most  imposing  feature,  as 
il  is  3,000  feet  in  height  nbove  tide;  from  its  summit  is  a 
grand  and  eytensive  prospect.  Saddle  Mountain,  in  Wil- 
lianistown,  at  the  northwest  cornerof  Massachusetts,  near 
the  Vermont  line,  rises  at  the  head  of  the  Housatonick  Val- 
ley, 40  miles  to  the  north.  The  Cafskills,  also  40  miles  to 
the  west,  and  the  ranges  of  the  Highlands  that  l>o  der  on  the 
Hudson  below  Nevvburgh  and  Fishkill,  bound  our  view  in 
that  part.  The  Green  Mountain  in  its  interminable  extent, 
with  Mount  Tom  rising  in  a  distinct  point  above,  and  even 
the  Monadnock  in  very  clear  states  of  the  atmosphere, 
though  70  mibs  off  to  the  north  easi,  can  be  discerned ;  and 


Scenery  near  Stockbridge. 


499 


such  are  the  elements  comprised  in  the  distant  panorama, 
And  in  the  nearer  smiling  rich  vales  and  flourishing  eettle- 
ments  around  its  base,  that  an  ascent  of  the  mountain  is 
eminently  gratifying. 

The  Oblong,  a  strip  of  land  of  two  miles  in  width,  that 
begins  at  the  base  of  this  mountain  and  extends  to  the 
Sound,  was  ceded  to  New-York  by  Connecticut  in  17 — ,  in 
exchange  for  a  square  tract  of  equal  size,  comprising 
Greenwich,  Stamford,  and  Norwalk,  on  Long  Island  Sound. 

Great  Barrington,  six  miles  above  Sheffield,  is  also  built 
in  the  style  of  the  former,  on  a  single  street,  upon  the  Hou- 
satonick  River  side,  on  a  prolonged  street,  that  has  a  church 
and  a  few  houses  scattered  along. 

Monument  Mountain*  is  next  in  course,  and  after  passing 
its  ridge,  the  country  on  the  north  is  finely  developed  to  the 
view.  The  front  of  the  mountain  to  the  east  exhibits  a  pre- 
cipice 550  feet  hisrh,  rising  close  on  the  margin  of  the  road  ; 
in  front  is  the  valley  and  the  river  that  for  several  miles  has 
Its  course  from  east  to  west,  and  on  each  side  are  hills  and 
farm-houses  that  aid  and  enrich  the  viv<^w.  North  of  the  town 
is  a  hill  with  a  grove  on  its  summit,  and  the  Rattlesnake 
Mountain  completes  the  hack  ground. 

Stockbridge  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  townships  for  resi- 
4lence  in  New  England  ;  it  abounds  in  romantic  and  delight- 
ful spots,  and  the  pen  of  one  of  the  most  accomplished  and 
popular  writers  of  this  country.  Miss  Sedgwick,  who  re- 
sides here,  has  conferred  upon  it  great  celebrity  and  im- 
mortality. 

On  the  mountains  in  this  neighborhood  are  evidences  of 
violent  disruptions  of  the  rocks  in  several  places  where  im- 
mense masses  have  fallen,  and  are  confusedly  spread  out  in 
the  valley,  thus  forming  recesses  where  ice  is  preserved 
during  the  heats  of  summer.  In  one  place  a  rock,  30  feet 
long  and  120  wide,  quitted  its  bed  and  descended  the  moun- 
tain, and  was  lodged  on  two  rocks  at  the  base.  On  the  top 
of  one  of  these,  a  round  stone,  15  inches  in  diameter,  car- 
ried down  at  the  same  time,  is  the  support  of  the  huge  rock 
above.  The  large  rock  is  called  the  Table  ;  several  persons 
under  it  may  remain  without  difficulty  or  inconvenience. 

From  West  Stockbridge  and  from  Hudson  the  rail-road 


•  A  name  derived  from  a  pllo  of  stones  eight  feet  in  diameter,  and 
raised  to  a  cone  over  an  Indian  grave. 


I  1 


v 


500 


Rail'Toad  to  Hudson. 


cars  leave  each  end  of  the  lino  at  8  o'clock  in  the  morning^^ 
and  at  3  P.  M*,  and  make  a  trip  twice  a  day,  meeting  ar 
Chatham  Four  Corners;  fare  $1  50;  time  two  hours;  dis- 
tance 30  miles.  Stages  and  conveyances  to  Lehanon  Springs 
and  the  Shnker  Village  are  readily  obtained,  and  to  Pitts- 
field  and  other  places.  The  rail-road  cost  only  $16,000  per 
mile,  and  passes  through  the  Gap  at  Canaan^  the  only  prac-  ' 
ticable  route.  The  large  quantity  of  while  marble  for  the 
Girard  College  at  Philadelphia,  and  for  the  Cuslom- house 
at  New-York,  is  carried  from  Stockbridge  on  this  road,  and 
also  iron  ore  for  the  West  Point  Foundry  ;  30,000  passen- 
gers yearly  pass  from  Boston  to  Albany,  and  the  VVest,  by 
this  route.  The  scenery  at  Claverack  is  very  fine. 


. 


Rail-road   from  Norwich  to  IVorcesier. 

(58  miles,  102  to  Boston.    Capital  of  the  Company,  $1,500,000.) 

The  rall-rond  begins  at  Chelsea,  and  crosses  the  river  in 
a  few  miles  north-east  at  Jewett  City  ;  from  thence  it  ex- 
lends  up  the  valley  of  the  Quinebaug  to  the  State  of  IVlassa- 
chusetts,  and  unites  at  Worcester  with  the  great  rail-road 
from  Boston  to  the  Hudson;  the  fare  $5  by  this  route  from 
New-York  to  Boston. 

From  New  London,  that  has  been  described  at  page  327, 
our  route  is  continued  up  the  handsome  river  Thames  for  13 
miles  to  Chelsea,  or  J^orwich  City  or  Landing,  38  miles 
south-cast  of  Hartford,  3S  south-west  of  Providence,  and 
50  north-east  of  New  Haven  ;  population  3,500.  Chelsea, 
or  Norwich  City,  is  at  the  head  of  tide  at  the  point  of  con- 
fluence of  the  ^etucket  and  Yanlic  Rivers,  (there  the 
Thames,)  the  most  of  the  city  being  built  on  the  declivity  of 
a  high  rocky  steep  facing  the  south,  the  houses  rising  in 
terraces,  street  beyond  street,  as  approached  from  be- 
low, in  coming  up  the  river,  exhibits  an  interesting, l)eauti- 
ful,  and  even  romantic  effect.  The  bank  of  the  rivrr.  rocky, 
eJevated,  and  covered  with  foliage,  forms  a  delighuul  vista 
that  is  terminated  by  the  distant  city  with  its  white  build- 
ings, in  strong  contrast  to  the  more  sombre  hues  of  the  ad- 
jacent shores  of  the  rivor. 

The  city  requires  four  banks,  with  an  aggre^faie  capital  of 
$500,000,  and  it  has  a  Court-houge,  Town-hali,  a  school  for 


NorwicJi  to  Worceiter. 


501 


boys  and  another  for  girls,  termed  high-schools,  that  are  in 
good  repute. 

At  Greenville,  one  mile  east  of  the  landings,  is  a  dam  across 
the  Shetucket  River  that  gives  water-povirer  to  move  60,000 
spindles,  that  are  contained  in  live  large  cotton  factories ; 
here  are  three  very  extensive  paper-mills,  and,  in  all,  nine  or 
ten  establishments  for  manufacturing  purposes,  and  many  in 
other  parts  of  the  township,  of  cotton,  paper,  and  woolens. 
This  may  be  considered,  as  to  its  water  privileges,  a  highly- 
favoved  spot,  one  of  the  best  in  New  England,  so  near 
lo  tide.  There  are,  as  places  of  worship,  three  for  Congre- 
gationalists,  two  Methodist,  one  Episcopal,  one  Baptist,  and 
one  Universalist. 

The  Yantic  Falls,  near  Norwich,  are  at  the  head  of  a  cove 
that  sets  up  one  mile  from  the  Thames :  above  the  cove  the 
bed  of  the  river  is  of  solid  rock,  over  Which  the  entire  body 
of  water  falls  12  feet  on  a  bed  of  rocks.  The  river  is  here  re- 
stricted into  a  very  narrow  channel,  that  for  15  or  20  rods  has 
fl  gradual  descent,  is  crooked  and  jagged  with  pointed  rocks. 
The  rocks  at  the  foot  of  the  falls  are  curiously  excavated  by 
the  attrition  of  ages.  In  a  few  rods  the  river  expands  into 
the  calm  and  placid  surface  of  the  basin  or  cove.  The 
scenery  about  thes»  falls  is  picturesque  and  exqufsite,  and 
cannot  but  please  the  connoisseur. 

On  an  elevation  nouh  of  the  settlement  is  a  sacred  place 
in  ihe  estimation  of  the  rborigines,  that  formerly,  and  to 
this  day  huger  hereabouts,  being  the  burying-place  of  the 
Uncas,  or  the  sachems  or  heads  of  the  Mohegans. 

The  Old  Town  of  ,N*orwich  is  two  miles  north-west  of  the 
Chelsea  Landing,  and  contains  200  houses,  on  a  number  of 
pleasant,  rural  streets,  around  a  short  distance  from  the 
church.  The  former  Court-house  here  is  now  U8«*d  for  a 
school,  the  courts  being  held  at  Norwich  City.  The  old 
Court-house,  the  Union  Hotel,  and  the  Congregational 
Church  are  in  the  central  part  of  the  town.  Back  of  the 
f  hurch  is  a  rocky  eminence,  and  from  it  is  a  fine  prospect  of 
the  vkinity.  On  its  summit,  formerly,  was  a  powder-house, 
that  was  set  on  fire  and  blew  up  m  the  troubles  of  the 
revolution. 

Vyestvillc,  or  Bean  Hill,  is  a  mile  distant,  and  is  built  on 
one  street ;  and  on  thn  Vantic  is  a  woolen  factory,  and  for- 
merly were  iron  works  where  Glijuh  Backus  made  cannon  for 
the  Congress,  by  welding  together  pieces  of  iron. 


1 1 


k< 


502 


Norwich  to  Worcetter. 


Jewett  City  next  occurs  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Qttine- 
baugf  ns  the  stream  is  called,  above  the  confluence  of  the 
Shntucket,  a  few  miles  below.  It  is  a  flourishing  village  of 
1,000  inhabitants,  and  has  three  extensive  cotton  facturies, 
and  water-power  to  move  50,OuO  spindles,  a  bank  with  a  ca- 
pital of  S'100,000,  five  mercantile  stores,  and  a  Congrega- 
tional Church.   It  is  ei,t;ht  miles  north-east  from  NoFwich.^ 

Hopevilleis  a  little  manufacturing  place,  2^  mites  east  of 
S^  .  Jewett  City,  with  two  satinet  factories  and  20  houses,  be- 

sides two  cotton  factories  on  the  borders  of  Voluntown. 
'^  Canterbury  Village  is  next  passed,  and  is  pleasantly  situa- 
4ed  on  high  ground,  half  a  mile  west  of  the  Quinebaug, 
and  has  a  Congregational  Church,  and  some  houses  that  are 
clustered  around  a  neat-looking  green.  It  is  seven  miles  from 
Jewett  City,  f  < 

The  Quinebaug,  as  it  passes  by  this  township,  is  a  large 
streiim,  and  annually  overflows  its  banks,  and  fertilizes  the 
alluvial  soil  on  its  lx)rders,  that  comprise  an  extent  of  rich 
meadows  that  yield  prolific  crops,  and  are  easily  cultivated. 

Packersville,  with  its  three  cotton  factories,  is  on  the  op- 
posite of  the  Quinebaug,  in  the  limits  of  the  township  of 
Plainjield,  in  which  some  manufacturing  is  carried  on  in 
the  villages  of  Unionville  and  Ctnlreville  on  the  Moosup 
Riv^r,  a  stream  that  empties  into  the  Quinebaug'.  The 
'  Plainfitld  Academy  is  a  respectable  institution  that  is  well 

supported,  and  has  several  competent  teachers.  It  is  on  a 
hiil  with  an  extensive  prospect,  and  is  doubtless  airy  and  sa- 
lubrious. The  Congregational  Church  and  a  few  houses 
make  a  village.  The  hills  are  quite  elevated,  in  the  forri)  of 
ridges,  north  and  south.  The  plain  is  extensive — soil  a 
bright  loam,  adapted  to  grain,  and  when  first  settled  wat 
called  the  land  of  Egypt,  from  its  fertility  and  easy  cultiva- 
tion. A  large  body  of  Indians  formerly  inhabited  this  town^ 
that  were  christianized,  and  always  lived  in  amity  with  the 
whites  ;  there  are  four  places  of  worship,  two  for  Baptists, 
one  Congregational,  and  one  for  Friends. 

Brooklyn  is  on  the  west  side  of  the  Quinebauif.  The  vil- 
lage contains  60  houses,  a  Congregational,  one  Unitarian, 
and  one  Baptist  Church;  the  first-mentioned  divided  in  1817. 
the  Unitarians  retaining  the  old  church,  and  the  seceders 
building,  in  1820,  the  present  new  handsome  edifice.  Dr. 
Whitney  was  the  pastor  of  the  Congregational  Church  for 
63  years,  from  1754  to  1822.    The  court-house,  and  Ibrse 


Railroad  to  Worcester. 


^tituncliM,  and  the  bank,  are  arranged  on  and  around  the  pub- 
lic green.  The  Episcopal  Church  was  the  first,  and  long  the 
vnly  one  of  that  sect  in  this  county,  and  was  erected  by  Mr. 
<i.  Malbone  of  Rhode  Island,  who  married  a  southern  lady 
that  had  60  slaves,  from  whom  the  colored  people  in  these 
parts  are  descended.  One  cotton  factory  is  on  the  Quine- 
iiaug,  but  the  land  is  divided  into  hills  and  dales,  and  is 
adapted  to  grazing,  the  dairy  business,  and  to  stock  raising. 
There  are  five  stores  and  a  court-house  near  the  villago 
green,  and  the  former  residence  of  General  Putnam,  of 
wolf-den  and  revolutionary  memory,  was  a  few  paces  north 
of  the  bank,  and  opposite  to  the  old  Unitarian  Church;  the 
tieneral  was  born  at  Salem  in  1718. 

Gray  Mare  Hill  isonequarter  ofa  mile  north-wesiof  Brook- 
lyn, and  derives  its  name  from  an  old  mare  and  her  coll  hav- 
ing been  caught  among  the  ledges,  and  confined  until  the  colt 
had  eaten  off  tie  old  mare's  mane.  Tetruck  Hill,  in  the 
south  part  of  the  town,  has  a  cavo  that  is  known  as  the 
Lyori's  Deny  where  a  man  skulked  from  his  duty,  in  conceal* 
ing  himself  in  revolutionary  times,  and  hence  its  name  in 
honor  of  the  coward  is  here  to  he  perpetuated.  A  mineral 
spring,  in  the  north-east  part  of  th  iown,  is  a  place  of  re- 
sort in  the  warm  season.  Black  well's  Brook  is  one  of  the 
small  streams  in  the  town  ;  20  miles  from  Norwich,  40  fiom 
Hartford,  30  from  Providence. 

Killingly  is  on  the  east  oftheQuinebaug  opposite  Brook- 
lyn, and  is  the  greatest  cotton  manufacturing  town  in  the 
State.  On  While  Stone  Brook  are  the  factories  with  the 
spindles  uscil,  viz.  Young's  2,500,  Bartlett's  400,  Leffing- 
well's  3,000,  Alexander's  1,200,  Fray's  1,200,  Hutchins* 
1,500,  and  the  Valley  Mills  1,200  spindles.  On  the  Five 
Mile  River  is  Killmgly  Factory  1,628,  Ballous'  1,500, 
Amcsbury's  1,500,  Ruggles' 2,000  Day ville's  1,500,  Daniel- 
son's  2,800,  WiUiam8',^on  Quinebaug,  2,600— total,  24,428 
spindles^,  with  looms  in  proportion.  The  trade  heretofore 
has  been  mostly  with  Providence.  There  are  also  three 
woolen  mills,  one  furnace,  one  axe  factory. 

Pleasant  Valley,  Dayville,  and  Danielsonvilley  m?iy  h\\  be 
seen  from  the  topof  Chesnut  Hill,  near  the  Baptist  Church, 
and  make  a  showy  appearance.  The  last  one  is  of  the  most 
importance,  and  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Quinebaug  and 
Five  Mile  Rivers,  three  miles  east  of  Brooklyn,  25  north  of 
I^orwich  City,  43  east  of  Hartford,  37  south  of  Worcester. 


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Lake  Ma*hapaug. 


The  White  Stone  Brook  has  its  origin  in  the  Killingly  (n 
Mashentiick  Fond,  that  is  partly  in  Connecticut  and  ir» 
Rhode  Island,  and  by  damming  has  become  of  increaee<) 
size  and  importance.  The  Jissowaggo,  Quinebatigt  and  the 
Five  Mile,  that  unites  with  the  main  river  at  Danielsonville, 
are  all  important  streamo.  The  Quanduck  and  Kies  isnue 
from  the  Quinebaug  Pond,  a  handsome  sheet  of  water  sur- 
rounded by  forests.  ,f"cv  «iv?i,f; 

Lake  Mashapaug^  or  Alexander's  Lake,  it  a  favorite  place, 
and  much  admired  for  the  beauty  of  its  scenery.    About 
1720  one  Nell  Alexander  came  from  Scotland  to  Boston  with 
a  cargo  of  emigrants,  and  just  before  le  landed  found  a  gold 
ring  on  deck,  for  which  in  vam  he  tried  to  fmd  an  owner, 
and  pawned  it  for  light  goods  that  he  peddled  In  Boston  and 
Boxbury,  with  such  success  that  in  a  few  years  he  was  ena- 
bled to  purchase  a  farm  of  3,500  acres  in  Killingly.    The 
gold  ring  that  he  had  redeemed,  in  the  first  stage  of  hti» 
prosperhy,  was  bequeathed  as  a  sacred  talisman  to  his  only 
son  Nell,  and  by  him  to  his  only  son  Nell,,  who  is  now  living, 
though  very  old,  and  has  put  it  in  the  hands  of  his  grandson 
Nell,  and  so  it  is  destined  to  continue  from  Nell  to  Nell,  un- 
till  the  last  knell  of  the  race  is  tolled.    The  Indian  tradition 
relative  to  this  lake  and  its  origin  is,  that  during  a  pew- 
wow,  ages  ago,  that  lasted  four  days,  the  spot  was  a  sand^ 
hill  or  mountain  where  the  lake  now  is ;  and  that  during  the 
revelry,  while  the  red  men  were  capering,  the  hill  gave  way 
beneath  and  sunk  to  a  great  depth  ;  the  waters  rushed  up 
and  covered  all  except  one  old  squaw  that  occupied  one  of 
the  peaks,  that  is  now  Loon's  Island,  and  in  a  clear,  calm 
day,  when  the  unruffled  face  of  the  glassy  lake  is  favorable, 
the  huge  trunks  and  leafless  branches  of  gigantic  pines  may 
be  seen. 

The  hills  are  yet  covered  with  the  primeval  forest,  but  it 
is  fast  yielding  to  the  axe,  to  supply  the  factories  that  fill  the 
vales  with  industry  and  weahh.  Quarries  of  free-stone  are 
found  on  Break  Neck  Hill,  an  eminence  of  note,  with  lofty 
precipices  to  the  east,  and  gentle  slopes.  The  stone  is  in 
slabs  of  every  size,  even^  hard,  and  of  a  color  allied  to  white, 
and  being  in  a  slanting  position  are  easily  detached.  Other 
kinds  of  slate-rock  and  of  slabs  are  to  be  had,  and  by  the 
completion  of  the  Norwich  and  Worcester  rail-road,  can  be 
sent  to  tide  and  to  the  principal  cities.  *,  ,  .. 


Thompson^Montville'-Leicetter. 


£05 


-■■■  Mashentttck  Hill^  two  mileg  in  circuit,  with  its  steep  face 
at  the  south  of  Pleasant  Valley,  has  on  its  back  a  bed  of  por- 
celain clay  and  feldspar,  discovered  while  digging  a  well ; 
and  though  at  first  mixed  with  vegetable  matter,  yet  at  10 
feet  was  white  and  pure  as  lard,  free  from  grit,  the  sides  of 
the  well  being  layers  of  clay  and  feldspar,  the  latter  having 
a  brilliant  appearance  like  ice. 

Pomfretville,  a  little  village  on  the  Quinebaug,  has  an  ex- 
tensive  cotton  factory.  There  are  two  Congregationalftone 
Baptist,  and  one  Episcopal  Church ;  the  Friend's  Meeflig- 
kouse  is  on  a  cross-road  one  mile  off  the  central  part  <n||he 
town,  and  is  encircled  by  forest  trees,  and  has  a  secluded  aii^ 
novel  aspect.  The  most  populous  part  of  the  town  is  near  "^ 
the  Baptist  Church,  that  is  seven  miles  from  Bron*dyn,  40 
from  Hartford,  30  from  Providence,  27  from  Norwich,  and 
60  from  Boston.  Pomfret  Landing  is  three  miles  south-east 
of  the  CoQgregational  Church.  Putnam^s  Wolf-den  is  in 
Abington,  two  miles  south  west  of  the  Congregational 
Church. 

Thompson  is  in  the  north-east  corner  of  the  State  of  Con- 
necticut ;  the  village  of  30  dwellings,  four  stores  and  a  bank, 
and  a  Congregational  and  Baptist  Church,  is  situated  on  an 
eminence,  and  is  i4  miles  from  Brooklyn,  34  from  Norwich, 
47  from  Hartford,  27  from  Providence,  and  53  from  Boston. 
Until  about  the  year  1800,  a  large  part  of  the  land  was  owned 
by  a  Mr.  Thompson  of  England.  This  Is  a  rich  agricultural 
town,  and  has  six  cotton  and  two  woolen  factories. 

Montville^  on  French  River,  is  the  manufacturing  village. 
Fisherville,  one  mile  north,  is  on  the  same  ;  New  Boston,  in 
the  north-west,  is  a  village  built  on  both  sides  of  the  Quine- 
baug.  Thompson  was  the  favorite  residence  of  the  Nip- 
muck  Indians.  Chargoggaggoggmannhogaggag  Pond  is 
part  in  this,  and  partly  in  a  town  in  Massachusetts  ;  is  60 
miles  in  circumference  if  followed  in  all  its  windings ;  is 
studded  with  beautiful  islands,  and  was  the  paradise  of  the 
tribe.  There  fish  and  game  were  in  abundance,  and  also  the 
enchanted  isles  and  elysian  fields,  the  abode  of  departed 
souls  and  the  residence  of  the  great  spirit. 

Oxford,  the  next  town  in  Massachusetts,  was  settled  by 
French  Protestants  about  1686;  French  River  passes  through 
the  town,  and  gives  a  fine  water  power  to  many  manufacto- 
ries.   The  Oxford  Bank  has  a  capital  of  $100,000. 

Leicester  is  on  the  height  of  ground  between  Boston  and 

43 


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W^reeMter, 


the  Connecticut  River,  six  miles  weit  of  Worcester,  42  from 
Morlhampton,  45  north-west  of  Providence  ^  it  is  well  water- 
ed by  French  River  and  branches  of  the  Connecticut  and 
Blackstone,  that  rise  here  and  give  mill  sites  for  large  fac- 
tories— three  woollen  and  one  for  cards.shuttles,  and  bobbini. 
Amount  of  foods  sold  per  year,  $600,000.  The  academy 
here  is  highly  respectable,  with  large  funds,  handsome, 
commodious  buildings,  and  has  100  pupils.  A  bank  capital 
of  $100,000 ;  a  Jew's  Synagogue  was  established  here  in 
178M4  ^^^  extinct. 

Wffcester  is  (he  'Mieart  of  the  commonwealth,''  has  a 
|M^ulation  of  7,500;  is  at  the  head  of  the  Blackstone  Canal, 
that  leads  to  Providence,  was  finished  and  opened  in  1838, 
and  cost  jSCTSOiOOO,— 36  feet  wide  at  top,  18  feet  at  bottom. 
The  town  is  in  a  valley,  is  well  built  and  shaded,  and  is  eulo- 
gised for  itB  neatness  and  beauty.  There  are  many  woollen 
and  cotton  factories,  machine  shops,  paper  mills,  a  wire  and 
screw  factory,  [carriage  making,  &ic.  and  is  the  centre  of  a 
large  inland  trade  ;  its  inhabitants  are  wealthy.  The  State 
lAinalic  Hospital  is  a  handsome  building  and  an  honor  to 
the  State ;  here  those  furiously  mad,  and  criminalu  laboring 
under  insanity,  are  received,  well  and  kindly  treated,  and 
more  than  half  of  them  recover, — 1 18  patients  on  an  average. 
Worcester  County  is  the  largest  in  the  State;  it  comprises 
100,000  inhabitants. 

The  American  Antiquarian  Society,  founded  herebyTsaiah 
Thomas,  a  bookseller,  in  1812,  and  a  hall  created  in  1820  by 
his  munificence,  has  a  library  of  12,000  volumes  relating  to 
American  literature  and  hitftory,  that  all  strange  '  of  intelli- 
gence should  visit  and  examine.  There  is/a  lyceum,  seven 
churches,  five  news  offices,  four  banks,  capital  $900,000 ; 
two  Insurance  Companies.  .  40  miles  west  of  Boston,  66 
east  of  Northampton,  38  south-west  of  Lowell,  41  north- 
west of  Providence,  58  miles  north  of  Norwich,  71  from 
Long  Island  Sound. 

The  Western  Rail-road  exteads  hence  to  Springfield, 
thence  to  West  Stockbridge,  and  to  Hudson,  (see  page  371 
10  274;)  $2,000,000  subscribed  by  individuals,  $1,500,000 
by  the  8)tate. 


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